Please, make update to a video. I regularly doing silicone moldings and i must say, my silicone parts that i made flammable. Not just charring or something, it burns in flames, bright and hot. So please, don't do this silicone hotend sock, unless you know what exactly your silicone is.
You are a very talented and intelligent young man, Stephan; I'm sure glad you didn't quit after your second video bombed! It would have been a great loss to the 3D printing community!
No kidding! At first I was thinking that he should use a vacuum chamber to degas the silicone, but the syringe makes a perfectly capable vacuum itself.
This makes so many cool things possible. You don't need to print with flexible material to get flexible parts, you can print a mold using normal material and use this trick to make heat resistant flexible parts. I think this video just pushed me over the edge into actually ordering a 3D printer.
@@KieranShort Not just solid or flexible parts. I've printed a mold and used it to form an air mold. (kidding aside, I really liked this video and thought your comment about making something out of concrete was cool...what was it? I just wanted to add a tongue in cheek take of molding something unusual along with the more serious question about what you made out of concrete.)
If your medium is temperature-resistant (and you only need one or two) you don't even have to build multipart molds. Just print in PLA, fill the mold, and melt it away with a heat gun.
Yes but it needs a very little amount so it doesn't spill into the mold cavity. I use botox syringes to apply it. You can dilute the vaseline with mineral spirits to get a better paste to work with.
Using 91/99% IPA: Put any amount, say 6-12 OZ. in a capable bottle (CLEAN soda bottle works well), put in about 1 Once or more of vaseline, shake well let rest 5 minutes and shake WELL again (maybe use a 100*F water bath) let cool to room temp. Excess will fall out of solution and collect at bottom. Pour this mold release (not the stuff that fell out of solution) into a fine mist sprayer (with new label of course) and spray away, coat all surfaces well, you can't really overspray this unless you really try... Let air dry till the IPA has evaporated completely. In 5 years making vacuum molds for signs I've never had a failure and it also takes away any moisture the mold may have absorbed and is almost completely invisible in the finished product. Hint: Don't use it thinking you can fill voids with it - just the thinest of compleat films is what you are after.
I did something similar with a 2 part PLA mold but I used an acrylic glue called Genii Quartz to smooth out the 3d print layer striations before casting.
I suspect some simple finishing process either sanding down the mold or applying something that could act like bondo putty for plastics might allow someone to make a 3d printed mold smoother if they desired. I started down the path of making my own silicone mold but got distracted by something else. I'm glad you persevered where I didn't. It's really neat to see someone do this. I have a different heat block, so I'm more likely to pick it back up and utilize things I learned from your design in the strength and separation aspects of your mold. That helps a lot!
This mold is freaking fantastic. I am using Permatex Hi Temp 81160. This is such a better sock than the commercially available ones that a comparison isn't even really fair.
GEEZ. wow. You make some of the best videos. THIS was perfect for something I'm looking into doing. Now, I just need to learn F360 more, and try this!! THANK YOU ! ! !
If you mix in a small, wide mouthed mason jar and attach a fermentation lid with a hand pump vacuum, you could probably remove the bubbles before you get to the syringe.
All the problems about silicone bubbles pop away at 13:18 without spending $100+ for vacuum chamber and pump, and this might just works for the very important first layer that hits the most detail of any of one's moldmaking project, to be bubble-free. wow, much thanks!
I've actually had far more success using the "pro" version of e3d's sock with the tiny hole for the end of the nozzle as compared to the second, more open design. For whatever reason I ended up having material stick to the exposed nozzle and glob up pretty frequently. The more covered design completely eliminated that problem for me. Your custom sock design looks really good though. I really like the tighter fitment as compared to e3d's version. I'll be giving this a try as soon as I get the parts in :)
I actually bought the thin hole version first and it didn't work well for me - the sock just didn't seem to fit well. The one with the larger hole fits better and lasted a lot longer...
Excellent video! Would like to see more of this in the future. In Fusion, you can use the boundary fill to figure out the volume of something which would give you an idea of how much silicone you would need to use.
Wow, this is an awesome idea! I have started using a tusk design on a print cooler. You gave me an idea to incorporate the tusk (tubes) partly in the sock. Either just to give the tusks more room or even help holding them in place. I could even make a silicon fan "shroud" to connect the tusks to the fan.
I've been using high temp silicone adhesive from the hardware store for wood stoves, ovens and stuff to create my sock. Has been working fine for over a year with temps up to 240 C. Way easier to get rid of the bubbles though with liquid two component silicone, that's for sure.
This could be a perfect solution for me, it's been impossible to find new replacement rubber parts for the weird trucks on my 15yr old longboard for at least a decade, custom molded parts were too expensive for me but this could be ideal...
