Thanks for the thorough analysis, great work being done! Don't forget to lubricate mouth and throat with a quality water rinse to save our ears from the friction of hearing persistent dry swallowing and smacking sounds, thanks!
We used boeshield T9 on our fleet of helicopters to aid in the removal of exhaust staining, also on the main rotor blades to make them easier to clean. This is at least part of the designed purpose for this product, and worked rather well.
I only use Boeshield to lubricate shifter internals. Flush it out with a degreaser, flood with Boeshield and let dry then add some light grease to the ratchets and pawls. The new wax lubes are much better for chains.
Thanks Adam for another chain wear nerd friday!!! Not many chain lubes come in a spray can and a drip bottle,it would be interesting to see maybe block 1 done again with the drip bottle and compared with block 1 spray can just to see which application method works the best?I've taken my nerdness to the next level,I do 2 rollers at a time I put an extra big drop of ss drip on the rollers and take a small screwdriver and spin the rollers,this seems to suck more lube into the rollers.Only problem with this method is my back is killing me by the time I get all the way around the chain lol...Cheers everyone have a great weekend!!!!
Thanks glenn! Yes unfortunately due to very limited test resources (see comment reply to feedbackzaloop) - finding any difference for boeshield drip vs aerosol wont make the cut unfortunately! Also refer to great info from comment from jimhansen re what boeshield should be used for. Like oh many lubricants - it looks like just rebranding for bicycle chain use to just sell more was the thought path vs having any indication it would actually make a great bicycle chain lubricant. I would say you are going beyond needs for your application hahahaha! Follow the tips of; > Apply a drop at top of roller a little bit BEFORE cassette in big ring big cog so link is at maximum parts opening. Pedal backwards and the link will be straightened as it goes over cassette. this brings a bit of pumping action in. > After applying full length - use fingers to massage in. > Allow overnight set > Ensure lubricant and chain at circa 20dg ambient temp. SS drip does not have significant penetration issues, silca worked hard to ensure that, so you dont need to go to the lengths you are going. Also - it may be an excuse to get a bike stand and help save that back!
Boeshield was traditionally used to prevent rusting of the maintenance tools, spanners, pliers, etc... so I've been told before. However finding anything to confirm this online hasn't proved fruitful.
Not exactly to your point, but I've heard folks recommending Boeshield as an alternative to Frame Saver or linseed oil for steel frames (that is, as a spray-in coating that prevents interior rust).
T-9 is an amazing home and work lube. I have fixed drawers, simple mechanicals. But no way for a chain. Though for what it is this is an impressive result! I have a drawer with worn limps rollers. I lubed it 2 years ago, and it moves perfectly smoothly and quiet. It is amazing, but not magical! Oh! Also, I lube my bike rack with it. And my camper bibs and bobs. Many things. Just not a chain! 😁
T-9 is not a (good) chain lube. There are so many better products for that. Boeshield was developed by Boeing for surface rust protection on their airplanes. I had actually never heard of it until I was in a local woodworking shop when I was looking for a way to prevent surface rust on my table saw and bandsaw tables. What is IS good for is exactly what it was designed for. Protecting vulnerable metal surfaces from surface corrosion. If I'm building or re-assmbling a bike, every bolt gets coated in it (I use the drip version - the spray version is great for large metal tables, but wasteful for anything smaller. As Adam said, never spray it near your bike. That's just a disaster waiting to happen. Also, the spray cans seem to clog after a short time on the shelf. Using it as a surface protection, especially on stem bolts, shifter bolts, bottle cage bolts, derailleur mount hardware, fender/mudguard bolts, seat and seat post bolts, etc... is great, and it works a treat. Especially on indoor bikes where you are dripping sweat prousely on your bike. It's very good at prevening that hardware from rust. The second use I have found is for lining steel frames (ala Frame Saver) before you assemble your new steel bike. I've done this on a steel Ritchey P23 and a couple of Norco Search S (Steel). The spray version is best for this. As far a chains, nah.. Don't bother. Use one of the higher rated products (Silca etc...)
I’ve only really used it to clean and lube the bike stand and tools. It’s also worked great with cable housings for me. But I’m not sure I’d use it much elsewhere.
