Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels. At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more. Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on RUclips) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job. Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀 And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- ruclips.net/p/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy- ☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info ⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐ ☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark ☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE ⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐ ☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com 🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒 - - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - - ☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available) 🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo 🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6 🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U 🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx 🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj 🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH ☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools 🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander 🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper 🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife 🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq 🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement ☑ Miscellaneous Tools 🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder 🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase ☑ Miscellaneous supplies 🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
I’ve been doing drywall for close to 30 years now. I like this sponge tip for knockdown repairs. Good job. The only thing that I’ve found that works better is to use a rubber squeegee rather than a plastic shield. It always comes out great. Thx for the video.
I’ve used a stiff bristle scrub brush dipped it in the mud and used my fingers to flick the bristles and sling the mud off on the wall . It has great accuracy . Thanks for all your hard work man also your great wisdom.
I simulate sprayed knockdown by using a knotch trowel to put a uniform layer on the repaired area; then I roll it with a goop loop roller in two directions (load the roller on a piece of scrap before starting). Then wait for it to set up a little. Then knock it down with a wide plastic knife. Goes much faster than a sponge...
I’ve been taping for 36 years and retired because I lost vision in both eyes. Love your videos! Sorry you had to close shop! Learned something new making a texture sponge. Thank you!
Thanks, glad to help. I’m really loving teaching here on RUclips, plus it’s going to pay way more than i could have ever made in Drywall. So I’m happy to close shop.
Ive got a whole bunch of holes to fix, from anchors. I am in a hurry and not great at mud but getting better as each job goes by. Looking forward to desecrating my sponge today. Tried to fling it. Not great. Just a mess. I also use fast set. The spray cans were a joke for the heavy knockdown. I got a heavy waste. Great idea thanks!
I thank you for your videos! My ceiling patch and texture turned out beautifully thanks to you. Using the sponge is so much easier and the knockdown look turned out way better using it for other small areas I had patched too.
I think what your doing is perfect. My son and daughter-in-law put learning posters on the wall with two sided tape, then gave my grandbaby a box of crayons. So I had to clean the crayon and two sided tape off the walls. Scrubbing it so hard that it took the texture off the wall in a section that is 6ft x 3ft. I looked at texture guns and a small compressor and I was looking at something in the ballpark of about $200.00 from a pawn shop. I decided to use your sponge and spackle method and it worked great. Now I just need to get off y but and paint the wall. Thanks.
I am an auto body repairman and then throwing mud on cars For years. Nice to have some tips On doing dry wall Because I do my own work in a lot of the theories are the same. But some things you don't know unless the professionals tired these things thanks a lot keep up the good work. I hope you are doing well I just started watching your videos
Thanks. I’ve painted about ten cars myself including a very custom 27T streetrod I own. It is very similar to drywall but t must be done much smoother than drywall. Thanks
You have been so helpful! I would have totally messed up my knockdown. Had to strip paint off bathroom wall in a small bathroom. I got down to the cardboard paper. So I primed and I’m so happy I won’t have paint bubbles. Also I lived in Grand Junction for my first 28 years of life… I saw the monument in the video. Thank you Kilted Guy!!!!
I patched cracks in an area of San Antonio Texas for over 10 years that some homes would have 50 to 70 cracks because of ground movement. - Your dead on with your videos- respect to you
Ya we used to roll it with a paint roller , standard stomp five stomps in a circle overlapping and one stomp in the center of circle , in staggered rows pull with big plastic knife every pull the same direction , we did a finished basement ceiling and walls with the layover technic ,looked awesome but quite a challenge. More difficult then a sunburst around ceiling fans. thanks for posting I was looking for a way to blend and the sponge thing is perfect. Think I'll try it out tomorrow ,I'm gonna go make a sponge right now .😁
Thank You for all your knowledge. We covered an unused window opening in an office space. I had used a textured roller from HD. Matched the wall enough that no one noticed the 48" square hole.
I do a fair bit of this knockdown but I always do a whole wall. I don't thin down the mud but am going to try that. I've made and used several things to apply the mud. I've tried putting texture on the stamping tool because that seems to make sense...BUT in reality a flat trowel works fine. What happens is you get the mud on the surface, a big blob and then stamp stamp stamp to spread it out and with each stamp the texture gets finer and finer. Stop at some point when the amount of texture is what you want and matches the rest. I wait a bit and knock it down.. Sometimes I wait a little too long and I have to use a lot of pressure on the trowel but that made it easy to not flatten the texture too much. Once completely forgot to knock down a wall, totally dried. Sanded and looked find so that could be an option.
