If you want accurate sound quality then sealed is the way to go. If you want ridiculously loud bass and don’t care about sound quality then ported. Sealed can hit hard, you just need more power and a sub that can handle that power!
A properly designed ported sub enclosure, with sufficient cu. Ft. Sq. And ported low enough not only hits harder per/watt of power, but also sound absolutely phenomenal, again, when built Right!
Yonny Nolls that's still not going to work the vibration is going to make everything inside your car shake it's simple as that, if you don't want the vibration you should just use 6×9's👍👍
Not everyone wants to shake the shit out of their vehicles. Some people just want a little bit more bass that 6x9s can't really provide, at least compared to a decent 12. I, on the other hand, love to shake the shit out of my vehicle. Mostly because, the closer I get to my 30s, the more of an asshole I become, and the less I care about other peoples' opinions.
you can test for yourself what sealed is kinda like. Just filled your ported box with POLLY. I did this, and istantly, INSTANTLY, I noticed the bass quality difference. A polly, ported box done RIGHT is actually my favorite. You get that loud bass, but the polly makes it more tight. the Bass notes are clean with the polly, the bass note doesn't resonate into the next. Helps to clean that muddy sound.
I second this. A poly filled ported box sounds excellent in my opinion. I even throw some in the port itself (you have to get creative sometimes so the poly or insulation doesn’t blow out the port.) It’s like you get the best of both worlds. You get the increased output that a ported box normally gives you with a very controlled sound like sealed gives you. It might not be quite as tight and quick as a sealed box, but in my experience sealed is only the bees knees when the car is parked or you have lots of subs with lots of power. Once road noise comes into play, the subtle, delicate sound a sealed box gives you goes out the window as certain notes get drowned out. Not so with a poly filled ported box. You hear and fee every note. On the other hand, a ported box without poly usually has some annoying ringing and there’s a few notes that just aren’t quite there SQ-wise.
The sound quality of the subs makes depends on the amount of air that's able to move freely. A subs location is key to deciding whether you should go with a sealed or ported box. If you place an enclosure in the trunk. It will sound different compared to a hatchback, wagon or Suv. That’s because the there is less free air in the trunk compared to the hatch/SUV, where the air can travel back and forth without the impedance of the walls and seats. A ported box concentrates the internal air at a single focal point, then releases that energy like a shot gun throughout the cabin or trunk. That causes a "boomy" sound effect people refer too. The Sealed box relies on the movement of the external air. As the Sub moves back and forth, it creates a negative and positive pressure. That pressure difference is what causes your interior space to resonate and enables you to “feel’’ the bass more. The tradeoff being the Sealed box will not sound as loud as the ported box. That’s due to the energy loss of the sub having to create positive pressure within the box. However, the +/- pressure within the box is what causes the quick response or “accurate” bass. The ported box does not have this buildup of spring pressure but instead relies on the enclosure to focus the internal air at a specific frequency range.
@@andyn333 I like my sealed cause when I play at medium volume always, the bass pounds good. But when your looking for that long throw booom, you go ported to make the bass feel smooth flowing vs sealed pounding the bass that hits and then drops off because the air in a sealed box stays inside and does not flow out.
I've always been a sealed box guy. Back in the day I had two 15" Kicker Solo Baric in my Cutlass. Powered by a PPI A1200.2 Art Series. Shook the rearview mirror off of the windshield. Had ported and bandpass before and it never did that shit. It would rattle your eyeballs and you couldn't see straight, or breathe for that matter lol. Sealed always hit harder to me. Actually still have two of the PPI A1200.2 amps left. I always swore by PPI back in the day.
most people out there just want loud bass.. they dont care about the sound quality. i personally find that my 12 inch sub in an sealed box has more than enough bass. i like a more flat frequency response though and the sealed box makes amazing job and in my opinion. it is closer to what the most music producers vision their songs to be heard.
If all you listen to is rap then go ported. If you listen to everything else..go sealed with a 750 or more rms sub or 2. And a good amp and call it a day. Sealed boxes are so accurate and tight and excel in sq. A ported box built properly can be good too but i found only certain genres sounded good on ported boxes whereas sealed boxes played everything well and with great sq.
With my small knowledge of what ports do I think the sealed will be more consistent but overall quieter while the ported will have some louder peaks but also fall off at a point
Sound deadening mat does wonders! I am the same way man, I had my car tore apart three or 4 different times trying to play with the mat and some other insulating materials. I love that deep thud/boom u get with no other noises. Rattling also will have u thinking ur speakers are blown as well. Lol it's enough to make a sane man mad! Lbvs
This is actually a great video because your explanation was so easy to follow. Odd that you only demoed the ported box and not the sealed one. Also, you literally can't be a basshead and not have your car rattle. That would be like taking up cigarette smoking and not wanting to smell like cigarette smoke.
Agreed, for the price and simplicity of them it is a very nice addition unless your head unit has subwoofer control built in then it's kinda pointless.
I love ported box, if you take a seal box out of your car it doesn't give you the amount of bass that the ported box would give you outside the car. Ported box is a good all rounder. But it depends on what you like. I love reggae and hip hop so ported is my choice.
Misleading, an amplifier has an easier time powering a sealed sub, the sub uses less power when sealed because the trapped air acts like a spring, its only quieter because the back half of the sub isn't loaded by the port. thats why amps run a lot cooler powering sealed setups.
while that sealed box *is* small for a sealed box for a 12" sub (going from 1 cu ft to 1.4 cu ft with a 12" sub with decent parameters gives noticeably more usable output in the 35-45Hz range), that ported box is actually *not* huge for a ported box for a 12" sub (around 1.5 cu ft after port displacement) and again it's likely tuned to around 45Hz. with a 12" sub with decent parameters, you'd really be looking at 2.2 cu ft after port displacement and tuned to ~30Hz for full potential, which would noticeably give more usable output in the 25Hz-45Hz range, so with a technically small box relative to the sub size, you (general you) are really missing out on the sub's full potential and a lot of low frequency extension, and in that case should consider instead stepping down a sub size and going with a 10" sub in a 1.65 cu ft ported box tuned to ~33Hz, or if that"s "too big", stepping down a sub size again and going with an 8" sub in a 1.1 cu ft ported box tuned to ~35Hz, for example. good video though
Heres what I do. 50hz fs and up put in a sealed box. 50hz fs and below put in a ported box. All my midbass component speakers are in custom sealed door pods. Specs of a given driver helps to determine what type of box to put it in. Most subwoofers can be placed in both. But some are more specific and are either designed for a sealed or ported box. So pay attention. It comes down to application really.