Good morning a question for you I live in Quebec in Canada and in winter the temperature can reach minus 20 or even minus 25! do you think it's still a good idea to wax my chain?´
Yes of course :) The main thing is wax can take a long time to break in and free up if you are doing that in very cold temps. Mspeedwax (based in minnesota, mad cross racers and very avid riders) recommend in winter to give chain a good break in indoors first. this may or may not be practical - so dont force yourself down a path if it isnt practical for you. For many though the hybrid approach can then work more efficiently - wax, break in, enjoy X kms lovely wax treatment on X rides - re lube with say silca ss drip, tru tension tungsten all weather or Ceramic Speed UFO drip next 3 to 5 re lubes as per their instructions, then re wax to reset any contamination starting to build. You dont have a tough break in period with the drip waxes. You do not need to clean chain with those products prior to re waxing. On balance - as the re wax takes care of chain maintenance, you have no cleaning maintenance time. There is no faster and more efficient way to maintain a super low friction, low wear chain than just re waxing vs other cleaning methods to reset contamination.
After all that drama something ok not to write home about!😁 On that note, did you try Decathlon lube? Some time early this or last year they updated and significatly expanded their choice. Not likely they hit your target audience, but will definetely be a good benchmark to compare other products against.
ah alas no their products are not looking too likely to make the shortlist at this time. Not due to price demographic - simply that there is nothing to delineate them from literally 1000 other products the same with same claims. Each test is very resource and time intensive and there is always a good list of products of high interest to try to get tested when i can - either re it may have a chance of being a genuine top option to recommend (or hopefully even stock and recommend if it tests well enough), or the most outlandish claims (like muc-off's, prestacycle etc) to put to test, or simply the most frequently requested / most interest lines. Alas mfg booked tests take up so much time now that tests of my own volition have been hard to squeeze in - and i am likely soon to need to put a pause on some lubricant testing as i really need to run some chain wear durability tests on some new chains (t-type etc) - AND also it has been an overdue project to run a suite of maintenance tests (ie wear rate saving for basic maintenance - lubing and wiping chain vs basic on bike spray maintenance vs clip on chain cleaner vs off bike container flush clean vs ultrasonic etc - and i need to re test a bunch of good lubricants in the updated single application longevity test such as smoove, silca ss drip and more - testing time / resources are maxed - finding spots for what is likely to fit into the category of "its a lubricant" is pretty limited!! decathlon products are likely to just be re bottled something..... unless there is a compelling reason they are not likely to make it to a zfc machine anytime soon!
@@zerofrictioncycling992 understandable! Work should not interfere personal life, but also personal experiments should not ruin the business. Different cleaning methods put head to head is one very overdue topic - would really keep my eyes and ears open. Often feel my usual three jars method is outdated and overcomplicated. Till then, have a nice frictionless weekend!
I'm really curious about the candle wax/DIY testing. Wondering how much of a difference friction reducers and a higher wax purity make in commercial waxes.
The top commercial waxes are typically a blend vs just a high grade paraffin base - even the best paraffin will not have the straight out treatment longevity - there has been a lot of tinkering and testing over the last decade not just on additives but also best base blend. Ie mspeedwax v2 had a nearly 1/3 the wear rate by end of main test vs v1, and much greater longevity. DIY can be great for many if using a high quality base, the main difference will be it will not be quite as fast (but not enough for most to ever worry about), but also simply one should re wax earlier vs the proven top waxes. If one can do that, they will have a great result all up re very low component wear. Crap base waxes which will have a lot of impurities (high oil content, soy, palm oil etc) will be both slow and typically gunk up quickly. DIY waxing ranges from very good to terrible and giving immersive waxing a bad wrap.
