I'm a bit surprised your geothermal heat pump has such an in rush. Over here (EU) I'm used to inverter driven heat pumps being more common than single phase direct driven ones
We have used the ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Thanks for the capacity and efficiency data you collected. Your numbers match up pretty will with I'm seeing out of mine. One DeltaPro runs my refrigerator 24x7 off six 100W panels.
great walk thru of how this system works, the lack of the 120v outlet on the hub was why i went with the bluetti ac300 system. I have set mine up with 240 split phase and have been using it to run several circuits in my house for about 4 months now. the short winter days have been an eye opener on how much different the solar part delivers. my biggest gripe is the way the cables are connected to the batteries and inverters. Hope Bluetti sends you a system to showcase like you did here. I would like to see a head to head comparison from you.
Thanks for the feedback. People don't realize how dramatic the difference in solar production is between summer and winter. The number of panels needed is defined more by low light winter production, that's why the bifacial panels are such a great advancement. I do have a connection with Bluetti, I reviewed the EB70S some time ago ( watch here: ruclips.net/video/LAjirHJ-t6s/видео.html ), but it would be a while before I can do the AC300, I already have content planned for the next several months. Thanks!
Dave, I'm so glad I found your channel! I'm about to embark on a DIY grid-tie roof solar system and your videos/website have been invaluable. I'd love to collaborate if you ever do that sort of thing. Keep up the great work!
Stellar review of a very capable system. Very much appreciate your detailed attention for various configurations supported by meaningful data. Additionally, employing this as a plug and play off grid/mobile solution with 240v support is a game changer for those seeking installation/maintenance simplicity. Lastly, I'll need to review the inverters low frequency capacity/limitations (as you spotlighted with your 3Ton heatpump), Ecoflow's implementation of precharge resistors in the circuit, as well as future iterations of the product family containing heat mats/blankets to enable low temp charging when a power source is readily available. Again, great review and supporting data. Thank you for this.
@@ProjectsWithDave How does that not blow your breaker? Even on a 100A breaker I wouldn't think that load would be tolerated for more than fraction of a second and I'd be surprised if a 4 ton unit was spec'd for more than 50 or 60 amp breaker.
Thanks for showing the workings of a breaker box. I never cared more than turning a breaker off and on. I never new that there were switches that can be moved around to balance a load. Do you think? A person would need some electrical experience to use a eco flow delta pro. Or!!! It is a plug and play experience. Taking in all the components ( such as the solar panels with tracking and smart generator and 50 amp hub and any other product that will work well with these units). ( you answered part of my question at the end of video) ( I was typing while watching the video) Eco flow should allow you to show what a max system would look like with all the accessories. That would be a great video. I know that there is a limit to how much solar one delta pro can be optimally connected too without a overload. They need too fix that balancing of batteries. You should also show the solution to get the batteries to work simultaneously or equal draw in the video. Great video!!!
Again, nice job Dave. I think there's a whole lot of us "out in the country" who appreciate ground mounted panels and robust battery storage. Especially when you're on a well. That seems to make you a kind of "problem child" when installers encounter it. That said, just a sidebar: we also have a geothermal system with a ClimateMaster heatpump. I discussed this very issue with my installer; running it off a generator or battery. Pretty much academic for me as I wouldn't expect that capability on my budget but with a pellet stove, I'd still like to be able to switch on the fan coil air circulator. He acknowledged the startup surge as the challenge but told me if I wanted they could retrofit a "Soft Start" module just to handle that. Haven't gone past that to dig deeper though.
I have a soft start module on mine. I wonder if it isn't working properly because that startup current was way too high. I'm going to look into it more. I'm a mechanical engineer by trade not an electrician, so I have to learn everything independently as I go. My air handler is a separate unit and I can run that no problem. For a completely off-grid setup I think the new solar powered min split systems would be ideal. I'm considering installing one and trying it out. ( AC/DC solar powered min split: signaturesolar.com/eg4-hybrid-ac-dc-solar-air-conditioner-2-ton/?ref=SALE )
@@ProjectsWithDave those solar ASHPs look pretty simple to connect. My biggest question would be I don't see any mention of them feeding back into the house grid if the climate is temperate and no conditioning is needed, would any solar power generated by those panels be wasted in that case?