Little tip: If you want to get rid of the layer lines, melt some beeswax and quickly dip the mold in it before injecting the silicone. If you do it quickly enough, the wax will fill the tiny gaps without disturbing the dimensional accuracy of the mold.
I came up with something similar when my sock was getting a bit worn out. i used a top and bottom half with one die in the centre. i printed the bottom half with m5 threads and the top had some indents for the m5 screws to sit flush in. mine largely worked but i wasn't using the right silicone. i was using an old tube of tiling silicone that was just going bad in the cupboard. it worked but it was much too soft. i just squeezed the silicone into the two halves. stuck the die in and tightened the halves down. the excess squeezed out through the weep holes i had in the sides. mine worked but the choice of silicone was wrong. at 3 for $10 though i gave up and just bought the premade socks. my design was free and quicker than the post. but i'm not buying half a kilo of silicone to make 2-3 socks if i needed a new one every print it might be worthwhile. but these things already last forever usually only degrading if you end up with eruptions like the start of the video
A question: 15:09 when you cut the place where the cables are passing: wouldn't be enough just to cut open with one cut the material over that hole? The whole thing is very flexible so I suppose one could still be able to pass it beyond that wires. But maybe that missing little part that you cut away is not important, I don't know.
I made volcano molds before e3d ones came out. I don't feel the need to make my own now as the e3d volcano socks stay on with no issue, and the new version of the standard block don't have a problem of staying put either. I find the castable silicone disintegrates much quicker than the stuff e3d uses. I was only able to get about 2-3 weeks out of the homemade socks before the silicone started to crumble and disintegrate -- and yes I used the high heat stuff -- rated for 370c for prolonged exposure and over 450c for short exposure
E3Ds volcano socks are great and I never had a problem with those. Just cast one for for increasing my sample size. I've been using mine for quite a while even with PC that is printed at 270°C and they are still as flexible as on their first day.
Fantastic idea, good explanation as always. I think that only thumbs down comes from a Chinese manufacturer of these aftermarket socks :D They feel like loosing market because of your video :D
You could smooth out the mold with some polyurethane before casting, but honestly for this I like the layer lines, makes people question if you printed with silicone :D LOVIT
Love the idea thx for fusion design..there is some trick to get no bubble with silicone ,fill the syringe from high distance to create a very fine thread then buble will die before fill up
I think such a silicone mold could be used to produce DIY "injection molded" parts if the parts are small and the numbers are reasonably small. Like you said they can withstand the temps and are plyant so de molding will work even if it is not expertly designed. Off course you need a containment vessel for the silicone mold so it wont deform under a bit of pressure. It can also be used to cast resins a lot easier than that.
I wonder, since silicone can resist 300 C, if you could 3D print a part, make a silicone mold around it, and then pour molten PLA or ABS in the silicone mold... thus getting a much stronger part (and making it very easy to replicate it quickly). The mold itself would probably need to be heated, but for smaller parts it shouldn't be a problem, and a kitchen oven should be good enough
Did you think of using the real aluminium block in the center for the mold? This way you can do a cast in place and you wouldn't even have to put it on because it is on. Tighter fit!
Silicone rubber does not stick to anything but itself. So even if you cast it in place it will come loose. Making the mold fit the block precisely might be a difficult chore..
@@jimbit22 Of course it doesn't stick. The main reason is so that you don't have to stretch the silicon mold and you don't have to make it so that you can replace it. It will be a much tighter fit and will allow for more coverage since you don't have to plan gaps in order to take it off. This can be designed in such a way that you can even switch nozzles without having to remove the silicone sock :)
@@MarinusMakesStuff from experience, because there's no tolerance between the parts it will be a pain to re install the sock if it's 100% fit. Sometimes the master slips on me when making 2+ part silicone molds and it never goes into place again without distorting the mold. Having said that i can't be 100% sure that it won't work..
