EXCELLENT EXCELLENT summary of the Walker trigger and its fundamental problem. Your fix is simple and permanent. >Could you please share your method of maintaining alignment while the epoxy is curing? >Could you include a link or a secondary reference in your comments where a professional gunsmith mentions this repair method? I'm a mechanical engineer with 40 years of machine design and fabrication experience and I see no downside to your fix, but would like to be aware of any concerns before I begin modifying a half dozen triggers. THANKS!
Thanks for the comments and interest. I just apply the epoxy and carefully center the connector onto the trigger, then place the trigger where it will not get disturbed until the epoxy cures. Have the trigger placed with the connector upwards, so gravity doesn't work against you. After the epoxy cures I drill and tap the trigger for the retaining screw. I am not aware of a professional gunsmith mentioning or promoting this modification. Can you tell me what comment in the video you are referring to ?
The trigger in question is JUNK! The way to fix it is to knock out the two pins and throw the entire trigger assembly in the trash, then replace it with a quality trigger.
Just watched the documentary on this trigger as it just happened to me at the range with a 600. The cost savings was 5 1/2 cents per rifle. RemArms just emailed back about the 1979 trigger recall. Their response, That was Remington, not us. We dont care.
I had a rifle fire on safety-off (not Remington). I could not figure out why it fired and could not replicate it even after extensive testing, until one day. I was wearing the same jacket as the first time... It turned out that when, in standing position with muzzle pointing up to the side, I did the movement to pull the safety back to fire position and unlock the bolt to unload (CZ safety is off in back position), the velcro cuff on my jacket would swing around the stock, through the trigger guard and attach itself to the velcro on my left arm. As I rotated my wrist/hand when operating the safety the velcro strap tightened and pulled on the trigger. It was so instantaneous that I thought for sure it fired because I had released the safety. Infact it was a pull of the trigger. It took me over a year to find this out but once I did I could replicate it about one out of twenty times when wearing the exact same jacket and layers underneath. I'm glad that no one was hurt. The jacket was sold to a non hunter. Unintentional discharge is chocking, dangerous and embarrassing. I think it's a natural human response to want to blame it on something else than the user error of oneself. I'm not saying that the Remington trigger is without flaws but my guess is that it has probably gotten credit for more unintentional discharges than it deserves.
It will also fire on closing the bolt if the sear barely catches it too. Mike Walker pointed this out to Remington and suggested a fix that only cost a few cents. Remington did nothing to fix it at that time but muddy the waters and tried to put all the blame on people adjusting the triggers incorrectly. This explanation from Remington satisfied most non mechanical minded people and so the controversy was born.
I haven’t had a problem with the Remington rifles I have but I am watching your video to see how you correct them so that they don’t accidentally discharge
@@AKBAKWUDSI really liked your information . It satisfied my questions about the “walker” trigger. I always wondered what could be wrong with it. Thanks
Hi - At 15:36 looking at the trigger and trigger connector glued and screwed together. Is their a small lip just below the trigger connector and the top of the trigger? While looking at the trigger at 15 minutes and 36 seconds, if you look top left as you are holding it, it there a very small lip where the connector is joined to the trigger, I noticed a small lip which can be felt with a fingernail. Just checking as I did not notice the lip pre-gluing and wanted to check the trigger connector is not sat too far back because of glue. I used a small amount of epoxy which squeezed out, but wanted to check. Thanks
@@TRDLaw Yes, a small lip in this area is normal. Just check sear engagement after reassembly. I just checked a trigger and connector in my parts bin to double check.