Adding the double voltage hub does not prevent the 120v outlets on the front to be disabled, they just need to be turned on. At least that's how mine is working! There's also a setting that controls the length of time it's on. The hub is connected, but the main breaker is not on. I'm running pumps, washing machine, fans, and more from the ac outputs on the front of the unit. I only plan on using 240v when the power company goes down. The rest of the time I can run several things in my garage off line, reducing my electric bill.
16:07 - the 20% unused or left over or "efficiency" that you mentioned is most probably not the inverters efficiency but the battery DOD or battery shutdown threshold setting in the inverter. Check the battery protection setting of the inverter, it may give some enlightenment.
Nice video! We just ordered ordered a Delta Pro and battery, looking forward to runnning part of the house and have peace of mind if we are away that the sump pump will run.
You're in an extreme cold temperature area, I wish someone would do a similar review in a high temperature area where we need a large central AC unit running for most of the day. We need AC about 8 months out of the year. Very nice and detailed review though.
Another solar/DC input option, is the Anderson powerpole adapter cable. I built an XT60 to APP pigtail so I had an easy to use breakway from my solar cable that's semi-permanently installed. This cable is 12/3 type TC-ER Tray Cable. The cable has the Anderson Plug on one end, and goes to MC4 to pickup the panels on the rooftop. It also functions as a portsaver, taking wear off the XT60 inlet on the unit itself. Oh, and place a blocking diode inline of the solar array to prevent drain, and a DC rated disconnect switch for safety and lockout/tagout compliance.
Thank you. After heat pump test I was bummed out !bigtime. BUT! I'm checking out my 5 ton Water Furnace and it has a variable speed compressor soft start. Better borrow my son Fluke with the loop before I purchase anything.
@@ProjectsWithDave My 3.5 ton (16seer) pulled 84 amps, now only 25 with soft start. I've got to think that 200 amp drag and noise is sign of an imminent failure! Great work!
!!Important!! Need to remember that when using an interlock or transfer switch, it's important to know if you are also switching the neutrals. This will determine if you have a separately derived system or not. If your first means of disconnect is your main breaker panel and you are not switching a neutral, the grounding, conductor that is connecting to your battery backup could also be carrying current equal to the neutral. This is why it's important if you don't know what you're doing have an electrician install this for you. Don't make a mistake that could kill someone. Most people assume that grounding conductors are always safe, but they can become hot in certain conditions.
Fantastic video. Thank you so much for diving deeper into this use-case than I've seen before. One question: You seem to say that your well pump continues to pull several hundred watts even after the "surge" of turning on. Does your well pump require that at all times? I was under the impression that it shut off completely when not filling the water tank. Thanks!
Good question, I should have made that more clear in the video, but I can only cover so much without making the video too long. I have an on demand well pump. The initial surge was to bring the system up to pressure, it then runs at a lower power to maintain pressure as long as water is running. The accumulation tank is only 5" in diameter.
very good testing, I'm assuming the new UPS can be charged from your Solar panels, I missed that, I'm sure they came already charged, but how do you have them connected to your Solar system?, they should make them Server Rack compatible and just incorporate them in one small cabinet, with internal wiring, they can still ship separately and remain cosmetically presentable after installation
4300 watts! Holy cow! Good to know that these things will TOTALLY exceed their specs of a total of 3600 watts.. Dang! I have three of these Delta Pro's, with has two external batteries and I'm not done with my solar system. I just REALLY wish that they could have a LOT more than 1600 watts of solar charging. I believe it's the volts that should be higher, this alone should raise the solar incoming watts. GREAT video!!!
