Fiat Panda 1.3 Multijet Diesel 2005 Manifold and EGR Removal
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- Removal and cleaning of the Inlet Manifold and EGR on a Fiat Panda (169) 1.3 Multijet Diesel.
Tools Required: Sockets - 7mm, 10mm, 13mm, 17mm
Torx - T20, T30, T40
Socket extensions
Vehicle Jack & Axle Stands
Flat Blade Screwdriver
Pliers
Cleaners: Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner, Brake cleaner, small paint brush, wire
wool, paper towelling
Drain Pipe Flexible Brush: www.amazon.co....
Manifold Gasket: www.ebay.co.uk...
THIS IS NOT A HOW TO VIDEO, JUST AN OBSERVATION OF THE WAY I DID THE REPAIR/RENEWAL. I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE CAUSED BY FOLLOWING THIS VIDEO TO REPAIR YOUR VEHICLE. PARTS & PART NUMBERS CORRECT AS OF SEPTEMPBER 2020
Thank you for watching this video
More from Pappo's Garage soon ... next will be replacing the beam axle
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Music By: DJ Bug Star & Super Rhi
Video Creator: Movavi Video Editor Plus
Microphone: Tonor
I'm here because I'm currently fighting the clutch slave cylinder. I have the full metal intercooler pipe which is proving a right bastard! Thanks for the video!
You're welcome
I'm not a novice, but did this recently and found your instructions invaluable. Biggest PITA as you said was the b****d clips, replaced with jubilee. I would add - Take care removing the vac pump cover, the rotor and vanes shoot out, and I removed both heater hoses complete at the bulkhead, which gave more valuable room when putting the EGR valve back on the block. Thanks again.
You're welcome, Chris and thank you for the feedback.
I would say the best video I have seen in a long time, well done you.
Just having this done on my 08 plate at cost of £400-£500. Including diagnostic, 3 hour labour, clean out manifold n new gasket. Replace EGR valve n clear engine warning light. Cars done 96 000 miles.
Yikes! Not cheap but you've found somewhere who will repair it. I've known garages refuse to take on this job as it's a pig to do. Hope you have many more happy miles in yours when it returns
have just done this job on corsa D very trickey didn't need to remove battery as there is a bit more room have to clean and refit manifold what a ball breaker of a job, nice video keep up the good work regards from the emerald isle
Thank you for your reply. I hope you've sorted your Corsa and its running well. More video waiting to edit just need to find the time.
@@papposgarage Hi, daughter's corsa going great used car foam gun and pressure washer to clean manifold , best regards
Many thanks for doing this and uploading the video, I still need smaller hands.
what an absolutely brilliant video demonstration...well done
Thank you, your comments are very much appreciated
@@papposgarage 00
@@papposgarage 0000
Thank you for this video. I feel myself more able to do that now with your explanation. But it will be a very very huge job. Prey for me 🤣
🙏🙏🙏
@@papposgarage i did it !! Thank you very very much ! Grâce à vous ! The manifold and the egr was completely full of scale. You're the best ! Still Thanks
cheers for this, saved me allot of finding things out the hard way, bit@H of a job but your video helped a lot .
You're welcome Tim. Hope you get your car sorted
I've got a Fiat Fiorino half in bits and the inlet manifold looks very similar. I have been having a fuel smell in the cab and did wonder if you had experienced similar. Having said that, the access is so poor I'm now looking at taking the engine out for a full overhaul as I'm sure it's nearly as easy as trying to get to the EGR value.
Hi Charles, thanks for your reply. I've got a set of videos in post-production involving the removal, partial strip down and rebuild of a 1.3 multijet from a Fiat Panda. Finding the time to put it together has been challenging lately. I've not had a fuel smell in the cabin in either of the Pandas, although I have had the smell of hot oil when the blower is on. I'll get them finished (3 parts) and upload them here soon
Hello, great video! I have also a Fiat panda 1.3 diesel, the main issue with it îs that it has difficult starts at cold temperatures especially and sometimes it stalls at idle. I've check all the injection components and they seem to be fine. What else should I look for? Thank you!
Hi Catalin. Apologies for not getting back sooner. I'd start with the glowplugs, check that the resistances are low. A high resistance on 1 plug can make it difficult to start. Also, poor injectors can cause the engine to stall if the spray from the injector nozzle is poor, usually due to carbon build up or contaminants in the fuel system post filter. Another thing to check is the fuel filter. This should be changed every few years, as diesel fuel waxing can occur in cold weather, this clogs the fuel filter leading to poor supply.
Did you do any glow plug replacement on this engine? I have to replace it now, one is defective. However I am not sure shall I put it together dry condition (on thread and conical seat areas)or with some engine oil or copper paste? Do you have any recommendation? I have not found any service manual for advice... Thanks
Hi Zodiatti1825. When I've replaced any glowplugs (or sparkplugs) I've used a high temp grease like copaslip (copper grease) on the threads. It's not guaranteed to stop glowplug seizure in the cylinder head but it will certainly help
my EGR valve was stuck to close position. Now I cleaned it based on your guidance but I made something wrong because I have found black oil on the EGR valve on the flex pipe. I guess this tricky clamp is not properly fit or the shim is fallen off.... Now I have to redo everything or need to disassembly it to see where the leakage is.... in case of black oil presence can we conclude the turbo is dead?
Hi Zodiatti. Thank you for your questions. Firstly, to find out where the leak is without disassembly there are cheap smoke leak/EVAP tester kits out there (around £50 - £70) Although it would take a little setting up, time is saved by not dismantling everything you've done.
