My simple summary: no hookless, no tubeless (Risk, weight complete system, not enough width/volume for road). 35-45 depth carbon rims (so many affordable, good, race proven ones; EliteWheels, Deerobust, Yishun/LightCarbon) - good for all areas and crosswinds compatible. Pillar or Sapim spokes - no issues to replace wherever you are. I had many wheelsets, all Chinese (well they are anyway 😉 also of you pay 3k from major brands). All mentioned brands I use have 2-5y warranty and experienced it works. All wheelsets 1100-1600g and 350-750.- . No regrets so far for the last several years. Take care of your bearings, maintain and you have 5-6 great wheelsets for the price of 1x Enve etc. But as always, just my 5cents 😉 Cheers
Yes. Go with the wheels that have the best chance of working if you go chinese, and look at the warranty. I always buy stuff from china that is not important if it breaks (sunglasses for example are hard to mess up)
I can speak for wavy wheels and crosswind. I got a set from Lightbicycle to replace my stock aluminum rims. I live by the water so wind and gust can be around 30-60km/h. I played it conservatively so my front rims is 46.5 while the rear is 56.5. To my surprise my new carbon rims performed way better in crosswinds than my stock aluminum. I kind of wished I've gone 56.5 in the front as well.
nah, im good w my first gen emonda slr, w direct mount rim brakes and mechanical shifting, came in stock at 5.5 kgs and less than half the price of the equiv bike today .. i can fit 28mm tyres and my rides top out at 200k/day, so i dont see need for more comfort
I have a custum Seven I put 200k miles on. It maxed out at 30mm. After test riding and buying a new Domane for less than half the price, that custom bike is now on lifetime trainer duty. I've done a few 200mile rides on it but even short rides are still nicer on the +35mm tires I'm using now. Outside of my TT bike, I'm never using tires narrower than 32mm ever again😂 *200mile rides on the Seven weren't bad because it was all I knew. I couldn't imagine doing that now though🥴
Their Expensive VS Cheap Carbon Road Bike Wheels video was a great one. It's not as simple as expensive = good. It was nice to see the numbers on such a wide variety of wheels at different price points.
Great video as always. We should warn those who don't know... hookless is for suckers. It's cheaper to manufacture, but cost savings aren't passed down to us cyclists... all we get is a wheel with compromised tire holding ability and loads of marketing bs. There's not a single benefit of hookless wheels for us.
40mm for everyday action? I'd rather recommend sth. around 30mm, i.e. not deep. On account of weight, cost; alu is still competitive in that depth, easier to salvage if damaged (hitting a curb, pothole, ...).
I always train on 25-30mm rims. It's still weird to see everyone using deep wheels all the time these days. You rarely saw that I the rim brakes era because people didn't wanna wear their brake tracks down.
Disagree on material though. Carbon is much less likely to be damaged and it's really more reperable than aluminum rims that can only be straightened so much before cracking
@@yonglingng5640 They also have bands of extremely tough spring steel wire that are in the bead, and the bead itself has a ton of rubber incorporated to give it form. The amount of rubber needed to go into a tire to form a safe bead for hookless would most likely be well in excess of the weight of the lost wheel hook, and would also make the tire itself much less comfortable to ride.
Tubeless, absolutely yes. Hookless, absolutely NOT. I'm buying all my carbon rims from eiecarbon (Xiamen), they offer most of their modern tubless road and gravel rims (up to 25-26 mm internal width) as either hooked or hookless. Same price and weight for both options.
