I will say, I lived on this series for a whole month. I own a blue 1990 Toyota 4runner same engine. I pulled it apart in my backyard just in time before the snow. I feel way more confident. Thanks so much and awesome videography. My heart nearly stopped in the last video on the fresh start. Cheers!
Hey just want to say I appreciate this video a lot, I think it's the most comprehensive vid in English ive seen , perfect for a noob like me. Thank you for making these.
Great work. Biggest issue for a job like this around me is a machine shop. Where have they all gone? Still searching for my next Toyota and have purposely avoided those with this V6 because of this issue. Keep up all the good content.
Hey man. Just saw your comment, I’m in your same boat. How did it turn out?! I just bought a 94 4Runner myself and I’m trying to get it started. The previous owner says it needs a valve job but he’s not the most trustworthy guy. I’m gonna flush the gas tank, change the oil, and coolant then go for the startup. Hopefully it will end up not being too bad. Expecting the worst though 🥲. I’d super appreciate to hear if you had any success or advice with your experience on your 95. Cheers, Garrett
Is it possible to install some kind of home made metal shield betwen exhaust pipe and cylinder #6 to keep that heat away? This is could be a cheap solution to prevent same problem in the future. Great video btw!
@@PracticalEnthusiast about to dive into a 3vze my self, great work here! I saw the 3.slow guys wrap the cross over with exaust tape as a simple way to address this issue, I am going to do that on mine before reassembly.
Been watching this to help me with my rebuild in my 94, awesome simple tutorial! Pretty cool of you not to rip every bolt out with an impact like me haha
Man after my own heart. I own a 91 Z32 TT and a 90 toyota pickup with a 3VZE. I wish my truck started off that clean, hell, I would have loved my Z to start off clean at all. Nice work my friend. 👍👍
I have a 95 4 runner V6 3.0 with 270k miles. It's been through head gasket changes at 120k and 219k and now at 270k. It was $2700 for a shop fix at 219k in 2021. So, now going to do this myself with your help. But a little aside and this just invites a little new commentary: Months ago and maybe the gasket was starting to go, while driving on a grade I experienced knocking worse than ever since owned this car. And I use cheap 87 gas 75% of the time. I want to propose that engine knock has to be pushing the head gasket to/beyond its limit; this is based om my experiencing the head gasket failure to within weeks of experiencing the sustaining knock at full throttle. I am not sure if paying more attention to how a "knock sensor" is working properly to prevent engine damage. Cylinder #5 is the culprit. Thanks for putting your valuable experience here.
Ironic they fail on #6 almost all the time, I think it has something to do with the exhaust setup, it's my though it's the hottest cylinder, and with that I switched to smog legal headers, and installed a metal head gasket, with the Permatex Copper Spray on the new gaskets. Before we bought the T100 4x4 full size the dealer had replaced the factory gaskets at 110K miles, when we bought the truck it had 179k miles, then the #6 cylinder was breached at about 207k miles. It's plausible the 100k mile head gasket is out there! We sold our 1993 T100 with 293k on it, would use maybe a quart of oil less every oil change at about 8k with semi synthetic oil. I was otherwise somewhat impressed with that old Toyota outside of the funky exhaust, and the 100k mile head gasket that is best served replaced with the metal MLS type.....
I'm just about to do a DIY Head Gasket Job on my 3VZE. Do you have any advice tips and tricks. I've watched ur 3VZE videos countless times over the past weeks. Thanks for capturing this for the world. Also, sick soundtrack.
I don't really have more advice than I mention in the videos. Just take your time, don't try to do it all in a weekend. Make sure you have all the parts and supplies before starting. Take pictures on disassembly! You can definitely do it, just don't rush.
@practical Enthusiast I saw your Kansas shirt. Are you actually located in Kansas. If so, I'd like to know what shop you used for the heads as I will be doing this job soon.
Buenas noches tengo una Toyota 4runner 1992 V6 3.0 automática Pregunta porque se calienta cuando le pongo su termostato ya le puse dos termostatos nuevos y ase lo mismo nomás se lo quito y trabaja bien
Thought I heard/read of that back crossover "culprit" being wrapped with some type of heat reducing wrap/insulation to help prevent future head gasket failure.....true??? I have a '94 sr5 ext cab pickup with 294,000....... bought new......on my second head gasket
Your videos are helping me a lot. I'm replacing my head gaskets using your video as my service manual. How does it run now? Did you see any scoring on the cylinder walls?
Removing the engine would significantly increase the time to do this job and really should only be done if intending to rebuild/replace the whole engine. I'm under time and space constraints so leaving it in is the most economical solution.
