3 Major Issues/Have They Been Fixed? Work Sharp Professional Precision Adjust
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- #edc #sharpening #knife
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Good to see the upgrade from worksharp I had their older system like this and I hated it ended up giving it away with literally all the extras and stones for it and bought the KME system which was far superior makes beautiful mirror polished razor sharp edges.I can’t see myself ever buying another system.
I feel you, it's very wobbly in the clamp area.
Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night ruclips.net/user/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.
For me learning freehand sharpening with stones and rods was it the right decision, with practice you can achieve amazing consistency. At the beginning I practiced with cheap knives and now I sharpening all my knives free hand (up to 1500 Euro), even reprofiling an edge. The freehand sharpening somehow has a meditative character.
Love work sharp products. Have the older version to this and also just picked up the field sharpener. I can tell you from past experiences that Work Sharp has hands down the absolute best customer service there is.
This system has problems. I was 36 in line to get the first limited edition and was excited to try it. They fixed a lot of issues but new ones have popped up. The bigger stones create one , you'll have trouble getting to the back of the edge near the plunge grind. The angle changes when you flip sides , anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 of a degree. It's enough to see a difference in width of the edge bevel, one looks thicker than the other. Also there is flex in the piece that the blade clamp fits into , as well as the shaft opposite of the threaded height adjuster. Both of these problems can be fixed with a zip tie. All in all I wished I would have bought a ts prof or a hapstone system instead. Stones wear out but I rather have a system without stones than one with that has all these problems. As with anything , you get what you pay for.
Ah , i saw another channel talking about the flex and fixing it with zip ties.
One thing to keep in mind with this system the longer the blade, the more chance you will see in the angle of the edge. On my Junglas the center of the blade is at 25 degrees and the tip is 19 degrees. The longer the sweep of the abrasive the more shallow the edge will become. That said the blades I’ve sharpened so far are hair popping, scary sharp and I’m really happy with it.
Thank you for sharing that aspect!! 👍
This may help
ruclips.net/video/UjoTLYsKG9k/видео.html
i’ve sharpened many knives by hand & by use of a system & never had an issue with thumbs studs & that’s because most, if not all regular knives use an angle of 20-30° & anything under 20° is typically a kitchen knife, filet knife or straight razor. you’re asking for edge troubles if you sharpen a daily carry/work knife any shallower than 20° & therefore you will not have to worry about hitting thumb studs 👌🏼
Love big blades and I can not lie when an itty-bitty blade walk by...
Hahaha 😝 🤣
I like big pommels and I cannot lie!!!
@@Wildwestwranglerto end him rightly? Lol
As for the thumb stud… 15-17 degrees is usually for kitchen knives. I would just raise the angle to say, 20 degrees, for a pocket knife. It’ll be plenty sharp
I like 17 on my pocket knives usually
@@gideonstactical Especially with steels like 14c28n that still have a lot of edge stability at those acute angles.
As you stated, all in all. This is a very good system, and that stated that it's selling for $250.00! People better get on it, and get one. Nice video
Thank you for answering the big knife question.
Great review! I like the combination of technology and stone grinding...that digital angle indicator is a neat addition to this setup.
It helps alot 👍
I'm terrible at sharpening. I'm honestly going to look into this.
Nice improvement's.
I use the worksharp elite grinding solution for long blades. I also bought some leather stropping belts which work better than cloth stropping belts. I use the Precision Adjust pro for smaller blades, I sold the regular precision adjust that I previously owned. I like the Precision adjust pro.
excellent video! I am super excited for this new system. How does the wider stones handle on recurved blades such as the cold steel raja II?? Sharpening a recurve like that gives me pause when wishing to purchase one (raja II)
Working around thumbstuds is why i like my spyderco's, leatherman's and any other's that don't have thumbstuds.
Love spyderco, hate thumb studs!! 😁
Have you compared this to the belt based work sharp systems? Thank you!
Great now I need to buy a 15 degree thumb stud 😉 great bit of kit, i need to invest 👍
Is there a stone available that is rougher than the 220? If you want to reprofile or get rid of a nick it takes a long time with a 220. Thanks
is the work sharp guided sharpening system better for you than the (professional or old)precision adjust?
and could the stones of the professional precision adjust fit in the guided sharpening system?
Well, this was a nice review. It would be excellent if you had a blade to sharpen, and give the overall impression and conclusion of the final edge. This is because it is not a cheap system, and it's an investment. But overall for sure it looks much better than the previous , with upgrades that makes a huge difference
Do you know if the small blade clamp can be used for scissors? Or do they need a scissor attachment?
For the thumb stud interface, could you not simply place the blade in the holder closer to the tip and you'd have a sharper angle to get to the end of the blade, essentially going around or bypassing the stud?