I have a pair of carbon fast forward, drift gravel wheels that are hookless. I bought them to replace the aluminum DT swiss wheel sets that came on my specialized diverge bike . during the pandemic, of course it was difficult to get Roval wheels, as an upgrade, but fast forward that’s the Dutch brand there drift model carbon wheels that are hook less work just fine. I only use this bike for gravel and mostly ride by myself with 40 C size continental terra speed tires. so far so good oh, and by the way, they have DT swiss to 240 XP hubs
OK, Here is a 10 step guide on how to balance your carbon wheels. Before I start I want you to place your bike on a work stand, put it in a high gear and spin your rear wheel to a high speed and feel the powerful oscillation forces that are shaking your bike. If by luck your wheels are fairly balanced the oscillation pulses will not be so powerful. But if by luck the wheel is very unbalanced the shaking pulses will be pretty powerful. At this point it does not matter if you have a $500 Chinese or a $3K Princeton wheel-set, if they are unbalanced their performance is going to be pure garbage, especially at high speeds. And it gets worse, because if you think about it the front wheel is also doing the same thing! Now you have two unbalanced wheels causing massive handling and rolling efficiency problems at high speeds... YUK! So how in the heck can you judge a wheel's performance if you first don't balance them to level the playing field when doing a performance comparison. They need to be balanced first, End Of Story... FYI: there are four methods to balance a bicycle wheel, but this is the basic method, that is easy and very effective. 1. Tools and supplies needed. Wheel truing stand / Roll of fishing lead or Golf balance lead / Black duct-tape / Hammer / wire cutting pliers / White out pen to mark the wheel / Gram weight scale / Rubbing alcohol / Paper towels. 2. Fully assemble the wheel with the tire etc like you are going to ride it. If it is Tubeless do not add the sealant until after you first balance the wheel dry. 3. Never assume that the heavy spot is going to be at the air-valve, when in fact it can be anywhere. 4. Mount the fully assembled wheel on the truing stand and gently tap on the truing stand to help the heavy spot on the wheel to rotate and settle at the bottom. Repeat this step several times to confirm that the heavy spot always settles at the same spot at the bottom. 5. With the white out pen mark the heavy spot at the bottom with an H (heavy), then mark the very top of the wheel with an L (light). 6. Rotate the H & L to a 3 and 9 O'clock position. If you let go of the wheel the H will want to rotate back down. If it rotates quickly that means you are going to need quite a bit of lead. But if it rotates slowly it will need less lead. 7. So to balance the wheel rotate the H & L to the 3 and 9 O'clock position, and this time temporarily tape on some lead to the L side. You want to add or subtract lead on the L side until the wheel remains steady at the 3 and 9 O'clock position. To check if it remains steady at the 3 and 9 O'clock position, tap on the truing stand to make sure it stays steady. If not add or subtract lead until it does. NOTE: You want to place the lead on the side of the rim as close as you can to the outer edge by the tire. 8. Remove the weights you temporarily taped on the L location and weigh them on the gram scale. Cut one solid piece of lead to equal the same weight, and then hammer it into a flat shape as thin as a dime. 9. Temporarily tape the one piece of flattened lead on the L location to double check that the wheel remains steady at the 3 and 9 O'clock position. 10. Clean the rim's L position with a paper towel & alcohol and carefully tape down the flattened lead on the side of the rim with the black duct tape. Make sure you balance both front and rear wheels. BINGO! You just balanced your wheels...! Now put the rear wheel back on your bike and spin it to a high speed and Guess what? The bike does not shake anymore. Now the bike and all those expensive watt saving bits can do their job with out being robbed of their performance by some stupid unbalanced wheel-set. So I just hope that from now on, when doing a wheel comparison test, they first balance the wheels so as to level the playing field. Sincerely Dan Sotelo👌
I tried tubeless and it didn't work out for me, although I am still open to them if they ever become available without having to use sealant. I will never accept hookless rims; the only reasons they even exist have nothing to do with the needs of cyclists. Some new technologies are sort of useless; this one is dangerous and stupid. I personally prefer clinchers with TPU tubes: they're actually lighter than tubeless, perform as well, are safe at any pressure, and have a pretty low level of pfaff.
I have a harsh bike and 2 plush bikes of varying degrees. Some days i like an aggressive bike. But some days i cant ride it cause im too beat up. I will never be a one bike person, or even a one wheelset person. Oh, i ride Reynolds rims through winter on the Felt AR, and giant slr 2s on the othe bikes. Have a nice set of aluminums but i hate them
Tubeless, there are positives. But hookless? Rubbish. Its reducing cost for manufacturers. But where is the price reduction? Show me a cheap light set of hookless wheels from a mainstream manufacturer
@@user-xvikol-635 Its good you enjoy them and got them at a good price. However, if you are comparing retail prices, there are similarly priced hooked mid-depth wheels like the Bontrager 37. If you go for less mainstream or Chinese brand, you can get hooked mid-depth wheels weighing between 1200-1400 grams. Yes they dont have the same warranty and dealer support but they are available. Im not trying to trash talk your wheels, I'm just saying hookless arent cheaper or lighter than hooked options.
