I appreciate this. A TR6 just came into my possession provided I can get it working. I need to either refurbish or replace the Armstrong suspension so vids like this are helpful to an inexperienced "mechanic" like me. Still not sure what to do yet
Very cool description of this upgrade. Thanks for going over tank removal; if my non-PI is similar, I'll be doing this in the coming months to replace some hoses. On the bushing that you are using- the shop that upgraded my car didn't use enough poly lube, and they squealch when hitting bumps and did so right away. I spray them down with lithium lube, and that works for a little while.
Thanks again John for the Input. glad you like the video. The tank removal isn't a big job, probably about an hour. Just remember its heavy and awkward if you've got any fuel left in it. Best to drain off what you can first.
Great series - very enjoyable. Probably worth underlining that the original Armstrong lever arm dampers do an excellent job at the rear when they're in good condition. They are adjustable, either by changing the valves or by increasing the viscosity of the hydraulic oil. I eliminated the 'squat' by fitting uprated versions of the Armstrongs, filling them with motorcycle fork oil and replacing the bushes witjh polybushes.
Great video! My brother has #2 on his 73, (and the adjustable trailing arm mounts) but always worries about them. Many mechanics advise to stay away from them. One description I heard was that the tube shock's travel is straight up/down while the OEM lever shock's travel is a slight arch, and is as the TR engineers intended. Many folks have experienced cracks in the frame. My mechanic advised to replace the levers oil with Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak and should have an amazing result for a simple rebuild-in-a-can. I plan to try this in the near future. Need to pull them off to remove all the existing oil and if the Lucas doesn't seem to work, a rebuild it's supposed to be pretty straightforward. I tend to lean towards OEM. Really enjoying your channel!
Thanks for the feedback and some great points you make. lots of choice available to help with the 'squat' rear end the TR6 is known for. Stiffening up the rear end dampers however its done is well worth the effort
@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349 Here's something funny. I've owned mine for 30+ years, but a previous owner put simple spacers in the rear springs and I've never had a squat issue. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Very interesting and thanks for your whole series which really help the owner. I purchased a TR6 that had been set up for track days and has quite a reverse camber . It was a really great handling car on the corners. However i found the tyres were contacting the shock (Type one conversion) and would occasionally cause a great bang at the back as the wheel snatched at the suspension!! I bought brand new Armstrong lever arm shocks and removed the old shocks to find the inner gaurd had cracked at the top "mount", so I caution anyone trying this cheap route to fitting tele shocks. AS well I found that the spring cushion rubbers were missing at one end so replaced all that back to stock. The result was I feel the rear end steers the car on bumps now to a significant amount now. Not sure if I can improve this with different oil. Or perhaps I will be back to a type 2 or 3 conversion. Thanks again.
Have a look at the 4th 125-150 conversion video where the engine gets rebuilt. in summary you time the metering unit buy checking the MU hole on injector 6 output when the engine is at TDC. you can find this online aswell if you look hard enough as its in the workshop manual. its a must read before as you refit it an get ready to start up for the first time. good luck
I know this is completely going to drive every enthusiast crazy and I apologize in advance haha I got my dads 69 tr6 now and it’s been sitting in the garage for 30 years super clean car all original zero rust. But I’m wanting to put my own taste into the car make it a fun cruising show car and mow when I want it to be and not so low when cursing the interstate. So I’m thinking about going with air bag suspension. In theory can I run air bags in the rear with out the spring? Since air bags have everything integrated?
@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349 I will for sure video it, I’ve seen the Toyota ae86 is the same suspension set up in the rear as the tr after the strut conversion so I’m up in the air on bags or maybe one piece coils may Frankenstein a set of something together!
Great video! I am in the process of fitting type 3 to my TR6. I can't find what torque to tighten the 9/16 nuts at the top and bottom of the shock. Can you help? thanks
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful. There is no defined torque here as you are tightening against the rubber bump stops. Poly bushes would probably take more torque than std rubber ones. I tighten enough to lightly squash the rubber bushes leaving no movement so there is no play in the shock. You can double nut or use a nyloc nut or loctite to be sure won’t come loose . Good luck with the upgrade 👍
@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349 thanks for the prompt reply. Your videos have been really helpful since I got my TR6. Your well prepared and presented format is a really good way to convey information.
High thanks for all your help, I have purchased a vacuum gauge for doing the timing. Seeing you're an MG man I have a 1955 mg tf 1500 aswell.
