Only for those who need to be recognized for doing something they are supposed to do. Just do it because it’s the right thing to do. If not for your neighbors walking bye.
I don’t know if this worked long term but I think it’s worth a try. What I find amazing is what a bunch of complainers and armchair quarterbacks this video attracted 🥴
Umm just pry it up and put fill under it some gravel or a few rocks. Im sure this works but spray foam soaks up water and breaks down quick in the elements 🤷♂️
Different foams for a different amount of lift. Blue can for minimal Black can for large. Red can for in between. Also the amount of moisture in the ground affects cure.. Foam if enough used and cured should hold up. Some plumbers use foam under fiberglass bathtubs . If it looks like you over filled, put a piece of plywood across the joint with added weight. Will keep it from going too high.
Yeah, I'd like to see it a few years from now after foot traffic and cold weather cycle (if theyre in a cold zone) Having the voids could cause frost heaving.
Too bad. The foam will be rotten in 2-3 years. Just lift the plates with two spades, bring a bit sand and or split underneath, and be happy for 10-15 years.
This is Not going to last. This stuff does not have the structural integrity to withstand constant walking on. It is designed to airseal gaps, not support weight.
I hate to break it to everyone but that type of foam will crush over time and the slab will fall again, you need to use foam that has a lbs designation, I used a 5 lbs foam to shore up a soft wooden plywood deck to prevent having to tear it out, but you would need to find a way to inject it. You can hit it with hammer as hard as you want and it won't really do anything to it. If you hit cured spray foam with a hammer it will crush.
Those cans are not cheap plus he used the expanding foam there is filler foam too that doesn’t expand later. But in the end they can’t take the weight of repeated traffic and might slide off the slab if the soil is clay
Doesn't it just sink back down after time? I would just dig around it and put dirt under it to make sure it stays level forever. Seems like extra cost and alot of work.
@@gr8t1bobo it wouldn't sink back down unless the sub-base fails again. But you could do what you said you just wouldn't want to use dirt, you'd want to use gravel.
When it comes up through the cracks and sides, let it dry all the way and it'll chunk off clean. Do not wipe it while still drying. Also make sure to get the kind that expands. Few tips if anyone is going to try this. Looks good!
@bradcliff7099 yes they do. They make a very low expanding foam for windows and doors so it doesn't bind the jam up and lock em in place. There's high expanding, landscape for ponds, fire retardedant, bug retardedant, big gap filler. There's lots buddy, i so this shit for a living. If you get the shit the windows it won't expand at all under pressure must be in atmosphere pressure to expand what little it does
@cthunter41 Yeah ok I see where you got me on this, but seriously if anyone goes and buys the very low expanding kind, when they know exactly what they are attempting to lift, says to me they don't understand what the different degrees of expansion can do or will do, they really have no business taking on something like this. I'm a truck driver of 30 years and no good at electrical wiring, so I leave it to the electricians. Really my comment was mainly in humor as in I was getting at its kind of common knowledge when buying a can of this that there is an expectation of expansion. No harm no fouls!
Alternatively, 2 pry bars, 1 flat shovel, a bag of sand, & a bag of gravel. (Edit: some sort of blocking [2] for leverage) But this is definitely some big brain thinking, foam is amazingly versatile in application. I have used it as a seal
No way, seriously? It'd be so much easier just to bust it up and lay a new slab than do that. You'd have to lift the whole damn thing up just to get the gravel and sand underneath it, and then struggle getting at level again. That's ridiculous.
@@mikeygee4564 sure if it was bigger than a 3x3 slab. But this is just fixing sidewalk slabs, why go through all that labor and expense, plus you don't have to fiddle with finishing the surface of a new slab to match the rest. Have you worked concrete before? If you have and this is your suggestion then you must be a masochist. However, on a more positive note your suggestion WOULD add longer life to the section. (Edit: I have never had to struggle to level ANYTHING.)
@@FarmerFpv nah you're right. I had enough sense to get educated and make a much better, and more lucrative, living with my noggin. I have worked concrete a decent amount for my own projects, and that's where my experience and input came from, and it sounds like I may have been wrong compared to you guys who slug gray mud for a living. My apologies, and I'll take your word for it. But it's still nice knowing I'm wrong and can pay an ass like you to do it for me for what I make in an hour. If you're nice, I'll by you beer and dinner too. I may even let you eat on the porch. (I kid, I kid - I'm not really this much of a pretentious dick, but it's fun poking at twats that surge on the simple thing they know, in an asshole manner). In all seriousness, I greatly respect your craft. I certainly can't do it as well as you.
@@JC-of2nm fair enough. I don't do it for a living so I'll take your word for it. IME, I've struggled quite a bit getting a slab level after all that work just getting it up (that's what she said). but cheers to ya for knowing what your doing and doing it well.
Doing some loose math spray foam costs approx 7-10 dollars per can plus the hammer drill and bits at ? IDK 300+/-. Compared to a shovel, some dirt and 15min of your time.