I'm sure it's a great system but it's also £317 instead of £70 and absolutely not worth the ridiculous price increase.
I have the original precision adjust and while it's a good system, it has several flaws.
* For one there is a little play between where the vice connects and where the blade is held. This makes it frustrating to have a consistent bevel.
* Another is when sharpening smaller blades, you end up hitting the edge of the vice and grinding it down.
* The build quality also leaves a little to be desired; the threaded shaft that the arm mount rides on will move while sharpening. If you're not focused, it will change the bevel on you.
* The tri-stone sharpener also has plastic that sticks out both sides of the stone. That makes it to where you can't sharpen the choil end of some blades.
Now I'm not saying that I don't like the precision adjust, it's just very frustrating some times. It works fine on large flippers, but doesn't work great on smaller slip joints or larger fixed blades. Glad to see that many of these problems are being fixed, even though I probably won't get one.
Now that it has an electronic angle finder, can you check to see if the angle you set the device to actually stays consistent over the entire length of the blade as the stone sweeps end to end? Check the angle after setting it with the angle finder when the stone would be in the middle of the blade and then check what the angle finder reads at the two ends of the blade and see if the angles are the same as what you set the angle at to begin with. Does the angle change with the swing of the arm over the length of the blade?
What will change the angle slightly is the distance from the apex, back to an imaginary line that runs parallel to your blade from where it's clamped on the spine. No way to outsmart geometry. So if you're sharpening a wharncliff with a perfectly straight edge, your angle will be uniform down it's length. With any other blade with an edge with any curve, it will change by a very small amount on the curved surfaces. I wouldn't expect it to change noticeably. The angle displayed on these type systems where you make the coarse adjustment is just an approximation because the exact angle will vary depending on the distance from the apex to that imaginary clamp line. That's why it's important to use an angle box with these type of rod based systems.
@@hificat101 Angle difference is 3° per side for a 10" blade
Regarding thumbstuds: couldnt you just offset the blade to aproach that part of blade from an angle? Seems that you did that for the tip of the big blade at the beggining.
I tried a few clamping positions without success. That’s just my experience though.
If you clamp the blade further away from the thumb stud you will miss the thumb stud. This works on my KME and my wicked edge.
It’s almost like they listened to their customer base. I watched many videos on the older model sharpener and everything you addressed was a common critique of the older version.
G'day Aaron, if I were to ever go for one of these types of systems, this would be the one and @ around 200 - 250 USD, I'd say that's fair enough. However, call me old fashioned, but they take all the skill/fun out of it. Besides, if you already have the correct edge, generally all you need is a tune up after use, maybe just a very fine grit, ceramic rod and/or a simple stropping, ..... surely one doesn't need a complex contraption for that. Certainly aint gonna be doing true convex either, in the clamp anyway, so you're back to free hand for that regardless.
And on the other side of the equation, a big ding or major re-profiling, you're gonna be there a long while without the help of a powered device.
I do agree the upgraded model is far more solid and compelling than the previous version, or indeed the direct competition; even so, I'd be bolting it to the bench ..... with wingnuts for an easy dismount.
Just my 2 bob's worth mate, each to the their own, a lotta ways to skin the same cat. Cheers Duke.
P.S. Btw; a 100% guaranteed solution for the thumb stud issue ............ stop with designs that have them in the cutting/sharpening path; ....... even the good ol' RAT-1 was a wake up to that.
The problem I keep seeing is the height from the blade apex to the table isn’t the same on both sides. Start with a blade mounted in your sharpener. Measure the distance from the table (that the PA PRO is sitting on) to the apex of the blade. Now flip the blade over. The distance is different. Which means the angle is different. Has anyone else experienced this?
Can someone tell me you sharpen convex and scandi grinds on this system? Many thanks... Puccini (UK)
Maybe centering the large blade a little better would help...just saying
Will this unit sharpen small scissors?
Looks like a great system. I like that extra reach. I wonder how much the bevel angle is changing from the center of the blade to the tip/heel on a 12” blade? The KME will handle my 8” blades but I get a 2-3° variable angle when I sharpen something that large.
Nice system but all of these devices just seem too fiddly. If, however, you screw up the profile, I can see where something like this would be great to get the geometry back where it belongs.I wouldn't mind owning one for this purpose. I love my Shapton ceramic stones though. I have the Shapton Wire Puller, 320, 1000, 5000, 8000, 12,000, but I find myself mostly using the 1000, 5,000 and 8000, which can be snagged for $150. I finsih by strapping it on a free phonebook. The Shaptons are aggresive, extremely fast, with little to no wear. Splash and go and in about 15 min you have a polished hair splitting edge. All of my axes and hatchets as well are honed to a polished razor edge with these stones. A new knife with a lousy grind, uneven geometry, and edge can take up to an hour.
