The RUclips gods delivered this video to me today, and I am super glad for it! I’ve been wanting to do exactly what you’ve done on your ceiling - a layer in between and a layer on top to stop thermal bridging - but I haven’t seen anyone else do it like that. You’re the first person! So I super appreciated this video. Thanks for sharing 🙏 PS I’m so glad you mentioned the white styrofoam making a mess! That’s the kind of thing that would ABSOLUTELY DRIVE ME NUTS, and so I appreciate the head’s up. I’ll pass that option on by!
Thank you so much. So many videos recommend the cheap stuff and say it works fine, but I live where the summers and winters are both extreme. Spend the extra money and have no regrets! I need to find a Box Truck to convert half into a living space and the other half a work space.
Very Interesting how you used Both insulation on the ceiling And the difference Between the foam & the Higher Density Pink Stuff. I Cross Reference about a half dozen videos at this time, so my 'Game Plans' will be the BEST upon the Arrival of my New Cargo T. Thank You, Very Clever Work. Or Love of the Build.👍
Great video. Thanks for the info. Looks like I'm going with the pink stuff. It's available here at my local HD for $19.95 1" 4x8 sheet. On a side note. You posted this video on my birthday last year.
Thanks so much for giving those detailed explanations about the different types of insulation. I was about to make a mistake! I was so looking forward to more videos about the trailer build! Thank you for that bit of info though. Especially where you give exact details about screws and washers. Not enough detailed instruction is included in these videos people post on RUclips.
Thanks! I posted this video last minute on a whim. I've been super busy. I know a few would like a video on the power center.. im considering it if I get the time! Thanks for your kind words!
@@danlzlz8405 thanks! Yea I didnt do much tape, I cut the pieces so close they held themselves in. I'm cool with there being a tiny bit of movement available too. Cheers!
The Biz is open, not sure when I can turn a profit, but as for filming, I am planning to do more, one on the the power center I built, which has been working great every day! Thanks for the support!
Pipe insulation works nice on rounded corners with wires becuse its easy to cut channels for snug fit. The black pipe insulation is R6 when squished together, at least it was eight years ago
A big problem with the wall insulation setup you have is the heat transfer through the metal beams directly into the interior. If you did the walls like you did the roof, the comfort level will be dramatically improved. Also, if using it in winter, don't forget to insulate the floors.
Absolutely! It crossed my mind, but for the money, and what I plan to use it for the extra layer didn't make sense on the walls, but the ceiling will get more sun than the sides! I bet if someone did the double layer all the way around it would be really well insulated. Approx R-10. I can tell you the ceiling on a hot day is very tolerable.
Any ideas how to insulate the floor without building a second floor on top of the original and being able to pull the trailer in winter conditions that will get the bottom of the trailer wet?
@@josephdowney4919 I've seen people use foam sprayed from the underside. I don't personally know of a good way other than an insulated floor on top of the floor. Would be helpful to find a trailer with extra height unless you happen to be pretty short. I seem to be right at the level where if I want to properly insulate, I need a trailer with more height than the standard/common.
@@josephdowney4919 I've been considering insulating my floor, what my plan is that I would use 2" pink xps board between the steel supports. You just need to find a way to secure it. Creativity at it best. I will say we have dipped into the mid teens at night and liquid bottles inside are not freezing. So this further proves my ceiling/walls are well insulated
@@MTsubfly take a look at T&G Homosote. Its a fiber board like card board much better water resistance and a vapor barrier. Its used in the home building industry for sub flooring. Also we used to use 1/2 and cover it with material or padded material for wall treatments in model rooms for advertising You can use it instead of the ply on the walls over the foam insulation. Light weight and easy to work with. Glue it screw it what ever you want
I agree with a lot of the points in this video, and I did a CT conversion too (18x8) for half time living and working, and made a series of 3 videos on how to save money in the process, if anyone is interested: ruclips.net/video/iqOQ7KpL-mQ/видео.html And there is a cost estimator spreadsheet there too in the description.
That bubble wrap stuff is way better than you think. I have my camper wrapped in it for winter in Montana. It keeps the trailer super warm compared to not using it. Lightweight, easy to use, and works very well. I've also got it skirted in foam board.
Look at aerogel insulation specifically space Loft it is 10.3 R-value per inch. It is expensive, but when I to get around to insulating my enclosed trailer that's what I'm going to use. If your patient you can pick some up cheaper off of eBay, scraps and surplus from industrial jobs.
