Seeing the puddle has always been a major problem- it ties in strongly with the right helmet settings, which are also a mystery. As an extremely nearsighted guy with floaters, I have a hard time even reading, so looking at the puddle with bad eyes, floaters, a smoked up and dusty lens from trying to look too closely, and light dazzled eyes from the auto helmet darkening too late…. Long story short I’ve been through two semesters of welding class where I failed both, and on and off trying to weld for 30 years now, its a bit of an issue. But I will keep trying until I can’t move my hands anymore. Anyone that says welding is easy hasn’t tried to teach this Mr Magoo to weld. That being said, these videos are the best resource I’ve ever had, because rather than banging on about how easy it is, you are actually addressing real problems that I have, without making me feel dumberer.
Thanks, Tim. Being able to see the puddle has been my biggest issue, primarily due to reflections from behind the helmet once the arc is struck. I now have a t-shirt jury rigged across the back to block out ambient light. Helps immensely!
I did that as well. Then I bought a back hood to put onto my helmet. It was vastly superior to the cloth that I was using. Also look at adding a bib to the front. I did this as well and the ability to see the weld puddle and the area around the weld puddle helped tremendously in being able to lay down consistent straight beads.
@@paulkurilecz4209From one Paul to the next Thank you tremendously. My fix was a headlamp over my helmet and then another one when they got covered in splatter 😂 but your solution actually fixed my seemingly random weld blindness.
Hi Tim. I have just purchased a Ssinder 140 stick / flux core welder. My dad taught me to weld many many years ago so I thought I would try and reignite my skills, not for work, mainly for a hobby as I am disabled (2 stroke survivor) and your videos are a god send.
I'm no master welder, but a trick an old coworker showed my that helped on autobody thin panels, was putting a wet rag behind the weld surface and (I was using gas shielded mig might be different with fluxcore) he said to just stack tack welds. So it's weld a puddle, stop and let it cool, then weld half way through that tack with another, stop let it cool, etc. It came out awesome. Also was easy to clean up to get that smooth autobody finish. Hope that's helpful to someone.
Excellent advice. Being able to see the puddle is the most important things in welding, being able to control the puddle is second. It's only second because you can't control what you can't see. My first auto darkening helmet was a cheap one and I loved it. It was great being able to see to strike the arc and having it darken all by its lonesome and lighten up when the flash was done. My welds kinda suffered when I started using it and couldn't figure out why. I loved it! Then I realized I just wasn't seeing the puddle like I should was was really only making half decent beads because of experience and muscle memory. I switched to a bronze lens Speedglas that's literally like flicking on a light bulb, I can see everything! A decent helmet (fixed lens or auto dark) and magnifying glasses if you need them, if you need them to read you need them to weld! I paint cars more than I weld but the skills and techniques are very similar and easily transferable. Thanks for the tips, you're definitely one of my favorite welding channels. Now I feel like I need to go out to the garage and run beads using flux core, it's been awhile since I've used flux core for anything other than a quick zap. I keep a cheap Chicago Electric flux core wire feed welder for tasks like that and my Lincoln for most other things. I've got a big old Forney buzz box that gets used for the heavy duty stuff, like 1/2" plate bumpers that Jeep guys seem to like (and then wonder why they handle so badly lol) Thanks again
I'm totally new to flux welding or welding in general. I exercised first at a piece of metal and it was fine. When I started to weld the joint at the same speed, I made holes into the material. I turned down the machine and it got better. Boy I got a long way to go.
I'm going to admit something that probably many welders won't. I've been welding for a little more than 12 years, but most has been with GSMAW/Gas shielded mig, only last few months I've wanted to get back into getting familiar with fluxcore. Well, it's been almost 2 months since my last bit of welding... and, oh wow I put down some ugly welds. So bad I told myself "OK, te to take a step back, go do something else for a little and come back to it". During my break I looked up your video here. Not only was I moving too fast, I've got a lot of stressful things on my mind, and I wasn't paying alot of attention to my settings. Somewhere in moving the welder around my knows got moved and it assisted in my confusion with why things were so off. I was getting over temp alarms on my welder, and one sided beading of my weld in a vertical down lap joint on 3/16 steel. My prep was good my positioning was... not great... and too hot with way too slow wire feed, while moving too fast. I was in a hurry. A hurry to feel like a dumby apparently. And that my welder friends is something I've never ever seen a fellow welder admit face to face. Ever. Stay humble, stay hungry for knowledge, and as always Be thankful for the guys willing to share their knowledge and skills to keep us from loosing our minds when we get off track with what we're doing with our welds. jeez... I'm glad my friends haven't seen this weld, I better clean it up and fix it before anyone sees it... I got a reputation and what not... lol
spot on - welding for about a month and I did not see the puddle until last week. changed my welding life. much more enjoyable when you can see actually see the target.
