Couldn’t agree more. I just wish I could have had a manager like Don Bailey throughout my career. It really makes a huge difference when the guy telling you what needs doing actually knows how and why it gets done, and is willing to explain it in a friendly and concise manner.
@@tomthumb3085 me too! Been a tool and cutter grinder since the early 70's.ground a lot of cutters worked on the early B1bomber sharpening a lot of carbide cutters cutting titanium 6al4v,.Been retried over 12 years and been rehired grinding and making and modifying tools,Still learning .Could you please explain the trouble one can get into climb cutting or in the case work is being pushed again the grinding wheel putting pressure on both the wheel under a heavy cut.thanksAl
I wish this series wand others like was available 50 years ago when I was starting out as a machinist in a small town in western Oklahoma. Learning from the few guys that hung around after things went to pot in the '60s and library books was slow going. You guys would have helped a lot. Now there isn't much demand for manual machinists Thanks..
I must say, it was a little awkward in the first 30 seconds, but just as Mr. Allen said, it was the copper, not the epoxy, that made it conducive. So, I realized after watching these two men share their knowledge that my search, to find at least one manufacturer here in the US, was over. This Don Bailey & Tim Allen video on magnetic 🧲 chuck information is where I first learned that their standard is actually better than the finest for me. This video cleared up a few my misconceptions, so, a gigantic THANK YOU to you both for your time.
Over the last 50 or so years I have owned several of both electric and mechanical magnet chucks and until now I really didn't understand how they worked. I really enjoy using them both for machining and grinding. Thanks for this video.
Very interesting, thank you. I have an old Eclipse chuck dismantled for rebuild, despite the warnings never to take one appart. The Alnico magnets loose much of their strength without a 'keeper' to complete the magnetic path, unlike the more modern ceramic magnets you use. It's not a problem as long as you keep one of the top or bottom plates in place at all times. In my case the epoxy used to encapsulate the pole pieces have swollen, preventing the magnet assembly from sliding freely. I've scraped the epoxy back down flush and the chuck is just awaiting a final clean and re-assembly.
i took an eclipse chuck apart to despite the warning the alluminiom spacer around the handle cracked allowing grit to get in it so had to section it out and re manufacture it and also clean the years worth of gunk out of it (very filthy) . put it together didnt work took apart re-assymbled did multiple times. gave up someone else looked at it had the damn cam for the handle backwards...... so many hours wasted i thought i scraped it lol
I have been watching YT videos about magnetic chucks for a while and NO INE has said how they work... until now. I live videos that tell me, be careful, better off letting the pro do it. Makes me salivate to get a magnetic chuck and tear it apart. hahah
first, very informative. Thank you. second, are the rails ground so they are 90 to the chuck face, you said they were added after grinding. third, you should include a link to the product page in the description of videos like this.
Jack Hoying We thought this may be a good video as it is somewhat rare for people to see what's inside.Don't forget to Subscribe to our channel for the latest How To Video's and share them with like minded people that would like to learn new (old) techniques.
Interesting Video. Thx. Why do you weld the transfer poles before copper brazing. You could snug them up in a jig and braze them in the jig, which would help to ensure a better alignmet - just a thougt.
I thank you very much. I wanted to learn WHAT IS A magnet chuck? I watched another video because it was first in line and I wasted my time doing so - that person should understand what the content is supposed to be when describing an object in a video (such as WHAT IS THIS OBJECT and WHY USE IT). Now I not only know what it is made like internally, but also I gleamed an understanding why to use it and the fact that a handle can TURN IT OFF! I liked the video and indicated so. And I know that I want a standard version for what I will be doing (bigger parts).
Very interesting and informative. Funny you should mention the strength of magnets. I have some magnets that came out of a Sand Mine for extracting the metal from the sand. They are 3/4" diameter by 1" long and are installed in Stainless tubes with Stainless discs separating the magnets. The magnets themselves are incredibly strong i.e. don't hold two in the same hand unless you want a hugh blood blister as they will just snap together with great force. Thanks for the Vid guys.
