Jøtul is made in Norway:-) To clean the windov/glass, use a wet paper and put the ash on it, and then rub. The stove must be cold before you do it, sure. Then in the end, clean it with a dry piece of newspaper gnarled together. It will be completely clean;-) Just a tip from a Norwegian:-)
I love my woodstove glove. My other favorite tool for fire making is a blowing device. It looks like an old school car antenna and expands and contracts. It's hollow like a straw and you can blow on coals to get the fire going. A must have for about $10 usd on Amazon. I have a Canadian made EcoFan too. I have a good time making loads of easy to ignite kindling using the Kindling Cracker tool. Invented by a 14yo girl in New Zealand.
Wood ash and water make an excellent glass cleaner with a nylon scrubby. Cold air coming down is a back draft. We use a blow dryer to heat the air in the pipe before building a fire. Also, leave the door open at least 1/2 hour before starting a fire and make sure your wood is room temp. I have the same stove!
Phil Herring Cove, NS I/We have the same model and have for 7 years now maybe 8. Sits just outside the old fireplace, looks great takes up little space, paint the top every 2 or three years heats our 1195 sq/foot one and a half home nicely, but yeah not primary heat. Great in a power outage any day of the year...! put the copper pot of water on for sure, good call. Back draft, smoke issues, a few times but yes....... heat the pipe/stove with a little paper first. does not like any big wood longer than 16" especially if it is big round. I have had a few words with wood processors over the years. Super sweet looking stove, still love it. I would buy it all over again. 3 to 4 cord a year user, we love to burn.
When you get cold air coming down the chimney, open your door there along with priming the stove with a newspaper and should take care of it. Negative pressure sucking cold air down the chimney , plus cold air drops anyways.
Thanks for the tip! Yes I usually light up little piece of newspaper to try to get the draft started, but it's only on a very occasional basis that we get the cold air falling down the chimney. Most of the time it starts right up.
open your main air control fully...and build a reverse fire and should not smoke. As soon as your reverse fire starts leave door cracked just a little to get going...and once burning on own can shut door. When solid coals inside then open door slowly and add your big pieces of wood. With reverse fire you put two logs on bottom with gap...then pile kindling on top and start with fire starter, paraffin balls or whatever you like. Just make sure all dampers fully open before starting...
The cool air is because the house is very tight. Just crack a door or window and it will take right off. Sounds like negative pressure . The newer windows and doors seal the houses better .
@@JohnvanGurp Wow you must really have a very tight home. Usually that seems to help ? How tall is your chimney? Is it stainless steel or clay liners? If it is clay liners sometimes it takes a little longer to get a draft going ?
@@752brickie it’s pretty tight… it’s 100 years old but has all new windows and doors and we recently insulated the downstairs with spray foam. Chimney is insulated steel Selkirk type and around 2m (6ft) above the flat roof.
@@JohnvanGurp I can understand your situation. Sometimes it takes a little to get a draft started. Sounds like you are pretty tightly sealed and in a cold climate,that can be a plus. Selkirk chimneys are very good. You have a very safe installation !
I have the same Jotul in my home. The backdraft is most likely due to the height of your chimney pipe and the ridge of your home, if it is only and issue when the wind is extreme then there is no need for concern. A slight puff back may also occur when starting a fire in extremely cold conditions the metal will expand quickly and that too should not be an issue. I would disagree with your installer concerning the dry wall. Concerning safety it is not an issue but a stone face on that wall will in the long run be much better and you will notice the heat retention in the stone. In only a few years of use that dry wall will need yearly painting and the trim work will get dingy. Consider a different back wall. Great choice of stove though. 14-15” splits are perfect.
Thanks for the tips! The chimney is high above the highest part of the roof, so that’s not it. Not too concerned about retaining heat in the wall… it all ends up in the house eventually.
I've been using wood heat for over 40 years to heat my house. 2 years ago we added an addition and required a second wood stove. I bought one of these jotuls at my local wood stove store, mainly because it was the only one they had under 1500.00$. Immediately after using it I realized these things are extremely dangerous. The lip on the stove is only about 2 in tall, if you do not clean the stove out about every 3 days hot coals will literally fall out of the stove when you open the door all over your floor. There is also very little clearance between the bottom of the door and the very small ashtray that's provided with the stove. A piece of hot coal any bigger than a marble will cause you to not be able to shut the door again, which is super exciting when a half burnt chunk of wood falls out of the door when you open it. These stove might work for some Ambience every once in awhile for a romantic evening but I certainly would not suggest one for a primary heating source that will have a fire in it for months at a time. Unless of course you don't mind letting your fire go out every couple days to clean it.
