Bud you make this all look way to easy I really appreciate all the hard work you put in your videos as a big chainsaw nut I always turn to your videos. Thanks for all your time in teaching and showing us the ins and out.
No problem man. Watch my live vids and you'll see i struggle plenty! Each one of these bolt for bolt vids is probably 5 hours of raw footage condensed down to 30 minutes. Ugh....was a pain! But enjoy!
@@matthewolson8875 I can’t say anything bud I’ve had a 394 that I’ve been at for about a year finally getting it all wrapped up and a ms250 I bought for my dad that I’ve chased around and around I’m going to do a video on it soon
That slight hump in th exhaust port is to keep the ring from hanging in the port. Most people that port build it in if it is not there. Harv also puts a groove on both sides of the bottom of the intake port and reshapes the port to direct the incoming air fuel fix, downward
I have my 372 huztl cylinder already ported ... email me if you are interested in it... i just swapped it for a different P&C, but it'd be a good start for you
hello matthew good job there.matt i have a 272xp just built from all sorts of saws.now with the piston bdc meaning piston skirt is just on its way up if i shave off 10mill off the piston skirt and open up the intake just at the bottom just a skim and clean it up would that wake the saw up thank you again budyy good job.
Stihl saws are different from a husky. The base gasket, if you use one, is different. It will only go on one way, front to back and top to bottom, but you can put it on after the piston is on the rod, unlike a Stihl which has to go on first. I marked my gasket with a U and D for up and down and indexing marks for front to rear, so in the heat of the moment I put it on, correctly so the holes will line up. I do not know yet whether I will use the base gasket - that will be determined by the squish. I will use it if I can but if the squish is north of .040 I will not.
I dont think I have a vid of the saw running. It does run, and I have used it. But its not easy for me to do vids of running ... mostly because I don't have a great setup for those type of comparisons. I don't even have land, and no trees to cut. If you want to see saws running check out Walt's channel, AFLEETCOMMAND ... he does much more with vids of running saws. I just build em :)
uh, those are very different saws. i like the 455 rancher because its quite easy to work on. but the 361 and 380 are going to be more powerful saws. the 455 doesn't really do anything particularly well, but it isn't bad either. I like the 660, but walt now likes the 380 for some reason. the 372 kit isn't a bad kit either, for the price of a 455 rancher ...and it'll be much more powerful than the rancher. lots to think about. buy all of them, like I did lol
Well ive ran both husqvarna and sthil saws and me personally they both are really close when it comes to a smooth running and cutting saw! The decision is hard i have a husky 240 right now and it runs pretty good and a ryobi/homelite that runs and cuts decent but it being a bigger homeowner saw basically vs a commercial or pro saw is a bit different
look for japan made harden steel geared 90 deg that's what they use on teeth not brass gears I use a steel gear for porting I cut it down to fit my dremel flex shaft and its not broken so far I did a cr 250 and kx 80 and acouple saws with it im easy on it but they do chatter more then just a dremel its hard to get the 90 not to chatter but just a dremel is easy its all in the hard and yea single cuts chatter more if the cutters are wider you need to get fine cutters that's all I use now they last longer to I have a 3 gal bucket full of cutters so I tried a lot
Just saw where you were trying to polish the transfers and the sandpaper wheels were too large. Try taking a piece of 1/8" brass about 3" long (or shorter) and splitting 1 end about 1/2" use it as a mandrel and wrap 1/2" strips of sandpaper whatever grit you want and use to polish with.
pretty much anything. soap and water, brake cleaner, degreaser... etc. you can do lots of stuff and its kinda hard to hurt the plating. just gotta get the cylinder pretty clean before you put it back on.
