James, if you make the centreline as an actual centreline, Fusion will dimension against it as diameters and you don't need to do the dive by 2 thing, and you don't need to manually select the Axis in revolve :) It the button next to Construction line in the sketch pallette.
@@Clough42 yup :) it can be pretty useful, mainly for things that will be revolved, but sometimes for other things as well :) It's only dimensions that are snapped to the centerline that turns into diameter dimensions :)
@@JBLewis you're welcome :) The centerline acts like a normal line in that it will close up a contour, like you'd often want it to for a revolve, but that does make it less useful in other situations. These days I really only use it for revolved parts, which I don't do all that often :P
25:27 Even though it doesn't matter, it matters 😂 that should be on a tee-shirt. Btw your slightly isometric viewing angle of your sketch plane footage is perfect, it makes what you are showing, crystal clear 👍
Very useful tips and tricks in fusion. I find myself always trimming/breaking lines for aesthetics...and always breaking a bunch of constraints in the process. Seeing how you left all the full non-construction lines and it still 'just works' is genuinely really helpful. Other stuff like 'scale whole sketch' is extra handy. Bravo sir.
if you use the construction line as your midpoint you dont have to put in half the diameter for the dimension you can put in the full diamter and it will make it symmetric to that mid point, pretty useful and one less step to take.
@@oldfarthacksThe biggest problem I have is that Fusion has shortcuts to speed up your work (E for extrude, D for dimension) but on some dialogs the only way to click on the default button is by hitting it with the mouse instead of just hitting the Enter key
@@oldfarthackssame here, I worked with AutoCAD for ~17 years before switching to Fusion, and while I some times miss the keyboard shortcuts, since it got my Spacemouse Pro a CAD mouse compact I don't miss them 😁 anywhere near as mucg
@@Robinlarsson83 I consider the Spacemouse a Fusion essential. You can get by if you have a 3-button mouse so you can shift-middle-click to rotate, but it's not great.
I say it on every Fusion tutorial you post but damn it you always tech me some new trick whenever you put one of these videos out. I’m so glad I picked up the 3D printing hobby. Solving these kinds of problems with the little factory on my desk blows my mind every time.
At 8:40 if you click and drag the line off a circle the line will always stay tangent, your second selection on the next circle can also be tangent. this just saves you having to make the constraint after. handy tip
if you use a centre line then you don't need to half the dimension it will automatically give you a diameter dimension and would automatically select the centreline when you do the revolve
Could you have hollowed out the lip instead of making the cuts to the same effect if you wanted to maintain a seal, or is breaking up the circular lines what matters?
Great video. It's fun when a design is nailed first time, print once and done. It's also fun to go through iterations and get better and better. Both fun, just different types.
Gday James, that was brilliant, I do use fusion but I have a lot more learning to do, you really make it look easy and easy to follow along, thanks very much, cheers
You have made me jealous.I do not have a 3D printer and I am 75, not yet able to use the program you are using. Probably wont learn before I die. Like Mr Pete says, I'm waiting to take a dirt nap. However, I will continue as long as God gives me breath. I watch you and many others. Thanks for what you do, and share.
This was a very valuable project that gives new ideas and information. I really like that you gave information about the slicer settings, which you without doubt has been working quite a lot with to get it right. Also the info about the filament and choice of nozzle is of high value. In summarize this is what makes your RUclips channel so valuable to follow.
Awesome tutorial! I was able to follow it on Freecad with only a few changes to the workflow. Now I need to break out that flexible filament that I bought a while ago and give it a shot!
