Ed Viesturs & Peter Whittaker: Plastic vs Leather, mountaineering boots
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- Опубликовано: 9 мар 2011
- Ed Viesturs and Peter Whittaker discuss the different types of mountaineering boots on the market, as well as the pros and cons of plastic and leather boots.
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I’ve used both and I love to see them talking about this. Both of them legends in their own terms.
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WOW, Ed Viesturs, a true legend.
Well I got a killer deal on a pair of Koflach boots earlier in the year at Whittakers for 25.00 and I think they're the most comfortable plastic well built and they sure come in handy with all this powder here in Ashford and Eatonville. Thanks! Oh and BTW I could hike around Rainier all day in these plastic beauties haha! And Hanwag boots are an excellent option as well if you prefer leather.
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Ed lasted 7 seconds before he couldn’t handle the boot liner sticking out like that 😂😂 just funny because I couldn’t take my eyes off the boot, like Ed, till he put it back it.
Very cool video. Thanks for the info. I'm gearing up for my winter trekking now, excited with all the possibilities. Thank you.
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@shawnrr1 Thanks, glad you liked the video. The Nepal evos are waterproof due to a laminate on the inside of the boot, not due to the leather on the outside. These boots hold up really well and usually won't need any treatment. If however, your boots are a bit older and you're noticing that the leather is getting wet and want the leather to bead up, I would recommend some sort of water-base waterproofing wax for leather. There are multiple brands that offer adequate products. Hope that helps!
Thanks for the information....very good information for someone looking at Mount Everest
I love these videos. As an amateur I have been wanting to do Aconcagua, Illimani and other Andes peaks. Your vids have helped me get my gear situation under control without being overwhelmed. Thanks!
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Great review gentlemen
My interpretation of Ed's saying that the La Sportiva has a French fit is that its fit is more like the Galibier Super Guide. My favorite boots are my Raichle Futuras. I took them up Rainier twice and my feet felt like they were still at home. I think RMI used Futuras for a while.
nice vid! thanks for sharing
the koflach is a great boot, but the plastic won't last forever either. bought it used and the plastic is desintegrating on the sides where it gets most friction.so not necessarily a longterm investment. also down at thelowest lace loop. so they not bulletproof as i thought. still a good boot tho.
I have used Koflatch for more than 2 decades. And for Himalayan climbing, I think these are best bet. Leather shoes, are troublesome if they are in contact with soft snow / glacier water, wet creavases for long time.
I do think - zone of comfortability matters...but end of the day we have to see cost, life and durability for certain type of enviorment we are going into.
I would go for KOFLATCH as it is safer, act as water proof and its inner I used to use to keep feet warm inside sleeping bag :)
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Great video and really informative. I have one question about the EVO. Do you treat the leather on the boots and if so what is your leather product of choice?
@pharmdrake The Sabretooth (both pro and clip) work well with the Olympus Mons…we tried on the pro for good measure and it is a great fit. Hope that helps!
Would be interesting to see a remake of this now that Spantik and G2 SM are on the market. Same warmth but much lighter, especially the G2 which probably weights half of the Koflach
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@automagp68 For sizing the Koflachs I allow plenty of toe room knowing that these are my boots for high mountains and cold conditions. Koflachs tend to be a high volume boot with plenty of toe box room anyway. I fit mine to allow two pairs of socks- a lighter pair and a heavy pair over that- some people just wear one pair- it's personal preference.
I use same setup - EVO's+Sabretooth pro's :)
I have the Vasque Verticals leather with inner booties, work like magic, but are heavy since I wear size 14! Not sure if they still make them.
Great video! I've worn rental double plastic boots and just invested in leather boots to get a little more versatility, but was still wondering what exactly the main differences were. Thanks!
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@automagp68 As far as using crampons with overboots, the safest bet would be something like the Petzl Vasak or the Grivel Air Tech. These don't rely on having any mechanism engaging into the welt of the boot. This is the system that I use and it has not failed me. You can certainly try a locking system but you need plenty of welt at the front and back of the boot and you'll need to have the crampons very tightly fitted to make sure that they stay on.
Hopefully this information helps!
Ed
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so you would recommend the leather over the plastic boots? me and my dad are trying to summit rainier next summer and we're trying to get our gear and seeing which is better.
