Yvonne, it’s not just Harman Phoenix that benefits from moderate overexposure, it’s (virtually) ALL color negative film. If you, then, want to reduce contrast, develop for less time with less agitation. Either way, the result is finer grain, greater shadow detail and richer highlight detail. Look into it.
Tip 1. Purchase 50-100 rolls of 120 Tmax 100 or illford FP4 and get a developing kit and chemicals to develop your own B&W film. Then make sure your Yashica is always loaded with film. Because at 40 or so rolls shot your brain will evolve into a very good light meter. BTW, I started shooting meterless in 1973 using a Kodak handout booklet as a guide, so I have been there done that. With negative films over exposure is the smartest approach so if you are in doubt do a backup over exposed by 1 stop. If you are shooting slides underexposure is best. I'll also note that I use a flatbed scanner for my 120 and 4x5 films, because I can employ resolutions of the images that are higher than what you will get using a camera. In my experience I've found that 10,000 x 10,000 scans are near optimum for 120, for 4x5 film I like to start at 16,000 x 20,000 pixels for the initial detail edits then downsize to 10,000 x 12,500. Tip 2. Keep your eyes open for the Mamiya TLR camera bodies, either the C220 or C330. They are an interchangeable Lens camera and the 65mm 80mm and 135mm lens sets I have are stunning in regards to sharpness. Yes there is a learning curve to these cameras but it's not at all difficult and use of these cameras will build habits that keep you out of the Gotcha's. Such as forgetting to shift the lens release to LOCKED after swapping lenses, Finally I love your enthusiasm but you are a bit beyond frenetic. Cut out those energy drinks because they are bad for your heart and as someone with Heart Disease I can tell you the time to start looking after your heart is NOW. Also take the time to simply enjoy your youth and everything around you. Instead of always rushing about sit down in a park on occasion to simply take in a blue sky, green growing grass, trees is full foliage, and the feeling of the sun on your face.
I'm loving the results I'm seeing from Phoenix in 120! And yours certainly adds to that! Glad that you got to test out the 120 version and enjoy the Yashica 124G! My first TLR was the older Yashica 12, then I went to the Rolleiflex and haven't looked back on the format since. As for the pronunciation of Yashica, it's the same as what people are saying about Nikon.
Hey Yvonne, thank you for the review, and great shots! I use the CineStill CS-LITE with the Valoi 360 120 Film Holder for scanning medium format, and I’m really pleased with the results. The film holder just fits directly onto the CS-LITE, making the setup very solid for the cost. There are also scanning masks for the holder that let you scan formats like 6x6 and 645, although I can’t speak to them as I have only shot 6x9. Hope that helps!
+1 for the cs-lite and valoi 360! I use the 120 and 35 kits and love how fast I can blast through a roll. The cs-lite also has temperature options, which would help a ton for the bluish Phoenix base.
My scanning setup is pretty bootleg, but it works. I bolted a steel pipe to a wood cutting board and I attached one of those camera clamps. I place the negatives between two small glass plates with a mask on the top one, and I put that on a very cheap LED panel. Don't think it cost me more than €20.
one recommendation, if your local library, or such has access to an Epson V850 or the like, scan it with that, I have shot Kodak Gold 200 in 6x12 on LF and 6x6 and both scan great (provided you expose properly), My meter of choice is a Sekonic L28-C2 {No batteries required, it runs on the meters' own measurement cell}but a caution if you get one, they are studio meters, but have a 'slide' in the metering head, like in-board filter draws in enlargers, controlling the light that the sensor sees, this meter is inherently light sensitive, such that a "high slide" is a necessity to shoot outdoors in summer or spring, (EV 12 and up); and for studio use several asa slides are provided in a second pouch with it; it goes without saying having a complete kit of these is invaluable, esp. that HIGH slide! if one is to use this outdoors, and after several goes, it works fine. Point it at the camera, not the scene, and don't be afraid of stopping down an F-stop or two, esp. if, like my LF camera it goes to F-64 !! better diffraction performance than an slr, more so at f22 and stopped down further, TRUST the meter, you will 'see' the light in time.
