as someone who took the welding class high school and is almost 40 and even started a welding company, dont do this. what hes saying does make sense, but why get used to welding without a nozzle then when you switch to mig you have to learn that process with the nozzle. the nozzle does a few things and its going to depend on what youre welding. generally speaking the nozzle will recess the tip and if you take your wire cutters and trim it off flush with the nozzle youre stick out distance is the same all the time and you dont have to worry about holding the nozzle off the work piece as its also an insulator and will prevent you from grounding out the tip along with protecting the tip from the majority of spatter. also some people will grind the nozzle back so the tip is flush with the nozzle and it does the same thing as hes talking about and it works with mig also so theres no new learning curve and no need to buying a special nozzle. and be careful with the anti spatter and gel as it just adds to the toxins youre breathing in while welding.
Rubbish. I manage an LNG/aviation/oil/mining company and have 200 men under me. What this video is suggesting is completely correct. Skilled welders swap processes whenever required from TIG pressure welding on 20,000kpa gas compressor pipelines, to 1.6mm flux core on outdoor mining hoppers, to short-arc gas mig. Your excuse shows your own experience shortfalls, and your low expectations of others.
@@gw5436 hey jackass he wasnt talking about skilled welders. and you mention TIG which doesnt apply to this but also requires gas, and 1.6MM is a welding rod, the only thing that would apply would be the MIG but for some reason youre adding gas into it when short-arc mig is the proper term and the G in mig already stands for gas. so im not really sure what youre trying to say but just stay in your office
I was told this a while back from a welder friend and it does make a big difference. The other thing he said was get some scrap steel and practice, practice, practice......Good advice as always in your posts, keep up the good work.
I've been welding 2.5yrs at home. Just now grabed som C02. Thinking its gona be so so nice not having that cloud running in my nose, but I'm not looking forward to the fater tip.
There are shorter plastic shrouds to put on your gun for flux core. They help keep the spatter off of your tip, but they don’t make the weld any better. Get gas. Use it. Make better welds. I got an account at AirGas, bought a small cylinder, and my welds improved like magic.
I weld every so often and learned that trick removing the noz soon after starting. I bought the Lincoln 225 that uses fluxcore wire and very happy with what I can do with it.
I tossed my nozzle from my flux core many years ago. Completely changed the game. All the nozzle did was fill up with slag and flux and it was a pain to clean it so often because it just got clogged up very quickly.
I've got a cheap Mastercraft flux-core welder I picked up years ago. Plugs into 120, which makes it very handy to lug around to where I'm working (I also don't have a 240v line in the garage). One knob for feed speed and just high/low voltage and amperage switches. One day I want to invest in a multi-process welder (being able to TIG-weld aluminum would be very handy my repairs as well), but even what I have now has been very valuable for doing repairs for my landscaping equipment and my trailer. Even at the hobbiest level, having a basic flux-core welder is a good investment!
I figured this out shortly after buying my Mig welder. I got frustrated and gently removed the nozzle and gingerly tossed it to the side. When I couldn't find it "because it was windy and the wind carried it too far" I just continued without it and my welds improved instantly.
Excellent advice. Just FCAW welded a 22g sheet panel repair on my sons car. Wish I had seen this first and removed the MIG tip. Repair still came out great but this would have made it easier.
Thanks for this. So simple, and I literally just figured it out for myself. I was struggling massively to keep sight of my puddle. Took the MIG tip off, and all my welds improved dramatically. Yes, I'm new to welding.
I used to do ornamental welding... hand rails, decorative balcony rails, Gates etc... 1/2" X 1/2" pickets, 1 1/2" posts (smaller welds) and with what I'm going to recommend I also did 4" X 4" X 1/4" posts as well as heavier welds too. 0.030 welding wire really helped me to put down really nice/beautiful/"ornamental welds" that I literally painted over after only wire wheeling the dingle balls off. (press read more) A bit slower for the larger welds yes but the welds were full pen and I came to prefer welding downhill rather than uphill as the smaller wire gave me the needed puddle control to do so. If you're used to 0.045 you won't like it at first but keep with it for just a little while to find the new wire speed and heat adjustments and you'll come to appreciate the provided control and versatility of .030 flex core wire. It was also much better for cast iron welding! .030 flux core wire came to be all that I used (95% of the time), contaminants floated out better too. Very Pure welds and with proper penetration! BION If changing from gas wire to flux core wire or vice versa... """don't forget to reverse the welders polarity"""! Admittedly most of you won't like 0.030 flux core wire because it's a little slower but I loved it! Dudes... the welds don't take long, it's the prep and the set up that takes the time and I had no weld grinding to do when I finished, just dingle ball removal with a wire wheel so... does the "project" actually take longer? No! 0.030 flux core... try it! Don't forget the 0.030 welder tips and a 0.030 roller wheel for your welder too. Both are very inexpensive and "super-simple to exchange" Cheers: Robert
Good prep work takes time, but results in much better welds, especially when you're repairing something that's been used and abused in the elements for years instead of working with fresh stock. Getting down to bare metal when repairing a trailer is always a huge hassle, but necessary if you don't want the weld to fail on you.