Good point! I'll add, most GOOD Subs will come with a Spec Sheet.... Besides telling you what you just bought, it should explain what the minimum amount of Volume that your Box needs to be. Bigger would be better - but TOO Big will leave you with boomy, muddy Bass. It SHOULD tell you Box Volume for both Sealed and Ported. Ported Boxes nearly always need more Volume than a Sealed Box. In a Ported Box, Port dimensions are as critical as Box Volume!! If you don't know what length/width/diameter/wall thickness you'll need, there are thousands of websites that can offer some direction. .... If you're not going to Match the Port with the Box, desired Frequency, or to the Speaker itself - don't even bother! Just get a Sealed Box of the right Volume, and be done. AND - if you're not going to make sure that your Sealed Box is SEALED..... again don't bother. Get your $20 Box on EvilBay, and call it finished. Taking a little extra time and money, you CAN build your own Box, that will Blow Your Mind!!!
If you’re going to get a ported box, you have to give up a bit more space with a bigger enclosure to really see the full benefit of ported. Also, not sure what sub you’re using, but for a ported enclosure, it is usually recommended to go with a higher power sub (1000+ rms), improving the movement of air. For lower powered subs a sealed enclosure will usually see better results.
Alllllrighty. So first off , good on you for making a vid for those who are looking into getting sound. Having said that after listening to your setup , your amp needs a major upgrade. If that’s all you’re getting from a ported box with a 12.. you’re lacking power dude. Here’s what I did. Not that you’d care but for anyone reading the comments. Here you go. Started off with the head unit .. I feel like that’s a very important first upgrade. Then I moved onto the mids and tweeters. Lastly I did the sub and amp. My music taste is hella diverse. I do tend to lean towards rap. So .. I got myself a “ entry level “ pioneer d311 d4 running at 2 ohms on a 700w rms monoblock. It works for essentially all music genres but it lacks the low drops that you get with a ported. So what I did was I got myself a 8000w dvc 12” comp sub that can handle far more than my amp can provide ( I like knowing I can’t hurt it ). That’s in a ported enclosure built to spec .. this allows me to chop and change box types / subs depending on my mood. Best of both worlds. A fair warning to those who are venturing into car audio or more specifically subs. Although a sealed enclosure is less prone to causing damage to your subwoofer. It can happen. There is a point where you can demand too much from it and essentially overheat the voice coils with power. Ported enclosures are definitely touch and go. Unless you’re running a spl subwoofer that was ultimately designed for good excursion. You will bottom your sub out and clip the voice coil. So be careful and always have a sub that’s either stronger than your amp by at least 100-200w rms. Or limit your amps gain to match the power value of your subwoofer. This will prevent you from overpowering your investment. Cheers.
Im using 2x15 Cabinet for my guitar. It has TWO 3" ports. TWO of them. Seems 1 might even be too much air. - I need to Seal it, is there a simple way to seal up the existing port holes??
Have always built my own boxes sealed of course, to spec and put more power than needed to run them as you should amyhow, then tune the amp, not an expert but have ran old school Cerwin Vegas, Rockford HE 2, directed audio 12's in a 4 runner with 3k watts, they bounced the wipers off the windshield playing that 3, 6 Mafia
Okay Yonny, To solve the problem of rattles. This can become very expensive if you listen to the shop guys. Obviously because they want to sell their product which has been marked up at least 10% on the product itself. Mainly a specific product that has the market cornered and I'm referring to Dynamat. I personally think it is a great WASTE OF MONEY!!!! I have a much cheaper, easier to install and much better sound deadening!!! However it is still time consuming. I used, spray foam, in ALL empty cavities including inside the doors and deck lids along with anywhere behind the panels after removal. This product is easily applied and after it has dried, it's easy to cut or trim away from any vital parts, windows, and wires. Then I bought a couple of cases of under car sound deadening rubberized spray paint. Spray the backside of all panels careful not to spray switches or motors. The next cheap trick is to go to the junkyard and pull any make model vehicles factory sound deadening backing material, and a can of spray adhesive. Fill in any and all empty areas. I even doubled the existing materials. Now after panels have dried and are ready for installation go to hardware store to the plumbing section and buy rubber washers or valve seats. Install these both behind and in front of all speaker screws. I guarantee you that if you take care and stay vigilant the reward is WELL worth it. My Ford taurus sounds like a Mercedes Benz it's so quite. Another positive is ability to play music louder without disturbing the public. An extra bit of information about clean up. Acetone for rubber paint, and I found the easiest way to get foam off is to let it dry then use pressure washer. Definitely want latex gloves as well and doesn't hurt to use painters tape and thrifty nickels to cover the things you do not wish to get sprayed.
I don't think your system sucks. Ignore the assholes. It's a better system than what I started out with. I used to have a 10" powered subwoofer that I bought from Wal-Mart. It was one of those Dual branded ones. Had it in my CRX, before I sold it. And then, after I got the minivan, I moved onto a 12" Dual in a sealed box. It wasn't until just this year that I started getting serious about upgrading my car audio. And that's because I got great deals on used equipment from friends, and around town. Currently, I am rocking two Alpine Type R 12s, and two Kicker Comp 12s, with each set being in their own ported box. All four are being powered by a "1200 watt" Pioneer amp (only pushes up to 500 RMS at 4 ohms), that I got with the Kickers for $100 with the box. I already had the Alpines in my van, which I had also got for only $100 with the box they are in. So my buddy and I just threw them in together, and they sound really good. Even though I have a small, separate, amp up front for my door speakers, this combo can easily overpower the highs and mids. Thank god for an in-line volume knob. Point here is that everyone starts somewhere. Most of us probably started with little crap systems that nobody else cared about, but we loved. Once you get more serious about it, look around and you'll find amazing deals on great equipment, usually being sold by someone who doesn't know the true value of what they have, or just needs the money. As far as the rattling goes, I think rattling is one of the best parts of the hobby. Not everyone's cup of tea, of course. But my wife and I love it when we can get everything to rattle.
I started with a CRAIG AM/FM *Cassette!!!* 😱😫 For further effect, I added one of those "Professional Amp/EQs" that claimed *250 Watts* even though it was smaller than my hand. It MAY have had 12-14 Watts per Channel - with an UNGODLY amount of Distortion!! If THAT wasn't enough, you mounted it by DRILLING HOLES into your Dashboard or Console, and screwed it in using the supplied UGLY L-Brackets!!! It was 1983, I was an IDIOT Teenager. In my Long Life, I don't think I've even SEEN a more CRAP Car "Stereo"!!!
Mine isn't, sadly. That was my first teenage stereo! The standard Stereo in the cheapest Car today, is 10X better than that POS!! 35 years ago,we thought THAT was the Shit..... Now we know it was just SHIT!!
