One of the best episode in a long while. Im just hoping you document the actual glassing part of the build somewhere so noobs like myself can obsess over it. Great content. Thanks for sharing.
After two water-logged Sea Ducks, I decided to glass my 3rd one. I removed ALL the paper and glassed it with 18g and 24g/m2. Results were perfect! No more moisture getting between the paper and the foam, with very little weight gain. The Sea Duck is my absolute favourite and now even more so. Thanks Team!! Rob
The seaduck is my favorite one too. So did you build it like normal and then take all the paper off before glassing or did you build it without the paper, then glassed it?
@@cooter3690 Both - for example I took the paper off the inside of the wing BEFORE folding, and removed the paper from the outside of the wing AFTER the wing was assembled. The fuselage pieces were "depapered" and glassed BEFORE gluing together. I crashed my 1st SeaDuck. My 2nd got slowly more-and-more waterlogged. I like to do spend a lot of time gliding across the water - and the fact that it was sea water didn't help. The moisture got everywhere and caused serious delamination (yes, I used water resistant FT foamboard). Fibreglass is the way to go!
@@Rob-kj3ho This sounds really really interesting. My Seaduck is falling apart after ~300km travel. Only the fuselage which got fibreglassed is solid like a rock. Could you share some pictures of yours? maybe a dropbox gallery or on the flitetest forum on the Seaduck thread? Got my second kit already in the basement but still hesitate to start
@@mfoo3038 I've never posted anything on the Flite Test forum, but maybe I'll give it a go one of these days. To be honest, I didn't take any build photos and any photos I take now won't be of any help as she's been spray painted. For a quick guide: 1. remove the paper from the inside of ALL parts and replace with ultra-lightweight fiberglass (18g/m2). Heavier glass is a heavier plane - but stronger! I'm sure the Sea Duck could easily handle heavier glass. 2. Leaving the outer paper on while hot gluing all your folds. This will help hold everything together as the glue cools. But try to keep the glue away from the paper, since we'll remove it afterwards anyway. 3. Remove the outer paper. Lightly sand any sharp corners - as the fiberglass cloth will adhere better to a rounded corner. If you have any big gaps, you can fill with glue. I used the epoxy resin with a lightweight filler (e.g., micro-ballons). 4. Glass the outer surfaces, prior to assembling. 5. Spray paint, dry and fly - preferably over water. :) I just took out the Sea Duck again today. The water was like a mirror. I was all smiles.
I work with high power rockets a lot for university projects. If you are looking to help keep the vertical stabilizers on, try using a filleting blend to join the wing to the stabilizer. The blend will thicken the two-part epoxy and allow you to "shape" the fillet such that it can attach to the wing and stabilizer. This is how we join our fins to the body of the rocket as well as give it a nice sleek look.
In a plane, you are just moving the weakest link, and the part that will break first. If you strengthen the stab, the whole wing might get damaged if it crashes, making the repair more difficult than just gluing the broken stab back on. Picking your weak link is a skill learned through many difficult repair.
Last year, 2019, I got a tip from a fellow Flight Fest attendee that may work on these wings. He suggested using a pair of inexpensive, Dollar Tree Store, women's panty hose. Basically you cut the hose in half at the crotch, and slide each wing half tip first into each leg until the hose conforms around the entire wing. Once the wing is properly positioned, you can coat with resin or you can wipe on a couple of coats of Minwax Polycrylic water based Poly Urethane. After it dries you cut off the excess stocking, finish the edges, install the equipment and go fly! This was his method for covering foam chuck gliders that were converted to RC. He even covered the fuselage and elevator that way to make them more rigid.
please help meTo the person that's reading this:you're very intelligent and adorable human! Stay healthy during quarantine 🌈☁️My dream is 1k. I been struggling to get there any help is appreciated❤️❤️❤️❤️
@@adamlhotak8180 Crossfire is way more popular, can't remember the last time I heard somebody talk about dragon link. Crossfire uses a higher frequency than dragonlink it looks like but both should give you way more range than you will need.
I've been glassing foamboard planes for a while and I've found 3/4oz weight glass and keeping the epoxy to a minimum adds the least weight but still adds strength. Keeping it to the leading edge and surfaces that are landed on can keep the weight down too. Helps a TON with scuffs, dents, and fraying that foamboard usually experiences.
I also feel like selectively glassing and using a carbon spar is stronger than using that spar weight on more glass. You can make some seriously robust foamies that way.
I love that Josh and his son are friends. Nothing is more important than being friends with your children. I see so many parents make the mistake of being a boss over being friends.
You can have many of the same interests as you children but they can not be in the friend zone during development it is the communication that makes the true bonds.