@@user-xvikol-635 I'm comparing MSRP. It represents what the brand thinks the wheels should be sold at. Otherwise you will factor in which retailer is willing to eat into their margins or how much inventory they have and how desperate they are to move it. I have had 3 sets of Chinese branded wheels. 1 from a Chinese wheel builder, 1 from Elilee and 1 from Craft. Over 18,000km. 1 had a warranty issue which was promptly addressed.
customers wanted disc, fair enough. wider wheels were possible well before disc brakes were a thing. there a certainly advantages to disc brakes but it's bull ox like this that's keeping the discussion alive... imo...
Although it true that you could have wider wheels with rim breaks, you would need to buy a new set of calipers if you switched to significantly different wheels.
@@squngy0 sure but even then most rim brake frames wouldn't allow it. the new frames do and they could have been fittted with v brakes or calipers for wider rims could have been manufactured. granted they would have sucked in the wet but to say it's thanks to discs you can ride wider rims is only half true
5:05. That graph. Using grams and calling it force give me the impression you don't know what you are talking about, together with Hunt. My guess is that the numbers were converted from Force (Newtons btw) to grams by multiplying by 10,000. So any differences are very much in the noise and likely a lot less than repeatability (doing the same thing again to see if you get the same results). And hook-less rims are a bad joke. You really should try harder here.
It id superficial design trent, it is like jeans, for decates ther were just blue, then black, then washed out with huge holes... It makes no diffrence aerodynamics besides the look. Proven fact.
This material cannot be recycled and they are not durable, production is pain in the @$$ for employees and for environment, think twice before you buy, weight and speed of your bike can be compensated in a different way
Be VERY VERY CAREFUL buying chinese wheels. Ive had sets of Ican and Superteam wheels EXPLODE while not even being ridden at only 60 psi with a 25 mm tire! (Continental gp4000ll). Be horribly careful. Windbreak and Eagle and Rockbros are the same.
You should take more care with what you say. 'chinese wheels' is not a brand, it is a lazy and meaningless phrase, as is 'horribly careful'. You sound like a conspiracy theorist. Maybe you have some useful insights, who knows.
@notreal-pl7mz everything you said was meaningless to me, as you sound incredibly judgy. Horribly careful is not lazy, nor is it meaningless. In fact, it is said all the time. I don't know where you come from, but thats commonly said.
@notreal-pl7mz also, im fully aware Chinese wheels is not a brand. Its a category of very dangerous wheels that are as cheaply made as a walmart bike. If you take time to read my comments you will notice I mention several brands. Fake brands, fake wheels. And I definitely don't sound like a conspiracy theorist as again if you took time to read my comments or experiences with carbon wheels on MANY forums, you would know they have put many people in the hospital. Again, my father was riding a Continental gp 4000 ll tubed at 60 psi. The front wheel exploded. He wasn't even on it. And yes the Guage was correct. I have a tire pressure checker, pumped up many tires before and after just fine. It's a Topeak Joeblow booster pump. Pump mode. Don't buy Chinese wheels.
Just amazing, all these wonderful wheels and still no one has ever touched on the Subject of "Rotational Balance"... Think about this...... 50% of your bike is static, while the other 50% of your bike spins at a high rate of speed..! Don't you think if you balance the spinning 50% there is quite a gain in performance, especially at high speeds?! I've done the testing, and the performance of balanced wheels is OFF THE CHARTS... I can take a set of good Aerodynamic Chinese carbon wheels, balance them, and they will Blow the Doors Off all these wheels you are reviewing here. It just makes no sense giving these wheels all this "high performance" credit when they don't even have any type of wheel balance (system). Scientifically the Performance facts are simple, a wheel that is out of balance, oscillates at speed and creates "interrupted inertia" which eats watts l like a big bowl of Lucky Charms. Meanwhile, a rotational balanced wheel(set) creates pure smooth flowing inertia. And when you combine smooth flowing inertia with good aerodynamics, BINGO! You end up with the fastest, best handling wheels on the planet. Here's another interesting fact... If you're going to rate the performance on the wheels you are reviewing you first have to level the playing field by balancing them first, because some carbon wheels are more out of balance then others, and ROVAL are the worst of the worst. Would you purchase a high performance car or race wheels if the wheels were not balanced???? I REST MY CASE.
