EMI protection is because people would take a piezo lighter, and try to glitch the machine to get a payout. The battery backed RAM is there to store things like the random number generator output, so that power cycling the machine does not result in a predictable play. It also stores stats on payouts, and is used for the alterable elements, like winning payout percentages, odds and such. Storing the random number ensures that it will be random with each play, as it will only repeat again when the pseudo random generator rolls over fully, and that is likely clocked from the zero crossings, as a convenient clock source. Clock is also used as part of randomness, being fed into the pseudo random system as a varying input that takes 10 years to repeat itself, but which changes every second. The state of the random number generator is latched when you press start or pull the handle, the rest is theatrics, the number is set then, and is modified by the payout percentages as to which win if any is going to be allowed. Zero cross is there for generating timing pulses for lighting displays, so they can be changed at zero crossings, reducing mains noise generated by the machine, as those typically are driven by triacs to keep the power side simple and robust, and if transistors or FET's they still run off an unsmoothed full wave rectified supply. Makes the bulbs last a long time even with a lot of switching on and off. IIRC the default for most machines is to give back exactly half the money over a long period, so you need accurate tallies of payout amounts stored in RAM for this, but this can be changed by the owner via a serial interface. That lithium battery will probably last a while, even powered off, though better would be to place a low leakage Schottky diode in series with the charge side of the cell, to drop the cell voltage to 3.9V max. Will reduce capacity a lot, but the cell will last a lot longer, never reaching 100% SOC, and staying at around half capacity and 60% charge, which it will survive for a longer time. RAM will survive, probably will work and retain data to around 2V, which is long after the battery protection has disconnected. In any case, will only self discharge slowly, and there probably last around a year with no power.
I never saw the Hi Voltage spark attack vector produce a payout but I saw on many occasions, the credit counter being incremented to provide free plays. This attack was very successful in the late 80s and early 90s, designers got better at preventing the attack but I suspect it wasn't just a hardware solution IE it's not difficult to write code that tests for impossible credit increments EG from zero credits to 40 in under a second. Bulbs never lasted a long time in fruit machines or pintables because they were overdriven for very short periods of time giving the illusion of being brighter. This technique resulted in dry joints, burnt and brittle looms and distorted support bulb housings. Bulbs were the bane of the arcade engineer's life. Here in the UK, not only is not possible but it's also illegal to set a machine to pay out 50% of the time. New machines from manufacturers were always set to the minimum legal requirement which, back then, was 72% Interestingly, the algorithm for percentages was different for arcades which paid out more frequently with lower cash values whilst pubs, clubs and other outlets would pay out less frequently but with bigger cash payouts.
Kevin, I am by no means an electronics technician, but I have tried to learn a basic understanding of how electronic devices work. Surprisingly, I was able understand what you described while fixing the slot machine board! Awesome repair video. BTW, the front door sensor you built for me last year has continued to work flawlessly! It has been close to a year since I had you build it and the battery has only dropped once, from 4.0V to 3.9V! I believe it will last five or more years at this rate! Thanks again!
What are the product details on the battery used (voltage/capacity/size) and the charger circuit board (name size etc), I'm looking to source these to upgrade mine but want to make sure I get the correct ones.
Stupid question. I hit the “cash out” button with not enough coins in the hopper. Now it says “call attendant - reset during payout” any idea how to fix this??
hi mate , im in qld australia and just brought a pokie machine ( slot machine ) and it has a boot issue , prev owner played it for years and put it in the corner of his garage , if you could assist me i would really appreciate it , im about to set it up and remove the main board to take a look , i have pictures of the machine if u can help please let me know
Afternoon. I have a ballys black gold wild quick hits machine it gets halfway through the loading process and will not load the top screen. Not sure how to change the battery or what to do. Would be happy to pay you if you help get it fixed
Great Video, Kevin, Thanks On a second note: I have a Bally 5500 and can hear the coins dropping into the hopper but it won't register the credit. The Comparitor and Coin optics are fine and I'm getting No Error Codes... Anyone have any ideas?????
hi we're a pcb manufacturer,can you pls put our video and website link on your youtube channel,we can pay you for that,if you're interested,pls leave us your email!
Kevin I'm a long time viewer and subscriber...really get a lot out of your videos..for some.reason I always think of Leonardo DiCaprio when I see you..
Looking for some help with my Lucky 8 Lines slot machine. The screen itself will not come on. I can hear everything in the background working correctly, just no picture, black like the machine is not turned on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a IGT S2000 Double Diamonds 25 cent quarter machine from Balley 90's in storage with no way to hook up or plug in due to no electricity. When I moved it would light up but the reel would not spin. What are your thoughts on a fix? After watching your video I do remember when my husband was alive he fixed it and we ordered a board from e-Bay and everything worked and then we would shut off when not playing it and sometimes just kept it on. Do you think since it was just left on, it might have just drained the battery? I don't know how to find the back board on my machine. Maybe I should hire someone. If so, how do I find a slot machine tech?
Maybe you can help me ... i have a Ballys Roaring 20's Slot Machine from 1993 ... it has a Cash Box but i do not know how to open it ... there is a door on the side of the machine thats opens next to the bill acceptor but where do i get the money out of???