Lol man I started off with systems in home, with a speaker system with a 4inch sub, then a RCA system with a 6.5. Now I have 2 Skar 15s on 3K. So everyone has to start somewhere
shit I'm 15 started with an ds18 8 inch select series sub still have now I have 2 dual electronics 12s in my room in a ported box for home audio and then I've had an 60 watt home amp that blew cause two wires touched but it's easy to replace it's a 22 buck home amp I have another on the way with a pair of 3.5 inch tweeters and crossovers oh and the amp that's powering the subs is a 100watt RMS amp and it over heats like hell cause it's doing its job and pushing them bitches and I'll say that as my first car audio system I'd want 6 CT sounds 18s I forgot what series they are but they're 600 watts RMS then for amps I'd use 2 1500 watt RMS audiopipe amps and a cheap lil 4 channel mids and highs amp and mids and highs would be CT sounds 8 inch mids and probably a pioneer head unit and 2 xs power batteries with 2 or 4 mechman alternators oh all the subs in the trunk of a 2010 or 12 crown Vic LMAO
For 12's, use ported. I like a single 10" in a sealed box (0.50 cu.ft.), because I can shake the ground with a 250w rms Alpine sub. Also signal-to-noise is important. i.e. HU: 105dB SUB: 86.5dB AMP: 70dB gives me 261.5dB( 10" range 260dB to 270dB) Max volume: 9. With a 12-inch, if you can find a 120dB head unit you would have up-and-off as volume choices. Everyone goes for peak overpower, stay on budget and overpower between 20 watts to 100 watts (from RMS).
@ChevyboyCaprice_ it actually does increase spl. you're probably not noticing it. Lowering 1 window opposite of the listener increases spl, hence why tests are run with different requirements. Some ask to close all doors and windows. Some do 1 door open or both. I've personally found that having all windows down lowers my spl
Just get a custom built box built to your ear satisfaction. If you like tight bass but loud get a ported box built to 40hz because you get both of best worlds
I'd say a 33. 40 may get some port noise or sum, it'd get low but not that low. I'd go with a 33, highs and low. If you only want highs, sealed, lows, 26 tune
You play at low level you are exercising the diaphragm so you can just see it moving as its not been used out of the factory, its like doing100mtr sprint straight out bed without loosening up ya tear or rip something!!!!!
I know people are gonna hate but I used to love extreme bass when I was younger . Now that I have been around car audio for over 30 years and finally settled down and had kids and family I truly feel like 2 - 15 inch 1000 watt rms subs in a sealed box tuned at about 35 to 45hz on a 1500 to 2000 watt rms amp with crossover set at 60 - 80hz gives you the best sounding bass that will get loud as fu@# but you can play at lower volume and still have enough sound quality and bass to satisfy even the bass head in you . I hit 140 db easy if I want to turn it up and it plays every note not just the super low notes . If you try that on a ported low tuned box you will get that funky burnt voice coil smell . If you try smaller subs you wont get deep low notes unless its ported and tuned low .
I just recently installed an aftermarket radio in my car and I’m very new to car audio. The radio I installed is a Pioneer FH-X700BT and it has a 5 band equalizer, which I don’t really know how to work lol. I want to have no or just barely any bass coming out of my door speakers but still to sound good cause I want the majority of bass to be coming from my sub, and the radio has a subwoofer controller, so what settings should I have the EQ at? Cause it’s not like most simple radios where it says bass, treble, etc and you can just adjust it like that. It has different HZ (80hz, 250hz, 800hz, etc.) Which don’t understand, so if anyone could help and explain it would be much appreciated. For now I just have the Equalizer on the preset “Vocal” option.
The only reason why this video has soo many Dislikes is because theres so much explaining and “opinions” said and audio heads think their always right, lets be honest here
Dude, get you a cheap but effective system. I have 2 10 inch xplods on a 800.2 watt amp. This shit hits really good with a sealed box. And I only paid about 100 for everything . It's on a 4 gauge amp kit and my stereo is not after market.
Tasty Fungus I have 2 10" kicker comp Cs on a 600w amp in a sealed enclosure but its not producing. Im not sure how to make it stronger without upgrading the sub or amp
Kickers are garbage bro. I've popped a few of those with 1k amp. Maybe if the kickers were old school , that's a different story. New kickers in my opinion, no good
to fix rattles buy a nice and well built car first, second use sound deadener material to lower the amount of vibrations lastly you can use foam and other materials to insulate panels and wires that may rattle.
The rattle will never go away with subs, all my cars have had subs and even a brand new Lexus rattles after a few months of listening. You think it rattles bad now wait a year later.
You need to ditch that prefab box and have a custom box built with the proper airspace, usually between 2 to 2.25 cubic ft for a 12, and more port area tuned low. Most prefab boxes are tuned higher and most of the time it’s between 40-50 hz. I tune all of my 12” sub boxes between 28-32 hz depending on what sub is going in it. Ported boxes can be an all around great performer when built and tuned properly. It doesn’t have to be all about SPL and the reason people have that perception of ported boxes is because most of them have only ever heard high tuned prefab boxes.
Ported will be boomy because the air moves freely in and out of the box bit its not the best with rock music. the downside to ported is the box needs be fairly large and will take a lot of room. Sealed will be more tight and accurate because the subwoofer acts like a spring and will be punchy and works great with rock music bit. the downside is the lower frequencies will be lost because it cant produce. it just depends what the genre of music
@@herculesbrofister265 it's true. I had a 12 in a sealed box and it didn't blow apart but one day I pushed some lows too hard and a made several air leaks. Easy to say I got a ported box after that, and loved it ever since
I have two 12's in a sealed box.. but I put the back seat down, (exposing the trunk) and I get more output with less rattle on the inside... but it's probably different for other cars.. idk
sealed for the win..!!! sealed enclosure's bass is tight, responsive and faster.. Ported is louder but more sloppy and the bass feels delayed, its not as fast and accurate .. Sealed requires more power...
I’m at lost here. I’m getting an alpine type s 12 and I can’t decide between a ported or sealed box. I’m wondering if anyone can tell me what would be better for me based on music I listen to. I mostly listen to rap music, but there’s music I listen to that have punchy hard hits of bass and then there’s songs that have long low/mids and I’m wondering if a sealed box can do both.
the only thing i can tell you is to find a car stereo shop that can offer you both setups... Get the amp installed and ready for subs... then try a ported 12 then a sealed 12 and go from there... keep in mind, not all subs are spec'd the same, not all subs require the same air space.. in order to properly test each setup, you will need one sub... put that sub in its recommended sealed box, then move that same sub to a properly tuned ported box with proper air space..
Yes both will play differently depending on the genre. ported box will be much boomy because the air moves freely in and out of the enclosure and it will create much deeper bass but isnt the best if for rock music. Ported is the way to go for rock music because the bass will be tight abnd accurate because it acts as a spring. it varies the downside to a sealed box you will loose the lower frequencies below 40hz. depends how its used
Great job on this video. You explained the core differences in the enclosures clearly and simply. I have done the same with two 8 inch woofers and though I liked the more powerful bass of the ported enclosure, I couldn’t sacrifice the accuracy of the bass on non rap music so I went with sealed.
@@roysongarvey2261 I had it set to 37hz but it was just a test so they both was on the same amp. Not a good way to get the best out of both subs but I was still surprised and blown away. Mostly because iv never read anyone doing this. I sents disassemble it but it was an awesome project over the CIVID-19 down time.