Yes, the low max voltage is the big limiting factor on improving the solar input. I think we will see that improve in the future. The competition in the market is pushing it up.
4300 watts is 100 hours of running a 43 watt light bulb and nothing else. Wow everyone needs one of these. Just like we all need EV automobiles despite the lack of convenient charging stations and the grid needed to support such a massive increase in power demand. The lemmings are runnung us all toward the cliff. Enjoy the view as we all go over.
I have this set up with 3200 watts of solar. One extra battery is on the leg with the refrigerator on it. It powers the desert house pretty well except in summer when air conditioning with mini splits needing to run at night. Has your system just randomly shut down for no reason? This happens from time to time and it’s the one gripe I have about the Delta Pro 240 volt split phase system.😮 Everything in the fridge could be ruined if this happens when I’m away.
The Delta Pro is probably the most versatile power station I could get my hands on because I can charge it thru solar panels, AC outlet, Smart Generator and most unique of all is charging it at an EV station.
I just received the EV charging adaptor in the mail. Unfortunately, I didn't get it in time for this video, but I do plan to try it out. It's a very unique feature.
The initial mismatch in voltages that you saw can be caused by a faulty neutral, so check your infrastructure for clues. Classic symptom is the two legs of your panel being +/- 1-3 V AC.
Kudos to you for such an informative video. I can only assume you're an electrician by trade. I've been beta testing their equipment since the company started and almost everything you said in this video was spot on. Very impressive. Too bad they didn't send you a DPU to play with.
Thanks, but I'm actually a mechanical engineer by trade. Most things electrical are on the job training. I did wire my entire house including the meter panel and breaker panels, so lots of jobs to learn on.
I have used a few different current meters and they all gave different results. I only found one that I trusted for accuracy. And it wasn't a Fluke! This was at work. I had to measure current for testing a new machine before shipping. The best was an Extech. $300 US. Maybe you shouldn't point the heat gun at the black power cord.
@@ProjectsWithDave I tried both meters and the Extech was correct. Both were in calibration. But, thinking about it the Fluke had a much higher capability(range). So don't trust your Fluke for milliamps measuring.
Thanks! The price and capability continues to improve on these power stations. It's a fun space to be working in, it seems like there is something new on the market every day.
Hey Dave at 20:07 I don’t know if any heat is coming out of the heat gun but your dog is definitely dropping a deuce in your video above your head at the top of the screen. 😂
I'm so glad the algorithm suggested your video. New subscriber here! I have always lived in areas with primarily gas heating, so I've only seen 100-200 amp services. I was shocked that just your heat pump used that much! What kind of service do you have?
With every breaker off i plugged in my 4 units and with no load but the wire to the breaker box it goes into overload they say it needs a update so eventually it has to be connected to the internet. So these things won't allow you to be off grid. Anything that makes you be connected can be turned off
Great job putting together this video and showing all the plug and play ooptions. But I still have a question: I am planning to get only one Delta Pro unit....is there a way to connect said single unit to the wall plug? or I still need the hub (shown to connect 2 units) and then connect from there to the wall plug?
Each unit comes with a plug for connecting to a standard 120V outlet. This plug is used to charge the unit from home AC power or to use the unit in UPS mode. You can set the charge speed to fast or slow with a switch on the back side of the unit.
@@ProjectsWithDave Hi Dave. I was not referring about how to charge a single unit but about how to use only one unit to power some circuits of the house. Around min 3:15 you plug both to the power hub. But, do I still need a power hub if I have only one unit? Thanks so much.
No. You only need to hub for setting up split phase. Of course you will only be able to power 120V devices with one unit. In this video I show powering only 120V devices with a single Bluetti: ruclips.net/video/_QMe8DWlr30/видео.html
@Projects With Everyday Dave was curious if you were to connect both Delta Pros with their extra battery cable on the back of each unit. Would that allow you to charge the other Delta Pro when you are connected to solar charging and help balance out the units? Haven't seen anybody try that. Thanks for the review.