@@markhilborn3786 Hello Mark, Here's a 10 step guide on how to balance your carbon wheels. Before I start I want you to place your bike on a work stand, put it in a high gear and spin your rear wheel to a high speed and feel the powerful oscillation forces that are shaking your bike. If by luck your wheels are fairly balanced the oscillation pulses will not be so powerful. But if by luck the wheel is very unbalanced the shaking pulses will be pretty powerful. At this point it does not matter if you have a $500 Chinese or a $3K Princeton wheel-set, if they are unbalanced their performance is going to be pure garbage, especially at high speeds. And it gets worse, because if you think about it the front wheel is also doing the same thing! Now you have two unbalanced wheels causing massive handling and rolling efficiency problems at high speeds... YUK! So how in the heck can you judge a wheel's performance if you first don't balance them to level the playing field when doing a performance comparison. They need to be balanced first, End Of Story... FYI: there are four methods to balance a bicycle wheel, but this is the basic method, that is easy and very effective. 1. Tools and supplies needed. Wheel truing stand / Roll of fishing lead or Golf balance lead / Black duct-tape / Hammer / wire cutting pliers / White out pen to mark the wheel / Gram weight scale / Rubbing alcohol / Paper towels. 2. Fully assemble the wheel with the tire etc like you are going to ride it. If it is Tubeless do not add the sealant until after you first balance the wheel dry. 3. Never assume that the heavy spot is going to be at the air-valve, when in fact it can be anywhere. 4. Mount the fully assembled wheel on the truing stand and gently tap on the truing stand to help the heavy spot on the wheel to rotate and settle at the bottom. Repeat this step several times to confirm that the heavy spot always settles at the same spot at the bottom. 5. With the white out pen mark the heavy spot at the bottom with an H (heavy), then mark the very top of the wheel with an L (light). 6. Rotate the H & L to a 3 and 9 O'clock position. If you let go of the wheel the H will want to rotate back down. If it rotates quickly that means you are going to need quite a bit of lead. But if it rotates slowly it will need less lead. 7. So to balance the wheel rotate the H & L to the 3 and 9 O'clock position, and this time temporarily tape on some lead to the L side. You want to add or subtract lead on the L side until the wheel remains steady at the 3 and 9 O'clock position. To check if it remains steady at the 3 and 9 O'clock position, tap on the truing stand to make sure it stays steady. If not add or subtract lead until it does. NOTE: You want to place the lead on the side of the rim as close as you can to the outer edge by the tire. 8. Remove the weights you temporarily taped on the L location and weigh them on the gram scale. Cut one solid piece of lead to equal the same weight, and then hammer it into a flat shape as thin as a dime. 9. Temporarily tape the one piece of flattened lead on the L location to double check that the wheel remains steady at the 3 and 9 O'clock position. 10. Clean the rim's L position with a paper towel & alcohol and carefully tape down the flattened lead on the side of the rim with the black duct tape. Make sure you balance both front and rear wheels. BINGO! You just balanced your wheels...! Now put the rear wheel back on your bike and spin it to a high speed and Guess what? The bike does not shake anymore. Now the bike and all those expensive watt saving bits can do their job with out being robbed of their performance by some stupid unbalanced wheel-set. So I just hope that from now on, when doing a wheel comparison test, they first balance the wheels so as to level the playing field. Sincerely Dan Sotelo
My simple summary: no hookless, no tubeless (Risk, weight complete system, not enough width/volume for road). 35-45 depth carbon rims (so many affordable, good, race proven ones; EliteWheels, Deerobust, Yishun/LightCarbon) - good for all areas and crosswinds compatible. Pillar or Sapim spokes - no issues to replace wherever you are. I had many wheelsets, all Chinese (well they are anyway 😉 also of you pay 3k from major brands). All mentioned brands I use have 2-5y warranty and experienced it works. All wheelsets 1100-1600g and 350-750.- . No regrets so far for the last several years. Take care of your bearings, maintain and you have 5-6 great wheelsets for the price of 1x Enve etc. But as always, just my 5cents 😉 Cheers
agreed 100% as I have the same
Yes. Go with the wheels that have the best chance of working if you go chinese, and look at the warranty. I always buy stuff from china that is not important if it breaks (sunglasses for example are hard to mess up)
I can speak for wavy wheels and crosswind. I got a set from Lightbicycle to replace my stock aluminum rims. I live by the water so wind and gust can be around 30-60km/h. I played it conservatively so my front rims is 46.5 while the rear is 56.5. To my surprise my new carbon rims performed way better in crosswinds than my stock aluminum. I kind of wished I've gone 56.5 in the front as well.
can confirm it, LB‘s wavy rims are very crosswind stable, love them, also very light with carbon spokes
Rim brakes for the win in 2023.
