Professional Precision Adjust Maintenance Guide
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- Опубликовано: 5 дек 2023
- Precision Adjust Maintenance Tips
🔍 1. Machine Cleanliness:
Use a stiff-bristled brush (automotive detailing or paint brush).
Regularly disassemble the tower for debris removal.
Keep it pristine for optimal performance.
🛠️ 2. Abrasive Care:
Diamond Stones: Dry usage, brush off with a soft-bristled brush.
Ceramic Rod: Clean with a pencil eraser or warm, soapy water.
Leather Strop: Maintain with a half Micron compound, rehydrate with petroleum jelly if needed.
🔧 3. Accessory TLC:
Small Knife Table: Regularly brush off debris from the magnetic face.
Digital Angle Indicator: Keep it clean with a brush; easily replace the battery with a 3V lithium coin battery.
🌟 Pro Tips:
Dry system-avoid liquids during cleaning.
Every Work Sharp sharpener comes with a three-year warranty and top-notch customer service.
Need replacement parts? Visit our website www.worksharptools.com
Thanks for tuning in, and remember: dry brush, dry rag, and keep those tools razor-sharp! Have questions or need further assistance? Drop a comment or reach out to info@worksharptools.com
Happy sharpening! 🛠️✨ #WorkshopWisdom #ToolMaintenance #ProfessionalPrecisionAdjust
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Хобби
A touch of class would be to offer a bench cover in black with yellow gold trim and the work sharp logo.
Step it up a notch. RCBS and others did this with their loading presses. A storage case would be nice to.
Offer them as an aftermarket accessory package.
+1 on the storage case.... spending $250 on a unit and storing it in a cardboard box doesn't make much sense.
We appreciate the feedback and rest assured we are listening and working on it! Stay tuned.
Agreed! A cover would be a great touch.
I'd really like a case too be able to buy. My cardboard box is hard to transport to my cabin to sharpen my family's knives because it gets crushed and has gotten wet. If you can make it affordable that eould be nice
I love my worksharp pro, use it all the time on dozens of knives. Any chance you guys will make some higher grit stones for it? 1200, 1500, 2000?
My system has developed a “rock” in the arm when applying light pressure. Between allowing the arm to rest on the blade with its own pressure and using light pressure to sharpen, the stone holder rocks forward maybe 1/2-1 degree. Kind of annoying, especially when trying to remove a burr with light pressure.
Would you be selling a cleaning kit
Been using diamond stones for decades. I've always used lubrication, lapping fluid, Windex, or plain water. Seems weird to me not to. What is the reason you guys recommend dry sharpening with your stones?
Fluid helps remove the swarf (waste) and keep the stone from clogging. Is this not the case with your stones?
I started using water on mine and it works much better
@@TJBoogie Thanks, I plan on using it on mine as well. I'm not sure why they recommend not to?
I use a small amount of dawn soap mixed in a large spray bottle. Works great.
I haven’t practiced too much yet on this but haven’t found a burr or gotten a knife sharp yet. But I’ve only tried 2-3 times so far. I’m sure it’s just the learning curve. Got it a couple weeks ago. I’ve sharpened thousands of knives and have stones and majority of all your items. I’m assuming it’s having to create a new edge? It’s so different than stones, plates or belts…. I can’t wait to get it dialed in though.
For your first time sharpening a knife you will likely be creating a new edge. You can also work to match the existing angle if you choose. My personal preference is to set the angle I want (one that I plan to maintain), and reprofile to that angle. It may take a bit of work to raise a burr that first time depending on the steel and how dull the knife was or how much you are reprofiling. Lighter jobs may take 15-25 passes on coarse grit, heavier jobs could be up to 40 passes per side. Sharpen one side until you reach a burr, then maintain the same number of passes on the opposing side to keep the bevels symmetrical.
For me its best to do up and down scrubbing with the 220 grit to reprofile the angle cause it will take forever if you are wanting to take a factory 20 degree knife down to 12-16 degrees and then I just use it cause its sharp enough but then the next time I will do only upward passes which does seem to make it sharper than scrubbing back and forth. It takes me about an hour for a knife I haven't sharpened but once I know the angle the sharpening after doesn't take long at all. I can use the same boning knife for a while just using the ceramic and strop and the 800 grit sometimes if it seems a little more dull and that only takes like 5-10 minutes to get it back to crazy sharp for meat cutting. Taking your time and not using a lot of pressure is the main thing that took me a while to get the hang of. Every time I have tried to match the angle it just doesn't work well you will just need to scrub enough until you have a good burr so you know the edge has been ground back enough. It is a lot easier sharpening pocket knives with this but compared to a belt sander my butcher knives are so much sharper so its worth the time it takes to sharpen for the sake of my hand not hurting after work. You can just do upward passes but with my experience if you are doing a knife 5" or longer it will take way too long
hey guys, i love my pa system, but i seem to only be able to get a burr on the heel of the blade about an inch long, no matter how long i spend on the knife. Any advise?
Good question, lets get you in touch with our Customer Service team. There a lots of factors at play . (blade shape, size, steel, etc) Our CS team can account for all of that and help find a solution. Start by sending an email to info@worksharptools.com and they will get you dialed in.
Is there an explanation why the knob on the small knife table is so difficult to turn on my unit?
If it seems off you should contact our customer service team. You can reach them at info@worksharptools.com and someone will get back to you right away to see what the issue might be.
I have the exact same issue. Also no leather strop or compound material?
@@vwgtiron If yours didn't come with a leather strop then get in touch with customer service. info@worksharptools.com they will get you taken care of. The strop comes loaded with green compound.
Unit just arrived and I'm happily using it but the CLAMP allows the knife to pitch up and down., no matter how hard I clamp it, the blade tilts when applying the abrassive to blade and sharpening... :( the flex is about 2 degrees...(Pitchi). if I use the abrasive in a PULLING method the blade pitches down, and I use a PUSHING method the blade pushes up... Any advice?
Are you using the support piece under the clamp?
@@EZ_Case yup the support holds it up but not enough to prevent 2 degree tilt man so hard to explain in text, but I was informed that I was using too much pressure and once I backed off on pressure it worked like a charm… thx for reply
@@aylonewolf69I tried to post a link to a RUclips video that covers this but my link was deleted. If you wrap a zip tie around the circumference of the clamp fitting it will eliminate the flex. It works great.
Would you be selling a cleaning kit
Good idea, it's something we are looking into. Don't wait on us though. A simple brush and rag can get the job done. We won't sell one unless we think we can bring you guys more value by making a Work Sharp specific kit.