I made caps like this for my gasoline/diesel cans. But I have been struggling with flexible filament print quality. So was glad to see your settings which I will test on my Prusa. Thanks! 7/14/2024 addendum: Yes those settings worked well for me on my MK3S+ with a Diamondback nozzle. However a recent TPU print required a slight adjustment. I was making guide wheels for a riding lawn mower deck. They are a screw together rim (2 halves) and a TPU "tire". On the bed the tire tapers up and out at the outer edge at first as it prints. The edge was tending curl up, getting higher than the extruder nozzle as it went. Eventually this led to a failed print. So for this part I went to .25mm layer height and extrusion of 1.05. That solved the curling up at the edge. It is so nice to be able to print TPU parts for stuff. I think the Diamondback nozzle really helped. Print quality is excellent now.
I did follow through with this using the .4 diamond nozzle in a Prusa Mk3s+ and with the recommended settings. The filament I used was Overture TPU, black color. Just a few prints but all look fantastic. I was using a .6 hardened steel nozzle. Great for carbon fiber PLA, but not so great for TPU. (terrible actually) So again thanks for sharing your experience! It definitely helped me.
Wow! This is unrelated to the video's topic, but I just noticed the camera is slowly rotating, so a static scene background looks alive and more attractive. Cool feature!
Not only is your content great, thoughtful and through; but you have one of the cleanest and most sophisticated logos around. I'd give you a 9.2 on the OCD scale for q1uality of work too.
I agree with the machining vs 3d printing. My lathe has seen a lot of rest since I've obtained my 3d printer. Nice project and good results. I learned a few fusion tricks also.
7:10 everything is black doesn't mean it's fully constrained. Expand the sketches folder, and look for red lock icon the sketch you are working. If you see that lock it's fully constrained.
Its looks like a dust-cap of a aviation chassis connector, but nice work. One more question : How do you keep the dust-cap dust-free when you use this connection ? 🤔
Super impressed with that set up. I really struggle with printing this filament for some reason and will try some of these settings. Where did you purchase the nozzle?
Nice tip there about the scale sketch at first dimension setting! Btw, if you dimension from a line to a centerline, it automatically knows and allows you to enter the diameter without having to enter d/2. Also, SMC fittings are junk. Parker/Legris or Festo.
It's what Grainger had in stock the day I realized I didn't have what I needed, and it's been working fine for me. Though to be fair, I buy most of my pneumatics from Automation Direct, and I suspect opinions of their quality may be similar.
@@Clough42 I have a possibly irrational beef with SMC. For hobbyist use, I’m sure they’re fine. At work, I troubleshoot, maintain, and create a lot of complex pneumatic circuits on Swiss aerosol filling equipment. The machine manufacturer, Pamasol, always shipped the machines with Parker/Legris and Serto fittings and we’ve always had a pretty consistent 10-15 years of reliability with each fitting in a harsh environment. Our plant recently started stocking SMC fittings and I’ve had issues such as gripping rings stop working on them after a very short amount of time but I’ve also seen them not fail for years. Just have a preference for Parker/Legris.
"It's twisted. It bothers me". Yep, anything like that tends too upset the karma. When I put electrical sockets (outlets) on, the screws have to be aligned vertically, just cannot do with the slots all over the place. Another nice little job James. I'm still considering a 3D printer and have the budget for a Bambu X1 Carbon, but still not sure if I should wait for something new from them or others. Anyone any suggestions?
Given how fussy you generally are with your finishing of parts and removing the twists etc i was fully expecting there to be one final iteration where you extended the lanyard so the loop was a nice symmetrical semi circle in its profile when fitted to the air connector. A novel idea though, well done!
I thought the same thing about 40 years ago. My solution was to hang pieces of rag over the female connectors. It works brilliantly and the bonus is theres always a rag in the right place for "needs". But your cap is beutiful, I instantly thought. Then you designed the integral lanyard. I am guessing you have stopped cooking on gas? I assume you have a Starship engine in your cooker.
Just what I needed to get settings for the first spool of TPU on my MK3S+, perfect timing, James! I've read that loosening the idler on the extruder was a good idea with TPU, did you get by fine without doing that?
Great exercise for surr but as an ex parker hannefin rep, arent these available from endless sources from dog doo amazon on up for like less than a bick a shot?