Extra batteries gives you more capacity to work with, but it doesn't allow for balancing. It would give you more time and methods to correct imbalances, for instance you could add more solar to the inverter that is getting more demand, or put the extra battery on the leg with more demand.
Not directly, but you can see the calculated result on the fridge test was 18W. (fridge test 15:37 ) The book value is 30W for both AC and DC combined.
Yes, you can add solar panels and additional battery capacity. EcoFlow has their own expansion batteries. Here is a link: us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-pro-smart-extra-battery?aff=632
Thanks for this video. I also have two DPs and I am wondering if the rear ac input port shuts off when the double voltage hub is being used. I would like to charge the DPs with my inverter generator via ac. Thanks
I have run the Double Voltage Hub with DC input with no issues. However, I tested your scenario and it does not work. I connected the AC input, the unit started charging. I turned on the hub and it immediately stopped charging. I turned off the hub and it started charging again. Hope that helps.
@@ProjectsWithDave Thanks for testing this which for brings up another idea. If one has the DP extension battery, does that AC input also get turned off when using the dual voltage hub? In other words. I know the DP turns off the AC input with connected to the DV hub but does it also turn off the ac input on the connected extension batter
I canceled my order for a second delta pro with hub today after finding out using the 250v hub outlet disables simultaneous charging of the units. That is insane! Deal breaker.
Thanks for the great analysis. Whats your best answer for that problem of using to backup whole house, but having an uneven rate of drain on one of the Delta Pro's? In that case you could end up with one battery emptying out after just a few hours and the remaining battery has 85% left. That means my 240 function is bye bye. Besides re-doing whole panel to try to "balance loads", any other fixes you may suggest? Either way, thanx!
The question I can’t seem to get answered regarding these delta pro’s is Will it Work in ups mode while using the 240volt hub? And can it charge while being used in 240 mode?
The units will charge using solar power even when connected to the 240V hub. I illustrate that in the video. However, they will not work in UPS mode or charge from the AC power input port when the 240V hub is turned on. Hope that helps.
This is the splitter on the Ecoflow site: us.ecoflow.com/products/double-voltage-hub-ecoflow-delta-pro?aff=632 On the Ecoflow site you could try the code "EFDAVE5" for 5% off, but I haven't checked lately to see if it still works. Or you can get it on Amazon here: amzn.to/3Ovywkj
Love the review. I have solar on the roof of my house but it supplies back to grid only. How can I hook up 2 eco flow delta pro to my house? Do I need separate solar panels to charge the deltas? All help greatly appreciated.
You can use the EcoFlow without solar as a UPS or backup power source. You can charge it during the day through a standard wall outlet when your panels are producing power, then use it to supply power to separate devices. If you want to make it an independent system, you would need additional panels dedicated for the unit.
@@ProjectsWithDave do the eco flow panels charge up the delta pros while they are being used? Do they charge enough to keep them charged up for continued use
The Delta Pro's can take a significant solar input. I have been using a 1200W /90V array to keep mine charged for months off grid with my dehumidifier running as a constant load. Depending on the weather and how much the dehumidifier runs, sometimes the battery runs out of power. If I had the expansion battery, I think that I would rarely run out of power since I often am charged to 100% on sunny days.
Great review. Do you plan to test their Smart Panel device? That prevents manual switching. But it has limitations. What about your existing solar panel array? Are you planning to tie into the Delta Pros? Lastly, comparing your current solar system (with all its components) to the DP setup, would you consider them equals in performance and price? One better than the other? Great content Dave. Thank you.
I don't have a current plan to test the Smart Panel, but I wouldn't rule it out for a future activity. For smaller portable units like the Delta pro, I use a small array of 6 used panels. The portable units can't handle the higher voltages coming from my main array and it makes more sense to use cheap clearance or used panels for small emergency backup systems. Every system has its pros and cons, it just depends on your specific criteria.
