great tip on milling the chuck. i've had an oversize chuck for years thinking someday i'll pick up a larger surface grinder,but i think your approach will work for me as well. thanks for another great video tom.
Great info Tom. I never knew any of this when I used to do this type of work, and I was always looking for thin shim stock to block in thinner parts when surface grinding. We always had problems with holding precision thicknesses on thin materials, and I think the the issue was our mag chucks. We were usually doing cylindrical grinding, or work on tool/cutter grinders, so it was never a problem we investigated much. If I ever have the luxury of a surface grinder, this will be great info!
I have had a very similar Suburban Tool magnetic chuck for years, actually much longer than I have had a grinder. I use it in the mill all the time. I think it is one of the handiest accessories for a mill. Everyone should try it. I have been using Johnson Paste Wax to protect the chuck surfaces, and the mill table, and a zillion other things around the shop. I will give the Frog Lube a try. Great vid. Thanks! Marc
Nice vise buy. Enjoyed learning about the magnetic chuck differences. Great glue story too. When I was a kid I ate some just for the hell of it. Candy is infinitely better tasting. Thanks for sharing.
I made a corrosion inhibitor with lubricate qualities years ago for this type work & as a black powder cleaner. it was a solution of GM top cylinder cleaner plus Kroil oil. worked wonderfully. looking forward to seeing your solution.
"clamps from Suburban are only $17, so why am I going to torture myself making them?" is a similar sentiment I remember having after about episode 12 of the Baby Bullet videos. Of course, now that the BB is finished, it really belongs in the MOMA in SFO. Hope I get to see it - maybe even fondle it w bit - when it's on the road show at Saunders open house. I just love your videos and get some much information from them. Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience.
Hey Tom, The thought that crossed my mind (carefully looking both ways to avoid being run over in the chaos) was a remote linkage. Mount a pivot for the lever somewhere on the right and run a rod to the chuck.
+Paul Compton Hey Paul, I actually called Suburban to get a dimension for the lever boss. It was not in their online specs and it would be a bit of a deal breaker if it stuck out much further. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
I used to use Eezox but it stinks to high heaven. I now use Frog Lube to wipe down all of my gun work. Smells like wintergreen, is non-toxic, and may be the best corrosion inhibitor on the market. Amazing stuff!
Is there such thing as a non-lubricating corrosion inhibitor? It seems like that would be ideal here. Thanks for the video! I have yet to dress the chuck on the surface/universal grinder I recently received, and I just cleaned the shop so this was great timing.
I've been using Frog Lube on my guns for several years. I was taught to heat the metal to get the Frog Lube into the pores then let it cool and wipe off the excess. It only takes a little heat, wife's blow drier works great. Don't tell her.
+Scott Elkins Hey Scott, She probably saw the greasy handprints on the dryer already. Frog lube and Hoppes. She can't miss it. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
+Abom79 Hey Adam, Its pretty awesome stuff. Check out this study. www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667 Frog lube comes out at the top of the heap. Talk to you soon, Tom
Man I love that grinder! You have such a good eye for quality Tom. I do wonder however whether relieving the chuck was strictly necessary, at least as it looked on camera. It looked to me that a freshly dressed wheel would be able to grind the chuck just fine it you went from front to back. When freshly dressed the wheel is flat across it and would grind a face flat right from the get go.
Hey Pete, Its really hard to get the chuck dead flat to very close limits unless you can come off it. As it was I probably did over twenty passes over the chuck to get it down in the .0001 range all over. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Great video and thank you so much. I am new to surface grinding and I was wondering were do you get your hand grinding rocks that you used to take the burs off and what grit do you use. Again thank you for your time and God bless.
Gotta love another 'Oxisim' - a little "smutz" on there. Something Marring Up The Z? = SMUTZ? Looking forward to this series Tom. It has a... certain magnetism to it. lol Cheers.
Just a heads up Tom, Frog Lube is mostly just coconut oil with some additives, cant use it up here in canada it just glues guns and stuff together in the winter
Tom, when one is machining a chuck like this with an endmill, as the cutting edges contacts the alternating poles, is there a feeling of an interrupted cut? due to the material alternation, or does it machine as though it was solid singular material?
Did you ever hear of a product called Fluid Film? It also is an outstanding corrosion preventative. It doesn't dry out and works well in humid environments.