@@72Dexter72Manley72 There's a new tool called a "lever" so you can use a scrap pipe and a brick for a "Fulcrum" and life one end of the block, level dirt and lower block back down. I put in parentheses the two new words you never heard of so you can research how this complicated tool works!
@@mrdanger4851 Lol, You're the same person who can level the ground and tamp the dirt down underneath that concrete block "" In 15 minutes "". Lol How about doing all that in 15 minutes. And stop looking like the ass you are. Lol 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤷🏾♂️.
Trial and error, you learn and you succeed. This kind of project is very smart to do, especially that you haven't called a company or contracter to do the work. Good job.
the method I used was to build a jig out of wood and put a single lift point hole in the lower slab and use a car jack to lift the slab up to level ...then drill 7-8 holes and fill with low expansion foam to fill the void. that way it won't lift it up too much but still fill the void.
This actually does work. My leg. Cement square on my frount step. Was wobbly and unleveled. I used 3 cans and it set back up where it was suppose too be. I did one can at a time in different area let it sit for 1-2 hrs did another. My landlord thought I was nuts!! But it worked.
Wow, just wow. I was about to pay someone to come do this for lots of money. Giving this a try today, thanks man! This deserves more views and thumbs up votes!
Just saying.... A 6 foot pry bar under the slab would lift it better so your foam would expand to fill the gap instead of squirting out. a couple of rocks to act as fulcrums and wedges to help with twist as well
Not really, the foam is acting under pressure therefore distribution the overall Youngs Modulus creating a uniform pressure. This will last much longer lifting with a crow bar.
@@Hitngan I 100% agree. As the foam starts to lift the slab, it opens up free space underneath the entire slab which more foam rushes in to fill. It’s actually quite genius how this works and in the end, the force distribution is absolutely perfect, far better than even tamping a layer of gravel would provide because you would NEVER get the compaction of the underlying material and the flatness to perfectly match up with the flatness of the slab. This is quite brilliant.
@@waggtech8793 I wanna see that video lol. When I worked for a sign company we were augering a hole 3' wide by 6 ft deep, we hit an underground 3 phase line, the auger cut thru one phase and into another, huge blue ball of flame. While it was neat, I literally almost died as I was leaning on the auger truck(if it wouldn't have crossed phases), I gave my 2 weeks later that day.
@@roberto3262 From 0:02-0:08 We can clearly see that after the first short walkway block, the next two blocks are much longer. I'll drill and use the spray foam any day for that project.
@@72Dexter72Manley72 then what? In a year or two you've got a ton of spray foam that's underneath them when the settle in deeper. You're not going to get more foam underneath the foam that's in there. That's for sure. Then you have to dig out foam and dirt next time. Yikes! Also, there's no stopping that foam on e it starts expanding. What do you do if it doesn't lifet enough. Same problem. Or if it lifts too much? Lifts higher than the next one that you're trying to match? Same problem. It doesn't seems very fail safe to me I guess.
It looks like you made the same mistake I did with the drill bit. That's an SDS bit. It's for an SDS hammer drill. It looks like you have a regular hammer drill. That's why your bit is wobbly, but it seemed to work.
I bet that foam wasnt intended to lift items and just fill in little areas around a window.....but I'd bet if you have enough cans you could probably get it up a little. I keep taking this little blue pill to help me but nothing so far. 🧐
Definitely worth it to buy the great stuff foam gun saves a lot of hassle on cleanup, if you turn the vacuum to blow while you're drilling it blows out the dust and sends the drill into hyper speed. Just tips
btw.. I apply my 'baking' tip to doing this. Spray pam NON stick to the pan or apply your choice of butter or applesauce and THEN.. A 'small' amount of the DRY MIX, dusting the pan, to prevent sticking... IN this case.. LEAVE THE CONCRETE DUST, in place, anywhere the foam 'may' touch the concrete. Why? To prevent 'sticking' and for EASY clean up, once dried. "Should", come right up.. and then, allow for however you wish to clean further. My opinion. Works the same way on siding. The foam, will adhere to the grime / dust / dirt / mold / mildew, and NOT your siding, IF you don't clean it 1st. In my experience.
WHO'S gonna tell him ???? That foam breaks down and the sidewalk will be right back where it started LOL . This is like the idiots that think the foam will make tires, non-flat tires . LOL
Pretty cool. 👍 There are all kinds of applications for foam. Highway and freeway on and off-ramps, airport runways, buildings. Oh and don't forget car bumpers with plastic over them 🤣
Sure, totally cheaper. Assuming you already have a jackhammer, aggregate, a tamp, some 2x4’s ($7ea right now), wood stakes, a releasing agent, a wheelbarrow, hoe/shovel, the concrete bags, float & edge trowels, expansion joints & sealer laying around. Smh
I use the foam when installing a tub so that it doesn't give and flex. I used to put a bag of concrete under them, but the foam is easier and works well. Just be sure to go a little at a time and make sure the tub is filled with water or it will lift it and cause damage. That's a nice trick on the sidewalk too.
