Did black lung to upper refuse a couple years back. The first pitch of upper refuge was like a stream. Black lung was only dripping and damp, so it seemed like best option. Solid hand jams. After the routes converge it was dry and spectacular. Ended up belaying last pitch from the single giant loop like fixed gear on Matterhorn and the bottom of the thick steel fence post. Made it up right around sunset and hitched a ride back down with some dude who was projecting a 12. It was one of my best days of climbing. That last part of upper refuse passed the tree is just such cool climbing. Finger crack and some slab... pure heaven haha
This route is actually 5.5 in the guidebook. The variation I did here has a 5.6 crux move but is mostly secure 5.3 to 5.5 climbing. Super classic. My blog post linked in the description goes into more detail.
Did black lung to upper refuse a couple years back. The first pitch of upper refuge was like a stream. Black lung was only dripping and damp, so it seemed like best option. Solid hand jams. After the routes converge it was dry and spectacular. Ended up belaying last pitch from the single giant loop like fixed gear on Matterhorn and the bottom of the thick steel fence post. Made it up right around sunset and hitched a ride back down with some dude who was projecting a 12. It was one of my best days of climbing. That last part of upper refuse passed the tree is just such cool climbing. Finger crack and some slab... pure heaven haha
That's such a great linkup!
That cam above the first nut looked back clipped. Sweet climbing tho!
Hmm, I think it's deceiving in the video but I don't think it was back clipped. Thanks for the comment!
I imagine this is probably more difficult than it appears on video... what grade? 5.7? 5.8?
This route is actually 5.5 in the guidebook. The variation I did here has a 5.6 crux move but is mostly secure 5.3 to 5.5 climbing. Super classic. My blog post linked in the description goes into more detail.