Do you know, this is such an interesting question - for me as a bare bones beginner in all this, here in Kraków. Truthfully, I haven't even finished cleaning the chains for the first application of Hot Melt. As I write it is twenty past ten at night for Adam, at the end of a hard week. I am sure Adam will have some things to say about this for you, regarding both the better drip wax and immersive waxes. And this really will have come up a little in earlier reports. But I really wish you could fire off some emails to the big three mainstream players in immersive waxes, MSW, Josh at Silca, and the super interesting guys in Finland, or give them a call over Skype, and sound out their honest general experience. Here in Małopolska, would you believe we are the eastern most city in Europe with an official Oceanic climate. And if it might come in with the trmperatures you are talking about - as I am often reminded by my best friend - the winters is extraordinarily milder than they were just 12 or 14 years ago. The same is certainly true of somewhere like Tartu in southern Estonia, where they just don't get minus 30° Celsius) as used to be such a common feature for them. I cannot help but recall the days of travelling freely across Russia, after the World Cup -- how really appreciative and admiring Russian people are of Canada. They look at Scandinavia and say: That is Soft Continental. But Canada is the true Hard Continental climate, just like them. Having said that, one really wonders how it is in a city like Oulu, a really big city, half way between Helsinki and Nordkapp, where As I seem to imagine it, things might be set up for commuting no worse at all than anywhere in the Low Countries. It is do interesting for me because I really am probably in a similar position to you. Here, there is a general idea of Winter being "off-season" , and actually, I have infinitely more experience in the suburbs of Adam's city (though certainly, I know nothing really, of going offroad in the Adelaide Hills or the Flinders or anything like that). For me, good minus 15 is a wonderland. For any of us from Australia, hanging out in Lviv, for example, that is the most incredible thing in the world - and needless to say, for skiers - the most ideal balace of lubrication and hardness - but the season and the possibility is over in a flash. I really think that Adam's five stages of testing are as essential here - to repate to your own locale and your approach to the conditions you either choose to face or needs must face every day in all their variety and change, that is as essential here as, within the temperate environment of Adam's lab. And so, finally if Adam may ever see my tremendously inexperienced ramblings - I would like to mention that one of my best friends, Krystoff, his cousin, Andrezej/Andrew, here in Kraków is the retired professor of mechanical at the Polytechnic. In Australia, you might call him an Emeritus, but actually that is not quite right. Although Professor Prescott in Experimental Physics at the University of Adelaide would be the direct equivalent. He still lives in his apartment with his wife, with all the students, and 200 metres walk through some low scrub bush, and the is his department, and he has an environmental chamber that can easily create a constant minus 30°C. I'm not sure how big it is; maybe you could set up a small track in there. And if Adam's interested, Andrew is a really good guy. His main claim to fame, I think is bringing together everyone together to set up Fluid Power Net International (FPNI) and then in 2008, bring in a hundred PhD students for their own conference on the topic in the 5th FPNI-PhD Symposium. That is all part of the efgort to solve the questions of efficency in fluid power in hydraulic systems, but as a cooperative international effort. But also, when one of his students became a professor in the US, he had a problem in pharmaceutical administration . . . so, together, they solved it. I cannot express my great joy enough at every detail, in which Adam has, corrected me at so many a turn, and where there is also when the opportunity comes, or circumstances in THIS far flung place requires, to use my own judgement, so that my admiration grows to know almost no bound. To Canada, very best wishes. I can only say that, of the three big, long term player in immersive waxing, have a good look at what is most affordable, including courier or postage charges, and maybe give it a go. But, I really suggest avoiding big box hardware stores -- and finding a essentiall a specialized chemical supplier, even a wholesaler for your solvents, both poparized and non-polarized (as Silca put it) for initial preparation of chains. But really consider thoroughly, and carefully, a specialized drip that really might have been made with more thought for the environmental conditions you are concerned about. My feeling is that ALL the suggestions Adam after so many South Australian Winters, this all is equally foundational, namely, the idea of cleaning after wet and dirty rides, the possibility of using three chains, maybe the third one reseved for the harshest Winter environments, or in which you try out, sparingly, the most expensive drip formulation. And the two pot method of immersive waxing. I just hope that I am not sounding like you should try out too many expensive alternatives all at once. Is MSW substantially cheaper around your way?
Hey David - msw in aus is retail of 59.90 aud + shipping (domestic is $13.95) - so none of the main three are really that cheap as such - however, vs most lubricant options as you can see from cost to run tables - due to the exceptionally low wear of the top waxes - overall lubricant cost is such a minor component per 10,000km of cycling vs cost of component wear. So vs so majority of drip lubricants sold, going with a top wax - it can be a case of say spending $50 more to save $500, or $1000 - which is a pretty good return on investment. However i think your question was maybe around other waxes? there are so many commercial on the market that i will not get to test in near future - the go to if one is looking to use a DIY would be gulf canning wax which is a food grade paraffin - and that can suit some if they are riding constantly in harsher conditions and so re waxing very often. The main advice re DIY is DO NOT use candle wax, or very cheap base wax - experiences are often bad. And so also for people not to add a whole bunch of PTFE etc in to crap base waxes - it is a waste. Get a decent base wax (genuine food grade paraffin) if the top tested products are looking too expensive and one will be having a grand time.