I modeled in Blender a super simple film holder for 120 and 35 mm and 3d printed the parts and I use a led light with a silicon diffuser. It’s probably the cheapest way to scan my rolls.
@@davidchapman5058 aye thank you so much! And I'm glad you like the strap!! It's from My Fave Straps, a Canadian strap brand! They have all kinds of beautiful ones
wow, looking how you scan your negatives I must say you are getting good results but I do hope a company reaches out to give you a setup that look a bit more stable :) your energy on the videos is always top
I also shot a roll of Phoenix in 120 in Vancouver this week on a Pentax 645n; both daytime and night shots. The night shots are super funky on this film.
Great photos. If you want to scan, you can create your own light box using a bright bulb in a box. If you want the sunlight to be used to illuminate, use the same box and hang it against the window. Also, binder clips are your best friend for film. The sunlight to illuminate won't make much of a difference if you have extremely strong bulbs.
re: DSLR scanning 120, Valoi is working on their solution. I've been super happy with their Easy35 and imagine that the 120 setup would be similarly great. Also "YEAH-shuh-kuh" is growing on me 😛
I'm really getting interested in Harman after watching more and more videos about it. I guess it's getting time to try it out. Concering a DSLR scanning setup, I recently started scanning myself using my Sony DSLM and my tripot. The only thing I bought was the Lomo Digitaliza+ and I'm quite happy with it. I checked out many different scanning options for example the equipment from negative supply and valoi, but beeing broke these really aren't the options I was looking for because expecially the negative supply stuff looks super well build and fun to use, but holy sh*t is it expensive. The Lomo digitalzia+ is quite affordable and in the base kit you get scanning masks for 120 and 135 (with or without sprockets), so quite handy I think.
After this video I will give a second chance to Phoenix. I tried it in 35mm and didn't like the dark zones, they're too dark. But your experience to set it 125ASA looks the right waumy to use it, so I will try once more, very soon, in 35mm, to compare. Next on 120. I feel full empathy with the Harmann team, and I always use Ilford when shootingin b&w, either Delta 100 or 400, depending on the forecast. Also, XP2 400, scanned in b&w. Regards
Yay you finally got to try the Yashica out. The 124G is such a gorgeous camera, I love mine. Oh, and there also is Metropolis 120, that one is really cool too btw. 😊
I've been happy with the Valoi 360 system for scanning 120 so far. I have the second-most-basic kit, so I have to use a separate tripod. That slows down the setup a bit, but regardless it's a great system. All the components can be bought separately, so I might get some upgrades later.
Good to know how you feel about this 120 film. I also have a Yashica Mat 124G. This has inspired me to get this film and use my TLR more! Also, the strap that is on it sitting by the window. Do you have info on where you got it. Really enjoying your channel. @2moonsphotography
6:00 ya-shuh-kuh is correct, even google says so! Most westerners pronounce it yuh-shee-kuh, but that's wrong because that pronounciation would be spelled Yashiica (double i = "ee" sound)
Overexposing =/= pulling, but I also do it your way usually just for convenience in the darkroom. I.e. just shooting it at 125 then normal dev. Which is just "over"exposing (I think Harman has admitted it's a 125 film, actually). Pulling would be if you overexposed and then also under-developed below normal, which actually works better for Phoenix, but it might cost more at a lab, and if you develop at home, it means you can't just toss it in the can with every other film stock. But if you're willing to do so, try 60-80 ISO and then develop at -1 pull (following times and instructions for your home kit for a 1 stop pull, or writing "-1" on it for the lab). Also put a weight on the bottom of the strip of scanned film at least haha (though overall a pretty decent setup honestly, other than the light being not-white). Like a sandwich bag clip with some string holding something somewhat heavy
Your camera got mad at your pronunciation of “Yashica” and decided to miss focus 😂. In all honesty I am also hesitant to shoot medium format because honestly 35 mm is expensive enough. Is it worth the money would you say?
Definitely the cheapest way that can still produce good results. I don't love it for 120 but it works and costs next to nothing in comparison to all the $$$$ stuff out there.