UPDATE: I read in an earlier comment about possible use of glue alone! Please read below. Following a 24-hour curing period, the necessary drill bits and 2mm taps arrived. Sourcing imperial-sized tools in the UK is challenging since the UK 'regressed' into decimalisation (metric). I miss imperial. The trigger I have to modify differs slightly from the one shown in the reference video, with the trigger connector being wider than the trigger body. During the initial drilling through the hole in the trigger connector, to establish a centre guide in the trigger body, for the smaller drill, the trigger body separated from the trigger connector. The trigger connector being wider than the trigger body, meant the pillar drill clamp was only securing the trigger connector, at the sides the trigger body was held only by the glue. I suspect the trigger is case hardened, as it took some initial force to make a mark, which likely contributed to the separation. (The later 2mm drill cut through it like butter). Despite the setback, the centre mark was sufficient to guide the smaller drill for the tapping process. The threads were then drilled and cut without the trigger connector attached. TIP: For thread cutting with very small taps, leave the drilled trigger in the pillar drill clamp and swap the drill bit for the tap. Utilise the chuck of the pillar drill to hold the tap, release the pillar drill return spring, the chuck no longer returns upwards, allowing a little gravity to push the tap down. Manually turning the chuck by hand ensures the tap stays central and reduces the risk of breakage, plenty of oil and keep backing out after several turns to clear the crud, it worked perfectly. After cleaning the trigger and preparing the mating surfaces with a much rougher Dremel grinding bit this time, (and re-checking the bolt could be screwed in easily) I re-glued. Then used a 2.0mm 0.4 stainless slotted, flat head bolt immediately after the re-gluing, making sure the trigger connector sat centrally along the trigger body. This also glued the bolt in place. Bonus - The shallow flat head eliminated the need for grinding the top of the bolt. Bonus 2 - there was no bulge in the trigger body. Why did I use a stainless bolt, no big deal, I chose a stainless bolt as mild steel and alloy can react and corrode. The main takeaway, feel free to ignore my ramblings (Above 😃) but never use glue only, if the two components eventually separate the flaking glue might cause the very thing you are trying to fix! Stick to AKBAKWUDS' process. 👍
Repair 14.42 Epoxy the connector to the trigger, rough up surfaces, clean with alcohol then epoxy. Once it sets up hard, drill a hole in the trigger using the existing hole in the connector. Tap for a 3/56 screw, head at connector end. Cut off the excess thread and file/sand smooth, then file the slotted head down to the bottom of the cross slot. Then remove the tip off the over travel screw. The threaded part of the over travel screw presses against the head of the screw that was threaded into the connector and trigger.
It would be nice to see a video of you going thru the actual process I get the epoxying the connector but loss me on the drill tapping and putting the longer screw in also walker trigger vs 40x are there differences between them aside from external adjustment screw underneath
I had a problem with the Remington 600 rifle yesterday the rifle discharge when i pushed the safety to the fire position my hand was not on the trigger i used my thumb to push the safety the rifle was in a rest an it went off so here i am watching this
Great vid. Thanks so much very well explained. You talk about aftermarket springs what is the best place to find them and what is your preferred springs, weight or thickness? Thanks again best explanation of a mod 700 trigger failure online.
@@bearbait2221 I bought an assortment of small springs from Wolff years ago, probably 50 or 60 small springs in a bag. I use them, but have also used springs from a guy who calls himself Ernie the gunsmith. Not sure if hes still around.
After having done some research I can't figure this out. The modification you do in this video makes a lot of sense. But Remingtons later trigger design, the X-mark pro, has a one piece trigger without the separate "follower". Remington still did recall on those because there had been accidental discharges and "fire on safety off" . What is your opinion on what might have happened with those and could the same thing happen even after your modification?
My understanding if I remember correctly was there was some adhesive or thread locking compound in those triggers causing issues. I don't have any x mark triggers, and am not intimately familiar with them like the older "Walker" triggers. Nothing man made is foolproof, but I have complete confidence in my 700 triggers as I modify them. It is still possible for the rifle to fire when the safety is released, but much less likely. Something would have to be physically holding trigger rearward or if trigger was improperly adjusted, especially sear adjustment.