Did you know there is a centerline button next to the construction line button on the sketch palette? if you apply that to the centerline in a sketch you want to revolve, you can input diameter dimensions when you dimension to that centerline, it will also give that line priority when using the revolve command :)
I do lots of iterative design for 3d printing. Compensates for my lack of formal training in engineering by testing the physics of the object in real life. I then do real life testing for endurance, fit and function till my design is good enough
one question I ask everyone who doesn't use the centerline line when doing rotary part using revolve Why don't you use the centerline line to then just dimension the diameter without thinking about having to divide it by 2 to get the radius? Because no matter how careful you are you will forget and you will make the radius double the size and if you don't catch it because you are tired or have a lot of features and miss that one, you'll scrap the part even before you made it
Because I didn't know about it. You see all the comments from people who learn something from every one of my Fusion videos. I learn something new in the comments on just about every video, too.
I watched the first minute, than rewound to take a look at the manifold inlay screenshot and WOAH there's a really slow camera pan from right to left?!
Seems the slow pan exists even into the other segments. It's a slow back and forth which is really cool as you get to see the item from different directions without realizing it or having to deal with jarring camera moves or being frustrated that the camera is locked off. Very cool.
Yeah, I discovered those after I finished my design. The one idea I saw in those that I want to steal is the keyhole-shaped opening in the lanyard to make it easier to get over the connector.
You now need a dust cap for your dust cap! When you have that new cap loose when you're using the port, chips and dirt could possibly collect inside it! OCD people unite! 🤣
Hi James, It is not done! If you can do it - you can over do it. Hollow out the center plug and make a seal ring on it so it wil "satisfyingly" pop whe pulled out 😁
And it's only after printing just enough to fit out the shop and using the last of the TPU on hand you start going around and discover that you have 3 different models of the quick connect in the shop, and none of them have the same outer dimensions as the 4th on the back of the mill that you designed off of has. :-) (Yeah, done things like that too.) It is nice that a model works as envisioned, and isn't a 6 month project to complete too.
@@Clough42 Probably the HF common source. I've picked up quick connects and hose ends for quick connects from HF, Menards, Home Depot, and Millica Unclaimed Freight (Something like Harbor Freight, but not as selective about what they carry, everything from Toelson brand tools through crafting supplies and clothing, on up to some cast iron surface table saws (don't ask me if they are actually cabinet saws or not, I haven't looked that close. But they are on my way to my retiring place, so I occasionally shop there. And yes, that means I have a collection of mix and match. It mostly works together though. It's not like I'm trying to attach a 3/4 hose quick connect to a half inch hose end...Thanks for the video.
The first time I saw the background object moving back and forth it was *really* distracting, but then my brain locked onto what it was doing for the subject image, and I ended up liking the effect!
And even though I use Fusion 360 on a daily basis, there are always one or two new things that I pick up from your tuturials. One thing I do, is to use the diameter dimension on revolving extrusions. So instead of typing 21.8/2 I use the diameter dimension feature. Hit D for dimension, first click the center line, then the item you want to dimension and then right click and select "diameter dimension". Yes, that takes more time and actions but coming back to an old design I now immediately know this is a diameter dimension (or something that is later being mirrored) and I don't have to click on the dimension to see it is a /2 measurement
Finally! ...I've been practicing Fusion 360 and making good progress. Watched the video and can actually follow what was going on. In fact, most of the way through, I was actually predicting what you were going to be doing next. Of course I learned a lot from you today also. For the last month, I've been designing more and more in fusion and less and less in SolidWorks, getting to like it a lot.😂
It boggles my mind that fusion has no select behind/through hotkeys. Other 3d/cad programs I have used have this and it makes selections so much easier.
Rapid prototyping will always be the first choice. At the current prices of printers, they are affordable worldwide. So too the model sharing. Imagine first world designs being printed in 3rd world village thru a cell phone wifi'd to a village's printer. That's a new world order the world can get behind.