Thank you for sharing I’m leaning in the direction to convert a cargo trailer to travel in and live I don’t think the rv travel trailer that you but are worth the money I want something that will be more secure also I’m sold on the pink panther brand thank you for sharing
I just went with the white foam because it claims r4 and costs around half the price of the pink board. Aside from the cost and minimal r value difference, there is an advantage to the pink foam board and that is the fact that it can't form mold and is rated for underground applications, so you are also getting a little better insurance when your trailer starts leaking... because it is not, it is when. I wasn't too concerned about. What is a little concerning is how the metal studs are still nothing, and it seemed like once the wall had insulation added it made a huge difference blocking the solar heat for the most part, but seemed to also increase the heat soak at the metal studs. I could tell this because it was all happening same day and sun as the insulating and re sheeting was being done. It is a black trailer so that amplifies the heat issues from the sun. The next time I insulate a trailer, I'll either add 1/4 inch pink foam over everything before the wall sheeting, or figure out how much thicker the wood wall sheeting needs to be to gain that amount of r value. No one seems to talk about the floor.
Good information. What about a vapor barrier or moisture barrier? Should we be placing anything between the exterior wall of the trailer and the insulation, such as plastic sheeting and also should it be placed between the insulation and the interior wall?
I've opted to used duct board. .the insulation board used for air ducts. Foil backed and fiberglass it won't create toxic fumes if - God forbid , a fire occurs. 1in. Provdes about 4.5 r- value. If you can make the room 1.5 in. Is about a 7.5 r value.
So if you completely damaged your trailer to no repair would you consider another new trailer the same configuration? Good information on this one you explained it well
What did you do with the wires for the trailer tail lights? Did you tape them to the trailer, leave a gap in the insulation or account for rubbing/wear when trailer is moving? I am in the process of insulating and uncertain about what to do with the wires. Thank you for this video and your response to my questions.
Tail light wiring was run underneath outside in a sheath & and through steel tubing. All other interior wiring was run around the top corners inside, and if needed- down the wall with a groove cut out of insulation. Don't worry much about rubbing & wear, but don't route wires over sharp objects, or near moisture. Hope this help
That silver acts as a vapor blocker. You block the cold creating moisture and it will build up on the wood. I think you should use both even with loss from r3 to r1.5... and r5 with the foam & R1from the wood panel . R7.5 is better then R5 with black mold.
Great looking trailer! Can you tell me more about your power setup? I purchased a 7x14 trailer that has Solar but want to upgrade to 400w solar pannels, adding another 12v battery so i will have 2 and I have a 1500 w inverter.
Yea! Thanks for watching. Its been almost two months now since the electrical is in, and I have no regrets. First off, the only thing my power center cannot do is convert 12VDC to 110VAC. This is just like a standard RV installation. BUT! That can be fixed with a inverter. If I get time I will try to do a video on it. The heart of the power center is the Progressive Dynamics 4135 Unit. This allowed me to hook up 110V 30A shore power, install needed 110V outlets, smart charge the two deep cycle 12V batteries, and supply 12V Power when there is no shore power. Other items I installed were a radio, a voltmeter for the batteries, and a main power switch, 4 GFCI 110v Plug ins, 12v recessed lights, and an awning. Hope this helps!
Great video. Your ceiling idea was a perfect solution for heat and lighting depths. Did you pre-wired the lighting wire before you set the second layer of foam? Also if you cut multiple slices in the pink foam bent it and taped it into shape (foil tape) you might be able to use it on the ceiling radius. If you bonded the foam to the skin would it show outside when temperature changes. It would make it more quite though.
I put the ceiling up first, with minimal screws, then went to town placing & drilling holes for the lights, ran the wires on top of the vinyl ceiling boards (cant tell though)
Very helpful, thanks! So for this trailer, how did you secure the insulation and boards onto the sides of the trailer? Are there holes that puncture to the outside?
if you cut expanded polystyrene with a razor sharp filet knife always pulling on the cut, it will cut as smooth as the stock edge with no fluffy beads flying all over.
What did you use for the ceiling material, the white paneling? I'm insulating my trailer similar to yours and my enclosed 7x16 trailer currently has nothing on the ceiling. My sides have plywood which I'm thinking of replacing. What type of paneling would you suggest for the sides as well? Thanks for this video, it has helped me a lot!
Ceiling is a vinyl coated 1/8" plywood. Walls have thin plywood, covered with slatwall. You should put on what you like for your particular use. Or just sand and paint plywood. Lots of options.
In my 7x14 after taking down each sheet of 3/8 plywood individually I insulated with the 1 inch pink board,installed cross studs of 5/4 board where I knew I would install my pass thru electrical plugs,water fill hatches,cable tv,plate etc. Then I put the plywood back with the same screws in the exact holes then for the finish i glued and air stapler 4x8 sheets of the Home Depot barn wood look panels, 1/2 inch 16 guage staples.