Perfect! I stopped looking online for how to do this at your video. You have so many videos! I couldn't find the one on the secret to painting it correctly. Where is that video?
In a small area like this and concerned about it drying to fast as the application takes longer than spraying, what would you think about misting the ceiling with a water bottle on the areas that are drying to fast while youre still applying mud to the rest?
If you don’t apply too much, that should help. Another trick is to prime the repair before you texture it as that will slow down how fast it dries out. Or even knock down part of it then continue applying the raw texture.
I didn't have a knockdown knife, but was able to achieve decent results with a large piece of scrap acrylic. I imagine anything with a smooth finish and a similar amount of flex would work.
I thought the presentation was great. There are others out there who have applied the mix by flicking their fingers, but, the spounge seems to be a better way. Thanks
I'm about to try this method, but your warning about painting afterward has me worried I'm going to do it wrong! It looks like the video followup isn't out yet, so can you please give me a quick idea of what not to do? Thank you so much, I really love your videos!
Yes, just let it dry well, then spot prime with a nice solid coat of a bonding primer, (not pva) since you might have to let it stick to smooth paint. Let it dry well, then spot paint, softening the edges by pulling off at the end of the roll, and going over the outside gently. Let dry 4 hours, then repaint the whole surface. You can try spot painting the 2nd coat by extending it slightly, but anything shinier than flat, won't blend well which is why I only guarantee paint if I can repaint the whole wall or ceiling, just to the next corner.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY - I was looking for your follow-up paint video too. Good tip about using bonding primer. I had to google what a bonding primer is. I think Gardz or Roman Rx-35 PRO-999 are bonding primers.
This morning I watched this texture video and I sure am glad I did. I will undoubtedly learn many usefull home improvement tips from you. Thank you sir. (Subscribed) Mark Nicholson Former, US Army - EFMB, Combat Medical Specialist (NBC) Nuclear, Biological and Chemical weapons - Medical Intervention Specialist 1/94 FA MLRS
When I’m doing a job, my customers like the fact that I can do the job in one day, but I can’t do that if I prime and paint it in that same day. Plus I would have to charge them more. So I’ve learned how to blend it the way I do and it saves money and gets the job done faster. But yes that would work if you have the time. There is a drawback to it though. Normally it only takes a few minutes for the mud to set up the way I do it without priming, but if you prime and paint it it can take 20 minutes or more which is a lot of time to wait and you could accidentally wait too long because of that. Hope that helps. Guy
hey this is GREAT! thank you!!! i think i might try your roller idea. my ceiling has a subtle texture, almost like a paint roller anyway. for a small repair (about one square foot) do you have to use mud? or could regular spackle work? the drywall is flat , just the paint peeled off from a pin drip from the roof. it’s dry now and doesn’t seem to need major patching.
Hello, here's how to paint a drywall repair and have it not show. Apply one full coat of primer. I recommend a primer like Bullseye 123 as it has a higher bond compared to PVA primer. That's important since some of the primer will be applied to the painted area around the repair and PVA won't stick to that as well since it's made for raw drywall. Apply one full coat of paint, extending slightly beyond the repair. Apply it nice and evenly, going over it one final time very lightly, which will level any lines and heavy spots. Pull the roller off as you roll out to the edges to feather the paint edge. Do this one more time, extending the paint slightly. Tips- If painting over flat paint, you can spot paint as above. But if there's any gloss at all, it will show the edges where you stop so the only way to avoid that is for the 2nd coat to paint the entire surface, or up to the next break such as a beam, trim, etc. Allow each coat to dry the recommended time (read the recoat times on the paint can). Make sure the repair is fully dry. I recommend 24-48 hours, but if you watch, the mud will dry whiter than it was when wet. When 100% of the mud is solid white, it should be fully dry. But it's best to wait another hour or so after that. Don't rush it. If applying a matching texture of knockdown, I like to very lightly sand or scrape around the outer edges of the repair. If you sprayed it, the outer edges will be fine mist, and you want to remove that. But you also want to make your texture outer edges blend into the existing texture by sanding the new texture outer edges so they become one with the old texture. Don't skimp on paint or primer. Use a 3/8" nap for light texture, but can go up to 1/2" for heavier texture. Use quality materials including a roller that you didn't buy at the dollar store, and paint that's at least mid grade. If matching paint, take it to a real paint store like Sherwin Williams, NOT a big box store or True Value etc. They are experts at tweaking it if the computer is off a little. Big box stores seldom are. I most often use Sherwin Williams Super paint and get great results. If you find our information has helped you with your projects, you can tip us if you would like at: paypal.me/ThatKiltedGuyVideos?locale.x=en_US Or on Patreon at: www.patreon.com/ThatKiltedGuy Or Via venmo at Guy Purcella@Guy-Purcella Thank you either way.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY sorry once you’re done spraying/sponging, before knocking it down. It was to your point about longer work times and material setting up before you’re done applying all of it
@@rickybaker42 the best way to get a longer set up time before you have to knock it down is to prime it first. I still don’t think the Misty idea is a good idea. On larger jobs you really need help or you’ve got to work extra hard and it’s really hard to get it to blend right
Thanks for the video! Have you ever done this on an external wall? I'm after a subtle "stone look" on a cement column, 6" x 6" × 18" tall. I like the idea of applying a lesser amount using the sponge and l wondered if knocking it down would create small flatter areas to mimic eroded granite. Thanks again for the videos, you're inspiring!