Take care with comments about stuttering. My wife and son both hang up on words with the S sound. I have been told President Elect Joe Biden also has an issue with stuttering and has worked all his life in overcoming, or hiding the problem. I give all my respect for those who suffer from the problem and maybe you do also.
Hey FliteTest! I have been watching your videos or about a year now and just wanted to say you are some of the best RC channels I have ever come across! You got me into RC when I bought a Mini Apprentice S, I crashed it yet am going to fix it soon and get it back up into the air. So thanks for being awesome!
@@georgewashington1621 You assign safe to a switch so you can turn it off and on during flight. You can't assume he even had it turned on at that point.
I'm sure everyone already knows but EPP foam could take that type of abuse all day long with next to no damage. That's why EPP Foam wings are used for combat flying. I would love to see some FT designed EPP foam planes.
@@eulachonfish Oh yeah, no doubt. I just mean that the tape is 90% less work but might be 80% as break resistant as the fiberglass. Which I will take the 90% less work for 80% the quality every day of the week.
I'm loving the idea of reinforcing even just the leading (impact) edges of the wings with either CF or fiberglass. It will definitely increase the longevity (for training of course) of the airframes. Love seeing a second generation getting involved in this hobby!
honestly, i've wondered why you haven't explored glassing your models prior to this. even if you don't do entire sheetings, but instead just use strips at joints at wing connections and such, you could add SO much more strength to a given model. A large scale P38, fully glassed....all it's waiting for at that point is big enough motor to get it up to the speed it should have.. Glassing isn't hard.. but it IS messy, and a little finicky. Wear old clothes or coveralls, be meticulous with your measurements, thorough with your mixing, and meticulous with your application....there are a LOT of different brands out there; shop around... (pro tip.. babywipes and personal wipes can clean up uncured resin) (if you really want to push that speed curve...glass it, then polish the resin as smooth as you possibly can, and maybe even wax it with car wax.....)
I have an arrow just like the one in the video. Can you please give me the names of products you have used it would be incredibly helpful since it seems like you know what you are doing.
Did I miss something along the way? I built, crashed, rebuilt an arrow and I thought it had a small box fuselage in the middle. I like the mini versa-wing look. Love the durability of fiberglass
Really liking the Josh and Noah show lately and it was great to see some FT classics again and some fast proximity flying. Big planes and experimental builds are neat but it's great to see you guys flying hard and fast again.
13:58 "You guys are too good of a pilot" Dw bro, i got u, hand the controller to me. Ill test the fiberglass. I just cant guarantee u'll get the plane back
0:35 Josh, I thought you're Channel Motto was: "We purposely destroy all planes!" Seriously, check some of your videos. You accomplish your motto 95% of the time!
You should bring out all your ww2 airplanes and scale them up a ton. Then attach airsoft guns to them and have a last man standing. I know it would be a lot of work, but that would be so awesome.
I was pretty sure the basketball game was Horse :v Anyway the fiberglassing looks pretty easy here! I guess when I get some clean builds done it would be a good idea to fiberglass then for a long term model.
Having worked with resin and epoxy in the past, I was surprised nothing was said about possible health side effects. Both have some serious issues for too many when it comes to long term exposure and little to no ventilation. Most resins and such often used in the commercial world require not only protective gear, but proper ventilation, which most hobbyist won't use due to cost. That is why I recommended investigating the "poor mans fiberglass" videos and the fact there is very thin, lightweight fiberglass cloth available you can almost see through.
@@br0k3nilluzion There are a lot of videos in RUclips about each point I made and to provide links for take a while since there are so many to watch. The one subject most in this hobby would find useful is Poor Mans Fiberglass, which is used to make travel trailers, or small sleeping campers using various wood glues and canvas. The key is non toxic wood glue on thin plywood, or thicker foam board combinations.
I keep checking the Tech channel and I haven't been able to find the step by step instructions for the fiberglass process you guys used... Josh or Noah, has it been posted yet?
You guys continue to be one if not the best RC channels on RUclips. 3am and the Old Man from North Carolina laughing almost spilling my coffee. The winner is a father and son sharing their love for all of us. Been following since almost day one. Always looking for the next video. Love you guys. ✈😎💗💗💗💗💗💗
I played P.I.G and H.O.R.S.E as a kid. Very funny “cow” comment - why not? I love your plane designs and the fiberglass idea, will try it sometime. I would have thought it too heavy - awesome results!
I, being fully qualified, with 0 time in a real plane, two hours MS Sim, and a half hour total time on a single engine RC, declare the winner to be.............er,um..........., well it's.........., aaahhh,............Flite Test Viewers! Great experiment, guys! Can't wait to see the next B-52 or Shield Monster!
