Great to the point video. I also had issue with binding at full collective pitch and full cyclic. Instead of using beast to limit cyclic at max pitch, you can slightly shorten the servo to swash arms and then re-do the whole head setup. But I understand the video is for beginners and software limits is sufficient for almost all flyers. Thanks for keeping my interest in the hobby.
I had forgotten the brass collars over the screws that connect to the tail blade grips, and that was what was causing all the slop and wag. Microbeast gryo gain of 40%, 60-70% constant throttle curve, upgraded MKS HV9780 tail servo, rotor tech tail blades, and the tail is perfect, heli is rock solid stable now. Plastic tail kit, not the metal one. Thanks for the helpful video!
Very informative! I wish I understood more about what you were doing because I would imagine this would be helpful in setting up the old Blade SR gyros. I don’t know enough about this stuff and I definitely need to learn!!! Thanks Buddy!!!
Tail set up in Gyro gain is super important to have a perfectly performing helicopter. The problem with the blade SR was not so much tail gain but a brushed tail motor with a crappy Gyro together. There wasn’t much you could do back then for the helicopter to make it fly right lol unless you went to a torque tube or belt tail. Happy New Year’s bud!
I like beastX but I’ve since moved to Ikon as my preferred FBL. I flew BeastX for many many years and still have two helis on beastX. My 470 (for now! Going Ikon very soon) and my 600n
Thanks so much great video, Any experience with the TB 40. I have alot more travel rudder left than right.... if the blades are zeroed and all adjustments made prior to microbeast set up, the connectors for the slider don't seem long enough. I can set left limit to match the right in the microbeast but over all travel is not what it should be. What am I doing wrong
Thank you for watching! I don’t have any personal experience with the TB40 but from what I’ve been told and seen the tail is terrible. You’re not doing anything wrong, it’s not symmetrical and does not have even travel left/right.
Thank you for great VDO However, I still have problem with Menu”L” (Cyclic Limit). I use KST215 servo with my 470L. In the menu L, when go to full negative pitch (-12.5 deg) and steer aileron stick, it will bind. From my notice, It comes from ball linkage stuck at servo case. In manual, they said status LED should be blue or red. But for mine, I have to decrease limit until reach purple LED status for avoid binding (manual do not recommend). Therefore, do you have recommendations for the solution of this case??? (I use Beast X v.3.0) Thank you so much 😊
Thank you! I appreciate it, so yes that is a big problem with the align helicopters. The servo geometry is not great but it doesn’t hurt if you are not 100% at the blue or red status light. I have this one set up I believe at purple it’s been a long time since I’ve sent one of these up highly recommend the ikon FBL! You can do so much more with it. Including auto level and rescue.
What a GREAT video...!!!! Thank you so much for all the details that you explained as you went through all the steps. I finally go my heli setup, there is just one thing I want to ask you. After the tail setup, end points etc, should the tail servo center itself when letting go of the rudder stick or should it stay where it is, cause mine does not center itself. Just wanted to know if that was normal before I take my maiden flight. Thanks so much.
Thank you! Im glad the video helped you! So yes it is normal for the tail servo not to center. That is how you know you are in head locking mode which is what you want. If the servo centers when you release the sick then you are in rate mode.
On the trex 500X my elevator servo arm hits the top aluminum shaft plate thing like yours was but theirs a lot of throw left over so I don’t think I get a lot of travel after setting up the servo limits from binding. So mine is set in the red for ok instead of the blue for perfect. I think that causes the micro beast not to have much throw? Any tricks to correct this? I also can’t grind the aluminum for more room. It binds a lot.
How did you mount the receiver inside the frame? I bought mine 7 years ago and it came with this 3 inch cable/ adapter for Spectrum receivers. Becasue it's so short I had to mount my satellite recevier on the left side of the frame so that I could plug it into the microbeast. The adapter has a little circuit board on it. One end plugs into the receiver via the little spectrum white plug and the other end is a typical servo connector that plugs into the microbeast. Is my kit just older or has the microbeast eliminated the need for the this adapter. I didn't notice it on yours. Thanks
You can buy any length satellite wire you want, I make mine but can get them up to 24in long. You leave that adapter plugged into the microbeast buy a regular satellite wire and put the satellite where ever you like.