@@theprophetez1357 I was a plumber 30 years, I started using it when I realized all the whirlpools we're being foamed. Your right way way nicer than concrete on this cheap fiberglass / acrylic tubs. Better on sound than mudding them too. On new construction you gotta fill the tubs for inspection, so I'd fill them then go around and foam them in, was a real time and mess saver. Barely costs more then setting in Crete as well.
@@TheAIRspace Yep I find it to have lots of advantages. You know I can't figure out why they call plumbers plumbers, or why they call carpenters carpenters. After all it is carpenters that have to keep things plumb, and plumbers sometimes cause damage that takes a carpenter to fix. So I think a name reversal is in order. 😃😁. Keep up the good work AIR space. 👍
@@theprophetez1357 well 7 ruptured discs later, Im out of that whole plumbing gig, but its all good. I paint stuff for people create art and make youtube videos about art now. And dabble in building science and remodel my own place slowly but surely. Personally Instead of using canned foam, id get a closed cell Kit (for less money overall) for raising a slab like this gentleman did. There is valid concerns about the open cell trapping water and heaving from frost as mentioned. But on a tub the cans are awesome, and I used TONS of the fireblock foam after it came out where I was doing apartment fire restoration work for a few years. As for causing damage. We used to say the only thing worse than termites for your house are plumbers electricians and hvac techs :) Cause a bad one can cut up a lot of stuff that don't need to be :)
I thought the foam keeps expanding as it dries... do you have an updated picture or video to show how level it is now after curing? Did it raise too high? Thanks for sharing the video, I'm going to try it
Hi, thank you for asking. It did raise 0.5-1" higher than expected. Should use less than 4 cans of foam, instead. Will do a follow-up video on this soon.
@@chevman46 Maybe that would be like lifting you car up with a large pry bar and then putting the jack under it? That's the purpose of the foam, to lift the slab (which is usually very heavy) and while lifting the slab, the foam is also compressed giving support under the slab. If you lift it first, then by the time the foam expands, it will seriously raise the slab even higher. IMHO JS
I'm prepared my slab by lifting 1" before applying foam....I'm going to take this next slowly. I never suspected the foam would over lift... Wish me luck.. Many years thinking how to do this .. The day has arrived. No broken slab...ty
One day you might hit a water service or sewer line drilling that deep with those masonary bits...just something to think about said the plumber while no one was listening
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists in Florida most domestic water services from the meter to the house are supposed to be buried around 12-14" deep but I have seen many buried less than that and sewer lines usually are buried around that same depth where it exits the house then slopes about a eighth to a quarter inch per foot til you reach the sewer lateral near the street or rear property line( wherever the easement/right of way happens to run in that area)
So glad I watched this. My slab was about 0.5 in low as well. Tripping hazard. Used four cans instead of six. It is almost perfect. Amazed at the foam coming from the expansion joints.
lol.. they make LONGER DRILL BITS? Call.. BEFORE - YOU - drill.. six feet down! lol. Putting in a fence with that post hole drill? (good times - great idea!) Just being funny..
I have a 4' long pool walk that is faced with pool edge coping and the Pro's wanted $2700 to lift it 1/2" to line coping back up on adjacent slabs and coping. I will try this instead!
A nice honest video. Did the thing - mistake made - tip at end of video to avoid the mistake. Didn't hide mistake and pretended it all worked out, leaving viewers to think "this is so easy... nothing can go wrong". Good video of the reality and caution of doing this. Thank you for posting 👍👍👍
Thank you for watching and asking! Actually, we paid ~$1,200 for these concrete slabs lifted after we bought the house, and the slabs sunk back after ~1.5 years. A 6" overall length bit couldn't get through these 4 - 5" thick slabs + the material the concrete leveling company injected under them 4 years ago.
Have you ever tried to lift a slab of concrete that is roughly 5 ft by 5 ft and 4 to 6 in thick or thicker? So many people think of this but have never tried it for themselves and realize it rarely works.
Great idea but use some leverage(crowbar) to help it hit flush out with the higher one A little piece of grit or what have you will stop the foam from raising it
Thats one of those projects I'd spend $100 on and 4 hours of work, just for my wife to say yea I cant tell you did anything. 🤦♂️
Totally!
Only for those who need to be recognized for doing something they are supposed to do. Just do it because it’s the right thing to do. If not for your neighbors walking bye.
Aint that the truth lol😂
Absolutely true! Lol
Don't do it for your wife. Do it for your property value.
Aww noodle's we lifted it too high now we have to lift the other 8 slabs lol
I’m raising my house today4 inches ,,, how many cans do i need for a 35x40 foundation
550
All of them.
Just 1.
Call the Amish, they'll roll in 100 deep and lift it by hand. And I ain't kidding.