And a generator if you can afford it because extension cords to the fence line reduce arc power and can cause " black popcorn buildup" from weak electricity supply . A voltage drop or something on long extension cords . I think a 10 pound roll could be made onto a spool rack on the back of one of these little welders and drill a hole in the back wall of the welder in line with the wire feed roller and feed the wure through a plastic tube
NICE SHORT VIDEO. very informative, especially the nozzle info and spray and gel. Knocks spots of of a lot of other videos. well done Worth a note, you can with an angle grinder, chop about half an inch off the standard mig nozzle, this protects a lot of the diffuser. and you can see more of the contactor..
15 years owning an exhaust shop and I wish I had you as an employee!... WOW, 99% of times that huge gas nozzle hurt ue but we hated the spatter etc...... Wish i knew then what I know now i guess!
my friend Welds for NASA and NASCAR his welds on stainless and aluminum are amazing he developed a gas shield to get extra saturation he also does aircraft stainless elbows
Really good info thank you, i removed the shroud ages ago and thought doing so would be frowned upon by pro welders as the tip gets choked with spatter, now i know about anti spatter gel ill give it a try and im definitely having one of them nozzles makes it look legit
You do want some sort of nozzle for flux core. Particularly if you’re new to welding, you’re going to find a lot of spatter on your torch end. While antispatter and nozzle gel works, it’s not perfect, so large BBs do weld themselves to the tip.
Just tried removing the shielding nozzle after watching this video... and yep, it was a mess! The weld was spattering all over the place, deep holes all over the bead... and then on my second attempt it ended up welding a big lump on the end of the tip. Had to grind it right back as it wouldn't break off. Put the nozzle back on and it was perfectly good again. Not sure about this "#1 Tip and Trick to Improve Flux Core Welding" at all.... haha.
Good info, thank-you. I've got a Mini Mig 130 E , and that nozzle broke off. It is not a threaded piece, and i didn't know what to do. YOU, sir, solved my ' problem '. It is a non-gas flux core machine, so i'll take that advice /info and apply it to my situation. Thanks, again ! Will try that paste.....
I got shot of my welding shroud along time ago and only use fluxcore and have never used expensive gas. Yours sincerely from the old qeer corrupt UK 🇬🇧
Nozzle dip or spray is porosity in a can. Burn a couple of seconds weld on scrap to burn off the volatiles in the spray/dip. The need for it is eliminated if you keep your nozzle clean and smooth. Take the time before starting to dress any nicks out. No banging it on the work to get the spatter ring off. I never had any problem with using a full size nozzle, if there was a clearance problem, just slightly oval a standard nozzle with a hammer. Got my Journeyman Ship fitter card in 1976.
Always good policy to protect your gas hole form spatter balls! 🤣 Love your channel, my kid is in a joint high school-college welding program and I found myself very interested in learning the dark art, myself!
I'm no sure why in the world it took me so long to figure out that I can weld flux core much better without the gas nozzle foreskin . I welded gas dual shield in the trade for years and it just seemed normal to have it on when welding. some good points.
With it off or better yet with a flux core nozzle you can see your stick out distance better and then you won't ground out! I do agree with tacking, old timers would tack by simply contacting the nozzle to work piece and pull the trigger. For beginners it's easier to learn without.
Agree I welded a tip as soon as I shortened my standard nozzle. You get used to it providing a gap buffer. Put a new battery in my welding helmet and learn to re judge the distance and all will be good again.
Flux core was actually my final setup. Ive been mig/tig/stick welding for around 12 years now for work. I have no need for those applications at home though, so flux is cheap and if you know what youre doing it can be as good as the rest. A little research goes a LONG way.
Experienced welder here. If your new to this I would advise leaving the nozzle on till you learn to handle the gun.. it also protects the tip from touching the work... you can try but have lots of tips on hand!! When the tip touches the work area it arcks the tip and ruins it!! Also get some contact dip to dip the tip when its hot every once in awhile... I've welded alot in the field with flux core and once you learn the nozzle really doesn't matter to much. I like the tip protection it provides!!! You will see in time what I'm talking about? Good luck.. Wayne
@@wayneortmeier5352 Just tried removing the shielding nozzle after watching this video... and yep, it was a mess! The weld was spattering all over the place, deep holes all over the bead... and then on my second attempt it ended up welding a big lump on the end of the tip. Had to grind it right back as it wouldn't break off. Put the nozzle back on and it was perfectly good again. Granted I'm very new to welding (just started), but not at all sure about this "#1 Tip and Trick to Improve Flux Core Welding" at all.... haha.
great tips, and i am in the market for a beginner flux core welder just for small jobs and was asking what your thoughts on the century fc90 for my startup hobby? And which welder would you recommend for a never before welder.
The regular MIG nozzle is good for tack welding without a hood since it's not hot with the trigger pulled. Just put the nozzle against the weld point, close your eyes and squeeze the trigger.
nov 2 2023 caught yur remqrk about having a reverse polarity switch. and lacking one means its only flux core. my lincoln 140 has no such switch. so now i know it is not upgradeable to tig with a gas bottle and a different hose. eager to try the nozzle shield removal. its warming back up to the 60's here in colorado near pueblo. and that means its welding - weather outside
is nozzle gel the same as flux for soldering? It looks and smells identical. I ask because I only have a little bit of Noz Dip but I got a shit tonne of Soldering flux
This is a decent idea for people who plan on exclusively using FCAW. That being said, maybe just get used to good positioning instead. Once you get enough time under the hood you dont even need to watch the puddle that closely
THANKS FOR THE TIPS. WAY BACK BEFORE A LONG TIME AGO, WE USED OUR CUTTING TORCH WITH PROPANE AND OXYGEN SOME BORAX SOAP FOR FLUX, BRASS ROD, OR HAYWIRE TO WELD UP JUST ABOUT ANYTHING.
