Welcome back to the electric crosskart build series! In this video I install the bucket seat from Scat Enterprises, a 5 point safety harness, and a handbrake kit to operate the dual hydraulic calipers on the back brake rotor for parking and general foolishness. Links for the parts that I used in this video are below. If you have any questions or comments, you know where to post them. I read them all. Ep 7 will be ready for you folks in a few days and will show the installation of the cooling system, fitting the batteries in the cabin, and finishing some other random stuff to prep for paint. Thanks for stopping by! Seat: www.ebay.ca/itm/294711094844 Harness: www.ebay.ca/itm/233968286890 Handbrake kit: www.ebay.ca/itm/312617105002 Rear calipers: www.ebay.ca/itm/283066433127 Brake master cylinder: www.ebay.ca/itm/143716265990 Electric throttle: kellycontroller.com/shop/kelly-0-5v-throttle-pedal/ Website: www.resystech.com Support RST on Patreon or RUclips and earn membership perks: www.patreon.com/resystech ruclips.net/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWgjoin Follow RST on Facebook: facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology
if we were meant to have electric shit jp morgan would have stood out of the way of Telsa and by now would have been living in a utopia for real and not the leftest weirdo type either. crime wouldn't exist poverty and hunger would have long since been abolished planned obsolescence would have never existed and governance would be an afterthought. anyone pursuing this just annoys the shit out of me.
@ron whittaker If you're annoyed by "electric s--t" so much then you should unplug. With your life pretty much entirely dependent on "electric s--t", this buggy that you don't own or drive should be the least of your concerns. My videos are about DIY tech and self sufficiency - not politics. There are plenty of channels for discussing that time wasting nonsense.
@@mx96288 That's done long before the video, during the design stage. Ackerman is relatively easy to figure out. Simply put, the king pins and steering pivot points (on the steering arms) need to line up so that a straight line can be drawn between them to line up directly with the center of the rear axle to produce 'perfect' or 100% Ackerman. With perfect Ackerman, the center of the circles traced by the wheels while cornering will be at a common point at any angle. Though, this can be hard to accomplish with certain setups and not necessarily ideal for certain applications, like high speed racing or off-roading where parallel or anti-ackerman steering would provide better grip for high vertical loads. I'm not using 100% Ackerman with this kart, but am using some and may make adjustments later based on how it handles during the test drives. You can calculate the ideal inner wheel angle and Ackerman percentage as: Ideal inner angle = atan(wheelbase / (wheelbase / tan(outer angle) - front track width)) Ackermann % = (inner angle - outer angle) / (ideal inner angle - outer angle)*100
This has been on my dream list of things to do for over a year I've been waiting to see someone else try it (as I cannot afford/don't have all the knowledge yet) I'm so thankful to see and read your detailed write ups. It's really inspiring.
This man is really very talented appreciate your work sir 👍❤️ He know everything starting from design to manufacturing and fabrication ✌️👍 GOOD JOB sir 👍
Dope this gonna be a beastly machine when you finish man. Great job, love the editing and showing all the little parts like washers you put together + testing the harness, you legit inspire me bro XD
Awesome James! I love watching your methods and technique. What you make is stunning but it's that you show us the nitty gritty that puts it all over the top. Best regards from Montana Daryl
Where did you learn all of the electrical/ battery knowledge? And do you have any sites you could recommend for learning said skills? I learned a lot while building an electric skateboard but I'm afraid I'll need more knowledge to make an electric vehicle
Great job, well done. Check the height of your top seat belts as the holding point should be about 10 degrees above your shoulders. If you are in a crash it won't depress your spine as the if the belt is at the same height or lower than your shoulders would. These are just common facts from speedway drivers.
Thanks! Harness angles and mounting points have already been considered and set accordingly, but I actually learned slightly different from the pro's in my neck of the woods. Shoulder harness should be 90° parallel to your spine. 10° higher and there's too much wiggle room. The bottom line is that the harness should pull you back into the seat when the shoulder straps are tightened, not down. What you absolutely don't want are mounting points too high that allow movement in the seat. Your weight compounds significantly in a crash, and wiggle room increases the risk of breaking the harness. Waste strap angles also need to be within a certain range: ruclips.net/video/BFUdxclvdbo/видео.html
Hey I just found this channel and as a fellow homesteader looking to move to solar/wind I really love the videos! I have a question about the crosskart. With the handbrake it seems you're running it like a clutch basically. What does stopping an electric motor like that do for the internals of the motor? I'm working on a similar build but as a 1930s Sprint Car and I want to go electric.
