Bambu Support for PLA Material - Is it actually any good?
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- In my last video I wasn't very impressed with PLA Support Material, but after a few comments instructing me of how it's supposed to be printed, I decided to give it another chance. So here's how it went.
taptic.digital
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#diy #3dprinting #bambu
Just a tip, buy some Bumbu Translucent (clear) PETG to use as support interface. You will barely see any left over bits on models.
@@nucleochemist that’s what I’ve been using and it’s fantastic! They don’t stick together at all and it’s great
Wow, I do not have the same issues and use this product a lot. Perhaps it is my setting that are different then what is recommended. I do set the support material interface however I do not use the other recomended setting i.e. zero interface. since I print a lot with .2 layer hight I use .22 gap and it works great.
@@chrisc9213 interesting, I’ll have to try it with a small gap and see if it helps!
How did it go? @@TapticDigital
weak layer bonds are probably because you weren't purging enough in between the two filaments... if something that doesn't stick to pla gets mixed in with pla, the pla will have trouble sticking to itself layer to layer.
Fun fact, you can find out what the filament is by checking the Bambu Lab MSDS. The "Bambu Support for PLA" filament is 40% TPU and 60% PLA. The "Support for PLA/PETG" is a mix of TPU and PETG, which would probably work better for PLA
Remove it with the help of a heat gun. Then its as good as PETG. However, the PETG may cause colour irregularities along the layers where the support PETG is printed. You would not find this problem with the support material
I'm confused, you said it is a translation issue with bambu but it says right in your own video at 0:30 that this is for SUPPORT INTERFACE not for actual supports. This was my understanding as well.
@@GearSounds yep, and in the video I use it as support interface, which it performs quite poorly. PETG does better
I was sceptical after your video, but after trying it i need to give it to you, this crap is absolute junk and should not be used. I rather have a little worse surface finish than trying to remove this white junk.
I recently bought X1C and it came with the "Support for PLA/PETG". It is much better than this one in the video. It's extremely easy to remove. I'm guessing this is an older version since it looks silver colored, while the one i got is translucent.
@@changeformer yup! They released the new version about a month or two after I got my printer.
I also got some of this support material with my x1c maybe 1.5 years ago or whenever I bought it. I still have most of it, tried to use it once. But like in this video the model snapped in half at that layer. But I don't think it's cause it cooled down, if it was it would also happen when you use multiple colors. Which I'm pretty sure is not the case. This support material seems to severely weaken the layer adhesion when it gets mixed in with regular PLA while at the same time fusing to the model in some spots and being impossible to remove.
@@atnfn that was my other issue, because it had to do a filament change it allowed the previous layer to cool more than others. So you end up with a visible line on the print of the layers that cooled differently.
thanks for this video, I got a free roll of it with the x1 combo, guess I'll just use the spool for the refill orders of PETG :)
@@BojanSusic-qi4qn that’s what I’m doing and the results are amazing!
Good video! Thank you!!
Interesting. I've had (mostly) very positive experiences with that stuff. I don't bother using it if printing in PLA-CF (eSun) or PLA Metal (Bambu), as those supports seem to break away without any real effort. I suspect your troubles were largely due to the fact that the Master Chief miniature is pretty intricate. I've mainly used it on very flat overhangs. I recently used a bunch of it on a clock I designed for my office that needed a ton of support in the back because of my lousy (in terms of printability) design. Clock looks great, ran in one shot out of the AMS, so no need to glue/assemble, but the supports were a lot. Yes, there was a bit of scraping to get the more difficult bits off, but I found that once I got a good bit started, a bunch came with it. Like you, my first times out were using it for the full support, and it wasn't great. When I changed to the interface-only, with 0 z-gap and holding up actual flat surfaces, it's great. So, a mixed bag? Yeah, probably.
I have some PLA support that came with my x1c, over a year ago... LOL never used it... used petg when needed on "crazy" supports.. but normally use the same support as the print and just deal with it... I do have some PVA that i have yet to try... I wonder! could be your next video LOL
@@jakeMTSU water-soluble supports feel like magic when they work
top z hight in support settings set it to 0.273 makes it easier to get off
That's why higher end 3d printers (Stratsys F-series) uses two nozzles at the same time, one for the pla, and one support material, then a vat to chemically melt away the support, but at $70k and above it wasn't in my budget. I also made the mistake of purchasing support material when I first bought my X1C, but after watching this will probably never use it. Great video, thanks !