So didn't know about the flux core only nozzles...need one of them cause when your welding crap material most of the time it destroys the gun not that i think it will protect the bits that aren't replaceable (damn splatter) and spatter spray is great when its viable. Everything is an investment and if you can afford the extra great, but sadly some of us live in a cents/dollar world where even spending $20 for a better finish is feeding myself Thanks for upload
Flux core is the superior process over MIG. First, it's got the lowest entry fee of any process because you don't need the gas & bottle, & FC-only machines are cheaper than dual/multi-process machines. (Stay away from that black box from harbor freight.) 2d, it is far better for welding outdoors because there's no gas to blow away in the breeze. 3d, flux core provides better penetration than MIG. The only drawback, arguably, is the appearance of the bead. Flux core vs MIG is sort of the 6010 vs 6013 comparison in stick welding. Practice will improve FC bead appearance, but, if strength is the only concern, you'll get it done better with the flux core. That said, you'll likely hear many people say that flux core is the hot glue of welding. That is absolute garbage. Those are the people who don't cut and etch their welds to see which process is best. Run a T- joint with MIG on one diet and FC on the other. Then cut & etch it. You'll see an obvious difference in penetration on anything thick than, say, ⅛" steel.
@keltonwilt1499 yes, that's the one. It's okay for hobby stuff on thin material, but it doesn't like anything over ⅛". Very few settings options, and the duty cycle will have a guy drunk before the job is finished. For not too much more money, you could get into a titanium stick machine that will do far more for you. That said, the black box is great if you are just testing the hobby to see if you like welding. It lowers the entry fee and won't hurt too much if you decide that welding isn't your cha-cha. There is a good reason why those machines are so common in craigslist. They're the Honda Rebel of welders. But one, run it for a couple weeks, then upgrade to something that'll get you on the road.
It was from a fab shop. It was the "drop" from a larger plate. If you has steel fabrication shops if they have any "drop" they want to get rid of some will just give it to you for free.
Just wondering, let's say I'm welding a 10 feet long metal, which one consumes more electrode, stick welding or mig? Which one will do the job cheaper( cost of electrode only, gas for mig excluded)?
Edit: Source - I'm a trade qualified welder and metal fabricator. While this is convenient and makes it more simple for Gasless FCAW, be aware there is also Dual Shield FCAW which will require you keep the gas shroud on your gun and run the correct gas type for the particular weld you're trying to produce. Although I have one of my home welders set up with Gasless FCAW, with no shroud on for quick little jobs around my property, I would suggest leaving it on purely because once you've learnt with the shroud on, you can pick up any MIG/MAG/Dual Shielded type welder and not have to figure it out all over again. Learn how to do it the correct way, then once you have it nailed, then figure out what tricks/hacks you can get away with and on what jobs!! If you do this from day one, you might save time on cleaning your nozzle, but waste more money and time swapping out your contact tips because you keep touching it on your work piece. Your gas shroud is also your insulator.
Can you change the spring coiled diffuser to one threaded? Very important. I can’t get a “slip on” nozzle here in Denmark, only ones with thread. Please
Is Flux Core as good as MiG for the sole purpose of extracting broken bolts from aluminum blocks? Looking for a setup for that sole purpose... need a bit of direction...can you build up a broken bolt by layering up flux core bead or do you run into problem with slag etc...?
Is the copper tip actually supposed to protrude beyond the outer nozzle? I’ve always liked it inside just a little. To protect it. I always thought it was supposed to be this way.maybe I should try it your way. Nothing worse than the wire getting stuck at the very end of the tip. Then you spend the next ten minutes fixing it. Maybe I learned something today?😀
I cannot find a single video on RUclips where someone is flux-core welding 24-gauge square tubing. I see tons of videos of folks welding steel plates though. I suspect that flux-welding thin gauge tubing is beyond the skills of most so few (if anyone) is doing it. I'd be forever grateful if you could show how it's done. I have a gazebo made of 24-gauge square tubing and I'm going to have to replace quite a few railings. I sure could use some tips on how to get it done correctly.
I have flux core gun like the one you showed first. Sometimes the trigger sticks and wire feeds out on it's own and I have to bang the tip to stop it. I have taken the it apart and it still sticks any Suggestions?
Without the nozzle or by using a flux core nozzle you can see that distance better. If you are still contacting the work piece you need to work on your stick out.
MM, I have the same Vulcan 220 as you. I need an "O" ring for my gun cable lead where it fits into the machine. I have looked everywhere and i can't find one. Can you give am an idea where to look?
Flux Core Wire is self shielding. You don’t need a Nozzle because Inert Gasses are only used for Dual Shield and Solid Core Wires and use the Nozzle to help shield the Weld by directing the Gas Flow over the Weld Puddle.
If you are new and you cant see your puddle. Adjusting your head or arms to get a better view. Get bettter lighting. When you get more funds get a more comfortable welding shield. (Not necessarily more expensive) Practice. Practice. Practice.