I've 3D printed countless functional parts from electronics cases to antenna mounts, latches, jigs, cowels, rails, handles and so forth... but one of the coolest use cases is iterative designs for fitment and refinement prior to machining the final part. I live on a boat in the summer and have spent years working on it. Absolutely nothing is at a right angle; everything is compound and complicated. Lately I've been milling replacement woodwork out of teak, and 3D printing test pieces before sending the (inverted) job to my CNC machine has cut my failure rate down to pretty much zero. Which is nice.. because teak is expensive. :)
@@Clough42 Maybe only one slow pan in a single direction? Or maybe a slow ramp up/down and not a jarring reverse? It doesn't bother me at all but if it has a back and forth with a sharp reversal it'll make people uneasy. I would definitely like to see you play around with it a bit more. It kinda turns a 2D video into 3D which could be very useful to give us viewers a better idea of the relative dimensions of what we're looking at.
@@technobabble_ Part of the issue was that I didn't realize I had lens (and body) stabilization turned on in the camera, and it was trying to compensate when the slider changed speed, resulting in a really weird lurch.
James, if you make the centreline as an actual centreline, Fusion will dimension against it as diameters and you don't need to do the dive by 2 thing, and you don't need to manually select the Axis in revolve :)
It the button next to Construction line in the sketch pallette.
Really? Thanks! I hadn't noticed that. I learn more from making tutorial videos that I think people do watching them.
I'd been wondering what made the "centerline" style special! That's fantastic. Thanks for haring!
Holy crap that's super useful
@@Clough42 yup :) it can be pretty useful, mainly for things that will be revolved, but sometimes for other things as well :)
It's only dimensions that are snapped to the centerline that turns into diameter dimensions :)
@@JBLewis you're welcome :) The centerline acts like a normal line in that it will close up a contour, like you'd often want it to for a revolve, but that does make it less useful in other situations.
These days I really only use it for revolved parts, which I don't do all that often :P
25:27 Even though it doesn't matter, it matters 😂 that should be on a tee-shirt. Btw your slightly isometric viewing angle of your sketch plane footage is perfect, it makes what you are showing, crystal clear 👍
i’d buy that
You just have to love how rapid prototyping just gets easier while getting better.
Very useful tips and tricks in fusion. I find myself always trimming/breaking lines for aesthetics...and always breaking a bunch of constraints in the process. Seeing how you left all the full non-construction lines and it still 'just works' is genuinely really helpful.
Other stuff like 'scale whole sketch' is extra handy. Bravo sir.
I have to echo some of the other comments. our Fusion 360 skills are impressive. I learn something every time I watch one of your videos.
3D printing has been a tectonic shift in home manufacture, combine that with a little time invested in CAD and the possibilities are endless;.
if you use the construction line as your midpoint you dont have to put in half the diameter for the dimension you can put in the full diamter and it will make it symmetric to that mid point, pretty useful and one less step to take.
your mastery of fusion is unreal.
All in practice. I myself wish that Fusion 360 could be run by only using the keyboard, I am an old AutoCad guy and am actually faster that way.
@@oldfarthacksThe biggest problem I have is that Fusion has shortcuts to speed up your work (E for extrude, D for dimension) but on some dialogs the only way to click on the default button is by hitting it with the mouse instead of just hitting the Enter key
@@Rob_65 They should sort that out.
@@oldfarthackssame here, I worked with AutoCAD for ~17 years before switching to Fusion, and while I some times miss the keyboard shortcuts, since it got my Spacemouse Pro a CAD mouse compact I don't miss them 😁 anywhere near as mucg
@@Robinlarsson83 I consider the Spacemouse a Fusion essential. You can get by if you have a 3-button mouse so you can shift-middle-click to rotate, but it's not great.
I say it on every Fusion tutorial you post but damn it you always tech me some new trick whenever you put one of these videos out.