@@jimmartin7881 that is no joke,,, best people ever
1:15 dude. You’re pressing too hard and bent the shit out of your bit. That’s why it wobbles so much now. Let the drill do the work.
He needs an sds. Those are cringy for concrete 😂
@@durtygroove It is an SDS, he put it in a regular chuck.
Way too long of a bit for the job and he never appears to clean the hole with the bit as he's drilling. Smoked it.
@@jeffreywilmot3798 so he doesn't have an sds. Smh. You love to argue don't you?
@@durtygroove 0:30 sure looks like an SDS bit when it's laying on the sidewalk.
Haha he brings a vacuum for cleaning.. dude ever hear of a broom ???
I think you need a longer masonry bit 😂
Lmao. all I thought the whole time
I was like how thick is that slab😂
I was cringing a little as all i could do was picture a water line or wire running underneath or something lol
What is that blurred out by the joint 🤔
I don’t know if this worked long term but I think it’s worth a try.
What I find amazing is what a bunch of complainers and armchair quarterbacks this video attracted 🥴
Probably not. That foam will break down eventually.
This is a complete waste of time. Will degrade almost immediately and now you have great stuff to scrape off everything.
How long would you say it takes to degrade?
It shouldn't degrade that fast because it is not exposed to U.V. rays. That's what really messes up the foam .
🤣😂😂
Wow, I’m shocked. Never thought the pressure would be there as opposed to mud or commercial foam.
BRAVO. That’s a CAN do attitude.
Thanks!
Umm just pry it up and put fill under it some gravel or a few rocks. Im sure this works but spray foam soaks up water and breaks down quick in the elements 🤷♂️
If you think prying works, go try it and come back and tell us about it.
@@troyc5994 my thought when that comment too. If you pry on a 100 sidewalks it might work on one of them.
If you hire a professional that using lifting foam designed specifically for this task, and NOT WINDOW/DOOR foam, it actually works very well.
@@tooz56 It's called pumpjacking. They use a polycrete compound not foam.
This seems like a really half baked way of trying to fix the problem. Lol
there are companies that do pretty much this same thing. they just drill bigger holes and use a different method for the foam.
And charge lot’s of money.
@@Stackali and they use a special foam lol, not the home depot crap
It’s a special foam , the sidewalk will be like it was before in a year with spray foam
@@Hammerjockeyrepair it’s not a special foam, it’s just closed cell foam which is what is in this can.
Great video. I like how you explain it in only 3.5 minutes. Other videos, we would still be in their wanna be movie credits
"Wanna-be movie credits". Excellent!!!
I appreciate that!
Well insulated underneath! Nice added bonus!
SDS on a chuck drill, with that long of a bit? Hope your not a contractor.
Different foams for a different amount of lift. Blue can for minimal
Black can for large. Red can for in between. Also the amount of moisture in the ground affects cure.. Foam if enough used and cured should hold up. Some plumbers use foam under fiberglass bathtubs . If it looks like you over filled, put a piece of plywood across the joint with added weight. Will keep it from going too high.
Or just use less
Did it hold up? That is open cell foam, opposed to closed cell, so it would technically not fare well with water contact
Loctite makes an expanding close cell foam
Yeah, I'd like to see it a few years from now after foot traffic and cold weather cycle (if theyre in a cold zone) Having the voids could cause frost heaving.
I think you'll find it's actually closed cell, not open.
Too bad. The foam will be rotten in 2-3 years. Just lift the plates with two spades, bring a bit sand and or split underneath, and be happy for 10-15 years.
What is that blurred out by the joint 🤔
Any particular reason you don't start at the lowest part and put the foam there?
I'm thinking is so it lifts evenly and naturally pushes foam only where there are gaps
@@jfrankie80 Right, so like there isn't any gap where it is sunk so if you raise the other side some it will make a gap to push foam into
take a 4x8 foot sheet of glass and lift it by only one corner... SNAP!!
With this method it is better if it ends up higher anyway within a week it will settle and be flush
Many different types of cans I'll try the pond or outdoor if they have it, I'm sure they do
Back in 2011 I leveled the concrete around an in-ground swimming pool.
This really works.
Anyone know it’s compression strength?
@@goblin003
Thank you!
This is Not going to last. This stuff does not have the structural integrity to withstand constant walking on. It is designed to airseal gaps, not support weight.
Now why I didn’t see this before spending over 200$ to replace my sidewalk that had sunk 2”
.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Next video how to ... what?
How to lift the other side of the concrete?
🤣🤣🤣
Hi do you have to pay income taxes on your revenues from your RUclips channel
I hate to break it to everyone but that type of foam will crush over time and the slab will fall again, you need to use foam that has a lbs designation, I used a 5 lbs foam to shore up a soft wooden plywood deck to prevent having to tear it out, but you would need to find a way to inject it. You can hit it with hammer as hard as you want and it won't really do anything to it. If you hit cured spray foam with a hammer it will crush.
