This is an excellent video and I wish I had it like 5 years ago when I did my first custom paint job. A couple small recommendations I have is to remember: you don't HAVE to use masking tape! You can also use blue tack/poster putty to cover up irregularly shaped and awkward areas (especially useful for organic shapes). There is also liquid masking tape that you can apply with a brush. This can be useful for really tiny areas! You can also use a small piece of cardstock or straight piece of plastic (like a credit card). You just hold it up against the area that you're spraying and that gives you a clean line. Finally, you can always hand paint details. If I have a tiny part that would be miserable to mask, I will break out my paint brushes and hand paint them. I've totally done that to fix up edges if I got some overspray too. And if you're reading this and ever get bummed out because the paint job doesn't look that great after you take off the making tape, just remember that panel lining fixes most issues! The separation between colors will very rarely look clean until you panel line!
I use a easy cutting mat with the Lazer etched grooves to do all my masking. It makes the process 10x faster and 10x easier. The Lazer etched grooves guide the razor blade to make perfect lines that are from .01mm thick, up to 2mm thick.
The tip about sharp blades to cut the masking tip is 100% right! That's why i bought a set of small surgical scalpels for farm animals, that thing is so sharp
@@PlamoTherapist It's pretty great! The tip of the blades is much thinner than your usual hobby knives so it could be very precise in cutting the corners or leftover parts of the tape. But, just be very careful in handling it, it's very easy to cut yourself since it's super sharp :(
One method to covering up certain spots is to use sticky tack (the blue stuff used to put up posters on walls). Best to only use it for deep spot like the interior of thrusters or vent holes.
Thanks for the explanation. I didn't realize I also rely on both techniques (cutout&jigsaw). For me, masking is stressful though, I need to pick a right pace to prevent burnout.
Excellent tutorial! Very detailed and precise. I liked your summery too and thanks to your video I discovered that precut masking for resin kits exist! I personally would add that the masking tape quality matters when it comes to adherence to the piece, its removal and of course the accidental peeling of the paint job. Investing in good quality tape is important, in my experience. Ciao!
Once I gave masking a shot, it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be, but it sure was tedious! I reccommend having some long podcasts or something to play in the background lol
Hey Jamil, great question! If you don't want to use a hobby knife. You can use a toothpick or meat skewer. I prefer the skewer because the extra length gives me better control, but sometimes you just gotta use what you got. Hope this answers your question and best of luck! 😁
No worries! Just like building gunpla, you'll get better with time and practice. 😁 Start easy, make small wins for yourself and before you know it, you won't even need pre-cut masks! 😁
Hey! Great question! You can still use these techniques to cover up ares for hand painting, however it might be a bit overkill for that. 😆 Personally I haven't masked for hand-painting but maybe I'm missing something. If you want to send me more specifics, maybe we figure out a solution together. 😁
Hey there! Great question! Personally I wait about 24 hours on most projects, but for quicker projects, I have waited as little as 4 hours. My recommendation is the longer, the better, but as little as 4 hours has worked, but I wouldn't recommend it. I hope this answers your question. Thank you so much for watching and commenting!
how do i cut masking tape without damaging the primer/undercoat i already covered the piece with? whenever i try to cut masking tape on the model, i end up with little scratches where i cut the tape.
Those are the best ones to try! They have great detail and are relatively cheap compared to so many others. If you're still super worried, look into EG or SD kits 😁
Get your pre-cut masks here! gundamplacestore.com/collections/resin-conversion-kits/products/cantonese-c-studio-precut-masking-tape-multiples-options-available
Dude every video you do is so informative and awesome to watch I’m not sure I’ll ever use masking but if I ever consider it one day I’ll come back to this video 😉. Kind Regards AuraKnight P.S How are you doing by the way?
Darn. I can't believe I missed that. 😆 What I like to do is pull the knife in the panel lines to the corner, then on the last pull, bring my knife up so that it's on its tip and use that to turn it around the corner, then connect the to sides. You can do this both ways once or twice and that should get you the corner you need. 😁 Hope that helps and best of luck!