The thumb stud protrudes beyond a 15 degree angle from the edge of the blade, so it’s not really a limitation of the sharpening system, it’s more of a limitation of that particular knife. Hard to see how anyone can develop the system to sharpen round corners. 😂
What about a case for this? Is there a good one for it that easily holds everything.
Not sure on that.
In my opinion, if you are pressing so hard on the stone that it’s causing the device to flex you’re pushing too hard
I sure wish they made one of these for Japanese kitchen knives. They have a 8-12 angle and require a set of higher grit stones such as 1000 to 6000. Seems there are more people with knives in kitchens who need an easy way to sharpen than there are utility type guys.kind of surprising to see them ignoring this entire market. The reason I have not bought one of these, is because it can't handle my Japanese Kitchen Knives.
Hey great video,if you need a new home for work sharp elite now you have this new model ,send it on to me lol
Lol 2 things...... lol 1 I really need a gideons tactical patch!!!!and second.....I need to know who makes that little wharnie purple fixed blade i saw in your post!!!!
i think all guided systems have the thumb stud system. edge pro kme wicked edge vipersharp tsprof hapstone i am pretty sure all have the same issue
Yes as I said, not a work Sharp specific problem.
6:24 luckily i dont like Blades with thumb studs 😅
I think they need a more abrasive & a finer diamond stone along with a bit lower angle. Would like to see down to 100 grit for re-profiling & up to 1500 grit for finer polish. Also angle goes down to at least 10 degrees bevel just for the santoku knives because my wustoff is 10 degrees bevel edge. Plus I have many filet knives for fileting fish which I also need below 15 degrees. Any suggestions?
I had a similar thought. The marketing literature for the product says the sharpener goes to a 15 degree angle but on the dial of the product it goes to 10 degrees from what I've gathered. Does that mean it can sharpen say, at 12 degrees. I have knives with a factory edge of 13.5 degrees and some knives have a factory edge of 8-12 degrees these days because the newer steels can take that edge.
I don't want to regrind my knives to suit the angles my sharpener can handle I want to maintain the factory edge or perhaps improve it. Most high end chefs knives or even mid tier brands are crazy sharp from new.
@@AWidgetIHaveNot My Wustoff Kitchen knives are factory angle 14 degrees except the Santoku that is at 10 degrees. Plus like I said I have lots of Filet knives & they need to be around 10 Degrees
Haven't seen one review mention the pivot system
Glad I could help!!
Great review! Answered every question I had about this new system. Seems weird to still have questions about the system given the fact that I would get 10 emails a week from these guys.
We're getting more stock!
We just ran out of stock!
More stock on the way!
Hey we got more stock!
Glad to help, Ya Gpknives has them in stock for $250 link in the bio if you are ready to pull the trigger.
Thank you , I'd like to link your video in my upcoming review
Go for it
@@gideonstactical it wouldn't let me tag you bro but I mentioned that you had great videos on the systems 😎🤘
Would you choose this over a KME
Not sure but will be getting a KME soon to compare
@@gideonstactical I have a KME and really like it but it has its limitations like small blades at 17 degrees and it want go past 30 degrees to sharpen Emerson but other that that I love it
Kme won't sharpen small knives even with the pen knife jaws. And the clamp is weak in my opinion.
why would you not clamp your long blade in the center and be able to sharpen even longer blades?
Handle weight needs to be off set some
2:30 that sounds like a pretty bad idea, you're gonna get a big angle difference between the middle of the edge and its extremities, this system isn't the best for large blades...
My big problem with this system is the proprietary stones, what happens when you need new stones ? Can't find them anywhere
They carry replacement stones.
@@gideonstactical But where ? I find them only for the other system
I can’t sharpen mû SAK with the original one.
Why would anyone sharpen a pocket knife to below 17 degrees??? That’s even shallow for a chef’s knife…😳
How can I buy this sharpener?
