I'm old; did this route in '76. Classic Gunks 5.8. Nice lead. Not sure if it's a generational thing, but why the extremely long runners? Rope drag is not an issue on a steep, direct route such as this. Likewise, 8- to 10-inch runners provide plenty of play so gear isn't torqued. You're adding up to 6 feet with rope stretch to a fall. That's more strain/wear on the rope, harder catch for the belayer, greater chance of hitting the rock on way down. I've noticed this on probably all of the Go-Proed climbs I've seen. (Perhaps they're all shot by just a couple of folks?) Anyway, however a leader feels safest is the way to go, of course. It's none of anyone else's business. Just a pet peeve from someone near Denver who misses the Gunks like hell. Great climbing out here, but watching the Hudson Valley from a belay on the Grand Traverse Ledge--especially April-May or September-October--while my second comes up is a memory I must renew before the permanent condition arrives. On belay, friends....
I spent 2 weeks in the Gunks in '81, then I came back with my wife in '85 on our honeymoon. I agree completely re. the long runners and the pro! I do believe the wide angle lens on a GoPro tends to make all the runners look even longer, but this seemed excessive. I would also have like to see more nuts placed, i.e. I remember many of those wide horizontal cracks fitting hex nuts but I guess nobody uses them anymore? :-)
I think that the longer runners only realistically place the pro slightly lower, but have the effect of not only helping rope drag, but also stopping any walking of the gear. I think that's a big difference to sport, where you just use a 'draw and only extend over a roof or ledge.
Thanks for posting this questions. I've been watching this channel for a long time and have been wondering the same thing. Soooo many runners used on every single piece.
Nice New York rock right there. I love Cali climbing but I am going back to NJ next week and will not have time to climb it! Damn. Its the smooth Sierra granite life for me!
I haven't done that route in 20 years. That pin at the bottom wasn't there; we used to slot a keyhole brass nut to protect that little boulder problem move. One of my favorite climbs in the Gunks. Hope to get back there soon!
When placing cams in a horizontal crack always place with the outside lobes down. That being said, nice smooth send. That route looks really fun. Remember "send or whip!"
I would trade better contact with the rock over always having the wider lobes down any day. Gunks rock especially can have a lot of weird bumps and grooves, so if you can get good contact just clip it and keep moving
start can feel a little weird, but I've actually seen someone place a grey Metolious in the horizontal at the bottom and it held a fall, or just suck it up and stick the move
That's an a long pitch to be lowering off. It's gotta be about 150 feet total, combining the first and second pitches. You would have to tie a second rope but then you would have the knot getting hung in the protection.
When I started, I used to carry a single biner per runner so having two isn't necessary but doing so comes with some advantages: 1. You have the option to keep your runners in the alpine draw configuration. Otherwise, you would have to sling them over your shoulder. 2. When placing passive pro (nuts, hexes, etc.) or clipping into hardpoints like pitons or bolts, you need would need to use a draw to connect the runner. Having two biners available means you're not chewing through draws (and you don't have to carry as many with you). I suppose you could make the argument that carrying less biners saves some weight but in my opinion, two biners per runner is worth it.
If your intent is to go to the top of the cliff, a 60 would probably be fine, but I'm fairly positive you wouldn't be able to lower someone back to the ground with a 60 (as I did in the video).
Hey FirstPersonBeta, why do you always put long leaders on your pro when you are climbing a straight line?? You do know that you only do that if you are climbing on a zig zag route right? Oh and by the way when you put a friend in a horizontal crack you run the risk of snapping the shaft if you take a fall. Just some friendly advise young padawan.
too many horizontal cam placements when this route could have been climbed solely with wired nuts alone- horizontal cams are one of the most common placements to fail - in testing a well placed stopper will withstand a far greater load factor than a small to medium horizontal cam - in my opinion the guy bypassed so many bomber stopper placements.....but he did climb the route very smoothly and with zero problems I just would have made different choices with regard to pro....
I don't see you leading the climb. And if you did lead it with only nuts I'm sure some smartass on a youtube comment section would give you crap for not having a multi directional first piece of gear.
No one listen to this muppet. Those placements were totally fine. And there are a dozen different ways to protect this climb. We just watched one of them.
I'm old; did this route in '76. Classic Gunks 5.8. Nice lead. Not sure if it's a generational thing, but why the extremely long runners? Rope drag is not an issue on a steep, direct route such as this. Likewise, 8- to 10-inch runners provide plenty of play so gear isn't torqued. You're adding up to 6 feet with rope stretch to a fall. That's more strain/wear on the rope, harder catch for the belayer, greater chance of hitting the rock on way down. I've noticed this on probably all of the Go-Proed climbs I've seen. (Perhaps they're all shot by just a couple of folks?) Anyway, however a leader feels safest is the way to go, of course. It's none of anyone else's business. Just a pet peeve from someone near Denver who misses the Gunks like hell. Great climbing out here, but watching the Hudson Valley from a belay on the Grand Traverse Ledge--especially April-May or September-October--while my second comes up is a memory I must renew before the permanent condition arrives. On belay, friends....
this is the dopest comment on youtube, come out to the gunks and I'll climb with ya old timer.
