Some might call it obsolete in a time of modern CNC lathes, but I really like how you bring back this old machine with attention to detail, and not just as a museum exhibit but in order to actually use it!
Excellent job, sir! Cannot wait to see part three of this series. I was a little hesitant in comprehending just how beautiful the finished product would be in the beginning, but now I'm a believer.
While It may not scale to the larger parts, I have been using raw molasses in a 5:1 dilution with water for removing rust from old tools. Its not as fast as some of the other chemical means, but it leaves a very clean finish, works especially well on cast iron. Typically 2 weeks in a bath of the mix cleans things up great.
If you are still curious about the origins of the lathe, I'm pretty sure it's a Flesch & Stein from the mid to late 1910's to the early 1920's. I'm not sure of the exact model though. From what I've been able to dig up, Flesch & Stein was established in 1891 and was bought by SEE in 1935. In 1984 SEE merged with Seiger, who continue to make industrial lathes to this day.
The ways aren't that fragile. Especially on a cheap beat old lathe. Don't worry about screwing them up. Light corrosives or abrasives (stones wire brushing, don't sand it.) won't really hurt it.
In the US the part of the tailstock you called a spindle is normally called a quill. Good progress. I will be interested to see the end result and especially the headstock to tailstock alignment.
Personally, I think that a dark grey is entirely appropriate for workshop machinery. So, good choice! Perhaps it results from mental conditioning during my school metalworking/ apprenticeship days... as with music, we tend to think that our first exposure represents 'the right way' to do something.
The tailstock looks great! On my wood lathe, I found the tailstock would slide backwards on the rail too easily while mounting wood to the spur head, regardless of how tightly I tightened the bolt: The clamping plate surface was unevenly worn, and so it was only making contact with the underside of the rail at a few small points. I used a metal file to square it up. I don't think this is as much of an issue for a metal lathe tailstock, as I don't think there's a need to crank it very hard against the work, as is sometimes necessary with wood spindles. I didn't, however, touch the mating surface of the tailstock and rail, as it might put the tailstock off-center with respect to the the headstock. While it's not too big of a deal to be a bit off-center with wood, but I suspect it's a lot more important to have it true for metalwork. I'm not even sure how one would correct centring issues... Shims? Cheers! -nevin
Product recommendation: EvapoRust. I've see this stuff used by another RUclips restorer on rusty metal parts. It works well and you can reuse it. It's available on Amazon. Maybe even Germany. Give it a try and see if it meets your requirements.
I wasn't actually watching the video when I heard you say manual wirewheeling, and I was like "What the hell?" went back to watch the video and I see it's a wire brush, I was picturing you operating a hand drill with a wire wheel bit.
More lathe restoration videos please, I very much enjoy your videos although some are beyond my intellect.. I would like to add that if joy have any extra holes in your castings you can fill them with JB Weld or any other high quality epoxy. This will help in preventing future cracks due to stress raisers caused by unwanted holes. I've even used these products to fill unwanted holes in my drill press and milling machine on the machined surf uses, which is mostly for cosmetic purposes, but dressed flush and oiled the holes just don't show.
hi. für die laufschiene und den darauf existierenden rost empfehle ich dir bremsflüssigkeit. wenn du Tücher auf die schiene legst und diese schön mit der Flüssigkeit trenkst wirst du wieder eine weiche gleit eigenschaft haben. lasse die Tücher ein paar stunden drauf liegen, entferne sie und wische die schiene danach wieder ab. das geht auch für gleitstifte und und und :) meinen messschieber habe ich zum bespiel vom unnutzbaren in den nutzbaren zustand gebracht. lg
I like the paint, I was wondering when we would see your next vid. Looking forward to you're take on electrolysis, most people don't approach it scientifically but I know you will :-D
I would bathe the ways, as you call them, in some sort of oil designed to clean rust/parts, and just use them for a while. Trying to assure they would move freely and without issues while, constantly applying more oil and cleaning the debris/old oil. Eventually by simple use they would get cleaned by their own action.