It should be but they may make changes. The actual lubricant in drip bottle (carrier + lubricant) in theory should be the same as aerosol - the aerosol simply has pressurised propellent that is inert with the product - but i believe in some cases with some products the aerosol version may be high viscosity (thinner & lighter) vs drip - not sure in this case. It was very thin and light. Its treatment lifespan was fine for the test intervals up to block 4 - i think it would have been too light to survive block 6. I did not bother testing in single application longevity as it is not worth the resources to do so as just a meh mid pack lubricant option.
Yupp, aerosol makes a total mess, and wastes product. The can also makes it annoying to carry if you are doing a point to point ride and need to top off overnight. It helps blast out the dirt, but not worth it. I love timing my low friction friday updates with a day off of work, starts the day off right.
I Love the stock photo by T9, is it a bike lube or trimming sheer lube to cut my roses. I did use T9 a lot in MI (drip and spray), it was the shop's go-to. But I found it really messy and you will get black chain marks on your leg and elsewhere.
Lubricants are lubricants. They lubricate things, and don't likely care if those things prune hedges and turn bolts. That said, T9 is more of a corrosion preventative than a lubricant. A rotating bicycle chain, or any high friction metal on metal rubbing, it probably not it's sweet spot. Great for dripping on bolts you don't want to corrode (any metal really). Just don't get it on your brake rotors/pads, and probably not ideal to get it on the mating surfaces of your seatpost or handlebar/stem/steerer. I use it on bolts and metal parts like (metal) stems/faces, etc... but I put those parts on a rag or towel, and spray them off of the bike (or drip if you are using the liquid). If you have an indoor trainer bike, this kind of film wax is ideal for keeping the corrosion from your equipment.
Thanks for the thorough analysis, great work being done! Don't forget to lubricate mouth and throat with a quality water rinse to save our ears from the friction of hearing persistent dry swallowing and smacking sounds, thanks!
We used boeshield T9 on our fleet of helicopters to aid in the removal of exhaust staining, also on the main rotor blades to make them easier to clean. This is at least part of the designed purpose for this product, and worked rather well.
I only use Boeshield to lubricate shifter internals. Flush it out with a degreaser, flood with Boeshield and let dry then add some light grease to the ratchets and pawls. The new wax lubes are much better for chains.
Thanks Adam for another chain wear nerd friday!!! Not many chain lubes come in a spray can and a drip bottle,it would be interesting to see maybe block 1 done again with the drip bottle and compared with block 1 spray can just to see which application method works the best?I've taken my nerdness to the next level,I do 2 rollers at a time I put an extra big drop of ss drip on the rollers and take a small screwdriver and spin the rollers,this seems to suck more lube into the rollers.Only problem with this method is my back is killing me by the time I get all the way around the chain lol...Cheers everyone have a great weekend!!!!
Thanks glenn! Yes unfortunately due to very limited test resources (see comment reply to feedbackzaloop) - finding any difference for boeshield drip vs aerosol wont make the cut unfortunately! Also refer to great info from comment from jimhansen re what boeshield should be used for. Like oh many lubricants - it looks like just rebranding for bicycle chain use to just sell more was the thought path vs having any indication it would actually make a great bicycle chain lubricant.
I would say you are going beyond needs for your application hahahaha! Follow the tips of;
> Apply a drop at top of roller a little bit BEFORE cassette in big ring big cog so link is at maximum parts opening. Pedal backwards and the link will be straightened as it goes over cassette. this brings a bit of pumping action in.
> After applying full length - use fingers to massage in.
> Allow overnight set
> Ensure lubricant and chain at circa 20dg ambient temp.
SS drip does not have significant penetration issues, silca worked hard to ensure that, so you dont need to go to the lengths you are going. Also - it may be an excuse to get a bike stand and help save that back!
Boeshield was traditionally used to prevent rusting of the maintenance tools, spanners, pliers, etc... so I've been told before. However finding anything to confirm this online hasn't proved fruitful.
Not exactly to your point, but I've heard folks recommending Boeshield as an alternative to Frame Saver or linseed oil for steel frames (that is, as a spray-in coating that prevents interior rust).
T-9 is an amazing home and work lube. I have fixed drawers, simple mechanicals. But no way for a chain. Though for what it is this is an impressive result! I have a drawer with worn limps rollers. I lubed it 2 years ago, and it moves perfectly smoothly and quiet. It is amazing, but not magical! Oh! Also, I lube my bike rack with it. And my camper bibs and bobs. Many things. Just not a chain! 😁
Why not a chain? It was sold to me by a bike store as a chain protector but I haven't used it yet. Figured I'd wait till winter.