If you want to reduce your exposure to the resin, or epoxy part of the task, you can use common plastic wrap over the fiberglass and use a trim sized paint roller, or other like devices to move the liquid to the edge of the wing. Place a piece of plastic wrap over a section of the wing from leading edge to trailing and roll out the excess liquid. It is a messy thing to do, so you will want to place some sort of absorbing material on the table and elevate the wing to allow for the liquid to drip away. Since you can see through the plastic wrap and the liquid will cure even if the plastic wrap stays in place, weigh it down once you are satisfied with the task. Sandbags work well and ziplock bags come in handy. They also come in some rather large sizes if needed. I will let you guys figure how to make a working device for the elevated wing half so it won't cure warped, unless you want to add in a bit of reflex. Remember the balsa wood wing jigs?
Josh Hi .I worked for 20 years fiberglassing surfboards and have done thousands .Get some 4oz surfboard cloth and with the resin there is a additive powder that will turn your resin into light cure .All you need is a box with some UV strip lights ( i used sunbed tubes and lined the box with silver foil but hy mine was 11' long ) do the glassing in side not daylight or it will set as you do it when your happy with the glass job put it in the light box shut lid (uv light this strong is bad for your eyes so make it a good box )5 mins later and its as hard as a rock ,you can put it out in the sun i would put repair boards out side to keep the box free for new boards .On on your laps sand the edge of the first lap bottom first with a 3" 60 grit disk sander air tool or dremel with the 90deg attachment carefully now glass the other side and sand the lap the same .If you want a super smooth finish add what is called a filler coat .Tape a halfway point around the leading edge and trailing letting it hang down and paint on enough resin to fill the weev let it sit till it flows out smooth then back in the light box and repeat for the other side .When set sand with 240 grit and remove the lip left by the tape and paint .I made wings this way and large HP rockets glassing cardboard tubes .Go talk to a surfboard material supplier they have all you need and will advise you .Only downside is you dont want to get hit by a plane done this way its going to ruin your day .Any advise please ask .I have glassed around 5000 boards .Retired now . Good luck from The UK
Everybody I know in the art and automotive community takes about toxicity of the resins. They seriously worry about long term effects and always use masks and gloves with fresh air priorized. What is your experience?
Well polyester resin and glass fiber were developed during WW2 for military planes and its been used in the boat industry ever since yes its toxic stuff but not as bad long term as you would think and your very unlikely to get hypersensitivity to it .Styreen in the resin and wax solution isn't good for you breathing it in and ingest a teaspoon of Cat your dead .Sanding and glassing requires respirators i had 2 one for sanding with the charcoal replaced with extra filter wool and a charcoal one for resin .We had big fans one in the sanding room and one in the spray room with the outside door open the air flow was good .Most sanding is just the resin and not hitting the cloth releasing fibers that's bad . Long term usage since ww2 has given good studys .Now onto epoxy that stuff is nasty carcinogenic yes big risk of hypersensitivity (i new people who couldn't even be in the same room )it can just happen out of know where i only ever did small jobs with it you should use a fresh air fed full mask for epoxy +little odor comes of it so its hard to detect buildups of fumes .I never had any problems lung wise back neck and shoulders are fooked but that's not the chemicals .I will drop a link in here from a TV program i was in i'm the one in the white overalls hope this helps . ruclips.net/video/5Y7cIA8UgUk/видео.html
Here's a test of your OWN history FliteTest. February 12, 2012 Josh and Josh. I bought the plane you featured - you had hinted at racing Bed with it. This was the first plane I had reinforced with fiberglass/resin to make the wing better mounted to the fuse because it was so poor. It lasted me a long time until a replacement RX caused catastrophe. What plane was I flying?
Hi guys ! First thanks for your work on this channel :) In the boat world, they also use a peel ply that you put on your fiberglass while curing. It helps having a smoother surface to limit the sanding process after that. It should help having a nicer finish. Keep up ;)
I made one with fiberglass and aura5lite and its really worthwhile!. It's extremely nice flying, its durable as they say. I ended up in a tree on my second flight in the "panic-mode" and only lost a winglet. thanks again to flitetest for the inspiration to build this great flying wing.
I am loving the Noah addition to the channel. It is up there with the bixler duo flys, and Alex flying while staring off in a random direction on the FPV.
Dang you guys are awesome. I go 4 wheeling with. My buddies... we build them.....push them... break them.... fix them.... repeat. Absolutely love your channel. Keep it up brothers you're amazing!!!!!!!