Thanks gonna give it a try.. Do you think i could try this texture method on a plywood ceiling? Yes plywood! There’s no $ to add drywall so I was going to attempt to prime it (it’s currently painted chocolate brown) then tape the seams like you would drywall then skim with the joint compound and end with a knockdown texture. What are your thoughts. Im thinking it can’t look much worse. But I don’t want to spend a ton of my time on it if it’s not going to adhere.
When making the "pancake batter" is hot, warm, or cold water used? P.S. Thank you so very much for your excellent detailed instructional videos. You have helped me with issues I didn't even know I had till I watched one of your videos.
Cold. Glad I could help. You may want to consider joining our RUclips membership group by clicking the join button next to the subscribe button. Thank you
Hey kilted Guy, I was wondering by any chance is there an way I can send you an picture of what it looks like water damage in my parents home? As it’s pretty bad and I feel it would be an hard process for my parents to understand and try to fix it correctly. It just happened today! Thank You!
Hello, while we are glad to help with simple, quick questions on youtube, we are not able to help with longer, more complicated questions due to the volume of questions we receive. We currently get nearly 1/4 million views and we are unable to answer the volume of complex questions for free. We do offer a paid consulting service if you need more assistance, or you can get that service by joining at the upper levels on our membership channel, (use the join button, beside the subscribe button). Both links are below if you need further assistance. Our Consulting services and fees can be found at: www.thatkiltedguy.com/advice-page Our RUclips members only page can be found at: ruclips.net/channel/UCSinsqowcKxmSaKkx3W9_0wjoin Thanks for being part of our channel.
Very, very good videos, you are great at what you do !!!! I have watched all and learnt a lot, Thanks. Question...where is the link for the tools on Amazon I dont see it, I m looking for the Screw "driver" or bit (what is it called) to drive the drywall screws in, would like to get some of those. Thanks
Links are in the description below the video. But here they are: ONLINE STORE & AMAZON LINKS Here's some links to tools I mentioned in the video. (we do earn a small commission on sales, but it costs you nothing more, so thank you for your support) Texture sprayer hopper - amzn.to/2L1jWjb Knockdown Texture Knife- amzn.to/2GwiW6u Knockdown Texture Sponge, (works great)- amzn.to/39vSx4Q Magic Trowel -amzn.to/2HdaN76 Mesh Tape dispenser- amzn.to/2UpnSyn Guardz torn paper sealer - amzn.to/2L3tl9V For a full mud pan and knife set- amzn.to/2KZG8u9 Dewalt 1/2" drill- amzn.to/2M29pWu More affordable drill - amzn.to/2Eqa6EZ Drywall Mud mixers- amzn.to/35tO6VJ Dewalt Cordless Screw Gun- amzn.to/39DFFtw Wet Sanding Sponge- amzn.to/2QBLCyo Dry Sanding Sponge- amzn.to/2SDgv8e Skim Coating Blades- amzn.to/2MHcX0Q
I can’t think of any reason your location would change the type of mud you would use. So you should be using regular weight all purpose for taping, and a lightweight mud for top coating or texture and you’ll be fine. Thanks, Guy
Depends on too many things. Look for the shine to start going away and test it. For a novice, do a sample on a piece of scrap at the same time and when it knocks down right, the main area is ready.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY thanks for reply. A quick follow up question: unless I am missing something, hot mud would be more forgiving at the painted edges since it would set up at the same time as the middle. Correct?