How much would that cost to do. Plus you have 4 small holes left in slab.
Easier and cheaper to lift and put some sand and cement in
Those cans are not cheap plus he used the expanding foam there is filler foam too that doesn’t expand later. But in the end they can’t take the weight of repeated traffic and might slide off the slab if the soil is clay
Couldn't read you last few comments because of the links you posted covering them up. Seemed to work good, I will try it.
Good job 👍prevented someone from tripping over using their Sandals
Interesting. Seen it on tv with structural foam - wouldn’t of guessed regular foam would have enough expansion power to lift a bit of slab.
Thank you for watching and commenting!
It’s the same stuff
Doesn't it just sink back down after time? I would just dig around it and put dirt under it to make sure it stays level forever. Seems like extra cost and alot of work.
@@gr8t1bobo Im wondering about that as well....
@@gr8t1bobo it wouldn't sink back down unless the sub-base fails again. But you could do what you said you just wouldn't want to use dirt, you'd want to use gravel.
What is that blue thing blurred out on the left is that an air nozzel fitting for ???
Get a sledge hammer take out sunken slab. Buy 4 -6 bags of 80 pound redi mix frame it and re pour it for Christ sakes.
That was freaking awesome.
Pry bar... what a waste of time. Google is your friend
When it comes up through the cracks and sides, let it dry all the way and it'll chunk off clean. Do not wipe it while still drying. Also make sure to get the kind that expands. Few tips if anyone is going to try this. Looks good!
You get that stuff on your hands when it's wet you look like you've been digging around in a dirty butthole for about a week.
@@SuperSummit123 Hahaha! This is true. I learned that the hard way. It's a bitch trying to clean it off your hands.
LOL I don't believe they make a non expanding foam like this in a can! It wouldn't make any sense!
@bradcliff7099 yes they do. They make a very low expanding foam for windows and doors so it doesn't bind the jam up and lock em in place. There's high expanding, landscape for ponds, fire retardedant, bug retardedant, big gap filler. There's lots buddy, i so this shit for a living. If you get the shit the windows it won't expand at all under pressure must be in atmosphere pressure to expand what little it does
@cthunter41 Yeah ok I see where you got me on this, but seriously if anyone goes and buys the very low expanding kind, when they know exactly what they are attempting to lift, says to me they don't understand what the different degrees of expansion can do or will do, they really have no business taking on something like this. I'm a truck driver of 30 years and no good at electrical wiring, so I leave it to the electricians. Really my comment was mainly in humor as in I was getting at its kind of common knowledge when buying a can of this that there is an expectation of expansion. No harm no fouls!
Alternatively, 2 pry bars, 1 flat shovel, a bag of sand, & a bag of gravel. (Edit: some sort of blocking [2] for leverage) But this is definitely some big brain thinking, foam is amazingly versatile in application. I have used it as a seal
No way, seriously? It'd be so much easier just to bust it up and lay a new slab than do that. You'd have to lift the whole damn thing up just to get the gravel and sand underneath it, and then struggle getting at level again. That's ridiculous.
@@mikeygee4564 sure if it was bigger than a 3x3 slab. But this is just fixing sidewalk slabs, why go through all that labor and expense, plus you don't have to fiddle with finishing the surface of a new slab to match the rest. Have you worked concrete before? If you have and this is your suggestion then you must be a masochist. However, on a more positive note your suggestion WOULD add longer life to the section. (Edit: I have never had to struggle to level ANYTHING.)
@@mikeygee4564 you obviously don't work with concrete. Let's all sing it together Macho Macho macho man I want to be a macho Macho Man.
@@FarmerFpv nah you're right. I had enough sense to get educated and make a much better, and more lucrative, living with my noggin. I have worked concrete a decent amount for my own projects, and that's where my experience and input came from, and it sounds like I may have been wrong compared to you guys who slug gray mud for a living. My apologies, and I'll take your word for it. But it's still nice knowing I'm wrong and can pay an ass like you to do it for me for what I make in an hour. If you're nice, I'll by you beer and dinner too. I may even let you eat on the porch. (I kid, I kid - I'm not really this much of a pretentious dick, but it's fun poking at twats that surge on the simple thing they know, in an asshole manner). In all seriousness, I greatly respect your craft. I certainly can't do it as well as you.
@@JC-of2nm fair enough. I don't do it for a living so I'll take your word for it. IME, I've struggled quite a bit getting a slab level after all that work just getting it up (that's what she said). but cheers to ya for knowing what your doing and doing it well.
Doing some loose math spray foam costs approx 7-10 dollars per can plus the hammer drill and bits at ? IDK 300+/-. Compared to a shovel, some dirt and 15min of your time.
If you can lift a slab, Level & recompact, then replace, in 15 minutes, you lie.
Like any of us want to be moving around over 100lbs of cement block.