I’m so glad I picked up the 3D printing hobby. Solving these kinds of problems with the little factory on my desk blows my mind every time.
It really is amazing the technology the average person has available nowadays to produce parts like these with such efficiency and ease.
Beware, James has a bazillion hours learning how to make this look easy.....
At 8:40 if you click and drag the line off a circle the line will always stay tangent, your second selection on the next circle can also be tangent. this just saves you having to make the constraint after. handy tip
Oh, that's brilliant! That's the second super useful tip I've picked up from the comments on this video.
Very handy for making tangent connections just like in your video :)
if you use a centre line then you don't need to half the dimension it will automatically give you a diameter dimension and would automatically select the centreline when you do the revolve
Fourth comment on this today. I learn something new on every video.
Learned a few new Fusion tricks from this one. I do the same thing iterating. Thanks for sharing!
Could you have hollowed out the lip instead of making the cuts to the same effect if you wanted to maintain a seal, or is breaking up the circular lines what matters?
In my case, I was specifically trying to break the circular lines. I'm sure there are many solutions.
Great video. It's fun when a design is nailed first time, print once and done. It's also fun to go through iterations and get better and better. Both fun, just different types.
Gday James, that was brilliant, I do use fusion but I have a lot more learning to do, you really make it look easy and easy to follow along, thanks very much, cheers
You have made me jealous.I do not have a 3D printer and I am 75, not yet able to use the program you are using. Probably wont learn before I die. Like Mr Pete says, I'm waiting to take a dirt nap. However, I will continue as long as God gives me breath.
I watch you and many others. Thanks for what you do, and share.
If you keep moving, it makes it a lot harder for them to put you in a box.
Always a pleasure and educational to watch.
This was a very valuable project that gives new ideas and information. I really like that you gave information about the slicer settings, which you without doubt has been working quite a lot with to get it right. Also the info about the filament and choice of nozzle is of high value. In summarize this is what makes your RUclips channel so valuable to follow.
Awesome tutorial! I was able to follow it on Freecad with only a few changes to the workflow. Now I need to break out that flexible filament that I bought a while ago and give it a shot!
I made caps like this for my gasoline/diesel cans. But I have been struggling with flexible filament print quality. So was glad to see your settings which I will test on my Prusa. Thanks!
7/14/2024 addendum: Yes those settings worked well for me on my MK3S+ with a Diamondback nozzle. However a recent TPU print required a slight adjustment. I was making guide wheels for a riding lawn mower deck. They are a screw together rim (2 halves) and a TPU "tire". On the bed the tire tapers up and out at the outer edge at first as it prints. The edge was tending curl up, getting higher than the extruder nozzle as it went. Eventually this led to a failed print. So for this part I went to .25mm layer height and extrusion of 1.05. That solved the curling up at the edge. It is so nice to be able to print TPU parts for stuff. I think the Diamondback nozzle really helped. Print quality is excellent now.
I did follow through with this using the .4 diamond nozzle in a Prusa Mk3s+ and with the recommended settings. The filament I used was Overture TPU, black color. Just a few prints but all look fantastic. I was using a .6 hardened steel nozzle. Great for carbon fiber PLA, but not so great for TPU. (terrible actually) So again thanks for sharing your experience! It definitely helped me.
Very Cool project! Your CAD abilities are insane!
I use the 'rollback' feature a lot when modeling revolves/mirrors. It allows you to add features to the item you're mirroring.
Wow! This is unrelated to the video's topic, but I just noticed the camera is slowly rotating, so a static scene background looks alive and more attractive. Cool feature!
Excellent vid, and I picked up a couple of very useful Fusion tips! Inspired to get going on my SMW Fusion course again...!👍😊
Not only is your content great, thoughtful and through; but you have one of the cleanest and most sophisticated logos around. I'd give you a 9.2 on the OCD scale for q1uality of work too.
I agree with the machining vs 3d printing. My lathe has seen a lot of rest since I've obtained my 3d printer. Nice project and good results. I learned a few fusion tricks also.