I bought 125 cu ft tank of 25/75 for my 150 Amp MIG in April. It went down to $55.00. This is exchange tank and includes state tax, city tax, DOT safety charges, dog catcher fee’s, etc. I was shock and placed the invoice in my file cabinet and looked a previous cost. The highest was 2020 Covid price. I am retired and just wanted to weld my Stainless Steel exhaust to my LS engine in my own 67 C10 PU. This my build and last project, so not going to buy a TIG. Note: Guys / Gals, your first tank is higher because you pay a rental-return fee. Plus product. You get your money back when returning if empty of part full. Argon + SS wire in your MIG is fine with a correct regulator and just a small tank. Unless you plan on purging O2 from your pipe to prevent sugaring inside. It’s exhaust, I think a sugaring issue is not on my radar. It not milk, it’s exhaust. Thanks for sharing!
you miss the main point of flux core, its cleaner (the flux) burns and creates a gas that then cleans the weld like a MIG would. Other then some slag from the burnt flux or spatter from the thin wall wire they are the same strength and by matching the correct gauge wire can reduce spatter as well as reversing polarity. You can make a .30 solid mig wire spatter with a 220v welder maxed out
@SouthernGround This method came about from working in remote areas. google line boring and bore welding. Sometimes a weld pass can take an hour. In the feild sheilding gas and wind don't mix. Welding castiron, cast steel and high tensile. Only need enough air flow to remove fumes.
as someone who took the welding class high school and is almost 40 and even started a welding company, dont do this. what hes saying does make sense, but why get used to welding without a nozzle then when you switch to mig you have to learn that process with the nozzle. the nozzle does a few things and its going to depend on what youre welding. generally speaking the nozzle will recess the tip and if you take your wire cutters and trim it off flush with the nozzle youre stick out distance is the same all the time and you dont have to worry about holding the nozzle off the work piece as its also an insulator and will prevent you from grounding out the tip along with protecting the tip from the majority of spatter. also some people will grind the nozzle back so the tip is flush with the nozzle and it does the same thing as hes talking about and it works with mig also so theres no new learning curve and no need to buying a special nozzle. and be careful with the anti spatter and gel as it just adds to the toxins youre breathing in while welding.
Spot on' the guys a clown i'd like to see him in a Fab' shop with a 600 Amp Miller to work with ......
Rubbish. I manage an LNG/aviation/oil/mining company and have 200 men under me. What this video is suggesting is completely correct. Skilled welders swap processes whenever required from TIG pressure welding on 20,000kpa gas compressor pipelines, to 1.6mm flux core on outdoor mining hoppers, to short-arc gas mig. Your excuse shows your own experience shortfalls, and your low expectations of others.
@@leso204can't fathom the difference here? 😂
@@gw5436 hey jackass he wasnt talking about skilled welders. and you mention TIG which doesnt apply to this but also requires gas, and 1.6MM is a welding rod, the only thing that would apply would be the MIG but for some reason youre adding gas into it when short-arc mig is the proper term and the G in mig already stands for gas. so im not really sure what youre trying to say but just stay in your office
Wow that’s a lot of words too bad I ain’t reading them
I was told this a while back from a welder friend and it does make a big difference. The other thing he said was get some scrap steel and practice, practice, practice......Good advice as always in your posts, keep up the good work.
Right on!
Wow!!! This is a game changer! Here I've been welding with flux-core for 25 years and never thought to remove the gas shield. Excellent!!!
are you serious?
The downside is when you weld 350- 400 amps it gets very bright without the shield.
Got to love it when flux only welders come with a gas shield.
I've been welding 2.5yrs at home. Just now grabed som C02. Thinking its gona be so so nice not having that cloud running in my nose, but I'm not looking forward to the fater tip.
There are shorter plastic shrouds to put on your gun for flux core. They help keep the spatter off of your tip, but they don’t make the weld any better. Get gas. Use it. Make better welds.
I got an account at AirGas, bought a small cylinder, and my welds improved like magic.
I weld every so often and learned that trick removing the noz soon after starting. I bought the Lincoln 225 that uses fluxcore wire and very happy with what I can do with it.
Right on!
I tossed my nozzle from my flux core many years ago. Completely changed the game. All the nozzle did was fill up with slag and flux and it was a pain to clean it so often because it just got clogged up very quickly.
I've got a cheap Mastercraft flux-core welder I picked up years ago. Plugs into 120, which makes it very handy to lug around to where I'm working (I also don't have a 240v line in the garage). One knob for feed speed and just high/low voltage and amperage switches. One day I want to invest in a multi-process welder (being able to TIG-weld aluminum would be very handy my repairs as well), but even what I have now has been very valuable for doing repairs for my landscaping equipment and my trailer. Even at the hobbiest level, having a basic flux-core welder is a good investment!
Can't believe there's still new stuff to learn here. Bits and Tricks. THANKS!
Right on!
I figured this out shortly after buying my Mig welder. I got frustrated and gently removed the nozzle and gingerly tossed it to the side. When I couldn't find it "because it was windy and the wind carried it too far" I just continued without it and my welds improved instantly.
I love that nozzle gel. It keeps my hair just the way I style it.
Haha, and holds throughout the day too!
*I'm A Dapper Dan Man!!!*
Excellent advice. Just FCAW welded a 22g sheet panel repair on my sons car. Wish I had seen this first and removed the MIG tip. Repair still came out great but this would have made it easier.