My race wheels are still Zipp 808s from 2007 and they are fantastic. Alloy rims with structural carbon fairing.
Uhm. I would use v brakes but yes they are not bad
nah, im good w my first gen emonda slr, w direct mount rim brakes and mechanical shifting, came in stock at 5.5 kgs and less than half the price of the equiv bike today .. i can fit 28mm tyres and my rides top out at 200k/day, so i dont see need for more comfort
I have a custum Seven I put 200k miles on. It maxed out at 30mm. After test riding and buying a new Domane for less than half the price, that custom bike is now on lifetime trainer duty. I've done a few 200mile rides on it but even short rides are still nicer on the +35mm tires I'm using now. Outside of my TT bike, I'm never using tires narrower than 32mm ever again😂 *200mile rides on the Seven weren't bad because it was all I knew. I couldn't imagine doing that now though🥴
Same here steel frame for me to 😊 Pete
Their Expensive VS Cheap Carbon Road Bike Wheels video was a great one. It's not as simple as expensive = good. It was nice to see the numbers on such a wide variety of wheels at different price points.
Great video as always. We should warn those who don't know... hookless is for suckers. It's cheaper to manufacture, but cost savings aren't passed down to us cyclists... all we get is a wheel with compromised tire holding ability and loads of marketing bs. There's not a single benefit of hookless wheels for us.
HOOKLESS IS NOT WORTH THE REDUCTION IN PRODUCTION COST.
40mm for everyday action? I'd rather recommend sth. around 30mm, i.e. not deep. On account of weight, cost; alu is still competitive in that depth, easier to salvage if damaged (hitting a curb, pothole, ...).
I always train on 25-30mm rims. It's still weird to see everyone using deep wheels all the time these days. You rarely saw that I the rim brakes era because people didn't wanna wear their brake tracks down.
Disagree on material though. Carbon is much less likely to be damaged and it's really more reperable than aluminum rims that can only be straightened so much before cracking
what are the real advantages of hookless for consumers? I don‘t see them… instead, more dangerous, less range for tire pressure…
There are none.
11:06 but cars have horse power to rotate the heft of materials required to make their hookless systems work.
The tolerances of a car's hookless tire system are tighter than a bicycle's. This is why their tires need machines to be mounted.
@@yonglingng5640 They also have bands of extremely tough spring steel wire that are in the bead, and the bead itself has a ton of rubber incorporated to give it form. The amount of rubber needed to go into a tire to form a safe bead for hookless would most likely be well in excess of the weight of the lost wheel hook, and would also make the tire itself much less comfortable to ride.
@@yonglingng5640 Car tires can be mounted with hand tools. Machines are for efficiency and safety.
Tubeless, absolutely yes. Hookless, absolutely NOT. I'm buying all my carbon rims from eiecarbon (Xiamen), they offer most of their modern tubless road and gravel rims (up to 25-26 mm internal width) as either hooked or hookless. Same price and weight for both options.
I put 20s on my 20mm exterior front rims, all is good.
I keep the 32s for my mountain bike
8:00 to 8:10
Spot on description! Pretty much what happens everytime plus the usual shaky legs for a while.
Great video that answers each question quickly and confidently. Thanks.
Winspace Lun Carbon wheels.
I have a pair of carbon fast forward, drift gravel wheels that are hookless. I bought them to replace the aluminum DT swiss wheel sets that came on my specialized diverge bike . during the pandemic, of course it was difficult to get Roval wheels, as an upgrade, but fast forward that’s the Dutch brand there drift model carbon wheels that are hook less work just fine. I only use this bike for gravel and mostly ride by myself with 40 C size continental terra speed tires. so far so good oh, and by the way, they have DT swiss to 240 XP hubs
I can use my carbon fiber wheels during California winter!
On the subject of carbon spokes, what about titanium spokes? I'm riding with them.