+MrShobar There are iron fences in Ireland and Scotland that sheep rub against. The fences have been there for over a hundred years and the metal is bright where the sheep scratch themselves. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hello Tom, Whatever were you thinking of by Milling the excess away. I know that you were probably at a loss for something to do whilst waiting for the clamping bolts to arrive. But in the video you showed your concerns about not milling too much away in case you ever got a larger grinder, I think you took it down 0.015 ". Why did you not wait for the bolts to arrive, mount the Mag chuck on the grinder and Grind the surplus down only to say 0.002 " to 0.003" below the final surface finish. You only needed to just relieve the surface that could not be fully surface ground. The surplus was less than the width of the grinding wheel.It seems to me that you made hard work of the deal. That's what I would have done, far less work in the long run, especially if you buy a larger grinder, you would then have to grind away a lot more than 0.003". Other than that, no other comments other than keep up you good work and excellent video making. Best Wishes from Dave in England.
+Dave Ticehurst Hi Dave, The grinder will not reach the edges of the chuck. This is why I milled it. .015 should last quite a while without dismounting the chuck to recut the shoulders. If I get a larger grinder then It will have a much larger chuck as well. Good idea! Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Quick question: what type/grade stone would you recommend for this kind of use? The ones I have for blade sharpening seem like they are too coarse, except the ones I have that I wouldn't want to use for this (too expensive for this use). Thanks!
On the heavy metal mail call episode, he received an India stone from a viewer. I believe he mentioned the 'fine' grit was somewhere around 320. Worth looking at the episode for tho.
nickolaguez Thank you! I wish I had time to watch all of Tom's videos, as well as those of at least a couple dozen other creators. If I even tried to watch all that interest me I would never get anything else done!
+Jon Miller luckily at work, my actual productivity usually consists of about an hours worth of time. I go through about 30 gigs on RUclips alone Haha.
The wheel does not need to come off the edge to grind the chuck. Half the wheel is more than enough over travel so you did not need to knock off the edges.
Hi Tom, regarding the FrogLube at about 20:00, I thought that might be really good for those of us who have machine shops in our unheated garage, to keep the items in our tool boxes from sprouting little rust blooms over the winter from condensation and what not. Do you know where we can find further information on that or maybe you can do something on it in one of your Meatloaf episodes or something? The information on the "gun" channels seems to be pretty superstitious, like some say heat it some say don't, etc. I'd love to hear from someone who actually knows how it works and can reason about how to apply it to machine tools like Starrett squares and rules, surface guages, all the stuff that would break your heart to get a rust spot on :)
Hi Steve, Somebody did a corrosion study online that is worth looking at. He tested all the readily available stuff and Froglube came out on top. It was a well done study and had some surprising results. I posted a link in one of my videos but cannot remember which one. Search Froglube corrosion study and look for a guy with 2 x 2 squares of sheetmetal I think his name is DIY guy on one of the forums. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Tom , I may have missed something but why were you changing the chuck ? Thanks for the video , a yr. ago I didn't even know what a surface grinder was !
Did you lube the bottom of the chuck too? Because part of it is hanging out from the base plate of the grinder, and then did not receive any of the lube you put on the base plate.
Hi Tom, been awhile. Can you make a video on vise adjustment? There are 3 screw holes on the back of the movable jaw and have no idea what to do with them. What vise maintenance is there? I've looked everywhere and there is nothing on the subject! Hope all is well.. The Mini Machine Shop Dave
+Dave M there shouldn't be any adjustments on a vice. You just dial it in with a dial indicator once you bolt it down. The screws on your vice jaws probably hold the actual jaws on, for replacing them with soft jaws, or replacement hard jaws if they break.
+Chris Shaw I do know the center screw on the back tightens something in the movable jaw. If backed out the jaw moves left and right a lot. To tight and the jaw doesn't move at all so I just snug it. The 2 outer ones must do something and their not holding the jaws on...
I have seen the Magnetic Chucks in quite a few videos but still have no idea what the operating handle is for. Is it a means of releasing the magnetic force so that the workpiece can be removed? Sorry to reveal my ignorance like this but my curiosity wins out every time! Would someone kindly enlighten me?