Hi Don. Thanks for the video. I just recently purchased an old NB Churchill 18 x 6" Hydraulic Surface Grinder built in 1959 with 18 x 6" Eclipse Mag Chuck on it. Apart from a good clean up the machine is in very good condition. Like you said in one of your other vids Rebuilding Older Machines the old machines were built to last. The Chuck has lost a lot of it's holding power but knowing what to look for now, the toggle is loose. I'll be stripping it soon to give it a bit of TLC. Will do a little Vid on it and post soon. Cheers Graham.
+Gustavo Fiorenza Yes, when we moved to our Auburn Hills facility in 1995 we wanted to repaint all of the machines. We decided on burgundy to match our product line.
Hi Don, Firstly thank you for an excellent series of videos, keep em coming ! Don, do you have a "trick" for checking whether a mag chuck is still usable ? for example, some of us buy s/h chucks or perhaps get a chuck with a machine so how do you check that the chuck is "grippy" enough to use safely ? Regards Mike Young
Mike Young Thanks for watching Mike. The best way to check a magnetic chuck is to use a gauss meter. If you do not have one and do not want to send it back to the manufacturer to inspect, you can take a piece of steel approx. 1" x 1" x 6" long and put it in the middle of the chuck. Turn on the chuck and see if you can pull it off. This is not recommended due to the variables involved, but it will give you an idea if the chuck is working properly.
It doesn’t seem like they are welding on the permanent magnets. They are welding on the steel top plates. The steel will regain its magnetic properties once it goes back down below the Currie temp.
Think of a horseshoe magnet. If you put a piece of steel across the horseshoe you will short out the magnet and it won’t work. Our lever works in a similar way inside the base.
Ah - I see🙂 I am so glad that The owner of the first shop I worked in saw potential in me and encouraged me to work in the tool room instead of just settling up cold heading machines (my dad’s job - no offense dad 😉) or secondary operation machines. I am 56 now and still learn something most everyday - the last few years some CNC and wire EDM which I wished I learned years earlier. I love to teach young people starting in the trade too.
+Steve P (Hotwelder2) Magnets loose power from being heated, so if your welding on a fixture like this and enough heat is transferred you could weaken the magnets.
Hello. I have looked at your video a few times and from what I see is the magnet Assy. Is the moving part and is pushed or pulled by the cam and cam lick to the out going shaft... I am trying to get my old chuck to operate. Brown and sharpe Perma sine Cat # 928-100 I have been able to get the bottom of the chuck removed and the magnet box is still solid to the top plate ..I have it soaking in wd 40 now ..I do have photos of the disassembly to this point .. I am a very resent medically retired 62 year old service tech on machine tools with over 35 years in the trade ..This is the first chuck that I have had to dissemble .. Any info would help Charles Brown
You mentioned thinner steel - how thin can you go and still get good grip? (I'm contemplating trying something - grinding a non-magnetic material glued to mild steel plate that I will then need to acid etch off - so the thinner and less material I need to remove, the better...)
Either use a glue that you know a solvent for or use heat to get the glue to separate. Or the best, get an ice chuck. "Thin" in grinding context is usually consider as 1-3 mm thick, though it all depends.
Wait is your fixture body (chuck) made of aluminum? Wouldn't this expand more than steel due to heat-sinking the chuck? Or is it a negligible amount? I am a swiss machinist currently looking into getting into toolmaking.
Hope that is not a mechanical watch, Don! Thanks for a great video. The concept of having a five pound piece of steel in one hand that suddenly "weighs" hundreds of pounds when it comes near an activated mag chuck is a very sobering thought. Why no permanent warnings on the tool for your cameraman not to get his head caught in it?
Great video, but you didn't explain how the chuck works, how is it switched on and off, What''s the principle of the chuck? Nice to see how it's made but the important point of how it works was totally missed....
My understanding is that there are alternating plates of ferrous and non ferrous (steel and stainless steel) on the top plate that act as a magnetic conductor. Steel being the conductors, stainless being a non conductor. The top plate is then brought into close proximity to the magnets underneath and the magnetism is then conducted through the steel. The spacing is so the north and south poles of the magnets can be separated and the work piece will complete the magnetic circuit (hence it being pulled heavily into the chuck surface). I would suspect that the bottom of the magnets (the base) has one massive steel plate that forms a conductive path for the other ends of the magnets. Moving the chuck surface away from the magnets breaks that circuit and you can then lift the work piece away. Magnetism power is a square law ratio (F ~= k *1/(d^2) ) so a small movement away from the magnets can dramatically change the force. The reason for alternate magnets being that you can complete 2 magnetic circuits. Let’s say you have NSNS. In effect these magnetic circuits look like - NS SN NS to your work piece, so you have almost doubled the pulling power by interlacing the poles.