You might try to use thin CA instead of resin to stick the glass down. It is much quicker, stiffer, stronger and easier to sand. I used fiberglass and CA along with carbon rod to reinforce and stiffen the wing and tail surfaces of a Multiplex Twin Star so I could use 2 T-motor F80s to power it. That airframe now has 1400 watts on it and is great fun.
You should impregnate the fiberglass on the bench, squeeze out all the resin and than apply the wet fiber on the wing, you can also make a more refined airfoil shape
What about taking the paper off the board and glassing right to the foam? Then, pour a little paint thinner inside to melt the foam away leaving only the glass.
Is the brown foam here to stay?! That would make me happy! Quite the fun torture testing! Round two with a kraken would be awesome! I’d love to come fly at edgewater someday!
Just bought 2 arrow value bundles and I am looking forward to building and fly them with my daughter's. I think I will go one step further than fiberglass and carbon fibre the arrow for the added strength and oh so cool appearance. Love the channel and videos, keep it up and you guys should get back to doing more collaborations with Peter.
I spray my glass cloth very lightly with 3m77 contact adhesive, then stick it down to the model like a decal. Then squeegee the epoxy through the cloth. This jives you an infinite amount of time to make adjustments while it is only adhesive applied.
![Kodak Black - Sharp Vibes [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/oEV0OoLJeIs/mqdefault.jpg)
PIG: Short game. HORSE: Long game. COW: Milk.
Yep, normally it was horse unless we only had time for pig
Haha classic!
@@FliteTest could you please make a video on a small jet engine with electric motor propulsion.
have you tried making a
channel wing plane
@@BrianAnim Lol, we played so much horse back in the day, my rear is still tender xD
Yeah I sucked..
One of the best episode in a long while. Im just hoping you document the actual glassing part of the build somewhere so noobs like myself can obsess over it. Great content. Thanks for sharing.
After two water-logged Sea Ducks, I decided to glass my 3rd one. I removed ALL the paper and glassed it with 18g and 24g/m2. Results were perfect! No more moisture getting between the paper and the foam, with very little weight gain. The Sea Duck is my absolute favourite and now even more so. Thanks Team!! Rob
The seaduck is my favorite one too. So did you build it like normal and then take all the paper off before glassing or did you build it without the paper, then glassed it?
@@cooter3690 Both - for example I took the paper off the inside of the wing BEFORE folding, and removed the paper from the outside of the wing AFTER the wing was assembled. The fuselage pieces were "depapered" and glassed BEFORE gluing together.
I crashed my 1st SeaDuck. My 2nd got slowly more-and-more waterlogged. I like to do spend a lot of time gliding across the water - and the fact that it was sea water didn't help. The moisture got everywhere and caused serious delamination (yes, I used water resistant FT foamboard). Fibreglass is the way to go!
@@Rob-kj3ho This sounds really really interesting. My Seaduck is falling apart after ~300km travel. Only the fuselage which got fibreglassed is solid like a rock. Could you share some pictures of yours? maybe a dropbox gallery or on the flitetest forum on the Seaduck thread?
Got my second kit already in the basement but still hesitate to start
@@mfoo3038 I've never posted anything on the Flite Test forum, but maybe I'll give it a go one of these days. To be honest, I didn't take any build photos and any photos I take now won't be of any help as she's been spray painted. For a quick guide: 1. remove the paper from the inside of ALL parts and replace with ultra-lightweight fiberglass (18g/m2). Heavier glass is a heavier plane - but stronger! I'm sure the Sea Duck could easily handle heavier glass. 2. Leaving the outer paper on while hot gluing all your folds. This will help hold everything together as the glue cools. But try to keep the glue away from the paper, since we'll remove it afterwards anyway. 3. Remove the outer paper. Lightly sand any sharp corners - as the fiberglass cloth will adhere better to a rounded corner. If you have any big gaps, you can fill with glue. I used the epoxy resin with a lightweight filler (e.g., micro-ballons). 4. Glass the outer surfaces, prior to assembling. 5. Spray paint, dry and fly - preferably over water. :)
I just took out the Sea Duck again today. The water was like a mirror. I was all smiles.
Rob thanks for the detailed description i would love to see some pics of your bird anyway :)) stay safe!
I work with high power rockets a lot for university projects. If you are looking to help keep the vertical stabilizers on, try using a filleting blend to join the wing to the stabilizer. The blend will thicken the two-part epoxy and allow you to "shape" the fillet such that it can attach to the wing and stabilizer. This is how we join our fins to the body of the rocket as well as give it a nice sleek look.
Thanks,saved this comment.