@@MTsubfly Just a suggestion but doing the floor makes a BIIIIIG difference, sane thing with me came back year later did it also installed a diesel heater best move ever thanks for vid
an explanation how it will keep heat out but not in would be nice, not sure thermodynamics agrees, never really heard of one way heat transfer w wall insulation
I have an 8.5 x 24 v-nose with extra height (8 foot inside clearance) It's used for hauling my classic Mach One and Can Am side by sides. I will occasionally sleep in it. I have a toilet, 12 volt fridge, and extra lights. I don't know how to insulate the floor yet. You got any ideas about that? I'm also adding a couple small windows so it's not so claustrophobic.
Hey Terry, I believe the difference is the density/compressive strength. 150 is 15 PSI and 250 is 25 PSI compressive strength. For a trailer I would lean to the 250. Definitely compare R-values though if they are the same thickness. The higher the R-Value, the better insulating ability of the product. Cheers
TYSM! Just what i was looking for! Bought yesterday my first little 6X10 cargo trailer (Haulin, Ramp door, not a V-shape though). Planning to start an insulation work tomorrow and your video made a lot of sense to me. only one question: you said that it all goof to keep a heat out but not the cold. i want mine fully winterized. which technique is the best for it? (I definitely going to insulate the floor as well). hope to hear from you soon so i know what to use. Thanks a lot (i subscribed ;-))
I think you are referring to my comment on using the reflective bubble wrap insulation on its own. It will not help keep heat in side during the winter. In that instance it is considered a R1 rating. The only thing its good for it reflecting radian heat from the sun, which as described in the video requires a gap. If it was me, and I had to do it again, I would use the pink stuff all the way. I have already been through a winter running our business out of it with a propane heater inside, while it's 15 degrees outside. Also I just dealt with 111 degree heat a few days ago. I installed a small 10k BTU window AC unit. It keeps it nice and cool. Also since this video I painted the roof white with Henry Tropicool. Well worth the money...seriously. I also double insulated the ceiling 2" thick, and walls are 1" thick, all pink. couldnt be much happier.
Great video. Can you re explain how do you create the 1 inch air gap on the walls. Ypu installed the pink board against the outer skin so would like some clarity on that
I’m 1/2 way done insulting my trailer with white foam. I tried the pink stuff and took it back because the pink stuff isn’t as flexible. The white foam is much easier to get into tight spots
Lizard Skin Thermal Ceramic insulation sprays in for automotive and I've heard it reduces temps severely and does not let no vapor at all through it. No sure why this is not widely known. You can throw rigid foam over it.
Yep like to know about electrical and batteries..just bought a trailer and I want to figure out how to install solar panel to keep power tools batteries warm as we get down to -30°
Looks great! Maybe I missed it, but what type of lights did you use in the ceiling? Did you leave clearance to the insulation? Any issues with heat from the lights? Thanks!
@@MTsubfly Thanks for reply. Those do look great--there's lots of terrible LED options out there, nice to find a good one. Any chance if you remember if you got the 3, 6, or 9W version? Video looks like you have plenty of light in there.
@@andrewlaird8638 I think 9 watt, pretty sure they were 720 lumens each, installed on a dimmer, I alway have at max brightness, but I would have liked maybe 2 more installed, but for camping it would be plenty bright.
It's Fiberglass reinforced vinyl sheet from Lowes. Made by Mohawk, Model: Providence. Glue it down to good plywood. I was too concerned about click type flooring popping apart and getting gaps to to natural flexing of a trailer. I hope this lasts a while! Maybe I should do a quick video on flooring...
How did you attach the foam board to the ceiling? So much vibration going down the road. I’m am trying to do the tack room in a horse trailer. FYI trailer is steel. Normally pretty cool in summer. Just really cold in the winter. Thanks in advance.
I cut them accurately enough that they just squeeze right in and stay there, if its a bit small you can cut a sliver of insulation and pack it in there to hold it. I used very little tape, tape was mostly for wiring. Then the panels went back up, which holds them of course. I don't recommend glue because a trailer flexes a lot, not just from moving and weight, but heating and cooling too, its good for it to have a little room to move, but cut accurately. If you don't have paneling, you can get it at home depot, I bought some about 1/8" thick 4x8 sheet for like $16, use self tapping screws to put it up, mark where your studs are first.
I know you said that you were planning to use the trailer for operating a business out of and I assume that was the purpose of using the Slotwall panels which are actually quite strong and heavy. Did you use anything special for mounting to the ribs in the trailer walls?