@@AKBAKWUDSI actually had replaced the x pro trigger in one of my Remington 700 because I couldn’t adjust and it had a terrible trigger pull on it but now I know if you want to replace them it be better to use a Sheilen trigger
Thank You for all this. A very practical approach never even hinted at in the numbers of videos I have watched trying to understand a reasonable course of action to take. Do you have a favorite epoxy? and do you use a "brake clean" type spray to clean your triggers and if you do have there been any signs of epoxy failing? The through screw makes good sense for redundancy - did you have any concerns about weakening the trigger at that point? for now, after reading too many reports of unexpected discharge, I will be carefully pushing against the back of the trigger to try to make sure the trigger is in the max forward "un-pulled" position before moving the safety to the fire position or raising the bolt handle along with proper cleaning maintenance and adjustment and SAFE GUN HANDLING.
I have used brake clean and gun scrubber type products in some cases. They are helpful in removing dried oil "varnish", but usually I can clean that stuff out by other means or when I disassemble to complete this procedure. My favorite trigger cleaner/ lubricant is aerosol Kroil, it is thin and does not tend to congeal. As far as epoxy, I generally use whatever glass bedding compound I have on hand, acraglas or pro-bed. I also epoxy the threads on the screw before I thread it through the trigger. I have no concerns about weakening the trigger, everything is epoxied and screwed together. I personally would not trust epoxy on its own, although I have never tried epoxy without the screw. I would be more inclined to skip the epoxy and rely on the screw. The main advantage of the epoxy is it holds the connector in perfect alignment while drilling the hole for the screw. When actually drilling the hole, start the hole with a bit that fits snugly in the connector hole, then when you drill for the 3/56 screw that hole will be perfectly centered. If the hole is not centered, you will most likely break the tap off when trying to thread the hole.
Thanks for the vid/info. Why do you prefer the safety lever with the bolt lock feature? I have an ADL that reasons to NOT have that feature. Thanks again -- RR
Its personal preference really, but it boils down to making sure the bolt stays fully closed prior to getting a shot opportunity. If the bolt handle is lifted, even partially, a misfire is the likely result. The energy of the striker has to close the bolt prior to igniting the primer, causing misfires. I have actually had this happen, and know another hunter who has experienced this as well. It is not hard for brush or a tree branch to lift the bolt handle while hunting. Also, if you hunt from horseback, some scabbards retain rifle by the bolt knob. Having the bolt not locked down can cause rifle to not be properly retained in scabbard.
great video where did you get the screws that you use also what drill bit and tap did you use and where to find them. my old gunsmith did his triggers the same way. any info would be apreciated.
Thanks ! Screws came from Brownells, not sure anymore where I sourced the tap and bits. 3-56 tap, #88 bit to start the hole, #45 or 46 to drill hole. Starting the hole with larger bit ensures smaller hole is centered when you drill that.
exceptional trigger pull, but not compatible with Remington bolt locking safeties which I prefer. Also the housing is aluminum like the Timney, which may be fine but after seeing the egged holes on the Timney makes me a little cautious. I prefer Shilen triggers for aftermarket, compatible with Remington safeties and steel housing.
Lightening up trigger pull to 1# by changing spring/springs sounds like something many people listening to could try themselves with less than safe results. IMO you should have shown which springs and advocated a bump test. One gunsmith on RUclips stated the factory setup has zero tension for returning the trigger if adjustment is near or below 2#. While you might be able to change out one or more springs the system on the whole may work but suffer unforeseen consequences even if things seem to work well (you may change lock time or accelerate parts wear). Just my $.02.
I have a Remington ltr 308 do you know if those where supposed to have 40x mine has the walker trigger I bought new but wonder if someone possibly swapped it before selling it to me can’t get a straight answer from the new guys thanks
I am not sure if any LTRs had the older Walker triggers, doubt it but could be. Does your LTR have a date code stamped on the barrel just forward of the receiver ? That would tell you when your rifle was manufactured. I believe the Walker triggers were phased out in the early 2000s.
I have five LTRs and four 700Ps...some have the post-1982 Walker triggers (without the bolt lock tang) and some have the 40X (with the adjustment screw in front of the bolt release).
Yes, or when someone uses any oil that gums… 3-in-1, WD-40, etc. cause issues even in normal weather. The springs are just too weak to overcome gunk or extreme cold. The trigger is just garbage.