Don, Don't think I will be attempting to build a magnetic chuck anytime soon. While this is a great video, it raises all kinds of questions. How do you blanchard grind the surface that has the copper without loading up the wheel? How does the V-block magnetic chuck construction vary from the flat magnetic chuck? When you weld up the "bottom plate" that has magnets embedded in it there would have to be considerable heat transferred to the magnet. Doesn't the heat affect the magnets by reducing their magnetic pull?
The amount of copper in that is next to nothing, plus blanchard grinders have huge segments in them and are very not likely to get clogged soon. V-block just has a V-shaped "table top". The magnet plate isn't welded, it is epoxied and heat is one of the reasons.
Gordon Brown If you dress your grinding wheel, then lightly coat it with perafane was or even use floor was. It will keep the wheel from clogging. This works excellent on aluminum as well.
Even though it is compressed and welded, there is still space for the copper to penetrate. Much like soldering a joint, the solder will flow through and seal it. Thank you.
The lever / handle actuates the cam which moves the magnet set in the magnet box. When the magnets align with the poles in the top plate, the magnetic force is transferred. Moving the lever / handle back the other way aligns the magnet with the stainless steel plates which do not transfer the magnetism allowing for the removal of the workpiece from the chuck.
When I first saw a magnetic chuck I saw him throw a large lever and couldn't understand why. I thought they were electromagnets. Now I get it. Thank you. Is the reason they are not electromagnets because of residual magnetism??
I have a magnetic chuck which is been used for almost 18 years. The holding power was not good. I opened it and surface grinded all the parts, made the Cam parts and assembled. I think over time, the permanent magnets in d device, lost its power. Is there any way I can increase the power of those magnets?
Merin Johnson , Try putting your finger between the chuck and a large block of mild steel. Isn’t that what the real Tim Allen does to all of their chucks as a final test? He has a chart that equates the size of the blood blisters and the number of fingers.............
same like You install a 2000hp engine into the motobike.... or a 200hp motor into a mini lathe. Other problem, in this size the neodinium magnets cannot provide a homogenic magnetic force. The ceramic magnets have much much much older technology and knowledges to produce precision magnets in this size. Maybe after several decades we will see smaller, lighter holders. And, do not forget, after You assembled the magnetic plate, You need to do machining on the surfaces. This what I think, but Suburban maybe has a right answers.
The top plate is not a magnet. The magnets are in the base and when they line up with the steel plates on top, the magnetic force is transferred. The non magnetic stainless steel plates allow you to turn the magnet on and off. Thank you for watching.
Well. Explanation too general. I want more details and..........you don't mentioned nothing about magnetization of pieces which are placed on this chuck for long time processing on the machines. How can be prevented or how can be reversed.
OK, from what I remember from grade-school science, every magnet has a north and south pole. Break them and both pieces also have the same poles. Now, I'm going to show magnets as (N-S). Is this the way you are positioning the magnets? (N-S)(N-S)(N-S) or (N-S)(S-N)(N-S) ? The (N-S)(N-S) method would be easy, since you don't have to fight the poles. (I may have been exposed to magnets in the 2nd grade, but the fascination has lasted the next 52 years.) steve
I think (N-S)(S-N)(N-S) so that stronger poles are created in the intervening mild steel separators which complete the magnetic circuit through the top plate.