@@timl9495 I’d still buy 50 Bambus over a Stratysis to be honest.
Be aware there are 2 products for PLA supports from Bambu Lab! One is pretty old (came with the printer) and does not work very good. Seems like you have that. And the new one just works. Link to their website is broken right now else I would put the link in here.
@@DanielSchweinert I still need to try their new version and see if it actually works, until then I’ve been pretty happy with PETG as a support interface
@@TapticDigital I suspect it is PETG :-) since it's advertised for PLA & PETG as support material. LOL
I would offer one more suggestion that helped me print better with this material. Purge values; this helped reduce the mixing of materials at the interface and prevented my models from developing weak spots from cross material contamination. Using a value of 750 switching to and from “support pla” material made the model quality similar to my build plate and the interface peeled off without tools (although with more force needed then a petg interface)
@@TheFunVampire yesss this is the kind of scientific approach I need to be trying, I’ll give that one a try thank you!
@@TapticDigital good luck!! 👍
The PVA support material has to be submerged in water. It dissolves in water giving you a clean breakof
@@Waneklap that would work, if it were actually PVA. Compared it to PVA from Makerbot, bambu support wasn’t affected after 12hrs in water while the Makerbot PVA was completely gone.
@@TapticDigital I used Bambu Lab PVA support material last week for the first time. Used it as a support interface material only, the rest of the model and support structure was printed in BL PLA Metallic. I used the PVA fresh out of the bag, no drying, which resulted in some severe spider webbing at the top of my model, a Pythagorean tree. After printing I just dunked the model, while still on the PEI sheet, in a bowl of water for a workday. The spider webbing had completely dissolved and the other support came of real easy. Any remaining PVA stuck to the model I could easily rub off with my thumb. It was a good experience.
Arent you supposed to disolve the support for pla in water?
@@Jirisvejda6 nope, I had at first thought it was just PVA which would dissolve, but after sitting in a cup of water overnight it did nothing
I am going through the same learning pains right now. PLA support works... but only marginally better than just printing in all PLA with all the issues you're pointing out now. I'm going to go place PETG order now.. begrudgingly. Nice video, thanks for sharing your findings.
Despite what I said in the video, I still haven’t full given up. But I am quite disappointed each time I try.
@@TapticDigital Same here haha. I'm working on a model that has several delicate features that are also overhangs (a non-ideal combo) and even manually setting the support locations to minimize the amount of contact the features are breaking off so I started to investigate a different support methods. The story seems pretty consistent across all avenues though that PETG is worth a shot so I'm going to try it out this weekend hopefully when my PETG spool arrives. I can share my results here for posterity. I think PLA support has its applications, but if you are doing anything with delicate features or considerable overhangs it appears that PETG may be a better (and seemingly cheaper) solution.
How long did you soak it in water?
I tried 24hrs in water, and 24hr in a dryer
Is the Bambu support for pla supposed to be dissolved in water or is that something else
Nope! I actually tested it in water as well as alcohol, just to rule it out. It does make it separate from PLA easier, but where it does stick it stays quite firm
@@TapticDigital good to know. I saw this filament in my box and I always thought it might be useless. Now I know! Good video
@@TapticDigital Rookie mistake, you have to drink the alcohol to suppress the feelings from the bad support material.
Hi, great video. can you please redo the test but this time, supposedly the best way to remove them is to dunk the whole thing in warm water for 24 hours (lol I know)
@@trickpixel I’m way too impatient to wait for that! I did try a good 12 hour soak of some of the support material but it made almost no effect. Might redo this video with even more testing based on the comments I’ve gotten
@@TapticDigital Does that mean your'e drinking the alcohol this time?
I will try this support material for supporting model printed of PETG. Will come back with the results.
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I think the PETG ate him
@@TapticDigitalI feel called out. I haven't got around trying it yet :)