That's good feedback for sure. This absolutely isn't our primary heat as we also have an oil warm air furnace, so the stove goes out overnight and some days if we're very busy we don't even get a chance to fire it up. I clean the ashes every morning before a fire so the buildup of coals is not an issue. I agree it's way too small as a full time primary heat source, although if I maintain it for an all day burn it sure heats the house nicely. On those days the furnace doesn't fire at all. Cheers!
I hope you didnt take it as criticism directed at you. I have been all over the net trying to finde a place to leave feed back on this stove. All the review options I found require you to have bought a stove from the place that manages the reviews and jotul themselves have never replied to any of my emails. I found it quite concerning that a wood stove manufacturer with such a good reputation that's been in the business for so long would have engineered such a dangerous wood stove. And now they're one of the few manufacturers that meet the restrictive laws in California, which has caused the cost of wood stoves to Skyrocket.
if you move your thermometer to the stove pipe, you'll get a better idea of the smoke temp leaving the house. that's where you need to monitor creosote build up, not inside the fire box.
These stoves don't draw very well because of the efficiency rating they are going for. Wood burns more "efficiently" at a cooler temperature, just like your car gets better gas mileage at a slower speed. You can help this by taking out the afterburner in the top of the Firebox and by cracking your door slightly when you're trying to get the fire going. It might be more efficient at a lower temperature, but it will not heat your house up as fast and in some cases cannot keep up with the heat loss. like the car comparison, you might get better gas mileage Driveing 35 miles an hour but it's going to take you twice as long to get there.
We seem to have a good draft though. Besides the rare occasion where there's cold air coming down the chimney first thing in the morning, once it gets going it just roars if it's left with the ventilation slider open, so I tend to burn it at half draft and it burns bright and nice and hot.
@@JohnvanGurp I think I have a slightly different model than yours. I'm just use to a good old Fisher wood stove with the two screw vents. If you have that thing wide open you could literally melt your chimney pipe. If you shut it down all the way it will put the fire out and make charcoal. I also only have to clean it out once maybe twice a year if I'm burning Oak. What bugs me the most is lack of capacity, if I put more than two or three small pieces, say more then 3-4" in diameter I cannot open the door because a piece may fall out. Seems very dangerous to me. One of these days I will go buy a metal shop and have them Fab me up a taller front plate, luckily they are removable in my model. I live in Northern California 45 minutes from the closest small town and was very surprised at the lack of options for wood stoves because of all the new regulations California has put in. I really wish I would have been more patient and looked around until I found a good old used stove or paid the same amount of money to have a local metal shop make me one to my own specs.
For reference, what is the size of the room that the fire is located in? I am very interested in the brand. I grew up with a Ben Franklin stove for a room that was roughly 18-feet by 13-feet. This video was very well put together and I hope that you enjoy many years with your woodstove.
Glad you liked the video! It's hard to describe the room because the stove is sitting in a corner of two rectangular areas in an L shape. If this helps at all the main floor area is around 750 sq feet and the stove heats it very nicely. I do find I'm adding wood quite regularly, but there are periods where I can cut down the draft and burn it slow on a big bed of embers with a big log and I can leave it for quite a while... hours. Our house is well insulated and that helps make it easy to heat that main level with just the stove during the days. It dies down at night and the furnace kicks in. In my small house I didn't want a stove so big that it would drive us out from the heat. This is not our main heat source but some days it sure functions as it!
Nothing really. I had it inspected and cleaned by a technician after a full season of use and the chimney was very clean. So I guess that is a pro to report. Other than that it’s been very predictable and pleasant with no issues or concerns.
Hi John, thank you for this review, but you didn't even mention the underneath air regulator. As far as I understand, it is the secondary air circul which makes this stove more efficient and less polluting. So it should be in an open position all the time. But the question is in which case it should be closed? Best regards Eugene
Thanks Eugene, I’m not aware that the F100 has a secondary air control or opening. My Jotul F3 has one at the bottom of the door but I don’t see one on this stove, or see it mentioned in the manual anywhere.