Good video. I can vouch for the bead padding exercise. It definitely helps you learn to be very consistent in how beads are being laid down. It also will show very quickly as to how well you are wetting in (fusing) to the previous bead. Then I recommend sawing the coupon in half perpendicular to the weld travel to check the cross section.
Thank you! Showing what the weld puddle is, is something youtubers aren't too good at. I have only done spot welds with my flux core until now, so this information was very useful.
Thanks! I don’t like to do that because it leaves the diffuser exposed to get contaminated with a bunch of spatter and fume. I also don’t find the view to be a problem, but if it’s helpful for you, that’s awesome!
I enjoyed you explanations about welding, I'm new to it and i purchased the 125 and after watching this, gives me a hope that i will be good at welding. i highly recommend any one who want to start off welding for crafts, Dyi, or simply welding around the house I would watch this video, explains are on point. Thank again. ! Eric from California
Great video - thank you. Got probably 2 hrs total weld time but feel like I’m starting to get the hang of it after a 1 evening course. Our instructor said “lousy welders are usually good grinders …” lol. Will watch for that magic puddle for sure.
I first learned oxy acetylene welding in school. I was exceptional at it. I am trying mig for the first time. I am hoping the general principles of walking the puddle will be the same when using mig. Thanks for the info
*my uncle's boss let me try it out and almost hired me if I wasn't still in school at the time... I love Welding and flux was my favorite even if I had a little bit of it*
Awesome vid. Thank you for the great explanation. The comparison of spraying automotive finishes and being able to "see" your welding puddles helped me out big time. Nice post.
As in all your videos, you provide great advice in an easliy understable presentation. Your videos have been a great help and teaching tool. Thank you.
There's a machine - by Azzuno - that runs on 110/220v & will run a stable arc at 40amps with 0.8mm flux core wire. I only have mine 2 weeks so am still discovering what it can do - I have a lot of flux core machines (work) - so far, it's a game changer. It will - I've not come across ANY other welder that can - run a continuous weld bead on 1mm butted steel joints with full penetration & no blowing holes with 0.8mm flux wire. It's the closest thing to Tig I have come across in a Mig or Gasless welder. I had a customer in today wanting a 1mm galvanised steel sheetmetal roof surround shaped, welded & fitted to their vehicle - which meant welding 4 sections together to form 1 full surround. The damn Azzuno ran solid beads on every joint - with any other machine I have (loads) I would have had to tack tack tack that assembly together. Not today - I just welded ahead full runs, full penetration & neat like you tigged it. Mind = Blown. They are, in my humble opinion, the absolute best welder you can lay hands on for thin material running flux core wire. Unbelievably good. How much distortion is caused by 40 amps? None I could see. Nada. Unreal.
Hey Tim I'm new to welding and got a 3in1 gasless welding machine for flux core mig. The machine only has amps n volts knobs and the digital display only displays amps. I'm on sure I. How to set wire speed n go a out fully using this machine
I don't remember which machine I was using in this video, but if it has the gas nozzle, it's also a MIG welder. Some people take it off when using flux core, but I don't like to do that because you get more spatter and debris on the diffuser.
Very good lesson for the most part, my only question is why is it that it looks like you are pulling your welds with fluxcore. In school I was always taught you never pull Flux for as tour puddle cools your pushing slag into your puddle, creating an impure weld that will fail an x-ray and sometimes fail a bend test as well. Note this is from a structural welding stand point. Yes normal home projects that technique works . Not trying to be that guy just want to make sure
This is nice however I can't see the direction. Because the arc is bright and I can't see the joint. I've had to adjust the protection of darkness to see where I'm welding. With it dark it's like welding blind. Even when your welding
When you are welding I can't t see the direction that you are welding I don't see the line that you are welding in your video. I don't have a problem getting a nice straight weld if I can see where I'm 'welding
In the first few scenes, have those welds been clean up? I am very new to welding and trying with a gasless mig flux core. When I lift my hood the welds are never that shiny, not even close.
