CLIMBING THE MATTERHORN ~ SEVEN DAYS IN THE ALPS PT1 ~ 2023

To commemerate the 42nd anniversary of Joey's Dad's ascent... we climbed the Matterhorn on July 3rd, 2023 without a guide.
PART TWO: • EIGER ROTSTOK // Eight...
SnowMobile Fund: / gus_batcho
For Xans Art Website See:
artbyxan.com
To see the associated trip report go to:
ridge-proper-a...
#matterhorn #switzerland #zermatt #noguide #hornli #yunitskiy #yunitons #yunits #solvay #hornliridge #mountaineering #mammut

[@tanimowo]

babe wake up gusbatcho posted an hour long video 🥰

[@BULZZixAGP]

This is so incredible. Keep it up!
“If you build it, they will come”

[@gusbatcho]

Thank you!!

[@katewoodford9998]

you sure do know how to have a sufferfest, gus! unreal video and accomplishment! glad you and joey are alive

[@gusbatcho]

Thanks so much!

[@zachspidell9823]

Inspiring af well done

[@mwhite6522]

Seems like the part shortly below the Solvay Hut was really scary.

[@gusbatcho]

imagine the downclimb :0

[@lorddale7475]

Absolutely insane Gus. Huge congrats on the summit and the vid was amazing. Cant wait for the next one

[@gusbatcho]

Thank You!

[@ericl2122]

Hanging it out there boys.
Whew.
Heading there next week for a couple climbs in Cham, then the Matterhorn. 🤞🏼

[@gusbatcho]

Good luck! Have fun!!

[@willfarone5346]

Been watching your vids for a couple months. Next level trip! You guys crushed it. Wife and I leave for Europe on Tuesday. Won’t be on the Matterhorn but other small adventures. Cheers from Carbondale

[@gusbatcho]

Thank you! Have fun in Europe!

[@aventyrskonsulterna]

I N S A NE ! (but fun) 🤣❤

[@chris_floyd1]

just summited end of july, unguided also. Wish I had done as good a job filming as y'all. Props

[@chris_floyd1]

also spent 5 up 8 down with a 2nd night at the hut unplanned. Not the same as CO, thats for sure

[@gusbatcho]

Congrats on the summit!

[@TheConflictMedia.]

Ziemlich gut

[@rangerwoodland]

You should call the production company salted pretzel productions. Insaneo!

[@gusbatcho]

S.P.P Corp

[@emildanler]

Damn good footage

[@emanuel_antohe]

Awesome!
What is the model of the white & brown Hestra gloves you're using?

[@gusbatcho]

They are the climbers long, great grip and dexterity but sliding down the fixed rope chewed up the leather pretty good. Lent them to a buddy for the same climb and now they are full of holes

[@albinomattosfilho9394]

Don´t know why you guys didn´t rope up from the start, but anyway....good job....

[@averywear8295]

Wow, great video. I'm hoping to do this next year. Have you guys done Grand Teton via Owen Spalding? How would you compare the difficulty to that or anything else famous?

[@gusbatcho]

I have not done Grand Teton… yet. The climbing didn’t have any moves that were tougher than things I’ve done in Colorado… but it was much more sustained.

[@MattGoesSkiing]

Talk about exposed the whole way up.

[@c2329ra]

Would you consider a more climbing oriented boots instead of “classic” 4k meter boots? Also, would crampons help with the steep climbing at the 18-20 minutes mark of the video

[@gusbatcho]

I used the la sportiva AEQUILIBRIUM SPEED GTX boot which has more of a climbing toe than other “classic” style boots. I find this very helpful in dry terrain of this difficulty… although you do trade away fully automatic crampons. I don’t think crampons would have helped much on that dry rock section… sometimes you can get better footholds with them but they are generally uncomfortable to use on just straight rock (especially semi automatic)

[@c2329ra]

@@gusbatcho thank you! I imagine willing to go with fully automatic crampons but that would mean climbing with very heavy boots. I remember using semi-automatic crampons and wasting 30mins and so much energy to put them on and off.
This video is a great reality check on the level of difficulty of the Matterhorn. Many videos only say it is difficult but never show actual struggle. 🫶🏻

[@emanuel_antohe]

How many hours you estimate would have took you the hike down from Hornli hut to Zermatt, to skip the 2nd night in the hut?

[@gusbatcho]

I would say it’s an 1-1.5 hours back to the gondola at a casual pace, and if you miss that then you’ve got an extra 5 miles and 3,000ft descent back to zermatt. However the trail seems reasonably nice so I wouldn’t estimate that taking much more than a couple hours

[@ryancascade174]

Sup man, you have a beta on the route you used? GPS data you can share? I want to do the Matterhorn but them guides are asking for an arm and a leg.

[@gusbatcho]

GPS really doesn’t work on the mountain… we used both strava and a handheld unit to record but both came out super jumbled, on the descent they were useless. I did make a trip report which was linked in the description… lmk if that link doesn’t work. As long as you can move safely and quickly you can follow the guided parties but don’t underestimate the descent. It’s a good idea to scout the first section the day before your summit if your timing/weather permits you to do so.

[@SWISSPOWERJET]

Honest statemant :-)) at the End.
On my channel you can learn how to have fun climbing even without summiting.
wish you many more cool climbs

[@svetoslavpetrov8602]

Which is more dangerous, the Matterhorn or Mont Blanc

[@gusbatcho]

The Matterhorn is more dangerous

[@mikecoux]

Lfg