@@JohnvanGurp really?! I have a long handle with a ball on it underneath. Are you sure you don't have it? The main issue of this stove is the secondary air contour which makes it more efficient and clean
@@eugenegelfand2760 no there’s definitely nothing like that and I even checked the manual again and there’s no mention of a secondary air control. I even looked all around the back and under side with a flashlight to make sure, and there’s nothing. I bought the stove from new and very familiar with it. Isn’t that strange, you must have a different model? It’s designed so the primary air washes over the glass.
Hello, I have a question, how much do you close the upper damper on the stove? I close the lower one completely, but the upper one halfway - if I close it more, it doesn't burn for me. It's about the correct setting :-) Thank you
We must have a different model stove… Mine has only the upper damper, and I saw them close it smaller than 1/3 of the way open. If I go smaller than that, it starts to smoke. We’ll.
Interesting, I’m not sure to be honest. It’s not an issue with my installation so I wonder if it’s related to your chimney design. When I’m not burning I keep the air intake control on the stove in the closed position, but even when it’s open there’s very little air movement. Do you use a brick or insulated chimney?
Hello, I bought these stoves. But I have a problem that the stoves are slipping on my tiles. Does anyone have the same problem? how to solve it lined with rubber? Thank you
@@JohnvanGurp Thank you for the answer. I was also surprised that the stove moves on the paving, unfortunately I do not heat in it yet and I do not know how warm the legs of the stove are at the bottom, if I could put anti-slip rubber under my feet.
@@JohnvanGurp Thanks, yes, it's from closing the door. How do I want to close them? I have to push more and the stove will move ... I don't have a flue connected yet the stove keeps the flue plugged in. meanwhile I put the rubber feet on the stove and it's OK.
Hmmm... hard to say. It’s a 100 year old house that’s chopped up a bit. The main floor where the stove is would be around 600 sq ft and it heats that quite nicely. We don’t burn it all day and we have an oil furnace that runs when the stove is not on. The manufacturer rates it as an 800 sq ft stove.
Michael Gibbons no definitely not... I’ve found morning embers though but we don’t even attempt an overnighter. We seem to be on target for a 1.5 cord per season consumption rate.
Jøtul is made in Norway:-) To clean the windov/glass, use a wet paper and put the ash on it, and then rub. The stove must be cold before you do it, sure. Then in the end, clean it with a dry piece of newspaper gnarled together. It will be completely clean;-) Just a tip from a Norwegian:-)
Takk! ☺️
I love my woodstove glove. My other favorite tool for fire making is a blowing device. It looks like an old school car antenna and expands and contracts. It's hollow like a straw and you can blow on coals to get the fire going. A must have for about $10 usd on Amazon. I have a Canadian made EcoFan too. I have a good time making loads of easy to ignite kindling using the Kindling Cracker tool. Invented by a 14yo girl in New Zealand.
Very cool! I have one of those kindling crackers too… It’s an amazing invention.
We have two wood stoves one in the basement one on the main floor .I find on rainy days when we light it smoke comes out the door .
Great video. Feels like we're in the room with you enjoying the fire.
Thanks!
Wood ash and water make an excellent glass cleaner with a nylon scrubby. Cold air coming down is a back draft. We use a blow dryer to heat the air in the pipe before building a fire. Also, leave the door open at least 1/2 hour before starting a fire and make sure your wood is room temp. I have the same stove!
I have the same at my cabin in Montana. I'm very happy with mine.
I have this stove in my 600 sq ft cabin and love it. A few logs and a couple hours burn time will heat the entire house all night.
Yes most people do not think about welding gloves they are awesome thing to have
The Number One safety item in my opinion.
Phil
Herring Cove, NS
I/We have the same model and have for 7 years now maybe 8.
Sits just outside the old fireplace, looks great takes up little space, paint the top every 2 or three years
heats our 1195 sq/foot one and a half home nicely, but yeah not primary heat.
Great in a power outage any day of the year...! put the copper pot of water on for sure, good call.
Back draft, smoke issues, a few times but yes....... heat the pipe/stove with a little paper first.
does not like any big wood longer than 16" especially if it is big round. I have had a few words with wood processors over the years.
Super sweet looking stove, still love it. I would buy it all over again. 3 to 4 cord a year user, we love to burn.