OK, Here is a 10 step guide on how to balance your carbon wheels. Before I start I want you to place your bike on a work stand, put it in a high gear and spin your rear wheel to a high speed and feel the powerful oscillation forces that are shaking your bike. If by luck your wheels are fairly balanced the oscillation pulses will not be so powerful. But if by luck the wheel is very unbalanced the shaking pulses will be pretty powerful. At this point it does not matter if you have a $500 Chinese or a $3K Princeton wheel-set, if they are unbalanced their performance is going to be pure garbage, especially at high speeds. And it gets worse, because if you think about it the front wheel is also doing the same thing! Now you have two unbalanced wheels causing massive handling and rolling efficiency problems at high speeds... YUK! So how in the heck can you judge a wheel's performance if you first don't balance them to level the playing field when doing a performance comparison. They need to be balanced first, End Of Story...
FYI: there are four methods to balance a bicycle wheel, but this is the basic method, that is easy and very effective.
1. Tools and supplies needed. Wheel truing stand / Roll of fishing lead or Golf balance lead / Black duct-tape / Hammer / wire cutting pliers / White out pen to mark the wheel / Gram weight scale / Rubbing alcohol / Paper towels.
2. Fully assemble the wheel with the tire etc like you are going to ride it. If it is Tubeless do not add the sealant until after you first balance the wheel dry.
3. Never assume that the heavy spot is going to be at the air-valve, when in fact it can be anywhere.
4. Mount the fully assembled wheel on the truing stand and gently tap on the truing stand to help the heavy spot on the wheel to rotate and settle at the bottom. Repeat this step several times to confirm that the heavy spot always settles at the same spot at the bottom.
5. With the white out pen mark the heavy spot at the bottom with an H (heavy), then mark the very top of the wheel with an L (light).
6. Rotate the H & L to a 3 and 9 O'clock position. If you let go of the wheel the H will want to rotate back down. If it rotates quickly that means you are going to need quite a bit of lead. But if it rotates slowly it will need less lead.
7. So to balance the wheel rotate the H & L to the 3 and 9 O'clock position, and this time temporarily tape on some lead to the L side. You want to add or subtract lead on the L side until the wheel remains steady at the 3 and 9 O'clock position. To check if it remains steady at the 3 and 9 O'clock position, tap on the truing stand to make sure it stays steady. If not add or subtract lead until it does.
NOTE: You want to place the lead on the side of the rim as close as you can to the outer edge by the tire.
8. Remove the weights you temporarily taped on the L location and weigh them on the gram scale. Cut one solid piece of lead to equal the same weight, and then hammer it into a flat shape as thin as a dime.
9. Temporarily tape the one piece of flattened lead on the L location to double check that the wheel remains steady at the 3 and 9 O'clock position.
10. Clean the rim's L position with a paper towel & alcohol and carefully tape down the flattened lead on the side of the rim with the black duct tape. Make sure you balance both front and rear wheels.
BINGO! You just balanced your wheels...!
Now put the rear wheel back on your bike and spin it to a high speed and Guess what? The bike does not shake anymore. Now the bike and all those expensive watt saving bits can do their job with out being robbed of their performance by some stupid unbalanced wheel-set.
So I just hope that from now on, when doing a wheel comparison test, they first balance the wheels so as to level the playing field. Sincerely Dan Sotelo👌
Berd spokes seem to be latest thing. what are the advantages/disadvantages? Especially for a Clydesdale such as myself?
Hookless is incredibly dangerous. Hooked, tubeless is most definetly the future.
Hooked TPU tube is the future. 😂
I tried tubeless and it didn't work out for me, although I am still open to them if they ever become available without having to use sealant. I will never accept hookless rims; the only reasons they even exist have nothing to do with the needs of cyclists. Some new technologies are sort of useless; this one is dangerous and stupid. I personally prefer clinchers with TPU tubes: they're actually lighter than tubeless, perform as well, are safe at any pressure, and have a pretty low level of pfaff.
No way I'm I trusting hookless
I think that one should also watch videos from Aussieland , on the same topic. They are closer to China , and might have another view. !
Hookless the future ? Really ?
Is hookless the future? 😂😂😂
The best wheels ever : Roval rapide clx ❤
When will the alloy wheel comparison / review be released?
All the companies with carbon spokes offer spoke repair
Does that include plastic surgery from the face-plant when your wheel explodes?
I have a harsh bike and 2 plush bikes of varying degrees. Some days i like an aggressive bike. But some days i cant ride it cause im too beat up. I will never be a one bike person, or even a one wheelset person. Oh, i ride Reynolds rims through winter on the Felt AR, and giant slr 2s on the othe bikes. Have a nice set of aluminums but i hate them
Tubeless, there are positives. But hookless? Rubbish. Its reducing cost for manufacturers. But where is the price reduction? Show me a cheap light set of hookless wheels from a mainstream manufacturer
@@user-xvikol-635 1.6kg for 45mm and at a cost of over 1000 pounds. That is not light and not exactly cheap.