Hi Gregor, Yes the lever operates a cam that moves the permanent magnets closer and away from the top clamping surface.It releases the holding force when operated. Thanks for the comment. Cheers, Tom
Hey Tom, I heard that ingesting that white paste glue that was around in kindergarten and grade school has been shown to stunt human growth. Just saying. ;)
And here I thought magnetic poles were at the ENDS of a magnetic "bar" and the "flux lines" go AROUND the "middle" of the magnets and travel "lengthwise" as they travel "end to end" from S to N and vice versa. Of course that's a magnetic "bar" magnetized with "polarity" artificially rather than a "permanent magnet" made from compacted "magnetic ore" made up of lots of little, tiny "magnets" that "orient" themselves "sideways" when formed into a "bar" to create a similar effect but one where if you put many of those bars "side by side" you end up "cancelling out" a lot of the "magnetism" because those "magnetic flux lines" STILL are "circular" and travel "around" the poles "end to end"..
Could you please tell me why you can’t go all the way to the edges you marked the inside of the wheel so that means the thickness of the wheel did reach to the edges so why can’t you just dress to the edges could you please tell me why
you can plunge down on your outer edge and be accurate and feed inwards/outwards. now will you be grinding magnet off or on? consider when the magnet is off please, why? because the magnetic polls will be just under the surface pulling it down. people sometimes say grind with it on because I use it on, this is false because the magnetic field reaches above the magnet surface not pulling it down. fast feed in/out or slow? I recommend extremely fast feed in order to keep the magnet cool and not suck it up, without coolent and a course wheel. I dress my magnet 3 times year and it's always 100% flat indicated off the spindle with a tenths brown and sharp finger indicator.
I must be getting old and losing what little sense of humour I may have had but I could not see the joke, it is April 1st isn't it or are you letting the side down this year? ATB c
+MrShobar I told I was getting old and as an extra, befuddled. Also, you must forgive any errors, English is not my native tongue that privilege belongs to Gibberish.
+Chris Stephens Sometime my mind is jibberish like talking to a collegue who is having obvious problems his own making or the worst someone else" work given to my shift. to get done the programming of a new part unproven with major problems. I get a lot is scared people trying to do their best wishing a solution after fighting it until they reach out. That happens to me also . It is all pert of the job if they want best progress Promote me and support me. I will not give up on anyone under my care even if there is something I definitely do not like.
great tip on milling the chuck. i've had an oversize chuck for years thinking someday i'll pick up a larger surface grinder,but i think your approach will work for me as well. thanks for another great video tom.
Great info Tom. I never knew any of this when I used to do this type of work, and I was always looking for thin shim stock to block in thinner parts when surface grinding. We always had problems with holding precision thicknesses on thin materials, and I think the the issue was our mag chucks. We were usually doing cylindrical grinding, or work on tool/cutter grinders, so it was never a problem we investigated much. If I ever have the luxury of a surface grinder, this will be great info!
Love your detail and explanation. Thanks Tom
Sitting in the parking lot @ work .I always like your videos and shop tips Thanks Tom
Great videos Tom, I always learn something. Thanks for taking the time to make them.
As always, very interesting video. Much appreciate the valuable inclusion of hand working of details. Many thanks, Happy April 1st!
Neat video Tom. Chuck was a very good find. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Tom
Another great informative video, just love them and keep them coming.
Appreciate you sharing this, i always learn a lot. Thanks Tom!
I have had a very similar Suburban Tool magnetic chuck for years, actually much longer than I have had a grinder. I use it in the mill all the time. I think it is one of the handiest accessories for a mill. Everyone should try it. I have been using Johnson Paste Wax to protect the chuck surfaces, and the mill table, and a zillion other things around the shop. I will give the Frog Lube a try.
Great vid.
Thanks!
Marc
Nice vise buy. Enjoyed learning about the magnetic chuck differences. Great glue story too. When I was a kid I ate some just for the hell of it. Candy is infinitely better tasting. Thanks for sharing.
Upstickers..... a word that has entered my vocabulary and actually made it into a Sunday school lesson!
I made a corrosion inhibitor with lubricate qualities years ago for this type work & as a black powder cleaner. it was a solution of GM top cylinder cleaner plus Kroil oil. worked wonderfully. looking forward to seeing your solution.
Looks good Tom.
Very nice looking chuck Tom . Thumbs up !
Great video/instruction!! Keep flying high my seagull buddy!