@@72Dexter72Manley72 There's a new tool called a "lever" so you can use a scrap pipe and a brick for a "Fulcrum" and life one end of the block, level dirt and lower block back down. I put in parentheses the two new words you never heard of so you can research how this complicated tool works!
@@mrdanger4851 Lol, You're the same person who can level the ground and tamp the dirt down underneath that concrete block "" In 15 minutes "". Lol
How about doing all that in 15 minutes. And stop looking like the ass you are. Lol 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤷🏾♂️.
Lol
There’s services that actually do this for driveways.
Where do you think you got the idea from?
Yeah but who wants to spend $2,500 on a job that he just spent $100 on
@@brandon11267 Are you certain they charge that much for a sidewalk? For $2500, a new sidewalk can be poured.
@@brandon11267 and it was done poorly didn't even fix the problem, lasts all of 3 weeks and provides no guarantee
Trial and error, you learn and you succeed. This kind of project is very smart to do, especially that you haven't called a company or contracter to do the work. Good job.
Thanks for the kind words!
Now now you have a huge wet sponge under your slab
I did this and used 100 cans, I'm now stuck in orbit unable to return
I can’t. This tickled my soul
😂😆😂😆😂
.
You might be able to climb back down the column like a bean stock. Just leave the giant's possessions alone. 🤪
😂😂😂
the method I used was to build a jig out of wood and put a single lift point hole in the lower slab and use a car jack to lift the slab up to level ...then drill 7-8 holes and fill with low expansion foam to fill the void. that way it won't lift it up too much but still fill the void.
Lifted half an inch the other way? Oof it probably looks the same as it did to start just reversed. 🤣
This actually does work. My leg. Cement square on my frount step. Was wobbly and unleveled. I used 3 cans and it set back up where it was suppose too be. I did one can at a time in different area let it sit for 1-2 hrs did another. My landlord thought I was nuts!! But it worked.
Thank you for sharing! I plan to have updates on how the concrete slabs have been holding up!
So I am curious how long it stays level
How many ants harmed in the making of this video?
Wow, just wow. I was about to pay someone to come do this for lots of money. Giving this a try today, thanks man! This deserves more views and thumbs up votes!
Did it work for you????
Yes! Please be sure to keep the rest of us posted....
@@lewisgeer1994my neighbor tried this by drilling three holes, it cracked the concrete to the edges after the foam went in. Worth a try I guess though
@@skeezix8156 Thank you for watching and commenting!
Since it's to high now- he's liable for Trips
He did work so he can be sued
Just saying.... A 6 foot pry bar under the slab would lift it better so your foam would expand to fill the gap instead of squirting out. a couple of rocks to act as fulcrums and wedges to help with twist as well
Exactly!! You stole my reply.
Not really, the foam is acting under pressure therefore distribution the overall Youngs Modulus creating a uniform pressure. This will last much longer lifting with a crow bar.
Mine is not where I could get a bar under.
This is stupid take a block of wood like you said a big pry bar and some dirt but also you have to look at the condition that's not cracked
@@Hitngan I 100% agree. As the foam starts to lift the slab, it opens up free space underneath the entire slab which more foam rushes in to fill. It’s actually quite genius how this works and in the end, the force distribution is absolutely perfect, far better than even tamping a layer of gravel would provide because you would NEVER get the compaction of the underlying material and the flatness to perfectly match up with the flatness of the slab. This is quite brilliant.
So ... drilling to the Earth's core with that bit, eh?
But if he had struck oil, he'd be rich. 💲💲💲💰💰💰
@@David_K_pi But if he hit propane 🤑🤣.
@@brettblack7049 that’s how to lift concrete by a different method in another video...
@@waggtech8793 I wanna see that video lol.
When I worked for a sign company we were augering a hole 3' wide by 6 ft deep, we hit an underground 3 phase line, the auger cut thru one phase and into another, huge blue ball of flame. While it was neat, I literally almost died as I was leaning on the auger truck(if it wouldn't have crossed phases), I gave my 2 weeks later that day.
You know, they do sell shorter bits.
You need the space for the filler.
Concrete is kinda heavy.
You know they sell shovels. Those blocks are so small he could've lifted them up and just put dirt underneath. SMH.
@@roberto3262 From 0:02-0:08 We can clearly see that after the first short walkway block, the next two blocks are much longer.
I'll drill and use the spray foam any day for that project.
@@72Dexter72Manley72 then what? In a year or two you've got a ton of spray foam that's underneath them when the settle in deeper. You're not going to get more foam underneath the foam that's in there. That's for sure. Then you have to dig out foam and dirt next time. Yikes!
Also, there's no stopping that foam on e it starts expanding. What do you do if it doesn't lifet enough. Same problem. Or if it lifts too much? Lifts higher than the next one that you're trying to match? Same problem.
It doesn't seems very fail safe to me I guess.
Well, I'll be dipped!
It looks like you made the same mistake I did with the drill bit. That's an SDS bit. It's for an SDS hammer drill. It looks like you have a regular hammer drill. That's why your bit is wobbly, but it seemed to work.
