Just bought a complete kit I'm going to install on the lower part of my front windshield to keep my wipers from freezing up. Supposed to work awesome for that.
@@yvorfalcon3025 it isn't perfect but helped quite a bit. The defrost on my Wrangler is a joke even if you are sweating to death probably because of the steep windshield.
Use a plastic bondo spreader to lay the contacts down against the glass starting at one end and moving across the release paper to the other end of the window similar to putting on tint film. Flat crimp connections are generally less than reliable... especially on a 40A resistive heater circuit and the bullet disconnect you used is only good to 25A or 30A on a good day. Crimp connectors with wings that fold over the conductor and insulation will last longer without overheating. Rather than cut off the factory Packard 56 connector on the RH side of the cab. I'd use a 1/4" Packard 56 male to Packard 56 Female disconnect terminal on 12ga GP or SXL extension wire. The factory 14ga defroster wire is seriously undersize but they get away with it because it shuts off. House wire is not good for automotive use. You want to use Automotive grade wire of the same gauge as the OEM wire GP PVC wire will work fine inside the cab but crosslink Polyethylene is better.
Cardboard works nicely to sub the bondo spreader. I agree single strand copper wire is too rigid for automotive and normally will vibrate heavily and break the connection. Oth I prefer soldering to any type of crimp connector, t splice or melted butt connector. Imo
When I strip wires that lead to recessed areas, Im cautious about the stress i put on the wire. Unless you know for sure there could be a possible retainer or connector behind the panel, so I heat the insulation with a lighter, softens it and pulls off so clean
I have a 2017 CX3, the rear window's defroster works but the 5 in the middle have been rubber off from the previous owner 7-10 inches on one end, I used a multimeter and it absolutely is active all the way across, if I get one of these kits can I just run the lines from one side to the other and make contact with the existing points to close the gaps?
9:40 Good job, but you might want to go by Wall Mart or Harbor Freight and buy the cheapest automatic wire stripper you can find; mine cost about $5 and works better than any wire stripper (automatic or manual) that I've ever owned. The newer ones with a pressure adjustment are a lot less hassle than the multi-hole ones from the 1970s .
Can you apply it over to of tint? My window tinting was bubbled really bad and I got it retinted but they said that the red lines were deteriorated so they went ahead and retented the window and removed the old one and I'm wondering if I can stick on this thing over top of the ceramic window tinting, because on day night like tonight, I can't see, even ifi use anti-fog liquid (rain-x brand).
On Chevy trucks, left side (driver's side) is power coming from wire harness. Right side (passenger) is ground wire terminating at a ground stud on the cab a few inches below the rear window.
Thank You for this video. I can not find a kit for my vehicle so I am going to attempt to make one using Copper Foil EMI double sided Conductive Adhesive tape. I will use the 1/8 inch Copper Foil EMI double sided Conductive Adhesive tape for the small lines running across, and 3/4 inch Copper Foil EMI double sided Conductive Adhesive tape for the 2 busses. I am going to use double sided foam mounting tape for the busses and as for the 1/8 lines running across , my window for my Tacoma is 16 inches tall so I will use 11 lines spacing them 3/4 inches apart to cover about 12 inches leaving about 2 inches on top and bottom.
@@gianniskaragiannis9293 I really wanted to use the copper tape method. Since I have 3 back windows Originally I was going to do the copper tape. But my middle window slides. So I was going to run 2 jumper wires from one window to the other. The middle window wouldn't have defrost because it slides and that would be too much trouble. Now I have a new idea
@@nogripes All good May be too good conductivity that why no heat? I can make a video and put on utube I dint buy exact product what u show Just got 4mm copper foil line How wide your lines? Lol
@@vaninec Too much conductivity would just blow the fuse (or worse). You should be able to measure 12 V across each grid wire if they are in parallel or maybe more like 4 V on a setup like this one. If you don't measure any voltage on the grid, just keep working back toward the supply wires and find where the open connection (which should measure 12 V across it) is.
Here is the video I promised!I can confirm that anyone can make a grid like that with some basic tools,skills and patience! ruclips.net/video/WCl7R1Y-aOk/видео.html
If you do a search for "DIY rear defroster" you'll find various models including this one. They might also sell them at chain auto parts stores like AutoZone and O'Reilley.