The best tip ever for a beginner, this was a life saver for me.
Glad it was helpful!
I just bought a flux core tip for my welder it was like $8 and works great.
Exactly, they make a tip specifically to protect the parts that need protection while allowing visibility.
A couple old timer welders I know will cut back a nozzle to use for flux core. It protects the gas ports but makes flux core welding easier.
Thanks for this. So simple, and I literally just figured it out for myself. I was struggling massively to keep sight of my puddle. Took the MIG tip off, and all my welds improved dramatically. Yes, I'm new to welding.
Right on, thanks!
Same here!
Same here. My welds did improve but I still suck.
I used to do ornamental welding... hand rails, decorative balcony rails, Gates etc... 1/2" X 1/2" pickets, 1 1/2" posts (smaller welds) and with what I'm going to recommend I also did
4" X 4" X 1/4" posts as well as heavier welds too.
0.030 welding wire really helped me to put down really nice/beautiful/"ornamental welds" that I literally painted over after only wire wheeling the dingle balls off. (press read more)
A bit slower for the larger welds yes but the welds were full pen and I came to prefer welding downhill rather than uphill as the smaller wire gave me the needed puddle control to do so. If you're used to 0.045 you won't like it at first but keep with it for just a little while to find the new wire speed and heat adjustments and you'll come to appreciate the provided control and versatility of .030 flex core wire. It was also much better for cast iron welding! .030 flux core wire came to be all that I used (95% of the time), contaminants floated out better too.
Very Pure welds and with proper penetration! BION
If changing from gas wire to flux core wire or vice versa... """don't forget to reverse the welders polarity"""! Admittedly most of you won't like 0.030 flux core wire because it's a little slower but I loved it!
Dudes... the welds don't take long, it's the prep and the set up that takes the time and I had no weld grinding to do when I finished, just dingle ball removal with a wire wheel so... does the "project" actually take longer? No!
0.030 flux core... try it! Don't forget the 0.030 welder tips and a 0.030 roller wheel for your welder too. Both are very inexpensive and "super-simple to exchange" Cheers: Robert
Good prep work takes time, but results in much better welds, especially when you're repairing something that's been used and abused in the elements for years instead of working with fresh stock. Getting down to bare metal when repairing a trailer is always a huge hassle, but necessary if you don't want the weld to fail on you.
And a generator if you can afford it because extension cords to the fence line reduce arc power and can cause " black popcorn buildup" from weak electricity supply . A voltage drop or something on long extension cords .
I think a 10 pound roll could be made onto a spool rack on the back of one of these little welders and drill a hole in the back wall of the welder in line with the wire feed roller and feed the wure through a plastic tube
NICE SHORT VIDEO. very informative, especially the nozzle info and spray and gel. Knocks spots of of a lot of other videos. well done
Worth a note, you can with an angle grinder, chop about half an inch off the standard mig nozzle, this protects a lot of the diffuser. and you can see more of the contactor..
Right on, thanks!
Aerosol olive oil cooking spray can be substituted for anti-spatter spray.
Ask me how I know...
15 years owning an exhaust shop and I wish I had you as an employee!... WOW, 99% of times that huge gas nozzle hurt ue but we hated the spatter etc...... Wish i knew then what I know now i guess!
my friend Welds for NASA and NASCAR his welds on stainless and aluminum are amazing he developed a gas shield to get extra saturation he also does aircraft stainless elbows
Great tip (no pun intended). I will definitely try that since I have so much trouble seeing my welds.
Really good info thank you, i removed the shroud ages ago and thought doing so would be frowned upon by pro welders as the tip gets choked with spatter, now i know about anti spatter gel ill give it a try and im definitely having one of them nozzles makes it look legit
Great tips, I bought 3 items after watching this video. Thanks
Right on, good deal!
You do want some sort of nozzle for flux core. Particularly if you’re new to welding, you’re going to find a lot of spatter on your torch end. While antispatter and nozzle gel works, it’s not perfect, so large BBs do weld themselves to the tip.
Just tried removing the shielding nozzle after watching this video... and yep, it was a mess! The weld was spattering all over the place, deep holes all over the bead... and then on my second attempt it ended up welding a big lump on the end of the tip. Had to grind it right back as it wouldn't break off. Put the nozzle back on and it was perfectly good again. Not sure about this "#1 Tip and Trick to Improve Flux Core Welding" at all.... haha.
Thanks!
Thanks watajob. Much appreciated!
I saw on another channel that they wrap Teflon tape over the gas holes and threads, which is much cheaper and has superb visibility.
Thank you, that sounds like a good option for FCAW method! I think I will give it a go brother! 👍🏻
Good info, thank-you. I've got a Mini Mig 130 E , and that nozzle broke off. It is not a threaded piece, and i didn't know what to do. YOU, sir, solved my ' problem '. It is a non-gas flux core machine, so i'll take that advice /info and apply it to my situation. Thanks, again ! Will try that paste.....
I got shot of my welding shroud along time ago and only use fluxcore and have never used expensive gas. Yours sincerely from the old qeer corrupt UK 🇬🇧
Nozzle dip or spray is porosity in a can. Burn a couple of seconds weld on scrap to burn off the volatiles in the spray/dip. The need for it is eliminated if you keep your nozzle clean and smooth. Take the time before starting to dress any nicks out. No banging it on the work to get the spatter ring off. I never had any problem with using a full size nozzle, if there was a clearance problem, just slightly oval a standard nozzle with a hammer. Got my Journeyman Ship fitter card in 1976.