"clamps from Suburban are only $17, so why am I going to torture myself making them?" is a similar sentiment I remember having after about episode 12 of the Baby Bullet videos. Of course, now that the BB is finished, it really belongs in the MOMA in SFO. Hope I get to see it - maybe even fondle it w bit - when it's on the road show at Saunders open house. I just love your videos and get some much information from them. Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience.
+Best Services Hey Best,
Touche! I ended up making them anyway. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
These are things I know little about, but it's fun to see what's going on in the shop.
Did the same thing length wise on my own chuck, works fine....
Filing for the win!
Nice video Tom, thanks enjoyed
tom looking good.
As long as you're happy. That's the important thing.
I am going to have to keep a close eye out for when you and Chuck B. are flying.
Hey Tom,
The thought that crossed my mind (carefully looking both ways to avoid being run over in the chaos) was a remote linkage. Mount a pivot for the lever somewhere on the right and run a rod to the chuck.
+Paul Compton Hey Paul,
I actually called Suburban to get a dimension for the lever boss. It was not in their online specs and it would be a bit of a deal breaker if it stuck out much further. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I used to use Eezox but it stinks to high heaven. I now use Frog Lube to wipe down all of my gun work. Smells like wintergreen, is non-toxic, and may be the best corrosion inhibitor on the market. Amazing stuff!
great info thanks a mil spec product called acf 50 is a good anti corrosion made for aviation industry
Is there such thing as a non-lubricating corrosion inhibitor? It seems like that would be ideal here.
Thanks for the video! I have yet to dress the chuck on the surface/universal grinder I recently received, and I just cleaned the shop so this was great timing.
I've been using Frog Lube on my guns for several years. I was taught to heat the metal to get the Frog Lube into the pores then
let it cool and wipe off the excess. It only takes a little heat, wife's blow drier works great. Don't tell her.
+Scott Elkins Hey Scott,
She probably saw the greasy handprints on the dryer already. Frog lube and Hoppes. She can't miss it. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Will you product be called Ox-Snot?
Cool info Tom. Where do you buy that Frog Lube? Is it good for protecting tools from corrosion?
Adam you can get frog lube at gun stores
+jeremy kohler Oh My some people believe in the 2nd amendment on here besides me? Cool. Gun screwdriver sets are really great.
+Abom79 Hey Adam,
Its pretty awesome stuff. Check out this study. www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667 Frog lube comes out at the top of the heap.
Talk to you soon,
Tom
It ain't real machienin' 'till Tom hits it with a file.
Would you Tom prefer a Bridgeport to the manual mill you have now if you had your free pick of each with all the features you want?
Not to be confused with Seagal mode where you beat everyone up with sick roundhouse kicks
Man I love that grinder! You have such a good eye for quality Tom.
I do wonder however whether relieving the chuck was strictly necessary, at least as it looked on camera. It looked to me that a freshly dressed wheel would be able to grind the chuck just fine it you went from front to back. When freshly dressed the wheel is flat across it and would grind a face flat right from the get go.
Hey Pete,
Its really hard to get the chuck dead flat to very close limits unless you can come off it. As it was I probably did over twenty passes over the chuck to get it down in the .0001 range all over. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Great video and thank you so much. I am new to surface grinding and I was wondering were do you get your hand grinding rocks that you used to take the burs off and what grit do you use. Again thank you for your time and God bless.
Gotta love another 'Oxisim' - a little "smutz" on there.
Something Marring Up The Z? = SMUTZ?
Looking forward to this series Tom. It has a... certain magnetism to it. lol Cheers.
try Lanolin/ wool grease for anti corrosion. It has promise for some applications.
Just a heads up Tom, Frog Lube is mostly just coconut oil with some additives, cant use it up here in canada it just glues guns and stuff together in the winter
Hi Memorable,
I knew it was edible. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, when one is machining a chuck like this with an endmill, as the cutting edges contacts the alternating poles, is there a feeling of an interrupted cut? due to the material alternation, or does it machine as though it was solid singular material?
Did you ever hear of a product called Fluid Film? It also is an outstanding corrosion preventative. It doesn't dry out and works well in humid environments.
Lanolin also works as a good rust preventative.