Another option is to start in the corner and pull out and away from there. This way you start by pushing the knife into the corner and it helps get that corner truly in there and separated. Give both of these a shot and see which one works best for you!
@@PlamoTherapist cool, thx man. Imma try that next time I mask. Currently in process doing the proof snap build as we speak before painting. Keep up the good tips my dude 🤙
Hey, great question! And the answer is that it depends. If you're hand brushing, probably not. If you're just blocking in single colors with an airbrush or rattle can, probably not. If you want two distinct colors on one piece with clean separation, then absolutely. I haven't found a way to get clean lines between colors without masking when using an airbrush or rattle can, but if you figure that out, then I gotta learn your secrets. 🤣🤣🤣 Jokes aside, I hope this answers your question and I wish you the best of luck whether you choose to mask or not. 😁
This is an excellent video and I wish I had it like 5 years ago when I did my first custom paint job.
A couple small recommendations I have is to remember: you don't HAVE to use masking tape! You can also use blue tack/poster putty to cover up irregularly shaped and awkward areas (especially useful for organic shapes). There is also liquid masking tape that you can apply with a brush. This can be useful for really tiny areas! You can also use a small piece of cardstock or straight piece of plastic (like a credit card). You just hold it up against the area that you're spraying and that gives you a clean line.
Finally, you can always hand paint details. If I have a tiny part that would be miserable to mask, I will break out my paint brushes and hand paint them. I've totally done that to fix up edges if I got some overspray too.
And if you're reading this and ever get bummed out because the paint job doesn't look that great after you take off the making tape, just remember that panel lining fixes most issues! The separation between colors will very rarely look clean until you panel line!
I use a easy cutting mat with the Lazer etched grooves to do all my masking. It makes the process 10x faster and 10x easier. The Lazer etched grooves guide the razor blade to make perfect lines that are from .01mm thick, up to 2mm thick.
THAT'S AMAZING! 😲😲😲 I didn't even know something like that existed. Guess it's time to do some shopping! 😆
The tip about sharp blades to cut the masking tip is 100% right! That's why i bought a set of small surgical scalpels for farm animals, that thing is so sharp
I've been meaning to get a scalpel to test out the difference. How do you like it? Thank you so much for watching and commenting. 😁
@@PlamoTherapist It's pretty great! The tip of the blades is much thinner than your usual hobby knives so it could be very precise in cutting the corners or leftover parts of the tape. But, just be very careful in handling it, it's very easy to cut yourself since it's super sharp :(
I really gotta try this out now. Thank you so much for sharing! 😁😁😁
another one of those vids that I didnt thought I needed till I watch. Thanks for this!
Haha. Thank you so much! Just trying to share my knowledge. It's not the only way, but it works for me. 😁
Thank you for making more tutorial videos!
Those masking resin sets seem lik a god send!
Absolute GAME CHANGER! 🤯🤣
One method to covering up certain spots is to use sticky tack (the blue stuff used to put up posters on walls). Best to only use it for deep spot like the interior of thrusters or vent holes.
I usually stick the thrusters onto the blue tack for ease of painting too. 😆
Amazing as always!!!
Thanks dude! 😁😁😁
Thanks for the explanation. I didn't realize I also rely on both techniques (cutout&jigsaw).
For me, masking is stressful though, I need to pick a right pace to prevent burnout.
Completely understandable. Masks can take longer than the kit itself, so it's always good to take a break
😁
Right on bro. On point!
Thank you, resin sensei. 😆😆😆
Excellent tutorial! Very detailed and precise. I liked your summery too and thanks to your video I discovered that precut masking for resin kits exist! I personally would add that the masking tape quality matters when it comes to adherence to the piece, its removal and of course the accidental peeling of the paint job. Investing in good quality tape is important, in my experience. Ciao!
Absolutely! Blue tape is good for big areas, but not for the tight areas like the Tamiya is able to do!
