Nice router table, very well made. I have the Triton router and made my own table for it as well. I purchased the triton purely for its ability to be adjustable from the top when in a table, it's permanently fixed in the table and I have never used it conventionally.
Thank you very much. The ability to be used in a router table of these routers is fantastic. And I must say they also preform very well when used conventionally. I’m fortunate to have two now.
Hi very good looking solution, one question though? Is it possible to start the router with the external switch? provided that the switch on the router itself is in the ON position ?
I am building a smaller “router box” to fit on a shelf, act as storage for the router and accessories, and as a router table. I decided to use a sliding door to allow an easy way to avoid suction due to the dust extraction, and also decided to mount the router on a circular piece of 5 mm plexiglass that can double as a base plate for easy hand operated use - because I won’t have 2 MOF001’s for sure :-) (Perhaps a little palm router eventually.) I haven’t gotten to this part yet, but it’s up next. Why was it so important to you that the top was flush? You already “ruined it” with the tracks ;-) I hope I can make my top flush enough with a few adjustment screws. Is the table sturdy enough when hinges? (My smaller table wouldn’t be, thus the plexiglass plate - which will allow me to also turn the box into a table version of my jigsaw, eventually.) Nice video series though! Consider adding more explanations about what you were happy about with the old table and do the same on the new, and what changes you are doing and why - and after using the new table some time, if you are happy with the changes. I really would like your evaluation and comparison of the two tables. Such information is very valuable to a beginning hobbyist like myself :-)
Hello Casper, Thank you for your reaction and I'm going to try and answer your questions as good as I can. The reason I wanted my table to be as flush as possible has to do with routing small parts. In my old table I used a homemade mounting plate to hold the router and no matter how hard I tried to keep it level with the rest of the table after a while I had to adjust it again. And the moment you notice it needed adjusting, or dust had collected underneath, is when the workpiece catches on the ledge while you're routing. You made a fair point about the tracks but.. The tracks a just slightly below the surface of the table and I made absolutely sure noting could catch on them when using the table. Further more the tracks are far away enough from the router bit to not be a hinderance when routing small parts. My table is very sturdy, even with the hinges. This probably has to do with the weight of the top I've used. You might have seen I made a little latch to secure the top. To be honest I've never used this. The tabletop doesn't move at all. Be sure to use enough hinges though. I like the idea of doing a comparison video one day. Thank you for the suggestion. I had never thought this video (series) would get the amount of views it does currently to be honest and haven't thought about doing a video like that. Currently I'm in the middle of doing a guitar building series which takes a lot of time to do, but I'll keep this high on my to do list. Thank you again for the tip and if you have any further questions please let me know. Good luck and have fun making your Router box.
Hello Dear, I'm looking for a triton router that has the right power to build guitar bodies and necks, i see you are a guitar builder too, so...., do you think the 1400watts will be enough for my needs? are you using the MOF001 under the table for build guitar bodies as well? i hope you can give me some advice, cheers from Italy
Hi Cris, The 1400W is powerful enough for building guitars. I indeed use a Triton MOF001 in my table and I think it's perfect for what I do with it. You don't need that powerful of a router. In guitar building the router is mostly used to clean up edges along a template with the exception of the truss rod channel. For larger cavities and such it is much easier and quicker and less noisy to use forstner bits to remove most of the material.
@@UnquendorGuitars thank you SO MUCH dude! I'm planning to buy the longer bit with 12mm collet and 50mm tall, so I don't have to upside down the guitar, also because I'will do a neck trough guitar, so... from your experience, do you think the 50mm bit will be too much stressful for the MOF001 ?? if yes i will consider a different route bit , i hope you can tell what is your point of views n this question, because i think the 1400w MOF is the most comfortable one to use handheld and also in the route table! i say thank you again ! and have a GOOD job!
@@cris_viga_loca If you make shallow passes and don't remove a lot of material at once I think the 1400W router will do just fine. Also please look at my more detailed reply on your question about this in another of my videos.
Hi Aevo Guitars, Yes I did, but it's been too long ago to remember the exact dimensions from the top of my head. I do know I kept the top as thick as possible but had enough clearance on top to be able to reach the collet with a wrench. I think I explain everything in this video: ruclips.net/video/YAZQXfP_KQI/видео.html
* Brilliant , truly enjoyed every video to learn how to build a router table and all the features possible with the Triton Router :)
Great video buddy. Clear, concise and straight to the point. Gunn subscribe based on the quality of the info.
Nice router table, very well made. I have the Triton router and made my own table for it as well. I purchased the triton purely for its ability to be adjustable from the top when in a table, it's permanently fixed in the table and I have never used it conventionally.