Off topic, the CNC logo on the sock looks like WH Smith's 80s logo. Nice to be reminded off the place, the staff were so cool. I'd spend a good hour reading computer magazines, they never even looked at me! Of course soon as I could afford it I bought the mags from them. Here it is! en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/WHSmith#/media/File%3AWHSmith1.png
I prefer the first silicone sock version from E3D. It keeps my nozzle clean. My heatbrake has leaked twice (fixed), but luckily didn't create a blob of doom
Silicone socks are amazing! I made mine from a different design before this and no more throwing heatbreaks out cause they're unusable (too much gunk makes it hard to unscrew stuff. I use less than 1$ chinese clones ofc :P) it's so nice to always have a shiny beautiful heatbreak! not to mention the help with stringing etc. also the burnt plastic fumes can be toxic and all too I just wish the heater block screw was covered since that doesn't seem to harm anything really. and I just wish it covered the nozzle A Liiiiiiiiiittttttlemore to the tip! but I love this regardless
That is awesome, I have to add this to my toolbox of techniques. One of the most useful materials I have for functional parts is TPU / TPE, but it can be a pain to print with on a stock MK3. This approach should be much faster (one of my recent projects was rubber feet for garden furniture to stop them damaging a wooden deck - 20 parts took a few days to print because TPE has to be printed so slowly). I especially like the trick of using the syringe to create a vacuum to degas the silicone, very elegent :)
Great project. But what makes me think like on other of my projects: what to to with the expensive material where you only use a few grams? Maybe print some molds for toys in the bedside table ;)
Stephan, thanks so much for your content. I really appreciate your time and dedication to be as through as you are. I wonder if you do consider venturing into making heat resistant molds from 3D printing. Not only because it would be interesting exploring metal casting and lost “wax” techniques, but I am really interested in reusable molds that resist heat such as plastic injection molding, for instance. Could you print a negative mould with all the registers that then would be used to create the final heat resistant mold to be used in the final casting? What do you have to do with all the tolerances? Thanks again! Paulo
Brilliant video, and just in time, too! Thinking about making a few silicone socks with my own logo on it. Having a but of a problem though. When I update the sketch and extrusion on one side, it's all fine. Doing the same on the other side breaks the whole thing :( Still, thank you for the Fusion 360 file and a how-to! Much appreciated.
Great video, I have bad problems with my extruder not being able to maintain temperature when printing PETG, I will get a Silicone sock and see if it helps!
I'm going to need you to slow down from making and teaching us all this cool stuff. I'm practically going broke just watching your videos. Awesome Stuff!
Great tutorial! I've solved all of my problems with the (pro) silicone sock falling off with a bent paperclip that goes around the sock. The springiness of the clip keep it squeezing the sock in place and I can simply pinch the ends of the clip to release it from the block. Super easy and effectively $0
Have you considered using high temperature silicone sealant as used by plumbers & heating engineers? It’s a lot cheaper and easily sourced at a DIY store.
The E3D sock is probably designed as it is since industrial moulds are expensive, and it needs gaps on both sides for the cables for all the various printer configurations. A more enclosing design like this would still be fine for mass production actually, since you can manually cut the slots in afterwards. You even have the option of not cutting the sock at all and building the hotend around it. I guess they were going for ease of use and universal compatibility rather than rigidity, that said I've never had mine come off yet.
I actually dip my hot and in one layer of candle wax and then dip it in high temperature silicone until I get my preferred thickness and it makes a nice tight fitting sock for my hot end
If you use a thermal interface on your nozzle/heatblock, and heater cartridge (most importantly), you will never have to use a sock. You will not believe how much faster your hotend gets hot with a thermal interface- it's night and day. I use Deepcool Z5 thermal paste because it can go all the way to 300 degrees celsius. Just don't use it on your heat break.
Hey do you really need a Rasberry ? Arduino or a ESP8266 are for the most things enough. Tipp: Don't use a DHT sensor there are not relay reliable and there accuracy is also not the best. I recommend a BME280 there are relative cheap and definitely better.
I recently learned about github.com/rsta2/circle and needless to say, I'm quite excited about using a Pi without the annoying part: the operating system. So that's an option too if you have a pi on a shelf collecting dust.
It's overkill for that project but know how to use it and how to program on it opens me so many possibilities especially in the direction of OpenCV and stuff like that. You gotta start small ;-)
Hi Stefan, Great video as usual. Would you mind providing the reference of the color pigment you used for this video? The link to amazon does not land on a specific product.
Depending on the rtv rubber it might. I've had curing issues with the monocure rapid gray resin and silicone. The problem was that the silicone did not cure 100% where it was touching the printed part. It wasn't liquid, but it remained sticky even after post curing in an oven.
I would not cut slots for the heater element or temp resistor. Yes, this means you would have to remove the heater element and thermistor before installing the sock and re-install them after, but this way the silicon sock remains in place with less chance of slipping in use. If you design your silicon mold with a small lip or flange around the perimeter at the top of the hot end block, it will grab it more securely.To prevent flashing you can use modeling clay to seal the edges of the 3d Printed mold clean. Option for silicon sock material, I believe you can simply bypass the 2 part silicon mixing and use a professional construction true silicon tube (no latex mix) or a hot temp automotive silicon, a lot cheaper, make multiple molds and you can pour and cure all of them at basically the same time and not waste any silicon, plus you can use them after 1 day curing. I have done a lot of silicon molds in my time, using 2 part silicons to duplicate parts in various types of mold making media. This is many times a messy process, why I think using a tube of ready to use high temp silicon will work for something like a small sleeve, like these hot end socks. You don't need to degass , special equipment, just a couple holes on the mold, one to pour (in case of a construction silicon tube to force the material thru) and another to vent excess.