Now if you have bucoo bucks, look at aviation foil foam for exterior skin adhesion (obviously inside) 1/4 to 3/8 self sticking to underside of roof skin, then use the pink.....sound proof it and with the pink foam added really works wonders
Thx for the great info! Have you taken the temperature inside during your 90+ degree days since your insulation install? I'm thinking of buying this XPS foam for my FedEx truck project; I live in Puerto Rico where it is hot and humid for half the year... 🤷🏻♂️
Yes! Our Climate is hot for 3 months, and cold the rest of the year, but lots of sun. I can say before putting in the insulation, I measured the inside skin surface at 154F in the sun, it got hot in there fast, and radiated heat off the walls, you could feel it on your skin. Now that everything is in, wall panels too, I am pretty happy. We had a few weeks in the upper 90's, and when I first opened it up after sitting a few hours in the sun in the morning it was still cool inside (about 65-70), but if I keep it closed all day then the heat makes its way inside, and it can get uncomfortable in the afternoon, but thats closed up. Since I am using it for a store, I plan to have the doors open, and when it is open, it remains comfortable. Hope this helps, but I am pretty happy with it, I'm especially glad I did the second layer on the ceiling.
Double R Trailers in Nampa ID. They can build you anything you want, check out their facebook page. I think the quality is pretty high, definitely better than a "run of the mill" trailer like cargo mate. My trailer was built fast, they were kind enough to squeeze it in, but I have a few "fit & finish" things I wish they would have done better. Overall though you get a nicer trailer than a assembly line fast factory built.
Not at all. I didn't make the insulation perfectly airtight, it's good to have a bit to breath, but I also I've in a mild desert. Dry air.. no worries.
Ok i have a question - has anyone tried, or would it even work - tried spraying the pink stuff with some glue then use that extra thick home food foil on it, both sides?, it appears to come wide enough for the wall sheets and now you would have 2 sided foil sheets before putting the wood walls back up? Of course shiny side out… or is this just not going to work at all?
That's up to opinion and money. I would do the pink xps again, and I've been operating in the trailer 5 days a week for a year in 5°f - 110°f exterior Temps. Just my opinion.
Newly Uploaded Video On the Power Center here: ruclips.net/video/3ROaM2do-OM/видео.html
The RUclips gods delivered this video to me today, and I am super glad for it! I’ve been wanting to do exactly what you’ve done on your ceiling - a layer in between and a layer on top to stop thermal bridging - but I haven’t seen anyone else do it like that. You’re the first person! So I super appreciated this video. Thanks for sharing 🙏
PS I’m so glad you mentioned the white styrofoam making a mess! That’s the kind of thing that would ABSOLUTELY DRIVE ME NUTS, and so I appreciate the head’s up. I’ll pass that option on by!
Thank you for making the video relatable I can't believe how many videos I've watched that don't describe it the way you did a good job 😀👍
Thank you so much. So many videos recommend the cheap stuff and say it works fine, but I live where the summers and winters are both extreme. Spend the extra money and have no regrets! I need to find a Box Truck to convert half into a living space and the other half a work space.
the jets were awesome, one really doesn't know the feeling one gets when one SEES AN FEELS THAT POWER
You betcha! I get my vids are boring, I try to add in something interesting...LOVE the jets!
Very Interesting how you used Both insulation on the ceiling And the difference Between the foam & the Higher Density Pink Stuff. I Cross Reference about a half dozen videos at this time, so my 'Game Plans' will be the BEST upon the Arrival of my New Cargo T. Thank You, Very Clever Work. Or Love of the Build.👍
Thank you for that great explanation about insulation! I'm new to all this but want to create a home on wheels.
Great video. Thanks for the info. Looks like I'm going with the pink stuff. It's available here at my local HD for $19.95 1" 4x8 sheet. On a side note. You posted this video on my birthday last year.
Thanks for the video. Looking at converting a 7x18 soon. No electrical experience, but luckily I have family willing to help.
Thanks so much for giving those detailed explanations about the different types of insulation. I was about to make a mistake! I was so looking forward to more videos about the trailer build! Thank you for that bit of info though. Especially where you give exact details about screws and washers. Not enough detailed instruction is included in these videos people post on RUclips.
Thanks! I posted this video last minute on a whim. I've been super busy. I know a few would like a video on the power center.. im considering it if I get the time! Thanks for your kind words!
@@MTsubfly Yah. Rreally good tips and great ceiling work, LED lights and all! Why no tape at seams?
@@danlzlz8405 thanks! Yea I didnt do much tape, I cut the pieces so close they held themselves in. I'm cool with there being a tiny bit of movement available too. Cheers!
The jets at the end are awesome! Go Navy!
Thanks. Will watch your other trailer building videos
Good info! Looking forward to the power center vid. Happy trails!
Thanks! Here the link on the power center: ruclips.net/video/3ROaM2do-OM/видео.html
Good luck!
Wow bro, nice. Love the ceiling.
Thank you for the info. Great job on the trailer. 👍👍
Thank you!
Great vid! Hope you keep filming your progress.
The Biz is open, not sure when I can turn a profit, but as for filming, I am planning to do more, one on the the power center I built, which has been working great every day! Thanks for the support!
