The really helped - I always removed the whole assembly which made getting the anti rattle clips on much harder - your way is much easier and saved me a bunch of time - thanks!
Thanks for the video! I haven't changed a pair of breaks since my mom's old '88 volvo 20 years ago, it was a great reminder and well shot so everything was easy to see and note. Appreciate you taking the time, and making it. Just finished changing my 2013 Honda CR-V breaks and it went pretty smooth.
Thanks for the video Dan. Something to consider. My mechanic buddies told me to NEVER push the break fluid from the caliper back up into the system. The fluid in the caliper is dirty, contaminated with water, and has been thermocycled 50,000 times. Crack the bleeder and push it out. Then replace it up top. They have seen crazy damage to ABS systems with dirty fluid getting compressed back in.
If your brake fluid in the caliper is contaminated with water, you have issues with the caliper itself and they should be replaced. It’s a closed system that shouldn’t be getting any water into it. The caliper compresses and decompresses each time you push and release the brake. All you’re doing is decompressing it fully. The issue with doing that is a lot of guys damage the rubber boot in the caliper by doing so. Using this method, damaging the caliper will likely be avoided unless the caliper is already worn out.
Yes its a closed system in perfect conditions. Peoples vehicles are never perfect and any serious mechanic does not push fluid from the caliper back up into the break system. Its a really easy way to grenade your ABS system. @@Messerwon
My factory pads lasted 85,000 miles (results will vary depending on your type of driving environment)... If they suddenly start screeching when you brake that is the metal indicator strip rubbing on the metal rotor telling you it's time to replace them ASAP...
Excellent tip on how to push the piston back into the caliper. I’ve always removed it and used a C clamp to compress it. Your method is much better.
Nice,clean, detailed instruction. Well done, lit well, in focus, no distractions.
Simple instructions easy to understand. Great camera and lighting as well. Thanks.
The really helped - I always removed the whole assembly which made getting the anti rattle clips on much harder - your way is much easier and saved me a bunch of time - thanks!
Thanks for the video! I haven't changed a pair of breaks since my mom's old '88 volvo 20 years ago, it was a great reminder and well shot so everything was easy to see and note. Appreciate you taking the time, and making it. Just finished changing my 2013 Honda CR-V breaks and it went pretty smooth.
Thanks Dan. Appreciate the straight forward description for procedure. Thumbs up.
Thank you for showing us so easy and simple way you are the best.
Thanks for the video Dan. Something to consider. My mechanic buddies told me to NEVER push the break fluid from the caliper back up into the system. The fluid in the caliper is dirty, contaminated with water, and has been thermocycled 50,000 times. Crack the bleeder and push it out. Then replace it up top. They have seen crazy damage to ABS systems with dirty fluid getting compressed back in.
If your brake fluid in the caliper is contaminated with water, you have issues with the caliper itself and they should be replaced. It’s a closed system that shouldn’t be getting any water into it. The caliper compresses and decompresses each time you push and release the brake. All you’re doing is decompressing it fully. The issue with doing that is a lot of guys damage the rubber boot in the caliper by doing so. Using this method, damaging the caliper will likely be avoided unless the caliper is already worn out.
Yes its a closed system in perfect conditions. Peoples vehicles are never perfect and any serious mechanic does not push fluid from the caliper back up into the break system. Its a really easy way to grenade your ABS system. @@Messerwon
thank you. THis was the best video I have watched on Crv brake change.
Thank you for taking your time and posting! I got mine taken care because your great video!
Awesome clarity in teaching!
Nice job and detailed information. 16 CRV over 83km, plan to replace front brake pad next year
Thank u for the vid. Is re-surfacing the rotor a must when you change the break pads?
Great
Video done the job on my crv
Thanks Dan!
Im doing this this week. Great, thank you so much. Im also changing rotors. How must torke are the braked bolts?
Thank you for posting this!
Well done video. Helps much. Thanks
I liked the video always good to be refreshed.
Good video, nicely detailed. thanks
Where did you position the trolley jack?
Great video, thank you.
My 2014 Honda CRV has a double piston caliper. Seems to be bigger, do you think the torque specs are the same?
Nice vid. Thanks!
You’re welcome!
Take care,
Dan the Fix it Man
Do you have the car in neutral when changing the pads?
Thanks!
Good job. Thanks
After how many miles, you changed pads?
My factory pads lasted 85,000 miles (results will vary depending on your type of driving environment)... If they suddenly start screeching when you brake that is the metal indicator strip rubbing on the metal rotor telling you it's time to replace them ASAP...