Meist nehme ich nur Abgüsse von gedruckten Teilen um sie dann in Kunstharz zu gießen, aber auch eine gedruckte Form für Silikon habe ich schon probiert. Für mein neuestes Projekt, Sofortbildrückteil für Instaxfilm für meine Analogkamera, könnte ich auch einige Lichtdichtungen an das Druckteil angießen mit einer aufgesetzten Gussform statt diese zu drucken. Danke für die Anregung dazu 👍
Real late to this video, but curious would it be advantagous to cast mold around fully assmebled hot end. Would mean swapping hot end instead of nozzle, and cutting off to replace worn out nozzle
Since I replaced my 0.4mm nozzle by 0.8mm nozzle on my Ender 3 V2, I removed the silicone sock and it get perfect printing result from PETG, I got no idea about how it is work but I just leave it working without silicone sock.
you can just make the mold so you pour the silicon in, no need to have a top and be forced to squeeze silicone in. Gravity will make top of silicon flat ;)
Thin molds like that are a pain to fill, additionally it's almost impossible to get the top surface flat, it will have a positive or negative meniscus.. The approach followed here was the best.
@@jimbit22 I have battled the meniscus with a very tiny chamfer facing in towards the silicone filled cavity at the top lip of my molds you just need to very carefully fill enough even after the bubbles pop because the bubbles make the level go down.
Feel free to share the video on Facebook, Reddit, Twitter and other social media!
Can you please share the mold for the volcano hotend?
I printed and molded this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015676
Closed most of the holes with tape, though.
I did some silicone molds in the past and always used a vibrating sander to help reduce the bubbles. 😬👍
Which TFC silicone did you use?
The link to Amazon just shows me some 200°C silicone...
Greetings from Germany!
Please, make update to a video. I regularly doing silicone moldings and i must say, my silicone parts that i made flammable. Not just charring or something, it burns in flames, bright and hot. So please, don't do this silicone hotend sock, unless you know what exactly your silicone is.
You are a very talented and intelligent young man, Stephan; I'm sure glad you didn't quit after your second video bombed! It would have been a great loss to the 3D printing community!
using syringe to de-bubble is smart, never thought of that
No kidding! At first I was thinking that he should use a vacuum chamber to degas the silicone, but the syringe makes a perfectly capable vacuum itself.
This makes so many cool things possible. You don't need to print with flexible material to get flexible parts, you can print a mold using normal material and use this trick to make heat resistant flexible parts.
I think this video just pushed me over the edge into actually ordering a 3D printer.
If you know at least some CAD or are open to learn it, a 3D printer is an awesome tool!
Not just flexible parts. I've printed a mold and used it to form a concrete mold.
@@KieranShort Not just solid or flexible parts. I've printed a mold and used it to form an air mold.
(kidding aside, I really liked this video and thought your comment about making something out of concrete was cool...what was it? I just wanted to add a tongue in cheek take of molding something unusual along with the more serious question about what you made out of concrete.)
I own the Vertex nano, don't buy it.
If your medium is temperature-resistant (and you only need one or two) you don't even have to build multipart molds. Just print in PLA, fill the mold, and melt it away with a heat gun.
A touch of vaseline jelly between the mating surfaces will reduce liquid leakage and reduce amount of flashing that's left over
Great tip!
Yes but it needs a very little amount so it doesn't spill into the mold cavity. I use botox syringes to apply it.
You can dilute the vaseline with mineral spirits to get a better paste to work with.
Also, as you assemble it, you can wipe away any superfluous vaseline with a Q-tip.
Plasticine works well also
Using 91/99% IPA: Put any amount, say 6-12 OZ. in a capable bottle (CLEAN soda bottle works well), put in about 1 Once or more of vaseline, shake well let rest 5 minutes and shake WELL again (maybe use a 100*F water bath) let cool to room temp. Excess will fall out of solution and collect at bottom. Pour this mold release (not the stuff that fell out of solution) into a fine mist sprayer (with new label of course) and spray away, coat all surfaces well, you can't really overspray this unless you really try... Let air dry till the IPA has evaporated completely. In 5 years making vacuum molds for signs I've never had a failure and it also takes away any moisture the mold may have absorbed and is almost completely invisible in the finished product.
Hint: Don't use it thinking you can fill voids with it - just the thinest of compleat films is what you are after.
I did something similar with a 2 part PLA mold but I used an acrylic glue called Genii Quartz to smooth out the 3d print layer striations before casting.