Once I gave masking a shot, it wasn't as difficult as I thought it would be, but it sure was tedious! I reccommend having some long podcasts or something to play in the background lol
Oh absolutely. 🤣 I was watching Asmondgold videos in the background. 🤣
what tools can best used to remove the tape when done beside a hobby knife
Hey Jamil, great question! If you don't want to use a hobby knife. You can use a toothpick or meat skewer. I prefer the skewer because the extra length gives me better control, but sometimes you just gotta use what you got.
Hope this answers your question and best of luck! 😁
The man promised and he delivered. Thanks.
Haha. Thank YOU for the suggestion! 😁😁😁
I always sucked at masking , but this video really helps
No worries! Just like building gunpla, you'll get better with time and practice. 😁 Start easy, make small wins for yourself and before you know it, you won't even need pre-cut masks! 😁
Thanks man ! Great video
Thank you so much for watching and commenting! 😁
Really good video dude! +1
Thank you so much! 😁
Hello, is there a number of layers of masking tape that is required for priming and painting?
Is there any tips for masking if we’re gonna hand paint an area?
Hey! Great question! You can still use these techniques to cover up ares for hand painting, however it might be a bit overkill for that. 😆
Personally I haven't masked for hand-painting but maybe I'm missing something. If you want to send me more specifics, maybe we figure out a solution together. 😁
How long do u usually wait between each color/coat of paint?
Hey there! Great question! Personally I wait about 24 hours on most projects, but for quicker projects, I have waited as little as 4 hours. My recommendation is the longer, the better, but as little as 4 hours has worked, but I wouldn't recommend it. I hope this answers your question. Thank you so much for watching and commenting!
how do i cut masking tape without damaging the primer/undercoat i already covered the piece with? whenever i try to cut masking tape on the model, i end up with little scratches where i cut the tape.
Im scared to try this technique on my dear hg ibo gundam frames😫
Those are the best ones to try! They have great detail and are relatively cheap compared to so many others. If you're still super worried, look into EG or SD kits
😁
Get your pre-cut masks here!
gundamplacestore.com/collections/resin-conversion-kits/products/cantonese-c-studio-precut-masking-tape-multiples-options-available
Dude every video you do is so informative and awesome to watch I’m not sure I’ll ever use masking but if I ever consider it one day I’ll come back to this video 😉.
Kind Regards AuraKnight
P.S How are you doing by the way?
Hey, thank you so much. Been good. Just got back from a trip which pushed back this video a bit. 😅 But all in all, well. 😁
@@PlamoTherapist That’s cool 😎 it’s good to get back out there & see the world 🌎 again 🤣🤣🤣🤣.
Absolutely! Can't wait to get back to the home-country if Gunpla 😆
Hey! Send me a private message. 😁
and tips on how to cut the corners of the masking? my corners game sucks
Darn. I can't believe I missed that. 😆
What I like to do is pull the knife in the panel lines to the corner, then on the last pull, bring my knife up so that it's on its tip and use that to turn it around the corner, then connect the to sides. You can do this both ways once or twice and that should get you the corner you need. 😁
Hope that helps and best of luck!
Another option is to start in the corner and pull out and away from there. This way you start by pushing the knife into the corner and it helps get that corner truly in there and separated. Give both of these a shot and see which one works best for you!
@@PlamoTherapist cool, thx man. Imma try that next time I mask. Currently in process doing the proof snap build as we speak before painting. Keep up the good tips my dude 🤙
Thank you so much and best of luck!!!
damn beat me to first great video as always
Is masking really that nesecary 🤔
Hey, great question! And the answer is that it depends.
If you're hand brushing, probably not. If you're just blocking in single colors with an airbrush or rattle can, probably not. If you want two distinct colors on one piece with clean separation, then absolutely. I haven't found a way to get clean lines between colors without masking when using an airbrush or rattle can, but if you figure that out, then I gotta learn your secrets. 🤣🤣🤣
Jokes aside, I hope this answers your question and I wish you the best of luck whether you choose to mask or not. 😁
First!!!