Great stuff! Same sort of experience here. Cheers.
Thank you for the great video. I absolutely love your stool!!!❤️❤️❤️
Thanks so much!
I have the 602 and love it
I save my egg crates and use those as a fire starter
When you get cold air coming down the chimney, open your door there along with priming the stove with a newspaper and should take care of it. Negative pressure sucking cold air down the chimney , plus cold air drops anyways.
Thanks for the tip! Yes I usually light up little piece of newspaper to try to get the draft started, but it's only on a very occasional basis that we get the cold air falling down the chimney. Most of the time it starts right up.
Oh yes, John I use the "Ove Glove" and have for many years, it is the real deal ! I do not work for the Ove glove people just so you know.
open your main air control fully...and build a reverse fire and should not smoke. As soon as your reverse fire starts leave door cracked just a little to get going...and once burning on own can shut door. When solid coals inside then open door slowly and add your big pieces of wood. With reverse fire you put two logs on bottom with gap...then pile kindling on top and start with fire starter, paraffin balls or whatever you like. Just make sure all dampers fully open before starting...
Thanks for the tip, I'll try it!
The cool air is because the house is very tight. Just crack a door or window and it will take right off. Sounds like negative pressure . The newer windows and doors seal the houses better .
I tried that and very surprisingly it doesn’t help… it’s only when the stack warms up that it drafts normally again.
@@JohnvanGurp Wow you must really have a very tight home. Usually that seems to help ? How tall is your chimney? Is it stainless steel or clay liners? If it is clay liners sometimes it takes a little longer to get a draft going ?
@@752brickie it’s pretty tight… it’s 100 years old but has all new windows and doors and we recently insulated the downstairs with spray foam. Chimney is insulated steel Selkirk type and around 2m (6ft) above the flat roof.
@@JohnvanGurp I can understand your situation. Sometimes it takes a little to get a draft started. Sounds like you are pretty tightly sealed and in a cold climate,that can be a plus.
Selkirk chimneys are very good. You have a very safe installation !
@@752brickie thank you Thom… we just love that little stove. Best regards
Beauty little stove!
Oh how I wish they made stoves with the option of colored enamel. I have a gas stove from them that is enameled and I REALLY love it.
We have a red enamel wood stove here in Michigan. It’s beautiful! Purchased at Fairview Hardware in Fairview Mi
1:56 That's also sold with a plastic liner, as an ice bucket! I have one. Identical! BTW, I really like the high baseboards you have as well.
The thought of lining it never crossed my mind... Thanks!
I have the same Jotul in my home. The backdraft is most likely due to the height of your chimney pipe and the ridge of your home, if it is only and issue when the wind is extreme then there is no need for concern. A slight puff back may also occur when starting a fire in extremely cold conditions the metal will expand quickly and that too should not be an issue. I would disagree with your installer concerning the dry wall. Concerning safety it is not an issue but a stone face on that wall will in the long run be much better and you will notice the heat retention in the stone. In only a few years of use that dry wall will need yearly painting and the trim work will get dingy. Consider a different back wall. Great choice of stove though. 14-15” splits are perfect.
Thanks for the tips! The chimney is high above the highest part of the roof, so that’s not it. Not too concerned about retaining heat in the wall… it all ends up in the house eventually.
I've been using wood heat for over 40 years to heat my house. 2 years ago we added an addition and required a second wood stove. I bought one of these jotuls at my local wood stove store, mainly because it was the only one they had under 1500.00$. Immediately after using it I realized these things are extremely dangerous. The lip on the stove is only about 2 in tall, if you do not clean the stove out about every 3 days hot coals will literally fall out of the stove when you open the door all over your floor. There is also very little clearance between the bottom of the door and the very small ashtray that's provided with the stove. A piece of hot coal any bigger than a marble will cause you to not be able to shut the door again, which is super exciting when a half burnt chunk of wood falls out of the door when you open it. These stove might work for some Ambience every once in awhile for a romantic evening but I certainly would not suggest one for a primary heating source that will have a fire in it for months at a time. Unless of course you don't mind letting your fire go out every couple days to clean it.
That's good feedback for sure. This absolutely isn't our primary heat as we also have an oil warm air furnace, so the stove goes out overnight and some days if we're very busy we don't even get a chance to fire it up. I clean the ashes every morning before a fire so the buildup of coals is not an issue. I agree it's way too small as a full time primary heat source, although if I maintain it for an all day burn it sure heats the house nicely. On those days the furnace doesn't fire at all. Cheers!