I suspect some simple finishing process either sanding down the mold or applying something that could act like bondo putty for plastics might allow someone to make a 3d printed mold smoother if they desired. I started down the path of making my own silicone mold but got distracted by something else. I'm glad you persevered where I didn't. It's really neat to see someone do this. I have a different heat block, so I'm more likely to pick it back up and utilize things I learned from your design in the strength and separation aspects of your mold. That helps a lot!
This mold is freaking fantastic. I am using Permatex Hi Temp 81160. This is such a better sock than the commercially available ones that a comparison isn't even really fair.
This is great! And yes please, I would totally be interested in more silicone or resin videos. You explain things quite well!
GEEZ. wow. You make some of the best videos. THIS was perfect for something I'm looking into doing. Now, I just need to learn F360 more, and try this!! THANK YOU ! ! !
If you mix in a small, wide mouthed mason jar and attach a fermentation lid with a hand pump vacuum, you could probably remove the bubbles before you get to the syringe.
So glad that you sticked to creating content. Your contribution towards 3D printing is of immesurable value! Thank you and keep them coming! 👌
That was obviously a lie to manipulate you into giving a like...
@@Mobin92 there always has to be someone like you in the comments... Useless troll
Dude! This is awesome! What an awesome video. I appreciate you going over the process and sharing!
All the problems about silicone bubbles pop away at 13:18 without spending $100+ for vacuum chamber and pump, and this might just works for the very important first layer that hits the most detail of any of one's moldmaking project, to be bubble-free. wow, much thanks!
I've actually had far more success using the "pro" version of e3d's sock with the tiny hole for the end of the nozzle as compared to the second, more open design. For whatever reason I ended up having material stick to the exposed nozzle and glob up pretty frequently. The more covered design completely eliminated that problem for me.
Your custom sock design looks really good though. I really like the tighter fitment as compared to e3d's version. I'll be giving this a try as soon as I get the parts in :)
I had the same issue when printing with nylon, it sticks to the nozzle until I used a sock with the smaller hole.
I actually bought the thin hole version first and it didn't work well for me - the sock just didn't seem to fit well. The one with the larger hole fits better and lasted a lot longer...
I make 3D printed molds for Sugru as I cannot stand a hand molded item....and I am no artist.
and I am no 123456
I LITTERALY WAS CHECKING THE thingiverse PAGE again out of curiosity and this popped on my youtube xD perfect timing
Excellent video! Would like to see more of this in the future. In Fusion, you can use the boundary fill to figure out the volume of something which would give you an idea of how much silicone you would need to use.
Wow, this is an awesome idea! I have started using a tusk design on a print cooler. You gave me an idea to incorporate the tusk (tubes) partly in the sock. Either just to give the tusks more room or even help holding them in place. I could even make a silicon fan "shroud" to connect the tusks to the fan.
I've been using high temp silicone adhesive from the hardware store for wood stoves, ovens and stuff to create my sock. Has been working fine for over a year with temps up to 240 C.
Way easier to get rid of the bubbles though with liquid two component silicone, that's for sure.
This could be a perfect solution for me, it's been impossible to find new replacement rubber parts for the weird trucks on my 15yr old longboard for at least a decade, custom molded parts were too expensive for me but this could be ideal...
Nice, came here because was looking to create a sock for the 360 round heater, this is quite helpful.
Your mold making skills are excellent, very nice result.
These could be amazing for custom gaskets for prototyping. Needed this exact kinda thing a few months back
Holy crap! Awesome and thanks!
Little tip: If you want to get rid of the layer lines, melt some beeswax and quickly dip the mold in it before injecting the silicone. If you do it quickly enough, the wax will fill the tiny gaps without disturbing the dimensional accuracy of the mold.
13:20 you are genius!
I came up with something similar when my sock was getting a bit worn out. i used a top and bottom half with one die in the centre. i printed the bottom half with m5 threads and the top had some indents for the m5 screws to sit flush in. mine largely worked but i wasn't using the right silicone. i was using an old tube of tiling silicone that was just going bad in the cupboard. it worked but it was much too soft. i just squeezed the silicone into the two halves. stuck the die in and tightened the halves down. the excess squeezed out through the weep holes i had in the sides.
mine worked but the choice of silicone was wrong. at 3 for $10 though i gave up and just bought the premade socks. my design was free and quicker than the post. but i'm not buying half a kilo of silicone to make 2-3 socks if i needed a new one every print it might be worthwhile. but these things already last forever usually only degrading if you end up with eruptions like the start of the video
Super! Great content with no bs. Thanks Stefan!