I bet that foam wasnt intended to lift items and just fill in little areas around a window.....but I'd bet if you have enough cans you could probably get it up a little. I keep taking this little blue pill to help me but nothing so far. 🧐
Or u could just throw some spacers under the slab... Just saying
Definitely worth it to buy the great stuff foam gun saves a lot of hassle on cleanup, if you turn the vacuum to blow while you're drilling it blows out the dust and sends the drill into hyper speed. Just tips
Just the tips? Lol
@@michaelbidwell4210 just the tip... Just the tip 🦙
And nothing but the tip, so help me God.
What does it look like 6 months later? Does the foam collapse back down?
Yes. After a week it would. It isnt true closed cell foam. Epic waste of time and money. A pry bar and 20 mins will do it.. ...
@@richardlangil5798 but what would you fill it with? Gravel, sand, or a concrete slurry?
Pry it up. Level the ground. Lay it back down.
Did it for my walkway with larger stones than that. Yse leverage and swing the stones to the side
100% sure it’s back to where it was
tried this and it all just cam back out the hole
Just park you car on it overnight, it will be back to square one over night.
No.
Now gotta go back and put 2 cans under the other slab. Terrible job friend
btw.. I apply my 'baking' tip to doing this. Spray pam NON stick to the pan or apply your choice of butter or applesauce and THEN.. A 'small' amount of the DRY MIX, dusting the pan, to prevent sticking... IN this case.. LEAVE THE CONCRETE DUST, in place, anywhere the foam 'may' touch the concrete. Why? To prevent 'sticking' and for EASY clean up, once dried. "Should", come right up.. and then, allow for however you wish to clean further. My opinion. Works the same way on siding. The foam, will adhere to the grime / dust / dirt / mold / mildew, and NOT your siding, IF you don't clean it 1st. In my experience.
WHO'S gonna tell him ???? That foam breaks down and the sidewalk will be right back where it started LOL . This is like the idiots that think the foam will make tires, non-flat tires . LOL
How is this holding up after 2 years?
Thanks for following up! This is still holding up pretty well.
Why is the sidewalk so thick! 😜
They do the same thing at a much larger scale to fix concrete roads.
Maybe use a longer bit next time.
Pretty cool. 👍
There are all kinds of applications for foam.
Highway and freeway on and off-ramps, airport runways, buildings.
Oh and don't forget car bumpers with plastic over them 🤣
I think those bottles cost more then 4 bags of cement
I'd take drilling a couple holes and spraying some foam in over what ever he's supposed to do with 4 bags of cement lol them turds are heavy.
Sure, totally cheaper. Assuming you already have a jackhammer, aggregate, a tamp, some 2x4’s ($7ea right now), wood stakes, a releasing agent, a wheelbarrow, hoe/shovel, the concrete bags, float & edge trowels, expansion joints & sealer laying around. Smh
@@stevenweede7184 Don't forget the 10 hours of labor and cure time!
'than'
Dumbest statement ever
Why not just dig beside the slab and use a jack to jack it up. Then pour some concrete or fill in the dirt under it.
This does not work
Are those insects 🐜 going to die underneath? 😟😟😟
Pretty cool. How long will it last though ? Especially in winter?
Um put dirt under it maybe??
If I tried this I am certain it would just crack my concrete.
I use the foam when installing a tub so that it doesn't give and flex. I used to put a bag of concrete under them, but the foam is easier and works well.
Just be sure to go a little at a time and make sure the tub is filled with water or it will lift it and cause damage.
That's a nice trick on the sidewalk too.
Never thought of that on tubs! Thanks bro I hate mudding tubs this sounds way quicker..👍
@@jeremyeaston3105 Just don't overdo it, and be sure to fill the tub with water.
@@theprophetez1357 I was a plumber 30 years, I started using it when I realized all the whirlpools we're being foamed.
Your right way way nicer than concrete on this cheap fiberglass / acrylic tubs. Better on sound than mudding them too.
On new construction you gotta fill the tubs for inspection, so I'd fill them then go around and foam them in, was a real time and mess saver. Barely costs more then setting in Crete as well.
@@TheAIRspace Yep I find it to have lots of advantages.
You know I can't figure out why they call plumbers plumbers, or why they call carpenters carpenters. After all it is carpenters that have to keep things plumb, and plumbers sometimes cause damage that takes a carpenter to fix. So I think a name reversal is in order. 😃😁.
Keep up the good work AIR space. 👍
@@theprophetez1357 well 7 ruptured discs later, Im out of that whole plumbing gig, but its all good. I paint stuff for people create art and make youtube videos about art now.
And dabble in building science and remodel my own place slowly but surely.
Personally Instead of using canned foam, id get a closed cell Kit (for less money overall) for raising a slab like this gentleman did. There is valid concerns about the open cell trapping water and heaving from frost as mentioned. But on a tub the cans are awesome, and I used TONS of the fireblock foam after it came out where I was doing apartment fire restoration work for a few years.