That's a dangerous solution, the battery goes dead if it's below 2.8 volts and can go it to flames or explode if will be charged with 500ma from zero and force the battery to 4.2 volts. I would not use that kind of solution with li-ion or li-po.
That is why the little BMS is there, limits current and voltage, and the battery also has the ultra common DW01 charge controller in it as well, which will not allow fast charging, and protect the cell against being discharged too deep. But even so, taking the cell to 1V is not going to kill it, reduce capacity yes, but it will charge up again. The killer for these cells is reverse charging them in a series string, or charging past 4.4V, where they plate out lithium metal in the separator, or plate it out in the wrong place.
@@SeanBZA Not only the battery - the used TP4056-Board is also a module variant with additional DW01, so even a "unprotected" cell would be not problem. The only thing I would have changed is the charging current. These boards are usually shipped with a 1A configuration which seems a bit high for this configuration.
@@adlerweb Good point. Might want to pull out one of those TP4056 and see what resister it has on it to be safe and be sure the default is 500ma. 1amp should be ok for a 1000ma battery as its right on the line but those are some really tight tolerances and I am highly doubtful of that little thing is REALLY 1000ma. The capacity loss over time due to constantly hitting the low voltage cutoff as stated abovie might also exacerbate the problem.
Don't LiPo batteries have built in protection DW01 for, Over voltage, Short circuit and over discharge protection. In my last project I used a 5vdc wall wart with a series 1N4001 diode to charge a 300mah LiPo battery which then feed a 3.3v LDO voltage regulator. Is the BMS TP4056 needed???
EMI protection is because people would take a piezo lighter, and try to glitch the machine to get a payout. The battery backed RAM is there to store things like the random number generator output, so that power cycling the machine does not result in a predictable play. It also stores stats on payouts, and is used for the alterable elements, like winning payout percentages, odds and such. Storing the random number ensures that it will be random with each play, as it will only repeat again when the pseudo random generator rolls over fully, and that is likely clocked from the zero crossings, as a convenient clock source. Clock is also used as part of randomness, being fed into the pseudo random system as a varying input that takes 10 years to repeat itself, but which changes every second. The state of the random number generator is latched when you press start or pull the handle, the rest is theatrics, the number is set then, and is modified by the payout percentages as to which win if any is going to be allowed.
Zero cross is there for generating timing pulses for lighting displays, so they can be changed at zero crossings, reducing mains noise generated by the machine, as those typically are driven by triacs to keep the power side simple and robust, and if transistors or FET's they still run off an unsmoothed full wave rectified supply. Makes the bulbs last a long time even with a lot of switching on and off.
IIRC the default for most machines is to give back exactly half the money over a long period, so you need accurate tallies of payout amounts stored in RAM for this, but this can be changed by the owner via a serial interface.
That lithium battery will probably last a while, even powered off, though better would be to place a low leakage Schottky diode in series with the charge side of the cell, to drop the cell voltage to 3.9V max. Will reduce capacity a lot, but the cell will last a lot longer, never reaching 100% SOC, and staying at around half capacity and 60% charge, which it will survive for a longer time. RAM will survive, probably will work and retain data to around 2V, which is long after the battery protection has disconnected. In any case, will only self discharge slowly, and there probably last around a year with no power.
wow, this is awesome! gonna pin this comment!
I never saw the Hi Voltage spark attack vector produce a payout but I saw on many occasions, the credit counter being incremented to provide free plays. This attack was very successful in the late 80s and early 90s, designers got better at preventing the attack but I suspect it wasn't just a hardware solution IE it's not difficult to write code that tests for impossible credit increments EG from zero credits to 40 in under a second.
Bulbs never lasted a long time in fruit machines or pintables because they were overdriven for very short periods of time giving the illusion of being brighter. This technique resulted in dry joints, burnt and brittle looms and distorted support bulb housings. Bulbs were the bane of the arcade engineer's life.
Here in the UK, not only is not possible but it's also illegal to set a machine to pay out 50% of the time. New machines from manufacturers were always set to the minimum legal requirement which, back then, was 72% Interestingly, the algorithm for percentages was different for arcades which paid out more frequently with lower cash values whilst pubs, clubs and other outlets would pay out less frequently but with bigger cash payouts.
Do you know about the Bally ACSC system, Good morning
Kevin, I am by no means an electronics technician, but I have tried to learn a basic understanding of how electronic devices work. Surprisingly, I was able understand what you described while fixing the slot machine board! Awesome repair video. BTW, the front door sensor you built for me last year has continued to work flawlessly! It has been close to a year since I had you build it and the battery has only dropped once, from 4.0V to 3.9V! I believe it will last five or more years at this rate! Thanks again!
It's now about 3 years since this mod was made...how did the battery perform? Still recharging itself?
Hey where did you get those schematics, I could really use them please.
What are the product details on the battery used (voltage/capacity/size) and the charger circuit board (name size etc), I'm looking to source these to upgrade mine but want to make sure I get the correct ones.