@@roysongarvey2261 it will be worth it as they sounded pretty good on my quick setup but I can only imagine how they'd be properly tuned in the right boxes and on separate amp settings. Good Luck 👍
I just recently switched my 10's from a sealed box to ported box. Night and day difference. It hits so much harder now. I will never use a sealed box again.
A ported box is going to be better on your sub and make it last longer but if you don’t have that big of a sub like a kicker 12” it won’t matter that much but if you have a bigger 12 like an American bass with a big magnet you will need a bigger box with a port or it will suffocate itself essentially
Just going to level control for your sub amp gain then you can slightly turn it down when you get sick of the bass but still be able to turn it up when you pass the ladies
I am running a fi audio 18 on 4K in a ported box if you want serious bass go with what I have bass knob on the first bar is brutal I’ll do a video soon
I have to 12's wired in Bridge with 2000 Watts tucked behind the seat in a standard cab 1983 Chevy Scottsdale so much bass broke my windshield have to have windows rolled down to show off my bass
Take ur mirror off and put a couple of dabs of silicone glue and put it back in. Did this for my 2 12 inch kickers ported box in my honda accord. Stopped the rattling completely. My mirror use to fall off from my bass too.
I am not being funny but I have a sub woofer in my car to how are you going to stop certain rattle in your car it's the sound pressure level that's normal to get that your can adjust the bass level to minimise or maximum that's not a big deal so the only way to stop that bass rattling to play your bass level really low
it really comes down to what car your putting a system in. I had a 83 nissan sentra with 2-12in JL subs, 2-18in JBL & 4-10inch EV & that was an awesome setup. My cousin has a Honda Civic 1999 with 18 speakers made by Bass Rockers & that thing is awesome as well. It really depends if one can stand the pressure of the speakers rocking. Might as well go to a car show where they have cars with audio systems. But i think ported is better with lighter speakers & sealed for those hard hitting speakers like MTX.
I actually got a different car! I made a video asking your suggestions about what kind of audio system i should go with. Please check it out and let me know!!!
I have 2 Rockford Fosgate P1 10s in a sealed wedge box in my single cab C10, with a smaller amp and they bump! Sounds great, I only have two 6x9 speakers but really want to hear my other sub and amp I was given a while back its a 12 and amp is pretty big (can't remember the brands)
Have you guys ever installed subs / a 5 channel amp?
Im using a 5 channel amp in my set up
I'm using a 4 channel on my door rear deck speakers and a mono block on my single 12
I'm super happy with my ALPINE F 405 MosFet have one 12in Kicker Comp in a sealed box that pounds and consistently dead nuts in my '04 3.0 Accord
i have
Kenwood Excelon 900 watt 5 channel in mine. Love the "all-in-one" concept.
Holy shit, McLovin!!!
Abram Ruelas thats me! Lol
Yonny Nolls cool background music lol
Ahahahaha 😂😂😂
Thought the same thing 😂
What's up bitches!!
If you want accurate sound quality then sealed is the way to go. If you want ridiculously loud bass and don’t care about sound quality then ported. Sealed can hit hard, you just need more power and a sub that can handle that power!
@Missael Campos yes it does
@@scottwilliams6496 Nah. If you have the right sub, in the right ported enclosure, it will sound clean.
Ramen Noodles custom ported boxes tuned 32-37hz be going dumb 🔊🔊🔊
@Missael Campos just tune it to 33Hz or lower. There are some SQ cars have 2 12s in a ported enclosure.
A properly designed ported sub enclosure, with sufficient cu. Ft. Sq. And ported low enough not only hits harder per/watt of power, but also sound absolutely phenomenal, again, when built Right!
Back in my day your system wasn't loud enough if your rear view mirror stayed attached to the windshield.
seriously right???
Still how i roll.
My s10 had 3 jl 15 w0s and it ran 15 hz
I wanna be that loud, but it'd be annoying for my mirror to keep falling off
100% 😂
If you don't want stuff to Shake in your car don't put a sub in it....
Donnel Moss or take the time to pick the right sub and insulate the right way. I actually got it to work properly now.
Yonny Nolls that's still not going to work the vibration is going to make everything inside your car shake it's simple as that, if you don't want the vibration you should just use 6×9's👍👍
Donnel Moss all im sayin is that i fixed mine and im still runnin a 12 in a ported box. No shakes or rattles. Its pretty solid.
Not everyone wants to shake the shit out of their vehicles. Some people just want a little bit more bass that 6x9s can't really provide, at least compared to a decent 12.
I, on the other hand, love to shake the shit out of my vehicle. Mostly because, the closer I get to my 30s, the more of an asshole I become, and the less I care about other peoples' opinions.
I had six 6x9s in the back window of my old 83 lesabre, pounded harder than alot of people running a single 12.
you can test for yourself what sealed is kinda like. Just filled your ported box with POLLY.
I did this, and istantly, INSTANTLY, I noticed the bass quality difference. A polly, ported box done RIGHT is actually my favorite.
You get that loud bass, but the polly makes it more tight.
the Bass notes are clean with the polly, the bass note doesn't resonate into the next. Helps to clean that muddy sound.
I learned something new
I second this. A poly filled ported box sounds excellent in my opinion. I even throw some in the port itself (you have to get creative sometimes so the poly or insulation doesn’t blow out the port.) It’s like you get the best of both worlds. You get the increased output that a ported box normally gives you with a very controlled sound like sealed gives you. It might not be quite as tight and quick as a sealed box, but in my experience sealed is only the bees knees when the car is parked or you have lots of subs with lots of power. Once road noise comes into play, the subtle, delicate sound a sealed box gives you goes out the window as certain notes get drowned out. Not so with a poly filled ported box. You hear and fee every note. On the other hand, a ported box without poly usually has some annoying ringing and there’s a few notes that just aren’t quite there SQ-wise.
The sound quality of the subs makes depends on the amount of air that's able to move freely. A subs location is key to deciding whether you should go with a sealed or ported box. If you place an enclosure in the trunk. It will sound different compared to a hatchback, wagon or Suv. That’s because the there is less free air in the trunk compared to the hatch/SUV, where the air can travel back and forth without the impedance of the walls and seats.
A ported box concentrates the internal air at a single focal point, then releases that energy like a shot gun throughout the cabin or trunk. That causes a "boomy" sound effect people refer too. The Sealed box relies on the movement of the external air. As the Sub moves back and forth, it creates a negative and positive pressure. That pressure difference is what causes your interior space to resonate and enables you to “feel’’ the bass more.
The tradeoff being the Sealed box will not sound as loud as the ported box. That’s due to the energy loss of the sub having to create positive pressure within the box. However, the +/- pressure within the box is what causes the quick response or “accurate” bass. The ported box does not have this buildup of spring pressure but instead relies on the enclosure to focus the internal air at a specific frequency range.
it means , sealed box is good for suburban and ported vented for a sedan , Am I correct ?
@Phuong AMG Nguyen wondering the same
@Phuong AMG Nguyen let me know how it work out
@Phuong AMG Nguyen nice....i have some 12s in a box .i just need a amp and wires thats it
@@charlesdavidmartinez I believe it’s the other way around
Sealed is cleaner and ported boomy. A lot depends on your musical preferences. After years of owning subs, Sealed is my preferred choice.