I just thought of something, I have always think like macgyver does. I would get some thick sponge like yours maybe from old mattress or couch pillow and glue it to piece of wood and put broom handle to it or just a handle and that would do the job easy. I am doing the wall and wanted some tips and saw this one. Thanks for your knowledge and share it. 👍👍👍👍👍
Yeah, I've had that happen. Maybe do that texture right before feeding everyone, and put a fan on it for 30 minutes. Should be firm enough by then. Good luck, 🐈😉
I have had issues trying to knock down using joint compound. It has a lot more glue in it so it doesn't knock down nicely. Id suggest using topping, I have had much better luck texturing with it.
Your video rocks, but I couldn’t find the video regarding the proper way to paint over California knock down. You mentioned this in your video, we just don’t want to make the same mistake.
I have so many videos in the works and so little time, and actually very little energy due to the virus that hospitalized me in March, so I'll get that out one day, but here's the short and narrow version. Once the drywall is thoroughly dry, prime it and let it dry well. If going onto paint, use a bonding primer like Bullseye 123, then 1 coat of paint, and let dry well, (read the label for recoat times), then a 2nd coat of paint. Extend each coat slightly beyond the last, and don't skimp on materials. Soften the blend edges by pulling away as you roll out. Note that the only thing that will spot paint and blend well is flat paint. The glossier the less it will blend, so then you have to repaint the entire surface to get a blend (2nd coat only). Hope that helps. If you find our information has helped you with your projects, you can tip us if you would like at: paypal.me/ThatKiltedGuyVideos?locale.x=en_US Or on Patreon at: www.patreon.com/ThatKiltedGuy Or Via venmo at Guy Purcella@Guy-Purcella Thank you either way.
Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels.
At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more.
Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on RUclips) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job.
Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀
And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall
Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg
Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com
Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- ruclips.net/p/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy-
☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info
⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐
☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark
☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE
⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐
☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com
🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒
- - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - -
☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available)
🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo
🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6
🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U
🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx
🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj
🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH
☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools
🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander
🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper
🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife
🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq
🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement
☑ Miscellaneous Tools
🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder
🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase
☑ Miscellaneous supplies
🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz
DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
I’ve been doing drywall for close to 30 years now. I like this sponge tip for knockdown repairs. Good job. The only thing that I’ve found that works better is to use a rubber squeegee rather than a plastic shield. It always comes out great. Thx for the video.
Thank you for not adding music to this video . Great video
I’ve used a stiff bristle scrub brush dipped it in the mud and used my fingers to flick the bristles and sling the mud off on the wall . It has great accuracy . Thanks for all your hard work man also your great wisdom.
I simulate sprayed knockdown by using a knotch trowel to put a uniform layer on the repaired area; then I roll it with a goop loop roller in two directions (load the roller on a piece of scrap before starting). Then wait for it to set up a little. Then knock it down with a wide plastic knife. Goes much faster than a sponge...
I’ve been taping for 36 years and retired because I lost vision in both eyes. Love your videos! Sorry you had to close shop! Learned something new making a texture sponge. Thank you!
Thanks, glad to help. I’m really loving teaching here on RUclips, plus it’s going to pay way more than i could have ever made in Drywall. So I’m happy to close shop.
I've watched so many videos on this. Yours is by far the best.
Saree Sanchez Thank you. I’m happy to hear that. 😎
This guy is legit. Saved me $50 bucks on crappy spray texture.
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Ive got a whole bunch of holes to fix, from anchors. I am in a hurry and not great at mud but getting better as each job goes by. Looking forward to desecrating my sponge today. Tried to fling it. Not great. Just a mess. I also use fast set. The spray cans were a joke for the heavy knockdown. I got a heavy waste. Great idea thanks!
We use that same sponge technique but usually on small areas I agree with you it's very tough on the big areas.
I thank you for your videos! My ceiling patch and texture turned out beautifully thanks to you. Using the sponge is so much easier and the knockdown look turned out way better using it for other small areas I had patched too.
Wonderful! Glad I could help.
Thanks for the reminder lesson. Gotta fix some walls. I did a great job with your instruction last time, I just forgot the technique.
Thanks so much for sharing your videos.
Christos from Greece.
Just made one for a bathroom ceiling, worked great! Thanks..... Your other mud/drywall videos are very helpful.
Really appreciate you sharing your low cost tips and tricks. Thumbs up.
Thank you! Glad to help.
very comprehensive - great video sage!
I think what your doing is perfect. My son and daughter-in-law put learning posters on the wall with two sided tape, then gave my grandbaby a box of crayons. So I had to clean the crayon and two sided tape off the walls. Scrubbing it so hard that it took the texture off the wall in a section that is 6ft x 3ft. I looked at texture guns and a small compressor and I was looking at something in the ballpark of about $200.00 from a pawn shop. I decided to use your sponge and spackle method and it worked great. Now I just need to get off y but and paint the wall. Thanks.
