Thanks for the great video! I have to replace the axle seals on a 2011 Escape XLT 3.0L V6 AWD and this tip is much appreciated. Being the shade tree variety mechanic, I just raised the rear end of the vehicle, placed blocks under the tires, and then dropped the jack. This kept the weight of the vehicle on the suspension and I didn't have to remove the control arms or worry about using a jack to compress the shocks to gain clearance to remove or reinstall the axle shafts. Does take a bit of wiggling, but way faster than disassembling the entire rear suspension. I didn't notice a reference to it in the video, but take care to disconnect the electrical connector at the top of the assembly from the wiring harness and release the retainer clip from the vehicle body before you try to remove the differential. Still waiting on FedEx to show up with the replacement seals, but I believe it will be necessary to leave the differential loose to fully seat the axle shafts one at a time with the help of a tap or two from a 3-pound sledge, then install the mounting bolts.
This sounds great because I have to do this but I have one concern which is how well the new shaft seal will take the siding back everything into place! I wish you made a video due to the incredible time saving task this is
I got a question. How did you diagnose that it was the rear differential that was making the noise and not the Coupler bolted to the front of the differential?
I tried to use this method to replace differential on my drive way. It was easy to get them out but impossible to pop the axle back in. After 8 hours struggling under the car, I decided to take out the axles out from the wheel and popup them into the differential. I'll put the axle back into the wheel hub tomorrow. Too tied today.
L O V E D this clip Daryl !! GREAT INFO. !!! *See: 2013 Ford Escape ta see what I had ta do (when you have time). NOT Ford's best design ta even be "pro-active" and change the rear diff. OIL ! Best :- )
How did you mange to install the shafts back into the diff? I have the passenger side installed but I am having a hard time with the driver side. it remains out by about 1/2". The diff is installed again but having the troubles with the driver shaft. Any tips? This was an excellent video for removal. If only it showed the install as well!
latneek w I had a terrible time getting them back in myself, I realized that the spring clips on the end of the shaft had become distorted I had to remove them bend them back into shape and then snapped in my back on
latneek w it's been awhile since I did that one, but I might have even left one of the retainer Clips completely off then just let it stay in with the splines that's not going anywhere without the clip
daryl turcott - I just swapped my rear diff with a junk yard sourced assembly using this method. To set the retainer clips I put the assembly on the cross member to about the mounting point but not attached and used a non marring hammer to move the diff from side to side, no problem! Thanks for the vid saved me hours considering I had to pull the junk yard one myself. Used diff (150k miles on it, like new for my escape!) with new seals and oil, cost was about $200 - I chalk that one up as a win!
I've been hoping someone made this method work, I need to replace both axle shaft seals and removing the struts and control arms on a 13 year old truck from the rust belt just isn't gonna happen without a cutting torch.
That was definitely a whole lot easier and faster than I thought it would be how to replace the seals the way to get the CV axles to click back in is put the differential up in the whole damn place then grab the CV axles with a big pair of channel locks and smacked the channel locks with a hammer and they click in place
Would this be an easier way to replace cv half shafts? I've got a 2005 Ford Escape with the right rear half shaft with come play, and a replacement driveshaft from a wrecking yard. I'm unsure whether it's the driveshaft or the half shafts, but doing it your way looks like a natural to get both done.
@@darylturcott No. Not sure. It's the hybrid escape, 2005. It's been a longtime problem. Vibration at around 20mph and 40mph. Above 50, it's been fine. It's been stable for a long time, but just recently got worse, tending toward a rumble, and I want to drive 1000miles to move and not have to worry about breaking down. It's what I'd expect for something spinning, with 20 mph as a resonant frequency for deviations from centerline, hence the same issues at double 20 = 40. I'm inferring that It becomes more of a rumble than vibration as the deviation from centerline gets larger. I had tried to replace the driveshafts once, but screwed up the front cv joint of the replacement, and only ended up replacing the rear. Felt like the problem was about the same, and so I left it. I recently took it in to Midas, gave a test drive, and they concluded drive shaft carrier bearing. I don't think they were that sure either. No wobble could be seen there at either speed. They went by feel. Could have just been feeling vibration of some other part transmitted through drivetrain. They didn't check the wheel bearings. I thought I saw some wobble in the right rear cv axle. It has a little play when pushed/pulled by hand. Your thoughts on this would be very much appreciated. Money is tight, and breaking down hundreds of miles from anywhere I want to be with what little I have left packed in the car would be grim. A lot of diagnosis of this issue asks about "on acceleration". It can happen in all states, coasting, slowing, accelerating, and with the all wheel drive and regenerative braking of the hybrid escape, who knows when it is "accelerating" anyway?