@@user-xvikol-635 Its good you enjoy them and got them at a good price. However, if you are comparing retail prices, there are similarly priced hooked mid-depth wheels like the Bontrager 37. If you go for less mainstream or Chinese brand, you can get hooked mid-depth wheels weighing between 1200-1400 grams. Yes they dont have the same warranty and dealer support but they are available. Im not trying to trash talk your wheels, I'm just saying hookless arent cheaper or lighter than hooked options.
@@user-xvikol-635 I'm comparing MSRP. It represents what the brand thinks the wheels should be sold at. Otherwise you will factor in which retailer is willing to eat into their margins or how much inventory they have and how desperate they are to move it. I have had 3 sets of Chinese branded wheels. 1 from a Chinese wheel builder, 1 from Elilee and 1 from Craft. Over 18,000km. 1 had a warranty issue which was promptly addressed.
7:56 RRRRRRRIIIIIINNNNGGGGGGGGG
customers wanted disc, fair enough. wider wheels were possible well before disc brakes were a thing. there a certainly advantages to disc brakes but it's bull ox like this that's keeping the discussion alive... imo...
Although it true that you could have wider wheels with rim breaks, you would need to buy a new set of calipers if you switched to significantly different wheels.
@@squngy0 sure but even then most rim brake frames wouldn't allow it. the new frames do and they could have been fittted with v brakes or calipers for wider rims could have been manufactured. granted they would have sucked in the wet but to say it's thanks to discs you can ride wider rims is only half true
Part of the need for wider tyres is increased traction, because otherwise there is no point in discs. Rim brakes are plenty powerful enough.
so well-produced - I'm always impressed by the quality.
Hook-less a future? It's about to die as fast as it came to life.
5:05. That graph. Using grams and calling it force give me the impression you don't know what you are talking about, together with Hunt. My guess is that the numbers were converted from Force (Newtons btw) to grams by multiplying by 10,000. So any differences are very much in the noise and likely a lot less than repeatability (doing the same thing again to see if you get the same results). And hook-less rims are a bad joke. You really should try harder here.
Hookless is a joke
It id superficial design trent, it is like jeans, for decates ther were just blue, then black, then washed out with huge holes... It makes no diffrence aerodynamics besides the look. Proven fact.
This material cannot be recycled and they are not durable, production is pain in the @$$ for employees
and for environment, think twice before you buy, weight and speed of your bike can be compensated in a different way
"it does after all work very well on cars" .... What an ignorant comment.
Be VERY VERY CAREFUL buying chinese wheels. Ive had sets of Ican and Superteam wheels EXPLODE while not even being ridden at only 60 psi with a 25 mm tire! (Continental gp4000ll). Be horribly careful. Windbreak and Eagle and Rockbros are the same.
You should take more care with what you say. 'chinese wheels' is not a brand, it is a lazy and meaningless phrase, as is 'horribly careful'. You sound like a conspiracy theorist. Maybe you have some useful insights, who knows.
@notreal-pl7mz everything you said was meaningless to me, as you sound incredibly judgy. Horribly careful is not lazy, nor is it meaningless. In fact, it is said all the time. I don't know where you come from, but thats commonly said.
@notreal-pl7mz also, im fully aware Chinese wheels is not a brand. Its a category of very dangerous wheels that are as cheaply made as a walmart bike. If you take time to read my comments you will notice I mention several brands. Fake brands, fake wheels. And I definitely don't sound like a conspiracy theorist as again if you took time to read my comments or experiences with carbon wheels on MANY forums, you would know they have put many people in the hospital. Again, my father was riding a Continental gp 4000 ll tubed at 60 psi. The front wheel exploded. He wasn't even on it. And yes the Guage was correct. I have a tire pressure checker, pumped up many tires before and after just fine. It's a Topeak Joeblow booster pump. Pump mode. Don't buy Chinese wheels.
Just amazing, all these wonderful wheels and still no one has ever touched on the Subject of "Rotational Balance"... Think about this...... 50% of your bike is static, while the other 50% of your bike spins at a high rate of speed..! Don't you think if you balance the spinning 50% there is quite a gain in performance, especially at high speeds?!