A question: 15:09 when you cut the place where the cables are passing: wouldn't be enough just to cut open with one cut the material over that hole? The whole thing is very flexible so I suppose one could still be able to pass it beyond that wires. But maybe that missing little part that you cut away is not important, I don't know.
That actually was my first intention but this way it's way easier to mount it on the block especially in tight places.
I made volcano molds before e3d ones came out. I don't feel the need to make my own now as the e3d volcano socks stay on with no issue, and the new version of the standard block don't have a problem of staying put either. I find the castable silicone disintegrates much quicker than the stuff e3d uses. I was only able to get about 2-3 weeks out of the homemade socks before the silicone started to crumble and disintegrate -- and yes I used the high heat stuff -- rated for 370c for prolonged exposure and over 450c for short exposure
E3Ds volcano socks are great and I never had a problem with those. Just cast one for for increasing my sample size. I've been using mine for quite a while even with PC that is printed at 270°C and they are still as flexible as on their first day.
Fantastic idea, good explanation as always. I think that only thumbs down comes from a Chinese manufacturer of these aftermarket socks :D They feel like loosing market because of your video :D
You could smooth out the mold with some polyurethane before casting, but honestly for this I like the layer lines, makes people question if you printed with silicone :D LOVIT
That would make for an interesting conversation about the capabilities of 3D printing!
Love the idea thx for fusion design..there is some trick to get no bubble with silicone ,fill the syringe from high distance to create a very fine thread then buble will die before fill up
Great video! You could use this technique to add molded strain reliefs to cables!
I think such a silicone mold could be used to produce DIY "injection molded" parts if the parts are small and the numbers are reasonably small. Like you said they can withstand the temps and are plyant so de molding will work even if it is not expertly designed. Off course you need a containment vessel for the silicone mold so it wont deform under a bit of pressure.
It can also be used to cast resins a lot easier than that.
I wonder, since silicone can resist 300 C, if you could 3D print a part, make a silicone mold around it, and then pour molten PLA or ABS in the silicone mold... thus getting a much stronger part (and making it very easy to replicate it quickly). The mold itself would probably need to be heated, but for smaller parts it shouldn't be a problem, and a kitchen oven should be good enough
Sounds good. Then, the PLA might "anneal" without deformations (related: ruclips.net/video/dOzVuoBP9gY/видео.html)
You are a genius man!!! I really love this channel :)))
Dude this is awesome. I’m going to sign up to askillshare so I can learn fusion360. If I can design parts and print them I’m set in my new hobby.
more mold making videos please!
This is content Im here for.
Silicone is easy to use. You can buy 400--600f silicones that can be had at a hardware or auto parts store.
MK4 early adopter. Need to get right on this.
Did you think of using the real aluminium block in the center for the mold? This way you can do a cast in place and you wouldn't even have to put it on because it is on. Tighter fit!
I made this, but it didn't work as well as the one in the video: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3548093
Silicone rubber does not stick to anything but itself. So even if you cast it in place it will come loose. Making the mold fit the block precisely might be a difficult chore..
@@jimbit22 Of course it doesn't stick. The main reason is so that you don't have to stretch the silicon mold and you don't have to make it so that you can replace it. It will be a much tighter fit and will allow for more coverage since you don't have to plan gaps in order to take it off. This can be designed in such a way that you can even switch nozzles without having to remove the silicone sock :)
Put you still have to install the heater and thermistor.
@@MarinusMakesStuff from experience, because there's no tolerance between the parts it will be a pain to re install the sock if it's 100% fit.
Sometimes the master slips on me when making 2+ part silicone molds and it never goes into place again without distorting the mold.
Having said that i can't be 100% sure that it won't work..
after casting the part put it in a small chamber and compress it with air. this will avoid bubbles
Wonderful video dude, I think i'm gonna try and make a couple for usage in our print lab :)
You mention bubble traps, I'm sure there are other design elements you need to include for this injection mold process. Could you explain these more?
This guy is a genius !
Wow really awesome! Thanks for putting so much work in your content.
Off topic, the CNC logo on the sock looks like WH Smith's 80s logo. Nice to be reminded off the place, the staff were so cool. I'd spend a good hour reading computer magazines, they never even looked at me! Of course soon as I could afford it I bought the mags from them.