T-9 is not a (good) chain lube. There are so many better products for that. Boeshield was developed by Boeing for surface rust protection on their airplanes. I had actually never heard of it until I was in a local woodworking shop when I was looking for a way to prevent surface rust on my table saw and bandsaw tables. What is IS good for is exactly what it was designed for. Protecting vulnerable metal surfaces from surface corrosion. If I'm building or re-assmbling a bike, every bolt gets coated in it (I use the drip version - the spray version is great for large metal tables, but wasteful for anything smaller. As Adam said, never spray it near your bike. That's just a disaster waiting to happen. Also, the spray cans seem to clog after a short time on the shelf. Using it as a surface protection, especially on stem bolts, shifter bolts, bottle cage bolts, derailleur mount hardware, fender/mudguard bolts, seat and seat post bolts, etc... is great, and it works a treat. Especially on indoor bikes where you are dripping sweat prousely on your bike. It's very good at prevening that hardware from rust. The second use I have found is for lining steel frames (ala Frame Saver) before you assemble your new steel bike. I've done this on a steel Ritchey P23 and a couple of Norco Search S (Steel). The spray version is best for this. As far a chains, nah.. Don't bother. Use one of the higher rated products (Silca etc...)
Brilliant info thanks Jim!
I’ve only really used it to clean and lube the bike stand and tools. It’s also worked great with cable housings for me. But I’m not sure I’d use it much elsewhere.
Good morning
a question for you
I live in Quebec in Canada and in winter the temperature can reach minus 20 or even minus 25!
do you think it's still a good idea to wax my chain?´
I live in Alberta and use silca hot melt and top up with silca ss drip with great results all year long!!!
Yes. In fact, I'll try waxing this year to see how it behaves in the winter as it'll my first waxed winter :)
Yes of course :) The main thing is wax can take a long time to break in and free up if you are doing that in very cold temps. Mspeedwax (based in minnesota, mad cross racers and very avid riders) recommend in winter to give chain a good break in indoors first. this may or may not be practical - so dont force yourself down a path if it isnt practical for you. For many though the hybrid approach can then work more efficiently - wax, break in, enjoy X kms lovely wax treatment on X rides - re lube with say silca ss drip, tru tension tungsten all weather or Ceramic Speed UFO drip next 3 to 5 re lubes as per their instructions, then re wax to reset any contamination starting to build. You dont have a tough break in period with the drip waxes. You do not need to clean chain with those products prior to re waxing.
On balance - as the re wax takes care of chain maintenance, you have no cleaning maintenance time. There is no faster and more efficient way to maintain a super low friction, low wear chain than just re waxing vs other cleaning methods to reset contamination.
Why not test the T9 drip lube? It will be only applied to the links/rollers - better penetration and less gunk getting all over the place
i hadnt tested an aerosol lubricant yet and this was the most requested one
@@zerofrictioncycling992 thanks man… absolutely love your work!
After all that drama something ok not to write home about!😁
On that note, did you try Decathlon lube? Some time early this or last year they updated and significatly expanded their choice. Not likely they hit your target audience, but will definetely be a good benchmark to compare other products against.
ah alas no their products are not looking too likely to make the shortlist at this time. Not due to price demographic - simply that there is nothing to delineate them from literally 1000 other products the same with same claims. Each test is very resource and time intensive and there is always a good list of products of high interest to try to get tested when i can - either re it may have a chance of being a genuine top option to recommend (or hopefully even stock and recommend if it tests well enough), or the most outlandish claims (like muc-off's, prestacycle etc) to put to test, or simply the most frequently requested / most interest lines. Alas mfg booked tests take up so much time now that tests of my own volition have been hard to squeeze in - and i am likely soon to need to put a pause on some lubricant testing as i really need to run some chain wear durability tests on some new chains (t-type etc) - AND also it has been an overdue project to run a suite of maintenance tests (ie wear rate saving for basic maintenance - lubing and wiping chain vs basic on bike spray maintenance vs clip on chain cleaner vs off bike container flush clean vs ultrasonic etc - and i need to re test a bunch of good lubricants in the updated single application longevity test such as smoove, silca ss drip and more - testing time / resources are maxed - finding spots for what is likely to fit into the category of "its a lubricant" is pretty limited!! decathlon products are likely to just be re bottled something..... unless there is a compelling reason they are not likely to make it to a zfc machine anytime soon!