Thanks! I'm not sure what you mean by using it like a clutch - a clutch decouples the engine output shaft from the transmission and allows each to spin freely without interacting or braking. The handbrake is primarily for parking since there's no transmission. Using the handbrake while driving to, for ex, initiate a drift around a corner will be no different than locking the rear brakes on my direct drive e-motos to go into a rear skid, or dragging the rear brake around a corner to tighten up the line. EV motors are robust and powerful. They're designed for this stuff, to handle anything that their ICE counterparts can tackle and more. The only thing that's going to stop them is going overvoltage, overcurrent, worn out bearings or water (if it's not a sealed model). Bearings aren't a big deal and overvoltage/overcurrent are very simple to prevent in the design and controller programming. The motor controller should always be sized and programmed to prevent voltage and current issues from damaging it, the motor or the battery. It's the brains of the operation. A good controller can be programmed by the user with easy to understand software, and will momentarily cut power to the motor if it senses the motor is pulling too much current (set by the user) from the battery, for example. As long as the stator is protected, then you can use an EV motor just like any other. The only difference is that a normal transmission isn't required (but don't necessarily need to be omitted) because EV motors produce a lot more low end torque than an ICE - an ICE would go nowhere if not for a multi-speed transmission. Most full size EV's use a single or two speed gearbox with the motor. That's it. No clutch, no torque converter, less problems.
15:08 Maybe a splitter to balance the force on each cable is better. 21:15 Um... Distance between the helmet and the roof?🤕😅 Very nice work and simple trick to protect threads during welding. 👍
15:08 - I did 21:15 - more than enough for me if the safety harness does its job. There's no reason for my ass to leave the seat unless I want out of it. Thanks!
James, incredible work! Question: does the SE seat give you enough cushion if you were to bottom out the shocks on this thing? Thoughts on lower vertebrae protection?
Looks visually stunning! The volumes are spot on! Curious to the weight distribution? And I’m excited to see it go! I imagine it’ll be a great trail ride machine. Any sand dunes in your area? Very happy to see you build this James!
Thanks! No sand dunes but there is an abandoned mine nearby with a tailings dam and loads of access roads, trails and gravel pits. And a couple of frozen lakes. Been a bit too warm this year to chance the lake, though. I want to test drive asap but there's really nowhere to take it right now during the winter other than the asphalt :( Snow is just deep enough in the trail that I don't think I can make it to the mine. We'll see what time brings. I think there's a bit of a rear bias with the weight distribution, but I need to get a few more scales to weigh things out more precisely. Total expected weight is somewhere between 850-900 lbs.
Hi, I'm just thinking that from a safety point of view it would be great if you made the steering safety shaft like on a car. Because that way when you crash it goes through you.
Not sure what you mean. I've been in a few car accidents where my face has bounced off the steering wheel - before air bags were mandatory. I have a deviated septum because of it. Didn't feel very safe at the time. The kart's designed with a good amount of crumple zone for a reason, my friend. No worries :)
One question. Is that a clutch pedal on the left? I may have forgotten about that from the earlier videos. This is probably a stupid question, but why would that be needed on an EV? The reason I asked is because I’ve had MS for over 16 years and so far only my left limbs are affected. Left leg/ ankle are the weakest. I am really interested in this build. I also like the reverse trike. MS has affected my balance as well. AWESOME builds/ creations. Hello from Northern Alberta. 🤘🇨🇦🤘. 🤓
at 21:22 i see that the seat shakes off from the frame from what i can presumably assume is from the fact that the seat is bolted to the mounts that are welded to the sheet metal in the bottom. Wouldn't it be safer to find a part of the metal frame to weld it to instead of the sheet metal? I don't recall from the previous videos so I might be making a fool out of myself, but it just doesn't seem safe with that wiggle. Also is the size of the surface that the weld enough? it just seems like those 4 points of metal might not be enough even if it was on the frame. Please correct me if I a wrong as I have little experience with metal work. Great video though, can't wait to see more
Thanks. As noted in previous videos, everything is just tack welded in place until all components are fitted. I never fully weld anything in place until I'm sure I won't need to reposition it on the chassis for any reason after the fact. That would just be a waste of time and MIG wire. The seat moves because it wasn't bolted in place when I put it back in the cabin, as shown in the video. There's a thicker steel plate tack welded to the tube chassis below the sheet metal that everything is plug welded to directly (mounts and all, hence the drilled holes in the flanges), shown in previous videos (I believe the body panel video). No different than seats mounted in a passenger vehicle with a unibody (ie no tube frame, just molded sheet metal). There's plenty of reinforcement. The seat is just a place to plunk my ass and keep me from shaking around so I have better driving control, anyway. The safety harness is what offers protection when it's needed, hence why the straps are mounted directly to the tube chassis and not the seat - this is the case for any machine.