Pipe insulation works nice on rounded corners with wires becuse its easy to cut channels for snug fit. The black pipe insulation is R6 when squished together, at least it was eight years ago
A big problem with the wall insulation setup you have is the heat transfer through the metal beams directly into the interior. If you did the walls like you did the roof, the comfort level will be dramatically improved. Also, if using it in winter, don't forget to insulate the floors.
Absolutely! It crossed my mind, but for the money, and what I plan to use it for the extra layer didn't make sense on the walls, but the ceiling will get more sun than the sides! I bet if someone did the double layer all the way around it would be really well insulated. Approx R-10. I can tell you the ceiling on a hot day is very tolerable.
Any ideas how to insulate the floor without building a second floor on top of the original and being able to pull the trailer in winter conditions that will get the bottom of the trailer wet?
@@josephdowney4919 I've seen people use foam sprayed from the underside. I don't personally know of a good way other than an insulated floor on top of the floor. Would be helpful to find a trailer with extra height unless you happen to be pretty short. I seem to be right at the level where if I want to properly insulate, I need a trailer with more height than the standard/common.
@@josephdowney4919 I've been considering insulating my floor, what my plan is that I would use 2" pink xps board between the steel supports. You just need to find a way to secure it. Creativity at it best. I will say we have dipped into the mid teens at night and liquid bottles inside are not freezing. So this further proves my ceiling/walls are well insulated
@@MTsubfly take a look at T&G Homosote. Its a fiber board like card board much better water resistance and a vapor barrier. Its used in the home building industry for sub flooring. Also we used to use 1/2 and cover it with material or padded material for wall treatments in model rooms for advertising
You can use it instead of the ply on the walls over the foam insulation. Light weight and easy to work with. Glue it screw it what ever you want
Thanks brother. Wife and I are planning on doing a conversion and the insulation is one thing we we're kinda trying to figure out.
I agree with a lot of the points in this video, and I did a CT conversion too (18x8) for half time living and working, and made a series of 3 videos on how to save money in the process, if anyone is interested: ruclips.net/video/iqOQ7KpL-mQ/видео.html And there is a cost estimator spreadsheet there too in the description.
Excellent explanation of the choices available, thank you. I learned a lot and will use this on my 7 x 14 I just bought.
I want to know more about your trailer! The flooring and the electrical specifically.
Me too, since I'm converting my 6x12 utility trailer into my mini home..
Electrical vid just uploaded! Thx & Hope it helps!
Great vid... cool looking trailer.
Very good tutorial. Thank you and Best Wishes.E.
Wow. Outstanding job
Excellent video! Thank you. I was gonna use the white sheets. They are a pain. I will try the pink stuff this time around.
Tropi cool roof coating is supposed to make a big difference on the metal roof too. I'm going to put some on my cargo conversion trailer this summer
That bubble wrap stuff is way better than you think. I have my camper wrapped in it for winter in Montana. It keeps the trailer super warm compared to not using it. Lightweight, easy to use, and works very well. I've also got it skirted in foam board.
Look at aerogel insulation specifically space Loft it is 10.3 R-value per inch. It is expensive, but when I to get around to insulating my enclosed trailer that's what I'm going to use. If your patient you can pick some up cheaper off of eBay, scraps and surplus from industrial jobs.
Thank you for sharing I’m leaning in the direction to convert a cargo trailer to travel in and live I don’t think the rv travel trailer that you but are worth the money I want something that will be more secure also I’m sold on the pink panther brand thank you for sharing
Very smart approach to getting the correct insulation solution !
Thanks!
I just went with the white foam because it claims r4 and costs around half the price of the pink board. Aside from the cost and minimal r value difference, there is an advantage to the pink foam board and that is the fact that it can't form mold and is rated for underground applications, so you are also getting a little better insurance when your trailer starts leaking... because it is not, it is when. I wasn't too concerned about. What is a little concerning is how the metal studs are still nothing, and it seemed like once the wall had insulation added it made a huge difference blocking the solar heat for the most part, but seemed to also increase the heat soak at the metal studs. I could tell this because it was all happening same day and sun as the insulating and re sheeting was being done. It is a black trailer so that amplifies the heat issues from the sun. The next time I insulate a trailer, I'll either add 1/4 inch pink foam over everything before the wall sheeting, or figure out how much thicker the wood wall sheeting needs to be to gain that amount of r value. No one seems to talk about the floor.
Good information. What about a vapor barrier or moisture barrier? Should we be placing anything between the exterior wall of the trailer and the insulation, such as plastic sheeting and also should it be placed between the insulation and the interior wall?
Good Job.....I will try to do one of these also but not as large.
Do you think this application will work overhead in alum. Horse trailer
Great video by the way. Fl. Is hot.