@@AardvarkAdventure I imagine it's better than hanging the negatives in front of a window lol. I like mine and don't really feel the need to upgrade until I start doing large format
Thanks for the vid. Very cool. But way too pricey. Anything over 9-10 bucks USD is way too expensive here in Japan. I can get imported film locally for 7-8 dollars and Harman is not one of them. Unfortunately to make film photography worth the cost, the film and processing has to be cheap.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for taking the time to test this for us Yvonne and for putting this together:)
@@HARMANPhoto thanks for trusting me with it!!! I hope you like the photos 🥰
Ive watched a TON of Harmon 120 influencer content over the last few days, and your photos are definitely the best.
@@Fat-totoro-cat ayee complements like these keep me going hahaha
Yvonne, it’s not just Harman Phoenix that benefits from moderate overexposure, it’s (virtually) ALL color negative film. If you, then, want to reduce contrast, develop for less time with less agitation. Either way, the result is finer grain, greater shadow detail and richer highlight detail. Look into it.
This was so incredibly helpful! I shot this before, but now I have a better idea as to how to take advantage of the film quirks.
Just shot my first roll in 35 and quite liked it. So excited to hear they are doing 120 because I just got an rb67 and loooove shooting with it
I wanna get a rb67 or pentax67 for a long time. Cant decide. Shooting 6x6 for over a year
@@Raumweiter I really like my rb67, but it’s definitely quirky. From what I hear the Pentax is more like an slr but I’ve never actually shot one
Tip 1. Purchase 50-100 rolls of 120 Tmax 100 or illford FP4 and get a developing kit and chemicals to develop your own B&W film. Then make sure your Yashica is always loaded with film. Because at 40 or so rolls shot your brain will evolve into a very good light meter. BTW, I started shooting meterless in 1973 using a Kodak handout booklet as a guide, so I have been there done that. With negative films over exposure is the smartest approach so if you are in doubt do a backup over exposed by 1 stop. If you are shooting slides underexposure is best. I'll also note that I use a flatbed scanner for my 120 and 4x5 films, because I can employ resolutions of the images that are higher than what you will get using a camera. In my experience I've found that 10,000 x 10,000 scans are near optimum for 120, for 4x5 film I like to start at 16,000 x 20,000 pixels for the initial detail edits then downsize to 10,000 x 12,500.
Tip 2. Keep your eyes open for the Mamiya TLR camera bodies, either the C220 or C330. They are an interchangeable Lens camera and the 65mm 80mm and 135mm lens sets I have are stunning in regards to sharpness. Yes there is a learning curve to these cameras but it's not at all difficult and use of these cameras will build habits that keep you out of the Gotcha's. Such as forgetting to shift the lens release to LOCKED after swapping lenses,
Finally I love your enthusiasm but you are a bit beyond frenetic. Cut out those energy drinks because they are bad for your heart and as someone with Heart Disease I can tell you the time to start looking after your heart is NOW. Also take the time to simply enjoy your youth and everything around you. Instead of always rushing about sit down in a park on occasion to simply take in a blue sky, green growing grass, trees is full foliage, and the feeling of the sun on your face.
I’m so glad you got to do this. Those shots were gorgeous!
Thanks Yvonne. Entertaining as ever.
Looks good. I've had really good results when pulling Phoenix by one stop. It does just a little bit to help knock down the contrast a bit.
I'm loving the results I'm seeing from Phoenix in 120! And yours certainly adds to that! Glad that you got to test out the 120 version and enjoy the Yashica 124G! My first TLR was the older Yashica 12, then I went to the Rolleiflex and haven't looked back on the format since. As for the pronunciation of Yashica, it's the same as what people are saying about Nikon.
Hey Yvonne, thank you for the review, and great shots! I use the CineStill CS-LITE with the Valoi 360 120 Film Holder for scanning medium format, and I’m really pleased with the results. The film holder just fits directly onto the CS-LITE, making the setup very solid for the cost. There are also scanning masks for the holder that let you scan formats like 6x6 and 645, although I can’t speak to them as I have only shot 6x9. Hope that helps!
+1 for the cs-lite and valoi 360! I use the 120 and 35 kits and love how fast I can blast through a roll. The cs-lite also has temperature options, which would help a ton for the bluish Phoenix base.
that scanning setup wow ;p
Great video! Have to try this film!
