Good job adressing this. I experienced this issue with my rooted CR10SE,instead of sending the file from creality print directly from the printer or starting it from the nebula pad, i ONLY upload directly to fluidd and start the print from there. No more issues.
Right. It’s because using the pad adds on the zoffset from it onto of the fluidd config. So having it zero on the screen OR zero in firmware is the only way to not have it double on you if you want to switch. Basically one or the other OR make sure it’s zeroed out and only use one or the other for z. Otherwise you gonna be scratching your head AND your pei. 😂
Nice one. It was a confusing experience with the qidi going through the screen setup, but then being used to klipper for adjustments... Going to be sending this video to people in the qidi discord when those questions inevitably come up.
Thanks Fedor! I've ran into this problem early on, with my Neptune 4 Pro and ended up having to reset the printer to factory, reload an older printer config, re-level and set Z. Then I didn't touch the Z in the printer config until I checked out the three macros one at a time. As soon as I set Z offset and it hit the bed, I was watching it, and realized setting it in the printer.cfg was wrong for me. I removed it. But I didn't think about why it was doing this. Now I know. Just in case you're curious though, there is a hack to load Klipper screen instead of Elegoos. I played with it, and it works well. Just remember that it is still lurking in the background though.
OOO I gotta find that hack. I do like elegoos interface on this machine, it’s one of the best ones out of all these, in my opinion, but I personally would still like to use vanilla klipperscreen.
I recently found that the "Z" offset under the Printer Settings tab (X-Max3) doesn't seem to be having any effect. I added a positive offset but the next print didn't adjust on the printer for the value I entered on the Printer Settings tab.
Thats the thing, they have addressed it, but the manufacturers are ALSO addressing it on their own. haha. So that’s kind of the issue. There is two ways to do it and both of them dont talk to each other. haha
@@3DPrintSOSon a normal klipper it is also annoying....on my last print I first forgot to load the heightmap. That fixed I set the z offset perfect while doing the first layer. And forgot to save it. Problems I never had with marlin
Hello - Question Please: I plan to purchase a FDM printer, however there are so many choices. I plan to print toys & gadgets for my grandkids and also miniatures for sure - I am a no-nonsense guy, I like to point - click & print - not much of a tinker type person (yet). The choices are: 1) FlashForge 5M (down to $299) 2) Bambu A1 Mini ($299.00) 3) QiDi X Smart 3 ($299.00) ** I might even consider the Bambu P1P ** I would welcome an honest opinion! Thanks for your time - Frank S.
Hi Fedor,A very helpful video since now have the Qidi Tech X-Plus-3 Printer. This is the 1st core xy fast klipper enclosed and heated chamber 3D printer I've ever had! I use the printers own UI screen for the Z Off Setting. I can't do it in Fluid as I can't seem to get it going? I have just a basic printer photo of the printer under the Qidi Slicer Device tab, stating if the printing is going or on standby etc. No control there. I was asked to do a update of the firmware and did so by copying it over by the USB stick, The printer was fine until I updated it's firmware to V 4.2.10 and Then after the updating. Now the printer keeps crashing and telling me to Restart Klipper and Firmware Restart. on the control screen after of course stopping the two good prints half way through Both and not being able to carry them on after! I contacted Qidi Help by email and sent them the info and photos etc. They said that the Memory of the printer needs to be cleared of files and I need to update to V4.2.10 firmware. But I just emailed them the reply pointing out that I had already done that update version and that's when the printer stopped working right? They said go in to Fluid interface and clear the files in the onboard memory. I told them I can't as I don't have the Fluid interface only that basic device monitoring Icon. I don't know anything about how to get it done? So I've asked for them to tell me. The 2nd failed printing because of the 2nd shut off was my very 1st ASA print, I just brought the Flashforge ASA filament this week. I never used it before. he shame is the print was perfect even down to the tree supports being so too. But the printer firmware crashed half way through it. Hopefully Qidi will help me sort it out? I did ask them for the Original Firmware the Printer came with as that worked! But they said use the V 4.2.10 update even though as I told them that was when the firmware failed. Such a huge pain just as I was enjoying this printer!
What is also fun is if you do a calibration from the screen on a Qidi X-Max3 and you do not press the "Completed" button after the bed mapping, the offsets will not get stored in the Qidi - leaving you about 1mm away from the bed when you start your print. While you have to (maybe?) start the bed leveling process from the printer, if for no other reason than to use the plastic sheet to get your initial gap set. But you don't have to finish it from there. You can go sit down and begin a print once the printer is (not quite) finished with the bed leveling. However, doing this will toss some or all of the results of the bed leveling and you will most likely start out "air printing". Qidi is aware of this and I think that the "fix" is to push the "Completed" button. This is reasonable, but it doesn't hurt to make people aware of this foible. Printing TPU for the first time - looks like poop.