@@andyn333 I like my sealed cause when I play at medium volume always, the bass pounds good. But when your looking for that long throw booom, you go ported to make the bass feel smooth flowing vs sealed pounding the bass that hits and then drops off because the air in a sealed box stays inside and does not flow out.
I've always been a sealed box guy. Back in the day I had two 15" Kicker Solo Baric in my Cutlass. Powered by a PPI A1200.2 Art Series. Shook the rearview mirror off of the windshield. Had ported and bandpass before and it never did that shit. It would rattle your eyeballs and you couldn't see straight, or breathe for that matter lol. Sealed always hit harder to me. Actually still have two of the PPI A1200.2 amps left. I always swore by PPI back in the day.
most people out there just want loud bass.. they dont care about the sound quality. i personally find that my 12 inch sub in an sealed box has more than enough bass. i like a more flat frequency response though and the sealed box makes amazing job and in my opinion. it is closer to what the most music producers vision their songs to be heard.
what happens if you do one of each?
I spent hours isolating interior rattles to keep using my ported enclosure lol its worth it!!! YOU CAN DO IT
If all you listen to is rap then go ported. If you listen to everything else..go sealed with a 750 or more rms sub or 2. And a good amp and call it a day. Sealed boxes are so accurate and tight and excel in sq. A ported box built properly can be good too but i found only certain genres sounded good on ported boxes whereas sealed boxes played everything well and with great sq.
Agreed
Totally true
I love how even it sounds and it's crystal clear
With my small knowledge of what ports do I think the sealed will be more consistent but overall quieter while the ported will have some louder peaks but also fall off at a point
Sooooooooo, you want some base but you don't want your mirror or the anything else to vibrate or rattle ??? WTH
Sound deadening mat does wonders! I am the same way man, I had my car tore apart three or 4 different times trying to play with the mat and some other insulating materials. I love that deep thud/boom u get with no other noises. Rattling also will have u thinking ur speakers are blown as well. Lol it's enough to make a sane man mad! Lbvs
This is actually a great video because your explanation was so easy to follow. Odd that you only demoed the ported box and not the sealed one. Also, you literally can't be a basshead and not have your car rattle. That would be like taking up cigarette smoking and not wanting to smell like cigarette smoke.
thought u we’re gonna say not have cancer
If you don't want rattling use sound deadener. And if that's a lot of bass for you then you'd probably go deaf in my car
matt a lmao. A lot of people have told me the same thing. Just sold the car though so its no longer my problem. Haha
matt a what u running
dustin bachmeier two 12 inch 800 watt American bass vfl's in a ported box on a 1600 watt American bass amp
I got my 2 Rockford fosgate p3 with a 2000 amp makes a hell of a sound and shaking
I have 2 kicker 15s on 5000 watt amp
Hey boosted, get an external level adjuster knob. It isolates the box and you can go full bore or turn the level down to a comfortable level for you.
Agreed, for the price and simplicity of them it is a very nice addition unless your head unit has subwoofer control built in then it's kinda pointless.
Now that's customer service! That's extremely hard to find nowaday's. Definetly worth paying a little $ extra for.
I love ported box, if you take a seal box out of your car it doesn't give you the amount of bass that the ported box would give you outside the car. Ported box is a good all rounder. But it depends on what you like. I love reggae and hip hop so ported is my choice.
Misleading, an amplifier has an easier time powering a sealed sub, the sub uses less power when sealed because the trapped air acts like a spring, its only quieter because the back half of the sub isn't loaded by the port. thats why amps run a lot cooler powering sealed setups.
while that sealed box *is* small for a sealed box for a 12" sub (going from 1 cu ft to 1.4 cu ft with a 12" sub with decent parameters gives noticeably more usable output in the 35-45Hz range), that ported box is actually *not* huge for a ported box for a 12" sub (around 1.5 cu ft after port displacement) and again it's likely tuned to around 45Hz.
with a 12" sub with decent parameters, you'd really be looking at 2.2 cu ft after port displacement and tuned to ~30Hz for full potential, which would noticeably give more usable output in the 25Hz-45Hz range, so with a technically small box relative to the sub size, you (general you) are really missing out on the sub's full potential and a lot of low frequency extension, and in that case should consider instead stepping down a sub size and going with a 10" sub in a 1.65 cu ft ported box tuned to ~33Hz, or if that"s "too big", stepping down a sub size again and going with an 8" sub in a 1.1 cu ft ported box tuned to ~35Hz, for example.
good video though
Heres what I do. 50hz fs and up put in a sealed box. 50hz fs and below put in a ported box. All my midbass component speakers are in custom sealed door pods. Specs of a given driver helps to determine what type of box to put it in. Most subwoofers can be placed in both. But some are more specific and are either designed for a sealed or ported box. So pay attention. It comes down to application really.
Good point! I'll add, most GOOD Subs will come with a Spec Sheet....
Besides telling you what you just bought, it should explain what the minimum amount of Volume that your Box needs to be. Bigger would be better - but TOO Big will leave you with boomy, muddy Bass.
It SHOULD tell you Box Volume for both Sealed and Ported. Ported Boxes nearly always need more Volume than a Sealed Box.
In a Ported Box, Port dimensions are as critical as Box Volume!! If you don't know what length/width/diameter/wall thickness you'll need, there are thousands of websites that can offer some direction.
.... If you're not going to Match the Port with the Box, desired Frequency, or to the Speaker itself - don't even bother!
Just get a Sealed Box of the right Volume, and be done.
AND - if you're not going to make sure that your Sealed Box is SEALED..... again don't bother. Get your $20 Box on EvilBay, and call it finished.
Taking a little extra time and money, you CAN build your own Box, that will Blow Your Mind!!!
So basically sealed it more solid sound and ported is more rattle and make car shake?
If you put your subs in your trunk will it come into the cab with no adjustments?
5:42 All u need is some 2nd skin sound deadner for the trunk & interior and your straight
sheacole2 thank you for the suggestion. Ill check it out!
If you’re going to get a ported box, you have to give up a bit more space with a bigger enclosure to really see the full benefit of ported. Also, not sure what sub you’re using, but for a ported enclosure, it is usually recommended to go with a higher power sub (1000+ rms), improving the movement of air. For lower powered subs a sealed enclosure will usually see better results.