(in a seperate text file)
In a plane, you are just moving the weakest link, and the part that will break first. If you strengthen the stab, the whole wing might get damaged if it crashes, making the repair more difficult than just gluing the broken stab back on. Picking your weak link is a skill learned through many difficult repair.
Last year, 2019, I got a tip from a fellow Flight Fest attendee that may work on these wings. He suggested using a pair of inexpensive, Dollar Tree Store, women's panty hose. Basically you cut the hose in half at the crotch, and slide each wing half tip first into each leg until the hose conforms around the entire wing. Once the wing is properly positioned, you can coat with resin or you can wipe on a couple of coats of Minwax Polycrylic water based Poly Urethane. After it dries you cut off the excess stocking, finish the edges, install the equipment and go fly! This was his method for covering foam chuck gliders that were converted to RC. He even covered the fuselage and elevator that way to make them more rigid.
I’d live to see you guys try some long range experiments with crossfire or dragon link, I know you guys could make it super easy :)
please help meTo the person that's reading this:you're very intelligent and adorable human! Stay healthy during quarantine 🌈☁️My dream is 1k. I been struggling to get there any help is appreciated❤️❤️❤️❤️
@@Shadays_hair_nails_care STOP
Im also making a long range setup with a ground station. What is the difference between crossfire and dragon link?
@@adamlhotak8180 Crossfire is way more popular, can't remember the last time I heard somebody talk about dragon link. Crossfire uses a higher frequency than dragonlink it looks like but both should give you way more range than you will need.
Pig bro . . . he said cow . . . lol
I've been glassing foamboard planes for a while and I've found 3/4oz weight glass and keeping the epoxy to a minimum adds the least weight but still adds strength.
Keeping it to the leading edge and surfaces that are landed on can keep the weight down too. Helps a TON with scuffs, dents, and fraying that foamboard usually experiences.
I also feel like selectively glassing and using a carbon spar is stronger than using that spar weight on more glass. You can make some seriously robust foamies that way.
I love that Josh and his son are friends. Nothing is more important than being friends with your children. I see so many parents make the mistake of being a boss over being friends.
You can have many of the same interests as you children but they can not be in the friend zone during development it is the communication that makes the true bonds.
Gonna have to request a control group. Un-glassed Arrow through the pavilion.
It would split right in half, come to Flite Fest if tou want to see what happens to arrows when they hit something hard in person;)
I agree
I loved Noah's convidence with that, "ss, sss, sure?". lol
Take care with comments about stuttering. My wife and son both hang up on words with the S sound. I have been told President Elect Joe Biden also has an issue with stuttering and has worked all his life in overcoming, or hiding the problem. I give all my respect for those who suffer from the problem and maybe you do also.
@@wattwaster5936 he wasn't stuttering, he was very unsure of doing what they asked him to.
I meant nothing against people with a stutter, honest.
@@wattwaster5936 It wasn't a comment about stuttering, if you watch the video you can tell it's apprehension.
@@sugasheeze I do hope your observation is correct. Thnaks.
@@slate613 Great to read. Thanks.
You guys refresh my positivity for our hobby, thank you
I’m impressed. I’m on my fourth Arrow, having busted up the previous three in crashes, and this looks like a great way to make things more durable.
Hey FliteTest! I have been watching your videos or about a year now and just wanted to say you are some of the best RC channels I have ever come across! You got me into RC when I bought a Mini Apprentice S, I crashed it yet am going to fix it soon and get it back up into the air. So thanks for being awesome!
Shame that "safe" feature didnt save yours
@@georgewashington1621 You assign safe to a switch so you can turn it off and on during flight. You can't assume he even had it turned on at that point.
Alex is the unsung hero....great skills following that demolition derby.
Great stuff guys....Cheers.
I'm sure everyone already knows but EPP foam could take that type of abuse all day long with next to no damage. That's why EPP Foam wings are used for combat flying. I would love to see some FT designed EPP foam planes.
I say Scotch Extreme Shipping Strapping Tape vs Fiberglass showdown
Been flying Scotch Extreme fiber tape for years and it's nowhere near as tough as this
@@eulachonfish True. The tape doesn't get solid and hard like resins and epoxy will.
@@eulachonfish Oh yeah, no doubt. I just mean that the tape is 90% less work but might be 80% as break resistant as the fiberglass. Which I will take the 90% less work for 80% the quality every day of the week.
I'm loving the idea of reinforcing even just the leading (impact) edges of the wings with either CF or fiberglass. It will definitely increase the longevity (for training of course) of the airframes. Love seeing a second generation getting involved in this hobby!
when is the fiberglass video going up on your tech channel ?
honestly, i've wondered why you haven't explored glassing your models prior to this. even if you don't do entire sheetings, but instead just use strips at joints at wing connections and such, you could add SO much more strength to a given model. A large scale P38, fully glassed....all it's waiting for at that point is big enough motor to get it up to the speed it should have..