Hi. Not really related to the video but do you have any advice on why when im welding gasless flux core sometimes I have to get a closer tip to contact for it to weld smoother.
Traveling torch on reverse will block your view to where you need to weld, i"m right handed and travel torch from right to left with a slight angle just enough to see the puddle.
I hear you. I’m used to looking past the wire because in real world situations, it’s often that you can’t choose which hand and which direction to go. I’ve done a lot of stick welding and because that process requires a drag angle, you almost always have to look past the rod.
Tim, I was told that you push a mig weld not pull a mig weld. I know that pushing a mig you don't see the puddle so well. Can you illustrate the real direction mig weld between no gas and gas welding? Is the wire speed the temperature setting?
Depends on the transfer mode. For short circuit transfer (which is what most people use), either push or drag is fine. For spray transfer, you need to push. For flux cored without gas, pull.
Yes, wire speed control amperage (heat). Voltage controls arc length and how flat the weld is. Higher voltage gives a longer arc and a more concave weld.
I'm mainly doing it to ground the coupons without leaving marks on the table or having to clamp directly to them. The spatter doesn't really stick to this table, but it's true that I'd rather not make a mess of it when I don't need the fixtures because I'm running coupons for practice or demos.
With most flux core welders, the 2 settings are wire feed speed and voltage. The wire feed speed controls both the rate at which material is added and the amperage (current). Thicker material will need higher wire feed speed. The voltage knob controls the length of the arc, which in turn controls how flat the bead is. To set it, I start with the wire speed to get a bead that penetrates, then fine tune the arc lenght and bead profile with the voltage knob. I have some videos about this on the channel that walk you through the process.
Hey I can't find a video on this but I've used some gasless Flux core a month ago and only got porosity almost every weld and the Flux would not cover the entire weld can anyone tell me possible problems?
When welding a coupon laying on the table, adding more heat can smooth it out, but welding vertically or overhead requires having the correct amount of heat, otherwise the molten metal will just run out of the joint. Better to learn how much heat is needed, versus how much speed is needed to create and control the puddle.
True, either one will work. The main way to control heat is wire speed, which also controls amperage. Turning that up (along with an appropriate change in voltage) will allow the puddle to wet out while adding more material for a given travel speed. Slowing down also increases the heat input because of the added time spent on the weld. I went with travel speed to solve the problem, but you could do the same thing with settings if your machine has the amperage and wire speed. Like @MicahFunk pointed out, though, in certain positions, you have to run a bit cooler with a slower overall progression.
@@TimWelds ive been welding support constructions for highrise buildings for past 6 years, and with 20-50mm thick metal, dragging the torch, or w/e is english correct term, never melts the rood, you pretty much have to push it with flux. Going too slow when dragging will overheat the metal way too much, and its structure will be changed to a form, thats already unworthy. It ruins the material structure itself.
Seeing the puddle has always been a major problem- it ties in strongly with the right helmet settings, which are also a mystery. As an extremely nearsighted guy with floaters, I have a hard time even reading, so looking at the puddle with bad eyes, floaters, a smoked up and dusty lens from trying to look too closely, and light dazzled eyes from the auto helmet darkening too late…. Long story short I’ve been through two semesters of welding class where I failed both, and on and off trying to weld for 30 years now, its a bit of an issue.
But I will keep trying until I can’t move my hands anymore.
Anyone that says welding is easy hasn’t tried to teach this Mr Magoo to weld.
That being said, these videos are the best resource I’ve ever had, because rather than banging on about how easy it is, you are actually addressing real problems that I have, without making me feel dumberer.
you got it man, just gotta keep trying 🤞🏾
Thanks, Tim. Being able to see the puddle has been my biggest issue, primarily due to reflections from behind the helmet once the arc is struck. I now have a t-shirt jury rigged across the back to block out ambient light. Helps immensely!
I did that as well. Then I bought a back hood to put onto my helmet. It was vastly superior to the cloth that I was using. Also look at adding a bib to the front. I did this as well and the ability to see the weld puddle and the area around the weld puddle helped tremendously in being able to lay down consistent straight beads.
Initially uiu I y
@@paulkurilecz4209From one Paul to the next Thank you tremendously. My fix was a headlamp over my helmet and then another one when they got covered in splatter 😂 but your solution actually fixed my seemingly random weld blindness.
