In reality I agree with the comment. I have never had a problem with the Chinese bearing and seals, other than those I damaged during case assembly. I have never had a problem with their bearings. I have prolapsed a few and replaced them with new Farmertec seals with no problems. In fact I think Farmertec sealsbwrk better in Farmertec saws than oem seals, but my database on this s with only Stihl saws and not Husqvarna saws. That is exactly how I install seals, too.
On the seals. I used 1184 on the edges of the seal and assembly lube on the crank and inner surface of the seal. To keep the pto side seal from being inverted, fill the groove with grease and be gentle when first pressing it down.
You can fill the groove with grease if you want to....but the coke can trick really is the only way to guarantee the seal doesn't pucker. No 1184 sealant here. I use 518 because its anaerobic. ...which is best near the bearings.
That is almost identical to the spacer used on the Ms440. It is not a perfect seal, according to my MightyVac on the 440. It will leak slightly but not enough to be worried about.
If it had a exhaust number of 112° I could see it running with that much squish the only down fall is the torque will be a lot lower in rpm around 6500 7000. Only reason I say that is from messing with the husqvarna 570bts 580bts/redmax ebz8500 ebz8550 back pack blowers. 51mm piston 37mm stroke. Max rpm is 7200 idle rpm is 2000 give or take 200rpms. Base gasket delete on these are worth about 1 degree of timing. Although they are built to run wide open for long periods of time unload the whole time pushing air and not pulling a chain.
Circlips. Someone on UTube figured out the dynamic energy imposed on the circlip by the long ears and it was not enough to pull the slack out of your drawers. I think this worry, dreamed up by Walt, is much ado about nothing. I have installed both types and if you make sure the circlips are fully seated I don’t think they will come out. I insert another wrist pin in the piston and lightly tap it with a small brass hammer. That will make sure the circlip is seated. I do it to both sides and then use my Mark 1 eyeball too visually ensure it is seated correctly.
Put the base gasket in...and check squish. The reason to forgo the gasket is for tight squish. If squish is already tight with a gasket...the run with the gasket. Whats squish with the gasket?
@@matthewolson8875 I put an ~20 thousands card stock in since I didn’t have a gasket and it was ~20 thousandths. The card stock isn’t a great replacement. I didn’t bother getting the gasket in the first place since most people have more quiet and not less.
Hey Matt! Thanks for all the help, I was wondering if you need to une the Coke Can trick for the 372. Also, im at this exact steps but it seems like my crank is stiff and harder to turn by hand (no seals installed yet) any idea why..
If the crank is stiff then something is off somewhere. The bearings are off kilter or whatever. Don't need coke can trick for 372 IF you put bushing and seal in at same time. Put the bushing in the seal. Seat the o ring. Then put the bushing seal in at same time
@@matthewolson8875 The way I did it is both bearings on crank, then one side in the casing , other side pressed straight with heat/cold and screws to make sure it’s straight
I'm totally confused with the whole timing thing. What are you timing the cylinder to? There are no cams or valves in a two stroke. Is there another video somewhere that goes more in depth about the why and how?
the timing referred to in 2 strokes most often is port timing. when the intake and exhaust and transfer ports open relative to the crank position within its rotation. so, most everything can be expressed in degrees relative to top dead center. ie, an exhaust timing can be around 105 degrees before tdc.. WHEN the ports open relative to tdc and each other give different results as far as power and efficiency go. if you imagine the two stroke engine AS a valve... that opens and closes at different times, it gets a little easier to understand
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The bushing on the crank is identical to the scheme used by Stihl for the MS 440, without the little O ring.
In reality I agree with the comment. I have never had a problem with the Chinese bearing and seals, other than those I damaged during case assembly. I have never had a problem with their bearings. I have prolapsed a few and replaced them with new Farmertec seals with no problems. In fact I think Farmertec sealsbwrk better in Farmertec saws than oem seals, but my database on this s with only Stihl saws and not Husqvarna saws. That is exactly how I install seals, too.
On the seals. I used 1184 on the edges of the seal and assembly lube on the crank and inner surface of the seal. To keep the pto side seal from being inverted, fill the groove with grease and be gentle when first pressing it down.
You can fill the groove with grease if you want to....but the coke can trick really is the only way to guarantee the seal doesn't pucker. No 1184 sealant here. I use 518 because its anaerobic. ...which is best near the bearings.