I love your Fusion 360 videos! You didn't disappoint on this one!
I designed/printed something extremely similar for a water bottle recently. Very satisfying little project!
7:10 everything is black doesn't mean it's fully constrained. Expand the sketches folder, and look for red lock icon the sketch you are working. If you see that lock it's fully constrained.
Its looks like a dust-cap of a aviation chassis connector, but nice work. One more question : How do you keep the dust-cap dust-free when you use this connection ? 🤔
Your comedic timing in the intro is perfect.
I'm with you on designing and solving problems with 3d printing, I do it too, lot of fun
Super impressed with that set up. I really struggle with printing this filament for some reason and will try some of these settings. Where did you purchase the nozzle?
Nice tip there about the scale sketch at first dimension setting!
Btw, if you dimension from a line to a centerline, it automatically knows and allows you to enter the diameter without having to enter d/2.
Also, SMC fittings are junk. Parker/Legris or Festo.
It's what Grainger had in stock the day I realized I didn't have what I needed, and it's been working fine for me. Though to be fair, I buy most of my pneumatics from Automation Direct, and I suspect opinions of their quality may be similar.
@@Clough42 I have a possibly irrational beef with SMC. For hobbyist use, I’m sure they’re fine. At work, I troubleshoot, maintain, and create a lot of complex pneumatic circuits on Swiss aerosol filling equipment. The machine manufacturer, Pamasol, always shipped the machines with Parker/Legris and Serto fittings and we’ve always had a pretty consistent 10-15 years of reliability with each fitting in a harsh environment. Our plant recently started stocking SMC fittings and I’ve had issues such as gripping rings stop working on them after a very short amount of time but I’ve also seen them not fail for years. Just have a preference for Parker/Legris.
"It's twisted. It bothers me". Yep, anything like that tends too upset the karma. When I put electrical sockets (outlets) on, the screws have to be aligned vertically, just cannot do with the slots all over the place.
Another nice little job James. I'm still considering a 3D printer and have the budget for a Bambu X1 Carbon, but still not sure if I should wait for something new from them or others. Anyone any suggestions?
glad i watched this i didnt know you could long click to select he profile sketch. I've been turning on and off bodies to get to them.
Another fusion lesson that this old man will never master ... Thanks for the lesson anyway... I enjoy your mastery of fusion....
You make it look so easy
It's just time and practice. When I started out, I didn't know what I was doing, and it was a very frustrating experience.
Given how fussy you generally are with your finishing of parts and removing the twists etc i was fully expecting there to be one final iteration where you extended the lanyard so the loop was a nice symmetrical semi circle in its profile when fitted to the air connector. A novel idea though, well done!
Ha! I did spend a lot of time getting the cord under my wall-mounted TV to hang exactly how I wanted it. :)
I thought the same thing about 40 years ago.
My solution was to hang pieces of rag over the female connectors.
It works brilliantly and the bonus is theres always a rag in the right place for "needs".
But your cap is beutiful, I instantly thought.
Then you designed the integral lanyard.
I am guessing you have stopped cooking on gas?
I assume you have a Starship engine in your cooker.
I really enjoy all your content. I wish I was as good at fusion as you. Did you go to school for CAD, or just practice?
love your way of thinking thro.
I love that red TPU! Will it print without that $95 nozzle?
Just what I needed to get settings for the first spool of TPU on my MK3S+, perfect timing, James! I've read that loosening the idler on the extruder was a good idea with TPU, did you get by fine without doing that?
at 25:25 “Let’s go ahead and put it on permanently” 😂😂 i thought to myself my luck is i would put it on backwards
Great exercise for surr but as an ex parker hannefin rep, arent these available from endless sources from dog doo amazon on up for like less than a bick a shot?
Where's the fun in that?
Thaty was a very nice project.