This Happend to me. After printing and did some baby Z step to fine tune the z offset because there are no "save Settings" on the screen. I saved it in Fluidd. the next print It scratch the PEI sheet so bad not only did I needed a New PEI sheet I needed a new Nozzle
Hey Fedor, After what seems like ages of back & forth with Qidi Customer Help, I got my Qidi X Plus 3 Printer to work again! It was playing me up by starting a print then part way through the printer would stop and I would get all these error messages about the memory or the heater etc. Over a few emails to them sending them photos of the errors and what happened, I got the damn thing working and unlike before the Fluid interface was now working. I had to buy a new 10 meter long LAN CAT 7 Cable to go from the router of mine to the printer so the PC could use it's Cat 7 cable to the router to control the printer by the Browser and Slicer. Now it is at least printing as I was told to use Fluid to clear files from the printers own Memory, Which I have done. So now that is sorted I need to ask you which Web Camera with USB cable will be the best but lowest costing one so I can set up the direct views of the printing and do time lapses? It don't need to be super special one but have a good enough filming and video quality to work well. And how do I set up the camera for it and store the videos taken? And where does it plug in to? It be a USB A end plug or do I need a USB C? Also when I use the Browser to connect to the Printer by my Browser it said connection Not Secure up the top left of the Browser page, How do I make it secure? I am using the CAT 7 cables from the PC to the Router then to the Printer so is that not local and secure? Thanks.
Quite the journey! Grab the cheap Logitech 920 camera. I use one and it works well. Really, most usb A cameras work with klipper. You can always look at the klipper documentation for Timelapse setup. As for the not secure message, just ignore it. It’s all local anyway.
@@3DPrintSOS Hi Fedor Thanks for the information! With the camera what would be the best way to mount it to do any time lapse of the inside of the X Plus 3 Build area if I have the cover on since I do use the ASA & abs & PETG Printing in the enclosed area. In fact I never done ASA until now? I have some Flash Forge Black ASA filament as my 1st one. It looked great on the 1st go until the memory problems stopped it printing! I also picked up with the ASA a spool of bright yellow Flash Forge TPU, be great to try that too? is TPU okay to print in the x plus 3? Thanks 😁
Good job adressing this. I experienced this issue with my rooted CR10SE,instead of sending the file from creality print directly from the printer or starting it from the nebula pad, i ONLY upload directly to fluidd and start the print from there. No more issues.
two days of trying to figure it out thanks!
Right. It’s because using the pad adds on the zoffset from it onto of the fluidd config. So having it zero on the screen OR zero in firmware is the only way to not have it double on you if you want to switch. Basically one or the other OR make sure it’s zeroed out and only use one or the other for z. Otherwise you gonna be scratching your head AND your pei. 😂
This is why! Thank you Fedor, it kept running into the layers and it didn't really make sense until now.
Nice one. It was a confusing experience with the qidi going through the screen setup, but then being used to klipper for adjustments...
Going to be sending this video to people in the qidi discord when those questions inevitably come up.
Thanks for letting the community know Fedor.
Thanks Fedor! I've ran into this problem early on, with my Neptune 4 Pro and ended up having to reset the printer to factory, reload an older printer config, re-level and set Z. Then I didn't touch the Z in the printer config until I checked out the three macros one at a time. As soon as I set Z offset and it hit the bed, I was watching it, and realized setting it in the printer.cfg was wrong for me. I removed it. But I didn't think about why it was doing this. Now I know. Just in case you're curious though, there is a hack to load Klipper screen instead of Elegoos. I played with it, and it works well. Just remember that it is still lurking in the background though.
OOO I gotta find that hack. I do like elegoos interface on this machine, it’s one of the best ones out of all these, in my opinion, but I personally would still like to use vanilla klipperscreen.
watching during spedgettie night 👍🏻
I recently found that the "Z" offset under the Printer Settings tab (X-Max3) doesn't seem to be having any effect. I added a positive offset but the next print didn't adjust on the printer for the value I entered on the Printer Settings tab.
The Z offset with Klipper is absolutely annoying and needs to be addressed by the developer. Marlin's approach to it is very sensible in contrast.
Thats the thing, they have addressed it, but the manufacturers are ALSO addressing it on their own. haha. So that’s kind of the issue. There is two ways to do it and both of them dont talk to each other. haha
@@3DPrintSOSon a normal klipper it is also annoying....on my last print I first forgot to load the heightmap. That fixed I set the z offset perfect while doing the first layer. And forgot to save it. Problems I never had with marlin
Hello - Question Please:
I plan to purchase a FDM printer, however there are so many choices. I plan to print toys & gadgets for my grandkids and also miniatures for sure - I am a no-nonsense guy, I like to point - click & print - not much of a tinker type person (yet).
The choices are:
1) FlashForge 5M (down to $299)
2) Bambu A1 Mini ($299.00)
3) QiDi X Smart 3 ($299.00)
** I might even consider the Bambu P1P **
I would welcome an honest opinion!
Thanks for your time - Frank S.
The 5M at this price is going to be hard to beat!
Ahhh the janitor. Sub.