I am an auto body repairman and then throwing mud on cars For years. Nice to have some tips On doing dry wall Because I do my own work in a lot of the theories are the same. But some things you don't know unless the professionals tired these things thanks a lot keep up the good work. I hope you are doing well I just started watching your videos
Thanks. I’ve painted about ten cars myself including a very custom 27T streetrod I own. It is very similar to drywall but t must be done much smoother than drywall. Thanks
Thank you for the 3 part video. I’m looking forward to repairing my ceiling.
You have been so helpful! I would have totally messed up my knockdown. Had to strip paint off bathroom wall in a small bathroom. I got down to the cardboard paper. So I primed and I’m so happy I won’t have paint bubbles. Also I lived in Grand Junction for my first 28 years of life… I saw the monument in the video. Thank you Kilted Guy!!!!
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
I patched cracks in an area of San Antonio Texas for over 10 years that some homes would have 50 to 70 cracks because of ground movement. - Your dead on with your videos- respect to you
Thanks 😊
Thank you for your COMPLETE instructional videos on repairs. Job WELL DONE.
A little hand pump mason gun with the big tip works good as well with the big quart jar. Also works well for popcorn but the masking is necessary.
Ya we used to roll it with a paint roller , standard stomp five stomps in a circle overlapping and one stomp in the center of circle , in staggered rows pull with big plastic knife every pull the same direction , we did a finished basement ceiling and walls with the layover technic ,looked awesome but quite a challenge. More difficult then a sunburst around ceiling fans. thanks for posting I was looking for a way to blend and the sponge thing is perfect. Think I'll try it out tomorrow ,I'm gonna go make a sponge right now .😁
Your videos are truly the best
May you be blessed in all you do
Really enjoy learning for your videos. I followed and I'm pleased with how it's come out, so thanks a lot.
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Thank you for sharing your precious experiences with us.
It's my pleasure 😎👣
Thank You for all your knowledge. We covered an unused window opening in an office space. I had used a textured roller from HD. Matched the wall enough that no one noticed the 48" square hole.
Thoroughly explained many thanks!
You're very welcome!
Guy RULES!!! Thanks for all your great videos!
Thanks, I appreciate that 😎, & Thanks for subscribing!
I used to do this all the time. Good tips.
Great video. Best one I’ve watched so far. And I’m about to do both new texture on a ceiling and blend in new to old knockdown on the walls.
That looks really good. I'm going to use this technique myself.
I have some small spots to fill and texture where there used to be towel rods. This info will come in real handy.
Nice 1955 chevy truck i belive that is with the small side light windows on the corners.
They made this body style in 1954 and half of 55, and mine is a 54
Thanks for that valuable info. I have 2 ceiling spots that should be done, this motivates me.
I do a fair bit of this knockdown but I always do a whole wall. I don't thin down the mud but am going to try that. I've made and used several things to apply the mud. I've tried putting texture on the stamping tool because that seems to make sense...BUT in reality a flat trowel works fine. What happens is you get the mud on the surface, a big blob and then stamp stamp stamp to spread it out and with each stamp the texture gets finer and finer. Stop at some point when the amount of texture is what you want and matches the rest. I wait a bit and knock it down.. Sometimes I wait a little too long and I have to use a lot of pressure on the trowel but that made it easy to not flatten the texture too much. Once completely forgot to knock down a wall, totally dried. Sanded and looked find so that could be an option.
Ohhh. I like the flat trowel idea! You get the vacuum suction with big peaks at first. Great Idea.
I use the Sureline texture roller, wait 10 minutes and knock it down. My mix is a little dryer though.
Excellent video!!!!
Guy. Where is the video on how to paint this patch? Please provide the link.
Here’s the link- ruclips.net/video/3_QSmuf0bVI/видео.html
My Hero!
Perfect! I stopped looking online for how to do this at your video. You have so many videos! I couldn't find the one on the secret to painting it correctly. Where is that video?
Here it is- ruclips.net/video/3_QSmuf0bVI/видео.html
The texture ceiling repair video was very help. Thank you.
Thanks for commenting.
Great tutorial video. Thank you can’t wait to try it.
In a small area like this and concerned about it drying to fast as the application takes longer than spraying, what would you think about misting the ceiling with a water bottle on the areas that are drying to fast while youre still applying mud to the rest?
If you don’t apply too much, that should help. Another trick is to prime the repair before you texture it as that will slow down how fast it dries out. Or even knock down part of it then continue applying the raw texture.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thanks!