No, I hardly ever have to balance blades. I can’t tell you the last time I did. But if you need to balance them I would use a blade balancer. You can use tape to balance them but it will peel off. Best way to drill and add glue/epoxy in the tip/bottom. But with today’s blades you never really worry about that. I will use a scale to see if they weigh the same. But 9/10 they are perfect out of the box. If you have a vibration and it started from new blades then that’s when I will start looking into balancing and weight.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Okay thanks again your response. Yes I didn’t see a video on your channel about this so I figured that was the case. Looking forward to starting my 470lp build! I ordered the 74mm tail blades with the kit but after watching your videos I will run the stock 69mm blades.
@@jetsam38 many years ago when the blades were very inconsistent and a lot cheaper or fiberglass, or even would yes, you had to balance way then CG them all that stuff. But! The blades in today’s market in standard are almost perfect every time and if they are off just a little bit, it’s not enough to notice or have an issue. Good luck on your build! The 470 is a fun heli! I personally don’t see the need for the 74mm tail blades. I’m now run a iKon 2 FBL but the rest of the helicopter is completely stock and as long as your tail is set up mechanically right, your tail performance will be just fine with the 69mm blades.
What rates and expo would you say is a good starting place I have no problems with my omps at 100 for rates and 5-20 for expo but on this it dosnt feel the same at those settings
What is your FBL set up like? Your servo response? I personally do not fly with any expo, I can’t stand it I actually make curved to take out the factory dead band. I like my helicopter set up super responsive and fast. But! For a normal person I would recommend slowing down your servo response in the FBL event on video first. Because if you slow it down in your radio it only slows down what it tells the FBL but the FBL is still going to react at the same speed.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 same setup stock 470lmp super dom kit. I don’t fly expo typically but I been trying to figure out this 470 I guess I’ll check the fbl settings should I start with cyclic response? I left all of my parameters at Rec settings
@@Mao_tse_tung We’ve all settings the way you have it just go into cyclic response. Turn it all the way down I believe it’s blue solid? Don’t remember off the top my head but turn it down to the I guess beginner mode. It will be super slow response. Try it if it is too slow for you go up one at a time until you find a comfortable setting. Once you get that fuel right then you can fine-tune DR and EXPO in your radio.
Ciao bel video, anch'io ho il 470 ,puoi dirmi di che misura devo mettere le paline di coda,cioe' mm69,o mm78? E'quale la differenza in volo? Grazie ciao
Any idea why, when out of the setup menu i have very little travel even after doing all this correctly? After doing this set up and going to F it works full travel nice and smooth in set up point F but then out of set up menu it hardly moves and sound's kind of like its binding.
No that’s a weird one. I don’t think I’ve ever run into that issue, if you still can’t figure it out I would recommend resetting the FBL and starting over but first make sure you have 100% travel in the radio
What up bro?...another great video and ive been debating on getting that align 470...anyways, sorry that this has nothing to do with your video but ive been watching this dudes channel nonstop..."MrBallen"...he is a ex-navy seal that tells all these cool stories and stuff that most people wouldn't know about...so if you are bored and want to listen to a creepy or mysterious story then check his channel out.