Don; I have 88 ton press, forge, anvil. Fadal, Clausing storm 210, Haas TM-2... Bridgeport x 2 !1 Manual series II...And series 1 dx32 CNC .. Dah-Lih with the Anilam 1100 control.. About 12 welders. Trucks. Garbage. Furnace good for 2400 F. So, what do I need to make a bowl shaped magnetic transfer plate that I don't have> Bear in mind I have to machine to blank to the correct radius after I stick it together. I have read about using nails and epoxy. Your recipe seems to lean more toward Aluminum and Iron. Oh, what kinda rock can grind Aluminum???...( You may ask why....) I can punch 1 1/2" holes through 1" A-572. It is just a bit beyond hobby level. Again, my uncountable thanks for sharing your knowledge. I consider it to be our responsibility... I love bringing on the boys. I wish I could do it full-time. I am 55, but you have taught me more in a week than I could figure out in 10 years. Really. Thanks so much again! Mark
Hi Don: I love all your videos. Ok, here is what I would like to do: I bought an engraving vise, a ball vise. It is a bowling ball with a vise on it. m So, I have a Magna-chuck. I want to machine a bowl to hold the ball. Put on my electro-mag, and do the organic angles. What is the recipe for making a transfer block blank look like? Again, Many thanks!!! Mark
Mark Richardson It is a press and heat process that fuses the plates together. Most of the transfer rails out there are bolted together and they do not last long without the plates moving. Without the proper equipment and exact processing techniques they are very difficult to make.
The bottom plate with the magnets on it is what generates the magnetic field. This field is always being generated, even when the chuck is "off." The top plate is made of alternating materials; one allows magnetism to pass through it, the other material blocks the magnetism. When you turn the chuck "On" you are aligning the magnetic fields of the bottom plate with the pass-through slats of the top plate. Those fields transmit through the top plate and hold your part down. When you turn the chuck "Off," the bottom plate is physically sliding and aligning the magnets with the slats in the top plate that block magnetism.
Greg Koenig This was my question also. Thank you for filling us in on how the fields are aligned. I would like to see the insides of an electric chuck also and hear some tech talk on them. Joe
Joseph P. Polnaszek The on position has the poles between the magnets lined up with the steel in the upper plate so the fields go up to the top surface, through the part to be held, and back down the next steel to the next pole. When switched off, the poles line up between the steel in the upper plate so the field goes from pole to steel to next pole without going to the top surface.
Just as the title states, "how to build a magnetic chuck". We make and sell a lot of magnetic chucks. www.subtool.com/idx_magnetic_chucks_sine_plates_and_tools.html What part don't you get? Thanks for watching.
these videos are seriously underrated, i have learned more today watching 2 videos then i have all year working in a toolroom.
please dont stop
+cbeaulac Glad we could help.
Couldn’t agree more. I just wish I could have had a manager like Don Bailey throughout my career. It really makes a huge difference when the guy telling you what needs doing actually knows how and why it gets done, and is willing to explain it in a friendly and concise manner.
@@tomthumb3085 me too! Been a tool and cutter grinder since the early 70's.ground a lot of cutters worked on the early B1bomber sharpening a lot of carbide cutters cutting titanium 6al4v,.Been retried over 12 years and been rehired grinding and making and modifying tools,Still learning .Could you please explain the trouble one can get into climb cutting or in the case work is being pushed again the grinding wheel putting pressure on both the wheel under a heavy cut.thanksAl
I wish this series wand others like was available 50 years ago when I was starting out as a machinist in a small town in western Oklahoma. Learning from the few guys that hung around after things went to pot in the '60s and library books was slow going.
You guys would have helped a lot. Now there isn't much demand for manual machinists Thanks..
I must say, it was a little awkward in the first 30 seconds, but just as Mr. Allen said, it was the copper, not the epoxy, that made it conducive.
So, I realized after watching these two men share their knowledge that my search, to find at least one manufacturer here in the US, was over. This Don Bailey & Tim Allen video on magnetic 🧲 chuck information is where I first learned that their standard is actually better than the finest for me. This video cleared up a few my misconceptions, so, a gigantic THANK YOU to you both for your time.
Wow! Thank you.
Over the last 50 or so years I have owned several of both electric and mechanical magnet chucks and until now I really didn't understand how they worked. I really enjoy using them both for machining and grinding. Thanks for this video.
this is awesome..!!!!! a president of a company who actually knows his product line
Thank you for taking the time to do this one.
Great video, guys. Many thanks for taking the time and effort to show us something that most take for granted.
Very informative. Thanks. A graphic showing the component alignment and how moving the lower table turns the holding force on/off would be optimal.
Thank you for the quick response. The videos are appreciated immensely.
thank you for sharing your experience !
Great set of videos. 1st class all round, makes me realise how little I know!!!!!
