Your stand is fine, your tank height is fine as long as the centerline of the tank is in line with the HSN, which it looks to be. If you can establish a sustained idle, at a fixed point .i.e a throttle stop screw, then observe the RPM. If it slowly increases and then dies the low speed is too lean. If it slowly decreases and dies then it is too rich. My apologies as I do not recall the history or ‘newness’ of this engine. If the engine is not NEW and never run and does not have a new piston ring, there is no reason to be running it as if it is a break in run. Bearings do not require breaking in. Lean that engine out and get a better feel for the operation. Never tune the low speed until you have the high speed set. Otherwise you will continue chasing your tail around. Why is there a Perry carb? The stock Super Tigre carb is far superior to any Perry carb any day of the week. If you do not have a tachometer, get one. Engine tuning and troubleshooting is much easier with one. Why did you decide to use a Fox Long plug? I would suggest an OS #8. The plug could be part of the issue as well.
Thanks for the reply/suggestions David and the tips on tuning! As for the engine newness....definitely not new. I don't know much of the history but she definitely has had some runtime. Just new bearings and new carb at this point. As for the Perry carb....part of that decision was convenience....the plane this engine is going in, the engine will be mounted sideways....and with the Perry carb it will put both high and low speed adjustments on the same side (facing upwards when the engine is mounted). With the stock carb my high speed adjustment would be facing upwards and the low speed facing towards the ground....and would make any low speed adjustments kinda tricky if I was at the field. Another thing on the carb....was there appeared to be kind of a history out there regarding Chinese made ST G2300's and folks having issues with their carbs (of course it could be from people who didn't know what they were doing too!). Mine is a China made one as well. When working with Conley/Perry carbs the guy even told me that they have sold more carbs for the 2300 than any other carbs that they have. I thought that was kind of interesting. As for the Fox Long plug....I later found out from the instruction manual on the engine, that they recommend long plugs. One of the first ones that came up (and I had heard other mention too) was the Fox Long plug...so I grabbed one. I have an OS #8 here somewhere that I used in the beginning. Do they make OS #8 long plugs? And I do have a tach....I'll give it a try next time. Thanks again!
Several thoughts I have on this. Fist congratz on a successful post rebuild start and run. Question one: do you have the pressure line from the exhaust to the fuel tank installed? Can not see it from this camera angle. I a thinking you do not since you primed by blocking the carb venturi instead of the exhaust port to push fuel to the carb. Suggestion for the test bench as you make the tank mount. Set up a throttle servo and use the centering tool to work it. that way you can tune under flight ready conditions. If not then do yourself a favor and set a hard idle to make it easier to start up. Also mount the motor to the stand the way it will sit in the plane. Thoughts on the tune right now.. Idle/low speed seems too lean. Every time you lowered the throttle it acted like it wanted to stall. I like to see a lot more smoke at idle. I did not see any hardly at all during low speed in the video.I think if you clean that up the transition from slow to go will be more smooth and clean up that little bit of popping in the mid range. As for the high speed being too rich.. The temps says it all.. its right where it needs to be around 180 to 190 ish If it was too rich you would be down around 150-160. Keep at it sir this should be quite the beastie once hard mounted in an air frame.
Thanks for the reply and suggestions! To answer some questions: Yup I do have the pressure line from the tank to the exhaust. I had heard you can prime it either way...from the carb venturi OR the muffler. I have primed it both ways as well...although I usually go for the carb more often. I had thought about doing the servo option and do have one mounted there but when I did it...I did it very quick and dirty and it didn't go as well. I had thought about redoing it. Right now, just using a standard push rod and doing it by hand. After sitting back and listening to it some, I can hear the "lean" in the low end. Thanks again....I may work with it more this weekend to see if I can get it more dialed in. I will say this is quite the change....the first glow engine I messed with (probably close to 30 years ago) was a 40 size and my dad tried to do the tuning....this thing here is a brute! But I dig it. =)
Your stand is fine, your tank height is fine as long as the centerline of the tank is in line with the HSN, which it looks to be. If you can establish a sustained idle, at a fixed point .i.e a throttle stop screw, then observe the RPM. If it slowly increases and then dies the low speed is too lean. If it slowly decreases and dies then it is too rich.