What’s up buddy! I highly recommend it. It’s a great helicopter perfect size for every day flying or learning something new and still keep the crash. I am very glad that I purchased a 470 perfect addition to my fleet. I definitely got a check out his channel I like to listen/watch that kind of stuff when I’m building’
@@westhobbiesrc8051 ...his channel is pretty cool and like i said he researches these stories and then tells the "backstories" that is associated with them and usually includes a picture or video that is related to the story...here is a example...we all know that the titanic sank because it hit an iceberg but what most people dont know is that there was a "first officer" or whatever that was originally supposed to go on and oversee the trip but because he had not that much experience in big ships they replaced him with somebody else less than twelve hours or so before it set sail with someone that was more experienced with larger ships so this guy had to get his stuff and off the ship in a hurry and at that same time the passengers was loading so its was a little bit hectic for him and being in a hurry he had mistakenly took the keys to this special cabinet that had all of the binoculars in it...basically the ships observers testified that if they had binoculars then they would have seen the ice berg...anyways, enjoy:)
can't solve my tail wag- tried inner servo horn hole belt tension adjustments no binding no slop various gain adjustments 74 mm blades next will try head speed and or pitch if I could loose the wag all would be great
How are you adjusting belt tension? Also try turning the governor off as you posted in the other video that you were running a governor? I did help someone a week ago that was having lag issues and ended up being a governor issue because you will get governor chatter that will cause a wag. My gain settings are 60% in normal mode 59% in Idle 1 and 40% in Idle 2. Of course yours may be different but I would start there and tune just the until the gain goes away and then add it back by 3% at a time until you get it back and then turn it back 3% and now you have the optimal tail Gain.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 was setting belt tension by the book- will try old school to get a litte tighter. Was running the esc gov but will turn it off. What were your throttles? wWill plug in your gains and then tune it thx! West? west here in Seattle
@@skypilot23 follow the way I do it in the video. Only way I’ve found to get the perfect tail belt tension. My throttle cures are normal model 0-25-50-60-60 and Idle 1 75 flat and Idle 2 100 flat. You’re welcome! Yes west. That’s awesome!
just curious...did u take a reading on if the heli itself was level?...not gonna get an accurate measure on the blades if the heli is not sitting level and true
As long as you use a level part of the heli (FBL or Motor) witch is what I always use then you will have a true level blade. The heli can 50 degrees as long as you blade is level to the heli that’s what matters.been doing it that was for 20 plus years.
can u tell me hows come when i put my pitch guage on the heli..right in front of the main shaft...turn it on..then i zero it out..why does it read give me some astranomical reading like 40 some degrees?..i cant figure it out ...i was able to get my zero at midstick..and my cylcic and pitch limits properly...i used a tork drive rod out of a little 130x..stuck a coreless magnet on it in the middle..then stuck it on my rotor blockk and was able to use my regular guage then ...my hillbilly ingenuity saved the day lol
I have to put so much right tail pitch in my 470. I go in rate mode and make sure heli hovers strait. I have been fighting a small tail wag since day one. Anyone els constantly having a wag with 470? Im running gear drive tail.
@@dustinplee5067 First thing you will need to do is a ESC calibration and double check your radio set up and make sure your order at 0% throttle when powering up
You limit travel so there is no binding. Folding the blade is to only see how much right pitch you have at center stick and to gyro Direction. Don’t matter if it’s folded or not to set travel you look for binding and less/add as need be.
One of the video you posted of your henselheit flight, I've heard in the video your Radiomaster was giving battery feedback percentage. Any chance you could share how this was done? Can't believe never though to of it before. Have timer set to call out ever minute but why not percentage which is what actually is much more useful. I would greatly appreciated.
@@TomBenette-lx7sf I don’t fly Radiomaster, I fly Vcontorl/Vbar. That’s is something only the control does and it is a game changer! You can fly the full capacity of your batteries, not just minute by minute that way if you decide to have a slow easy flight or a hard flight, it is automatically adjusted for.
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
Great to the point video. I also had issue with binding at full collective pitch and full cyclic. Instead of using beast to limit cyclic at max pitch, you can slightly shorten the servo to swash arms and then re-do the whole head setup. But I understand the video is for beginners and software limits is sufficient for almost all flyers. Thanks for keeping my interest in the hobby.
This video is high quality, the method and explanation are straight to the issue! Thanks a lot!
You’re welcome! Glad it helped!
Agreed, great video, so helpful, thank you! A lot of these important setup details just aren't in the manuals, or if they are, they're not so clear.
I had forgotten the brass collars over the screws that connect to the tail blade grips, and that was what was causing all the slop and wag. Microbeast gryo gain of 40%, 60-70% constant throttle curve, upgraded MKS HV9780 tail servo, rotor tech tail blades, and the tail is perfect, heli is rock solid stable now. Plastic tail kit, not the metal one. Thanks for the helpful video!
Very informative! I wish I understood more about what you were doing because I would imagine this would be helpful in setting up the old Blade SR gyros. I don’t know enough about this stuff and I definitely need to learn!!! Thanks Buddy!!!