So I have a 700 adl in 30-06 Iv only shot it a few times with no issues. Should I just buy another trigger I didn’t pay for the gun but I do want a safe gun
me to have a 30 06 from 1984 and thats why im here.....YES!!!! change the trigger better to be safe than sorry........ also there seems to be a problem with walker triggers in cold weather I've always been a nut for safety......
Its a reason the new Remarms remingtons are coming with timney triggers. On the other Hand givin my experience with my brand new 700 CDl id say Remarms is running things just as poorly as anyone else. Do yourselves a favor and stay away from New Remingtons and if you buy a vintage one just replace the dang on trigger. Its a easy job anyone can do it.
Why doesn’t one of the trigger companies or Remington just make a new trigger with the trigger and trigger connector as one piece. Instead of buying a complete trigger assembly you could just change the trigger that has the connector permanently attached?.
3:40p.m Is that why Remington went tp Timney triggers? I HOPE That our paths don't cross in a hunting or shooting situation! Anybody banking on using epoxy in a trigger job somehow is not right
EXCELLENT EXCELLENT summary of the Walker trigger and its fundamental problem. Your fix is simple and permanent.
>Could you please share your method of maintaining alignment while the epoxy is curing?
>Could you include a link or a secondary reference in your comments where a professional gunsmith mentions this repair method? I'm a mechanical engineer with 40 years of machine design and fabrication experience and I see no downside to your fix, but would like to be aware of any concerns before I begin modifying a half dozen triggers. THANKS!
Thanks for the comments and interest. I just apply the epoxy and carefully center the connector onto the trigger, then place the trigger where it will not get disturbed until the epoxy cures. Have the trigger placed with the connector upwards, so gravity doesn't work against you. After the epoxy cures I drill and tap the trigger for the retaining screw. I am not aware of a professional gunsmith mentioning or promoting this modification. Can you tell me what comment in the video you are referring to ?
The trigger in question is JUNK! The way to fix it is to knock out the two pins and throw the entire trigger assembly in the trash, then replace it with a quality trigger.
Just watched the documentary on this trigger as it just happened to me at the range with a 600. The cost savings was 5 1/2 cents per rifle. RemArms just emailed back about the 1979 trigger recall. Their response, That was Remington, not us. We dont care.
Yes different company essentially. But if you keep these triggers clean they are perfectly fine.
I had a rifle fire on safety-off (not Remington). I could not figure out why it fired and could not replicate it even after extensive testing, until one day. I was wearing the same jacket as the first time... It turned out that when, in standing position with muzzle pointing up to the side, I did the movement to pull the safety back to fire position and unlock the bolt to unload (CZ safety is off in back position), the velcro cuff on my jacket would swing around the stock, through the trigger guard and attach itself to the velcro on my left arm. As I rotated my wrist/hand when operating the safety the velcro strap tightened and pulled on the trigger. It was so instantaneous that I thought for sure it fired because I had released the safety. Infact it was a pull of the trigger. It took me over a year to find this out but once I did I could replicate it about one out of twenty times when wearing the exact same jacket and layers underneath. I'm glad that no one was hurt. The jacket was sold to a non hunter. Unintentional discharge is chocking, dangerous and embarrassing. I think it's a natural human response to want to blame it on something else than the user error of oneself. I'm not saying that the Remington trigger is without flaws but my guess is that it has probably gotten credit for more unintentional discharges than it deserves.
It will also fire on closing the bolt if the sear barely catches it too. Mike Walker pointed this out to Remington and suggested a fix that only cost a few cents. Remington did nothing to fix it at that time but muddy the waters and tried to put all the blame on people adjusting the triggers incorrectly. This explanation from Remington satisfied most non mechanical minded people and so the controversy was born.
I haven’t had a problem with the Remington rifles I have but I am watching your video to see how you correct them so that they don’t accidentally discharge
I used silver solder to connect the trigger and connector.