+MrShobar But think of all the little Lanos that have to be killed to make it! :D
+MrShobar There are iron fences in Ireland and Scotland that sheep rub against. The fences have been there for over a hundred years and the metal is bright where the sheep scratch themselves. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, any chance of more tools tested to breaking point? such as a few sockets cheap to decent?
cool
Are you gonna put your 6x10” mag chuck on a 12x24”?
Put a sheet of paper over it with some metal filings to show the mag fields
You ever smell the Mothers Gold paste wax? Tasty smellin stuff too.. :-)
Well thats another bit of info for the day I get a grinder..
Colin :-)
Hello Tom, Whatever were you thinking of by Milling the excess away. I know that you were probably at a loss for something to do whilst waiting for the clamping bolts to arrive. But in the video you showed your concerns about not milling too much away in case you ever got a larger grinder, I think you took it down 0.015 ". Why did you not wait for the bolts to arrive, mount the Mag chuck on the grinder and Grind the surplus down only to say 0.002 " to 0.003" below the final surface finish. You only needed to just relieve the surface that could not be fully surface ground. The surplus was less than the width of the grinding wheel.It seems to me that you made hard work of the deal. That's what I would have done, far less work in the long run, especially if you buy a larger grinder, you would then have to grind away a lot more than 0.003". Other than that, no other comments other than keep up you good work and excellent video making. Best Wishes from Dave in England.
+Dave Ticehurst Hi Dave,
The grinder will not reach the edges of the chuck. This is why I milled it. .015 should last quite a while without dismounting the chuck to recut the shoulders. If I get a larger grinder then It will have a much larger chuck as well. Good idea! Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Quick question: what type/grade stone would you recommend for this kind of use? The ones I have for blade sharpening seem like they are too coarse, except the ones I have that I wouldn't want to use for this (too expensive for this use). Thanks!
On the heavy metal mail call episode, he received an India stone from a viewer. I believe he mentioned the 'fine' grit was somewhere around 320. Worth looking at the episode for tho.
nickolaguez Thank you! I wish I had time to watch all of Tom's videos, as well as those of at least a couple dozen other creators. If I even tried to watch all that interest me I would never get anything else done!
+Jon Miller luckily at work, my actual productivity usually consists of about an hours worth of time. I go through about 30 gigs on RUclips alone Haha.
The wheel does not need to come off the edge to grind the chuck. Half the wheel is more than enough over travel so you did not need to knock off the edges.
Put a wider wheel on your surface grinder and eliminate dead spots. 😉
Hi Tom, regarding the FrogLube at about 20:00, I thought that might be really good for those of us who have machine shops in our unheated garage, to keep the items in our tool boxes from sprouting little rust blooms over the winter from condensation and what not. Do you know where we can find further information on that or maybe you can do something on it in one of your Meatloaf episodes or something? The information on the "gun" channels seems to be pretty superstitious, like some say heat it some say don't, etc. I'd love to hear from someone who actually knows how it works and can reason about how to apply it to machine tools like Starrett squares and rules, surface guages, all the stuff that would break your heart to get a rust spot on :)
Hi Steve,
Somebody did a corrosion study online that is worth looking at. He tested all the readily available stuff and Froglube came out on top. It was a well done study and had some surprising results. I posted a link in one of my videos but cannot remember which one. Search Froglube corrosion study and look for a guy with 2 x 2 squares of sheetmetal I think his name is DIY guy on one of the forums. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom , I may have missed something but why were you changing the chuck ? Thanks for the video , a yr. ago I didn't even know what a surface grinder was !
+John Fry The one he took off was shorter than the travel of the grinder. Now he can use all the available grind area.
+Kurt Armbrust Thankyou , I got that but didn't realize that was the reason for the change out .
Did you lube the bottom of the chuck too? Because part of it is hanging out from the base plate of the grinder, and then did not receive any of the lube you put on the base plate.
+Olivier Nicole Hi Olivier,
Yes I lubed both surfaces. You have a sharp eye. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom, been awhile. Can you make a video on vise adjustment? There are 3 screw holes on the back of the movable jaw and have no idea what to do with them. What vise maintenance is there? I've looked everywhere and there is nothing on the subject! Hope all is well.. The Mini Machine Shop Dave
+Dave M there shouldn't be any adjustments on a vice.
You just dial it in with a dial indicator once you bolt it down.
The screws on your vice jaws probably hold the actual jaws on, for replacing them with soft jaws, or replacement hard jaws if they break.