Great info, I wonder if you could get a splitter for the solar panel cord and simultaneously change both ecoflow pro's at the same time or would that blow something.
Very nice testing! Thank you for doing this! Ya I was bummed to see my unit NOT come with a solar connector being a "solar generator" lol I've noticed on the double voltage hub each leg of the outlet comes from each unit. Makes sense. To bad they don't balance for charging or usage.
@ProjectsWithDave absolutely! I agree with the extra battery port that could balance the batteries. Of course this would take away from the total capability of capacity. I've got one delta pro sonfar and maybe next year I'll snag another with the home panel. I decided on the ecoflow other than solarnand battery on the house for in case we move or need the battery somewhere else. Thanks for the reply!
no mention of battery chemistry. is it LIthium ion? What would you recommend as a similar non portable battery backup addition to my solar system design?
The batteries are LiFePO4. If you don't want portable but still want flexible I would install a system like this one: ruclips.net/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/видео.html
I THINK WHAT WE NEED IS TO WELD IN THE FIELD LETS SAY WITH A small 110 arc welder, but keep the power supply connected to a 110 power plug meanwhile I am welding. that way we are using and replacing the currient, is that posible , any conflict with That! THAT WAY ITS GOING TO BE A NON STOP WELDING is there anyting like this outhere
Excellent tutorial, you covered everything in detail, although I have a backup power system in my house, I enjoyed watching your video just in case I might have done something wrong on my setup. When I first started testing my unit my wife saw me out there by the generator plug, with two of her hair dryers and two of our heaters, this is a pretty excellent way of checking your capacity. Anyway my system paid off, the December 2022, storm left us without power for almost 20 hours. Of course we were the only one on our street with backup power running refrigerator and freezers that were working all the time. A few days later we had to here sad stories from our neighbors that lost all their food, I wish I could have dropped an extension cord to them but then I probably wouldn't have enough for myself. What can I do, when I put in my system in, I told them they should do the same thing and they just ignored me, they lost several thousand dollars worth of food.
*I really don't understand what you're talking about @**26:47** in regards to the dual Voltage hub ? Why would you want to re-split out again the split phase 240 Volt AC 30 Amp round four pin plug for ? You need that plug to run your entire house by connecting that output to your home's main power panel via it's tie-in receptacle ? Aren't those other two 3 pin AC plugs on the dual voltage hub a pair of 120 Volt 20 Amp outlets ? Please clarify what you mean ?*
@@ProjectsWithDave Now THAT is interesting to note. You learn something new every day 👍😃 I thought the ONLY 240 Volts AC output on that dual voltage hub was the round four pin plug, because this is the ONLY ONE everybody talks about ?💁👀🤔Very interesting indeed.🤔
Great video Dave. Is there a way you can do a video review on Anker 767 + 760 expansion battery? Are they capable of doin 220 volts too? Thanks in advance.
What am I missing?? That 240 split hub thing looks like it already has 2x 120v 20amp receptacles besides the round T14-30R… 🤔 or are they each 240v as well?
Yes, It's great! Fluke sent me a solar irradiance meter some time ago which I have put to great use in analyzing solar panel performance. I found a software flaw in that tool during my testing. They made a correction for their products in the market in 3 days! They have been great to work with and are focused on high quality products. This new clamp meter they sent me to test and use in my videos has been great so far. It's one of the fun things about sharing my experiments on RUclips, I also am getting the opportunity to try some products and tools I would not otherwise been able to afford.
You can connect just one unit, you just won't get split phase. You can only charge from solar while in use when running two units together. With only one unit you can charge from solar or grid while in use.
What kind of adapter/cable do you have two connect the dual voltage hub to your outdoor inlet? I recently installed an interlock kit for my portable gas generator (50 amp). If I have two Delta Pros and the Dual Voltage hub that's 30amp, what do I need to buy in order to safely use my 50 amp inlet?