Hi Tim. I have just purchased a Ssinder 140 stick / flux core welder. My dad taught me to weld many many years ago so I thought I would try and reignite my skills, not for work, mainly for a hobby as I am disabled (2 stroke survivor) and your videos are a god send.
Awesome! Thank you so much!
@@TimWelds and just followed on IG
Everybody upload videos welding on thick materials. The actual challenge is 16 gauge metals and below!!!
I'm no master welder, but a trick an old coworker showed my that helped on autobody thin panels, was putting a wet rag behind the weld surface and (I was using gas shielded mig might be different with fluxcore) he said to just stack tack welds. So it's weld a puddle, stop and let it cool, then weld half way through that tack with another, stop let it cool, etc. It came out awesome. Also was easy to clean up to get that smooth autobody finish.
Hope that's helpful to someone.
At that point switch to MIG
Excellent advice. Being able to see the puddle is the most important things in welding, being able to control the puddle is second. It's only second because you can't control what you can't see.
My first auto darkening helmet was a cheap one and I loved it. It was great being able to see to strike the arc and having it darken all by its lonesome and lighten up when the flash was done. My welds kinda suffered when I started using it and couldn't figure out why. I loved it! Then I realized I just wasn't seeing the puddle like I should was was really only making half decent beads because of experience and muscle memory. I switched to a bronze lens Speedglas that's literally like flicking on a light bulb, I can see everything!
A decent helmet (fixed lens or auto dark) and magnifying glasses if you need them, if you need them to read you need them to weld!
I paint cars more than I weld but the skills and techniques are very similar and easily transferable.
Thanks for the tips, you're definitely one of my favorite welding channels.
Now I feel like I need to go out to the garage and run beads using flux core, it's been awhile since I've used flux core for anything other than a quick zap. I keep a cheap Chicago Electric flux core wire feed welder for tasks like that and my Lincoln for most other things. I've got a big old Forney buzz box that gets used for the heavy duty stuff, like 1/2" plate bumpers that Jeep guys seem to like (and then wonder why they handle so badly lol)
Thanks again
I'm totally new to flux welding or welding in general. I exercised first at a piece of metal and it was fine. When I started to weld the joint at the same speed, I made holes into the material. I turned down the machine and it got better. Boy I got a long way to go.
I'm going to admit something that probably many welders won't. I've been welding for a little more than 12 years, but most has been with GSMAW/Gas shielded mig, only last few months I've wanted to get back into getting familiar with fluxcore. Well, it's been almost 2 months since my last bit of welding... and, oh wow I put down some ugly welds. So bad I told myself "OK, te to take a step back, go do something else for a little and come back to it". During my break I looked up your video here. Not only was I moving too fast, I've got a lot of stressful things on my mind, and I wasn't paying alot of attention to my settings. Somewhere in moving the welder around my knows got moved and it assisted in my confusion with why things were so off. I was getting over temp alarms on my welder, and one sided beading of my weld in a vertical down lap joint on 3/16 steel. My prep was good my positioning was... not great... and too hot with way too slow wire feed, while moving too fast. I was in a hurry. A hurry to feel like a dumby apparently.
And that my welder friends is something I've never ever seen a fellow welder admit face to face. Ever.
Stay humble, stay hungry for knowledge, and as always Be thankful for the guys willing to share their knowledge and skills to keep us from loosing our minds when we get off track with what we're doing with our welds.
jeez... I'm glad my friends haven't seen this weld, I better clean it up and fix it before anyone sees it... I got a reputation and what not... lol
spot on - welding for about a month and I did not see the puddle until last week. changed my welding life. much more enjoyable when you can see actually see the target.
The other big similarity between welding and painting is preparation!
Good video. I can vouch for the bead padding exercise. It definitely helps you learn to be very consistent in how beads are being laid down. It also will show very quickly as to how well you are wetting in (fusing) to the previous bead. Then I recommend sawing the coupon in half perpendicular to the weld travel to check the cross section.
Thank you! Showing what the weld puddle is, is something youtubers aren't too good at. I have only done spot welds with my flux core until now, so this information was very useful.
If you get rid of the gas nozzle your vision is less obstructed.
Thanks! I don’t like to do that because it leaves the diffuser exposed to get contaminated with a bunch of spatter and fume. I also don’t find the view to be a problem, but if it’s helpful for you, that’s awesome!
Great points! I would have never thought to compare welding to painting but it works, watch the weld!
