Not necessarily the battery. Check the fuses under the hood. Be sure all of them completely pushed in. Simple and less expensive. The 2013 and up. The fuses are know for wanting to pop out. Just check each one, by pushing them down til you hear a click. Most the time that will fix the flickering instrument panel.
I have a 2013 dodge pickup crew cab and I did push in all the fuses down and it still flickers .. I want to autozone and they checked my battery and alternator, it’s all good .. what else can I check .. tia. Mike R
@@miguelramirez2439 same thing with my 13 Laramie ! It flashes on and off when I have it on high brightness only . I pushed all the fuses down and nothing has fixed it . Let me know if you found a solution
I had a problem, I found it on the TPMS connection, the wire became corroded and the voltage disappeared, I fixed it and now everything works this is 100% problem
It's failing LED's in the LCD screen. It's not the battery, it's not the fuses and it's not the alternator. If your battery was failing, it wouldn't be able to crank the engine. If your alternator was bad you wouldn't see the 13.8-14.1v range when running. Fuses are not intermittent, they specifically designed to not be intermittent. Fuse connection can fail, but the LCD doesn't have it's own independent fuse, if that was the problem the entire instrument cluster would go down, not just the LCD. Failing LED's are very unpredictable and intermittent as they die. This is a failing LCD assembly. It's common.
I’m having the flicker issue on my 14 1500 sport.....7 year old original battery....just wondering if the flicker ever came back since you posted this video?
My 15 ram starts up fine never been dead. But i have same issue, planning on getting a battery tomorrow since it tested bad, the flickering is annoying
@@mikeh9937 did you ever follow up on this? Does it really need a 4 hour update? Seems like a ridiculous way to fix the problem but I’m at a loss and tired of not being able to see the display.
hmmm, not sure, but maybe a fuse or try unhooking the battery letting it sit for a few mins and reconnect. Possibly a short from boosting if not the fuse. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Installed new interest battery, same problem. I think the gentleman below is correct about the fuses being lose. Seemed to have cured mine.
Awsome, thanks for sharing, and thanks for watching!
Not necessarily the battery. Check the fuses under the hood. Be sure all of them completely pushed in. Simple and less expensive. The 2013 and up. The fuses are know for wanting to pop out. Just check each one, by pushing them down til you hear a click. Most the time that will fix the flickering instrument panel.
I have a 2013 dodge pickup crew cab and I did push in all the fuses down and it still flickers .. I want to autozone and they checked my battery and alternator, it’s all good .. what else can I check .. tia. Mike R
Tipm or cluster itself, are both the cluster and radio flickering at the same time or just the cluster?
@@miguelramirez2439 same thing with my 13 Laramie ! It flashes on and off when I have it on high brightness only . I pushed all the fuses down and nothing has fixed it . Let me know if you found a solution
Yup. Fuses was the issue for me. It was amazing to see that so many fuses came loose
What fuse?
My cluster completely cuts out? Have you ever seen this issue? If so what was the fix? Somedays its really bad and some days its fine.
I had a problem, I found it on the TPMS connection, the wire became corroded and the voltage disappeared, I fixed it and now everything works this is 100% problem
Did your battery show that it was bad in the gauge's? Did yours flicker and chime every time?
Hey, no it just flickered along with the radio screen, if i remember correctly.
Replaced fuse number 72 ,84,88, and 104 that will solve the flickering problem
It's failing LED's in the LCD screen. It's not the battery, it's not the fuses and it's not the alternator. If your battery was failing, it wouldn't be able to crank the engine. If your alternator was bad you wouldn't see the 13.8-14.1v range when running. Fuses are not intermittent, they specifically designed to not be intermittent. Fuse connection can fail, but the LCD doesn't have it's own independent fuse, if that was the problem the entire instrument cluster would go down, not just the LCD.
Failing LED's are very unpredictable and intermittent as they die. This is a failing LCD assembly. It's common.
Thank you I hope that works for me too. Same thing is happening.
Awsome, Thanks for watching!
Changed the battery from what to what??
I’m having the flicker issue on my 14 1500 sport.....7 year old original battery....just wondering if the flicker ever came back since you posted this video?
No it did not come back, it was the battery that was causing my issue, hope this helps and thanks for watching
No it never did come back. The battery was my issue. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Your case was the battery. Most of the cases is the cluster. There is a company that fixes.
Do you know what it's called by any chance?
Thank you good information
My 15 ram starts up fine never been dead. But i have same issue, planning on getting a battery tomorrow since it tested bad, the flickering is annoying
Note i did open the fuse box and pressed on all the fuses they all clicked when pressing down, still no fix
Mike h did they new battery solve your issue?
Battery didnt solve the problem, when i have headlights on ot dont flicker, went to dealership and it needs a update that takes 4 hrs.
@@mikeh9937 did you ever follow up on this? Does it really need a 4 hour update? Seems like a ridiculous way to fix the problem but I’m at a loss and tired of not being able to see the display.
For some reason it dont flicker anymore, didnt do anything to fix it
I updated Uconnect and it stopped.
It’s not the battery I already charged it and my alternator
My battery died then got a boost now it’s full black and it won’t turn on
hmmm, not sure, but maybe a fuse or try unhooking the battery letting it sit for a few mins and reconnect. Possibly a short from boosting if not the fuse. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Also, i had a few comments mentioning loose fuses in the fuse box.
Thanks
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