Is it a "360" engine? I wouldn't attempt to put that vintage induction setup on a old, low compression truck motor. I wouldn't expect it to work unless totally gone thru and bolstered. It says "360". I know it'll bolt on, but good luck making it run
Ya that's a very good point. We did the stroke and tested as a 360. I don't think it's a truck engine would think my grandpa would do that since he parted out so many thunder birds galaxies Torinos ect. Ya i think a 4 barrel would do better
@Stucifer we might of did the measurements wrong. It's probably just a 352 which the compression would be less right? Ya if we were also to keep doing the tri power it probably be just a 2 barrel since don't have all the parts
Ya gotta try for warmer weather. Don't work then 4 barrel yay. If I get this tri power working it probably be just the middle one. Someone said it might be the cold. I just can't get the fuel go down the intake by itself. Thanks 😁
Ya thankfully the carburetor went apart esely. I put the rest of the rebuild kit in the gasket drawer. Tri power. Twice as hard as a normal one lol. I'll try one more time next week then probably do the 4 barrel swap
The power valve allows more fuel in the carburetor when there isn't much vacuum. If the engine is just running normal, vacuum is high and the power valve is closed. Once you open the throttle enough the vacuum starts to disappear and the power valve begins to open letting more fuel in. That spring in the power valve reacts to the vacuum level. The other diaphragm in your kit was the accelerator pump. It squirts a little gas based on throttle position no matter the vacuum. So one is mechanical and one is vacuum operated. I wonder if Thunderhead289 has any tips. He's a carb master LOL. Don't know if he has every dealt with tri-power though.
Hey partner here's a little trick for old engines that have been sitting (and especially the ones that have a bunch of miles and started with low compression. Ok, well i hate to tell you but you have the entire deck of cards stacked against you! You need a bunch of compression and i think you probably have some cylinder wall pitting, stuck or semi-stuck rings and started this with a particular engine that didn't have very much compression new. Ok, you need to mix some red ford type f auto transmission fluid about half and half with good fresh gas. Don't buy the Super unleaded but some regular w/o alcohol would be great. If you can't find alcohol free gas, get yourself a can of the premixed 50:1 chainsaw gas. It has a little oil that well ad the ATF to. Thankfully that premix is strong gas and doesn't have any alcohol!!! Ok, so years ago i worked in a junkyard installing used engines in customer cars. They all had usually been sitting in the car for some time. All the guys on the yard referred to a gas/atf mixture in a drink can as a 'Can of Compression'. When I was trying to get that first start after sitting in the yard, all the guys would be hollering, give it some compression!!! Its Your turn! Gas w/o alcohol 50:50 with Ford type F red ATF, We would pour 5 or 6 Tablespoons minimum in the Carb.. i would think about 3 tablespoons in the throttle blades of each of the carbs will be enough to get a couple of teaspoons into each cylinder.that mixture will loosen up the rings and seal up some cylinder pitting. It'll get enough things half-ass working to seal a few cylinders enough to build some compression and fire off strong. The motor should 'Bark' a few times and then hit enough cylinders to crank! You need to have the throttle blades cracked open so if there isnt linkage to one, just open the blades a little and stand a thin blade knife in it(like a kitchen knife). When it fires, crack the center carb (the one you're working with) open 1/3 a couple of times real quick. If she revs up, you won! Once she revs up one or two good times, you have broken the tings loose and scraped the cylinder wall clean. It's not perfect yet but she crank up each time for you now! And the more you run it, the easier she'll crank and run each time... Man, you got this. You're not doing anything wrong you just needed to be let in on the secret. Now, 'Give it Some Compression!' and crank that old Ford up! Take Care and ill be looking forward to seeing you get her running!
Ya when we took the heads off the cylinder walls look pretty good. I don't think any scoring or marks. I've been use e 87 i think. Which is 10% alcohol i think. I think we do have ford f atf. Thankfully we have a compression tester so it will help. Thanks so much for the information. It will be used quite often
She wants to go but its just too cold and your engine is like mine, they dont get started every day and sit idle espccially in winter . Dont be disappointed you will giter another day
Is it a "360" engine? I wouldn't attempt to put that vintage induction setup on a old, low compression truck motor. I wouldn't expect it to work unless totally gone thru and bolstered. It says "360". I know it'll bolt on, but good luck making it run
Ya that's a very good point. We did the stroke and tested as a 360. I don't think it's a truck engine would think my grandpa would do that since he parted out so many thunder birds galaxies Torinos ect. Ya i think a 4 barrel would do better
@@Tannerrebuilds I think the 360 was only available in trucks. Is it possible you have a 352? The 352 was common in Galaxies of the early 60s
@Stucifer we might of did the measurements wrong. It's probably just a 352 which the compression would be less right? Ya if we were also to keep doing the tri power it probably be just a 2 barrel since don't have all the parts
Tri power carbs can be a pain! Try filling all 3 float bowls
Ya the gaskets in the rest of em are shot sadly
Working on one carburetor is much more easier lol
@ yeah but I wonder if the intake has separate runners to the cylinders
@@ClassicCarRevivals ooh you could be right. But it doesn't seem like the gas is going down the intake from the carburetor
I feel your pain buddy! Lol
Haha 😂. It sure will be fun to drive though. Gonna see a 05 ford gt Monday. It's my dream car
@Tannerrebuilds You get that thing running and I'll make a trip up there to ride with you and your dad. Lol
Alright lol. Ya right when it turn warm out I'll swap thoes intakes and find a half decent carb lol. That would be awesome
You'll get it buddy,,good video Tanner 👍👍
Thank you 😁. Just gotta wait for warm weather lol
You did fine with it being so cold
Lol thanks :) gonna get colder lol
Dont give up. Youll get it!