Nice ! I imagine that would work as well or even better.
@@AKBAKWUDSI really liked your information . It satisfied my questions about the “walker” trigger. I always wondered what could be wrong with it. Thanks
Hi - At 15:36 looking at the trigger and trigger connector glued and screwed together.
Is their a small lip just below the trigger connector and the top of the trigger?
While looking at the trigger at 15 minutes and 36 seconds, if you look top left as you are holding it, it there a very small lip where the connector is joined to the trigger, I noticed a small lip which can be felt with a fingernail.
Just checking as I did not notice the lip pre-gluing and wanted to check the trigger connector is not sat too far back because of glue.
I used a small amount of epoxy which squeezed out, but wanted to check.
Thanks
@@TRDLaw Yes, a small lip in this area is normal. Just check sear engagement after reassembly. I just checked a trigger and connector in my parts bin to double check.
@@AKBAKWUDS Appreciate the timely response thank you, very helpful.
UPDATE: I read in an earlier comment about possible use of glue alone! Please read below.
Following a 24-hour curing period, the necessary drill bits and 2mm taps arrived. Sourcing imperial-sized tools in the UK is challenging since the UK 'regressed' into decimalisation (metric). I miss imperial.
The trigger I have to modify differs slightly from the one shown in the reference video, with the trigger connector being wider than the trigger body.
During the initial drilling through the hole in the trigger connector, to establish a centre guide in the trigger body, for the smaller drill, the trigger body separated from the trigger connector.
The trigger connector being wider than the trigger body, meant the pillar drill clamp was only securing the trigger connector, at the sides the trigger body was held only by the glue.
I suspect the trigger is case hardened, as it took some initial force to make a mark, which likely contributed to the separation. (The later 2mm drill cut through it like butter).
Despite the setback, the centre mark was sufficient to guide the smaller drill for the tapping process. The threads were then drilled and cut without the trigger connector attached.
TIP: For thread cutting with very small taps, leave the drilled trigger in the pillar drill clamp and swap the drill bit for the tap.
Utilise the chuck of the pillar drill to hold the tap, release the pillar drill return spring, the chuck no longer returns upwards, allowing a little gravity to push the tap down.
Manually turning the chuck by hand ensures the tap stays central and reduces the risk of breakage, plenty of oil and keep backing out after several turns to clear the crud, it worked perfectly.
After cleaning the trigger and preparing the mating surfaces with a much rougher Dremel grinding bit this time, (and re-checking the bolt could be screwed in easily) I re-glued.
Then used a 2.0mm 0.4 stainless slotted, flat head bolt immediately after the re-gluing, making sure the trigger connector sat centrally along the trigger body. This also glued the bolt in place.
Bonus - The shallow flat head eliminated the need for grinding the top of the bolt.
Bonus 2 - there was no bulge in the trigger body.
Why did I use a stainless bolt, no big deal, I chose a stainless bolt as mild steel and alloy can react and corrode.
The main takeaway, feel free to ignore my ramblings (Above 😃) but never use glue only, if the two components eventually separate the flaking glue might cause the very thing you are trying to fix!
Stick to AKBAKWUDS' process.
👍
Good vid, thanks. So are you tapping both the hard steel (sear) and soft trigger metal?
No, just tapping the soft trigger steel. The hole in the connector is larger than the tap, and the connector is too hard to tap.
Repair 14.42 Epoxy the connector to the trigger, rough up surfaces, clean with alcohol then epoxy. Once it sets up hard, drill a hole in the trigger using the existing hole in the connector. Tap for a 3/56 screw, head at connector end. Cut off the excess thread and file/sand smooth, then file the slotted head down to the bottom of the cross slot. Then remove the tip off the over travel screw. The threaded part of the over travel screw presses against the head of the screw that was threaded into the connector and trigger.
It would be nice to see a video of you going thru the actual process I get the epoxying the connector but loss me on the drill tapping and putting the longer screw in also walker trigger vs 40x are there differences between them aside from external adjustment screw underneath
What springs do you use to replace the factory spring?