I enjoyed you explanations about welding, I'm new to it and i purchased the 125 and after watching this, gives me a hope that i will be good at welding. i highly recommend any one who want to start off welding for crafts, Dyi, or simply welding around the house I would watch this video, explains are on point. Thank again. ! Eric from California
Right on Tim! It's like developing a six sense while coordinating your available senses. Know your arc!
Great video - thank you. Got probably 2 hrs total weld time but feel like I’m starting to get the hang of it after a 1 evening course. Our instructor said “lousy welders are usually good grinders …” lol. Will watch for that magic puddle for sure.
I first learned oxy acetylene welding in school. I was exceptional at it. I am trying mig for the first time. I am hoping the general principles of walking the puddle will be the same when using mig. Thanks for the info
*my uncle's boss let me try it out and almost hired me if I wasn't still in school at the time... I love Welding and flux was my favorite even if I had a little bit of it*
Awesome vid. Thank you for the great explanation. The comparison of spraying automotive finishes and being able to "see" your welding puddles helped me out big time. Nice post.
As in all your videos, you provide great advice in an easliy understable presentation. Your videos have been a great help and teaching tool. Thank you.
There's a machine - by Azzuno - that runs on 110/220v & will run a stable arc at 40amps with 0.8mm flux core wire. I only have mine 2 weeks so am still discovering what it can do - I have a lot of flux core machines (work) - so far, it's a game changer.
It will - I've not come across ANY other welder that can - run a continuous weld bead on 1mm butted steel joints with full penetration & no blowing holes with 0.8mm flux wire. It's the closest thing to Tig I have come across in a Mig or Gasless welder. I had a customer in today wanting a 1mm galvanised steel sheetmetal roof surround shaped, welded & fitted to their vehicle - which meant welding 4 sections together to form 1 full surround. The damn Azzuno ran solid beads on every joint - with any other machine I have (loads) I would have had to tack tack tack that assembly together. Not today - I just welded ahead full runs, full penetration & neat like you tigged it. Mind = Blown.
They are, in my humble opinion, the absolute best welder you can lay hands on for thin material running flux core wire. Unbelievably good. How much distortion is caused by 40 amps? None I could see. Nada. Unreal.
I purchased your course and followed each lessons, but that last video and pic nailed it for me.
What about the speed/rate at which the wire comes out. We do have to use some settings...
Thanks for the lesson. One day I will have a space where I can practice this. No purpose for it (yet) but just to learn a new skill using your course.
Hey Tim I'm new to welding and got a 3in1 gasless welding machine for flux core mig. The machine only has amps n volts knobs and the digital display only displays amps. I'm on sure I. How to set wire speed n go a out fully using this machine
Same.
Finally, I can see the "puddle"! Great video. Thanks
I had to learn TIG before I was able to do flux core well :-) It is one of the harder processes in my opinion.
If you are using flux core, why do you have a gas nozzle on the gun.
I don't remember which machine I was using in this video, but if it has the gas nozzle, it's also a MIG welder. Some people take it off when using flux core, but I don't like to do that because you get more spatter and debris on the diffuser.
Very good lesson for the most part, my only question is why is it that it looks like you are pulling your welds with fluxcore. In school I was always taught you never pull Flux for as tour puddle cools your pushing slag into your puddle, creating an impure weld that will fail an x-ray and sometimes fail a bend test as well. Note this is from a structural welding stand point. Yes normal home projects that technique works . Not trying to be that guy just want to make sure
You have push and pull confused. If it makes slag, you drag. Same with stick, never push stick unless vertical uphill maybe.
You drag flux core and push mig
This is nice however I can't see the direction. Because the arc is bright and I can't see the joint. I've had to adjust the protection of darkness to see where I'm welding. With it dark it's like welding blind. Even when your welding
When you are welding I can't t see the direction that you are welding I don't see the line that you are welding in your video. I don't have a problem getting a nice straight weld if I can see where I'm 'welding
In the first few scenes, have those welds been clean up? I am very new to welding and trying with a gasless mig flux core. When I lift my hood the welds are never that shiny, not even close.
Yeah, they had been wire brushed. They’ll always have light slag and brown dust on them.
Loved the video.. Straight to the point.
If I don’t see a weld puddle does that mean I need to increase my amps?
Great tutorial
I would like to see you try that on sheet metal! :)
Awesome video, very informative. Thank you for sharing.