+mudemmeonick That would be bad as any rust would act as sanding grit and mess up the ways with long scratches. Scratches like that would allow the oil to ooze out from under the carriage and accelerate wear. If he uses a chemical to dissolve and remove rust it will leave behind tiny pockets to trap oil and work much better. He'll just have to wipe the bed down more often to clean out tiny grit and dirt particles.
Perhaps an old tapered drill could be reworked to fit the rather large chuck, better than the nasty hole+pin method :-). Nothing wrong with the paint, its fine for a machine :-D
If I am not wrong ROSTIO contains only citric acid(Zitronensäure) or ascorbic acid (Ascorbinsäure) and some kind of paste (Kleister). Just taste it! I did! Now you know why they are so sure that it has no negative impacts on the Environment and other parts/materials of the part you are cleaning.
+Berthold Braun Sounds reasonable. I didn't really have the time to do a lot of research on that stuff. Where did you get that information? Do they talk about the content on their website, or do you know any other sources?
+The Post Apocalyptic Inventor. I first got suspicious when i recognized the smell of vitamin C pouder and then I tasted a tiny tiny bit and saw/tasted that I was right. Then I looked it up in the internet and found different threads in forums stating the same. Since it is normally either phosphoric acid or citirc acid it was clear to me that they are using citric acid. to be more precise citric acid monohydrate.
so it look like it work the same as lemon juice or acetic acid (aka vinegar ) . and to make a gel if its needed in the aplication we can use just carbomer gel with is basicaly what most contain on some hair gel on the market
is this a metal or wood lathe?don't see an apron and/or cross slide/tool post as on a metal lathe or a tool rest as on a wood lathe...also what you call a spindle in the tailstock we might call a "quill" on a metal lathe...whatever you have,it looks to be a worthwhile project...good luck with it!
Nice! Also like the color, it fits old equipment like that. Do you have a brand name of that paint? Looks like thick heavy paint, the good stuff. Stuff that is hard to get these days..
+huberkarle I bought this from "Heinz Schaber" online and had it shipped here from Austria. It was pretty expensive. The guy has a homepage but it is rather poorly designed and it seems it's only available in German. This is the page where you can find products of this type. I guess here it is sold as "bootslack" ("boat paint") "2k" stands for "two components". www.bootslack-profi.at/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=18&products_id=1
+The Post Apocalyptic Inventor Thanks! Its really expensive, yeah.. But i keep it in mind if i ever need some thick paint. The "only for industrial use" in the datasheet does say enough to be sure its good stuff lol. I have an old east german tractor built in 1960, and it was heavily used to the early 80's, it was also in revision a few times.. And each time they had the tractor in revision they just sprayed another coat of paint on it. Man that stuff is something, i bet it wasn't any good quality back in east german days but it sure is thick and heavy. It orange peels everywhere but it isn't coming off. Apart from a few parts where the paint did wear off there is no severe rust or anything coming through the paint. I guess some day i might repaint the thing to make it look nice and to protect the parts that have worn off, but i probably won't find paint that will hold up as well ever again :D With all the environmental laws (don't take me wrong make sense in places) its really hard to get any paint anymore that isn't basically colored water.. I guess 2k is the way to go nowadays.
I'm enjoying your videos in this series and your overall style of explaining and demonstrating things! Thanks for your efforts. Question - for the metal parts like the hand wheel which are not painted, what are you using long term to protect them from corrosion? Some sort of wax / oil or other clear finish?