Tail set up in Gyro gain is super important to have a perfectly performing helicopter. The problem with the blade SR was not so much tail gain but a brushed tail motor with a crappy Gyro together. There wasn’t much you could do back then for the helicopter to make it fly right lol unless you went to a torque tube or belt tail. Happy New Year’s bud!
I am so happy I have your videos to go back to if I get a Heli eventually. Happy new year to you buddy 👍🏻
Happy new year buddy! Hopefully one day you’ll go to the Darkside and fly helicopters as well!
Great video, very helpful.
Thank you!
BeastX for life!!!
I like beastX but I’ve since moved to Ikon as my preferred FBL. I flew BeastX for many many years and still have two helis on beastX. My 470 (for now! Going Ikon very soon) and my 600n
Thanks so much great video, Any experience with the TB 40. I have alot more travel rudder left than right.... if the blades are zeroed and all adjustments made prior to microbeast set up, the connectors for the slider don't seem long enough. I can set left limit to match the right in the microbeast but over all travel is not what it should be. What am I doing wrong
Thank you for watching! I don’t have any personal experience with the TB40 but from what I’ve been told and seen the tail is terrible. You’re not doing anything wrong, it’s not symmetrical and does not have even travel left/right.
Great info 👍
Thank you!
Thank you for great VDO
However, I still have problem with Menu”L” (Cyclic Limit).
I use KST215 servo with my 470L.
In the menu L, when go to full negative pitch (-12.5 deg) and steer aileron stick, it will bind.
From my notice, It comes from ball linkage stuck at servo case.
In manual, they said status LED should be blue or red. But for mine, I have to decrease limit until reach purple LED status for avoid binding (manual do not recommend).
Therefore, do you have recommendations for the solution of this case???
(I use Beast X v.3.0)
Thank you so much 😊
Thank you! I appreciate it, so yes that is a big problem with the align helicopters. The servo geometry is not great but it doesn’t hurt if you are not 100% at the blue or red status light. I have this one set up I believe at purple it’s been a long time since I’ve sent one of these up highly recommend the ikon FBL! You can do so much more with it. Including auto level and rescue.
What a GREAT video...!!!!
Thank you so much for all the details that you explained as you went through all the steps.
I finally go my heli setup, there is just one thing I want to ask you.
After the tail setup, end points etc, should the tail servo center itself when letting go of the rudder stick or should it stay where it is, cause mine does not center itself.
Just wanted to know if that was normal before I take my maiden flight.
Thanks so much.
Thank you! Im glad the video helped you! So yes it is normal for the tail servo not to center. That is how you know you are in head locking mode which is what you want. If the servo centers when you release the sick then you are in rate mode.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Thanks for replying so quickly.
Keep up the great work.
On the trex 500X my elevator servo arm hits the top aluminum shaft plate thing like yours was but theirs a lot of throw left over so I don’t think I get a lot of travel after setting up the servo limits from binding. So mine is set in the red for ok instead of the blue for perfect. I think that causes the micro beast not to have much throw? Any tricks to correct this? I also can’t grind the aluminum for more room. It binds a lot.
Noob question.. What's the difference between the LP and LM?
LP is plastic parts and LM is metal parts.
How did you mount the receiver inside the frame? I bought mine 7 years ago and it came with this 3 inch cable/ adapter for Spectrum receivers. Becasue it's so short I had to mount my satellite recevier on the left side of the frame so that I could plug it into the microbeast. The adapter has a little circuit board on it. One end plugs into the receiver via the little spectrum white plug and the other end is a typical servo connector that plugs into the microbeast. Is my kit just older or has the microbeast eliminated the need for the this adapter. I didn't notice it on yours. Thanks
You can buy any length satellite wire you want, I make mine but can get them up to 24in long. You leave that adapter plugged into the microbeast buy a regular satellite wire and put the satellite where ever you like.
Do you weigh and balance new align blades? If so, do you just use a digital scale and regular tape? thanks!