Thank you for your help, i have a question... i took off the heads about 2 months ago & just got them back from the machine shop & i do not remember which head cylinder bolts take the washer/thrust washer, could you help me out?
when i removed them, only half of the bolts came with them & i did buy new bolts. but they did not come with the "thrust" washers, so im re using the ones that came with it when i took it apart.
Edit add: How about this... I'll pay $500 to anyone who leads me to the solution. There has to be some ground rules though. I can't just replace dozens of parts or do dozens of tests and one of them finally works. It has to be someone who studies my data, and then confidently says "this is the issue". and then I check that system and confirm it was the issue. then I will pay that person $500. Even if the conclusion is that my piston ring is toast, or some other major issue. Of course, confirming that would require a new ring, which could take time. So if interested, we'll need to agree on the rules. What say you, to a little arm chair diagnosis! I'll need a flexible 6 month period to pay up, in case a family emergency or something occurs. Hope that fair Are you willing to help with my 3vze engine diagnosis for money? I can't find a mechanic to help me. They either refuse to work on it or else they have really bad advise(the last one lead to blown head gaskets and cracked radiator...3k advise! a stupid 'spark plug extender' that I was dumb enough to put on at his advise). No body wants to touch an OB1 vehicle around here. I'm having trouble narrowing it down, but have data that someone else might be able to 'translate'. 1.code 26 for like 2 years. (there is about 20 things that cause this code) 2.recently I checked again and code 25 and 26 now. 3.poor shaky idle, that has loosened up my exhaust system twice. downpipe fell off the first time. 4. compression test reveals low pressure in one cylinder(#2). Another is almost too low if I recall. 5. I can pull plug wires from at least two of the plugs and there is NO change in idle. 6. if I remove the other wires(individually I mean) the engine idle drops very noticeably. 7. I have thrown dozens of parts at it, including brand new cylinder heads. It never has run right after those new cylinders. The underlying problem must still be there. 8. Unfortunately some parts are impossible to find OEM or in decent used shape, so my 'air flow meter' is some aftermarket that I will never trust is working. I installed it after one shop did do some electrical testing. But they refused to check the numbers again after I installed the new one...unbelievable. There are too many variable for me to test all the sensors myself and be confident in my findings, *without guidance from a experienced mechanic*. 9. the cylinder with lowest pressure appears to have deposit buildup on at least one valve in that port.(whereas a neighboring one is ultra clean(a little surface rust only). I can't get my snake camera to view both valves in each port. 10. I just installed new plug wires, cap, rotor, and no change whatsoever. If anything, it's idling worst. I suspect because the new parts are running a tad bit better, leading to more significant power imbalance. 11. main driving symptoms: A. low, shaky idle at stop lights(sometimes dies if I don't put into neutral). B. Turning power steering to fast will also kill the engine. (there seems to be no 'up idle' for power steering, even though I installed new PS pump. (again, aftermarket junk I can never trust). also a new PS pump valve(vacuum valve). C. Hard starting. This gets worst and worse. *Though the new plugs and cap might have solved that). D. Cruise control stopped working years ago when all this domino effect of issues began. i know the speed sensor cable is possibly related and was gunked up and not spinning smoothing for a time. I believe I lubed it with graphite and it doesn't do that anymore, but probably is not running as smoothly as it should. E. going up hill is like riding a bike with no gears. The truck barely goes above 10mph unless I get a 'running start'. The automatic shifting seems to have huge delay, so by the time it kicks in, I'm already down to a crawl on a hill. So then auto shift happens and the rpms scream to near red zone(like 4500). Its feel like I'm towing king kong just to get up a small hill. F. I can go like 80mph on the freeway. After long drives though, the center console area is hot to touch. G. I tried a new CAT, but it was a very small aftermarket junk item, so I put the original back on. No change seemed to occur with that experiment. the old CAT is clogged, but flashlight test revealed about a 3rd of 'grid' is not clogged. The vehicle is stupid California emissions(I don't live in Cali), so has a downstream 02 sensor. Which means taking off CAT or poking hles in it for testing will cause bad senor readings. H. Sickening exhaust fumes from inside the cab. Not sure if normal or not. anyway, that's some of the data. I have done a ton of work on it, including swapping transmission twice(first one was bad from ebay). I think it's coming down to valve issue, but not sure. There is so many variables I can't keep it all straight. Willing to pay for help. I have investing countless hours into turning a $600 scrap vehicle into a working machine again. I refuse to give up on the old 3.0 slow.