How flux core got bad reputation? Mostly welders put it in gas shield MIG and its polarity is wrong.
Great tutorial
Como puedo encontrar tus videos subtitulados en español estoy iniciando mi camino en la soldadura con flux core
RUclips tiene una funcion llamada "Closed Caption (CC)" pulsa el raton y selecciona "Español" y el video es traducido a el idioma que selecciones.
Hi. Not really related to the video but do you have any advice on why when im welding gasless flux core sometimes I have to get a closer tip to contact for it to weld smoother.
Fantastic video really enjoyed this and absolutely fantastic advice 👍
Thank you!
Traveling torch on reverse will block your view to where you need to weld, i"m right handed and travel torch from right to left with a slight angle just enough to see the puddle.
I hear you. I’m used to looking past the wire because in real world situations, it’s often that you can’t choose which hand and which direction to go. I’ve done a lot of stick welding and because that process requires a drag angle, you almost always have to look past the rod.
The first 30 sec of this video is too accurate 😅
Tim, I was told that you push a mig weld not pull a mig weld. I know that pushing a mig you don't see the puddle so well.
Can you illustrate the real direction mig weld between no gas and gas welding?
Is the wire speed the temperature setting?
Depends on the transfer mode. For short circuit transfer (which is what most people use), either push or drag is fine. For spray transfer, you need to push. For flux cored without gas, pull.
Yes, wire speed control amperage (heat). Voltage controls arc length and how flat the weld is. Higher voltage gives a longer arc and a more concave weld.
Good advice!
Reading glasses or glasses in general can make a huge difference in weld quality. If you need them, you need them. Just saying.
Tim, are you using the extra plate on your table to protect the table from splatter?
I'm mainly doing it to ground the coupons without leaving marks on the table or having to clamp directly to them. The spatter doesn't really stick to this table, but it's true that I'd rather not make a mess of it when I don't need the fixtures because I'm running coupons for practice or demos.
What table is that?
Hi can you use flux core to weld 1 3/4 mild steel tubing for chassis
Yes, you can, though it’s not ideal. I would recommend MIG or TIG for that work if possible.
How to set current and amps ..in different thikness jobs
With most flux core welders, the 2 settings are wire feed speed and voltage. The wire feed speed controls both the rate at which material is added and the amperage (current). Thicker material will need higher wire feed speed. The voltage knob controls the length of the arc, which in turn controls how flat the bead is. To set it, I start with the wire speed to get a bead that penetrates, then fine tune the arc lenght and bead profile with the voltage knob. I have some videos about this on the channel that walk you through the process.
Hey I can't find a video on this but I've used some gasless Flux core a month ago and only got porosity almost every weld and the Flux would not cover the entire weld can anyone tell me possible problems?
I may be wrong but I believe the polarity has to be changed between gas and flux. Check your operators manual.
amazing
Also more heat.
When welding a coupon laying on the table, adding more heat can smooth it out, but welding vertically or overhead requires having the correct amount of heat, otherwise the molten metal will just run out of the joint.
Better to learn how much heat is needed, versus how much speed is needed to create and control the puddle.
True, either one will work. The main way to control heat is wire speed, which also controls amperage. Turning that up (along with an appropriate change in voltage) will allow the puddle to wet out while adding more material for a given travel speed. Slowing down also increases the heat input because of the added time spent on the weld. I went with travel speed to solve the problem, but you could do the same thing with settings if your machine has the amperage and wire speed. Like @MicahFunk pointed out, though, in certain positions, you have to run a bit cooler with a slower overall progression.
Great video lesson but I have to mention, it’s NOT a gun, it’s a torch!
Take your gas cup off aswell.helps see your puddle.
Are you scared to get closer to to the metal? Why you got the wire hanging out like that lol
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼😎
I mean, the answer is simple. Take off that funny hat with the visor and you'll have a much better view. /s
for a short time at least:)
thank you sir..
and where you weld where weld has to hold, this does not work, because you dont weld the root at all.
You can hit the root with an appropriate travel speed on self-shielded flux core...it's actually one of the more robust processes for that.
@@TimWelds ive been welding support constructions for highrise buildings for past 6 years, and with 20-50mm thick metal, dragging the torch, or w/e is english correct term, never melts the rood, you pretty much have to push it with flux. Going too slow when dragging will overheat the metal way too much, and its structure will be changed to a form, thats already unworthy. It ruins the material structure itself.