No, I hardly ever have to balance blades. I can’t tell you the last time I did. But if you need to balance them I would use a blade balancer. You can use tape to balance them but it will peel off. Best way to drill and add glue/epoxy in the tip/bottom. But with today’s blades you never really worry about that. I will use a scale to see if they weigh the same. But 9/10 they are perfect out of the box. If you have a vibration and it started from new blades then that’s when I will start looking into balancing and weight.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Okay thanks again your response. Yes I didn’t see a video on your channel about this so I figured that was the case. Looking forward to starting my 470lp build! I ordered the 74mm tail blades with the kit but after watching your videos I will run the stock 69mm blades.
@@jetsam38 many years ago when the blades were very inconsistent and a lot cheaper or fiberglass, or even would yes, you had to balance way then CG them all that stuff. But! The blades in today’s market in standard are almost perfect every time and if they are off just a little bit, it’s not enough to notice or have an issue. Good luck on your build! The 470 is a fun heli! I personally don’t see the need for the 74mm tail blades. I’m now run a iKon 2 FBL but the rest of the helicopter is completely stock and as long as your tail is set up mechanically right, your tail performance will be just fine with the 69mm blades.
Can you help ..trex 470 and beastx.set up L.the swash servos ball links hit the servo.on full range to get blue light.this heli is pissing me off
What rates and expo would you say is a good starting place I have no problems with my omps at 100 for rates and 5-20 for expo but on this it dosnt feel the same at those settings
What is your FBL set up like? Your servo response? I personally do not fly with any expo, I can’t stand it I actually make curved to take out the factory dead band. I like my helicopter set up super responsive and fast. But! For a normal person I would recommend slowing down your servo response in the FBL event on video first. Because if you slow it down in your radio it only slows down what it tells the FBL but the FBL is still going to react at the same speed.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 same setup stock 470lmp super dom kit. I don’t fly expo typically but I been trying to figure out this 470 I guess I’ll check the fbl settings should I start with cyclic response? I left all of my parameters at Rec settings
@@Mao_tse_tung We’ve all settings the way you have it just go into cyclic response. Turn it all the way down I believe it’s blue solid? Don’t remember off the top my head but turn it down to the I guess beginner mode. It will be super slow response. Try it if it is too slow for you go up one at a time until you find a comfortable setting. Once you get that fuel right then you can fine-tune DR and EXPO in your radio.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 thanks I appreciate the help I’ll give that a try
Anytime! Glad I can help!
Ciao bel video, anch'io ho il 470 ,puoi dirmi di che misura devo mettere le paline di coda,cioe' mm69,o mm78? E'quale la differenza in volo? Grazie ciao
How is it you come out with a video everytime I need one!
Luck I guess! Lol I’m glad you find them helpful!
Any idea why, when out of the setup menu i have very little travel even after doing all this correctly? After doing this set up and going to F it works full travel nice and smooth in set up point F but then out of set up menu it hardly moves and sound's kind of like its binding.
No that’s a weird one. I don’t think I’ve ever run into that issue, if you still can’t figure it out I would recommend resetting the FBL and starting over but first make sure you have 100% travel in the radio
Hello mate. How and where did you zero out your pitch gauge before setting it up?many thanks!
Hello, I always zero my pitch gauge out on my motor or FBL unit tray. Those will be the two levelest spots on any helicopter.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 sounds stupid but across the motor or back to the front which is a bit differcult lol
What up bro?...another great video and ive been debating on getting that align 470...anyways, sorry that this has nothing to do with your video but ive been watching this dudes channel nonstop..."MrBallen"...he is a ex-navy seal that tells all these cool stories and stuff that most people wouldn't know about...so if you are bored and want to listen to a creepy or mysterious story then check his channel out.
What’s up buddy! I highly recommend it. It’s a great helicopter perfect size for every day flying or learning something new and still keep the crash. I am very glad that I purchased a 470 perfect addition to my fleet. I definitely got a check out his channel I like to listen/watch that kind of stuff when I’m building’
@@westhobbiesrc8051 ...his channel is pretty cool and like i said he researches these stories and then tells the "backstories" that is associated with them and usually includes a picture or video that is related to the story...here is a example...we all know that the titanic sank because it hit an iceberg but what most people dont know is that there was a "first officer" or whatever that was originally supposed to go on and oversee the trip but because he had not that much experience in big ships they replaced him with somebody else less than twelve hours or so before it set sail with someone that was more experienced with larger ships so this guy had to get his stuff and off the ship in a hurry and at that same time the passengers was loading so its was a little bit hectic for him and being in a hurry he had mistakenly took the keys to this special cabinet that had all of the binoculars in it...basically the ships observers testified that if they had binoculars then they would have seen the ice berg...anyways, enjoy:)
Definitely going to check out the channel. I definitely like that kind of stuff as well. Always great to know different sides of a story!