@@darylturcott Just found TSB 05-10-7 today. DRIVELINE WHINE 20-45 MPH (32-72 KM/H) FORD: 2001-2006 Escape ISSUE Some 2001-2006 Escape and 2005-2006 Mariner vehicles equipped with a CD4E transaxle may exhibit a driveline whine at 20-45 MPH (32-72 Km/h) during light acceleration or deceleration. The sound may be more pronounced on vehicles equipped with steel wheels. ACTION If the whine noise occurs at the specified speed range 20-45 MPH (32-72 Km/h) during light acceleration or deceleration, install new dampened halfshaft assemblies. The revised halfshafts are designed to minimize the whine, however, a small amount of noise may be inherently characteristic. The dampened axle halfshafts will not correct driveline noises below or above 20-45 MPH (32-72 Km/h). Refer to Workshop Manual Section 307.
@@buybuydandavis have you had your tires balanced recently? One time I developed a pretty good shimmy so I looked around and one of my rims was missing its wheel weights. Most big retailers offer free lifetime balancing when you buy your tires through them. Edit: Nevermind it look like you already figured it out.
Dude I freaking hate these new vehicles. I got a 2014 1.6l ford escape NON-Awd...... Do I have a front differential or what? Is the front differential integrated with the transmission??? I want to drain and fill it but not a single video on doing the front diff. So I am stuck. Please help.
No, it was pretty easy with 2 people. Lift part way into place, slide shafts part way in, lift rest of way and start a couple of bolts. Snap axles all way in, then tighten all bolts. Had trouble getting axles back in. Had to remove snaP clips, bend them tighter and slip them back on.
And do you know if I can put a newer diff....say from an 09 into the 2006? they look exactly the same. just wondering if they interchange. would be nice to get a low miles one in there.
Not really I have a giant pair of channel locks after I got the differential bolt it in I just grabbed the CV axle around the metal part that was inserted into the differential and tapped it with a hammer and it clicked right in
TheTurbomopar I felt like I could have did it without removing control arms, but it seemed a lot easier just to take those bolts out and swing the wheel up and down
daryl turcott I just kept sliding it back and to 1 side until 1 axle was out. But sure saves a ton of time and work!! Getting ready to try it on a 2010 edge but not nearly as much room as on an escape, going to remove the rear Swaybar and hope for the best
Thanks for the great video! I have to replace the axle seals on a 2011 Escape XLT 3.0L V6 AWD and this tip is much appreciated. Being the shade tree variety mechanic, I just raised the rear end of the vehicle, placed blocks under the tires, and then dropped the jack. This kept the weight of the vehicle on the suspension and I didn't have to remove the control arms or worry about using a jack to compress the shocks to gain clearance to remove or reinstall the axle shafts. Does take a bit of wiggling, but way faster than disassembling the entire rear suspension. I didn't notice a reference to it in the video, but take care to disconnect the electrical connector at the top of the assembly from the wiring harness and release the retainer clip from the vehicle body before you try to remove the differential. Still waiting on FedEx to show up with the replacement seals, but I believe it will be necessary to leave the differential loose to fully seat the axle shafts one at a time with the help of a tap or two from a 3-pound sledge, then install the mounting bolts.
Great tips!
Hi Miguel , did you have to have reprogram the PCM after you installed the RDU ? TIA
Worked great on my 2005, needed seals, did it on ramps, didn't have to unhook the control arms
glad it helped. its been a year and I haven't gotten around to popping the shafts back in all the way.
nice you saved yourself some labor and your customers saves also!
I don't have any customers, just trying to help people save time. My friend has a nice pole barn he let's me use when I need a lift.
Thank you good video to the point and useful info
This sounds great because I have to do this but I have one concern which is how well the new shaft seal will take the siding back everything into place! I wish you made a video due to the incredible time saving task this is
Paul Glorioso the seal should slide in fine. I recommend 2 people to guide it all back together smoothly.