Hey! You've collected a lot of data, lol. That's very good! I've read through it all and I think Step 5 is the one you need to narrow in on. Since the idle doesn't appear to change when pulling those two plug wires, then that tells me those cylinders are either not firing efficiently, or not firing at all. I know you said two cylinders had low compression. I'd be curious they're same cylinders that don't respond to pulling the plug wires. The next thing I would recommend doing is a leak down test on all the cylinders, but definitely focusing on the two suspect cylinders. That test will tell you whether there's a ring, head gasket, or valve issue with each cylinder. Check out my video on doing a leak down test here: ruclips.net/video/YLG_ZfRiXj4/видео.htmlsi=Rh_r2aeUwmhBR1gN Of course, the issue could be something else like bad fuel injectors, a massive vacuum leak, or a misaligned timing belt. But, even still, I'd recommend doing the leak down test first. Let me know how it goes!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I will say, I lived on this series for a whole month. I own a blue 1990 Toyota 4runner same engine. I pulled it apart in my backyard just in time before the snow. I feel way more confident. Thanks so much and awesome videography. My heart nearly stopped in the last video on the fresh start. Cheers!
You make it look easy Peter !
The mark of a true professional
Keep up the good work!
Finally did my 3.0 after 33 years of service!
Great content, Sir. Keep up the awesome work!
If we all could only work that fast...Nice job.
Love the level of detail in your work
Hey just want to say I appreciate this video a lot, I think it's the most comprehensive vid in English ive seen , perfect for a noob like me. Thank you for making these.
The best 3.0 diy visual walk through time lapsed vid.🤙🤙
Great work. Biggest issue for a job like this around me is a machine shop. Where have they all gone? Still searching for my next Toyota and have purposely avoided those with this V6 because of this issue. Keep up all the good content.
Thanks Scott! Machine shops are definitely getting harder to find. I'm lucky to have a couple in my area, but it's still a drive.
I just bought a 95 runner 3.0 trying to figure out if it's a dream or a nightmare
Hey man. Just saw your comment, I’m in your same boat. How did it turn out?! I just bought a 94 4Runner myself and I’m trying to get it started. The previous owner says it needs a valve job but he’s not the most trustworthy guy. I’m gonna flush the gas tank, change the oil, and coolant then go for the startup. Hopefully it will end up not being too bad. Expecting the worst though 🥲. I’d super appreciate to hear if you had any success or advice with your experience on your 95.
Cheers,
Garrett
MLS gaskets fixed this problem on the 3.4. So far so good on two daily driver gen 2 4runners in my fleet with MLS gaskets.
Is it possible to install some kind of home made metal shield betwen exhaust pipe and cylinder #6 to keep that heat away?
This is could be a cheap solution to prevent same problem in the future.
Great video btw!
That's a good idea, and it's likely possible to do so. Very tight fit back there though. Hmmm.
@@PracticalEnthusiast about to dive into a 3vze my self, great work here! I saw the 3.slow guys wrap the cross over with exaust tape as a simple way to address this issue, I am going to do that on mine before reassembly.
Been watching this to help me with my rebuild in my 94, awesome simple tutorial! Pretty cool of you not to rip every bolt out with an impact like me haha
Man after my own heart. I own a 91 Z32 TT and a 90 toyota pickup with a 3VZE. I wish my truck started off that clean, hell, I would have loved my Z to start off clean at all. Nice work my friend. 👍👍
I have a 95 4 runner V6 3.0 with 270k miles. It's been through head gasket changes at 120k and 219k and now at 270k. It was $2700 for a shop fix at 219k in 2021. So, now going to do this myself with your help. But a little aside and this just invites a little new commentary: Months ago and maybe the gasket was starting to go, while driving on a grade I experienced knocking worse than ever since owned this car. And I use cheap 87 gas 75% of the time. I want to propose that engine knock has to be pushing the head gasket to/beyond its limit; this is based om my experiencing the head gasket failure to within weeks of experiencing the sustaining knock at full throttle. I am not sure if paying more attention to how a "knock sensor" is working properly to prevent engine damage. Cylinder #5 is the culprit. Thanks for putting your valuable experience here.
Where did you send the fuel injectors off to?
That looks like a fun job.
I’m doing one right now, it ain’t fun
...Those heads look REALLY Clean.....
Ironic they fail on #6 almost all the time, I think it has something to do with the exhaust setup, it's my though it's the hottest cylinder, and with that I switched to smog legal headers, and installed a metal head gasket, with the Permatex Copper Spray on the new gaskets. Before we bought the T100 4x4 full size the dealer had replaced the factory gaskets at 110K miles, when we bought the truck it had 179k miles, then the #6 cylinder was breached at about 207k miles. It's plausible the 100k mile head gasket is out there! We sold our 1993 T100 with 293k on it, would use maybe a quart of oil less every oil change at about 8k with semi synthetic oil. I was otherwise somewhat impressed with that old Toyota outside of the funky exhaust, and the 100k mile head gasket that is best served replaced with the metal MLS type.....