can't solve my tail wag- tried
inner servo horn hole
belt tension adjustments
no binding no slop
various gain adjustments
74 mm blades
next will try head speed and or pitch
if I could loose the wag all would be great
How are you adjusting belt tension? Also try turning the governor off as you posted in the other video that you were running a governor? I did help someone a week ago that was having lag issues and ended up being a governor issue because you will get governor chatter that will cause a wag. My gain settings are 60% in normal mode 59% in Idle 1 and 40% in Idle 2. Of course yours may be different but I would start there and tune just the until the gain goes away and then add it back by 3% at a time until you get it back and then turn it back 3% and now you have the optimal tail Gain.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 was setting belt tension by the book- will try old school to get a litte tighter.
Was running the esc gov but will turn it off.
What were your throttles?
wWill plug in your gains and then tune it
thx! West? west here in Seattle
@@skypilot23 follow the way I do it in the video. Only way I’ve found to get the perfect tail belt tension. My throttle cures are normal model 0-25-50-60-60 and Idle 1 75 flat and Idle 2 100 flat. You’re welcome! Yes west. That’s awesome!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 just by tighter belt and 60 gain wag eliminated!
your channel is the cat's meow
@@skypilot23 awesome! I, glad it’s fixed! Now enjoy the 470, it’s a incredible heli!
just curious...did u take a reading on if the heli itself was level?...not gonna get an accurate measure on the blades if the heli is not sitting level and true
As long as you use a level part of the heli (FBL or Motor) witch is what I always use then you will have a true level blade. The heli can 50 degrees as long as you blade is level to the heli that’s what matters.been doing it that was for 20 plus years.
can u tell me hows come when i put my pitch guage on the heli..right in front of the main shaft...turn it on..then i zero it out..why does it read give me some astranomical reading like 40 some degrees?..i cant figure it out ...i was able to get my zero at midstick..and my cylcic and pitch limits properly...i used a tork drive rod out of a little 130x..stuck a coreless magnet on it in the middle..then stuck it on my rotor blockk and was able to use my regular guage then ...my hillbilly ingenuity saved the day lol
I have to put so much right tail pitch in my 470. I go in rate mode and make sure heli hovers strait. I have been fighting a small tail wag since day one. Anyone els constantly having a wag with 470? Im running gear drive tail.
I have zero Tailwag on any of the 470s I have built or set up. You have to hold right to hover?
How do I fix my tail rotor to quit stop spinning It not touching the throttle when I plug the battery in and my blades are not put on
Not quite sure I understand? It is free spinning with no battery plugged in? Or when you plug the battery in the motor start spinning?
@@westhobbiesrc8051 When I plug the battery in it is spinning and will not stop
@@dustinplee5067 First thing you will need to do is a ESC calibration and double check your radio set up and make sure your order at 0% throttle when powering up
It seems weird to limit the tail rotor pitch with the blade folded 90 degrees. It could never fly like that, why limit the travel?
You limit travel so there is no binding. Folding the blade is to only see how much right pitch you have at center stick and to gyro Direction. Don’t matter if it’s folded or not to set travel you look for binding and less/add as need be.
One of the video you posted of your henselheit flight, I've heard in the video your Radiomaster was giving battery feedback percentage. Any chance you could share how this was done? Can't believe never though to of it before. Have timer set to call out ever minute but why not percentage which is what actually is much more useful. I would greatly appreciated.
@@TomBenette-lx7sf I don’t fly Radiomaster, I fly Vcontorl/Vbar. That’s is something only the control does and it is a game changer! You can fly the full capacity of your batteries, not just minute by minute that way if you decide to have a slow easy flight or a hard flight, it is automatically adjusted for.