Liberal use of intake cleaner/lube like seafoam will help too. Filings wont pile up on the workpiece like with grease. I do alot of Aluminium heads(typically automotive applications). Been porting saws for about 4years aswell
Matthew Olson it all takes time. Theres an entire trade worth of theory and machining techniques to learn and very few places and oportunities to do so. After about 100 saws and a few dozen test cylinders I still only really have two marketable build types for a handful of models. Its not like a 4stroke performance build where I have target #s to hit on the flow bench and formulas to get them long figured out before me.
not boring the head, adjusting the ports for different port timing (different than ignition timing), and better flow ... adjusting the port timing allows (sometimes) the saw to perform more efficiently and powerfully. how to adjust the ports isn't as much as an issue is HOW MUCH to adjust the ports. i'm am no expert ... just showing how I do it. the more you read and watch ...the more you'll understand
Hey Dan....that's a marathon dental lab handpiece. It has an e type motor and will accept right angle handpieces. They burn up quick though. They are not designed to handle porting burrs
also... fyi ... I built a 51.4 ... it wasn't that much more powerful than the 50, if any. I also burned up the piston. new piston is $80!! and there is no aftermarket for 51.4. personally I'm gonna build oem 50's only, or if I'm doing am i'll do either 50 or 52. gotta try out these farmertech 52 and 50's and see what I can get out of them.
Bud you make this all look way to easy I really appreciate all the hard work you put in your videos as a big chainsaw nut I always turn to your videos. Thanks for all your time in teaching and showing us the ins and out.
No problem man. Watch my live vids and you'll see i struggle plenty! Each one of these bolt for bolt vids is probably 5 hours of raw footage condensed down to 30 minutes. Ugh....was a pain! But enjoy!
@@matthewolson8875 I can’t say anything bud I’ve had a 394 that I’ve been at for about a year finally getting it all wrapped up and a ms250 I bought for my dad that I’ve chased around and around I’m going to do a video on it soon
Run those burrs on steel until they get slightly dull. That should help that chatter go away. Thanks for your video.
Ty very much. Soap and water is how we do engine blocks but I didnt know about chainsaws. Thanks for all your help
You and Walt are great dont miss a show
David Shively I've run out of time for making vids but I really hope I can do more soon
That slight hump in th exhaust port is to keep the ring from hanging in the port. Most people that port build it in if it is not there. Harv also puts a groove on both sides of the bottom of the intake port and reshapes the port to direct the incoming air fuel fix, downward
Good info I'm waiting on my 372 kit to show up was going to do a little bit of porting on it myself
I have my 372 huztl cylinder already ported ... email me if you are interested in it... i just swapped it for a different P&C, but it'd be a good start for you
never mind, thats a 440 cylinder that I have lol
That's ok
hello matthew good job there.matt i have a 272xp just built from all sorts of saws.now with the piston bdc meaning piston skirt is just on its way up if i shave off 10mill off the piston skirt and open up the intake just at the bottom just a skim and clean it up would that wake the saw up thank you again budyy good job.
Have fun with your 272
Stihl saws are different from a husky. The base gasket, if you use one, is different. It will only go on one way, front to back and top to bottom, but you can put it on after the piston is on the rod, unlike a Stihl which has to go on first. I marked my gasket with a U and D for up and down and indexing marks for front to rear, so in the heat of the moment I put it on, correctly so the holes will line up. I do not know yet whether I will use the base gasket - that will be determined by the squish. I will use it if I can but if the squish is north of .040 I will not.
Thank u for answering my questions so fast I do really thank u
cylinder looks good
john reilly thanks!
What video is of saw running
I dont think I have a vid of the saw running. It does run, and I have used it. But its not easy for me to do vids of running ... mostly because I don't have a great setup for those type of comparisons. I don't even have land, and no trees to cut. If you want to see saws running check out Walt's channel, AFLEETCOMMAND ... he does much more with vids of running saws. I just build em :)
Yea i watched just about most of his saw builds lol tryna decide on a knew sthil ms361 or 380 clone kit or buy a used husqvarna 455 rancher
uh, those are very different saws. i like the 455 rancher because its quite easy to work on. but the 361 and 380 are going to be more powerful saws. the 455 doesn't really do anything particularly well, but it isn't bad either. I like the 660, but walt now likes the 380 for some reason. the 372 kit isn't a bad kit either, for the price of a 455 rancher ...and it'll be much more powerful than the rancher. lots to think about. buy all of them, like I did lol
Well ive ran both husqvarna and sthil saws and me personally they both are really close when it comes to a smooth running and cutting saw! The decision is hard i have a husky 240 right now and it runs pretty good and a ryobi/homelite that runs and cuts decent but it being a bigger homeowner saw basically vs a commercial or pro saw is a bit different
the 455 rancher is a step up from your 240 for sure. but its just different than the 361/380's all very different saws.