it doesn't seem like much that lathe but if it works with acceptable toleration, low vibration than it is a nice adition to the lab, i'm sure you are familiar with abom79 channel and as i've seen so far on his channel the ways are more important than the rest so if needed with some scraping it should be good enough, by the way hard work with the paint removal, been there and thow i'm not a fan of chemichal removing it would have made the job a lot easy, pace
Erstmal großes Kompliment für deine Videos, ich habe bis jetzt alle gesehen :) Machst du auch ein Experiment zu Elektrolyse? Das soll sich ja auch sehr gut dazu eignen, Lack und Rost zu entfernen
+Shaun Tucker Well in my opinion I talked about that in part 2 in sufficient detail. The universal motors uses in washing machines are designed in an open construction style: You can find out which of the wires lead to the commutator brushes and which ones are leading to the tacho generator by a simple visual inspection. The remaining wires belong to the field winding. If there are only two, then there is no problem. If there are three wires left, then you simply have to measure the resistance between the three wires with a multimeter. The resistance between the two ends of the winding will be larger than the resistance between a tap and one of the windings. That's pretty much all there is to it.
+Mark Rowland My viewers didn't seem to be very interested in the project so I stopped making videos about it. The work on the first prototype is completed, the second prototype is still in the making. I haven't had time for it in the last weeks, but I will see that it gets done once the lathe is running.
+The Post Apocalyptic Inventor Well, not everyone has good taste. As for me, seeing you working on stuff and explaining the engineering, it is always good to hear another person descriptions because the embellishments from personal experience usually add flavor. as an EE, I like the edm design challenges and performance of your trials. As an engineer, seeing the limiting precision factors in your old lathe are a statement of the state-of-art way back when. As a bit of "flavor" an element of interest is the equivalent model of the edm supply and load. Here I am appreciating your effort. thanks
+The Post Apocalyptic Inventor That doesn't mean we don't still watch them! That's an area that far surpasses my knowledge. However I still liked watching them. You always learn something. If not the technical bits, some terms, some how-to's. They provide an insight and for the curious type, they might even plant the seed to learn some more!
+The Post Apocalyptic Inventor Shame I was interested in seeing the build process. It's not easy to find information on practical power supply design/build.
You are doing pretty well ! And your rust remover is very effective ^^ Did you put any grease in the tailstock ? If I had to recommend any grease it would be the high velocity/pressure/temperature green one from Falcom. Have a good day and keep up the good work ;)
Wow, I am sure glad Hitler did not inlist you, we all would be speaking German. This is not a negative comment. You work very hard and accomplish a lot. Great job man! If you would like to try some people put plastic auto body filler, Bondo, on the cast iron. Then sand it smooth. It makes the metal body look as if it were a million dollar creation. Very smooth. You can put it over some paints. Test a spot if you wish to try. Like the video!!
Hello Friend. For 1 year you have not updated the progress of the restoration of this metal lathe. Why such a delay? I'm eager to hear the news. Finally tell us, how is the restoration of this lathe metal?
Meinst du den Teil mit dem Mc. Gayver Allzweck Klebeband? Ernsthaft? Bin echt schon gespannt wie er die Bettführungen be- misshandelt oder die Geometrie überprüft (Schlitten steht bekanntlich nicht im rechtencWinkel zur Hauptspindel, Hauptspindel liegt auch mit einem gewissen Maß steigend zumSchlitten in den Lagern , Reitstockpinole sollte auch zur Hauptspindel hin steigen und und und... Möchte nicht nur nörgeln.Ich restauriere selbst so alte Werkzeugmaschinen in meiner Freizeit und möchte auf seine Fragestellung, vom glaube ich ersten Video , eingehen ob er damit präzise Drehteile fertigen kann. Natürlich ist das möglich. Man muss sich aber immer vor Augen halten wie alt diese Maschinen sind und sollte nicht wie heute üblich versuchen mit hohen Drehzahlen zu drehen. Diese Drehmaschinen liefen zumeist über Transnissionswellen und Lederriemen.
Lathe not a sportscar. I plan to buy old sportscar and paint it with the brush, muhahaha. I find that "shiny car" fad not attractive and impractical :)
is this a metal or wood lathe?don't see an apron and/or cross slide/tool post as on a metal lathe or a tool rest as on a wood lathe...also what you call a spindle in the tailstock we might call a "quill" on a metal lathe...whatever you have,it looks to be a worthwhile project...good luck with it!