Frostfighter... WORST CUSTOMER SERVICE EVER! These were the emails sent back and fourth to them: Hi I have a 70's Karmann Ghia with a rotten/rusted grid. It's done. What do you suggest? There is a twist to my problem. Originally it didn't have a defroster. I used the defroster hardware from a Ford Pinto station wagon. I have voltage at the window. I do all my own work. Twist #2... I live in Italy. Reply: No worries. Please send the measurements of the defroster on the glass, height and width. Then we need the number of elements on the glass for the defroster. With this, I can recommend a Clear View defroster from our 450 sizes. Ciao. John Seaborn Customer Care My response: Hi John, Please note the power supply comes from a Ford Pinto station wagon. Do you want the number of elements from the Pinto? It should be matched to the power supply right? My Karmann Ghia likely has a smaller surface area compared to the Ford and would need a larger surface area to accommodate the Ford power supply... or am I being overly cautious? Grazie! NO RESPONSE! My follow up email: Have you had a chance to speak with your engineers? His Reply: Please send the measurements of the defroster on the glass of the vehicle you intend to install the defroster in, height and width. Then we need the number of elements on the glass for the defroster. With this, I can recommend a Clear View defroster from our 450 sizes. John Seaborn Customer Care My response: The window is 44" across with 7 lines. NO RESPONSE!
Rear Window Defrost Kits on Amazon - amzn.to/2NcIfMn
Rear Window Defrost Anti Fog Options on Amazon - amzn.to/2pSBc3q
Hi. I can't seem to find the full kit. Amazing doesn't sell it no more?
Nice to actually see the parts of the kit in detail and see them installed. Thanks for doing the review.
Just bought a complete kit I'm going to install on the lower part of my front windshield to keep my wipers from freezing up. Supposed to work awesome for that.
How that worked?
@@yvorfalcon3025 it isn't perfect but helped quite a bit. The defrost on my Wrangler is a joke even if you are sweating to death probably because of the steep windshield.
Where did you get the complete kit from? I can't seem to find it anywhere
Plz post the link to buy the grid lines. The op has given the links for a repair liquid kit. But i want those grid lines
Use a plastic bondo spreader to lay the contacts down against the glass starting at one end and moving across the release paper to the other end of the window similar to putting on tint film.
Flat crimp connections are generally less than reliable... especially on a 40A resistive heater circuit and the bullet disconnect you used is only good to 25A or 30A on a good day. Crimp connectors with wings that fold over the conductor and insulation will last longer without overheating. Rather than cut off the factory Packard 56 connector on the RH side of the cab. I'd use a 1/4" Packard 56 male to Packard 56 Female disconnect terminal on 12ga GP or SXL extension wire. The factory 14ga defroster wire is seriously undersize but they get away with it because it shuts off.
House wire is not good for automotive use. You want to use Automotive grade wire of the same gauge as the OEM wire GP PVC wire will work fine inside the cab but crosslink Polyethylene is better.
Cardboard works nicely to sub the bondo spreader. I agree single strand copper wire is too rigid for automotive and normally will vibrate heavily and break the connection. Oth I prefer soldering to any type of crimp connector, t splice or melted butt connector. Imo
I just cleaned my rear window and all the grids just flaked off. Fla. car barely survived a maine winter. Lol this video might come in handy. Thanks!
When I strip wires that lead to recessed areas, Im cautious about the stress i put on the wire. Unless you know for sure there could be a possible retainer or connector behind the panel, so I heat the insulation with a lighter, softens it and pulls off so clean
Plz add the links for the grid lines too. The 2 links you gave are for liquid type repair kit, not the one you are using.
Thank you for this video I'm gona order this for my truck
Thanks for the content. Very helpful
It is very useful. How long does the whole procedure take? And any idea who would do it for me? I asked mechanics but they refuse to do it.
I have a 2017 CX3, the rear window's defroster works but the 5 in the middle have been rubber off from the previous owner 7-10 inches on one end, I used a multimeter and it absolutely is active all the way across, if I get one of these kits can I just run the lines from one side to the other and make contact with the existing points to close the gaps?
9:40 Good job, but you might want to go by Wall Mart or Harbor Freight and buy the cheapest automatic wire stripper you can find; mine cost about $5 and works better than any wire stripper (automatic or manual) that I've ever owned. The newer ones with a pressure adjustment are a lot less hassle than the multi-hole ones from the 1970s .
This is the first video addressing this issue with a new advanced way , can you please update the links because i couldn't find it on amazon .. thanks
www.frostfighter.com/frost-fighter-contact.htm Hope that helps :-)
Thank you!
Neat and simple explain..... Rare vdo very Informative......
I was about to do that by cutting thin copper tape lines.If it works out,I'll make a video.You can't buy stuff like that in my country.
@@nogripes Its working.I had to connect them in series,to avoid using current controler.for a car that never had defroster grid,the result is amazing!
@@LZ2SM Could you please provide some details, how you used the copper tape? I also can't buy the kit here in Europe.
@@anikhushi9873 you cut lines from the tape.3mm wide.I bought it from amazon,but you can try with aluminium.harder to solder,but easier to find
genius
Thanks for the follow up comment and also your video.👍👍
Good presentation!
They no longer sell this?
Where can I buy this your links don't work for this exact product
Can you apply it over to of tint?