look for japan made harden steel geared 90 deg that's what they use on teeth not brass gears I use a steel gear for porting I cut it down to fit my dremel flex shaft and its not broken so far I did a cr 250 and kx 80 and acouple saws with it im easy on it but they do chatter more then just a dremel its hard to get the 90 not to chatter but just a dremel is easy its all in the hard and yea single cuts chatter more if the cutters are wider you need to get fine cutters that's all I use now they last longer to I have a 3 gal bucket full of cutters so I tried a lot
Just saw where you were trying to polish the transfers and the sandpaper wheels were too large. Try taking a piece of 1/8" brass about 3" long (or shorter) and splitting 1 end about 1/2" use it as a mandrel and wrap 1/2" strips of sandpaper whatever grit you want and use to polish with.
customcutter100 in later videos I show a split mandrel that I made. But....would be nice to have one that is right angle latch :)
you ever try that wax to keep your cutters from getting clogged
john reilly no....I didn't have trouble in this instance. ..but it's an interesting idea
What type soldier do u use to give swish every soldier I have will not swish to hard of soldier
David Shively I have some .060" old lead solder if the squish is large. I use regular Electronics solder if it's smaller than .030"
What do u clean the cylinder with when your done
pretty much anything. soap and water, brake cleaner, degreaser... etc. you can do lots of stuff and its kinda hard to hurt the plating. just gotta get the cylinder pretty clean before you put it back on.
If you reduce your carbide speed even more they wont plug up. You want to find burrs(carbide) with a little less pitch for aluminium
Marty Ross thanks marty. ....my lab drill can go slower but has no power. ....lately I've been using grease to avoid the gumming....
Liberal use of intake cleaner/lube like seafoam will help too. Filings wont pile up on the workpiece like with grease. I do alot of Aluminium heads(typically automotive applications). Been porting saws for about 4years aswell
Marty Ross I like the sea foam idea. Nice. Tx. I don't do lots of port work....just demonstrate this for guys that wanna do it for fun.
Matthew Olson it all takes time. Theres an entire trade worth of theory and machining techniques to learn and very few places and oportunities to do so. After about 100 saws and a few dozen test cylinders I still only really have two marketable build types for a handful of models. Its not like a 4stroke performance build where I have target #s to hit on the flow bench and formulas to get them long figured out before me.
Is it normal to have a squish of 20 on one side and another part 29
No....a few thousands maybe....but not 9 thou
Its on a OEM cylinder
I didn't get the 36 degrees vs. 15-degree thing. Can someone tell me what that means?
? I forget ...older video. Whats the time stamp?
@@matthewolson8875 May 9, 2017
@@alext8828 at what point in the video?
@@matthewolson8875 I have it at 2:49.
@@alext8828 yes and a few seconds later I explain.... im balancing the wheel
I have been looking into doing this but I don’t understand the whole timing deal and why your borin the head out
not boring the head, adjusting the ports for different port timing (different than ignition timing), and better flow ...
adjusting the port timing allows (sometimes) the saw to perform more efficiently and powerfully. how to adjust the ports isn't as much as an issue is HOW MUCH to adjust the ports. i'm am no expert ... just showing how I do it. the more you read and watch ...the more you'll understand
I have another question have u ever done a 359 build to get more power
David Shively no....but I have one on the shelf in pieces
Thanks very much
Thanks
Where did you get that porting tool? I've been trying to find one with a good angle on it
Hey Dan....that's a marathon dental lab handpiece. It has an e type motor and will accept right angle handpieces. They burn up quick though. They are not designed to handle porting burrs
Can you use these stock? Will it run? I would like to build one of these kist because of price and metal casing on a nice chainsaw ^^
Moes these should run stock....but I would recommend doing some port work to them before you run them
send me that big bore I'll try it out
john reilly have no fear...I'm gonna use it :)
I'm going to try to get a 52 millimeter OEM cylinder
john reilly call bob at ashoken turf and timber....he has factory big bore at good price. 51.4mm....fyi
Good to know thanks
also... fyi ... I built a 51.4 ... it wasn't that much more powerful than the 50, if any. I also burned up the piston. new piston is $80!! and there is no aftermarket for 51.4. personally I'm gonna build oem 50's only, or if I'm doing am i'll do either 50 or 52. gotta try out these farmertech 52 and 50's and see what I can get out of them.