I didn't have a knockdown knife, but was able to achieve decent results with a large piece of scrap acrylic. I imagine anything with a smooth finish and a similar amount of flex would work.
They do but not as good from my experience
I thought the presentation was great. There are others out there who have applied the mix by flicking their fingers, but, the spounge seems to be a better way. Thanks
great info doing it tomarrow
great video I was looking for this kind of video , and I think I just found it ,thank you so mush
Great video sir thanks
Glad you liked it
How much would that repair cost . I have the same problem.
Great video had some questions, How long to you wait to knock it down and could not find the video on how to paint after. Thanks
The painting video hasn’t come out yet but will soon. Wait till the shiny look gets a little duller. From 3-6 minutes usually.
Textured for quite some time wait till shine disappears it dissipates look down the wall can you turn knock it you want just a little shine left in it
Outstanding video.
Thank you very much!
I'm about to try this method, but your warning about painting afterward has me worried I'm going to do it wrong! It looks like the video followup isn't out yet, so can you please give me a quick idea of what not to do? Thank you so much, I really love your videos!
Yes, just let it dry well, then spot prime with a nice solid coat of a bonding primer, (not pva) since you might have to let it stick to smooth paint. Let it dry well, then spot paint, softening the edges by pulling off at the end of the roll, and going over the outside gently. Let dry 4 hours, then repaint the whole surface. You can try spot painting the 2nd coat by extending it slightly, but anything shinier than flat, won't blend well which is why I only guarantee paint if I can repaint the whole wall or ceiling, just to the next corner.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thank you so much for the prompt response!
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY - I was looking for your follow-up paint video too. Good tip about using bonding primer. I had to google what a bonding primer is. I think Gardz or Roman
Rx-35 PRO-999 are bonding primers.
This morning I watched this texture video and I sure am glad I did. I will undoubtedly learn many usefull home improvement tips from you. Thank you sir. (Subscribed)
Mark Nicholson
Former, US Army - EFMB,
Combat Medical Specialist
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Thanks for your service!
U really know what your doing I can give u that and please keep making videos I just subscribed :) thanks
Why not prime/paint it before adding the texture so it can be overlapped without having to keep it within the patched new mud?
When I’m doing a job, my customers like the fact that I can do the job in one day, but I can’t do that if I prime and paint it in that same day. Plus I would have to charge them more. So I’ve learned how to blend it the way I do and it saves money and gets the job done faster.
But yes that would work if you have the time. There is a drawback to it though. Normally it only takes a few minutes for the mud to set up the way I do it without priming, but if you prime and paint it it can take 20 minutes or more which is a lot of time to wait and you could accidentally wait too long because of that.
Hope that helps. Guy
Another great video! Thank you for posting this! The sponge is a great idea!
Hey, you bet.
hey this is GREAT! thank you!!!
i think i might try your roller idea. my ceiling has a subtle texture, almost like a paint roller anyway.
for a small repair (about one square foot) do you have to use mud? or could regular spackle work?
the drywall is flat , just the paint peeled off from a pin drip from the roof. it’s dry now and doesn’t seem to need major patching.
good video thank you
Thank you too
Hello That Kilted Guy. What's the Painting tip for Knockdown texture repair? Thank you.
Hello, here's how to paint a drywall repair and have it not show.
Apply one full coat of primer. I recommend a primer like Bullseye 123 as it has a higher bond compared to PVA primer. That's important since some of the primer will be applied to the painted area around the repair and PVA won't stick to that as well since it's made for raw drywall.
Apply one full coat of paint, extending slightly beyond the repair. Apply it nice and evenly, going over it one final time very lightly, which will level any lines and heavy spots. Pull the roller off as you roll out to the edges to feather the paint edge.
Do this one more time, extending the paint slightly.
Tips- If painting over flat paint, you can spot paint as above. But if there's any gloss at all, it will show the edges where you stop so the only way to avoid that is for the 2nd coat to paint the entire surface, or up to the next break such as a beam, trim, etc.
Allow each coat to dry the recommended time (read the recoat times on the paint can).
Make sure the repair is fully dry. I recommend 24-48 hours, but if you watch, the mud will dry whiter than it was when wet. When 100% of the mud is solid white, it should be fully dry. But it's best to wait another hour or so after that. Don't rush it.
If applying a matching texture of knockdown, I like to very lightly sand or scrape around the outer edges of the repair. If you sprayed it, the outer edges will be fine mist, and you want to remove that. But you also want to make your texture outer edges blend into the existing texture by sanding the new texture outer edges so they become one with the old texture.
Don't skimp on paint or primer.