Great video for all times!
Thanks for the best video on magnetic chucks on the internet! I really enjoyed it!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love these guys.
Nice gear, well made !!!
Very interesting, thank you.
I have an old Eclipse chuck dismantled for rebuild, despite the warnings never to take one appart. The Alnico magnets loose much of their strength without a 'keeper' to complete the magnetic path, unlike the more modern ceramic magnets you use.
It's not a problem as long as you keep one of the top or bottom plates in place at all times. In my case the epoxy used to encapsulate the pole pieces have swollen, preventing the magnet assembly from sliding freely. I've scraped the epoxy back down flush and the chuck is just awaiting a final clean and re-assembly.
i took an eclipse chuck apart to despite the warning the alluminiom spacer around the handle cracked allowing grit to get in it so had to section it out and re manufacture it and also clean the years worth of gunk out of it (very filthy) . put it together didnt work took apart re-assymbled did multiple times. gave up someone else looked at it had the damn cam for the handle backwards...... so many hours wasted i thought i scraped it lol
Awesome, thank you for sharing.
Lolol...just found this video....thank you!!!! Great info and sooooo much help
Great video. Awesome the way theses work. A lot of work goes into making the chuck. Wow. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks 👍
I have been watching YT videos about magnetic chucks for a while and NO INE has said how they work... until now. I live videos that tell me, be careful, better off letting the pro do it. Makes me salivate to get a magnetic chuck and tear it apart. hahah
Right on
Great video, thanks for the work.
FSI Fabrication Thank You
Tim Allen needs his own show!
How about Tim the Tool guy?
(Seriously, GREAT video!)
I haven't used a mag clutch,
since 1974.
steve
Thank you, i enjoy your Vids.
Grüsse aus Deutschland :)
Use your line of fixtures and workholding daily. Great line of products.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for the kind words. If you have a chance, please leave us a review on Google. As always, thanks for watching!
Thanks!
I'm impressed with the quality of the build, this thing is just like downtown. Not your run of the mill Harbor Flake Chinesium.
first,
very informative. Thank you.
second,
are the rails ground so they are 90 to the chuck face, you said they were added after grinding.
third,
you should include a link to the product page in the description of videos like this.
You guys are so cool !! Don’t let it go to your heads :).
Thanks! Don't worry, I like to keep my feet on the ground.
There is a lot more to building one of these than I would of guessed!
Jack Hoying We thought this may be a good video as it is somewhat rare for people to see what's inside.Don't forget to Subscribe to our channel for the latest How To Video's and share them with like minded people that would like to learn new (old) techniques.
Nice!
Very informative, thanks. Regards
Louis Roy Thanks LouisPlease share these with someone that will enjoy them.
Will do
Very nice sir
Interesting Video. Thx. Why do you weld the transfer poles before copper brazing. You could snug them up in a jig and braze them in the jig, which would help to ensure a better alignmet - just a thougt.
damn man, i want to come work for yall now.
I thank you very much. I wanted to learn WHAT IS A magnet chuck? I watched another video because it was first in line and I wasted my time doing so - that person should understand what the content is supposed to be when describing an object in a video (such as WHAT IS THIS OBJECT and WHY USE IT). Now I not only know what it is made like internally, but also I gleamed an understanding why to use it and the fact that a handle can TURN IT OFF! I liked the video and indicated so. And I know that I want a standard version for what I will be doing (bigger parts).
Very interesting and informative. Funny you should mention the strength of magnets. I have some magnets that came out of a Sand Mine for extracting the metal from the sand. They are 3/4" diameter by 1" long and are installed in Stainless tubes with Stainless discs separating the magnets. The magnets themselves are incredibly strong i.e. don't hold two in the same hand unless you want a hugh blood blister as they will just snap together with great force. Thanks for the Vid guys.
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Hi Don. Thanks for the video. I just recently purchased an old NB Churchill 18 x 6" Hydraulic Surface Grinder built in 1959 with 18 x 6" Eclipse Mag Chuck on it. Apart from a good clean up the machine is in very good condition. Like you said in one of your other vids Rebuilding Older Machines the old machines were built to last. The Chuck has lost a lot of it's holding power but knowing what to look for now, the toggle is loose. I'll be stripping it soon to give it a bit of TLC. Will do a little Vid on it and post soon.