Links in the video description
His thumb stud issue is nothing more than the classic solution in search of a problem. Unless you are one of those knife collectors who’s blades sit on a fancy shelf to show people how much money you’ve wasted on blades you neither use or need and only pull off the shelf to show common folk how “razor sharp” your edge is there is NO circumstance in which you would put an edge below 17 degrees on any knife you are actually going to use in any real life scenario outside of your kitchen! Now I could be wrong but I’m not aware of any set of kitchen knives that are folders requiring a thumb stud lol. I hate saying this for fear of sounding arrogant, a trait in many people I throughly despise so I’ll just say I wouldn’t consider myself a knife novice in any way shape or form. I own many blades that run the gamut from large survival/bush knives to small edc knives and I enjoy and look forward to putting every blade I own to the test in the real world. I wouldn’t treat my sebenza with anymore grace than I would a Swiss Army knife just because of the price tag that was attached to it! A knife is a tool and if a hefty price tag would make you hesitant to use your tool then in my opinion there is absolutely no reason to have it in the first place. I’m not trying to rag on the guy but when I hear someone say “you know I like big knives” then pull out a torm vector without a single snail trail or blemish throughout the entire finish I know I am listening to a collector and not a user of knives. Its not a bad review and his concerns were valid in comparing the previous generation to the newest work sharp model however my suspicions were confirmed when the thumb stud issue which is not actually an issue due to the incoherence of sharping any blade other than a kitchen knife at any degree at or below 17….to each there own and by all means collect away if that’s your thing but for those who might not be as familiar with proper knife sharpener a bit are looking to learn or dive into a knife sharpening system I simply wanted to point out this is an excellent system of which I’ve tried many throughout the years and the issue he raises in this review is actual not a issue in the least bit so do not let it dissuade you from purchasing what is a very very nice, robust, and highly functional system capable of sharpening any blade you throw at it. Whether a novice or a seasoned enthusiast this foolproof sharpening system is nothing short of exceptional and worth every cent….if you are looking for a one time purchase for a lifetime of sharpening capabilities then don’t hesitate to pull the trigger on this product.
A ruixin pro 009 $37 with a $20 upgrade angle adjustments is still better... 😂 Spend $25 more on some better Stone your looking at $100 with strop. 😅
Amazon reviews disagrees mr. cheat_lie_steal
👍 Great review of what appears to be a very useful tool. Thank you for sharing the capabilities and your thoughts.
Makes one wonder how on God’s green Earth the 18th Century Long Hunters and 19th Century Mountain Men ever got their blades sharp enough to be of use.
With the thumb stud, just do the whole knife up to the stud at 12, or 15 degrees or what ever. Then change it up to 17 degrees or whatever angle clears the stud and do the tiny but of blade under the stud at that angle and just blend it in to the 15 degree with a half inch overlap of the 2 angles.
You sharpen lawnmower blades with a grinder not a diamond stone lol good way too waist your diamonds lmao
Interesting but for this price you get a better solution like a Tormek T4
6:24 isn’t this just a matter of shallow thinking…. Just start your sweep with the stone extended past the stud and work the opposite direction.
Plus, your technique sucks… you’re not using the entire length of the stone on your sweeps and will shorten their life.
Is WorkSharp paying you?
The clamp on this system is horrendous on thin blades 2mm and under along with being 6 ounces and heavier. Think kitchen knife. There is so much flex in the clamping jaws. The rubber jaws don’t help.
It does fine on pocket knives.
I’ve convinced you all of you guys doing reviews on this system must be getting paid or etc….because NOBODY is pointing out the mediocre clamp.
Nope, they didn’t pay me a dime. If you watch my review on the previous gene that was also sent to me, I was not impressed and did not give it high marks in the review. My clamp as worked well even on my very large blades as you saw in the video. If you are not happy with the design, reach out to worksharp ask to return it. They are very good with costumer service.
@@gideonstactical The clamp system doesn’t struggle with thicker blades, it’s with thin blades that have a spline of 2mm and under.
I have two of these systems and both clamps have the same issue. It’s a design flaw/oversight by WS.
Even on one of the WS videos of the guy demonstrating sharpening a larger knife, the blade is flexing in the clamp. 😑
ruclips.net/video/oy_wsKUB1jk/видео.html
The angle is not fixed PERIOD
The sharpening angle is bigger at the middle of the blade and smaller at the extremities of the blade. 🤥
>small blades like the Leatherman Squirt
Rest In Peace
Juice S2... ...rip
I’m sorry but for $300 this thing isn’t worth it at all
$250 but why would you say that?
FIRST! 😅
Looks cheap and tacky. Must be made in china.
I’ve gone for a KMFS Vantaedge which looks superior in every way!
Theres no sharpener that wont hit the thumb stud stop crying
I got mine last week works great. I had been using a lansky system. I didn’t know how really bad it was until I started using this awesome system. I had a problem with my clamp being frozen shut called Worksharp and Taylor from work sharp replaced it quickly awesome customer service.
Thanks for reviewing this. I have the earlier iteration of this sharpening system and have been less than impressed with it for the reasons you mentioned. I think I will wait and see if this one comes down in price before I buy it though.😅
Same here , I got the older one and it’s ok for standard size folders and smaller fixed blades, I had trouble keeping the same sharpening angle towards the tip on 6” and longer kitchen knives .
What really pissed me off was the bigger system coming out a few months after I had bought the older system.
The new system is nice but honestly I think it’s a bit pricey for what it can and CANNOT DO.