You mean the wheel angle rotation. No, nowhere near too much. The steering rack is specifically designed for sand rails and has a similar steering ratio as an F1 race car, as in full lock out in both directions is achieved with
No. I have a flux core MIG because I do as much welding outside on the homestead as I do in the shop for RUclips. Gas shielding doesn't work very well in the wind.
Welcome back to the electric crosskart build series! In this video I install the bucket seat from Scat Enterprises, a 5 point safety harness, and a handbrake kit to operate the dual hydraulic calipers on the back brake rotor for parking and general foolishness. Links for the parts that I used in this video are below. If you have any questions or comments, you know where to post them. I read them all. Ep 7 will be ready for you folks in a few days and will show the installation of the cooling system, fitting the batteries in the cabin, and finishing some other random stuff to prep for paint. Thanks for stopping by!
Seat:
www.ebay.ca/itm/294711094844
Harness:
www.ebay.ca/itm/233968286890
Handbrake kit:
www.ebay.ca/itm/312617105002
Rear calipers:
www.ebay.ca/itm/283066433127
Brake master cylinder:
www.ebay.ca/itm/143716265990
Electric throttle:
kellycontroller.com/shop/kelly-0-5v-throttle-pedal/
Website: www.resystech.com
Support RST on Patreon or RUclips and earn membership perks:
www.patreon.com/resystech
ruclips.net/channel/UCtrf6ZiE6hw3k77hGpnuQWgjoin
Follow RST on Facebook:
facebook.com/RenewableSystemsTechnology
if we were meant to have electric shit jp morgan would have stood out of the way of Telsa and by now would have been living in a utopia for real and not the leftest weirdo type either. crime wouldn't exist poverty and hunger would have long since been abolished planned obsolescence would have never existed and governance would be an afterthought. anyone pursuing this just annoys the shit out of me.
@ron whittaker If you're annoyed by "electric s--t" so much then you should unplug. With your life pretty much entirely dependent on "electric s--t", this buggy that you don't own or drive should be the least of your concerns. My videos are about DIY tech and self sufficiency - not politics. There are plenty of channels for discussing that time wasting nonsense.
could you maybe point to the video×tamp where you figured out the ackermann geometry for the steering? :)
@@mx96288 That's done long before the video, during the design stage. Ackerman is relatively easy to figure out. Simply put, the king pins and steering pivot points (on the steering arms) need to line up so that a straight line can be drawn between them to line up directly with the center of the rear axle to produce 'perfect' or 100% Ackerman. With perfect Ackerman, the center of the circles traced by the wheels while cornering will be at a common point at any angle. Though, this can be hard to accomplish with certain setups and not necessarily ideal for certain applications, like high speed racing or off-roading where parallel or anti-ackerman steering would provide better grip for high vertical loads. I'm not using 100% Ackerman with this kart, but am using some and may make adjustments later based on how it handles during the test drives. You can calculate the ideal inner wheel angle and Ackerman percentage as:
Ideal inner angle = atan(wheelbase / (wheelbase / tan(outer angle) - front track width))
Ackermann % = (inner angle - outer angle) / (ideal inner angle - outer angle)*100
@@JamesBiggar thanks for elaborating!
Fascinating Viewing James you know your Stuff,I Can't wait to see this Ebuggy in Action!
A Brilliant looking Build Sir!
This has been on my dream list of things to do for over a year I've been waiting to see someone else try it (as I cannot afford/don't have all the knowledge yet) I'm so thankful to see and read your detailed write ups. It's really inspiring.
How great it is when you have the opportunity to create such things yourself, you make the world a better place👍
Duder you are building almost exactly what I have had in my mind for years and I absolutely love you for it....
Esse homem tem muito talento 👍👍😎
Nice work. That thing is going to be badass!
This man is really very talented appreciate your work sir 👍❤️ He know everything starting from design to manufacturing and fabrication ✌️👍 GOOD JOB sir 👍
Almost ready for the first run 👍👌🏻🤜🏼
It has been such a long time since the last video. It's good to watch your hypnotizing videos again! Awesome job!
