You can speed this up substantially by keeping the plate elevated off the brick and put it on some smaller points like pebbles or machine screws. The fire bricks absorb all the heat out of the part if the part is flat against the brick.
Yes! There are special brazing alloys and in some cases flux. There is aluminum brazing with flux and also without. The flux is a real pain, it has all disadvantages! Corrosive, toxic, hard to buy, short shelf life! The results with it are amazing! Oh, well. The alloy is something like Aluminum with a lot of Silicon. The Lumi-Weld (HTS-2000, and many others) is proprietary, but aluminum/zinc is common as someone has mentioned here. That works, too! You really do have to follow the directions and practice.
Mine didn't melt like that at all, despite getting it cherry hot red as well, I even tried two different torches at once. Could it be not enough flux? I was using coated flux rods.
Excellent vid. The use of MAPGas is great as well. Helps me realise that I do t need an expensive oxy setup. Question though. Can you braze close to the original site without melting the first one? I remember hearing (apocryphally) that the composition of silver solder changes meaning it needs a higher heat once its set?
Some solder manufacturers make alloys with various melting points specifically so you can do multi-stage braze operations on things like boilers. It is very possible to melt (and ruin) existing joints when brazing on new features.
I would (pessimistically) presume that if exposed to saltwater and oxygen, that the silver and the stainless would corrode/react with each other somehow. Should I expect this? (It's OK if 'yes'. I'm not demanding the impossible here. I just want to understand.)
Thank you Sir for the demonstration and most importantly with the informative explanation 🙏💫
You can speed this up substantially by keeping the plate elevated off the brick and put it on some smaller points like pebbles or machine screws. The fire bricks absorb all the heat out of the part if the part is flat against the brick.
Can you cool with dip in oil bath
Nice video. Can aluminum be brazed or is the melting point too low?
Silver solder or one of the low heat aluminum/zinc repair rods which were used to repair pot metal ,which is zinc rich, grills and accessories.
Yes! There are special brazing alloys and in some cases flux. There is aluminum brazing with flux and also without. The flux is a real pain, it has all disadvantages! Corrosive, toxic, hard to buy, short shelf life! The results with it are amazing! Oh, well. The alloy is something like Aluminum with a lot of Silicon. The Lumi-Weld (HTS-2000, and many others) is proprietary, but aluminum/zinc is common as someone has mentioned here. That works, too! You really do have to follow the directions and practice.
Mine didn't melt like that at all, despite getting it cherry hot red as well, I even tried two different torches at once. Could it be not enough flux? I was using coated flux rods.
Did you coat the work in flux also?
Great vid thank you. can I just ask what is the cleaning solvent you use ? Thanks again Lolwit
Not sure what he used but I know alcohol cleaning wipes works wonders
Hi i am umesh Sharma
Can you suggest the best low cost brazing alloy for ms to ss 304 pipes
excellent job sir post more videos regarding manufacturing process
Please show me the label of the Flux and solder so I can buy them
Yes, pleased.. I also need to know..
Excellent vid. The use of MAPGas is great as well. Helps me realise that I do t need an expensive oxy setup.
Question though. Can you braze close to the original site without melting the first one? I remember hearing (apocryphally) that the composition of silver solder changes meaning it needs a higher heat once its set?
Some solder manufacturers make alloys with various melting points specifically so you can do multi-stage braze operations on things like boilers. It is very possible to melt (and ruin) existing joints when brazing on new features.
What kind of flux did u used?
Solprobrazing SP-1 is what the man said.
I would (pessimistically) presume that if exposed to saltwater and oxygen, that the silver and the stainless would corrode/react with each other somehow. Should I expect this? (It's OK if 'yes'. I'm not demanding the impossible here. I just want to understand.)
PICKLE IT
"That's mechanically cleaned..." then rubs his naturally oily, urine acidic fingers on it - he's no scientist, that's for sure!
He then cleans it with solvent, followed by flux.
What type of brazing rod?
The information box under the video says "SilverBraze 55T silver brazing rods"