Cheers
Graham.
Is there a story behind the color of your products and machines?, Thanks, love the series.
+Gustavo Fiorenza Yes, when we moved to our Auburn Hills facility in 1995 we wanted to repaint all of the machines. We decided on burgundy to match our product line.
Hi Don, Firstly thank you for an excellent series of videos, keep em coming ! Don, do you have a "trick" for checking whether a mag chuck is still usable ? for example, some of us buy s/h chucks or perhaps get a chuck with a machine so how do you check that the chuck is "grippy" enough to use safely ?
Regards Mike Young
Mike Young Thanks for watching Mike. The best way to check a magnetic chuck is to use a gauss meter. If you do not have one and do not want to send it back to the manufacturer to inspect, you can take a piece of steel approx. 1" x 1" x 6" long and put it in the middle of the chuck. Turn on the chuck and see if you can pull it off. This is not recommended due to the variables involved, but it will give you an idea if the chuck is working properly.
Great video. Doesn’t the heat from welding and brazing damage the magnetic property though?
It doesn’t seem like they are welding on the permanent magnets. They are welding on the steel top plates. The steel will regain its magnetic properties once it goes back down below the Currie temp.
aww i was interested in the magnet pack specifically. how it engages by rotating the lever etc.
Think of a horseshoe magnet. If you put a piece of steel across the horseshoe you will short out the magnet and it won’t work. Our lever works in a similar way inside the base.
Thank you for sharing! I always wondered what was inside and how it works. But where is the additional bottom plate and rods to make your 5” sine?
Thank you for watching. This video may explain what you are looking for ruclips.net/video/FBS9vy7cfKY/видео.html. Thanks again!
Ah - I see🙂 I am so glad that The owner of the first shop I worked in saw potential in me and encouraged me to work in the tool room instead of just settling up cold heading machines (my dad’s job - no offense dad 😉) or secondary operation machines. I am 56 now and still learn something most everyday - the last few years some CNC and wire EDM which I wished I learned years earlier. I love to teach young people starting in the trade too.
copper braze? does brass interfere with the magnetic transfer?
Nice tour. At 2:55 "Ouch says the surface plate".
It sounded louder than it was, trust me it was fine.
Hi Don,
Ok, with all the care and effort you guys put into your product, what could go wrong and cause your chuck to lose magnetic power?
+Steve P (Hotwelder2) Generally it is because the cam link gets worn out and does not move the magnet box far enough.
+Steve P (Hotwelder2) Magnets loose power from being heated, so if your welding on a fixture like this and enough heat is transferred you could weaken the magnets.
Hello. I have looked at your video a few times and from what I see is the magnet Assy. Is the moving part and is pushed or pulled by the cam and cam lick to the out going shaft...
I am trying to get my old chuck to operate. Brown and sharpe Perma sine Cat # 928-100
I have been able to get the bottom of the chuck removed and the magnet box is still solid to the top plate ..I have it soaking in wd 40 now ..I do have photos of the disassembly to this point ..
I am a very resent medically retired 62 year old service tech on machine tools with over 35 years in the trade ..This is the first chuck that I have had to dissemble ..
Any info would help
Charles Brown
Thanks, theory is one thing but actual process is best.
You mentioned thinner steel - how thin can you go and still get good grip? (I'm contemplating trying something - grinding a non-magnetic material glued to mild steel plate that I will then need to acid etch off - so the thinner and less material I need to remove, the better...)
Either use a glue that you know a solvent for or use heat to get the glue to separate. Or the best, get an ice chuck.
"Thin" in grinding context is usually consider as 1-3 mm thick, though it all depends.
Wait is your fixture body (chuck) made of aluminum?
Wouldn't this expand more than steel due to heat-sinking the chuck? Or is it a negligible amount? I am a swiss machinist currently looking into getting into toolmaking.
Hope that is not a mechanical watch, Don!
Thanks for a great video.
The concept of having a five pound piece of steel in one hand that suddenly "weighs" hundreds of pounds when it comes near an activated mag chuck is a very sobering thought.
Why no permanent warnings on the tool for your cameraman not to get his head caught in it?
