Preparing a Mokulito Block: Mokulito/Mokuhanga Project combining wood litho & Japanese woodblock
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- Опубликовано: 15 июл 2024
- Here’s a link to the page I used for mixing my gum Arabic powder with water www.naturalpigments.com/gum-a...
In the film I am using bitumen roofing paint - I bought mine from Screwfix
I’m using an office carbon paper, I don’t have the name for that, but it wasn’t a very cheap make - it deposits a good thick layer of carbon. 
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Thanks, Laura, As always well presented easy to follow, and understand. What a star! Best wishes to you and Ben. Richard.
Thanks so much, as always clear and helpful. You're a great teacher, just wish you weren't on the other side of the world!
Your fingers must be sore from all that rubbing away of the masking fluid! Great video again, look forward to see the process progress.
Very interesting Laura. looking forward to the next step. Especially to see if the lines you draw with the carbon paper will come out on the print . (don't even know if that is what you want),
Hi Laura ... a little bit late (5 months!) coming to the party: only just discovered your video sessions and the Mokulito process. Really enjoying the content and your style. A bit nostalgic too ... a five year lithographic print apprenticeship served forty plus years ago. To clarify a couple of points in the comments below : Carbon copy paper image is largely made up of various waxes and carbon black powder (to make the image visible). The wax acts as a binder for the carbon and is oleophillic / hydrophobic - so attracts the oily, greasy ink. Gum Arabic is hydrophillic - attracts water. Oil and water do not mix ... the whole principle of lithography in a nut shell. As for the talc / baking powder ... not sure either. No chemical or process reason for this stage that i know of. Best guess - if applied heavy enough and left long enough gum arabic could "eat" into the image area - as would happen to printing plates. To prevent this the gum arabic layer would have been smoothed out ( effectively wiped off the greasy image). Maybe the talc "fixes" the image as you suggest - preventing the image from smearing when wiping the gum layer onto the plate by forming a "skin" or barrier to prevent this ?
Hi Peter thank you for that - great explanation and very helpful. Still kind of believe it to be pure magic though!
Hi Laura! You can replace the bitumen roofing paint by acrylic paint, and carbon by acrylic markers, they work very well, althoug they´re not greasy. I´ve tryed them.
Thank you! I’ll give it a go
🤞!!
Hi Laura, firstly, thank you for your generous RUclipsd demonstrations. My friends & I (from across the world) are incredibly grateful 💙 (I’ve just purchased your new lino book & intend to buy prints … not only because I’m a fan, but also to acknowledge and thank you for your RUclipss.) You rock!
Secondly, a quick question, did you talc after the dried bitumen, but before rubbing off the masking fluid? My spidey print-sense is telling me to give this a go…
PS, Am also very happy to have a new use for that lip liner I purchased years ago for a wedding (my own) and wore only once… 😂
I’m pretty sure I did - enjoy that lip liner💋
Hi Laura, thanks for this great video. Can you tell me, if the bitumen can be replaced with another substance?
Yes, absolutely
I don’t understand how the carbon lines work? Do they work chemically with the bitumen or serve as a way to print your line detail?
I have No idea either, but the carbon picks up the ink well (not all carbon papers work - they need to lay down a fairly heavy deposit of carbon)
Did you say think bitumen with linseed oil? I missed how you applied the masking fluid…
I diluted the bitumen with the linseed oil (which I’ll be using again in inking) and I just painted on the masking fluid with an old paintbrush
How do you get the cat to lie on the thing you’ve provided…ours would insist on sleeping everywhere else 😂😂
Doris is on my jacket so she THINKS she’s not allowed - it’s honestly the only way to get her to stay put. If I used her bed/blanket she just wouldn’t buy it.