Some might call it obsolete in a time of modern CNC lathes, but I really like how you bring back this old machine with attention to detail, and not just as a museum exhibit but in order to actually use it!
This is a great series so far, I'm really enjoying it! It's satisfying to watch a crusty, rusty old machine come back to life.
Great to see such a great little lathe being given another lease of life. A very handy addition to your workshop for sure.
It's sad how excited I got at the prospect of seeing a German man restore a vintage lathe
Excellent job, sir! Cannot wait to see part three of this series. I was a little hesitant in comprehending just how beautiful the finished product would be in the beginning, but now I'm a believer.
I love German made lathes and machine tools. They are quality products.
The color is just fine and looks good
While It may not scale to the larger parts, I have been using raw molasses in a 5:1 dilution with water for removing rust from old tools. Its not as fast as some of the other chemical means, but it leaves a very clean finish, works especially well on cast iron. Typically 2 weeks in a bath of the mix cleans things up great.
Looks like it cleaned up nice.
Nice work. I am from Australia and really love your videos especially where you described the parts in German. Love the colour
Wow! You did an amazing job on that tailstock. Good job.
Favourite RUclips channel.
Motivates me to go further and to appreciate my stuff even more!
All the Best From Slovakia
Thanks again for giving the german words for the parts. I really like it.
good job ! just a little tip for the next time, if you are using a air sprayer and you want something NOT painted, just apply some grease to it.
Great job! Cant wait to see how the head stock turns out!
If you are still curious about the origins of the lathe, I'm pretty sure it's a Flesch & Stein from the mid to late 1910's to the early 1920's. I'm not sure of the exact model though. From what I've been able to dig up, Flesch & Stein was established in 1891 and was bought by SEE in 1935. In 1984 SEE merged with Seiger, who continue to make industrial lathes to this day.
The ways aren't that fragile. Especially on a cheap beat old lathe. Don't worry about screwing them up. Light corrosives or abrasives (stones wire brushing, don't sand it.) won't really hurt it.
Great restoration and bitte on the details!
In the US the part of the tailstock you called a spindle is normally called a quill.
Good progress. I will be interested to see the end result and especially the headstock to tailstock alignment.
Personally, I think that a dark grey is entirely appropriate for workshop machinery. So, good choice! Perhaps it results from mental conditioning during my school metalworking/ apprenticeship days... as with music, we tend to think that our first exposure represents 'the right way' to do something.
I like your choice of paint. Industrial grey is perfect for machine tools. W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
The tailstock looks great!
On my wood lathe, I found the tailstock would slide backwards on the rail too easily while mounting wood to the spur head, regardless of how tightly I tightened the bolt: The clamping plate surface was unevenly worn, and so it was only making contact with the underside of the rail at a few small points. I used a metal file to square it up. I don't think this is as much of an issue for a metal lathe tailstock, as I don't think there's a need to crank it very hard against the work, as is sometimes necessary with wood spindles.
I didn't, however, touch the mating surface of the tailstock and rail, as it might put the tailstock off-center with respect to the the headstock. While it's not too big of a deal to be a bit off-center with wood, but I suspect it's a lot more important to have it true for metalwork.
I'm not even sure how one would correct centring issues... Shims?
Cheers!
-nevin
Product recommendation: EvapoRust. I've see this stuff used by another RUclips restorer on rusty metal parts. It works well and you can reuse it. It's available on Amazon. Maybe even Germany. Give it a try and see if it meets your requirements.
I wasn't actually watching the video when I heard you say manual wirewheeling, and I was like "What the hell?" went back to watch the video and I see it's a wire brush, I was picturing you operating a hand drill with a wire wheel bit.
If acetone is available in Germany use it for cleaning and degreasing before painting it works great. Also it isn't so harsh.
