I can not find it on AE either. Having disassembled it, your vid is clear enough I could make one on the lathe fairly easily (not for $12 🙂). I have one from Aircraft Tool Supply which is similar but it has a long bronze bushing.
Yeah, it's pretty frustrating that it hasn't been listed for a while. And it really is a simple device that can be built with a lathe like you said. But, no, not for $12 unfortunately. 🫤
These were all CCP-42 (stainless steel) rivets inserted into 6061-T6 aluminum sheets. This particular assembly was ruined when one of the rivets didn't pull properly and the subsequent drilling of several more replacement rivets damaged the part beyond what I was comfortable with. Maybe a "good mech" wouldn't need it, but I'm certainly above average and it made for a vastly improved outcome for me, personally. The replacement parts were about $250, so a $12 tool that improves my chances of salvaging parts is absolutely worth it, hands down. I've drilled quite a few of these rivets on this project and there's about a 50% chance they'll spin unless you have access to the back side. With a tiny bit of practice, I'm pretty confident that I can now drill rivets all day without a single mishap using the tool.
Okay, but your holes already have a nice starter hole... my guitar case hinges have rivets and I have broken drill bits and whatever you call that punch, they break in half... you can't drill a round surface everything. just slips right off, been working this for weeks now...
Yeah, this is for pull/blind rivets. Sounds like your guitar case has compression rivets. Maybe try using a file or a Dremel with a grinding wheel to flatten the round top of the rivet before trying to drill it.
Possibly, but not likely. This tool is mostly useful for poorly pulled, pull rivets. With a driven rivet you should be able to tap the mandrel through the rest of the way and essentially pull the attached material away. Since driven rivets can be used in a situation where the back side is enclosed, you might not be able to tap the mandrel all the way through and you'll end up running the drill bit into the mandrel when you go to drill it. In that situation, depending on how delicate the top material is, you might be better off grinding the rivet head off. Just be careful to only grind the rivet (and NOT your workpiece too).
That whole part is ruined because I wasn't able to cleanly drill a rivet out after it pulled incorrectly. I think it cost like $200 to buy the replacement parts. The tool worked pretty well, I thought. Definitely worth the $12 I spent on it.
I can not find it on AE either. Having disassembled it, your vid is clear enough I could make one on the lathe fairly easily (not for $12 🙂). I have one from Aircraft Tool Supply which is similar but it has a long bronze bushing.
Yeah, it's pretty frustrating that it hasn't been listed for a while. And it really is a simple device that can be built with a lathe like you said. But, no, not for $12 unfortunately. 🫤
Where did you obtain this item? I can't find the same one that you used. Great video BTW!
I put a link in the description, but apparently the link is dead now. I can't find them anymore. Sorry, maybe they're out of stock??
Try doing that to a Chobert rivet with that thing or a Cherimax. Having a sharp drill is the key and staying center. A good mech would not need that.
These were all CCP-42 (stainless steel) rivets inserted into 6061-T6 aluminum sheets. This particular assembly was ruined when one of the rivets didn't pull properly and the subsequent drilling of several more replacement rivets damaged the part beyond what I was comfortable with. Maybe a "good mech" wouldn't need it, but I'm certainly above average and it made for a vastly improved outcome for me, personally. The replacement parts were about $250, so a $12 tool that improves my chances of salvaging parts is absolutely worth it, hands down. I've drilled quite a few of these rivets on this project and there's about a 50% chance they'll spin unless you have access to the back side. With a tiny bit of practice, I'm pretty confident that I can now drill rivets all day without a single mishap using the tool.
Will this work on a Glock magazine that is pinned ?
Okay, but your holes already have a nice starter hole... my guitar case hinges have rivets and I have broken drill bits and whatever you call that punch, they break in half... you can't drill a round surface everything. just slips right off, been working this for weeks now...
Yeah, this is for pull/blind rivets. Sounds like your guitar case has compression rivets. Maybe try using a file or a Dremel with a grinding wheel to flatten the round top of the rivet before trying to drill it.
@@dan_der_flieger I don't have a dremmel... i'm thinking i'll make a youtube video...
Would this work ok on driven rivets vs the pulled rivets?
Possibly, but not likely. This tool is mostly useful for poorly pulled, pull rivets. With a driven rivet you should be able to tap the mandrel through the rest of the way and essentially pull the attached material away.
Since driven rivets can be used in a situation where the back side is enclosed, you might not be able to tap the mandrel all the way through and you'll end up running the drill bit into the mandrel when you go to drill it. In that situation, depending on how delicate the top material is, you might be better off grinding the rivet head off. Just be careful to only grind the rivet (and NOT your workpiece too).
Seems like a lot of work to drill a rivet out.
That whole part is ruined because I wasn't able to cleanly drill a rivet out after it pulled incorrectly. I think it cost like $200 to buy the replacement parts. The tool worked pretty well, I thought. Definitely worth the $12 I spent on it.