I'm just about to do a DIY Head Gasket Job on my 3VZE. Do you have any advice tips and tricks. I've watched ur 3VZE videos countless times over the past weeks. Thanks for capturing this for the world. Also, sick soundtrack.
I don't really have more advice than I mention in the videos. Just take your time, don't try to do it all in a weekend. Make sure you have all the parts and supplies before starting. Take pictures on disassembly! You can definitely do it, just don't rush.
Great work!
Thanks for the video. very helpfull.
Hey..glad to see you're putting that new beast of an impact to good use..☺
Some assembly required. 😄
It has made life so much easier!
Thank you for the video. This will really help me out.
@practical Enthusiast I saw your Kansas shirt. Are you actually located in Kansas. If so, I'd like to know what shop you used for the heads as I will be doing this job soon.
Say what is that stuff you put on the shims just before you put the cam shaft back on?
That's engine assembly lube. It's thicker and stickier than oil so it helps lubricate on the engine's first start.
Cool stuff as always.
I miss your E30 though)
I might have something to fill that void soon. Not an E30 though - I haven't seen a decent deal on one in a long time.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Datsun 240Z ?🙃
Would be a nice candidate)
@@ALXG I think the ship has sailed for finding a good deal on those!
Please man, where do you get the torque specs for all of theses bolts ?
ever consider 3.4 swap?
I did, but ultimately decided I didn't have the time to go that route.
What sequence do you use to remove the head bolts and cam bolts?
How can I obtain the normal pace video??
Buenas noches tengo una Toyota 4runner 1992 V6 3.0 automática
Pregunta porque se calienta cuando le pongo su termostato ya le puse dos termostatos nuevos y ase lo mismo nomás se lo quito y trabaja bien
Thought I heard/read of that back crossover "culprit" being wrapped with some type of heat reducing wrap/insulation to help prevent future head gasket failure.....true??? I have a '94 sr5 ext cab pickup with 294,000....... bought new......on my second head gasket
Try it it's wat I'm doing at least
Hey love your videos man I’m taking my 93 sr5 4Runner 3.0 apart myself, I was wondering what tool are u using to take of the timing belt gears?
Your videos are helping me a lot. I'm replacing my head gaskets using your video as my service manual. How does it run now? Did you see any scoring on the cylinder walls?
It runs great. There was some scoring on the cylinder 6 walls.
I wish I had the tools and a location to tear my 1999 v6 4runner apart and rebuild the motor. 265k miles.
I see this and ... at what point do you just pull the engine and work on it outside of the truck?
Removing the engine would significantly increase the time to do this job and really should only be done if intending to rebuild/replace the whole engine. I'm under time and space constraints so leaving it in is the most economical solution.
@@PracticalEnthusiast Well that makes lost of sense. Thanks.
You put the cylinder head cam plug/rear bearing in dry? Instead of filling
The grooves with RTV like the FSM recommends? Did they leak?
Did you really pull the head bolts out in sequence?
Loosening in sequence matters, which I did. Unscrewing them and removing them in sequence does not matter.
@@PracticalEnthusiast i been wrenching for 30 years. I am going to disagree with you on this.
This is fun but it's delaying work on the Ducati!
Still waiting on the wheel to be straightened! And it just snowed here which is kinda a motorcycle buzz kill :(
Thank you for your help, i have a question... i took off the heads about 2 months ago & just got them back from the machine shop & i do not remember which head cylinder bolts take the washer/thrust washer, could you help me out?
All of the cylinder head bolts require flat washers. Also, the cylinder head bolts should not be reused because they are stretch bolts.
when i removed them, only half of the bolts came with them & i did buy new bolts. but they did not come with the "thrust" washers, so im re using the ones that came with it when i took it apart.
Wat year is motor bud?
1988
What head gaskets did you end up using? I used Felpro 60,000 miles ago and I think they failed on me.
I'm using Toyota ones. Check out my latest videos for the parts overview.
Why not pull the engine? At that point you are so far torn apart.
Nice vids!