I hope you didnt take it as criticism directed at you. I have been all over the net trying to finde a place to leave feed back on this stove. All the review options I found require you to have bought a stove from the place that manages the reviews and jotul themselves have never replied to any of my emails. I found it quite concerning that a wood stove manufacturer with such a good reputation that's been in the business for so long would have engineered such a dangerous wood stove. And now they're one of the few manufacturers that meet the restrictive laws in California, which has caused the cost of wood stoves to Skyrocket.
Do some people actually wait 3 days to clean the ashes out? It’s every day for me.
@@tracyk3567 in my main fireplace I only have to clean the ashes out three or four times a winter, with a fire going 24/7.
@@tracyk3567 I clean mine out every day too.
Simple and usefull review. Thanks for the share.
I wouldn't use any thing like a scratch pad, I use a damp cotton cloth with glass top oven cream cleaner that won't scratch your GLASS.
Great review thank you.
Very informative video. Thanks for uploading this!
This was helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Cold air is heavy , good video thanks
if you move your thermometer to the stove pipe, you'll get a better idea of the smoke temp leaving the house. that's where you need to monitor creosote build up, not inside the fire box.
Thanks I’ve been planning to buy a probe type as we have double wall stovepipe.
❤❤
I use an insulated chimney, below windforce 4 its okay above 4 its really annoying though....
These stoves don't draw very well because of the efficiency rating they are going for. Wood burns more "efficiently" at a cooler temperature, just like your car gets better gas mileage at a slower speed. You can help this by taking out the afterburner in the top of the Firebox and by cracking your door slightly when you're trying to get the fire going. It might be more efficient at a lower temperature, but it will not heat your house up as fast and in some cases cannot keep up with the heat loss. like the car comparison, you might get better gas mileage Driveing 35 miles an hour but it's going to take you twice as long to get there.
We seem to have a good draft though. Besides the rare occasion where there's cold air coming down the chimney first thing in the morning, once it gets going it just roars if it's left with the ventilation slider open, so I tend to burn it at half draft and it burns bright and nice and hot.
@@JohnvanGurp I think I have a slightly different model than yours. I'm just use to a good old Fisher wood stove with the two screw vents. If you have that thing wide open you could literally melt your chimney pipe. If you shut it down all the way it will put the fire out and make charcoal. I also only have to clean it out once maybe twice a year if I'm burning Oak. What bugs me the most is lack of capacity, if I put more than two or three small pieces, say more then 3-4" in diameter I cannot open the door because a piece may fall out. Seems very dangerous to me. One of these days I will go buy a metal shop and have them Fab me up a taller front plate, luckily they are removable in my model. I live in Northern California 45 minutes from the closest small town and was very surprised at the lack of options for wood stoves because of all the new regulations California has put in. I really wish I would have been more patient and looked around until I found a good old used stove or paid the same amount of money to have a local metal shop make me one to my own specs.
For reference, what is the size of the room that the fire is located in? I am very interested in the brand. I grew up with a Ben Franklin stove for a room that was roughly 18-feet by 13-feet. This video was very well put together and I hope that you enjoy many years with your woodstove.
Glad you liked the video! It's hard to describe the room because the stove is sitting in a corner of two rectangular areas in an L shape. If this helps at all the main floor area is around 750 sq feet and the stove heats it very nicely. I do find I'm adding wood quite regularly, but there are periods where I can cut down the draft and burn it slow on a big bed of embers with a big log and I can leave it for quite a while... hours. Our house is well insulated and that helps make it easy to heat that main level with just the stove during the days. It dies down at night and the furnace kicks in. In my small house I didn't want a stove so big that it would drive us out from the heat. This is not our main heat source but some days it sure functions as it!
Great video. Thinking of purchasing this same stove within a week or so. Any more pros / cons you've noticed over the last year? Thanks.
Nothing really. I had it inspected and cleaned by a technician after a full season of use and the chimney was very clean. So I guess that is a pro to report. Other than that it’s been very predictable and pleasant with no issues or concerns.
Hi John, thank you for this review, but you didn't even mention the underneath air regulator.
As far as I understand, it is the secondary air circul which makes this stove more efficient and less polluting. So it should be in an open position all the time.