My window tinting was bubbled really bad and I got it retinted but they said that the red lines were deteriorated so they went ahead and retented the window and removed the old one and I'm wondering if I can stick on this thing over top of the ceramic window tinting, because on day night like tonight, I can't see, even ifi use anti-fog liquid (rain-x brand).
Is like the left side ground and right side positive or both are positives you dident explain that hooking up part
On Chevy trucks, left side (driver's side) is power coming from wire harness. Right side (passenger) is ground wire terminating at a ground stud on the cab a few inches below the rear window.
Can be installed over a wondow film?
Thank You for this video. I can not find a kit for my vehicle so I am going to attempt to make one using Copper Foil EMI double sided Conductive Adhesive tape. I will use the 1/8 inch Copper Foil EMI double sided Conductive Adhesive tape for the small lines running across, and 3/4 inch Copper Foil EMI double sided Conductive Adhesive tape for the 2 busses. I am going to use double sided foam mounting tape for the busses and as for the 1/8 lines running across , my window for my Tacoma is 16 inches tall so I will use 11 lines spacing them 3/4 inches apart to cover about 12 inches leaving about 2 inches on top and bottom.
What happened with the copper double sided tape? Did it work?
@@gianniskaragiannis9293 I really wanted to use the copper tape method. Since I have 3 back windows Originally I was going to do the copper tape. But my middle window slides. So I was going to run 2 jumper wires from one window to the other. The middle window wouldn't have defrost because it slides and that would be too much trouble. Now I have a new idea
I tried to find the installation kit and they didn't have it. Is there a product code for it?
Big thumbs up brother...
Cool thing, but I doubt it will work for my 2nd gen 4runner, it has the backwindow going in the tailgate, so nothing thick is going to fit :(
How I install in my car back screen
سلام عليكم اين اجد منها في الوطن العربي انا من العراق هل متوفره عندنا ام لا
buy link for europe? ebay?
Just install it
But my not working i even run new wire from a battery for experiment
And still no heat just a conduct electricity
Any suggestions?
@@nogripes
All good
May be too good conductivity that why no heat?
I can make a video and put on utube
I dint buy exact product what u show
Just got 4mm copper foil line
How wide your lines?
Lol
@@nogripes
U probably right too much conductivity only one option here
I thought should work but no....
@@vaninec Too much conductivity would just blow the fuse (or worse). You should be able to measure 12 V across each grid wire if they are in parallel or maybe more like 4 V on a setup like this one. If you don't measure any voltage on the grid, just keep working back toward the supply wires and find where the open connection (which should measure 12 V across it) is.
Here is the video I promised!I can confirm that anyone can make a grid like that with some basic tools,skills and patience! ruclips.net/video/WCl7R1Y-aOk/видео.html
Is that copper safe for back seat passengers?
Yes. It's the same as the OEM factory uses.
Hi bro.. I want to buy a defogger like you have but I'm in Indonesia. Can you send for me and how much price. Please answer, thank you
Dimas Soeganda sama wkwkwk
sama, nih. Bales dong bro mark
Is that the only way to connect the new grid to the wires? It seems a little weird just having those wires dangling like that.
Where can i get this
If you do a search for "DIY rear defroster" you'll find various models including this one. They might also sell them at chain auto parts stores like AutoZone and O'Reilley.
Do you still play guitar
Frostfighter... WORST CUSTOMER SERVICE EVER!
These were the emails sent back and fourth to them:
Hi I have a 70's Karmann Ghia with a rotten/rusted grid. It's done. What do you suggest? There is a twist to my problem. Originally it didn't have a defroster. I used the defroster hardware from a Ford Pinto station wagon. I have voltage at the window. I do all my own work.
Twist #2... I live in Italy.
Reply:
No worries. Please send the measurements of the defroster on the glass, height and width. Then we need the number of elements on the glass for the defroster. With this, I can recommend a Clear View defroster from our 450 sizes.
Ciao.
John Seaborn
Customer Care
My response:
Hi John,
Please note the power supply comes from a Ford Pinto station wagon. Do you want the number of elements from the Pinto? It should be matched to the power supply right? My Karmann Ghia likely has a smaller surface area compared to the Ford and would need a larger surface area to accommodate the Ford power supply... or am I being overly cautious?
Grazie!
NO RESPONSE!
My follow up email:
Have you had a chance to speak with your engineers?
His Reply:
Please send the measurements of the defroster on the glass of the vehicle you intend to install the defroster in, height and width. Then we need the number of elements on the glass for the defroster. With this, I can recommend a Clear View defroster from our 450 sizes.
John Seaborn
Customer Care
My response:
The window is 44" across with 7 lines.
NO RESPONSE!
Hack
Unprofessional installation.
He titled it "DIY".