My apologies as I do not recall the history or ‘newness’ of this engine. If the engine is not NEW and never run and does not have a new piston ring, there is no reason to be running it as if it is a break in run. Bearings do not require breaking in. Lean that engine out and get a better feel for the operation. Never tune the low speed until you have the high speed set. Otherwise you will continue chasing your tail around. Why is there a Perry carb? The stock Super Tigre carb is far superior to any Perry carb any day of the week. If you do not have a tachometer, get one. Engine tuning and troubleshooting is much easier with one.
Why did you decide to use a Fox Long plug? I would suggest an OS #8. The plug could be part of the issue as well.
ruclips.net/video/5pgI4IKZx7s/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/5oiwQ78lB1E/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/e6DzNqdl-JI/видео.html
Thanks for the reply/suggestions David and the tips on tuning!
As for the engine newness....definitely not new. I don't know much of the history but she definitely has had some runtime. Just new bearings and new carb at this point.
As for the Perry carb....part of that decision was convenience....the plane this engine is going in, the engine will be mounted sideways....and with the Perry carb it will put both high and low speed adjustments on the same side (facing upwards when the engine is mounted). With the stock carb my high speed adjustment would be facing upwards and the low speed facing towards the ground....and would make any low speed adjustments kinda tricky if I was at the field. Another thing on the carb....was there appeared to be kind of a history out there regarding Chinese made ST G2300's and folks having issues with their carbs (of course it could be from people who didn't know what they were doing too!). Mine is a China made one as well. When working with Conley/Perry carbs the guy even told me that they have sold more carbs for the 2300 than any other carbs that they have. I thought that was kind of interesting.
As for the Fox Long plug....I later found out from the instruction manual on the engine, that they recommend long plugs. One of the first ones that came up (and I had heard other mention too) was the Fox Long plug...so I grabbed one. I have an OS #8 here somewhere that I used in the beginning. Do they make OS #8 long plugs?
And I do have a tach....I'll give it a try next time.
Thanks again!
Several thoughts I have on this. Fist congratz on a successful post rebuild start and run. Question one: do you have the pressure line from the exhaust to the fuel tank installed? Can not see it from this camera angle. I a thinking you do not since you primed by blocking the carb venturi instead of the exhaust port to push fuel to the carb.
Suggestion for the test bench as you make the tank mount. Set up a throttle servo and use the centering tool to work it. that way you can tune under flight ready conditions. If not then do yourself a favor and set a hard idle to make it easier to start up. Also mount the motor to the stand the way it will sit in the plane.
Thoughts on the tune right now.. Idle/low speed seems too lean. Every time you lowered the throttle it acted like it wanted to stall. I like to see a lot more smoke at idle. I did not see any hardly at all during low speed in the video.I think if you clean that up the transition from slow to go will be more smooth and clean up that little bit of popping in the mid range. As for the high speed being too rich.. The temps says it all.. its right where it needs to be around 180 to 190 ish If it was too rich you would be down around 150-160.
Keep at it sir this should be quite the beastie once hard mounted in an air frame.
Thanks for the reply and suggestions! To answer some questions:
Yup I do have the pressure line from the tank to the exhaust. I had heard you can prime it either way...from the carb venturi OR the muffler. I have primed it both ways as well...although I usually go for the carb more often.
I had thought about doing the servo option and do have one mounted there but when I did it...I did it very quick and dirty and it didn't go as well. I had thought about redoing it. Right now, just using a standard push rod and doing it by hand.
After sitting back and listening to it some, I can hear the "lean" in the low end.
Thanks again....I may work with it more this weekend to see if I can get it more dialed in.
I will say this is quite the change....the first glow engine I messed with (probably close to 30 years ago) was a 40 size and my dad tried to do the tuning....this thing here is a brute! But I dig it. =)