Edit add: How about this... I'll pay $500 to anyone who leads me to the solution. There has to be some ground rules though. I can't just replace dozens of parts or do dozens of tests and one of them finally works. It has to be someone who studies my data, and then confidently says "this is the issue". and then I check that system and confirm it was the issue. then I will pay that person $500. Even if the conclusion is that my piston ring is toast, or some other major issue. Of course, confirming that would require a new ring, which could take time. So if interested, we'll need to agree on the rules. What say you, to a little arm chair diagnosis! I'll need a flexible 6 month period to pay up, in case a family emergency or something occurs. Hope that fair
Are you willing to help with my 3vze engine diagnosis for money? I can't find a mechanic to help me. They either refuse to work on it or else they have really bad advise(the last one lead to blown head gaskets and cracked radiator...3k advise! a stupid 'spark plug extender' that I was dumb enough to put on at his advise). No body wants to touch an OB1 vehicle around here. I'm having trouble narrowing it down, but have data that someone else might be able to 'translate'.
1.code 26 for like 2 years. (there is about 20 things that cause this code)
2.recently I checked again and code 25 and 26 now.
3.poor shaky idle, that has loosened up my exhaust system twice. downpipe fell off the first time.
4. compression test reveals low pressure in one cylinder(#2). Another is almost too low if I recall.
5. I can pull plug wires from at least two of the plugs and there is NO change in idle.
6. if I remove the other wires(individually I mean) the engine idle drops very noticeably.
7. I have thrown dozens of parts at it, including brand new cylinder heads. It never has run right after those new cylinders. The underlying problem must still be there.
8. Unfortunately some parts are impossible to find OEM or in decent used shape, so my 'air flow meter' is some aftermarket that I will never trust is working. I installed it after one shop did do some electrical testing. But they refused to check the numbers again after I installed the new one...unbelievable. There are too many variable for me to test all the sensors myself and be confident in my findings, *without guidance from a experienced mechanic*.
9. the cylinder with lowest pressure appears to have deposit buildup on at least one valve in that port.(whereas a neighboring one is ultra clean(a little surface rust only). I can't get my snake camera to view both valves in each port.
10. I just installed new plug wires, cap, rotor, and no change whatsoever. If anything, it's idling worst. I suspect because the new parts are running a tad bit better, leading to more significant power imbalance.
11. main driving symptoms:
A. low, shaky idle at stop lights(sometimes dies if I don't put into neutral).
B. Turning power steering to fast will also kill the engine. (there seems to be no 'up idle' for power steering, even though I installed new PS pump. (again, aftermarket junk I can never trust). also a new PS pump valve(vacuum valve).
C. Hard starting. This gets worst and worse. *Though the new plugs and cap might have solved that).
D. Cruise control stopped working years ago when all this domino effect of issues began. i know the speed sensor cable is possibly related and was gunked up and not spinning smoothing for a time. I believe I lubed it with graphite and it doesn't do that anymore, but probably is not running as smoothly as it should.
E. going up hill is like riding a bike with no gears. The truck barely goes above 10mph unless I get a 'running start'. The automatic shifting seems to have huge delay, so by the time it kicks in, I'm already down to a crawl on a hill. So then auto shift happens and the rpms scream to near red zone(like 4500). Its feel like I'm towing king kong just to get up a small hill.
F. I can go like 80mph on the freeway. After long drives though, the center console area is hot to touch.
G. I tried a new CAT, but it was a very small aftermarket junk item, so I put the original back on. No change seemed to occur with that experiment. the old CAT is clogged, but flashlight test revealed about a 3rd of 'grid' is not clogged. The vehicle is stupid California emissions(I don't live in Cali), so has a downstream 02 sensor. Which means taking off CAT or poking hles in it for testing will cause bad senor readings.
H. Sickening exhaust fumes from inside the cab. Not sure if normal or not.
anyway, that's some of the data. I have done a ton of work on it, including swapping transmission twice(first one was bad from ebay).
I think it's coming down to valve issue, but not sure. There is so many variables I can't keep it all straight.
Willing to pay for help. I have investing countless hours into turning a $600 scrap vehicle into a working machine again. I refuse to give up on the old 3.0 slow.
Hey! You've collected a lot of data, lol. That's very good! I've read through it all and I think Step 5 is the one you need to narrow in on. Since the idle doesn't appear to change when pulling those two plug wires, then that tells me those cylinders are either not firing efficiently, or not firing at all.
I know you said two cylinders had low compression. I'd be curious they're same cylinders that don't respond to pulling the plug wires.
The next thing I would recommend doing is a leak down test on all the cylinders, but definitely focusing on the two suspect cylinders. That test will tell you whether there's a ring, head gasket, or valve issue with each cylinder. Check out my video on doing a leak down test here: ruclips.net/video/YLG_ZfRiXj4/видео.htmlsi=Rh_r2aeUwmhBR1gN
Of course, the issue could be something else like bad fuel injectors, a massive vacuum leak, or a misaligned timing belt. But, even still, I'd recommend doing the leak down test first. Let me know how it goes!