Alllllrighty. So first off , good on you for making a vid for those who are looking into getting sound. Having said that after listening to your setup , your amp needs a major upgrade. If that’s all you’re getting from a ported box with a 12.. you’re lacking power dude. Here’s what I did. Not that you’d care but for anyone reading the comments. Here you go. Started off with the head unit .. I feel like that’s a very important first upgrade. Then I moved onto the mids and tweeters. Lastly I did the sub and amp. My music taste is hella diverse. I do tend to lean towards rap. So .. I got myself a “ entry level “ pioneer d311 d4 running at 2 ohms on a 700w rms monoblock. It works for essentially all music genres but it lacks the low drops that you get with a ported. So what I did was I got myself a 8000w dvc 12” comp sub that can handle far more than my amp can provide ( I like knowing I can’t hurt it ). That’s in a ported enclosure built to spec .. this allows me to chop and change box types / subs depending on my mood. Best of both worlds. A fair warning to those who are venturing into car audio or more specifically subs. Although a sealed enclosure is less prone to causing damage to your subwoofer. It can happen. There is a point where you can demand too much from it and essentially overheat the voice coils with power. Ported enclosures are definitely touch and go. Unless you’re running a spl subwoofer that was ultimately designed for good excursion. You will bottom your sub out and clip the voice coil. So be careful and always have a sub that’s either stronger than your amp by at least 100-200w rms. Or limit your amps gain to match the power value of your subwoofer. This will prevent you from overpowering your investment. Cheers.
Thank you McLovin' I think I'm going to ditch my slotted and go try out sealed instead. Double up on my amps too, phuq it.
Im using 2x15 Cabinet for my guitar. It has TWO 3" ports. TWO of them. Seems 1 might even be too much air. - I need to Seal it, is there a simple way to seal up the existing port holes??
Perfect. Just got a 12w3 with a 500w amp. Installed it into the trunk of my 8th gen also in a ported box.
How do you like it?
I hit 146.3 with that same set up in a hatchback I had the JL 500/1amp sub was in a JL power wedge box
I think I'm going with the 10w7
What is the best box for a CONVERTIBLE
Walter Payton idk
@@boosted_john THANKS BRA
Walter Payton FORSUE
Have always built my own boxes sealed of course, to spec and put more power than needed to run them as you should amyhow, then tune the amp, not an expert but have ran old school Cerwin Vegas, Rockford HE 2, directed audio 12's in a 4 runner with 3k watts, they bounced the wipers off the windshield playing that 3, 6 Mafia
Okay Yonny, To solve the problem of rattles. This can become very expensive if you listen to the shop guys. Obviously because they want to sell their product which has been marked up at least 10% on the product itself. Mainly a specific product that has the market cornered and I'm referring to Dynamat. I personally think it is a great WASTE OF MONEY!!!!
I have a much cheaper, easier to install and much better sound deadening!!! However it is still time consuming. I used, spray foam, in ALL empty cavities including inside the doors and deck lids along with anywhere behind the panels after removal. This product is easily applied and after it has dried, it's easy to cut or trim away from any vital parts, windows, and wires. Then I bought a couple of cases of under car sound deadening rubberized spray paint. Spray the backside of all panels careful not to spray switches or motors.
The next cheap trick is to go to the junkyard and pull any make model vehicles factory sound deadening backing material, and a can of spray adhesive. Fill in any and all empty areas. I even doubled the existing materials.
Now after panels have dried and are ready for installation go to hardware store to the plumbing section and buy rubber washers or valve seats. Install these both behind and in front of all speaker screws.
I guarantee you that if you take care and stay vigilant the reward is WELL worth it. My Ford taurus sounds like a Mercedes Benz it's so quite.
Another positive is ability to play music louder without disturbing the public.
An extra bit of information about clean up. Acetone for rubber paint, and I found the easiest way to get foam off is to let it dry then use pressure washer. Definitely want latex gloves as well and doesn't hurt to use painters tape and thrifty nickels to cover the things you do not wish to get sprayed.
Brilliant.
👍
peel and seal
I don't think your system sucks. Ignore the assholes. It's a better system than what I started out with. I used to have a 10" powered subwoofer that I bought from Wal-Mart. It was one of those Dual branded ones. Had it in my CRX, before I sold it. And then, after I got the minivan, I moved onto a 12" Dual in a sealed box. It wasn't until just this year that I started getting serious about upgrading my car audio. And that's because I got great deals on used equipment from friends, and around town.
Currently, I am rocking two Alpine Type R 12s, and two Kicker Comp 12s, with each set being in their own ported box. All four are being powered by a "1200 watt" Pioneer amp (only pushes up to 500 RMS at 4 ohms), that I got with the Kickers for $100 with the box. I already had the Alpines in my van, which I had also got for only $100 with the box they are in. So my buddy and I just threw them in together, and they sound really good. Even though I have a small, separate, amp up front for my door speakers, this combo can easily overpower the highs and mids. Thank god for an in-line volume knob.
Point here is that everyone starts somewhere. Most of us probably started with little crap systems that nobody else cared about, but we loved. Once you get more serious about it, look around and you'll find amazing deals on great equipment, usually being sold by someone who doesn't know the true value of what they have, or just needs the money.
As far as the rattling goes, I think rattling is one of the best parts of the hobby. Not everyone's cup of tea, of course. But my wife and I love it when we can get everything to rattle.
I started with a CRAIG AM/FM *Cassette!!!* 😱😫 For further effect, I added one of those "Professional Amp/EQs" that claimed *250 Watts* even though it was smaller than my hand. It MAY have had 12-14 Watts per Channel - with an UNGODLY amount of Distortion!!
If THAT wasn't enough, you mounted it by DRILLING HOLES into your Dashboard or Console, and screwed it in using the supplied UGLY L-Brackets!!!
It was 1983, I was an IDIOT Teenager. In my Long Life, I don't think I've even SEEN a more CRAP Car "Stereo"!!!
This is a joke right lmao I’m dying right now. Haha
Mine isn't, sadly. That was my first teenage stereo! The standard Stereo in the cheapest Car today, is 10X better than that POS!! 35 years ago,we thought THAT was the Shit..... Now we know it was just SHIT!!
Lol man I started off with systems in home, with a speaker system with a 4inch sub, then a RCA system with a 6.5. Now I have 2 Skar 15s on 3K. So everyone has to start somewhere
shit I'm 15 started with an ds18 8 inch select series sub still have now I have 2 dual electronics 12s in my room in a ported box for home audio and then I've had an 60 watt home amp that blew cause two wires touched but it's easy to replace it's a 22 buck home amp I have another on the way with a pair of 3.5 inch tweeters and crossovers oh and the amp that's powering the subs is a 100watt RMS amp and it over heats like hell cause it's doing its job and pushing them bitches and I'll say that as my first car audio system I'd want 6 CT sounds 18s I forgot what series they are but they're 600 watts RMS then for amps I'd use 2 1500 watt RMS audiopipe amps and a cheap lil 4 channel mids and highs amp and mids and highs would be CT sounds 8 inch mids and probably a pioneer head unit and 2 xs power batteries with 2 or 4 mechman alternators oh all the subs in the trunk of a 2010 or 12 crown Vic LMAO
Do you need poly fill in a sealed sub box? or does that apply to only sealed subs?
Does running a sealed box over ported affect that "punch to the chest" feeling? I want to switch to sealed but dont want the loose the punch feel.
You will lose some of that.
So why didn't you put the speaker in the sealed box??