You have not given me enough information. If I assume your home inlet is 50A for your generator, it is probably a SS2-50P. You would need to build a cord that can plug into your 30A (L14-30P) double voltage hub at one end and the 50A (SS2-50R) for the inlet on the other. If you already have this cord for your generator: amzn.to/4hSzqoM You can get this adaptor to connect to your double voltage hub: amzn.to/3Z88kT9 If your receptacle on your home is actually only a L14-30P you just need a 30A cord like this one: amzn.to/3Z88kT9
Late to the party but I noticed on your dc test that there was pretty severe voltage drop at 10amps. Mine runs the same and it is pretty disappointing. Have you tried running a DC capacity test off the Anderson? On mine I can run about 120 watts without the fans ever kicking on and the unit not getting hot.
The DC capacity on this unit is fairly limited. If you need more DC, there are some new systems that get close to 30A or about 300W like the one in this video: ruclips.net/video/ZlIbkhPPfGI/видео.html
It depends on what the load is and what the solar input is. You can see several long term load tests you can use to judge your situation from some of my other videos on the topic here: projectswithdave.com/portable-power-station/
Interesting unit. Can it work like a UPS system, or does it have to be turned on manually when needed. I heat with a wood furnace, and if there is a power failure while we are sleeping, the fan shuts off (obviously ), but the fire still burns. The unit would have to kick in and run the fan, hopefully until we woke up or until the fire went out. The fan pulls about 7 amps at 120 volts. Cheers, TT
It has a UPS function. I tested it and it works great. Are you sure the fan pulls 840 Watts? That is a lot of power for a fan. If that's the case the battery would only last about 3.5 hours. However, I suspect your fan doesn't pull that much power. Check it with a watt meter, this one is inexpensive and works well: amzn.to/3XwchOF
Does any of the light for the back side have to come from the off-axis, or is the panel transmissive so the light passing through the front can then be reflected back up to the backside. In other words, does a highly reflective surface under the panel help in any way with a five-inch standoff from the roof?
If you are referring to bifacial panels, there is some light that comes through the panel, but it is almost negligible. The useful light is reflected from behind the panel somehow, and 5" is not very much space to achieve that.
I have considered that, but I don't think it would get enough views to warrant the time it takes to make the video. None the less, I still may do it some day, there are a lot of pros and cons to the system. I've made a few videos on my home construction but the don't get many views.
@@ProjectsWithDave - Something must be REALLY wrong with your heat pump compressor. There's no way you should have that kind of draw-- even starting up. I'm in the San Joaquin valley in CA (east of San Francisco). I just installed a four-ton 20.5 SEER Bryant Evolution air-source heat pump, with communicating, variable speed compressor. I tested it last summer in AC mode. I have my 7,500 watt generator set up as my whole-house backup, running on propane (so, somewhat less than 7,500 watt output). With everything in the house turned off at their switches (not at the breaker panel), the latent load is about 2.5 amps, or 600 watts (guessing wall warts, routers, smart plugs, refrigerators, etc). Turning the heat pump on I saw a startup pull of 15 amps- but only for about two seconds. Then it dropped to about 6 amps, then slowly ramped back up to 16 amps when I turned the thermostat way down (full-on cooling). Running everything I could think of in the house, the well pumping at what must be full speed (1-1/2" pipe full open, filling my pool) air compressor running, electric oven... I could only get a steady pull of about 33 amps.
@@mikepowell3335 That's great information about your setup, but it's not not directly applicable to homes with different configurations. Primarily, you mention a variable speed air source heat pump. First, it's going to be programmed to start up at it's lowest power and ramp up from there over minutes, not seconds. So while it's not technically a soft start it's going to be a lot more soft than a single or dual speed compressor, which is very likely that Dave and others have as variable speed compressors are still new and cost more. Second, air is significantly less dense than water or whatever presumably liquid substance that's used for carrying the heat in a ground source heat pump, so even though the air source heat pump is probably moving more CFM of air than the ground source heat pump is of liquid, I'd expect the ground source heat pump to have a larger inertia to overcome while starting up, therefore have a generally higher start up load than an air source heat pump, especially a variable speed one.
