Elin thanks for the mention but like you say it is what it is I just like to see more of the wheel well filled maybe the tire size I just enjoy the vids my car sits at the same height .
Depending where the spring is on the suspension 1/2" at the spring will Multiply at the wheel end also you should meaaure from the center of the wheel to the lower part of the arch lip to check the ride hight as tour floor my not be level or a tyre pressure may be low and roll the car back and forth so the tyre can move out and settle the suspension still good content in the vid keep it up. Ps try putting a spacer under the seat belt upper bit at it may be binding on the wheel arch
More coils on a spring = softer compression. Makes sense if you look at the winding coil...less tightly wound, the metal "rod" is more in line with the direction of compression, while more tightly wound coil puts the metal more closer to 90 degrees from the direction of compression. Much easier to bend something by applying force at 90 degrees to its axis versus along /parallel to its axis. Not sure how you have those mount brackets...you said they are already at the lower position. If that means the upper mount point is closer to the ground, that seems wrong. To get the car body to lower, the upper mount point needs to be further from the ground.
Yes, that makes perfect sense about the springs! About the brackets, I meant in the lower position for the car, which means the holes are higher, which brings the trailing arm higher and the chassis lower.
Just starting restoration of my "74 TR6. Very helpful videos. Question: When reinstalling the seat tracks, is there additional space that can be used to move the tracks backwards to give more leg room? Thx.
Willl Davis I think there are a few inches still available behind the seat to the shelf, but the problem is the lever at the door side of the seat hits the B-post and limits your travel. There is no room to move the seat inwards, towards the driveshaft tunnel either. The only way is to get rid of that lever, but I’ve never done it so I don’t guarantee it will work :) Good luck with your 74!
bullwhip johnson I had a similar problem on my VW Eos - it worked for me - there was very little transfer onto my clothes - I used a pure Silicone spray.
There is a special belt spray for seatbelts. It works great and leaves absolutely no transfer on your clothes. You could also choose to install a 1/2" bushing under the beltfiting on top of the wheel well.
The retractor itself works great. It is from a modern car after all. The problem is where the belt is rubbing against the leather on the wheel well. I added a seat belt guides under the headrests later and that helped a little for the angle. Not so sharp anymore. There is still some restriction, but nothing to worry about.
Yeah, I thought so, but it is funny they don't let go when I place them vertically by a plaster wall. That is why I thought there was a magnet inside. They release right away when they are by the metal door frame ?!?
That left hand side we'll is out of shape it goes to be Centre centre of the wheel arch between the axle it is too far back where you got your hand roughly about centre of the wheel arch between the centre of the wheel
Good video, thanks.
FWIW, my 1974 TR6 rides at 28 1/16" height at the back wheels.
The car is looking great, fantastic work.
Thanks!
hi elin nice video really enjoyed it, bob in uk
Elin thanks for the mention but like you say it is what it is I just like to see more of the wheel well filled maybe the tire size I just enjoy the vids my car sits at the same height .
Depending where the spring is on the suspension 1/2" at the spring will Multiply at the wheel end also you should meaaure from the center of the wheel to the lower part of the arch lip to check the ride hight as tour floor my not be level or a tyre pressure may be low and roll the car back and forth so the tyre can move out and settle the suspension still good content in the vid keep it up. Ps try putting a spacer under the seat belt upper bit at it may be binding on the wheel arch
U iz duen a fine yob ma' man. (translation; you are doing a good job Elin.)
regarding the belts .. i removed them because they dont work proper.
More coils on a spring = softer compression. Makes sense if you look at the winding coil...less tightly wound, the metal "rod" is more in line with the direction of compression, while more tightly wound coil puts the metal more closer to 90 degrees from the direction of compression. Much easier to bend something by applying force at 90 degrees to its axis versus along /parallel to its axis.
Not sure how you have those mount brackets...you said they are already at the lower position. If that means the upper mount point is closer to the ground, that seems wrong. To get the car body to lower, the upper mount point needs to be further from the ground.
Yes, that makes perfect sense about the springs! About the brackets, I meant in the lower position for the car, which means the holes are higher, which brings the trailing arm higher and the chassis lower.
Just starting restoration of my "74 TR6. Very helpful videos. Question: When reinstalling the seat tracks, is there additional space that can be used to move the tracks backwards to give more leg room? Thx.
Willl Davis I think there are a few inches still available behind the seat to the shelf, but the problem is the lever at the door side of the seat hits the B-post and limits your travel. There is no room to move the seat inwards, towards the driveshaft tunnel either. The only way is to get rid of that lever, but I’ve never done it so I don’t guarantee it will work :) Good luck with your 74!
Try Silicone spray on the seatbelt webbing to get the belt retract more easily
I thought about that too. But, whatever you might use to lubricate the belt will probably end up on your clothes.
bullwhip johnson I had a similar problem on my VW Eos - it worked for me - there was very little transfer onto my clothes - I used a pure Silicone spray.
I think it just needs a more direct line. The bulk of the upholstered material seems to be pinching the belt. Between the loop and the spool.
There is a special belt spray for seatbelts. It works great and leaves absolutely no transfer on your clothes. You could also choose to install a 1/2" bushing under the beltfiting on top of the wheel well.
The retractor itself works great. It is from a modern car after all. The problem is where the belt is rubbing against the leather on the wheel well. I added a seat belt guides under the headrests later and that helped a little for the angle. Not so sharp anymore. There is still some restriction, but nothing to worry about.
Interesting about the retractable seat belt needing to be near metal
Mike Jackman thay dont thay just need to be 100% vertical
Yeah, I thought so, but it is funny they don't let go when I place them vertically by a plaster wall. That is why I thought there was a magnet inside. They release right away when they are by the metal door frame ?!?
That left hand side we'll is out of shape it goes to be Centre centre of the wheel arch between the axle it is too far back where you got your hand roughly about centre of the wheel arch between the centre of the wheel
First!