Secondly, oil in the flexi pipe. Is there oil inside the lower rubber intercooler pipe? The one from the turbo to the intercooler? If there is, the turbo may be passing a little oil, but it doesn't mean that its dead. If this pipe has a lot of oil, and the car's exhaust is really smokey then there may be a more serious issue. The oil has continued through the intercooler and up the second pipe into the inlet manifold. There are rebuild kits out there (I have got a video on a turbo rebuild on here) and it wasn't too difficult to fix either.
@@papposgarage Thanks for your response I do appreciate it. I saw all your videos about these topics:) I am not so brave to go to hard core turbo rebuild so I just ordered a cartridge from Lithuania as it was the cheapest option for 80€ from turbocentras. Refurbish kit could be half price including postage to Austria from UK or other EU lands however I decided if the cartridge rebuild will be successful I will definitely try the hard core way too as you have shown it to us. Unfortunately my wife's car is in daily usage and now we have oil split under the car every day after a longer trip (10+km) so as soon as the new turbo arrives I need to build it in. Another issue is what I have found and your video was also not detailed enough how to put back this EGR pipe clamp properly. Now I have oil leakage on that clamp and I tried it 3 times spending more than a day to put it back correctly but no chance the width of the pipe flange is 1mm wider than the with of the clamp itself. I bought for 15€ a brand new clamp from Suzuki dealer but it has exactly same issue!!!! It makes me completely crazy. :( My last hope is to find some alternative wider clamp in the only available junkyard nearby....
Hi thanks for the video! I'm just looking at doing this on my Doblo. I was wondering about replacing the rubbish jubilee type clips, what sort of diameter should I order? Also do they need to be able to withstand high pressure? My friend recommended using t-bolt style ones for high pressure applications.
Hi Karim, thank you for your comments. I replaced the manufacturers pipe clips due to 2 reasons: Firstly, some of the clips were damaged as they were removed, & secondly they would of been difficult to clamp back into position with such limited space available. Hence why I used jubilee or worm screw type pipe clamps. There is no reason why you cannot use spring type or T-Bolt type clamps, whatever you feel comfortable using. As for high pressure pipes, there aren't any on the air manifold/boost pipe/intercooler side. Nor is there any on the oil breather circuit. The heater pipes that attach to the EGR heat exchanger would be the only ones I'd pay extra attention to, but even then they're not under high pressure. Just the fear of losing coolant if they're not seated correctly or clamped up tightly enough. Good luck with your Doblo fix, iirc you've got a little more room in the engine compartment to work.
Thanks. Could this be the reason my wife's Lancia Musa with the same engine does not go uphill in first gear and the turbo only works from 3000 rpm to 3500 rpm?
Hi Bojan. Thank you for your comment. I'd do some further checks first. Check the turbo actuator is moving freely (located behind the turbo) and the catalytic converter is not sooted up (does it have a dpf?) All these in my opinion could also cause poor running too, especially that the turbo isn't spooling up until 3000 revs. If memory serves me right the turbo should kick in around 2000 revs
hi, how difficult is it just to undo the egr from the cylinder head slightly, to fit a plate in? [plate has slotted holes, so the egr doesnt have to have the bolts fully removed]
Hi Nick, it's possible to fit a blanking plate, it'll be very tight gaining access to it. It might be worth gaining a little more room by removing the exhaust clamp and swinging the pipe out of the way. I reckon you'll still have to drain the coolant and remove the hoses to gain access to the bolts of the EGR. Fitting the plate could be achieved from the top end, just feed through the myriad of pipes and wires. Good luck and let us know how you got on
Hi. Will it be similar procedure in Grande Punto 2008? Thanks
Apart from a few small changes to the model engine layout, it should be the same. With it being the Grande Punto, you should have better access to the rear of the engine too. Good luck
@@papposgarage Thanks a lot 👍🏻
Did this on my mito what a bastard of a job and the stupid egr flexible pipe is still leaking somewhat and it's fukinn and the clamp is refusing to sit properly
Hi pal, yes the EGR flexi is a pig to clamp properly. I even struggled to do another one with the engine out of the car (another video in production). There must be a tool out there that will make that job easier
@@papposgarage since my egr is mapped closed I just opted to plug up both the intake side and the flexi pipe side
also a tip I replaced all the torx bolts for egr and manifold with hex bolts as they have better engagement and an affirmative feel when the tool is ''in''
Hi mate. How much do you charge for this job and where are you?
Hi Ben,
Thank you for your reply. I am not a qualified mechanic, I do this in my spare time and for some perverse reason, I quiet enjoy it. However, I am not offering these services to anyone outside of my family.
A qualified mechanic will have indemnity/business insurance that will cover them if something goes wrong whilst repairing a vehicle and unless you wish to tackle this job yourself, I would recommend seeking out a garage that will undertake this work on your behalf.
I'm sorry that I couldn't be of more help,
All the best
@@papposgarage Many of us are grateful for your thorough work and "perversions"! 😀
Have just replaced the egr on a 2009 fiat panda and it won't start just turns over.
Hi Adz44. Just a suggestion, go around and check all the electrical connections are fully home, as you would have had to remove some to replace the egr. Also, if you have an OBD2 reader, plug it in and clear the codes
@@papposgarage I had to tow it around the corner to get it going some crap from cleaning the inlet must of got into the valve seats I think. all good now.
@@Adz44-_- glad to read that you've sorted it 👍🏻