For 12's, use ported. I like a single 10" in a sealed box (0.50 cu.ft.), because I can shake the ground with a 250w rms Alpine sub. Also signal-to-noise is important. i.e. HU: 105dB SUB: 86.5dB AMP: 70dB gives me 261.5dB( 10" range 260dB to 270dB) Max volume: 9. With a 12-inch, if you can find a 120dB head unit you would have up-and-off as volume choices. Everyone goes for peak overpower, stay on budget and overpower between 20 watts to 100 watts (from RMS).
That was a very unbiased description of the advantages annnnd disadvantages of Sealed/Ported
Does your bass hits harder when you lower your car windows?
No
@ChevyboyCaprice_ it actually does increase spl. you're probably not noticing it. Lowering 1 window opposite of the listener increases spl, hence why tests are run with different requirements. Some ask to close all doors and windows. Some do 1 door open or both. I've personally found that having all windows down lowers my spl
Get some vibration speakers. They give the bass thump with no noise. Fit them to the springs in your car seat. No fatigue, no ear damage
Did u add an amp for your new mids and highs?
Cool video thanks for explaining everything in layman’s terms.
Just get a custom built box built to your ear satisfaction. If you like tight bass but loud get a ported box built to 40hz because you get both of best worlds
Js399 40 is a bit high I would go with a 34hz tune
@@brandonslaght6579 30Hz - 35Hz is good I agree. Anything over 40Hz is pushing it.
I'd say a 33. 40 may get some port noise or sum, it'd get low but not that low. I'd go with a 33, highs and low. If you only want highs, sealed, lows, 26 tune
What’s the instrumental playing while you were talking?
its one that my brother made. I think the link is in the description of that video.
how do you know what volume level on the head unit you can case when you're breaking it in? would love a reply thanks
You play at low level you are exercising the diaphragm so you can just see it moving as its not been used out of the factory, its like doing100mtr sprint straight out bed without loosening up ya tear or rip something!!!!!
Have you tried that dynamat to help reduce that unwanted rattle?
Does sealed add longevity to your subs?
Bro which is the best sub. Box ported or seald
Bhavesh Bhavesh it’s whatever sounds good to you. Neither are “best”. Pick what you like.
Im making a box for 12s u think i should put a divider between the speakers or no divider on box for bass
A divider would be better in stereo. And not necessary for mono. But you need central braces for a custom built box.
What's the song called
I know people are gonna hate but I used to love extreme bass when I was younger . Now that I have been around car audio for over 30 years and finally settled down and had kids and family I truly feel like 2 - 15 inch 1000 watt rms subs in a sealed box tuned at about 35 to 45hz on a 1500 to 2000 watt rms amp with crossover set at 60 - 80hz gives you the best sounding bass that will get loud as fu@# but you can play at lower volume and still have enough sound quality and bass to satisfy even the bass head in you . I hit 140 db easy if I want to turn it up and it plays every note not just the super low notes . If you try that on a ported low tuned box you will get that funky burnt voice coil smell . If you try smaller subs you wont get deep low notes unless its ported and tuned low .
I feel stupid for asking this but...is the rattling bad? Why is it a no go?
I just recently installed an aftermarket radio in my car and I’m very new to car audio. The radio I installed is a Pioneer FH-X700BT and it has a 5 band equalizer, which I don’t really know how to work lol. I want to have no or just barely any bass coming out of my door speakers but still to sound good cause I want the majority of bass to be coming from my sub, and the radio has a subwoofer controller, so what settings should I have the EQ at? Cause it’s not like most simple radios where it says bass, treble, etc and you can just adjust it like that. It has different HZ (80hz, 250hz, 800hz, etc.) Which don’t understand, so if anyone could help and explain it would be much appreciated. For now I just have the Equalizer on the preset “Vocal” option.
The only reason why this video has soo many Dislikes is because theres so much explaining and “opinions” said and audio heads think their always right, lets be honest here
How much more bass or punch does the ported give vs the sealed? Im tryna feel the bass in my chest and rn my sealed enclosure not doing it for me
Dude, get you a cheap but effective system. I have 2 10 inch xplods on a 800.2 watt amp. This shit hits really good with a sealed box. And I only paid about 100 for everything . It's on a 4 gauge amp kit and my stereo is not after market.
Tasty Fungus I have 2 10" kicker comp Cs on a 600w amp in a sealed enclosure but its not producing. Im not sure how to make it stronger without upgrading the sub or amp
Kickers are garbage bro. I've popped a few of those with 1k amp. Maybe if the kickers were old school , that's a different story. New kickers in my opinion, no good
Anthony Nguyen get better 10s
I have 1 video on my channel, it's a 12 on a stock radio. Check it out
to fix rattles buy a nice and well built car first, second use sound deadener material to lower the amount of vibrations lastly you can use foam and other materials to insulate panels and wires that may rattle.
What box good for low bass?sealed or ported
Ported
This guy is acctully smart. Like acctully knows what hes talking about and uses real words
Thanks brother 🤙🏻
May I suggest using some type of dampening material in your trunk, it often helps with a lot of the vibrations of lose parts.
Carlos Alonso thanks!
Can you make a video on how you fixed your rattling?
I would, but i sold the car. :/
The rattle will never go away with subs, all my cars have had subs and even a brand new Lexus rattles after a few months of listening. You think it rattles bad now wait a year later.
I sold that car. Lol. I bought a mustang. Feel free to check it out!
Turn the volume knob to the left. I thought you were comparing enclosures, I didn't see any comparing.
Thinking about modifying my sealed box on one side and porting one side and leaving the other alone for good mids
Most high end home sound systems are ported boxes and sound damn good because they are tuned right. I build my own ported box prefabs are a joke.
You need to ditch that prefab box and have a custom box built with the proper airspace, usually between 2 to 2.25 cubic ft for a 12, and more port area tuned low. Most prefab boxes are tuned higher and most of the time it’s between 40-50 hz. I tune all of my 12” sub boxes between 28-32 hz depending on what sub is going in it. Ported boxes can be an all around great performer when built and tuned properly. It doesn’t have to be all about SPL and the reason people have that perception of ported boxes is because most of them have only ever heard high tuned prefab boxes.
Ported will be boomy because the air moves freely in and out of the box bit its not the best with rock music. the downside to ported is the box needs be fairly large and will take a lot of room. Sealed will be more tight and accurate because the subwoofer acts like a spring and will be punchy and works great with rock music bit. the downside is the lower frequencies will be lost because it cant produce. it just depends what the genre of music
Is your ported box is too deeper??
sheeba k.s ?
@@boosted_john
Is this ported box is enough for more punching Bass?
sheeba k.s yeah, the ported box added the perfect amount of low end for me.
@@boosted_john
Can you hear the Bass from a long distance like bomm bomm
sheeba k.s uh not too much. You can a little if it’s turned up really loud. I sold that car though so idk anymore.
Ported box is way better, if you run too many watts through a sealed box it'll over heat the subwoofer and can blow the box apart
JimmyJames82 that’s okay, that’s when its time to get a bandpass enclosure made up!!