I've done the testing, and the performance of balanced wheels is OFF THE CHARTS... I can take a set of good Aerodynamic Chinese carbon wheels, balance them, and they will Blow the Doors Off all these wheels you are reviewing here. It just makes no sense giving these wheels all this "high performance" credit when they don't even have any type of wheel balance (system).
Scientifically the Performance facts are simple, a wheel that is out of balance, oscillates at speed and creates "interrupted inertia" which eats watts l like a big bowl of Lucky Charms.
Meanwhile, a rotational balanced wheel(set) creates pure smooth flowing inertia. And when you combine smooth flowing inertia with good aerodynamics, BINGO! You end up with the fastest, best handling wheels on the planet.
Here's another interesting fact... If you're going to rate the performance on the wheels you are reviewing you first have to level the playing field by balancing them first, because some carbon wheels are more out of balance then others, and ROVAL are the worst of the worst.
Would you purchase a high performance car or race wheels if the wheels were not balanced???? I REST MY CASE.
That sounds very logical! What is the process for balancing a bike wheel?
@@markhilborn3786 Hello Mark, Here's a 10 step guide on how to balance your carbon wheels. Before I start I want you to place your bike on a work stand, put it in a high gear and spin your rear wheel to a high speed and feel the powerful oscillation forces that are shaking your bike. If by luck your wheels are fairly balanced the oscillation pulses will not be so powerful. But if by luck the wheel is very unbalanced the shaking pulses will be pretty powerful. At this point it does not matter if you have a $500 Chinese or a $3K Princeton wheel-set, if they are unbalanced their performance is going to be pure garbage, especially at high speeds. And it gets worse, because if you think about it the front wheel is also doing the same thing! Now you have two unbalanced wheels causing massive handling and rolling efficiency problems at high speeds... YUK! So how in the heck can you judge a wheel's performance if you first don't balance them to level the playing field when doing a performance comparison. They need to be balanced first, End Of Story...
FYI: there are four methods to balance a bicycle wheel, but this is the basic method, that is easy and very effective.
1. Tools and supplies needed. Wheel truing stand / Roll of fishing lead or Golf balance lead / Black duct-tape / Hammer / wire cutting pliers / White out pen to mark the wheel / Gram weight scale / Rubbing alcohol / Paper towels.
2. Fully assemble the wheel with the tire etc like you are going to ride it. If it is Tubeless do not add the sealant until after you first balance the wheel dry.
3. Never assume that the heavy spot is going to be at the air-valve, when in fact it can be anywhere.
4. Mount the fully assembled wheel on the truing stand and gently tap on the truing stand to help the heavy spot on the wheel to rotate and settle at the bottom. Repeat this step several times to confirm that the heavy spot always settles at the same spot at the bottom.
5. With the white out pen mark the heavy spot at the bottom with an H (heavy), then mark the very top of the wheel with an L (light).
6. Rotate the H & L to a 3 and 9 O'clock position. If you let go of the wheel the H will want to rotate back down. If it rotates quickly that means you are going to need quite a bit of lead. But if it rotates slowly it will need less lead.
7. So to balance the wheel rotate the H & L to the 3 and 9 O'clock position, and this time temporarily tape on some lead to the L side. You want to add or subtract lead on the L side until the wheel remains steady at the 3 and 9 O'clock position. To check if it remains steady at the 3 and 9 O'clock position, tap on the truing stand to make sure it stays steady. If not add or subtract lead until it does.
NOTE: You want to place the lead on the side of the rim as close as you can to the outer edge by the tire.
8. Remove the weights you temporarily taped on the L location and weigh them on the gram scale. Cut one solid piece of lead to equal the same weight, and then hammer it into a flat shape as thin as a dime.
9. Temporarily tape the one piece of flattened lead on the L location to double check that the wheel remains steady at the 3 and 9 O'clock position.
10. Clean the rim's L position with a paper towel & alcohol and carefully tape down the flattened lead on the side of the rim with the black duct tape. Make sure you balance both front and rear wheels.
BINGO! You just balanced your wheels...!
Now put the rear wheel back on your bike and spin it to a high speed and Guess what? The bike does not shake anymore. Now the bike and all those expensive watt saving bits can do their job with out being robbed of their performance by some stupid unbalanced wheel-set.
So I just hope that from now on, when doing a wheel comparison test, they first balance the wheels so as to level the playing field. Sincerely Dan Sotelo