I love too much how this man works! Keep continue James!!
nice to see you back dude
Wow, another great build video
Dope this gonna be a beastly machine when you finish man. Great job, love the editing and showing all the little parts like washers you put together + testing the harness, you legit inspire me bro XD
Yay, new video from that guy that does thing the right way
Man i cant wait to see the finished product.
great handwork
Awesome James! I love watching your methods and technique. What you make is stunning but it's that you show us the nitty gritty that puts it all over the top. Best regards from Montana Daryl
Thanks Daryl!
7 comments in 1 minute. This post is about to blow up 🤣 sick idea
Love the pedal beautiful
Loving the brakes pedal!!! Awesome job, keep it coming!!! :)
👍Love your creations! Thank you for the new video!
Great project 👍 greetings from Mexico 🇲🇽
Awesome project man! Im making a similar project a full aluminum 2 seater car with dual me1616s
Where did you learn all of the electrical/ battery knowledge? And do you have any sites you could recommend for learning said skills? I learned a lot while building an electric skateboard but I'm afraid I'll need more knowledge to make an electric vehicle
At this point just make your own vehicle brand, this is truly amazing
I love this thing
Great job, well done. Check the height of your top seat belts as the holding point should be about 10 degrees above your shoulders. If you are in a crash it won't depress your spine as the if the belt is at the same height or lower than your shoulders would. These are just common facts from speedway drivers.
Thanks! Harness angles and mounting points have already been considered and set accordingly, but I actually learned slightly different from the pro's in my neck of the woods. Shoulder harness should be 90° parallel to your spine. 10° higher and there's too much wiggle room. The bottom line is that the harness should pull you back into the seat when the shoulder straps are tightened, not down. What you absolutely don't want are mounting points too high that allow movement in the seat. Your weight compounds significantly in a crash, and wiggle room increases the risk of breaking the harness. Waste strap angles also need to be within a certain range:
ruclips.net/video/BFUdxclvdbo/видео.html
Excelente máquina.
I want this buggy 😍😍😍
Thank you .good job bro.
Hey I just found this channel and as a fellow homesteader looking to move to solar/wind I really love the videos! I have a question about the crosskart. With the handbrake it seems you're running it like a clutch basically. What does stopping an electric motor like that do for the internals of the motor? I'm working on a similar build but as a 1930s Sprint Car and I want to go electric.
Thanks! I'm not sure what you mean by using it like a clutch - a clutch decouples the engine output shaft from the transmission and allows each to spin freely without interacting or braking. The handbrake is primarily for parking since there's no transmission. Using the handbrake while driving to, for ex, initiate a drift around a corner will be no different than locking the rear brakes on my direct drive e-motos to go into a rear skid, or dragging the rear brake around a corner to tighten up the line. EV motors are robust and powerful. They're designed for this stuff, to handle anything that their ICE counterparts can tackle and more. The only thing that's going to stop them is going overvoltage, overcurrent, worn out bearings or water (if it's not a sealed model). Bearings aren't a big deal and overvoltage/overcurrent are very simple to prevent in the design and controller programming. The motor controller should always be sized and programmed to prevent voltage and current issues from damaging it, the motor or the battery. It's the brains of the operation. A good controller can be programmed by the user with easy to understand software, and will momentarily cut power to the motor if it senses the motor is pulling too much current (set by the user) from the battery, for example. As long as the stator is protected, then you can use an EV motor just like any other. The only difference is that a normal transmission isn't required (but don't necessarily need to be omitted) because EV motors produce a lot more low end torque than an ICE - an ICE would go nowhere if not for a multi-speed transmission. Most full size EV's use a single or two speed gearbox with the motor. That's it. No clutch, no torque converter, less problems.
15:08 Maybe a splitter to balance the force on each cable is better.
21:15 Um... Distance between the helmet and the roof?🤕😅
Very nice work and simple trick to protect threads during welding. 👍
15:08 - I did
21:15 - more than enough for me if the safety harness does its job. There's no reason for my ass to leave the seat unless I want out of it.
Thanks!
James, incredible work! Question: does the SE seat give you enough cushion if you were to bottom out the shocks on this thing? Thoughts on lower vertebrae protection?
Looks visually stunning! The volumes are spot on! Curious to the weight distribution? And I’m excited to see it go! I imagine it’ll be a great trail ride machine. Any sand dunes in your area? Very happy to see you build this James!