Nonsense. That's some of the dumbest shit i've ever heard
@@herculesbrofister265 it's true. I had a 12 in a sealed box and it didn't blow apart but one day I pushed some lows too hard and a made several air leaks. Easy to say I got a ported box after that, and loved it ever since
If you can figure out a way to port the sound from your trunk to the interior it might decrease the rattle .
I have two 12's in a sealed box.. but I put the back seat down, (exposing the trunk) and I get more output with less rattle on the inside... but it's probably different for other cars.. idk
sealed for the win..!!! sealed enclosure's bass is tight, responsive and faster.. Ported is louder but more sloppy and the bass feels delayed, its not as fast and accurate ..
Sealed requires more power...
You Tube yep
I agree
I’m at lost here. I’m getting an alpine type s 12 and I can’t decide between a ported or sealed box. I’m wondering if anyone can tell me what would be better for me based on music I listen to. I mostly listen to rap music, but there’s music I listen to that have punchy hard hits of bass and then there’s songs that have long low/mids and I’m wondering if a sealed box can do both.
MERK MOTION sealed box can do both, but ported will be way better for rap.
the only thing i can tell you is to find a car stereo shop that can offer you both setups... Get the amp installed and ready for subs... then try a ported 12 then a sealed 12 and go from there...
keep in mind, not all subs are spec'd the same, not all subs require the same air space.. in order to properly test each setup, you will need one sub... put that sub in its recommended sealed box, then move that same sub to a properly tuned ported box with proper air space..
Put better rubber on the car doors and the trunk and fill the hollow spots for less rattle. Could that idea work for you?
Whats the song?
Feel it by young thug
Yes both will play differently depending on the genre. ported box will be much boomy because the air moves freely in and out of the enclosure and it will create much deeper bass but isnt the best if for rock music. Ported is the way to go for rock music because the bass will be tight abnd accurate because it acts as a spring. it varies the downside to a sealed box you will loose the lower frequencies below 40hz. depends how its used
blessed. thanks for the concise info
You need to take every panel off and put damping material behind everything. But your rearview mirror will still rattle.
500 subs! Holy schnikes! Watch by the end of the year you are going to get more than 2000.
Alec Apelian I sure hope so buddy. Have a great week and thank you 🤙
Don't put things that rattle in your car is a perfect idea. Sound deadening material is also a good start too.
I have 3-10’ in closed box !! Hitting at 2000 watts !! I think a ported box would scare me
Great job on this video. You explained the core differences in the enclosures clearly and simply. I have done the same with two 8 inch woofers and though I liked the more powerful bass of the ported enclosure, I couldn’t sacrifice the accuracy of the bass on non rap music so I went with sealed.
2011joser thanks! And yeah, I feel ya.
You should try ridding with with your back seat down and with the sub facing to the front and see what you think. You’re gonna love it
Just get one of each man! A ported 12" and a sealed 12" problem solved! Easier than calculus.
I did that once it sounded amazing punchy and boomy where I needed it just had to work out their phasing.
Eder nice, how did you have the crossovers set for this setup?
@@roysongarvey2261 I had it set to 37hz but it was just a test so they both was on the same amp. Not a good way to get the best out of both subs but I was still surprised and blown away. Mostly because iv never read anyone doing this. I sents disassemble it but it was an awesome project over the CIVID-19 down time.
Eder oh ok, yeah I like trying new things, I might try something similar to just to see how they sum. Time to cut some wood
@@roysongarvey2261 it will be worth it as they sounded pretty good on my quick setup but I can only imagine how they'd be properly tuned in the right boxes and on separate amp settings. Good Luck 👍
I just recently switched my 10's from a sealed box to ported box. Night and day difference. It hits so much harder now. I will never use a sealed box again.
If you're not about super tight but quantity of bass switching to vented is a no brainer, I went the other way. I have 2 10s also
@@hellobooom In my opinion, the bass still has the same tightness, but now it "moves" through the car more.
Sealed is like drinking good whiskey, ported is like drinking everclear.
I personally like sealed enclosures more. And Nice car I like it.
A ported box is going to be better on your sub and make it last longer but if you don’t have that big of a sub like a kicker 12” it won’t matter that much but if you have a bigger 12 like an American bass with a big magnet you will need a bigger box with a port or it will suffocate itself essentially
Just going to level control for your sub amp gain then you can slightly turn it down when you get sick of the bass but still be able to turn it up when you pass the ladies
Ladies think we’re idiots when they hear out bass thumping. Just a piece of advice lol.
@@boosted_john but it sure gets into turn your heads don't get it
Why not both
Lol
@@boosted_john seriously tho
Buddy if yo shit shaking yo set up is 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 I’m getting a ported box now
They are better everyone has there own opinion
I am running a fi audio 18 on 4K in a ported box if you want serious bass go with what I have bass knob on the first bar is brutal I’ll do a video soon
I have a 10in ported @ 35hz on 300rms. People swear I have 2 -12s
I have to 12's wired in Bridge with 2000 Watts tucked behind the seat in a standard cab 1983 Chevy Scottsdale so much bass broke my windshield have to have windows rolled down to show off my bass
Im sure you do
Take ur mirror off and put a couple of dabs of silicone glue and put it back in. Did this for my 2 12 inch kickers ported box in my honda accord. Stopped the rattling completely. My mirror use to fall off from my bass too.
Less Nessman thanks for the tip! Ill try it if it becomes a problem. I tuned my amp a bit to make it sound better and havnt had much rattle since
Slot-ported boxes sound great almost no matter what
I am not being funny but I have a sub woofer in my car to how are you going to stop certain rattle in your car it's the sound pressure level that's normal to get that your can adjust the bass level to minimise or maximum that's not a big deal so the only way to stop that bass rattling to play your bass level really low
Not true. You can find the rattles and fix them.
Dont forget some subs are for sealed and sum for ported do a little research on the subs you buy
They normally give the best optimal cu ft for either sealed or ported enclosures in the subwoofer's manual too.
it really comes down to what car your putting a system in. I had a 83 nissan sentra with 2-12in JL subs, 2-18in JBL & 4-10inch EV & that was an awesome setup. My cousin has a Honda Civic 1999 with 18 speakers made by Bass Rockers & that thing is awesome as well. It really depends if one can stand the pressure of the speakers rocking. Might as well go to a car show where they have cars with audio systems. But i think ported is better with lighter speakers & sealed for those hard hitting speakers like MTX.
for your car i would suggest an 8” sub or even a 10”. 12” is alot for your little honda
I actually got a different car! I made a video asking your suggestions about what kind of audio system i should go with. Please check it out and let me know!!!
I have 2 Rockford Fosgate P1 10s in a sealed wedge box in my single cab C10, with a smaller amp and they bump! Sounds great, I only have two 6x9 speakers but really want to hear my other sub and amp I was given a while back its a 12 and amp is pretty big (can't remember the brands)