White vinegar works wonders for removing rust. Both red and black rust. Old gunsmiths trick, smiles.
looks good. I'm looking forward to your lab video
the taper looks like a mt3 ( morse taper sise 3 ) a drill chuck on a mtl 3 which you should be avalable with that mount
More lathe restoration videos please, I very much enjoy your videos although some are beyond my intellect.. I would like to add that if joy have any extra holes in your castings you can fill them with JB Weld or any other high quality epoxy. This will help in preventing future cracks due to stress raisers caused by unwanted holes. I've even used these products to fill unwanted holes in my drill press and milling machine on the machined surf uses, which is mostly for cosmetic purposes, but dressed flush and oiled the holes just don't show.
nice job herr.
Looks great.
i like the way u presented it 👍
looking good looking good
hi. für die laufschiene und den darauf existierenden rost empfehle ich dir bremsflüssigkeit. wenn du Tücher auf die schiene legst und diese schön mit der Flüssigkeit trenkst wirst du wieder eine weiche gleit eigenschaft haben. lasse die Tücher ein paar stunden drauf liegen, entferne sie und wische die schiene danach wieder ab. das geht auch für gleitstifte und und und :)
meinen messschieber habe ich zum bespiel vom unnutzbaren in den nutzbaren zustand gebracht.
lg
Looking Good!
Good stuff. keep up the great work.
scotch brite pad would work great
I like the paint, I was wondering when we would see your next vid. Looking forward to you're take on electrolysis, most people don't approach it scientifically but I know you will :-D
looking good.
looks great
Love your channel Arnold! Yahhhhh! Just kidding. I think you speak very good English and I really do enjoy your channel and your videos.
I would bathe the ways, as you call them, in some sort of oil designed to clean rust/parts, and just use them for a while. Trying to assure they would move freely and without issues while, constantly applying more oil and cleaning the debris/old oil. Eventually by simple use they would get cleaned by their own action.
+mudemmeonick That would be bad as any rust would act as sanding grit and mess up the ways with long scratches. Scratches like that would allow the oil to ooze out from under the carriage and accelerate wear. If he uses a chemical to dissolve and remove rust it will leave behind tiny pockets to trap oil and work much better. He'll just have to wipe the bed down more often to clean out tiny grit and dirt particles.
I said clean as it gets free. Read before you post for glory.
I kind of like the original finish the machine had. There's just something about institutional green on heavy machinery. Grease it up and go!
Very nice!
Light rust removal: (1) naval jelly, then (2) alcohol
Perhaps an old tapered drill could be reworked to fit the rather large chuck, better than the nasty hole+pin method :-).
Nothing wrong with the paint, its fine for a machine :-D
If I am not wrong ROSTIO contains only citric acid(Zitronensäure) or ascorbic acid (Ascorbinsäure) and some kind of paste (Kleister). Just taste it! I did! Now you know why they are so sure that it has no negative impacts on the Environment and other parts/materials of the part you are cleaning.
+Berthold Braun Sounds reasonable. I didn't really have the time to do a lot of research on that stuff. Where did you get that information? Do they talk about the content on their website, or do you know any other sources?
+The Post Apocalyptic Inventor. I first got suspicious when i recognized the smell of vitamin C pouder and then I tasted a tiny tiny bit and saw/tasted that I was right. Then I looked it up in the internet and found different threads in forums stating the same. Since it is normally either phosphoric acid or citirc acid it was clear to me that they are using citric acid. to be more precise citric acid monohydrate.
so it look like it work the same as lemon juice or acetic acid (aka vinegar ) .
and to make a gel if its needed in the aplication we can use just carbomer gel with is basicaly what most contain on some hair gel on the market
is this a metal or wood lathe?don't see an apron and/or cross slide/tool post as on a metal lathe or a tool rest as on a wood lathe...also what you call a spindle in the tailstock we might call a "quill" on a metal lathe...whatever you have,it looks to be a worthwhile project...good luck with it!