My scanning setup is pretty bootleg, but it works. I bolted a steel pipe to a wood cutting board and I attached one of those camera clamps. I place the negatives between two small glass plates with a mask on the top one, and I put that on a very cheap LED panel. Don't think it cost me more than €20.
one recommendation, if your local library, or such has access to an Epson V850 or the like, scan it with that, I have shot Kodak Gold 200 in 6x12 on LF and 6x6 and both scan great (provided you expose properly), My meter of choice is a Sekonic L28-C2 {No batteries required, it runs on the meters' own measurement cell}but a caution if you get one, they are studio meters, but have a 'slide' in the metering head, like in-board filter draws in enlargers, controlling the light that the sensor sees, this meter is inherently light sensitive, such that a "high slide" is a necessity to shoot outdoors in summer or spring, (EV 12 and up); and for studio use several asa slides are provided in a second pouch with it; it goes without saying having a complete kit of these is invaluable, esp. that HIGH slide! if one is to use this outdoors, and after several goes, it works fine.
Point it at the camera, not the scene, and don't be afraid of stopping down an F-stop or two, esp. if, like my LF camera it goes to F-64 !! better diffraction performance than an slr, more so at f22 and stopped down further, TRUST the meter, you will 'see' the light in time.
Would love to know what you use to stick the photos on the wall, is it blutack or tape?
OoOooh perfect timing; I just bought my first roll of this stuff (35mm)! GREAT shots 👍
I modeled in Blender a super simple film holder for 120 and 35 mm and 3d printed the parts and I use a led light with a silicon diffuser. It’s probably the cheapest way to scan my rolls.
Thank you Yvonne, excited there is a new 120 film out, love the photos. 🥰
Where did you get that camera strap! i love it so much, thanks for making such great content, you have such a captivating presence.
@@davidchapman5058 aye thank you so much! And I'm glad you like the strap!! It's from My Fave Straps, a Canadian strap brand! They have all kinds of beautiful ones
wow, looking how you scan your negatives I must say you are getting good results but I do hope a company reaches out to give you a setup that look a bit more stable :)
your energy on the videos is always top
Love the lake shots, Yvonne! Very impressive how you eyeballed so many of your shots and they came out so well 👏👏👏
@@analog_cafe aye thank you!!! THAT PRAISE IS WHY I LIKE EYEBALLING THEM hahahaha
You are so talented, ❤ thx u
I also shot a roll of Phoenix in 120 in Vancouver this week on a Pentax 645n; both daytime and night shots. The night shots are super funky on this film.
Great photos.
If you want to scan, you can create your own light box using a bright bulb in a box. If you want the sunlight to be used to illuminate, use the same box and hang it against the window. Also, binder clips are your best friend for film. The sunlight to illuminate won't make much of a difference if you have extremely strong bulbs.
re: DSLR scanning 120, Valoi is working on their solution. I've been super happy with their Easy35 and imagine that the 120 setup would be similarly great. Also "YEAH-shuh-kuh" is growing on me 😛
Nice work! Your backlit portraits turned out great 🙂
LONG LIVE HARMON PHOENIX!
great video, good job, esp. for a first timer.
Good info! Thanks
How do you plan to scan 120 with a DSLR? I couldn't find a good adapter yet. It's also one of the reason I am still shooting 35mm only.
at least you can use such lightmeter app on your phone :P it really really improves your negatives.
I would love for Harman to start selling Phoenix in 110 format. I have a feeling that the grain with the halation should produce dreamy effects.
Vancouver and Burnaby public libraries have pretty good scanners that you can use if you have a library card (which is free).
I'm really getting interested in Harman after watching more and more videos about it. I guess it's getting time to try it out.
Concering a DSLR scanning setup, I recently started scanning myself using my Sony DSLM and my tripot. The only thing I bought was the Lomo Digitaliza+ and I'm quite happy with it. I checked out many different scanning options for example the equipment from negative supply and valoi, but beeing broke these really aren't the options I was looking for because expecially the negative supply stuff looks super well build and fun to use, but holy sh*t is it expensive. The Lomo digitalzia+ is quite affordable and in the base kit you get scanning masks for 120 and 135 (with or without sprockets), so quite handy I think.