Smart man❤🥰❤❤great work
Great info
Looks great! Thanks for sharing.
Nice Video.. I would love to hear about the electrical setup!
Electrical is right here dude: ruclips.net/video/3ROaM2do-OM/видео.html
I would love to NOT hear that annoying background music.
Useful info . 👍
Thanks! Very informative!
I've opted to used duct board. .the insulation board used for air ducts.
Foil backed and fiberglass it won't create toxic fumes if - God forbid , a fire occurs. 1in. Provdes about 4.5 r- value. If you can make the room 1.5 in. Is about a 7.5 r value.
keep moving forward...
So if you completely damaged your trailer to no repair would you consider another new trailer the same configuration? Good information on this one you explained it well
Yea, I like it. Double R trailers can build you anything you want, no matter how complex or basic.
Thanks for the information 👍
What did you do with the wires for the trailer tail lights? Did you tape them to the trailer, leave a gap in the insulation or account for rubbing/wear when trailer is moving? I am in the process of insulating and uncertain about what to do with the wires. Thank you for this video and your response to my questions.
Tail light wiring was run underneath outside in a sheath & and through steel tubing. All other interior wiring was run around the top corners inside, and if needed- down the wall with a groove cut out of insulation. Don't worry much about rubbing & wear, but don't route wires over sharp objects, or near moisture. Hope this help
great video
That silver acts as a vapor blocker. You block the cold creating moisture and it will build up on the wood. I think you should use both even with loss from r3 to r1.5... and r5 with the foam & R1from the wood panel . R7.5 is better then R5 with black mold.
Let's see a video on your power station set up.
I need to do this! Time! Time! Time!
Just uploaded buddy!
Can you please link what wood slat panels you used? Thanks!
How did you isolate your screws from ceiling runners with that much foam. Or did you screw direct
Great looking trailer! Can you tell me more about your power setup? I purchased a 7x14 trailer that has Solar but want to upgrade to 400w solar pannels, adding another 12v battery so i will have 2 and I have a 1500 w inverter.
Yea! Thanks for watching. Its been almost two months now since the electrical is in, and I have no regrets. First off, the only thing my power center cannot do is convert 12VDC to 110VAC. This is just like a standard RV installation. BUT! That can be fixed with a inverter. If I get time I will try to do a video on it. The heart of the power center is the Progressive Dynamics 4135 Unit. This allowed me to hook up 110V 30A shore power, install needed 110V outlets, smart charge the two deep cycle 12V batteries, and supply 12V Power when there is no shore power. Other items I installed were a radio, a voltmeter for the batteries, and a main power switch, 4 GFCI 110v Plug ins, 12v recessed lights, and an awning. Hope this helps!
Thanks Well explained👍👍👍
Great video. Your ceiling idea was a perfect solution for heat and lighting depths. Did you pre-wired the lighting wire before you set the second layer of foam? Also if you cut multiple slices in the pink foam bent it and taped it into shape (foil tape) you might be able to use it on the ceiling radius. If you bonded the foam to the skin would it show outside when temperature changes. It would make it more quite though.
I put the ceiling up first, with minimal screws, then went to town placing & drilling holes for the lights, ran the wires on top of the vinyl ceiling boards (cant tell though)
Very helpful, thanks! So for this trailer, how did you secure the insulation and boards onto the sides of the trailer? Are there holes that puncture to the outside?
if you cut expanded polystyrene with a razor sharp filet knife always pulling on the cut, it will cut as smooth as the stock edge with no fluffy beads flying all over.
What did you use for the ceiling material, the white paneling? I'm insulating my trailer similar to yours and my enclosed 7x16 trailer currently has nothing on the ceiling. My sides have plywood which I'm thinking of replacing. What type of paneling would you suggest for the sides as well? Thanks for this video, it has helped me a lot!
Ceiling is a vinyl coated 1/8" plywood. Walls have thin plywood, covered with slatwall. You should put on what you like for your particular use. Or just sand and paint plywood. Lots of options.
In my 7x14 after taking down each sheet of 3/8 plywood individually I insulated with the 1 inch pink board,installed cross studs of 5/4 board where I knew I would install my pass thru electrical plugs,water fill hatches,cable tv,plate etc. Then I put the plywood back with the same screws in the exact holes then for the finish i glued and air stapler 4x8 sheets of the Home Depot barn wood look panels, 1/2 inch 16 guage staples.
@@MrJoey1570 how long did it take you to do that
Looks good man! Curious: did you double up the insulation on the floor like you did for the ceiling? ✌
Thanks dude! I actually didn't do the floor. But I was considering doing 2 inch on the floor!