Very well presented and explained.
Thank you
I had a problem with the Remington 600 rifle yesterday the rifle discharge when i pushed the safety to the fire position my hand was not on the trigger i used my thumb to push the safety the rifle was in a rest an it went off so here i am watching this
Great vid. Thanks so much very well explained. You talk about aftermarket springs what is the best place to find them and what is your preferred springs, weight or thickness? Thanks again best explanation of a mod 700 trigger failure online.
@@bearbait2221 I bought an assortment of small springs from Wolff years ago, probably 50 or 60 small springs in a bag. I use them, but have also used springs from a guy who calls himself Ernie the gunsmith. Not sure if hes still around.
How about making a video from start to finish disassembling the trigger to perform exactly what it is you’re showing to do in this video
I will do that ! Look for the video soon.
Very well done & intelligent sir!
After having done some research I can't figure this out. The modification you do in this video makes a lot of sense. But Remingtons later trigger design, the X-mark pro, has a one piece trigger without the separate "follower". Remington still did recall on those because there had been accidental discharges and "fire on safety off" . What is your opinion on what might have happened with those and could the same thing happen even after your modification?
My understanding if I remember correctly was there was some adhesive or thread locking compound in those triggers causing issues. I don't have any x mark triggers, and am not intimately familiar with them like the older "Walker" triggers. Nothing man made is foolproof, but I have complete confidence in my 700 triggers as I modify them. It is still possible for the rifle to fire when the safety is released, but much less likely. Something would have to be physically holding trigger rearward or if trigger was improperly adjusted, especially sear adjustment.
@@AKBAKWUDSI actually had replaced the x pro trigger in one of my Remington 700 because I couldn’t adjust and it had a terrible trigger pull on it but now I know if you want to replace them it be better to use a Sheilen trigger
Thank You for all this. A very practical approach never even hinted at in the numbers of videos I have watched trying to understand a reasonable course of action to take. Do you have a favorite epoxy? and do you use a "brake clean" type spray to clean your triggers and if you do have there been any signs of epoxy failing? The through screw makes good sense for redundancy - did you have any concerns about weakening the trigger at that point?
for now, after reading too many reports of unexpected discharge, I will be carefully pushing against the back of the trigger to try to make sure the trigger is in the max forward "un-pulled" position before moving the safety to the fire position or raising the bolt handle along with proper cleaning maintenance and adjustment and SAFE GUN HANDLING.
I have used brake clean and gun scrubber type products in some cases. They are helpful in removing dried oil "varnish", but usually I can clean that stuff out by other means or when I disassemble to complete this procedure. My favorite trigger cleaner/ lubricant is aerosol Kroil, it is thin and does not tend to congeal. As far as epoxy, I generally use whatever glass bedding compound I have on hand, acraglas or pro-bed. I also epoxy the threads on the screw before I thread it through the trigger. I have no concerns about weakening the trigger, everything is epoxied and screwed together. I personally would not trust epoxy on its own, although I have never tried epoxy without the screw. I would be more inclined to skip the epoxy and rely on the screw. The main advantage of the epoxy is it holds the connector in perfect alignment while drilling the hole for the screw. When actually drilling the hole, start the hole with a bit that fits snugly in the connector hole, then when you drill for the 3/56 screw that hole will be perfectly centered. If the hole is not centered, you will most likely break the tap off when trying to thread the hole.
@@AKBAKWUDS thanks for all this good information, it makes sense to me and is doable
Thanks for the vid/info. Why do you prefer the safety lever with the bolt lock feature? I have an ADL that reasons to NOT have that feature. Thanks again -- RR
Its personal preference really, but it boils down to making sure the bolt stays fully closed prior to getting a shot opportunity. If the bolt handle is lifted, even partially, a misfire is the likely result. The energy of the striker has to close the bolt prior to igniting the primer, causing misfires. I have actually had this happen, and know another hunter who has experienced this as well. It is not hard for brush or a tree branch to lift the bolt handle while hunting. Also, if you hunt from horseback, some scabbards retain rifle by the bolt knob. Having the bolt not locked down can cause rifle to not be properly retained in scabbard.