I know how you feel. I get anything electrotonic related thrown at me from everyone asking me to fix it hahaha
PLEASE CAN YOU HELP I HAVE SCORPION 4 BOARD ERROR 26 REEL 6 THINK ITS BOARD BUT WHAT PART ON BOARD RESISTER TRANSITER ETC THANK YOU
Stupid question. I hit the “cash out” button with not enough coins in the hopper. Now it says “call attendant - reset during payout” any idea how to fix this??
hello if the battery is low? could that cause the machine to have a black screen but still make noises that it is on?
Which layout technique use in this board please elaborate .
hi mate , im in qld australia and just brought a pokie machine ( slot machine ) and it has a boot issue , prev owner played it for years and put it in the corner of his garage , if you could assist me i would really appreciate it , im about to set it up and remove the main board to take a look , i have pictures of the machine if u can help please let me know
Afternoon. I have a ballys black gold wild quick hits machine it gets halfway through the loading process and will not load the top screen. Not sure how to change the battery or what to do. Would be happy to pay you if you help get it fixed
How do I fix my Cherry 96 , the credit button won't work and the lights on the buttons won't work
Great Video, Kevin, Thanks
On a second note: I have a Bally 5500 and can hear the coins dropping into the hopper but it won't register the credit.
The Comparitor and Coin optics are fine and I'm getting No Error Codes...
Anyone have any ideas?????
Did you find a solution to this issue? I have the same issue and nothing on New Life Games helped.
If the customer keeps the machine powered up 24/7, this battery will probably last longer
i wish i was that smart
So the designer put in a EMI circuit to prevent cheating...can you dig deep into how this logic board controls each payout lol
My cherry96 buttons won't work or light up how do I fix that
hi we're a pcb manufacturer,can you pls put our video and website link on your youtube channel,we can pay you for that,if you're interested,pls leave us your email!
Kevin I'm a long time viewer and subscriber...really get a lot out of your videos..for some.reason I always think of Leonardo DiCaprio when I see you..
I wonder if it would be possible to map the structure of the Virtual Reel?
Looking for some help with my Lucky 8 Lines slot machine. The screen itself will not come on. I can hear everything in the background working correctly, just no picture, black like the machine is not turned on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I’ve got a Bally black velvet copyright 2007 it’s saying SVGALIB Failed to initialize and idea what that means? I can’t find anything online.
Kev, thanks or sharing this one with us all. Quite informative seeing how the various security methods were incorporated into the design of the board.
Do you fix fire link boards?
I have a IGT S2000 Double Diamonds 25 cent quarter machine from Balley 90's in storage with no way to hook up or plug in due to no electricity. When I moved it would light up but the reel would not spin. What are your thoughts on a fix? After watching your video I do remember when my husband was alive he fixed it and we ordered a board from e-Bay and everything worked and then we would shut off when not playing it and sometimes just kept it on. Do you think since it was just left on, it might have just drained the battery? I don't know how to find the back board on my machine. Maybe I should hire someone. If so, how do I find a slot machine tech?
Hi , i got a bally slot machine serie 5000. I get error 5.5. Can Someone help me??
I need someone to check mine I think the on/off switch is no good I will pay to have it fixed
how much would u charge for your services pls?
could you install an NV ram and make a battery unnecessary?
Awesome!
Excellent
Maybe you can help me ... i have a Ballys Roaring 20's Slot Machine from 1993 ... it has a Cash Box but i do not know how to open it ... there is a door on the side of the machine thats opens next to the bill acceptor but where do i get the money out of???
That's a dangerous solution, the battery goes dead if it's below 2.8 volts and can go it to flames or explode if will be charged with 500ma from zero and force the battery to 4.2 volts. I would not use that kind of solution with li-ion or li-po.
this battery has internal protection built in
That is why the little BMS is there, limits current and voltage, and the battery also has the ultra common DW01 charge controller in it as well, which will not allow fast charging, and protect the cell against being discharged too deep. But even so, taking the cell to 1V is not going to kill it, reduce capacity yes, but it will charge up again. The killer for these cells is reverse charging them in a series string, or charging past 4.4V, where they plate out lithium metal in the separator, or plate it out in the wrong place.
@@SeanBZA Not only the battery - the used TP4056-Board is also a module variant with additional DW01, so even a "unprotected" cell would be not problem. The only thing I would have changed is the charging current. These boards are usually shipped with a 1A configuration which seems a bit high for this configuration.
@@adlerweb Good point. Might want to pull out one of those TP4056 and see what resister it has on it to be safe and be sure the default is 500ma. 1amp should be ok for a 1000ma battery as its right on the line but those are some really tight tolerances and I am highly doubtful of that little thing is REALLY 1000ma. The capacity loss over time due to constantly hitting the low voltage cutoff as stated abovie might also exacerbate the problem.
Don't LiPo batteries have built in protection DW01 for, Over voltage, Short circuit and over discharge protection. In my last project I used a 5vdc wall wart with a series 1N4001 diode to charge a 300mah LiPo battery which then feed a 3.3v LDO voltage regulator. Is the BMS TP4056 needed???