I think we need a janitor shirt
For the Qidi printers, the later firmwares they modded their version of Klipper to minimize this issue.
Hi Fedor,A very helpful video since now have the Qidi Tech X-Plus-3 Printer.
This is the 1st core xy fast klipper enclosed and heated chamber 3D printer I've ever had!
I use the printers own UI screen for the Z Off Setting. I can't do it in Fluid as I can't seem to get it going?
I have just a basic printer photo of the printer under the Qidi Slicer Device tab, stating if the printing is going or on standby etc. No control there.
I was asked to do a update of the firmware and did so by copying it over by the USB stick, The printer was fine until I updated it's firmware to V 4.2.10 and Then after the updating.
Now the printer keeps crashing and telling me to Restart Klipper and Firmware Restart. on the control screen after of course
stopping the two good prints half way through Both and not being able to carry them on after!
I contacted Qidi Help by email and sent them the info and photos etc. They said that the Memory of the printer needs to be cleared of files and I need to update to V4.2.10 firmware.
But I just emailed them the reply pointing out that I had already done that update version and that's when the printer stopped working right?
They said go in to Fluid interface and clear the files in the onboard memory. I told them I can't as I don't have the Fluid interface only that basic device monitoring Icon.
I don't know anything about how to get it done? So I've asked for them to tell me.
The 2nd failed printing because of the 2nd shut off was my very 1st ASA print, I just brought the Flashforge ASA filament this week. I never used it before.
he shame is the print was perfect even down to the tree supports being so too. But the printer firmware crashed half way through it.
Hopefully Qidi will help me sort it out? I did ask them for the Original Firmware the Printer came with as that worked!
But they said use the V 4.2.10 update even though as I told them that was when the firmware failed. Such a huge pain just as I was enjoying this printer!
What is also fun is if you do a calibration from the screen on a Qidi X-Max3 and you do not press the "Completed" button after the bed mapping, the offsets will not get stored in the Qidi - leaving you about 1mm away from the bed when you start your print.
While you have to (maybe?) start the bed leveling process from the printer, if for no other reason than to use the plastic sheet to get your initial gap set. But you don't have to finish it from there. You can go sit down and begin a print once the printer is (not quite) finished with the bed leveling. However, doing this will toss some or all of the results of the bed leveling and you will most likely start out "air printing".
Qidi is aware of this and I think that the "fix" is to push the "Completed" button. This is reasonable, but it doesn't hurt to make people aware of this foible.
Printing TPU for the first time - looks like poop.
This Happend to me. After printing and did some baby Z step to fine tune the z offset because there are no "save Settings" on the screen. I saved it in Fluidd. the next print It scratch the PEI sheet so bad not only did I needed a New PEI sheet I needed a new Nozzle
tell me if you get a good orca profile for the N4P. Also how about a video about building a profile or importing a profile into orca
Got a decent one from the Uncle Jesse Patreon.
Yeah I'm just to dumb to know how to import, unless it's just open it as a separate @@3DPrintSOS
The latest Orca has the N4P btw ;)
Hey Fedor, After what seems like ages of back & forth with Qidi Customer Help, I got my Qidi X Plus 3 Printer to work again!
It was playing me up by starting a print then part way through the printer would stop and I would get all these error messages about the memory or the heater etc.
Over a few emails to them sending them photos of the errors and what happened, I got the damn thing working and unlike before the Fluid interface was now working.
I had to buy a new 10 meter long LAN CAT 7 Cable to go from the router of mine to the printer so the PC could use it's Cat 7 cable to the router to control the printer by the Browser and Slicer.
Now it is at least printing as I was told to use Fluid to clear files from the printers own Memory, Which I have done.
So now that is sorted I need to ask you which Web Camera with USB cable will be the best but lowest costing one so I can set up the direct views of the printing and do time lapses?
It don't need to be super special one but have a good enough filming and video quality to work well. And how do I set up the camera for it and store the videos taken?
And where does it plug in to? It be a USB A end plug or do I need a USB C?
Also when I use the Browser to connect to the Printer by my Browser it said connection Not Secure up the top left of the Browser page, How do I make it secure?
I am using the CAT 7 cables from the PC to the Router then to the Printer so is that not local and secure?
Thanks.
Quite the journey! Grab the cheap Logitech 920 camera. I use one and it works well. Really, most usb A cameras work with klipper. You can always look at the klipper documentation for Timelapse setup.
As for the not secure message, just ignore it. It’s all local anyway.
@@3DPrintSOS Hi Fedor Thanks for the information! With the camera what would be the best way to mount it to do any time lapse of the inside of the X Plus 3 Build area if I have the cover on since I do use the ASA & abs & PETG Printing in the enclosed area. In fact I never done ASA until now? I have some Flash Forge Black ASA filament as my 1st one. It looked great on the 1st go until the memory problems stopped it printing!
I also picked up with the ASA a spool of bright yellow Flash Forge TPU, be great to try that too? is TPU okay to print in the x plus 3? Thanks 😁