Great video
I would think with a good epoxy the screw wouldnt be needed but i could be wrong. I was thinking something like JBweld .
Do you have any suggestions for a good trigger for the 700?
great video where did you get the screws that you use also what drill bit and tap did you use and where to find them. my old gunsmith did his triggers the same way. any info would be apreciated.
Thanks ! Screws came from Brownells, not sure anymore where I sourced the tap and bits. 3-56 tap, #88 bit to start the hole, #45 or 46 to drill hole. Starting the hole with larger bit ensures smaller hole is centered when you drill that.
@@AKBAKWUDS thank you will go from there
What are your thoughts on the triggertech drop ins?
exceptional trigger pull, but not compatible with Remington bolt locking safeties which I prefer. Also the housing is aluminum like the Timney, which may be fine but after seeing the egged holes on the Timney makes me a little cautious. I prefer Shilen triggers for aftermarket, compatible with Remington safeties and steel housing.
Lightening up trigger pull to 1# by changing spring/springs sounds like something many people listening to could try themselves with less than safe results. IMO you should have shown which springs and advocated a bump test.
One gunsmith on RUclips stated the factory setup has zero tension for returning the trigger if adjustment is near or below 2#. While you might be able to change out one or more springs the system on the whole may work but suffer unforeseen consequences even if things seem to work well (you may change lock time or accelerate parts wear).
Just my $.02.
So it is a .356 screw,what is the thread pitch?
No, it is a #3 screw, 56 TPI
This may be safer but it changes the way the trigger works and feels.
I have a Remington ltr 308 do you know if those where supposed to have 40x mine has the walker trigger I bought new but wonder if someone possibly swapped it before selling it to me can’t get a straight answer from the new guys thanks
I am not sure if any LTRs had the older Walker triggers, doubt it but could be. Does your LTR have a date code stamped on the barrel just forward of the receiver ? That would tell you when your rifle was manufactured. I believe the Walker triggers were phased out in the early 2000s.
I have five LTRs and four 700Ps...some have the post-1982 Walker triggers (without the bolt lock tang) and some have the 40X (with the adjustment screw in front of the bolt release).
The Remington trigger is unsafe in below freezing temperatures. I've tested this in depth. It's a issue
Yes, or when someone uses any oil that gums… 3-in-1, WD-40, etc. cause issues even in normal weather. The springs are just too weak to overcome gunk or extreme cold. The trigger is just garbage.
So I have a 700 adl in 30-06 Iv only shot it a few times with no issues. Should I just buy another trigger I didn’t pay for the gun but I do want a safe gun
me to have a 30 06 from 1984 and thats why im here.....YES!!!! change the trigger better to be safe than sorry........ also there seems to be a problem with walker triggers in cold weather I've always been a nut for safety......
The cold weather problem is that people put/get oil or grease on them and they gum up. STOP putting oil/grease on/in the trigger mechanism.
Its a reason the new Remarms remingtons are coming with timney triggers. On the other Hand givin my experience with my brand new 700 CDl id say Remarms is running things just as poorly as anyone else. Do yourselves a favor and stay away from New Remingtons and if you buy a vintage one just replace the dang on trigger. Its a easy job anyone can do it.
Why doesn’t one of the trigger companies or Remington just make a new trigger with the trigger and trigger connector as one piece. Instead of buying a complete trigger assembly you could just change the trigger that has the connector permanently attached?.
3:40p.m
Is that why Remington went tp Timney triggers? I HOPE That our paths don't cross in a hunting or shooting situation! Anybody banking on using epoxy in a trigger job somehow is not right
Did you watch the video? Did you happen to see a screw used to hold it together?
We can't hear you
Has nothing to do with adjustment its cold weather in tolerate.
Your volume gets louder and quieter as your camera moves in and out. I give up.
Quitter
do you expecting hollywood quality video from person want to share problems and fix it.