@automagp68 Almost all climbing boots will have some heel lift. Do not expect them to fit like ski boots.
Wich crampons would you recomend for Koflach artic exp boots?
Hola este video tendra una coinfiguración para español ?
Do more videos!!!!
What do you guys think if I were to get a good hiking boots for approach and a la sportiva olympus mons for conquering the 7 summits? (Less kilimanjaro becuase it is not much of a technical mountain).
Basically la sportiva olympus mons is good for 6000m and above however there are like 3 of that that is below 6000m, so I was just wondering if I could just do it with the la sportiva olympus mons instead of getting an extra pair of technical mountaineering boots.
I have the exact same question
I have seen people on Elbrus in Olympus mons. Probably not necessary but doable.
I use also the Koflach boot because my smallest feet size no any other products like olypus moons la sportiva only the koflach have small size
I have a question I buy me the OR brooks ranger overboots!! last week
how can I attach the crampons there??? for the fronts i think its okey but for the back the heel
behind it has no attachment! Can you help? or you not have tested the product OR brooks ranger
honer if you can help! thanks.
How good are the La Sportiva Spantik boots for climbing a 7000 meters mountain in Hindu Kush?
they love their rest-steps lol. how about some climbing footage and info?
I just watched this video and I am climbing mere peak (around 6500) I have been struggling to find boots because there is such a mixed range. I have heard people doing it in Olympus mons boots and I was wondering if this is overkill but also I have to consider I get cold feet. I have also heard people doing it in in the last sportiva Nepal boots but I am worried they may not be worm enough any advice I would much appreciate thanks
Sorry mate! I was 5 yrs late to reply :) I hope your climbing went well and successful at Mera Peak. Yes, there are so many mountaineering boots on the market. But each brand has a different fitting, some are wide fitting, some are narrow fitting, some had a high arch, some are low. so you have to try all of them and find the most suitable one. For trekking or mountaineering boot is the most important gear or a vehicle, must choose wisely. All the best for your future adventure. Namaste!
leather is good for summer... plastic will save your ass when it gets cold or very wet. I ice climbed the chere couloir in scarpa vega plastics in march , and my partner had insulated leather - he got cold feet. I didnt. ... The new plastic boots are less clunky too: eg the Baruntse.
Do any of you guys have experience with the Koflach versus the Scarpa Vega? What is the differences, and which weaknesses do they have? I'm really in doubt which one i should go with, both seam to be good solid products, hope you can help me out. ;)
5 years ago haha..
anyway, Scarpas are for narrow banana-shaped feet, very specific feet. Koflach more for broad feet, but not all models
Its a shame plastics are falling out of most use, I love how they look
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peter and ed are the dudes!!fucked up their trail lunches but still they were cool hahahaha,ill have to try on those evos one day,i use a gaiter style boot that works groovy.
Just bought the koflach for 5 bucks at a garage sale. Got lucky was getting ready to bite the bullet with the la sportive for 400
What's "french" about the fit of La Spartiva boots? La Sportiva is a 100% italian band.
He meant shape, and yes it seems pretty much the "narrow" feet shape people have there. Some german brands also have a bit of a narrow shape. They fit perfectly my german wife but doesn't fit my feet.
How long do La Sportiva Evos last? I've heard of some mountaineers sticking with plastics because they last much longer.
Nepal Evos are super durable and I have not seen any of them disintegrate from normal use. On Rainier, this is one of our guides top picks for boots. Though the color will fade from sealing with Sno-Seal or Nik-Wax and prolonged use, these boots are hardy. - Peter Whittaker
@WhittakerMtneering you say the EVO is waterproof, so you wouldnt have to put any ointment or scrub any grease on?
Huberd's shoe grease since 1921
Size 13?! GEESS!
What type of Koflach boots are those?
Those are the Koflach Arctis Expe from a couple years ago. The new model can be found here: www.whittakermountaineering.com/brands/koflach/arctis-expe
arctis expe
????prices ?!!!
How dare you pat Mr. ED!.... ha ha
Acon is basically a long hike, should not be consider a climb.
France is in Europe
Why does Ed have a look on his face like he just found out his wife is cheating on him ?