Great video, but you didn't explain how the chuck works, how is it switched on and off, What''s the principle of the chuck? Nice to see how it's made but the important point of how it works was totally missed....
My understanding is that there are alternating plates of ferrous and non ferrous (steel and stainless steel) on the top plate that act as a magnetic conductor. Steel being the conductors, stainless being a non conductor. The top plate is then brought into close proximity to the magnets underneath and the magnetism is then conducted through the steel. The spacing is so the north and south poles of the magnets can be separated and the work piece will complete the magnetic circuit (hence it being pulled heavily into the chuck surface). I would suspect that the bottom of the magnets (the base) has one massive steel plate that forms a conductive path for the other ends of the magnets. Moving the chuck surface away from the magnets breaks that circuit and you can then lift the work piece away. Magnetism power is a square law ratio (F ~= k *1/(d^2) ) so a small movement away from the magnets can dramatically change the force. The reason for alternate magnets being that you can complete 2 magnetic circuits. Let’s say you have NSNS. In effect these magnetic circuits look like - NS SN NS to your work piece, so you have almost doubled the pulling power by interlacing the poles.
Don, Don't think I will be attempting to build a magnetic chuck anytime soon. While this is a great video, it raises all kinds of questions. How do you blanchard grind the surface that has the copper without loading up the wheel? How does the V-block magnetic chuck construction vary from the flat magnetic chuck? When you weld up the "bottom plate" that has magnets embedded in it there would have to be considerable heat transferred to the magnet. Doesn't the heat affect the magnets by reducing their magnetic pull?
The amount of copper in that is next to nothing, plus blanchard grinders have huge segments in them and are very not likely to get clogged soon.
V-block just has a V-shaped "table top".
The magnet plate isn't welded, it is epoxied and heat is one of the reasons.
Gordon Brown If you dress your grinding wheel, then lightly coat it with perafane was or even use floor was. It will keep the wheel from clogging. This works excellent on aluminum as well.
I want one
The TV Tim Allen would’ve made the magnet so powerful when he turned it on a car would’ve come flying in.
I hope his watch still working well
How does the copper brazing penetrate down inside the initial assembly if it's compressed and welded?
Even though it is compressed and welded, there is still space for the copper to penetrate. Much like soldering a joint, the solder will flow through and seal it. Thank you.
I just found out these guys are local... I'll have to go in and say hi...
Thank you for watching!
Good video on the construction, but how about a description of how they actually work to be able to turn on and off?
The lever / handle actuates the cam which moves the magnet set in the magnet box. When the magnets align with the poles in the top plate, the magnetic force is transferred. Moving the lever / handle back the other way aligns the magnet with the stainless steel plates which do not transfer the magnetism allowing for the removal of the workpiece from the chuck.
When I first saw a magnetic chuck I saw him throw a large lever and couldn't understand why. I thought they were electromagnets. Now I get it. Thank you.
Is the reason they are not electromagnets because of residual magnetism??
Thank you for watching
I have a magnetic chuck which is been used for almost 18 years. The holding power was not good. I opened it and surface grinded all the parts, made the Cam parts and assembled. I think over time, the permanent magnets in d device, lost its power. Is there any way I can increase the power of those magnets?
Merin Johnson ,
Try putting your finger between the chuck and a large block of mild steel. Isn’t that what the real Tim Allen does to all of their chucks as a final test? He has a chart that equates the size of the blood blisters and the number of fingers.............
What about using neodymium magnets? That would be death machine chuck
same like You install a 2000hp engine into the motobike.... or a 200hp motor into a mini lathe. Other problem, in this size the neodinium magnets cannot provide a homogenic magnetic force. The ceramic magnets have much much much older technology and knowledges to produce precision magnets in this size. Maybe after several decades we will see smaller, lighter holders. And, do not forget, after You assembled the magnetic plate, You need to do machining on the surfaces. This what I think, but Suburban maybe has a right answers.
the top plate does not demagnetize when you weld it?
The top plate is not a magnet. The magnets are in the base and when they line up with the steel plates on top, the magnetic force is transferred. The non magnetic stainless steel plates allow you to turn the magnet on and off. Thank you for watching.