Nice! Also like the color, it fits old equipment like that.
Do you have a brand name of that paint? Looks like thick heavy paint, the good stuff. Stuff that is hard to get these days..
+huberkarle I bought this from "Heinz Schaber" online and had it shipped here from Austria. It was pretty expensive. The guy has a homepage but it is rather poorly designed and it seems it's only available in German.
This is the page where you can find products of this type. I guess here it is sold as "bootslack" ("boat paint") "2k" stands for "two components".
www.bootslack-profi.at/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=18&products_id=1
+The Post Apocalyptic Inventor Thanks! Its really expensive, yeah.. But i keep it in mind if i ever need some thick paint. The "only for industrial use" in the datasheet does say enough to be sure its good stuff lol.
I have an old east german tractor built in 1960, and it was heavily used to the early 80's, it was also in revision a few times.. And each time they had the tractor in revision they just sprayed another coat of paint on it. Man that stuff is something, i bet it wasn't any good quality back in east german days but it sure is thick and heavy. It orange peels everywhere but it isn't coming off. Apart from a few parts where the paint did wear off there is no severe rust or anything coming through the paint.
I guess some day i might repaint the thing to make it look nice and to protect the parts that have worn off, but i probably won't find paint that will hold up as well ever again :D
With all the environmental laws (don't take me wrong make sense in places) its really hard to get any paint anymore that isn't basically colored water.. I guess 2k is the way to go nowadays.
envigorating information!
It looks nice but I have no idea what practical use painting has for machine tools.
+jules2c paint keeps metal from rusting.
Good job!
I'm enjoying your videos in this series and your overall style of explaining and demonstrating things! Thanks for your efforts.
Question - for the metal parts like the hand wheel which are not painted, what are you using long term to protect them from corrosion? Some sort of wax / oil or other clear finish?
For the love of God please.get rid of that 3 jaw chuck tailstock adapter. That poor tailstock! =( Cool lathe tho, mind me asking what you paid for it?
Jay Walt føf
it doesn't seem like much that lathe but if it works with acceptable toleration, low vibration than it is a nice adition to the lab, i'm sure you are familiar with abom79 channel and as i've seen so far on his channel the ways are more important than the rest so if needed with some scraping it should be good enough, by the way hard work with the paint removal, been there and thow i'm not a fan of chemichal removing it would have made the job a lot easy, pace
Neat project, when are you continuing the series? It seems you havn't posted a continuation, is that because you dropped the project?
Erstmal großes Kompliment für deine Videos, ich habe bis jetzt alle gesehen :)
Machst du auch ein Experiment zu Elektrolyse? Das soll sich ja auch sehr gut dazu eignen, Lack und Rost zu entfernen
in your video about the electric motor you said you'd tell how to identify the wires on a motor???? still going to happen?
+Shaun Tucker Well in my opinion I talked about that in part 2 in sufficient detail. The universal motors uses in washing machines are designed in an open construction style: You can find out which of the wires lead to the commutator brushes and which ones are leading to the tacho generator by a simple visual inspection. The remaining wires belong to the field winding. If there are only two, then there is no problem. If there are three wires left, then you simply have to measure the resistance between the three wires with a multimeter. The resistance between the two ends of the winding will be larger than the resistance between a tap and one of the windings. That's pretty much all there is to it.
Its probably not critical but I would have warmed the casting up with a gas bottle before painting it to extract any moisture from the porous metal .
Do you know the year of production of lathe origin patent
The lathe is cool. For a bit of completeness, what is the status on the edm power supply(s)?
+Mark Rowland My viewers didn't seem to be very interested in the project so I stopped making videos about it. The work on the first prototype is completed, the second prototype is still in the making. I haven't had time for it in the last weeks, but I will see that it gets done once the lathe is running.