Did you know there is a centerline button next to the construction line button on the sketch palette?
if you apply that to the centerline in a sketch you want to revolve, you can input diameter dimensions when you dimension to that centerline, it will also give that line priority when using the revolve command :)
Was your camera on a motorized slide for those close up shoots?
Metal bead chain works well.
I just love this project :)
You should consider teaching at a community college- you're an excellent instructor, James!
I have said it before I will say it again. You are a fusion 360 God..🤩
I do lots of iterative design for 3d printing. Compensates for my lack of formal training in engineering by testing the physics of the object in real life. I then do real life testing for endurance, fit and function till my design is good enough
Excellent
Robert
one question I ask everyone who doesn't use the centerline line when doing rotary part using revolve
Why don't you use the centerline line to then just dimension the diameter without thinking about having to divide it by 2 to get the radius?
Because no matter how careful you are you will forget and you will make the radius double the size and if you don't catch it because you are tired or have a lot of features and miss that one, you'll scrap the part even before you made it
Because I didn't know about it. You see all the comments from people who learn something from every one of my Fusion videos. I learn something new in the comments on just about every video, too.
I like this style of video
AWESOME
Not OCD at all!! I'm the same way, there is only one right way...
I knew from the beginning there will be multiple iterations, even if V1.0 was quite OK. 🙂 Been following this channel long enough to know...
Great content
good job
I watched the first minute, than rewound to take a look at the manifold inlay screenshot and WOAH there's a really slow camera pan from right to left?!
Seems the slow pan exists even into the other segments. It's a slow back and forth which is really cool as you get to see the item from different directions without realizing it or having to deal with jarring camera moves or being frustrated that the camera is locked off. Very cool.
I'm experimenting. Right now I'd still consider it a cool trick, and not something I've really learned how to use effectively. We'll see.
The first thing that came to my mind when you said what your objective was, I thought of caps for hydraulic couplers
Yeah, I discovered those after I finished my design. The one idea I saw in those that I want to steal is the keyhole-shaped opening in the lanyard to make it easier to get over the connector.
You now need a dust cap for your dust cap! When you have that new cap loose when you're using the port, chips and dirt could possibly collect inside it! OCD people unite! 🤣
Hi James,
It is not done! If you can do it - you can over do it.
Hollow out the center plug and make a seal ring on it so it wil "satisfyingly" pop whe pulled out 😁
And it's only after printing just enough to fit out the shop and using the last of the TPU on hand you start going around and discover that you have 3 different models of the quick connect in the shop, and none of them have the same outer dimensions as the 4th on the back of the mill that you designed off of has. :-) (Yeah, done things like that too.) It is nice that a model works as envisioned, and isn't a 6 month project to complete too.
Mine all fit. Maybe because I got lucky. Or maybe because they all came from Harbor Freight.
@@Clough42 Probably the HF common source. I've picked up quick connects and hose ends for quick connects from HF, Menards, Home Depot, and Millica Unclaimed Freight (Something like Harbor Freight, but not as selective about what they carry, everything from Toelson brand tools through crafting supplies and clothing, on up to some cast iron surface table saws (don't ask me if they are actually cabinet saws or not, I haven't looked that close. But they are on my way to my retiring place, so I occasionally shop there. And yes, that means I have a collection of mix and match. It mostly works together though. It's not like I'm trying to attach a 3/4 hose quick connect to a half inch hose end...Thanks for the video.
What button did you use to select through a body?
Hold left mouse button
Good intro 👍
Really like the slow dolly camera movements.
The first time I saw the background object moving back and forth it was *really* distracting, but then my brain locked onto what it was doing for the subject image, and I ended up liking the effect!
I envy your expertise with Fu360. That was a good idea carried out perfectly. Thanks for the video keep on keepiing on.
16:52 Now you will need a cap for the cap that is hanging for months collecting chips inside 😅
But that cap will fill up with chips, if the first cap is capping up the outlet, unless it is made to be a plug
And even though I use Fusion 360 on a daily basis, there are always one or two new things that I pick up from your tuturials.