@@MTsubfly Just a suggestion but doing the floor makes a BIIIIIG difference, sane thing with me came back year later did it also installed a diesel heater best move ever thanks for vid
an explanation how it will keep heat out but not in would be nice, not sure thermodynamics agrees, never really heard of one way heat transfer w wall insulation
Beneficial to use the first bubble wrap with the purple one you use? Or is it better to just go with the more expensive stuff
I have an 8.5 x 24 v-nose with extra height (8 foot inside clearance)
It's used for hauling my classic Mach One and Can Am side by sides. I will occasionally sleep in it. I have a toilet, 12 volt fridge, and extra lights. I don't know how to insulate the floor yet. You got any ideas about that? I'm also adding a couple small windows so it's not so claustrophobic.
I was at Home Depot and was 150 and 250 in Pink foam
Do you know what the Difference is
Hey Terry, I believe the difference is the density/compressive strength. 150 is 15 PSI and 250 is 25 PSI compressive strength. For a trailer I would lean to the 250. Definitely compare R-values though if they are the same thickness. The higher the R-Value, the better insulating ability of the product. Cheers
Really nice floor. Is there a video on that?
You come to my town I got you on your coffee bro
Thx Bro!
TYSM! Just what i was looking for! Bought yesterday my first little 6X10 cargo trailer (Haulin, Ramp door, not a V-shape though). Planning to start an insulation work tomorrow and your video made a lot of sense to me. only one question: you said that it all goof to keep a heat out but not the cold. i want mine fully winterized. which technique is the best for it? (I definitely going to insulate the floor as well). hope to hear from you soon so i know what to use. Thanks a lot (i subscribed ;-))
I think you are referring to my comment on using the reflective bubble wrap insulation on its own. It will not help keep heat in side during the winter. In that instance it is considered a R1 rating. The only thing its good for it reflecting radian heat from the sun, which as described in the video requires a gap.
If it was me, and I had to do it again, I would use the pink stuff all the way. I have already been through a winter running our business out of it with a propane heater inside, while it's 15 degrees outside. Also I just dealt with 111 degree heat a few days ago. I installed a small 10k BTU window AC unit. It keeps it nice and cool. Also since this video I painted the roof white with Henry Tropicool. Well worth the money...seriously. I also double insulated the ceiling 2" thick, and walls are 1" thick, all pink. couldnt be much happier.
Nice Video!! what did you spend on material to insulate the trailer?
I'm not actually sure, buuuuut I would guess since one sheet is $20... $400 sound right? I gotta dig up receipts
Great video. Can you re explain how do you create the 1 inch air gap on the walls. Ypu installed the pink board against the outer skin so would like some clarity on that
I didn't have an air gap. Only need an air gap if you want the foil to be most effective at blocking radiant heat. Pink stuff, no gap
I’m 1/2 way done insulting my trailer with white foam. I tried the pink stuff and took it back because the pink stuff isn’t as flexible. The white foam is much easier to get into tight spots
I am doing the same on my trailer build, 2”.
Lizard Skin Thermal Ceramic insulation sprays in for automotive and I've heard it reduces temps severely and does not let no vapor at all through it. No sure why this is not widely known. You can throw rigid foam over it.
I thought that was more for sound deadening or sound proofing?
Yep like to know about electrical and batteries..just bought a trailer and I want to figure out how to install solar panel to keep power tools batteries warm as we get down to -30°
Just uploaded the power center vid, hope it helps!
Looks great! Maybe I missed it, but what type of lights did you use in the ceiling? Did you leave clearance to the insulation? Any issues with heat from the lights? Thanks!
No heat issues, recessed 12vdc leisure rv puck lights. They are awesome!
@@MTsubfly Thanks for reply. Those do look great--there's lots of terrible LED options out there, nice to find a good one. Any chance if you remember if you got the 3, 6, or 9W version? Video looks like you have plenty of light in there.
@@andrewlaird8638 I think 9 watt, pretty sure they were 720 lumens each, installed on a dimmer, I alway have at max brightness, but I would have liked maybe 2 more installed, but for camping it would be plenty bright.
I like the flooring, is that vinyl plank click? If you don't mind would you share manf and model#? Thanks for sharing
It's Fiberglass reinforced vinyl sheet from Lowes. Made by Mohawk, Model: Providence. Glue it down to good plywood. I was too concerned about click type flooring popping apart and getting gaps to to natural flexing of a trailer. I hope this lasts a while! Maybe I should do a quick video on flooring...
How did you attach the foam board to the ceiling? So much vibration going down the road. I’m am trying to do the tack room in a horse trailer. FYI trailer is steel. Normally pretty cool in summer. Just really cold in the winter. Thanks in advance.