+The Post Apocalyptic Inventor Well, not everyone has good taste. As for me, seeing you working on stuff and explaining the engineering, it is always good to hear another person descriptions because the embellishments from personal experience usually add flavor. as an EE, I like the edm design challenges and performance of your trials. As an engineer, seeing the limiting precision factors in your old lathe are a statement of the state-of-art way back when. As a bit of "flavor" an element of interest is the equivalent model of the edm supply and load. Here I am appreciating your effort. thanks
+The Post Apocalyptic Inventor That doesn't mean we don't still watch them! That's an area that far surpasses my knowledge. However I still liked watching them. You always learn something. If not the technical bits, some terms, some how-to's. They provide an insight and for the curious type, they might even plant the seed to learn some more!
+The Post Apocalyptic Inventor Shame I was interested in seeing the build process.
It's not easy to find information on practical power supply design/build.
Hey, did you ever get around to fixing the ways?
no part 3?
Die beste Möglichkeit um Rost zu entfernen ist immer noch Eigenurin.
You are doing pretty well ! And your rust remover is very effective ^^
Did you put any grease in the tailstock ? If I had to recommend any grease it would be the high velocity/pressure/temperature green one from Falcom.
Have a good day and keep up the good work ;)
Wow, I am sure glad Hitler did not inlist you, we all would be speaking German. This is not a negative comment. You work very hard and accomplish a lot. Great job man! If you would like to try some people put plastic auto body filler, Bondo, on the cast iron. Then sand it smooth. It makes the metal body look as if it were a million dollar creation. Very smooth. You can put it over some paints. Test a spot if you wish to try. Like the video!!
Hello Friend. For 1 year you have not updated the progress of the restoration of this metal lathe. Why such a delay? I'm eager to hear the news. Finally tell us, how is the restoration of this lathe metal?
Try sand blasting the rust off
Oh i posted this in the beginning if the video
I have the same
"Its a lathe. Not a sports car." Heck yeah. Its a tool to be used, not to be just looked at.
Meinst du den Teil mit dem Mc. Gayver Allzweck Klebeband? Ernsthaft?
Bin echt schon gespannt wie er die Bettführungen be- misshandelt oder die Geometrie überprüft
(Schlitten steht bekanntlich nicht im rechtencWinkel zur Hauptspindel, Hauptspindel liegt auch mit einem gewissen Maß steigend zumSchlitten in den Lagern , Reitstockpinole sollte auch zur Hauptspindel hin steigen und und und...
Möchte nicht nur nörgeln.Ich
restauriere selbst so alte Werkzeugmaschinen in meiner Freizeit und möchte auf seine Fragestellung, vom glaube ich ersten Video , eingehen ob er damit präzise Drehteile fertigen kann. Natürlich ist das möglich. Man muss sich aber immer vor Augen halten wie alt diese Maschinen sind und sollte nicht wie heute üblich versuchen mit hohen Drehzahlen zu drehen.
Diese Drehmaschinen liefen zumeist über Transnissionswellen und Lederriemen.
Wehrmacht grey paint? :P
Might I suggest that you hand sand the ways with coarse to very fine grits. Oil sanding in the end grits.
The correct of is NEEDLE GUN
Guess what? In Swedish "spindel" = "spider" haha! :D
is it hammerite paint?
+RGplayer101 No it's a type of naval paint (Bootslack) that I bought from an Austrian paint manufacturer (Heinz Schaber).
thanks for the info!
Very dramatic results.
It's a shame you painted it now, It would have looked really nice in hammertone paint.
Finally! :D
Do we ever get to see your face?
Bist du Deutscher ?
Lathe not a sportscar. I plan to buy old sportscar and paint it with the brush, muhahaha. I find that "shiny car" fad not attractive and impractical :)
The "post apocalyptic" color? it's awful!!!
looks great
is this a metal or wood lathe?don't see an apron and/or cross slide/tool post as on a metal lathe or a tool rest as on a wood lathe...also what you call a spindle in the tailstock we might call a "quill" on a metal lathe...whatever you have,it looks to be a worthwhile project...good luck with it!