One thing I do, is to use the diameter dimension on revolving extrusions. So instead of typing 21.8/2 I use the diameter dimension feature. Hit D for dimension, first click the center line, then the item you want to dimension and then right click and select "diameter dimension".
Yes, that takes more time and actions but coming back to an old design I now immediately know this is a diameter dimension (or something that is later being mirrored) and I don't have to click on the dimension to see it is a /2 measurement
i like how you talk to crowd without an crowd. -"yes yes i know it doesn't matter but it bothers me"
Print some stops for your camera tripod! It was moving around on you. 😉
Finally! ...I've been practicing Fusion 360 and making good progress. Watched the video and can actually follow what was going on. In fact, most of the way through, I was actually predicting what you were going to be doing next. Of course I learned a lot from you today also. For the last month, I've been designing more and more in fusion and less and less in SolidWorks, getting to like it a lot.😂
Glad I’m not the only one that has OCD on if it’s rolled or not. I’d fiddle with it an hour if I had to, to get it without a roll in it.
When the dust cover is off, it will fill with chips and oil. I think the dust cover needs a dust cover.
It boggles my mind that fusion has no select behind/through hotkeys. Other 3d/cad programs I have used have this and it makes selections so much easier.
New slider huh ☺️
The panning shots look great! New toy?
Comrade Clough, the people's republic of China would like to thank your generous contribution to our R&D.
One thing you can do is make the revolve line a center line and the diminsions will work better. there will be no need for the /2.
I like it James. Got an extra? :-).
Rapid prototyping will always be the first choice. At the current prices of printers, they are affordable worldwide. So too the model sharing. Imagine first world designs being printed in 3rd world village thru a cell phone wifi'd to a village's printer. That's a new world order the world can get behind.
Captain to Enterprise, "Enterprise here", Scotty, CLOSE THE PORTS!
I've 3D printed countless functional parts from electronics cases to antenna mounts, latches, jigs, cowels, rails, handles and so forth... but one of the coolest use cases is iterative designs for fitment and refinement prior to machining the final part.
I live on a boat in the summer and have spent years working on it. Absolutely nothing is at a right angle; everything is compound and complicated. Lately I've been milling replacement woodwork out of teak, and 3D printing test pieces before sending the (inverted) job to my CNC machine has cut my failure rate down to pretty much zero. Which is nice.. because teak is expensive. :)
I like it when you make things.
0:06 Me too, dude. :(
This youtube ***machining*** channel is my favorie ***3d printing*** channel. Oh wait.....well....that's awkward.
I will loose sleep tonight if you had left that twist. Excellent job, one more thing to use my 3d printer for my machines.
That’s what I like the most about 3D printing. 1st try, 2nd try, 3rd try, etc and finally just what I wanted.
all good...95 something or other
Could do with a cover for the cap when it's pulled off the connector 🤣
FYI, there is medication you can take for that little problem you have at the beginning of the video. LOL!
Homemade 'caplugs' :D
Not gonna lie, the suuuuuper slow camera pan makes me feel a little bit sick after more than 30 seconds
I'm playing with some things. I'm not totally happy with the results yet.
@@Clough42 Maybe only one slow pan in a single direction? Or maybe a slow ramp up/down and not a jarring reverse? It doesn't bother me at all but if it has a back and forth with a sharp reversal it'll make people uneasy. I would definitely like to see you play around with it a bit more. It kinda turns a 2D video into 3D which could be very useful to give us viewers a better idea of the relative dimensions of what we're looking at.
@@technobabble_ Part of the issue was that I didn't realize I had lens (and body) stabilization turned on in the camera, and it was trying to compensate when the slider changed speed, resulting in a really weird lurch.
matias wandel will find a way to make this out of plywood
Pretty involved solution when a ziploc and a zip tie would do, but the process is of course much more widely applicable.
He doesen't "need" one single machine in his workshop.