Glassing isn't hard.. but it IS messy, and a little finicky. Wear old clothes or coveralls, be meticulous with your measurements, thorough with your mixing, and meticulous with your application....there are a LOT of different brands out there; shop around...
(pro tip.. babywipes and personal wipes can clean up uncured resin)
(if you really want to push that speed curve...glass it, then polish the resin as smooth as you possibly can, and maybe even wax it with car wax.....)
Planning a lightweight single 5mm sheet monster spitfire am. Im going to use your tips. thanks! :)
I have an arrow just like the one in the video. Can you please give me the names of products you have used it would be incredibly helpful since it seems like you know what you are doing.
Did I miss something along the way? I built, crashed, rebuilt an arrow and I thought it had a small box fuselage in the middle. I like the mini versa-wing look. Love the durability of fiberglass
You can actually do either or!! ;)
you should try vacuum sealing the fiberglass for ultimate penetration and quality control
A good demonstration for the use of fiberglass coatings, thanks!
Really liking the Josh and Noah show lately and it was great to see some FT classics again and some fast proximity flying. Big planes and experimental builds are neat but it's great to see you guys flying hard and fast again.
13:58
"You guys are too good of a pilot" Dw bro, i got u, hand the controller to me. Ill test the fiberglass.
I just cant guarantee u'll get the plane back
0:35 Josh, I thought you're Channel Motto was: "We purposely destroy all planes!"
Seriously, check some of your videos. You accomplish your motto 95% of the time!
you should make a b-17, that would be pretty cool
YES
Or a B-29 I’ve always wanted to build one it’d be a definite buy for me
You should bring out all your ww2 airplanes and scale them up a ton. Then attach airsoft guns to them and have a last man standing. I know it would be a lot of work, but that would be so awesome.
I was pretty sure the basketball game was Horse :v
Anyway the fiberglassing looks pretty easy here! I guess when I get some clean builds done it would be a good idea to fiberglass then for a long term model.
Having worked with resin and epoxy in the past, I was surprised nothing was said about possible health side effects. Both have some serious issues for too many when it comes to long term exposure and little to no ventilation. Most resins and such often used in the commercial world require not only protective gear, but proper ventilation, which most hobbyist won't use due to cost. That is why I recommended investigating the "poor mans fiberglass" videos and the fact there is very thin, lightweight fiberglass cloth available you can almost see through.
@@wattwaster5936 have any videos or links in particular you could share ?
@@br0k3nilluzion There are a lot of videos in RUclips about each point I made and to provide links for take a while since there are so many to watch. The one subject most in this hobby would find useful is Poor Mans Fiberglass, which is used to make travel trailers, or small sleeping campers using various wood glues and canvas. The key is non toxic wood glue on thin plywood, or thicker foam board combinations.
@@wattwaster5936 non of that applies here though. Welders blanket is way too heavy for any of these wings
@@br0k3nilluzion Welders blanket?
I use silkspan gives a smoother finish and lighter weight
I keep checking the Tech channel and I haven't been able to find the step by step instructions for the fiberglass process you guys used... Josh or Noah, has it been posted yet?
Father son are 100% alike same voice same way , great channel love to watch it
You guys continue to be one if not the best RC channels on RUclips. 3am and the Old Man from North Carolina laughing almost spilling my coffee. The winner is a father and son sharing their love for all of us. Been following since almost day one. Always looking for the next video. Love you guys. ✈😎💗💗💗💗💗💗
Day one of asking Fligh test to make Yondu's arrow from guardians of the galaxy 😳🔥
finally back to basics. this is exactly what i wanna see!
I played P.I.G and H.O.R.S.E as a kid. Very funny “cow” comment - why not? I love your plane designs and the fiberglass idea, will try it sometime. I would have thought it too heavy - awesome results!
Everyone: first
Me: there is another
Indeed
Indeed
Indeed
Sr won . Nice hard shells with the glass on them . Looked like a lot more fun when crash testing is involved . 🛸
The basketball game is called HORSE lol😂😂😁
We won your subscribers were the winners. Thanx FliteTest crew!!
Bixler has and shows so much class! And his crew reflects it. I liken it to “professional fun!”
Finally time to build the Flitetest Discus Launch Glider out of fiberglassed foam, maybe involve David for it, he has good experience with DLGs
I, being fully qualified, with 0 time in a real plane, two hours MS Sim, and a half hour total time on a single engine RC, declare the winner to be.............er,um..........., well it's.........., aaahhh,............Flite Test Viewers! Great experiment, guys! Can't wait to see the next B-52 or Shield Monster!