Thank you very much. The ability to be used in a router table of these routers is fantastic. And I must say they also preform very well when used conventionally. I’m fortunate to have two now.
@@UnquendorGuitars so Triton DID contact you? :)
@@alexandrupreda4645 Unfortunately they haven't. I bought a second one. ( I'm fortunate my wife gave me permission to do so ;-p)
Hi very good looking solution, one question though? Is it possible to start the router with the external switch? provided that the switch on the router itself is in the ON position ?
I am building a smaller “router box” to fit on a shelf, act as storage for the router and accessories, and as a router table. I decided to use a sliding door to allow an easy way to avoid suction due to the dust extraction, and also decided to mount the router on a circular piece of 5 mm plexiglass that can double as a base plate for easy hand operated use - because I won’t have 2 MOF001’s for sure :-) (Perhaps a little palm router eventually.) I haven’t gotten to this part yet, but it’s up next.
Why was it so important to you that the top was flush? You already “ruined it” with the tracks ;-) I hope I can make my top flush enough with a few adjustment screws.
Is the table sturdy enough when hinges? (My smaller table wouldn’t be, thus the plexiglass plate - which will allow me to also turn the box into a table version of my jigsaw, eventually.)
Nice video series though! Consider adding more explanations about what you were happy about with the old table and do the same on the new, and what changes you are doing and why - and after using the new table some time, if you are happy with the changes. I really would like your evaluation and comparison of the two tables. Such information is very valuable to a beginning hobbyist like myself :-)
Hello Casper,
Thank you for your reaction and I'm going to try and answer your questions as good as I can.
The reason I wanted my table to be as flush as possible has to do with routing small parts. In my old table I used a homemade mounting plate to hold the router and no matter how hard I tried to keep it level with the rest of the table after a while I had to adjust it again. And the moment you notice it needed adjusting, or dust had collected underneath, is when the workpiece catches on the ledge while you're routing.
You made a fair point about the tracks but.. The tracks a just slightly below the surface of the table and I made absolutely sure noting could catch on them when using the table. Further more the tracks are far away enough from the router bit to not be a hinderance when routing small parts.
My table is very sturdy, even with the hinges. This probably has to do with the weight of the top I've used. You might have seen I made a little latch to secure the top. To be honest I've never used this. The tabletop doesn't move at all. Be sure to use enough hinges though.
I like the idea of doing a comparison video one day. Thank you for the suggestion.
I had never thought this video (series) would get the amount of views it does currently to be honest and haven't thought about doing a video like that.
Currently I'm in the middle of doing a guitar building series which takes a lot of time to do, but I'll keep this high on my to do list.
Thank you again for the tip and if you have any further questions please let me know.
Good luck and have fun making your Router box.
Hello Dear, I'm looking for a triton router that has the right power to build guitar bodies and necks, i see you are a guitar builder too, so...., do you think the 1400watts will be enough for my needs? are you using the MOF001 under the table for build guitar bodies as well? i hope you can give me some advice, cheers from Italy
Hi Cris,
The 1400W is powerful enough for building guitars. I indeed use a Triton MOF001 in my table and I think it's perfect for what I do with it.
You don't need that powerful of a router. In guitar building the router is mostly used to clean up edges along a template with the exception of the truss rod channel. For larger cavities and such it is much easier and quicker and less noisy to use forstner bits to remove most of the material.
@@UnquendorGuitars thank you SO MUCH dude! I'm planning to buy the longer bit with 12mm collet and 50mm tall, so I don't have to upside down the guitar, also because I'will do a neck trough guitar, so... from your experience, do you think the 50mm bit will be too much stressful for the MOF001 ??
if yes i will consider a different route bit , i hope you can tell what is your point of views n this question, because i think the 1400w MOF is the most comfortable one to use handheld and also in the route table! i say thank you again ! and have a GOOD job!
@@cris_viga_loca
If you make shallow passes and don't remove a lot of material at once I think the 1400W router will do just fine.
Also please look at my more detailed reply on your question about this in another of my videos.
@@UnquendorGuitars Thanks!
Did you route out some of the wood underneath? How thick does the wood top have to be?
Hi Aevo Guitars,
Yes I did, but it's been too long ago to remember the exact dimensions from the top of my head.
I do know I kept the top as thick as possible but had enough clearance on top to be able to reach the collet with a wrench.
I think I explain everything in this video:
ruclips.net/video/YAZQXfP_KQI/видео.html
Is that the 1400w model or the 2000w model.
Thanks
It’s the 1400W model. That’s plenty of power for what I need to do. Maybe if you want to use those big molding bits you might need the larger router.
@@UnquendorGuitars ahh that good is there plenty of power for the body's, thanks for the reply