I cut them accurately enough that they just squeeze right in and stay there, if its a bit small you can cut a sliver of insulation and pack it in there to hold it. I used very little tape, tape was mostly for wiring. Then the panels went back up, which holds them of course. I don't recommend glue because a trailer flexes a lot, not just from moving and weight, but heating and cooling too, its good for it to have a little room to move, but cut accurately. If you don't have paneling, you can get it at home depot, I bought some about 1/8" thick 4x8 sheet for like $16, use self tapping screws to put it up, mark where your studs are first.
I talk a little about it at 9:10
I know you said that you were planning to use the trailer for operating a business out of and I assume that was the purpose of using the Slotwall panels which are actually quite strong and heavy. Did you use anything special for mounting to the ribs in the trailer walls?
Yes, self tapping screws with large area custom washers. Worked great!
@@MTsubfly thanks
I’m digging that flooring in there! What did you use?
Linoleum from lowes! Pretty tough but had to special order it! It was "provincial"
Brand: Mohawk model: provincial
Can you provide link to Recessed lights. Thnx
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0785N55RP?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Did you caulk any seams before insulating and after with spray foam?
No sir. The skin is held on and sealed with a super strong 3m tape. No leaks.
How did you get the Styrofoam on the top of the roof did you knew it
Ty
Do you have a foil backer on the insulation on the roof ? And is there anything you used on the roof insulation for the heat? Thank you
Used two 1 inch pink xps layers on the ceiling for the heat. Works great!
Now if you have bucoo bucks, look at aviation foil foam for exterior skin adhesion (obviously inside) 1/4 to 3/8 self sticking to underside of roof skin, then use the pink.....sound proof it and with the pink foam added really works wonders
Can blow in insulation be used instead of taking the plywood off?
How you attach the insulation, you use glue??
I'm doing a 20x 8.5 enclosed and am trying minimize weight. How much weight do you think the insulation added?
The insulation weight is negligible. Totally irrelevant. Adds maybe 100 to 200 lbs. Nothing more than the weight of a person.
Did you do the floor? With what and how much?
What did you put over the insulation for a finish ?
Ceiling is a thin vinyl coated plywood, walls have the original thin plywood, then slatwall over that.
Thx for the great info! Have you taken the temperature inside during your 90+ degree days since your insulation install?
I'm thinking of buying this XPS foam for my FedEx truck project; I live in Puerto Rico where it is hot and humid for half the year... 🤷🏻♂️
Yes! Our Climate is hot for 3 months, and cold the rest of the year, but lots of sun.
I can say before putting in the insulation, I measured the inside skin surface at 154F in the sun, it got hot in there fast, and radiated heat off the walls, you could feel it on your skin.
Now that everything is in, wall panels too, I am pretty happy. We had a few weeks in the upper 90's, and when I first opened it up after sitting a few hours in the sun in the morning it was still cool inside (about 65-70), but if I keep it closed all day then the heat makes its way inside, and it can get uncomfortable in the afternoon, but thats closed up.
Since I am using it for a store, I plan to have the doors open, and when it is open, it remains comfortable. Hope this helps, but I am pretty happy with it, I'm especially glad I did the second layer on the ceiling.
What did you insulate the floor with ??
Colder climates will need that !!
What brand of trailer is it? Are you pleased with the quality?
Double R Trailers in Nampa ID. They can build you anything you want, check out their facebook page. I think the quality is pretty high, definitely better than a "run of the mill" trailer like cargo mate. My trailer was built fast, they were kind enough to squeeze it in, but I have a few "fit & finish" things I wish they would have done better. Overall though you get a nicer trailer than a assembly line fast factory built.
i like cutting the styrofoam board with a saw zaw with the fan blowing on me.
Did you insulate the flooring? If so, how did you do it?
I did not. Its plywood & vapor barrier.
The white styrofoam holds moisture between the beads thus transfers heat an cold!
What material did you use on the walls?
Do you have to worry about Condensation?
What brand of trailer and did you do any insulation for the floor?
No insulation in floor, double r trailers out of Nampa
Did you insulate under the floor?
No sir!
What about professional spary foam?
Any problems yet with condensation?
Not at all. I didn't make the insulation perfectly airtight, it's good to have a bit to breath, but I also I've in a mild desert. Dry air.. no worries.
Can you put Insulation under trailer?
Ok i have a question - has anyone tried, or would it even work - tried spraying the pink stuff with some glue then use that extra thick home food foil on it, both sides?, it appears to come wide enough for the wall sheets and now you would have 2 sided foil sheets before putting the wood walls back up? Of course shiny side out… or is this just not going to work at all?
WTF is shore power? Been trying to figure that out. I plan to use my trailer on generator power, but I have zero knowledge on electrical.
Wouldn't the spray foam insulation be the best option here?
That's up to opinion and money. I would do the pink xps again, and I've been operating in the trailer 5 days a week for a year in 5°f - 110°f exterior Temps. Just my opinion.
@@MTsubfly Fair enough. If that works, that's a better choice financially. 👍