I got a question. How did you diagnose that it was the rear differential that was making the noise and not the Coupler bolted to the front of the differential?
Actually the differential turned out to be fine, the problem was in the drive shaft center carrier bearing.
daryl turcott Easy Peasy
love it! thanks.
I tried to use this method to replace differential on my drive way. It was easy to get them out but impossible to pop the axle back in. After 8 hours struggling under the car, I decided to take out the axles out from the wheel and popup them into the differential. I'll put the axle back into the wheel hub tomorrow. Too tied today.
I had a little trouble with that too. I had too pull the ring clips and bend back into shape.
L O V E D this clip Daryl !! GREAT INFO. !!! *See: 2013 Ford Escape ta see what I had ta do (when you have time). NOT Ford's best design ta even be "pro-active" and change the rear diff. OIL ! Best :- )
N8 Nate I'll check it out
Thanks.
Thanks
Is there a way to split the differential? Mine is leaking at the seal in the middle
iWin FTW I'm sorry, but I just don't know.
How much does that cost someone to replace?
How did you mange to install the shafts back into the diff? I have the passenger side installed but I am having a hard time with the driver side. it remains out by about 1/2". The diff is installed again but having the troubles with the driver shaft. Any tips? This was an excellent video for removal. If only it showed the install as well!
latneek w I had a terrible time getting them back in myself, I realized that the spring clips on the end of the shaft had become distorted I had to remove them bend them back into shape and then snapped in my back on
latneek w it's been awhile since I did that one, but I might have even left one of the retainer Clips completely off then just let it stay in with the splines that's not going anywhere without the clip
Mine hung up as well on the driver side, vise grip the shaft then tap on the tool with a hammer while rocking it
daryl turcott - I just swapped my rear diff with a junk yard sourced assembly using this method. To set the retainer clips I put the assembly on the cross member to about the mounting point but not attached and used a non marring hammer to move the diff from side to side, no problem! Thanks for the vid saved me hours considering I had to pull the junk yard one myself.
Used diff (150k miles on it, like new for my escape!) with new seals and oil, cost was about $200 - I chalk that one up as a win!
I've been hoping someone made this method work, I need to replace both axle shaft seals and removing the struts and control arms on a 13 year old truck from the rust belt just isn't gonna happen without a cutting torch.
Exactly. I had to try, I just can't imagine what might have snapped.
Having the hoist access was a big help too.
Nice 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Thanks
About to do this thing
That was definitely a whole lot easier and faster than I thought it would be how to replace the seals the way to get the CV axles to click back in is put the differential up in the whole damn place then grab the CV axles with a big pair of channel locks and smacked the channel locks with a hammer and they click in place
I'm having trouble finding info on how to replace the rear cv axle on my '07 escape. Can you help?
You need to remove rear hub/knuckle assembly. It can be difficult if its rusty. Or remove axle nut and then lower the differential a little.
Would this be an easier way to replace cv half shafts?
I've got a 2005 Ford Escape with the right rear half shaft with come play, and a replacement driveshaft from a wrecking yard.
I'm unsure whether it's the driveshaft or the half shafts, but doing it your way looks like a natural to get both done.
Yes, I would do it this way if I had to do one. Are you sure it's not a bad wheel bearing?
@@darylturcott
No. Not sure. It's the hybrid escape, 2005.
It's been a longtime problem. Vibration at around 20mph and 40mph. Above 50, it's been fine. It's been stable for a long time, but just recently got worse, tending toward a rumble, and I want to drive 1000miles to move and not have to worry about breaking down.
It's what I'd expect for something spinning, with 20 mph as a resonant frequency for deviations from centerline, hence the same issues at double 20 = 40. I'm inferring that It becomes more of a rumble than vibration as the deviation from centerline gets larger.
I had tried to replace the driveshafts once, but screwed up the front cv joint of the replacement, and only ended up replacing the rear. Felt like the problem was about the same, and so I left it.
I recently took it in to Midas, gave a test drive, and they concluded drive shaft carrier bearing. I don't think they were that sure either. No wobble could be seen there at either speed. They went by feel. Could have just been feeling vibration of some other part transmitted through drivetrain. They didn't check the wheel bearings. I thought I saw some wobble in the right rear cv axle. It has a little play when pushed/pulled by hand.