Thanks! No sand dunes but there is an abandoned mine nearby with a tailings dam and loads of access roads, trails and gravel pits. And a couple of frozen lakes. Been a bit too warm this year to chance the lake, though. I want to test drive asap but there's really nowhere to take it right now during the winter other than the asphalt :( Snow is just deep enough in the trail that I don't think I can make it to the mine. We'll see what time brings. I think there's a bit of a rear bias with the weight distribution, but I need to get a few more scales to weigh things out more precisely. Total expected weight is somewhere between 850-900 lbs.
Incredible :)
Very nice
Hi, I'm just thinking that from a safety point of view it would be great if you made the steering safety shaft like on a car. Because that way when you crash it goes through you.
Not sure what you mean. I've been in a few car accidents where my face has bounced off the steering wheel - before air bags were mandatory. I have a deviated septum because of it. Didn't feel very safe at the time. The kart's designed with a good amount of crumple zone for a reason, my friend. No worries :)
1st desperately waiting I also made a design ❤️✌️
I believe it's been said in past videos but what's the kw rating of your motor qnd controller? Badass build btw! 😎
Thanks! 24 kW cont, 55 kWp. Same power and speed as a Polaris RZR 900.
@@JamesBiggar wow! What a beast!
Nice video ❤️❤️🔥🔥
seru bget ya kawan mntap bnget ya
Fantastic video as usual, James! Have you already decided what the paint scheme is going to be?
Thanks! Gun metal grey, black and hunter orange. Pics can be seen on the website or past community posts.
On my phone it says James is making a bucket seat, harness and bra! Nice one James.
LOL!
One question. Is that a clutch pedal on the left? I may have forgotten about that from the earlier videos. This is probably a stupid question, but why would that be needed on an EV? The reason I asked is because I’ve had MS for over 16 years and so far only my left limbs are affected. Left leg/ ankle are the weakest. I am really interested in this build. I also like the reverse trike. MS has affected my balance as well.
AWESOME builds/ creations. Hello from Northern Alberta. 🤘🇨🇦🤘. 🤓
Thanks! That would be the brake pedal. It operates the hydraulics, the hand brake is for parking and goofing around (drifting, donuts, whatever).
Nice!
at 21:22 i see that the seat shakes off from the frame from what i can presumably assume is from the fact that the seat is bolted to the mounts that are welded to the sheet metal in the bottom. Wouldn't it be safer to find a part of the metal frame to weld it to instead of the sheet metal? I don't recall from the previous videos so I might be making a fool out of myself, but it just doesn't seem safe with that wiggle. Also is the size of the surface that the weld enough? it just seems like those 4 points of metal might not be enough even if it was on the frame.
Please correct me if I a wrong as I have little experience with metal work. Great video though, can't wait to see more
Thanks. As noted in previous videos, everything is just tack welded in place until all components are fitted. I never fully weld anything in place until I'm sure I won't need to reposition it on the chassis for any reason after the fact. That would just be a waste of time and MIG wire. The seat moves because it wasn't bolted in place when I put it back in the cabin, as shown in the video. There's a thicker steel plate tack welded to the tube chassis below the sheet metal that everything is plug welded to directly (mounts and all, hence the drilled holes in the flanges), shown in previous videos (I believe the body panel video). No different than seats mounted in a passenger vehicle with a unibody (ie no tube frame, just molded sheet metal). There's plenty of reinforcement. The seat is just a place to plunk my ass and keep me from shaking around so I have better driving control, anyway. The safety harness is what offers protection when it's needed, hence why the straps are mounted directly to the tube chassis and not the seat - this is the case for any machine.
You da man James! Is there anything you can't do? 😃
LOADS my friend.
@@JamesBiggar Nothing important, I'm sure 😁
عمل ممتاز شكرا عمل ممتاز شكرا
Огонь!!!👍
Super
don't you think that the steering translation is a bit too short?, that means it has to turn too much..., but otherwise it will be a masterpiece!
You mean the wheel angle rotation. No, nowhere near too much. The steering rack is specifically designed for sand rails and has a similar steering ratio as an F1 race car, as in full lock out in both directions is achieved with
You weld with MIG, but splatters and residue looks like from MMA welding. Aren't you using CO2?
No. I have a flux core MIG because I do as much welding outside on the homestead as I do in the shop for RUclips. Gas shielding doesn't work very well in the wind.
Viet nam 😁❤️
Literally first view
How did you do that 😂😂😂
So late man 😢😢😢
You don't say. Lol
You didn't hear it from me 🤣