Your shop is perfect and so amazing
Thanks for the opportunity to win a counsel flitetest!! :)
How do you deal with the control surface hing when fiberglassing?
i have this same question, bend, flex it after its cured?
Velocidrone guy here. Wasn't a big fan of liftoff. Much bigger community on velocidrone.
If you want to reduce your exposure to the resin, or epoxy part of the task, you can use common plastic wrap over the fiberglass and use a trim sized paint roller, or other like devices to move the liquid to the edge of the wing. Place a piece of plastic wrap over a section of the wing from leading edge to trailing and roll out the excess liquid. It is a messy thing to do, so you will want to place some sort of absorbing material on the table and elevate the wing to allow for the liquid to drip away. Since you can see through the plastic wrap and the liquid will cure even if the plastic wrap stays in place, weigh it down once you are satisfied with the task. Sandbags work well and ziplock bags come in handy. They also come in some rather large sizes if needed. I will let you guys figure how to make a working device for the elevated wing half so it won't cure warped, unless you want to add in a bit of reflex. Remember the balsa wood wing jigs?
Flite Fest combat just got a lot better
Josh Hi .I worked for 20 years fiberglassing surfboards and have done thousands .Get some 4oz surfboard cloth and with the resin there is a additive powder that will turn your resin into light cure .All you need is a box with some UV strip lights ( i used sunbed tubes and lined the box with silver foil but hy mine was 11' long ) do the glassing in side not daylight or it will set as you do it when your happy with the glass job put it in the light box shut lid (uv light this strong is bad for your eyes so make it a good box )5 mins later and its as hard as a rock ,you can put it out in the sun i would put repair boards out side to keep the box free for new boards .On on your laps sand the edge of the first lap bottom first with a 3" 60 grit disk sander air tool or dremel with the 90deg attachment carefully now glass the other side and sand the lap the same .If you want a super smooth finish add what is called a filler coat .Tape a halfway point around the leading edge and trailing letting it hang down and paint on enough resin to fill the weev let it sit till it flows out smooth then back in the light box and repeat for the other side .When set sand with 240 grit and remove the lip left by the tape and paint .I made wings this way and large HP rockets glassing cardboard tubes .Go talk to a surfboard material supplier they have all you need and will advise you .Only downside is you dont want to get hit by a plane done this way its going to ruin your day .Any advise please ask .I have glassed around 5000 boards .Retired now . Good luck from The UK
Everybody I know in the art and automotive community takes about toxicity of the resins. They seriously worry about long term effects and always use masks and gloves with fresh air priorized. What is your experience?
Well polyester resin and glass fiber were developed during WW2 for military planes and its been used in the boat industry ever since yes its toxic stuff but not as bad long term as you would think and your very unlikely to get hypersensitivity to it .Styreen in the resin and wax solution isn't good for you breathing it in and ingest a teaspoon of Cat your dead .Sanding and glassing requires respirators i had 2 one for sanding with the charcoal replaced with extra filter wool and a charcoal one for resin .We had big fans one in the sanding room and one in the spray room with the outside door open the air flow was good .Most sanding is just the resin and not hitting the cloth releasing fibers that's bad . Long term usage since ww2 has given good studys .Now onto epoxy that stuff is nasty carcinogenic yes big risk of hypersensitivity (i new people who couldn't even be in the same room )it can just happen out of know where i only ever did small jobs with it you should use a fresh air fed full mask for epoxy +little odor comes of it so its hard to detect buildups of fumes .I never had any problems lung wise back neck and shoulders are fooked but that's not the chemicals .I will drop a link in here from a TV program i was in i'm the one in the white overalls hope this helps . ruclips.net/video/5Y7cIA8UgUk/видео.html
Awesome, those plane look more fancy and rigid 😁
Absolutely love that you guys are doing fiberglass birds now!
I Would Love to See A Giant Spitfire Fighting/battling a Giant Messerschmitt/ BF-109
You should use cast material like what is used for broken bones. That stuff is super strong!
plaster impregnated wrap... it's also super heavy....
Pig for a short game, horse for a medium game, and jackass for a long game.
You jut invented a new type of competition, please do more 😂😂
I think the winner here is the community for having a sweet knew way to make these planes
This aint knew its quite owled.
“Think you can do it inverted?”
“Sh..Sure?...”
🤣🤣🤣
The best flite test videos are always the ones that test to destruction!
Fiber glass it at 45 degree's in two layers and it will make it about 3-4 times stronger.