Always good policy to protect your gas hole form spatter balls! 🤣 Love your channel, my kid is in a joint high school-college welding program and I found myself very interested in learning the dark art, myself!
Right on, good luck!
I think everyone smoked Joints in high school
I'm no sure why in the world it took me so long to figure out that I can weld flux core much better without the gas nozzle foreskin . I welded gas dual shield in the trade for years and it just seemed normal to have it on when welding. some good points.
Right on, thanks!
I'm a begging welder, if I am tack welding only such as on sheet metal, would you use the spatter spray and nozzle gel? Thanks for your comments.
Leave the nozzle on unless you like buying contact tips !!The nozzel protects from grounding
And also controls arc length and makes
Tacking easier.
With it off or better yet with a flux core nozzle you can see your stick out distance better and then you won't ground out! I do agree with tacking, old timers would tack by simply contacting the nozzle to work piece and pull the trigger. For beginners it's easier to learn without.
Agree I welded a tip as soon as I shortened my standard nozzle. You get used to it providing a gap buffer. Put a new battery in my welding helmet and learn to re judge the distance and all will be good again.
I like the plastic nozzle for flux core it gives the contact tip more longevity.
In tight places it keeps the end from burning up, hince shorter gun life, unless you like buying new gun's
Flux core was actually my final setup. Ive been mig/tig/stick welding for around 12 years now for work. I have no need for those applications at home though, so flux is cheap and if you know what youre doing it can be as good as the rest. A little research goes a LONG way.
Right on! You can probably flux weld with your eyes closed!
Just found your channel. I gotta say, your putting out fantastic content and it's been fun to watch. Keep it up!
Great tips thanks, on spatter, how big an area of spatter should I expect, I have very limited space and that's my biggest fear
I'd say maybe a couple feet all around.
I'll have to try that out. You figure if it comes with the welder it is a needed part!
I know, right! Thanks!
Wow great video I am a new flux core welder I will definitely use your advice when I try welding again.thanks .👍
Experienced welder here. If your new to this I would advise leaving the nozzle on till you learn to handle the gun.. it also protects the tip from touching the work... you can try but have lots of tips on hand!! When the tip touches the work area it arcks the tip and ruins it!! Also get some contact dip to dip the tip when its hot every once in awhile... I've welded alot in the field with flux core and once you learn the nozzle really doesn't matter to much. I like the tip protection it provides!!! You will see in time what I'm talking about? Good luck..
Wayne
@@wayneortmeier5352 Just tried removing the shielding nozzle after watching this video... and yep, it was a mess! The weld was spattering all over the place, deep holes all over the bead... and then on my second attempt it ended up welding a big lump on the end of the tip. Had to grind it right back as it wouldn't break off. Put the nozzle back on and it was perfectly good again. Granted I'm very new to welding (just started), but not at all sure about this "#1 Tip and Trick to Improve Flux Core Welding" at all.... haha.
I learned to mig weld in 1978. There was nozzle jell used back then.
Right on!
awesome! I never herd of spatter spray or nozzle gel. I'm going to welder supply tomorrow!
Right on!
What great hints. I teach kids about welding and being able to see what you're doing is a game changer!!!
Thanks a bunch for the tips about the tips. It was very helpful thanks again....Have a GOD blessed rest of the year
The number one trick is actually to use gas. Using both gas and flux you can weld right thru the dirt
great tips, and i am in the market for a beginner flux core welder just for small jobs and was asking what your thoughts on the century fc90 for my startup hobby? And which welder would you recommend for a never before welder.
The regular MIG nozzle is good for tack welding without a hood since it's not hot with the trigger pulled. Just put the nozzle against the weld point, close your eyes and squeeze the trigger.
Not good advice
Did you try it!
Did you mean not hot without the trigger pulled?
I did that for years and got my face and neck burnt all the time, now I pay for it in skin damage, bad practices will catch up to you in the end.
nov 2 2023
caught yur remqrk about having a reverse polarity switch. and lacking one means its
only flux core.
my lincoln 140 has no such switch.
so now i know it is not upgradeable to tig with a gas bottle and a different hose.
eager to try the nozzle shield removal. its warming back up to the 60's
here in colorado near pueblo. and that means its welding - weather outside
Hello! You can see the welding area very well. What mask or filter do you use?
Any auto darkening helmet should do.
is nozzle gel the same as flux for soldering? It looks and smells identical. I ask because I only have a little bit of Noz Dip but I got a shit tonne of Soldering flux
Not sure, try it out!
And the #1 tip switching from MIG to FCAW - confirm you have the machine set to recommended polarity
How?
Thanks, happy welding! 😀
This is a decent idea for people who plan on exclusively using FCAW. That being said, maybe just get used to good positioning instead. Once you get enough time under the hood you dont even need to watch the puddle that closely
THANKS FOR THE TIPS. WAY BACK BEFORE A LONG TIME AGO, WE USED OUR CUTTING TORCH WITH PROPANE AND OXYGEN SOME BORAX SOAP FOR FLUX, BRASS ROD, OR HAYWIRE TO WELD UP JUST ABOUT ANYTHING.