Ya gotta try for warmer weather. Don't work then 4 barrel yay. If I get this tri power working it probably be just the middle one. Someone said it might be the cold. I just can't get the fuel go down the intake by itself. Thanks 😁
@Tannerrebuilds I had a Chevy with 3 deuces, they all leaked some because of the fuel pressure after was shut off. I swapped it out for a 4 bbl.
Ah yes leaky. Even though I put new gaskets in it leaked from the screw lol
@@Tannerrebuilds Is it a 360 engine?
@@Stucifer ya
Tanner save everything for now! Don't force anything loose. I'm gonna try to help you out here..save extra parts
Ya thankfully the carburetor went apart esely. I put the rest of the rebuild kit in the gasket drawer. Tri power. Twice as hard as a normal one lol. I'll try one more time next week then probably do the 4 barrel swap
The power valve allows more fuel in the carburetor when there isn't much vacuum. If the engine is just running normal, vacuum is high and the power valve is closed. Once you open the throttle enough the vacuum starts to disappear and the power valve begins to open letting more fuel in. That spring in the power valve reacts to the vacuum level. The other diaphragm in your kit was the accelerator pump. It squirts a little gas based on throttle position no matter the vacuum. So one is mechanical and one is vacuum operated. I wonder if Thunderhead289 has any tips. He's a carb master LOL. Don't know if he has every dealt with tri-power though.
@johnsarian_cu o that makes sense since the outer 2 carbs don't have any. I'm wondering since some holes are covered up it might be it dk
Old car engines have a tough time starting in extreme wheather especially with modern fuel. (you may have to wait for a good sunshiny day)
Oh ya forgot about that. Also we use the cheapest gas lol. Thanks for the reminder
Howdy. Can't give ya much advice on a tri power. I've never worked on one.
Howdy 😁. That's alright. Thinking of doing that 4 barrel. 3 carbs right now is a lot lol
@@TannerrebuildsI think that's what I'd do too.
More familiar lol
Hey partner here's a little trick for old engines that have been sitting (and especially the ones that have a bunch of miles and started with low compression.
Ok, well i hate to tell you but you have the entire deck of cards stacked against you! You need a bunch of compression and i think you probably have some cylinder wall pitting, stuck or semi-stuck rings and started this with a particular engine that didn't have very much compression new. Ok, you need to mix some red ford type f auto transmission fluid about half and half with good fresh gas. Don't buy the Super unleaded but some regular w/o alcohol would be great. If you can't find alcohol free gas, get yourself a can of the premixed 50:1 chainsaw gas. It has a little oil that well ad the ATF to. Thankfully that premix is strong gas and doesn't have any alcohol!!!
Ok, so years ago i worked in a junkyard installing used engines in customer cars. They all had usually been sitting in the car for some time. All the guys on the yard referred to a gas/atf mixture in a drink can as a 'Can of Compression'. When I was trying to get that first start after sitting in the yard, all the guys would be hollering, give it some compression!!!
Its Your turn! Gas w/o alcohol 50:50 with Ford type F red ATF, We would pour 5 or 6 Tablespoons minimum in the Carb.. i would think about 3 tablespoons in the throttle blades of each of the carbs will be enough to get a couple of teaspoons into each cylinder.that mixture will loosen up the rings and seal up some cylinder pitting. It'll get enough things half-ass working to seal a few cylinders enough to build some compression and fire off strong. The motor should 'Bark' a few times and then hit enough cylinders to crank! You need to have the throttle blades cracked open so if there isnt linkage to one, just open the blades a little and stand a thin blade knife in it(like a kitchen knife). When it fires, crack the center carb (the one you're working with) open 1/3 a couple of times real quick. If she revs up, you won! Once she revs up one or two good times, you have broken the tings loose and scraped the cylinder wall clean. It's not perfect yet but she crank up each time for you now! And the more you run it, the easier she'll crank and run each time... Man, you got this. You're not doing anything wrong you just needed to be let in on the secret. Now, 'Give it Some Compression!' and crank that old Ford up! Take Care and ill be looking forward to seeing you get her running!
Ya when we took the heads off the cylinder walls look pretty good. I don't think any scoring or marks. I've been use e 87 i think. Which is 10% alcohol i think. I think we do have ford f atf. Thankfully we have a compression tester so it will help. Thanks so much for the information. It will be used quite often
She wants to go but its just too cold and your engine is like mine, they dont get started every day and sit idle espccially in winter . Dont be disappointed you will giter another day
Thanks I needed this 😁. Wonder why the starter stop spinning
Dribble some gas in the carbs hold the throttle open a bit and crank.
That's a great idea ill try it next time thanks
Is your HEI loose? Does it have slack?
Ya i have it loose to try to get the right timing. Could that effect it?
@Tannerrebuilds No i meant after you tighten ...Then does it still have play? ...If so then it needs replaced
@Oriental825 i don't think it does. But thanks for the info so future cars i get i can do that