@@zerofrictioncycling992 understandable! Work should not interfere personal life, but also personal experiments should not ruin the business.
Different cleaning methods put head to head is one very overdue topic - would really keep my eyes and ears open. Often feel my usual three jars method is outdated and overcomplicated.
Till then, have a nice frictionless weekend!
I'm really curious about the candle wax/DIY testing. Wondering how much of a difference friction reducers and a higher wax purity make in commercial waxes.
The top commercial waxes are typically a blend vs just a high grade paraffin base - even the best paraffin will not have the straight out treatment longevity - there has been a lot of tinkering and testing over the last decade not just on additives but also best base blend. Ie mspeedwax v2 had a nearly 1/3 the wear rate by end of main test vs v1, and much greater longevity.
DIY can be great for many if using a high quality base, the main difference will be it will not be quite as fast (but not enough for most to ever worry about), but also simply one should re wax earlier vs the proven top waxes. If one can do that, they will have a great result all up re very low component wear.
Crap base waxes which will have a lot of impurities (high oil content, soy, palm oil etc) will be both slow and typically gunk up quickly. DIY waxing ranges from very good to terrible and giving immersive waxing a bad wrap.
TBH, for being an aerosol lube, it isn't that bad.
It would likely be a decent bit better in pure liquid form, as it is a wax based lube solution.
Do you know, this is such an interesting question - for me as a bare bones beginner in all this, here in Kraków. Truthfully, I haven't even finished cleaning the chains for the first application of Hot Melt. As I write it is twenty past ten at night for Adam, at the end of a hard week. I am sure Adam will have some things to say about this for you, regarding both the better drip wax and immersive waxes. And this really will have come up a little in earlier reports. But I really wish you could fire off some emails to the big three mainstream players in immersive waxes, MSW, Josh at Silca, and the super interesting guys in Finland, or give them a call over Skype, and sound out their honest general experience. Here in Małopolska, would you believe we are the eastern most city in Europe with an official Oceanic climate. And if it might come in with the trmperatures you are talking about - as I am often reminded by my best friend - the winters is extraordinarily milder than they were just 12 or 14 years ago. The same is certainly true of somewhere like Tartu in southern Estonia, where they just don't get minus 30° Celsius) as used to be such a common feature for them. I cannot help but recall the days of travelling freely across Russia, after the World Cup -- how really appreciative and admiring Russian people are of Canada. They look at Scandinavia and say: That is Soft Continental. But Canada is the true Hard Continental climate, just like them. Having said that, one really wonders how it is in a city like Oulu, a really big city, half way between Helsinki and Nordkapp, where As I seem to imagine it, things might be set up for commuting no worse at all than anywhere in the Low Countries. It is do interesting for me because I really am probably in a similar position to you. Here, there is a general idea of Winter being "off-season" , and actually, I have infinitely more experience in the suburbs of Adam's city (though certainly, I know nothing really, of going offroad in the Adelaide Hills or the Flinders or anything like that). For me, good minus 15 is a wonderland. For any of us from Australia, hanging out in Lviv, for example, that is the most incredible thing in the world - and needless to say, for skiers - the most ideal balace of lubrication and hardness - but the season and the possibility is over in a flash.
I really think that Adam's five stages of testing are as essential here - to repate to your own locale and your approach to the conditions you either choose to face or needs must face every day in all their variety and change, that is as essential here as, within the temperate environment of Adam's lab.