Here's a test of your OWN history FliteTest. February 12, 2012 Josh and Josh. I bought the plane you featured - you had hinted at racing Bed with it. This was the first plane I had reinforced with fiberglass/resin to make the wing better mounted to the fuse because it was so poor. It lasted me a long time until a replacement RX caused catastrophe. What plane was I flying?
Imagine what kinda shenanigans you could get into with a glassed FT Edge 540👍🏽
Hi guys ! First thanks for your work on this channel :) In the boat world, they also use a peel ply that you put on your fiberglass while curing. It helps having a smoother surface to limit the sanding process after that. It should help having a nicer finish. Keep up ;)
Yes this is the good stuff! More modification, testing, and experimental projects!
We won watching you.
I want to see an FFF Eagle fly next! Great video!
Omg that king of random hoodie 👀 love it
I made one with fiberglass and aura5lite and its really worthwhile!. It's extremely nice flying, its durable as they say. I ended up in a tree on my second flight in the "panic-mode" and only lost a winglet. thanks again to flitetest for the inspiration
to build this great flying wing.
these guys are awesome and smart that's why they have a a sponsor like literally every video. :)
Now you need to have a monstersize fiberglass plane dogfight.
A game of horse or pig, yep. Never heard of someone playing cow before, LOL!
Always buy my FT products from my local hobbyshop. (turn 4 hobbies) figures that way I am supporting both Flite test, and the hobby shop! win win!
The was "PIG", or "HORSE" with a basketball...LOL
Ginger, he already has so many famous crashes to his name :D
I am loving the Noah addition to the channel. It is up there with the bixler duo flys, and Alex flying while staring off in a random direction on the FPV.
Re do the corsair and zero battle but make em fiber glassed, that way you don't have to worry about absolute demolishing the zero again.
Maybe put some carbon fiber rods on the weak points so it can be more rigid
What is a typical weight for an FT Arrow and what was the weight of the fiber glassed one?
"heavy" and "even heavier." Don't get me wrong, it's fun to make these foamboard planes but they are far from lightweight lol
You guys are awesome
Never heard of playing C.O.W or P.I.G it was H.O.R.S.E
Make a bomber but make it drop small planes
@Cade Miller no but new like bigger WAY bigger
@Cade Miller not really because each propeller can have its own smalllengine
@Cade Miller 8 and it’s not going to be a paper airplane
Dang you guys are awesome. I go 4 wheeling with. My buddies... we build them.....push them... break them.... fix them.... repeat. Absolutely love your channel. Keep it up brothers you're amazing!!!!!!!
Bring Peter back for a video or two!
@@archivist17 I think Anders (Is that how you spell his name?) is like a summer intern at FliteTest, I think he will be back!
Ginger Power for the Win!!
You guys are thinking outside the box now.
They're indestructible!
You might try to use thin CA instead of resin to stick the glass down. It is much quicker, stiffer, stronger and easier to sand. I used fiberglass and CA along with carbon rod to reinforce and stiffen the wing and tail surfaces of a Multiplex Twin Star so I could use 2 T-motor F80s to power it. That airframe now has 1400 watts on it and is great fun.
Awesome video again! We called the game HORSE
You should impregnate the fiberglass on the bench, squeeze out all the resin and than apply the wet fiber on the wing, you can also make a more refined airfoil shape
You're a great guy, Josh, but I've got to give this one to the Ginger Wonder. ;)
Whenever I need a laugh, I watch the FliteTest channel!
What about taking the paper off the board and glassing right to the foam? Then, pour a little paint thinner inside to melt the foam away leaving only the glass.
The king of random merch tho...XD
Is the brown foam here to stay?! That would make me happy! Quite the fun torture testing! Round two with a kraken would be awesome! I’d love to come fly at edgewater someday!
Love you sir you are doing better work
Flite Fest’s combats are about to get more difficult. 😜
Played Horse ! Pig and Cow too short ! Much love to you guys and your family's !
I challenge you! For your next video, you should build and fly the Mandalorians ship!!! with guns!!!:)
Just bought 2 arrow value bundles and I am looking forward to building and fly them with my daughter's. I think I will go one step further than fiberglass and carbon fibre the arrow for the added strength and oh so cool appearance.
Love the channel and videos, keep it up and you guys should get back to doing more collaborations with Peter.
I am going to the tech channel to see if you get into vacuum bagging! It's the next logical step. Awesome video as usual!!!
I spray my glass cloth very lightly with 3m77 contact adhesive, then stick it down to the model like a decal. Then squeegee the epoxy through the cloth. This jives you an infinite amount of time to make adjustments while it is only adhesive applied.
That’s cool