My friends Dad always mocked the younger generations for not using "the one and only true welding process" gas welding.
gas welding skills are the base for Mig, Tig and stick, if you can master gas you can master anything. he was correct.
Great vid, all useful content, no filler BS!
Glad you liked it!
So didn't know about the flux core only nozzles...need one of them cause when your welding crap material most of the time it destroys the gun not that i think it will protect the bits that aren't replaceable (damn splatter) and spatter spray is great when its viable.
Everything is an investment and if you can afford the extra great, but sadly some of us live in a cents/dollar world where even spending $20 for a better finish is feeding myself
Thanks for upload
I took the nozzle off mine at home years ago it is only there to shield the gas and i never use gas at home only at work.
This came with the instructions on my Lincoln 30 years ago.
Right on!
Flux core is the superior process over MIG. First, it's got the lowest entry fee of any process because you don't need the gas & bottle, & FC-only machines are cheaper than dual/multi-process machines. (Stay away from that black box from harbor freight.) 2d, it is far better for welding outdoors because there's no gas to blow away in the breeze. 3d, flux core provides better penetration than MIG. The only drawback, arguably, is the appearance of the bead. Flux core vs MIG is sort of the 6010 vs 6013 comparison in stick welding. Practice will improve FC bead appearance, but, if strength is the only concern, you'll get it done better with the flux core. That said, you'll likely hear many people say that flux core is the hot glue of welding. That is absolute garbage. Those are the people who don't cut and etch their welds to see which process is best. Run a T- joint with MIG on one diet and FC on the other. Then cut & etch it. You'll see an obvious difference in penetration on anything thick than, say, ⅛" steel.
Black box? You mean a 170 Chicago electric? What’s wrong with it?
@keltonwilt1499 yes, that's the one. It's okay for hobby stuff on thin material, but it doesn't like anything over ⅛". Very few settings options, and the duty cycle will have a guy drunk before the job is finished. For not too much more money, you could get into a titanium stick machine that will do far more for you. That said, the black box is great if you are just testing the hobby to see if you like welding. It lowers the entry fee and won't hurt too much if you decide that welding isn't your cha-cha. There is a good reason why those machines are so common in craigslist. They're the Honda Rebel of welders. But one, run it for a couple weeks, then upgrade to something that'll get you on the road.
I was told otherwise by an old head regardless if fcaw or gmaw if done properly it has the same tensile strength
My Harley flux core rig came with a mig nozzle. It will be leaving shortly. 😀 Eric.
Right on!
Where did you get the cool round welding plate?
It was from a fab shop. It was the "drop" from a larger plate. If you has steel fabrication shops if they have any "drop" they want to get rid of some will just give it to you for free.
You can also kind of "walk the cup'
with the nozzle or just use it as a slide on 90°
Any recommendations of generator size I would want to buy for this? I really don't want to use household lines for it.
3000 Watt for just minimum settings. 4000 to 5000 if you want to to any thicker material. (Thicker than 1/8")
It's crazy that this is such a simple rule applied to flux core but alot of people still do flux with the mig nozzle
I know, right!
Not laughing at you but that's what came with my flux core welder. You can't even add gas to mine. Glad I watched this video.
Just wondering, let's say I'm welding a 10 feet long metal, which one consumes more electrode, stick welding or mig? Which one will do the job cheaper( cost of electrode only, gas for mig excluded)?
That is the life long welder question. I've yet to see a good video showing that.
Edit: Source - I'm a trade qualified welder and metal fabricator.
While this is convenient and makes it more simple for Gasless FCAW, be aware there is also Dual Shield FCAW which will require you keep the gas shroud on your gun and run the correct gas type for the particular weld you're trying to produce.
Although I have one of my home welders set up with Gasless FCAW, with no shroud on for quick little jobs around my property, I would suggest leaving it on purely because once you've learnt with the shroud on, you can pick up any MIG/MAG/Dual Shielded type welder and not have to figure it out all over again.
Learn how to do it the correct way, then once you have it nailed, then figure out what tricks/hacks you can get away with and on what jobs!! If you do this from day one, you might save time on cleaning your nozzle, but waste more money and time swapping out your contact tips because you keep touching it on your work piece. Your gas shroud is also your insulator.
Can you change the spring coiled diffuser to one threaded? Very important. I can’t get a “slip on” nozzle here in Denmark, only ones with thread. Please
Ups. Just bought the Arccaptain 200
Sorry haven't ever tried. The Arcaptain is a good one! Have fun welding!
Is Flux Core as good as MiG for the sole purpose of extracting broken bolts from aluminum blocks? Looking for a setup for that sole purpose... need a bit of direction...can you build up a broken bolt by layering up flux core bead or do you run into problem with slag etc...?
Is the copper tip actually supposed to protrude beyond the outer nozzle? I’ve always liked it inside just a little. To protect it. I always thought it was supposed to be this way.maybe I should try it your way. Nothing worse than the wire getting stuck at the very end of the tip. Then you spend the next ten minutes fixing it. Maybe I learned something today?😀
Right on!
I wrap my nozzle in al foil, works.
Simple and effective, I like it!
I used all my tin foil on my hat
Thanks. I was about to ask about foil.
I may try that. I really dislike the plastic flux cover bs. They should be aluminum or something cause they melt too easy…
Foiled again!