And so, finally if Adam may ever see my tremendously inexperienced ramblings - I would like to mention that one of my best friends, Krystoff, his cousin, Andrezej/Andrew, here in Kraków is the retired professor of mechanical at the Polytechnic. In Australia, you might call him an Emeritus, but actually that is not quite right. Although Professor Prescott in Experimental Physics at the University of Adelaide would be the direct equivalent. He still lives in his apartment with his wife, with all the students, and 200 metres walk through some low scrub bush, and the is his department, and he has an environmental chamber that can easily create a constant minus 30°C. I'm not sure how big it is; maybe you could set up a small track in there. And if Adam's interested, Andrew is a really good guy. His main claim to fame, I think is bringing together everyone together to set up Fluid Power Net International (FPNI) and then in 2008, bring in a hundred PhD students for their own conference on the topic in the 5th FPNI-PhD Symposium. That is all part of the efgort to solve the questions of efficency in fluid power in hydraulic systems, but as a cooperative international effort. But also, when one of his students became a professor in the US, he had a problem in pharmaceutical administration . . . so, together, they solved it. I cannot express my great joy enough at every detail, in which Adam has, corrected me at so many a turn, and where there is also when the opportunity comes, or circumstances in THIS far flung place requires, to use my own judgement, so that my admiration grows to know almost no bound. To Canada, very best wishes. I can only say that, of the three big, long term player in immersive waxing, have a good look at what is most affordable, including courier or postage charges, and maybe give it a go. But, I really suggest avoiding big box hardware stores -- and finding a essentiall a specialized chemical supplier, even a wholesaler for your solvents, both poparized and non-polarized (as Silca put it) for initial preparation of chains. But really consider thoroughly, and carefully, a specialized drip that really might have been made with more thought for the environmental conditions you are concerned about. My feeling is that ALL the suggestions Adam after so many South Australian Winters, this all is equally foundational, namely, the idea of cleaning after wet and dirty rides, the possibility of using three chains, maybe the third one reseved for the harshest Winter environments, or in which you try out, sparingly, the most expensive drip formulation. And the two pot method of immersive waxing. I just hope that I am not sounding like you should try out too many expensive alternatives all at once. Is MSW substantially cheaper around your way?
Hey David - msw in aus is retail of 59.90 aud + shipping (domestic is $13.95) - so none of the main three are really that cheap as such - however, vs most lubricant options as you can see from cost to run tables - due to the exceptionally low wear of the top waxes - overall lubricant cost is such a minor component per 10,000km of cycling vs cost of component wear. So vs so majority of drip lubricants sold, going with a top wax - it can be a case of say spending $50 more to save $500, or $1000 - which is a pretty good return on investment.
However i think your question was maybe around other waxes? there are so many commercial on the market that i will not get to test in near future - the go to if one is looking to use a DIY would be gulf canning wax which is a food grade paraffin - and that can suit some if they are riding constantly in harsher conditions and so re waxing very often. The main advice re DIY is DO NOT use candle wax, or very cheap base wax - experiences are often bad. And so also for people not to add a whole bunch of PTFE etc in to crap base waxes - it is a waste. Get a decent base wax (genuine food grade paraffin) if the top tested products are looking too expensive and one will be having a grand time.
Is the T9 spray the same product as the T9 drip product after the respective "carriers" have left the scene ?
It should be but they may make changes. The actual lubricant in drip bottle (carrier + lubricant) in theory should be the same as aerosol - the aerosol simply has pressurised propellent that is inert with the product - but i believe in some cases with some products the aerosol version may be high viscosity (thinner & lighter) vs drip - not sure in this case. It was very thin and light. Its treatment lifespan was fine for the test intervals up to block 4 - i think it would have been too light to survive block 6. I did not bother testing in single application longevity as it is not worth the resources to do so as just a meh mid pack lubricant option.
You mean "lower viscosity". A 90 wt oil has much higher viscosity than a 5wt oil. @@zerofrictioncycling992
Made in Michigan, iirc.
Põe em português por favor ❤
Yupp, aerosol makes a total mess, and wastes product. The can also makes it annoying to carry if you are doing a point to point ride and need to top off overnight. It helps blast out the dirt, but not worth it. I love timing my low friction friday updates with a day off of work, starts the day off right.
I Love the stock photo by T9, is it a bike lube or trimming sheer lube to cut my roses. I did use T9 a lot in MI (drip and spray), it was the shop's go-to. But I found it really messy and you will get black chain marks on your leg and elsewhere.
Lubricants are lubricants. They lubricate things, and don't likely care if those things prune hedges and turn bolts. That said, T9 is more of a corrosion preventative than a lubricant. A rotating bicycle chain, or any high friction metal on metal rubbing, it probably not it's sweet spot. Great for dripping on bolts you don't want to corrode (any metal really). Just don't get it on your brake rotors/pads, and probably not ideal to get it on the mating surfaces of your seatpost or handlebar/stem/steerer. I use it on bolts and metal parts like (metal) stems/faces, etc... but I put those parts on a rag or towel, and spray them off of the bike (or drip if you are using the liquid). If you have an indoor trainer bike, this kind of film wax is ideal for keeping the corrosion from your equipment.