Here it is! en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/WHSmith#/media/File%3AWHSmith1.png
I prefer the first silicone sock version from E3D. It keeps my nozzle clean. My heatbrake has leaked twice (fixed), but luckily didn't create a blob of doom
Silicone socks are amazing! I made mine from a different design before this and no more throwing heatbreaks out cause they're unusable (too much gunk makes it hard to unscrew stuff. I use less than 1$ chinese clones ofc :P)
it's so nice to always have a shiny beautiful heatbreak! not to mention the help with stringing etc. also the burnt plastic fumes can be toxic and all too
I just wish the heater block screw was covered since that doesn't seem to harm anything really. and I just wish it covered the nozzle A Liiiiiiiiiittttttlemore to the tip! but I love this regardless
That is awesome, I have to add this to my toolbox of techniques. One of the most useful materials I have for functional parts is TPU / TPE, but it can be a pain to print with on a stock MK3. This approach should be much faster (one of my recent projects was rubber feet for garden furniture to stop them damaging a wooden deck - 20 parts took a few days to print because TPE has to be printed so slowly). I especially like the trick of using the syringe to create a vacuum to degas the silicone, very elegent :)
Great project. But what makes me think like on other of my projects: what to to with the expensive material where you only use a few grams? Maybe print some molds for toys in the bedside table ;)
Great video! Learnt a few tips in fusion 360.
sweet, i have noticed my genuine v2 E3D hotend silicone sock falling off and not staying up, so definitely need to do one of these myself
Stephan, thanks so much for your content. I really appreciate your time and dedication to be as through as you are.
I wonder if you do consider venturing into making heat resistant molds from 3D printing. Not only because it would be interesting exploring metal casting and lost “wax” techniques, but I am really interested in reusable molds that resist heat such as plastic injection molding, for instance. Could you print a negative mould with all the registers that then would be used to create the final heat resistant mold to be used in the final casting? What do you have to do with all the tolerances?
Thanks again!
Paulo
Brilliant video, and just in time, too! Thinking about making a few silicone socks with my own logo on it. Having a but of a problem though. When I update the sketch and extrusion on one side, it's all fine. Doing the same on the other side breaks the whole thing :( Still, thank you for the Fusion 360 file and a how-to! Much appreciated.
Great content. Might be a little too fiddly for me unless I was making them for sale.
not sure if you like to fish but a mold that you could turn silicon into a bait
Easy to do it :)
If you want to, i could do one and publish it on thingi.
This is gold
Great video, I have bad problems with my extruder not being able to maintain temperature when printing PETG, I will get a Silicone sock and see if it helps!
I'm going to need you to slow down from making and teaching us all this cool stuff. I'm practically going broke just watching your videos. Awesome Stuff!
Great tutorial! I've solved all of my problems with the (pro) silicone sock falling off with a bent paperclip that goes around the sock. The springiness of the clip keep it squeezing the sock in place and I can simply pinch the ends of the clip to release it from the block. Super easy and effectively $0
Excellent job! Amazing video!
Super Video, jetzt weiß ich wie und aus was ich meine eigenen Fillament- Abstreifer für den Werkzeugwechsel machen kann :)
Welch gute Idee 👍👍👍, hat es geklappt? Kann ich das Design der Abstreifer irgendwo sehen (z.B. Thingiverse)?
One of the top ten video's this year so far
You're the best man. Nice video.
I have really wanted to make a 3d printer belt this way. Make a mold, pre stress nylon threads, and then fill it with silicone.
That would probably work, i like your idea, pls keep me updated.
ps. you can get a gt2 timing belt on thiniverse www.thingiverse.com/thing:245353
Gonna cast suppressor wipes for my PBS-1 AK47 suppressor using this. Thank you for the inspiration!
Have you considered using high temperature silicone sealant as used by plumbers & heating engineers? It’s a lot cheaper and easily sourced at a DIY store.
The E3D sock is probably designed as it is since industrial moulds are expensive, and it needs gaps on both sides for the cables for all the various printer configurations. A more enclosing design like this would still be fine for mass production actually, since you can manually cut the slots in afterwards. You even have the option of not cutting the sock at all and building the hotend around it. I guess they were going for ease of use and universal compatibility rather than rigidity, that said I've never had mine come off yet.
The project is fascinating, but on the AliExpress that sock costs about 0.65$. Everything comes down to hobby and experience ofcouse :)
Stefan the link for the silicone on the description is not bringing anything up. I think it needs update. Thanks in advance
Geo Per I agree. Stefan can you please update the silicone material link. Thnx.
@CNC Kitchen nice trick for the changing the fillet size have u considered using user parameters
I actually dip my hot and in one layer of candle wax and then dip it in high temperature silicone until I get my preferred thickness and it makes a nice tight fitting sock for my hot end
I've definitely had that booger monster before
If you use a thermal interface on your nozzle/heatblock, and heater cartridge (most importantly), you will never have to use a sock. You will not believe how much faster your hotend gets hot with a thermal interface- it's night and day. I use Deepcool Z5 thermal paste because it can go all the way to 300 degrees celsius. Just don't use it on your heat break.