Use a 3/8" nap for light texture, but can go up to 1/2" for heavier texture.
Use quality materials including a roller that you didn't buy at the dollar store, and paint that's at least mid grade.
If matching paint, take it to a real paint store like Sherwin Williams, NOT a big box store or True Value etc. They are experts at tweaking it if the computer is off a little. Big box stores seldom are. I most often use Sherwin Williams Super paint and get great results.
If you find our information has helped you with your projects, you can tip us if you would like at:
paypal.me/ThatKiltedGuyVideos?locale.x=en_US
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Thank you either way.
How do you avoid flashing when you done painting the repaired area??
Like this- ruclips.net/video/3_QSmuf0bVI/видео.html
Was the sponge moistened prior to the mud being applied to it? Or dry?
I used it dry. Moistening it might cause the texture mud thickness to vary too much and wouldn't accomplish anything. Thanks for asking. 😎👣
this was a helpful question
Excellent information again, thank you.
great video!
Can you just go over everything with a fine water spray once you’re done texturing to get a uniform dry time?
I don’t see the point and think it might mess up the texture or weaken it
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY sorry once you’re done spraying/sponging, before knocking it down. It was to your point about longer work times and material setting up before you’re done applying all of it
@@rickybaker42 the best way to get a longer set up time before you have to knock it down is to prime it first. I still don’t think the Misty idea is a good idea. On larger jobs you really need help or you’ve got to work extra hard and it’s really hard to get it to blend right
Thank you for sharing the tip 💡👍
Any time!
so these texture repair sponges that you buy for 20 bucks is the same exact material as the 2 dollar sponge you're using in this video?
Yes
Thanks for the video!
Have you ever done this on an external wall?
I'm after a subtle "stone look" on a cement column, 6" x 6" × 18" tall.
I like the idea of applying a lesser amount using the sponge and l wondered if knocking it down would create small flatter areas to mimic eroded granite.
Thanks again for the videos, you're inspiring!
I don't mess with external walls like that, so no.
Thanks gonna give it a try.. Do you think i could try this texture method on a plywood ceiling? Yes plywood! There’s no $ to add drywall so I was going to attempt to prime it (it’s currently painted chocolate brown) then tape the seams like you would drywall then skim with the joint compound and end with a knockdown texture. What are your thoughts. Im thinking it can’t look much worse. But I don’t want to spend a ton of my time on it if it’s not going to adhere.
It should stick after priming with a good bonding primer
Good tips, thank you
You bet!
When making the "pancake batter" is hot, warm, or cold water used? P.S. Thank you so very much for your excellent detailed instructional videos. You have helped me with issues I didn't even know I had till I watched one of your videos.
Cold. Glad I could help.
You may want to consider joining our RUclips membership group by clicking the join button next to the subscribe button. Thank you
Hey kilted Guy, I was wondering by any chance is there an way I can send you an picture of what it looks like water damage in my parents home? As it’s pretty bad and I feel it would be an hard process for my parents to understand and try to fix it correctly. It just happened today! Thank You!
Hello, while we are glad to help with simple, quick questions on youtube, we are not able to help with longer, more complicated questions due to the volume of questions we receive. We currently get nearly 1/4 million views and we are unable to answer the volume of complex questions for free. We do offer a paid consulting service if you need more assistance, or you can get that service by joining at the upper levels on our membership channel, (use the join button, beside the subscribe button). Both links are below if you need further assistance.
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Very, very good videos, you are great at what you do !!!! I have watched all and learnt a lot, Thanks. Question...where is the link for the tools on Amazon I dont see it, I m looking for the Screw "driver" or bit (what is it called) to drive the drywall screws in, would like to get some of those. Thanks
Links are in the description below the video. But here they are:
ONLINE STORE & AMAZON LINKS
Here's some links to tools I mentioned in the video. (we do earn a small commission on sales, but it costs you nothing more, so thank you for your support)
Texture sprayer hopper - amzn.to/2L1jWjb
Knockdown Texture Knife- amzn.to/2GwiW6u
Knockdown Texture Sponge, (works great)- amzn.to/39vSx4Q
Magic Trowel -amzn.to/2HdaN76
Mesh Tape dispenser- amzn.to/2UpnSyn
Guardz torn paper sealer - amzn.to/2L3tl9V
For a full mud pan and knife set- amzn.to/2KZG8u9
Dewalt 1/2" drill- amzn.to/2M29pWu
More affordable drill - amzn.to/2Eqa6EZ
Drywall Mud mixers- amzn.to/35tO6VJ
Dewalt Cordless Screw Gun- amzn.to/39DFFtw
Wet Sanding Sponge- amzn.to/2QBLCyo
Dry Sanding Sponge- amzn.to/2SDgv8e
Skim Coating Blades- amzn.to/2MHcX0Q
So you dont have to replace the whole piece of drywall or is that only for extensive damage?