+Chris Shaw I do know the center screw on the back tightens something in the movable jaw. If backed out the jaw moves left and right a lot. To tight and the jaw doesn't move at all so I just snug it. The 2 outer ones must do something and their not holding the jaws on...
Dave M This cant be a machine vice. what kind of vice is it ?
Is there a manufacturer, or do you have a pic?
+Dave M Hi Dave,
Is it a Kurt type machine vise? Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
I have seen the Magnetic Chucks in quite a few videos but still have no idea what the operating handle is for.
Is it a means of releasing the magnetic force so that the workpiece can be removed?
Sorry to reveal my ignorance like this but my curiosity wins out every time!
Would someone kindly enlighten me?
Hi Gregor,
Yes the lever operates a cam that moves the permanent magnets closer and away from the top clamping surface.It releases the holding force when operated. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Tom, LPS 3 is great for long term rust protection, or maybe you're not fond of the scent. Semi-dries into a waxy film.
Hey Tom,
I heard that ingesting that white paste glue that was around in kindergarten and grade school has been shown to stunt human growth. Just saying. ;)
+Joseph P. Polnaszek causes baldness too
And here I thought magnetic poles were at the ENDS of a magnetic "bar" and the "flux lines" go AROUND the "middle" of the magnets and travel "lengthwise" as they travel "end to end" from S to N and vice versa. Of course that's a magnetic "bar" magnetized with "polarity" artificially rather than a "permanent magnet" made from compacted "magnetic ore" made up of lots of little, tiny "magnets" that "orient" themselves "sideways" when formed into a "bar" to create a similar effect but one where if you put many of those bars "side by side" you end up "cancelling out" a lot of the "magnetism" because those "magnetic flux lines" STILL are "circular" and travel "around" the poles "end to end"..
got clearance, clarence
Rub it on a micro flat. Shinny spots are high.
ox lube in a tube or spray can?
+Jerry Schram Hey Jerry,
Tube and bottle. Three viscosity's. Light, medium, heavy. The name is Weaselsnot. Thanks for the comment.
Cheers,
Tom
Could you please tell me why you can’t go all the way to the edges you marked the inside of the wheel so that means the thickness of the wheel did reach to the edges so why can’t you just dress to the edges could you please tell me why
you can plunge down on your outer edge and be accurate and feed inwards/outwards.
now will you be grinding magnet off or on?
consider when the magnet is off please, why? because the magnetic polls will be just under the surface pulling it down.
people sometimes say grind with it on because I use it on, this is false because the magnetic field reaches above the magnet surface not pulling it down.
fast feed in/out or slow?
I recommend extremely fast feed in order to keep the magnet cool and not suck it up, without coolent and a course wheel.
I dress my magnet 3 times year and it's always 100% flat indicated off the spindle with a tenths brown and sharp finger indicator.
the fast in/out feed will require a few passes.
I always bingo dab the magnet and pick up the high spot going down .0002 of an inch at a time.
Couldn't dress the chuck with a wider wheel or sandwich (safety alert!) two wheels on the hub?
He’ll make the clamps, he just doesn’t know it yet. We won’t get to see it though.
I don't see how you can accurately grind a surface with a consumable stone wheel.
You're only taking .001 - .002 cuts. .002 is a lot on a surface grinder for a single pass.
I ate the paste. haha
I must be getting old and losing what little sense of humour I may have had but I could not see the joke, it is April 1st isn't it or are you letting the side down this year?
ATB
c
+Chris Stephens You Brits don't seem to get American humor. Maybe somebody will help explain it to you. Admittedly it is pretty subtle.
Best,
Tom
+Chris Stephens Losing. Not "loosing".
+MrShobar I told I was getting old and as an extra, befuddled. Also, you must forgive any errors, English is not my native tongue that privilege belongs to Gibberish.
+Chris Stephens Sometime my mind is jibberish like talking to a collegue who is having obvious problems his own making or the worst someone else" work given to my shift. to get done the programming of a new part unproven with major problems. I get a lot is scared people trying to do their best wishing a solution after fighting it until they reach out. That happens to me also . It is all pert of the job if they want best progress Promote me and support me. I will not give up on anyone under my care even if there is something I definitely do not like.
02:10 Damn you sound like my ex wife the day I filed for divorce !