As for causing damage. We used to say the only thing worse than termites for your house are plumbers electricians and hvac techs :) Cause a bad one can cut up a lot of stuff that don't need to be :)
Hi uncle tim
I thought the foam keeps expanding as it dries... do you have an updated picture or video to show how level it is now after curing? Did it raise too high? Thanks for sharing the video, I'm going to try it
Hi, thank you for asking. It did raise 0.5-1" higher than expected. Should use less than 4 cans of foam, instead. Will do a follow-up video on this soon.
@@friendnfamily9053 Can't wait for that follow up video. Really enjoyed this one for we sure have plenty of u leveling ourselves...
Would ot be better to block it up first then foam ...?
@@chevman46 Maybe that would be like lifting you car up with a large pry bar and then putting the jack under it? That's the purpose of the foam, to lift the slab (which is usually very heavy) and while lifting the slab, the foam is also compressed giving support under the slab. If you lift it first, then by the time the foam expands, it will seriously raise the slab even higher. IMHO JS
Well that piece of cement won't freeze
I'm prepared my slab by lifting 1" before applying foam....I'm going to take this next slowly.
I never suspected the foam would over lift...
Wish me luck..
Many years thinking how to do this ..
The day has arrived.
No broken slab...ty
You had the money to buy a case of spray foam but didn’t have a level?
A sidewalk that dirty should be sent farther down from my eyes ...not up.
One day you might hit a water service or sewer line drilling that deep with those masonary bits...just something to think about said the plumber while no one was listening
I'd hope the lines wouldn't be burned only a few inches below the slab.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists i would too, im a plumbing contractor in fl and have seen things like that
@@mistergarrett8175 I know cable and telephone aren't buried deep but gas, electric, sewage, and potable water should be much deeper.
@@Guillotines_For_Globalists in Florida most domestic water services from the meter to the house are supposed to be buried around 12-14" deep but I have seen many buried less than that and sewer lines usually are buried around that same depth where it exits the house then slopes about a eighth to a quarter inch per foot til you reach the sewer lateral near the street or rear property line( wherever the easement/right of way happens to run in that area)
I think ya got a long enough bit... what, ya drillin to china?? 🤣🤣
So glad I watched this. My slab was about 0.5 in low as well. Tripping hazard. Used four cans instead of six. It is almost perfect. Amazed at the foam coming from the expansion joints.
lol.. they make LONGER DRILL BITS? Call.. BEFORE - YOU - drill.. six feet down! lol. Putting in a fence with that post hole drill? (good times - great idea!) Just being funny..
6 cans x $4 = $24 cost, assuming drill and bit were already there. Versus $300-500 for a company to do the work, if no slabs removed and reported.
Thank you for watching and commenting!
I have a 4' long pool walk that is faced with pool edge coping and the Pro's wanted $2700 to lift it 1/2" to line coping back up on adjacent slabs and coping. I will try this instead!
Won't last long-term
you realize you spend 60 dollars in foam, with a slash hammer, concrete blade and 3 bag of cement would have been fixed for good but still interesting
A nice honest video. Did the thing - mistake made - tip at end of video to avoid the mistake. Didn't hide mistake and pretended it all worked out, leaving viewers to think "this is so easy... nothing can go wrong".
Good video of the reality and caution of doing this. Thank you for posting 👍👍👍
@@omarpopioco9997 Thank you!
can I use this method to lift my wife's breasts?
I did mine. Worked great. Quick project. Thanks for this!
Thanks for sharing!
did it hold up after a year?
I would probably do this and blow it all out the side, going to give it a shot anyway. Thanks for sharing.
Just because it's a unique way..doesn't mean it's the easiest nor best 🤫🤣
Boys, don't try this while.your mothers back is turned
WOW OUTSTANDING VIDEO. This is truly genius 👏, thank you for the great advice that I will use in the future. OUTSTANDING.
Why does this guy drill like the sidewalk is 18 inches deep
Thank you for watching and asking! Actually, we paid ~$1,200 for these concrete slabs lifted after we bought the house, and the slabs sunk back after ~1.5 years. A 6" overall length bit couldn't get through these 4 - 5" thick slabs + the material the concrete leveling company injected under them 4 years ago.
@@friendnfamily9053 makes sense
Or ya know. A crobar and a bag of sand.
Ell Ooh Ell
And how much did 6 canscost compared to lifting the slab and putting sand ect under
Have you ever tried to lift a slab of concrete that is roughly 5 ft by 5 ft and 4 to 6 in thick or thicker? So many people think of this but have never tried it for themselves and realize it rarely works.
Great idea but use some leverage(crowbar) to help it hit flush out with the higher one
A little piece of grit or what have you will stop the foam from raising it
At 2:57, Ant comes strolling by, freaks out! Aaaaaaaahhhh! The world is ending!