You only have to replace the damaged section
how much you charge about for 300 square feet just for the texture?
I've done somthing like that but used my paint color as the water with a dry mix.
Awesome
This guy is great!
Tanya, thank you. Glad I could help.
What type of finish mud would you recommend for a garage ceiling in south Florida?
I can’t think of any reason your location would change the type of mud you would use. So you should be using regular weight all purpose for taping, and a lightweight mud for top coating or texture and you’ll be fine. Thanks, Guy
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY thanks. I appreciate your videos. Much respect 👍🏼
Can someone give me the link to the painting video the host is talking about at the end of this one ?
Here you go ruclips.net/video/3_QSmuf0bVI/видео.htmlsi=dXnyjWGmYgPYbyCY
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thank you for your response KiltedGuy. I'll check out more of your stuff as you're an excellant communicator. 👍
I am using all purpose mud. how long do you have to wait till you start the knockdown?
Depends on too many things. Look for the shine to start going away and test it. For a novice, do a sample on a piece of scrap at the same time and when it knocks down right, the main area is ready.
Why don't you recommend using hot mud for this technique with knockdown?
Because hot mud is a pain unless you need it. It really doesn’t dry any faster so I don’t see the point
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY thanks for reply. A quick follow up question: unless I am missing something, hot mud would be more forgiving at the painted edges since it would set up at the same time as the middle. Correct?
Sets up slower over paint
You could use the trowel and do same things
Can you do this in a bathroom, if you prime and paint after it is dry?
Yes
Can you do this in paneling?
Yea if it’s solid and you clean it first
hey man I want to work with you are you hiring right now?
I'm not, sorry. Next time I hire it will be for video help in maybe 6 months.
Does this work on walls?
The same
I can skip trowel that right in with no sponge.
How do you spray on a celling?
How’d you modify your sponge 🧽
Like this- KnockDown Texture Repair Sponge that cost $2.00. NO WAY? Yes Way, and it works well.
I just thought of something, I have always think like macgyver does. I would get some thick sponge like yours maybe from old mattress or couch pillow and glue it to piece of wood and put broom handle to it or just a handle and that would do the job easy. I am doing the wall and wanted some tips and saw this one. Thanks for your knowledge and share it. 👍👍👍👍👍
So how do i do a very large texture versus the normal
Like this- ruclips.net/video/eKkDBGHCbJo/видео.html
Could you use the magic squeegee to do the knockdown?
I don’t think I’ve tried it but probably.
Where's the painting video?
ruclips.net/video/3_QSmuf0bVI/видео.html
I use a rough deck roller, kind of like a plastic mesh roller. looks like a plastic sponge on a roller.
How to go around bull nose corners kids and dogs ruin everything
Yeah, I've had that happen. Maybe do that texture right before feeding everyone, and put a fan on it for 30 minutes. Should be firm enough by then. Good luck, 🐈😉
👍👍👍👍👍
Lol, I was thinking pancake batter.
I have had issues trying to knock down using joint compound. It has a lot more glue in it so it doesn't knock down nicely. Id suggest using topping, I have had much better luck texturing with it.
Your video rocks, but I couldn’t find the video regarding the proper way to paint over California knock down. You mentioned this in your video, we just don’t want to make the same mistake.
I have so many videos in the works and so little time, and actually very little energy due to the virus that hospitalized me in March, so I'll get that out one day, but here's the short and narrow version. Once the drywall is thoroughly dry, prime it and let it dry well. If going onto paint, use a bonding primer like Bullseye 123, then 1 coat of paint, and let dry well, (read the label for recoat times), then a 2nd coat of paint. Extend each coat slightly beyond the last, and don't skimp on materials. Soften the blend edges by pulling away as you roll out. Note that the only thing that will spot paint and blend well is flat paint. The glossier the less it will blend, so then you have to repaint the entire surface to get a blend (2nd coat only).
Hope that helps.
If you find our information has helped you with your projects, you can tip us if you would like at:
paypal.me/ThatKiltedGuyVideos?locale.x=en_US
Or on Patreon at: www.patreon.com/ThatKiltedGuy
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Thank you either way.
Thank you for reply, the information was very helpful. Sorry to hear that you were sick, my whole family enjoys your videos. Please take of your self.
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