After this video I will give a second chance to Phoenix. I tried it in 35mm and didn't like the dark zones, they're too dark.
But your experience to set it 125ASA looks the right waumy to use it, so I will try once more, very soon, in 35mm, to compare. Next on 120.
I feel full empathy with the Harmann team, and I always use Ilford when shootingin b&w, either Delta 100 or 400, depending on the forecast. Also, XP2 400, scanned in b&w. Regards
Yay you finally got to try the Yashica out. The 124G is such a gorgeous camera, I love mine. Oh, and there also is Metropolis 120, that one is really cool too btw. 😊
I've been happy with the Valoi 360 system for scanning 120 so far. I have the second-most-basic kit, so I have to use a separate tripod. That slows down the setup a bit, but regardless it's a great system. All the components can be bought separately, so I might get some upgrades later.
Good to know how you feel about this 120 film. I also have a Yashica Mat 124G. This has inspired me to get this film and use my TLR more! Also, the strap that is on it sitting by the window. Do you have info on where you got it. Really enjoying your channel. @2moonsphotography
@@videobyjnt heya thank you so much for watching! The strap is from My Fave Straps, a Canadian company! They're distributed by Flic Film!
6:00 ya-shuh-kuh is correct, even google says so! Most westerners pronounce it yuh-shee-kuh, but that's wrong because that pronounciation would be spelled Yashiica (double i = "ee" sound)
You can start by buying yourself a low cost
Overexposing =/= pulling, but I also do it your way usually just for convenience in the darkroom. I.e. just shooting it at 125 then normal dev. Which is just "over"exposing (I think Harman has admitted it's a 125 film, actually). Pulling would be if you overexposed and then also under-developed below normal, which actually works better for Phoenix, but it might cost more at a lab, and if you develop at home, it means you can't just toss it in the can with every other film stock. But if you're willing to do so, try 60-80 ISO and then develop at -1 pull (following times and instructions for your home kit for a 1 stop pull, or writing "-1" on it for the lab).
Also put a weight on the bottom of the strip of scanned film at least haha (though overall a pretty decent setup honestly, other than the light being not-white). Like a sandwich bag clip with some string holding something somewhat heavy
May or may not have seen the first upload 😅 Think i'll get a roll of 120 as it seems a little better than 135. Omg the scanning setup is great
Nope, the forecast is... winter is coming, fast. I guess I'll have to wait until the next summer 🥶
Wait so is it a new film stock or just Kodak Vision respolled? Cause if it’s just Kodak xx respolled and sold at a premium price that’s just sad
completely new film stock. Not respooled.
Your camera got mad at your pronunciation of “Yashica” and decided to miss focus 😂. In all honesty I am also hesitant to shoot medium format because honestly 35 mm is expensive enough. Is it worth the money would you say?
@@LewganAirsoft I think it is well worth it! And the rolls are slightly cheaper...you just get fewer frames so you gotta care more about each image!
真的长在了我的审美之上
This did not unhide itself from my watch list 😆
1st from 2 days ago
I was so excited all day long to watch...and then...poof.
Now I can get excited again today.
Déjà vu....
Epson perfection 600, 700 or 850. 😉
Digitaliza
Definitely the cheapest way that can still produce good results. I don't love it for 120 but it works and costs next to nothing in comparison to all the $$$$ stuff out there.
@@AardvarkAdventure I imagine it's better than hanging the negatives in front of a window lol. I like mine and don't really feel the need to upgrade until I start doing large format
Thanks for the vid. Very cool. But way too pricey. Anything over 9-10 bucks USD is way too expensive here in Japan. I can get imported film locally for 7-8 dollars and Harman is not one of them. Unfortunately to make film photography worth the cost, the film and processing has to be cheap.
Thanks for pronouncing yashica correctly
Japanese pronunciation doesn't emphasize any syllable, so your pronunciation is correct. Unlike you, I don't like halation. Just natural colors.
Get a light meter 😂
they sent 7 rolls? now this is what i call a test! @HARMANPhoto thx