Sir:. You truly show your professionalism during this video. Absolutely no complaints as you are thorough, concise & certainly show your knowledge in Forestry. Well done!
This is still the best "real world" video (parts 1 and 2) for pruning black walnut of anything I've seen on RUclips and is directly applicable to pruning oaks, black cherries, and all other hardwoods I've pruned too. This video hits the nail on the head when it says that pruning is an art. And, it's an art that takes lots of practice. I've been pruning walnuts, oaks and black cherries for nearly 30 years and I still learn something when I look at my previous prunings. If you're new to pruning, watch this video and then go try. Just start. If in doubt, prune a bit conservatively and then come back next year, assess your actions, adapt, and continue pruning. I have three things to add to this great video. 1. When you become good at pruning (several years of practice!) you can move to a chainsaw powered pruning saw and you might even do a better job. You can prune more trees per day and can often leave a smaller scar on the tree, especially when pruning limbs that are tightly angled upward and hard to get a handsaw into. Also, handsaws are difficult to sharpen, tire you out faster, and they don't last as long as you think. A chainsaw pole pruner is cheaper to maintain if you prune a lot. 2. The video says not to prune a limb that's bigger than 2" in diameter. That's a good rule for beginners but it doesn't account that you can prune larger limbs if your trees are growing aggressively. I use the general rule that I take tree growth per decade and multiply by 0.6 for maximum limb diameter. My trees are commonly growing at about 5"-6" decade. So I can prune 2.5" to 3" diameter limbs without danger. If a side limb is bigger than desired but if you leave it the tree won't make at least a 8' 6" log, cut it! You have no risk, as the tree is worthless without pruning anyway. 3. If your plantation is growing well, don't take more than 30% of the limbs (summer leaf area) off during initial pruning. Then next year, take no more than 15% to 20% max. If you prune every other year or even longer, follow the 30% removal guideline. For annual pruning follow the 15%-20% maximum removal rule of thumb. If you have a big limb you have to take off for a major correction and it exceeds these rules, do it. It will just slow the tree's long term growth until it recovers. Trees, like children, really benefit from lots of attention early in life. Again, great video!
(27:50-28:30) If the mechanical damage was from deer (and not just bad genetics), you can give the new stems a much better chance of yielding a high quality tree if you strategically leave the tree you just cut off on the ground surrounding the stump. Those branches can physically protect the the newly developing stems from the same type of deer damage that might be responsible for its current poor form. Similarly, use other branches and brushy material to protect both the expected new stems on this tree and the stems of other nice but vulnerable young trees in the stand.
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Sir:. You truly show your professionalism during this video. Absolutely no complaints as you are thorough, concise & certainly show your knowledge in Forestry. Well done!
I would like to see how those trees look like today. Nice video with easy to understand instructions
This is still the best "real world" video (parts 1 and 2) for pruning black walnut of anything I've seen on RUclips and is directly applicable to pruning oaks, black cherries, and all other hardwoods I've pruned too. This video hits the nail on the head when it says that pruning is an art. And, it's an art that takes lots of practice. I've been pruning walnuts, oaks and black cherries for nearly 30 years and I still learn something when I look at my previous prunings. If you're new to pruning, watch this video and then go try. Just start. If in doubt, prune a bit conservatively and then come back next year, assess your actions, adapt, and continue pruning. I have three things to add to this great video. 1. When you become good at pruning (several years of practice!) you can move to a chainsaw powered pruning saw and you might even do a better job. You can prune more trees per day and can often leave a smaller scar on the tree, especially when pruning limbs that are tightly angled upward and hard to get a handsaw into. Also, handsaws are difficult to sharpen, tire you out faster, and they don't last as long as you think. A chainsaw pole pruner is cheaper to maintain if you prune a lot. 2. The video says not to prune a limb that's bigger than 2" in diameter. That's a good rule for beginners but it doesn't account that you can prune larger limbs if your trees are growing aggressively. I use the general rule that I take tree growth per decade and multiply by 0.6 for maximum limb diameter. My trees are commonly growing at about 5"-6" decade. So I can prune 2.5" to 3" diameter limbs without danger. If a side limb is bigger than desired but if you leave it the tree won't make at least a 8' 6" log, cut it! You have no risk, as the tree is worthless without pruning anyway. 3. If your plantation is growing well, don't take more than 30% of the limbs (summer leaf area) off during initial pruning. Then next year, take no more than 15% to 20% max. If you prune every other year or even longer, follow the 30% removal guideline. For annual pruning follow the 15%-20% maximum removal rule of thumb. If you have a big limb you have to take off for a major correction and it exceeds these rules, do it. It will just slow the tree's long term growth until it recovers. Trees, like children, really benefit from lots of attention early in life. Again, great video!
Best video series out there. Thankyou!!
This is the best pruning video for hardwood trees out there hands down. Thanks for posting has helped me so much!!
Great video. Excellent presentation. Makes me almost want to move to Nebraska and sign up to be a park ranger. Thanks
oldie but goodie lol. thanks for sharing
(27:50-28:30)
If the mechanical damage was from deer (and not just bad genetics), you can give the new stems a much better chance of yielding a high quality tree if you strategically leave the tree you just cut off on the ground surrounding the stump. Those branches can physically protect the the newly developing stems from the same type of deer damage that might be responsible for its current poor form. Similarly, use other branches and brushy material to protect both the expected new stems on this tree and the stems of other nice but vulnerable young trees in the stand.
Is there an optimal time for pruning a mature fruiting walnut. I always try to practice proper pruning techniques for each tree spec.
Pruning should ideally occur when the tree is dormant. So early spring or in the fall after the leaves have dropped.
Thanks for posting this video
Looks like he is cutting into the branch collar
There is no sound track?
All Stores 900,000 Please Lower the price of all Brands of Military Equipment and Local for All Brands of Black Walnuts Products and Production Cost Now 900,000 That's Too Much $$ 900,000 Now The Whole World 900,000 Now 🙏 🤲 🕍 🕌 ⛪ 🛕