Nice idea! I work with this silicone all the time. I use if for making moulds for casting lead, tin, wax, resin and sulphur.
That's pretty clever
Hey do you really need a Rasberry ? Arduino or a ESP8266 are for the most things enough.
Tipp: Don't use a DHT sensor there are not relay reliable and there accuracy is also not the best. I recommend a BME280 there are relative cheap and definitely better.
I recently learned about github.com/rsta2/circle and needless to say, I'm quite excited about using a Pi without the annoying part: the operating system. So that's an option too if you have a pi on a shelf collecting dust.
It's overkill for that project but know how to use it and how to program on it opens me so many possibilities especially in the direction of OpenCV and stuff like that. You gotta start small ;-)
Hi Stefan, Great video as usual. Would you mind providing the reference of the color pigment you used for this video? The link to amazon does not land on a specific product.
Cool! I am doing the same project just now) but my mold is printed on LCD 3D printer.
Have u tried sla 3d printing for this process? The resins affect the curing of the silicon?
Should work just as good. I just avoid resin printers as much as possible due to the mess involved.
Depending on the rtv rubber it might.
I've had curing issues with the monocure rapid gray resin and silicone.
The problem was that the silicone did not cure 100% where it was touching the printed part. It wasn't liquid, but it remained sticky even after post curing in an oven.
@@jimbit22 spraying the parts in primer before using them as a mold should help
Would you take money to make a mold design in STL form for micro Swiss hotend
I'm glad you didn't quit and fought through it. You're one of my favorite and most informative 3D printing channels.
Love it i will do from now on only those. 😁
Next: How to cast a silicone girlfriend....
Awesome. Did you tried to make the mold in the resin printer?
I would not cut slots for the heater element or temp resistor. Yes, this means you would have to remove the heater element and thermistor before installing the sock and re-install them after, but this way the silicon sock remains in place with less chance of slipping in use. If you design your silicon mold with a small lip or flange around the perimeter at the top of the hot end block, it will grab it more securely.To prevent flashing you can use modeling clay to seal the edges of the 3d Printed mold clean. Option for silicon sock material, I believe you can simply bypass the 2 part silicon mixing and use a professional construction true silicon tube (no latex mix) or a hot temp automotive silicon, a lot cheaper, make multiple molds and you can pour and cure all of them at basically the same time and not waste any silicon, plus you can use them after 1 day curing. I have done a lot of silicon molds in my time, using 2 part silicons to duplicate parts in various types of mold making media. This is many times a messy process, why I think using a tube of ready to use high temp silicon will work for something like a small sleeve, like these hot end socks. You don't need to degass , special equipment, just a couple holes on the mold, one to pour (in case of a construction silicon tube to force the material thru) and another to vent excess.
Meist nehme ich nur Abgüsse von gedruckten Teilen um sie dann in Kunstharz zu gießen, aber auch eine gedruckte Form für Silikon habe ich schon probiert. Für mein neuestes Projekt, Sofortbildrückteil für Instaxfilm für meine Analogkamera, könnte ich auch einige Lichtdichtungen an das Druckteil angießen mit einer aufgesetzten Gussform statt diese zu drucken. Danke für die Anregung dazu 👍
Great video, but what happened to that poor melted hot end?
Real late to this video, but curious would it be advantagous to cast mold around fully assmebled hot end. Would mean swapping hot end instead of nozzle, and cutting off to replace worn out nozzle
This youtube channel is such a joke. Calls himself CNC Kitchen and has not once cooked anything.
I've already got a collection of silicone socks, and I don't even have a 3D printer.
Since I replaced my 0.4mm nozzle by 0.8mm nozzle on my Ender 3 V2, I removed the silicone sock and it get perfect printing result from PETG, I got no idea about how it is work but I just leave it working without silicone sock.
Great video, thanks for your awesome work. One question: did you use some kind of release agent like vaseline for example?
In the beginning I did, later I noticed that it's not necessary for the silicone casts.
CNC Kitchen thank you very much 👍
great video...will you be selling any of the socks?
you can just make the mold so you pour the silicon in, no need to have a top and be forced to squeeze silicone in.
Gravity will make top of silicon flat ;)
True.
Thin molds like that are a pain to fill, additionally it's almost impossible to get the top surface flat, it will have a positive or negative meniscus.. The approach followed here was the best.
@@jimbit22 I have battled the meniscus with a very tiny chamfer facing in towards the silicone filled cavity at the top lip of my molds you just need to very carefully fill enough even after the bubbles pop because the bubbles make the level go down.
You mentioned you did a Volcano version, any chance you could share it? Other than that this is an awesome video. Great Job!
I printed and molded this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3015676
Closed most of the holes with tape, though.
@@CNCKitchen Thanks