That is almost identical to the spacer used on the Ms440. It is not a perfect seal, according to my MightyVac on the 440. It will leak slightly but not enough to be worried about.
That oil pump spacer is very similar to that used on the ms 440 and similar to that used on the ms 360.
The bushing on both saws is a bad idea but yes... very similar to 440
If it had a exhaust number of 112° I could see it running with that much squish the only down fall is the torque will be a lot lower in rpm around 6500 7000. Only reason I say that is from messing with the husqvarna 570bts 580bts/redmax ebz8500 ebz8550 back pack blowers. 51mm piston 37mm stroke. Max rpm is 7200 idle rpm is 2000 give or take 200rpms. Base gasket delete on these are worth about 1 degree of timing. Although they are built to run wide open for long periods of time unload the whole time pushing air and not pulling a chain.
Circlips. Someone on UTube figured out the dynamic energy imposed on the circlip by the long ears and it was not enough to pull the slack out of your drawers. I think this worry, dreamed up by Walt, is much ado about nothing. I have installed both types and if you make sure the circlips are fully seated I don’t think they will come out. I insert another wrist pin in the piston and lightly tap it with a small brass hammer. That will make sure the circlip is seated. I do it to both sides and then use my Mark 1 eyeball too visually ensure it is seated correctly.
Nothing wrong with clipping them due to superstition:)
just made s order at hl supply hope I did it right so you grt crrdit. thanks for the videos
John TenBarge thanks john! appreciate it! more vids to come!
I am putting a big bore on my G660, without a base gasket the piston hits the cylinder. I have never heard of this happening.
Put the base gasket in...and check squish. The reason to forgo the gasket is for tight squish. If squish is already tight with a gasket...the run with the gasket. Whats squish with the gasket?
@@matthewolson8875 I put an ~20 thousands card stock in since I didn’t have a gasket and it was ~20 thousandths. The card stock isn’t a great replacement.
I didn’t bother getting the gasket in the first place since most people have more quiet and not less.
@@White000Crow its odd but it is what it is. Just grab a gasket and check squish again and if its between 15 and 25 you are probably good to go
@@matthewolson8875 that’s the plan.
Hey Matt! Thanks for all the help, I was wondering if you need to une the Coke Can trick for the 372. Also, im at this exact steps but it seems like my crank is stiff and harder to turn by hand (no seals installed yet) any idea why..
If the crank is stiff then something is off somewhere. The bearings are off kilter or whatever.
Don't need coke can trick for 372 IF you put bushing and seal in at same time. Put the bushing in the seal. Seat the o ring. Then put the bushing seal in at same time
@@matthewolson8875 The way I did it is both bearings on crank, then one side in the casing , other side pressed straight with heat/cold and screws to make sure it’s straight
@@Champ54 yeah....that technique puts lateral forces on the bearings. No more of that for me. :)
@@matthewolson8875 They were off just a bit, now it turns freely ! thanks a lot for your time you are awesome
@@Champ54 sometimes just heating up the crankcase again will align them better. I cant stand hot cold method anymore though. Drives me crazy
has farmertec got their numbers closer with squish and port timing?
Hyway has...dunnno about ft
Matt, how did you make your arbor for your degree wheel?
Just pieces from air compressor fittings
I'm totally confused with the whole timing thing. What are you timing the cylinder to? There are no cams or valves in a two stroke. Is there another video somewhere that goes more in depth about the why and how?
the timing referred to in 2 strokes most often is port timing. when the intake and exhaust and transfer ports open relative to the crank position within its rotation. so, most everything can be expressed in degrees relative to top dead center. ie, an exhaust timing can be around 105 degrees before tdc.. WHEN the ports open relative to tdc and each other give different results as far as power and efficiency go. if you imagine the two stroke engine AS a valve... that opens and closes at different times, it gets a little easier to understand
Great video, does farmertec kit i just ordered come with all the bolts in the bags or were do i buy them?
Yes...all the bolts should be there. ...sometimes they are missing a few things but just follow my vids and you'll be fine :)
Matthew Olson thank you very much for you time!
@@jessegroth2867 no prob...study the vids and lemme know if you have questions
Do you need a timing wheel to put together one these kits?
And do you have to check the squish?
Matthew Murphy no and no but I certainly would recommend at least checking squish
Ok thanks
Can i print and cut one of those wheels myself with bolts from the hardware shop?