But the question is in which case it should be closed?
Best regards Eugene
Thanks Eugene, I’m not aware that the F100 has a secondary air control or opening. My Jotul F3 has one at the bottom of the door but I don’t see one on this stove, or see it mentioned in the manual anywhere.
@@JohnvanGurp really?!
I have a long handle with a ball on it underneath. Are you sure you don't have it?
The main issue of this stove is the secondary air contour which makes it more efficient and clean
@@eugenegelfand2760 no there’s definitely nothing like that and I even checked the manual again and there’s no mention of a secondary air control. I even looked all around the back and under side with a flashlight to make sure, and there’s nothing. I bought the stove from new and very familiar with it. Isn’t that strange, you must have a different model? It’s designed so the primary air washes over the glass.
Vantilatörün yeri yanlış.. Bir kelepçe ile boruya monte edilmeli. Yüksekliği de soba üst yüzeyinden ortalama 75 cm olmalı.
My wife wants it on top of the stove, so that’s the deciding factor here 😊
Have you tried the top down method of lighting the fire,it heats the chimney quicker.
I’ll try it!
Hello, I have a question, how much do you close the upper damper on the stove? I close the lower one completely, but the upper one halfway - if I close it more, it doesn't burn for me. It's about the correct setting :-)
Thank you
We must have a different model stove… Mine has only the upper damper, and I saw them close it smaller than 1/3 of the way open. If I go smaller than that, it starts to smoke. We’ll.
@@JohnvanGurp Hello, I have a Jotul F100 eco. The flap is primary at the bottom and secondary air at the top.
@@skuaro_eu1463 interesting! A slightly different design on yours then.
@@JohnvanGurp Thanks, they look the same as yours, that's why I thought you had dual combustion.
I hear the wind in my living room through my jotul, is there something I can do about that? greets from holland!
Interesting, I’m not sure to be honest. It’s not an issue with my installation so I wonder if it’s related to your chimney design. When I’m not burning I keep the air intake control on the stove in the closed position, but even when it’s open there’s very little air movement. Do you use a brick or insulated chimney?
Get a pivoting wind directional stove pipe cap. This will help keep the wind from blowing down your chimney.
@@travisdoe4663 thank you
@@pjotr2650 👍 we live on the side of a hill and get hammered by wind. Our house would get filled with smoke several times a winter until we got one.
Hello, I bought these stoves. But I have a problem that the stoves are slipping on my tiles. Does anyone have the same problem? how to solve it lined with rubber? Thank you
No problem here, but my tiles are not slippery. I’m surprised to hear of an issue given the high weight.
@@JohnvanGurp Thank you for the answer. I was also surprised that the stove moves on the paving, unfortunately I do not heat in it yet and I do not know how warm the legs of the stove are at the bottom, if I could put anti-slip rubber under my feet.
@@skuaro_eu1463 How is it moving? I don’t understand how it’s possible. Is something bumping against it? Is it from the door closing? I’m puzzled.
@@skuaro_eu1463 the feet don’t get warm in my experience… all the heat goes up.
@@JohnvanGurp Thanks, yes, it's from closing the door. How do I want to close them? I have to push more and the stove will move ... I don't have a flue connected yet the stove keeps the flue plugged in. meanwhile I put the rubber feet on the stove and it's OK.
How many square feet is the unit servicing?
Hmmm... hard to say. It’s a 100 year old house that’s chopped up a bit. The main floor where the stove is would be around 600 sq ft and it heats that quite nicely. We don’t burn it all day and we have an oil furnace that runs when the stove is not on. The manufacturer rates it as an 800 sq ft stove.
Thanks John.
Can it maintain an overnight burn?
Michael Gibbons no definitely not... I’ve found morning embers though but we don’t even attempt an overnighter. We seem to be on target for a 1.5 cord per season consumption rate.
No way unhappy with mine only holds very small pieces of wood. You would have to get up 6 times to keep it going overnight
Have you had any issues with the top baffle dropping?
No, that’s never happened here. Did you have that issue? If so I wonder if there was a mistake in assembly. It sounds like it would be a big fuss.
Good video but the nasal sniffles is annoying
Ha! I wasn't even aware of that but will keep it in mind for my future videos. Cheers!
Oh, jeez, everyone gets a cold now and then. Cut him some slack.