I spent 2 weeks in the Gunks in '81, then I came back with my wife in '85 on our honeymoon. I agree completely re. the long runners and the pro! I do believe the wide angle lens on a GoPro tends to make all the runners look even longer, but this seemed excessive. I would also have like to see more nuts placed, i.e. I remember many of those wide horizontal cracks fitting hex nuts but I guess nobody uses them anymore? :-)
I think that the longer runners only realistically place the pro slightly lower, but have the effect of not only helping rope drag, but also stopping any walking of the gear. I think that's a big difference to sport, where you just use a 'draw and only extend over a roof or ledge.
Show Boating at it's best
Thanks for posting this questions. I've been watching this channel for a long time and have been wondering the same thing. Soooo many runners used on every single piece.
Great job . and judgment with the protection. Placement cams and stoppers. Congratulations . nice route
Fantastic climb. On my to do lead list. Thanks for posting!
Nice New York rock right there.
I love Cali climbing but I am going back to NJ next week and will not have time to climb it!
Damn.
Its the smooth Sierra granite life for me!
I haven't done that route in 20 years. That pin at the bottom wasn't there; we used to slot a keyhole brass nut to protect that little boulder problem move. One of my favorite climbs in the Gunks. Hope to get back there soon!
So chill. I hope I can make my way there this summer
So calm and collected. Like a climbing Terminator.
awesome video, hope i run into ya at the gunks this summer
That was a nice looking climb. Looked like there we a nice view, shoulda shown it. Looked like a fun climb though.
Rope drag? Lol. You used to 2-4’ slings from 8’ up and on. It’s just the weight of the rope! Good send. 👊
so damn good
When placing cams in a horizontal crack always place with the outside lobes down. That being said, nice smooth send. That route looks really fun.
Remember "send or whip!"
I would trade better contact with the rock over always having the wider lobes down any day. Gunks rock especially can have a lot of weird bumps and grooves, so if you can get good contact just clip it and keep moving
@@craigchammings6580
Craig Chammings, more like Craig Cammings.
start can feel a little weird, but I've actually seen someone place a grey Metolious in the horizontal at the bottom and it held a fall, or just suck it up and stick the move
your top ropers clear out the pro right?
Sweet video. That was a looong pitch! I want to get into trad climbing but the amount of gear needed is not to be taken lightly. Great climbing!
How come he can stand on the cliff with both hands off?
That's an a long pitch to be lowering off. It's gotta be about 150 feet total, combining the first and second pitches. You would have to tie a second rope but then you would have the knot getting hung in the protection.
amateur question here, so when you placed pro you used a second carabiner to connect to your rope .why?
When I started, I used to carry a single biner per runner so having two isn't necessary but doing so comes with some advantages:
1. You have the option to keep your runners in the alpine draw configuration. Otherwise, you would have to sling them over your shoulder.
2. When placing passive pro (nuts, hexes, etc.) or clipping into hardpoints like pitons or bolts, you need would need to use a draw to connect the runner. Having two biners available means you're not chewing through draws (and you don't have to carry as many with you).
I suppose you could make the argument that carrying less biners saves some weight but in my opinion, two biners per runner is worth it.
He’s right. More advantages in alpine config and clipping directly to the dog bone is solid.
Gunks anchors/chains...uuuuugly! Lol.
DONDE ESTA!?
abaightabuuu...Casa de tu Madre
nice shiny #1....
can you use a 60 to link those pitches?
If your intent is to go to the top of the cliff, a 60 would probably be fine, but I'm fairly positive you wouldn't be able to lower someone back to the ground with a 60 (as I did in the video).
This looks way harder than 5.8.
that first piton looked heinous - good job
Hey FirstPersonBeta, why do you always put long leaders on your pro when you are climbing a straight line?? You do know that you only do that if you are climbing on a zig zag route right? Oh and by the way when you put a friend in a horizontal crack you run the risk of snapping the shaft if you take a fall. Just some friendly advise young padawan.
I went to the gunks once and it sucked. Where are all the bolts? Have people not climbed there yet?
Your joking right?! Lol
Lol!
too many horizontal cam placements when this route could have been climbed solely with wired nuts alone- horizontal cams are one of the most common placements to fail - in testing a well placed stopper will withstand a far greater load factor than a small to medium horizontal cam - in my opinion the guy bypassed so many bomber stopper placements.....but he did climb the route very smoothly and with zero problems I just would have made different choices with regard to pro....
I don't see you leading the climb. And if you did lead it with only nuts I'm sure some smartass on a youtube comment section would give you crap for not having a multi directional first piece of gear.
No one listen to this muppet. Those placements were totally fine. And there are a dozen different ways to protect this climb. We just watched one of them.
I agree that many many beautiful stopper placements were passed by.
Do you have any links to horizontal cam testing data you could share please?