I appreciate this. A TR6 just came into my possession provided I can get it working. I need to either refurbish or replace the Armstrong suspension so vids like this are helpful to an inexperienced "mechanic" like me. Still not sure what to do yet
Thanks for watching. Good luck whatever you choose
Good explanation thank you, I'm now going out to the garage to look at my TR6 to see what setup i've got!!
a pleasure . glad to have helped and thanks for watching
Very cool description of this upgrade. Thanks for going over tank removal; if my non-PI is similar, I'll be doing this in the coming months to replace some hoses. On the bushing that you are using- the shop that upgraded my car didn't use enough poly lube, and they squealch when hitting bumps and did so right away. I spray them down with lithium lube, and that works for a little while.
Thanks again John for the Input. glad you like the video. The tank removal isn't a big job, probably about an hour. Just remember its heavy and awkward if you've got any fuel left in it. Best to drain off what you can first.
@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349 Thanks!
Great series - very enjoyable. Probably worth underlining that the original Armstrong lever arm dampers do an excellent job at the rear when they're in good condition. They are adjustable, either by changing the valves or by increasing the viscosity of the hydraulic oil. I eliminated the 'squat' by fitting uprated versions of the Armstrongs, filling them with motorcycle fork oil and replacing the bushes witjh polybushes.
Great point! thanks for the input
Wow very instructional video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, really appreciated
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! My brother has #2 on his 73, (and the adjustable trailing arm mounts) but always worries about them. Many mechanics advise to stay away from them. One description I heard was that the tube shock's travel is straight up/down while the OEM lever shock's travel is a slight arch, and is as the TR engineers intended. Many folks have experienced cracks in the frame. My mechanic advised to replace the levers oil with Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak and should have an amazing result for a simple rebuild-in-a-can. I plan to try this in the near future. Need to pull them off to remove all the existing oil and if the Lucas doesn't seem to work, a rebuild it's supposed to be pretty straightforward. I tend to lean towards OEM. Really enjoying your channel!
Thanks for the feedback and some great points you make. lots of choice available to help with the 'squat' rear end the TR6 is known for. Stiffening up the rear end dampers however its done is well worth the effort
@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349 Here's something funny. I've owned mine for 30+ years, but a previous owner put simple spacers in the rear springs and I've never had a squat issue. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
Very interesting and thanks for your whole series which really help the owner. I purchased a TR6 that had been set up for track days and has quite a reverse camber . It was a really great handling car on the corners. However i found the tyres were contacting the shock (Type one conversion) and would occasionally cause a great bang at the back as the wheel snatched at the suspension!! I bought brand new Armstrong lever arm shocks and removed the old shocks to find the inner gaurd had cracked at the top "mount", so I caution anyone trying this cheap route to fitting tele shocks. AS well I found that the spring cushion rubbers were missing at one end so replaced all that back to stock. The result was I feel the rear end steers the car on bumps now to a significant amount now. Not sure if I can improve this with different oil. Or perhaps I will be back to a type 2 or 3 conversion. Thanks again.
Glad you liked the videos and thanks for the great input to the topic and support
Hi have you done a video on timing the metering unit as I'm going to send the unit and injectors for refurbishment please. Regards Kevin
Have a look at the 4th 125-150 conversion video where the engine gets rebuilt. in summary you time the metering unit buy checking the MU hole on injector 6 output when the engine is at TDC. you can find this online aswell if you look hard enough as its in the workshop manual. its a must read before as you refit it an get ready to start up for the first time. good luck
High I've just purchased a tr6 very interesting video we're is the best place to purchase the kit you have on your car please?
Hi it came from rimmer bros or moss. cant remember which
I know this is completely going to drive every enthusiast crazy and I apologize in advance haha I got my dads 69 tr6 now and it’s been sitting in the garage for 30 years super clean car all original zero rust. But I’m wanting to put my own taste into the car make it a fun cruising show car and mow when I want it to be and not so low when cursing the interstate. So I’m thinking about going with air bag suspension. In theory can I run air bags in the rear with out the spring? Since air bags have everything integrated?
That would be an interesting upgrade. would love to see a video on that if you choose to go ahead
@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349 I will for sure video it, I’ve seen the Toyota ae86 is the same suspension set up in the rear as the tr after the strut conversion so I’m up in the air on bags or maybe one piece coils may Frankenstein a set of something together!
Great video! I am in the process of fitting type 3 to my TR6. I can't find what torque to tighten the 9/16 nuts at the top and bottom of the shock. Can you help? thanks
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful. There is no defined torque here as you are tightening against the rubber bump stops. Poly bushes would probably take more torque than std rubber ones. I tighten enough to lightly squash the rubber bushes leaving no movement so there is no play in the shock. You can double nut or use a nyloc nut or loctite to be sure won’t come loose . Good luck with the upgrade 👍
@@mgmidget-thebirthofaraceca4349 thanks for the prompt reply. Your videos have been really helpful since I got my TR6. Your well prepared and presented format is a really good way to convey information.
Thanks Ted, appreciate the feedback and kind words