Thanks for the nozzle tip tomorrows job
I use a TIG welding nozzle which slips on my Lincoln Handi-MIG quite easily.
Good to know!
I need a advice. I have HFT titanium 125 and my wire is getting stuck in and not pushing it to weld. What do I do wrong?
I started doing this 2 years ago
I put heat shrink rap over the copper part of the nosel .
>> heat shrink rap
That's actually some helpful info. Thanks friend.
Right on!
Thanks for the demo sir i'll try it for my nxt project...
Cooking spray works great as a anti spatter spray it’s a lot cheaper and you can buy it in bulk at grocery stores
1:30 "Only purpose is to protect the gas holes from spatter balls" LMAO
Wat other kind of wire can u use on an eazy 100 Chicago MiG welder I just bout one but it didn't come with all the papers that come with it
Any chance of you trying out the primeweld stick 160? Would like to get your pros and cons. Love the videos. Thanks
I'll have to add that one to the list.
Great video and great advice as usual. I’ve learned so much from you and a couple other guys on here already.
Much appreciated!
I cannot find a single video on RUclips where someone is flux-core welding 24-gauge square tubing. I see tons of videos of folks welding steel plates though. I suspect that flux-welding thin gauge tubing is beyond the skills of most so few (if anyone) is doing it.
I'd be forever grateful if you could show how it's done. I have a gazebo made of 24-gauge square tubing and I'm going to have to replace quite a few railings. I sure could use some tips on how to get it done correctly.
I have flux core gun like the one you showed first. Sometimes the trigger sticks and wire feeds out on it's own and I have to bang the tip to stop it. I have taken the it apart and it still sticks any Suggestions?
If you're using Flux core without the gas shield, dip an acid brush in anti-spatter and spread it on everything the nozzle covered
The nozzle can prevent the tip from arching out especially for learners until such time as they learn to float the tip.
Without the nozzle or by using a flux core nozzle you can see that distance better. If you are still contacting the work piece you need to work on your stick out.
@@-DIYPRO- Exactly what I said.
Thank you for the useful advise and links
My pleasure!
MM, I have the same Vulcan 220 as you. I need an "O" ring for my gun cable lead where it fits into the machine. I have looked everywhere and i can't find one. Can you give am an idea where to look?
good vid.. right to the point and no F$%^& dizzy music! bravo to you sir
Flux Core Wire is self shielding. You don’t need a Nozzle because Inert Gasses are only used for Dual Shield and Solid Core Wires and use the Nozzle to help shield the Weld by directing the Gas Flow over the Weld Puddle.
If you are new and you cant see your puddle. Adjusting your head or arms to get a better view. Get bettter lighting. When you get more funds get a more comfortable welding shield. (Not necessarily more expensive) Practice. Practice. Practice.
I bought 125 cu ft tank of 25/75 for my 150 Amp MIG in April. It went down to $55.00. This is exchange tank and includes state tax, city tax, DOT safety charges, dog catcher fee’s, etc. I was shock and placed the invoice in my file cabinet and looked a previous cost. The highest was 2020 Covid price. I am retired and just wanted to weld my Stainless Steel exhaust to my LS engine in my own 67 C10 PU. This my build and last project, so not going to buy a TIG.
Note: Guys / Gals, your first tank is higher because you pay a rental-return fee. Plus product. You get your money back when returning if empty of part full. Argon + SS wire in your MIG is fine with a correct regulator and just a small tank. Unless you plan on purging O2 from your pipe to prevent sugaring inside. It’s exhaust, I think a sugaring issue is not on my radar. It not milk, it’s exhaust.
Thanks for sharing!
you miss the main point of flux core, its cleaner (the flux) burns and creates a gas that then cleans the weld like a MIG would. Other then some slag from the burnt flux or spatter from the thin wall wire they are the same strength and by matching the correct gauge wire can reduce spatter as well as reversing polarity. You can make a .30 solid mig wire spatter with a 220v welder maxed out
The gas flow nizzle can prevent the copper tip from bendind and breaking in transit .
I have used that anti splatter before and I swear it's just window cleaner. Even spraying water on the part would help with the splatter balls.
Even with low hydrogen rods?
Dose this work with dual shielded
No, that will require gas. Mig nozzle is required anytime you are running gas.
Very informative and explained simply. Will definitely look into nozzle gel.
When I bought my mig years ago it came with both nozzles and silicone spray works just as good as the spatter spray but cheeper
Silicon works good too.
Wow! This a huge help. Thanks!
What kind of gel is that? And spray?
Im use to it helps me from getting to close and wrecking my tip
I use flux core wire on my machine welder. I use compressed air to cool the tip, which extends tip life.
and the air will blow the weld puddle and your welds fill not be good, it's not arc gouging.
@@SouthernGround Hi, i do this when bore welding prior to line boring. Never had a failure awlays good finish. Give it a go.
@@bencrosby2364 what object are you welding? "bore welding" like in a blind hole?
@SouthernGround This method came about from working in remote areas. google line boring and bore welding. Sometimes a weld pass can take an hour. In the feild sheilding gas and wind don't mix.
Welding castiron, cast steel and high tensile. Only need enough air flow to remove fumes.
When I don’t have a nozzle on, the gas diffuser gets damaged. I ordered a flux core nozzle and when I used it it melted
What amperage are you running?