Your thoughts on this would be very much appreciated. Money is tight, and breaking down hundreds of miles from anywhere I want to be with what little I have left packed in the car would be grim.
A lot of diagnosis of this issue asks about "on acceleration". It can happen in all states, coasting, slowing, accelerating, and with the all wheel drive and regenerative braking of the hybrid escape, who knows when it is "accelerating" anyway?
@@darylturcott
Just found TSB 05-10-7 today.
DRIVELINE WHINE 20-45 MPH (32-72 KM/H)
FORD:
2001-2006 Escape
ISSUE
Some 2001-2006 Escape and 2005-2006 Mariner vehicles equipped with a CD4E transaxle may exhibit a driveline whine at 20-45 MPH (32-72 Km/h) during light acceleration or deceleration. The sound may be more pronounced on vehicles equipped with steel wheels.
ACTION
If the whine noise occurs at the specified speed range 20-45 MPH (32-72 Km/h) during light acceleration or deceleration, install new dampened halfshaft assemblies. The revised halfshafts are designed to minimize the whine, however, a small amount of noise may be inherently characteristic. The dampened axle halfshafts will not correct driveline noises below or above 20-45 MPH (32-72 Km/h). Refer to Workshop Manual Section 307.
@@buybuydandavis have you had your tires balanced recently? One time I developed a pretty good shimmy so I looked around and one of my rims was missing its wheel weights. Most big retailers offer free lifetime balancing when you buy your tires through them.
Edit: Nevermind it look like you already figured it out.
I’m leaking fluid in the rear cv axle to the differential does that mean my cv axle is bad.
Check the rubber boot for damage or rips. If there are none, it's likely one of the rear differential seals.
Woooooow
What is that bushing called I’m having a hard time finding it
Which bushing? Please Give me a time mark to look at on the video
Will this method work on an AWD Taurus?
I am sorry, I don't know. I have never been under a taurus.
How did it go on the Taurus? I have one tomorrow
Is this the same on a Taurus?
I've never worked on one.
Dude I freaking hate these new vehicles. I got a 2014 1.6l ford escape NON-Awd...... Do I have a front differential or what? Is the front differential integrated with the transmission??? I want to drain and fill it but not a single video on doing the front diff. So I am stuck. Please help.
The front differential is integrated in the transmission and is lubricated with transmission fluid.
Good night I need my to change your are in Canada
will work on escape 2010 ?
Yes,
@@darylturcott 2016?
WOULD THIS WORK ON A 2006?
=
yes, they are all the same.
awesome, do you have a video of putting it back together?
No, it was pretty easy with 2 people. Lift part way into place, slide shafts part way in, lift rest of way and start a couple of bolts. Snap axles all way in, then tighten all bolts. Had trouble getting axles back in. Had to remove snaP clips, bend them tighter and slip them back on.
And do you know if I can put a newer diff....say from an 09 into the 2006? they look exactly the same. just wondering if they interchange.
would be nice to get a low miles one in there.
Done! what did that take me an hour
Cool. Any trouble getting the rear shafts to push in? I had a terrible time.
Not really I have a giant pair of channel locks after I got the differential bolt it in I just grabbed the CV axle around the metal part that was inserted into the differential and tapped it with a hammer and it clicked right in
Now I can't put the control arm back :(
I had no trouble, but I had a helper, a hoist and a support jack.
Did this in my driveway without removing any control arm bolts. I do believe I had the wheels off though.
Rick L. What were your symptoms for changing out?
Just did one and did not have to undo the rear control arms
TheTurbomopar thanks for watching
TheTurbomopar I felt like I could have did it without removing control arms, but it seemed a lot easier just to take those bolts out and swing the wheel up and down
TheTurbomopar if you have any issues getting the axles to pop back into place? I had a terrible time trying to get them to go
daryl turcott I just kept sliding it back and to 1 side until 1 axle was out. But sure saves a ton of time and work!! Getting ready to try it on a 2010 edge but not nearly as much room as on an escape, going to remove the rear Swaybar and hope for the best
Didn't seem to have trouble getting them back in, just slid them in and put the diff back up. They I prob hit each side with a deadblow to pop them in