Well. Explanation too general. I want more details and..........you don't mentioned nothing about magnetization of pieces which are placed on this chuck for long time processing on the machines. How can be prevented or how can be reversed.
Made in America! Sold!
BMR Studio aa
You didn’t explain how it turned magnetic on off please explain
How dose stainlous steel turn off magnets.
lt doesn't work as a magnet! watch the whole video for reference
OK, from what I remember from grade-school
science, every magnet has a north and south
pole. Break them and both pieces also have
the same poles. Now, I'm going to show magnets
as (N-S).
Is this the way you are positioning the magnets?
(N-S)(N-S)(N-S) or (N-S)(S-N)(N-S) ?
The (N-S)(N-S) method would be easy, since you
don't have to fight the poles.
(I may have been exposed to magnets in the 2nd
grade, but the fascination has lasted the next 52
years.)
steve
I think (N-S)(S-N)(N-S) so that stronger poles are created in the intervening mild steel separators which complete the magnetic circuit through the top plate.
Don;
I have 88 ton press, forge, anvil.
Fadal, Clausing storm 210, Haas TM-2... Bridgeport x 2 !1 Manual series II...And series 1 dx32 CNC ..
Dah-Lih with the Anilam 1100 control.. About 12 welders. Trucks. Garbage. Furnace good for 2400 F.
So, what do I need to make a bowl shaped magnetic transfer plate that I don't have>
Bear in mind I have to machine to blank to the correct radius after I stick it together.
I have read about using nails and epoxy. Your recipe seems to lean more toward Aluminum and Iron.
Oh, what kinda rock can grind Aluminum???...( You may ask why....)
I can punch 1 1/2" holes through 1" A-572. It is just a bit beyond hobby level.
Again, my uncountable thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I consider it to be our responsibility... I love bringing on the boys. I wish I could do it full-time.
I am 55, but you have taught me more in a week than I could figure out in 10 years.
Really.
Thanks so much again!
Mark
Hi Don:
I love all your videos.
Ok, here is what I would like to do:
I bought an engraving vise, a ball vise.
It is a bowling ball with a vise on it.
m So, I have a Magna-chuck.
I want to machine a bowl to hold the ball. Put on my electro-mag, and do the organic angles.
What is the recipe for making a transfer block blank look like?
Again, Many thanks!!!
Mark
Mark Richardson It is a press and heat process that fuses the
plates together. Most of the transfer rails out there are bolted together and
they do not last long without the plates moving. Without the proper equipment and exact processing techniques they are very difficult to make.
👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks!
Has anyone ever tried to use a magnetic chuck for work holding in a horizontal milling machine?
We do not recommend our magnetic chucks for milling applications. Thank you for watching.
Still slightly confused as to how the on/off mechanism works guess I'll watch again
The bottom plate with the magnets on it is what generates the magnetic field. This field is always being generated, even when the chuck is "off."
The top plate is made of alternating materials; one allows magnetism to pass through it, the other material blocks the magnetism. When you turn the chuck "On" you are aligning the magnetic fields of the bottom plate with the pass-through slats of the top plate. Those fields transmit through the top plate and hold your part down.
When you turn the chuck "Off," the bottom plate is physically sliding and aligning the magnets with the slats in the top plate that block magnetism.
Greg Koenig This was my question also. Thank you for filling us in on how the fields are aligned.
I would like to see the insides of an electric chuck also and hear some tech talk on them.
Joe
Joseph P. Polnaszek The on position has the poles between the magnets lined up with the steel in the upper plate so the fields go up to the top surface, through the part to be held, and back down the next steel to the next pole. When switched off, the poles line up between the steel in the upper plate so the field goes from pole to steel to next pole without going to the top surface.
After ten minutes of jaw flapping I still don't know how the device operates.
Just as the title states, "how to build a magnetic chuck". We make and sell a lot of magnetic chucks.
www.subtool.com/idx_magnetic_chucks_sine_plates_and_tools.html
What part don't you get?
Thanks for watching.
So you can buy a suburban chuck with some assembly required now huh? Lol
No, sorry we only sell the finished units. But thank you for your interest.
maybe you should look up printed magnets it might save you a hole lot of time and money.
Cool! I think every subscriber should get a free sample! :D
HAHAHA Thank you for watching
pésimo camarografo