@@extragoode - Point taken. My point was something must SERIOUSLY be wrong for his heat pump to be drawing that many amps. My guess is there's a 50(ish)-amp breaker that should have tripped before even being able to READ that much current.
You can do just one unit for 120V appliances. EcoFlow has their own expansion batteries. Here is a link: us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-pro-smart-extra-battery?aff=632
Dave, I am not an electrical guy so watching your videos are fascinating. I am in the planning stage of building a 10x12 shed and want a system to put in for a couple of LED shop lights and capability to work a couple of power tools. What is your suggestion?
I would consider an all in one system with at least a 200W inverter for small power tools. For larger tools you would need 3000W. You only need one unit for that application since you won't need 240V supply. You can also check out this topic on my website: projectswithdave.com/portable-power-station/
Why did you keep referring to the EchFlow batteies as "inverters"? That may have confused some people. Especially as you do actually have an inverter hanging on the wall. You also showed that you plugged the generator cord to the outside connection on the house and then came inside and showed @ 3:26 that you plugged the generator extension cord into the EchoFlow, but no where did you show either of those hooked to your home AC system. To a person not understanding, it would appear that you just run a cable from your generator to your EchoFlow and magically the electricity gets to your home AC plugs.
The Ecoflow system contains batteries and AC inverters in one unit. It's not "magic," I point out in the beginning of the video that my house has a transfer switch for a generator connection. With that setup, I can simply plug in the EcoFlow double hub into the generator input plug and flip the transfer switch. That moves all the emergency circuits over to the EcoFlow system just like it would for a standard generator.
And to think I almost cut that out... then I thought, having my dog poop right over my head when I'm trying to film something is reality people can relate to 😂
If I have a delta pro with the extra battery giving me 7,200 watts and I'm using (4) 400 watt solar panels on a sunny day could I use a 1500 watt cooktop continuously without loosing battery charge or am I looking at this wrong? Thanks
In full sun during the peak output for the day you will probably only get around 1300W input. Panels only produce about 80% of their rated output under real world conditions. So in that case you would be loosing power, but slowly.
@@ProjectsWithDave L1 to neutral ground on the double voltage hub. This hub is defective and dangerous. Good thing that the delta pros detected the fault. Notice no stock on the hubs? I bet they had a defective batch.
64% round-trip efficiency for a battery backup seems awfully low when stationary home batteries get about 90%. What's accounting for the additional loss?
In the video there is a graphic calling out L14-30P (plug) and L5-50R (receptacle) when showing the outdoor generator hookup. I wanted to point out that when talking twist locking NEMA power connectors and receptacles L5 series is 120V only! Yes there are some off brand products on Amazon that are misidentified as L5-50R, but are in reality a CS6369 aka L14-50R which is exactly what you need to connect to a 50A generator inlet hookup ^_^; L5 --> 120V {L1, N, G) L6 --> 240V (L1, L2, G) L14 --> 120V/240V (L1, L2, N, G) For the 50A twist locking receptacles you are more likely to find components using the CS (California Standard) nomenclature: CS6370 --> L5-50R CS8269 --> L6-50R CS6369 --> L14-50R I did not try, but it may be mechanically possible to use L14-50 as L6-50 or L5-50 depending on how you wire it. The other way around would definitely not work, i.e. a L5-50R would not mechanically connect to a 50A generator inlet. Reference: hubbellcdn.com/ohwassets/HCI/WiringDevice/media/NEMA_Chart.pdf
Thanks for paying attention to the details. Your chart is a great reference, I included it in the details section of the video for everyone to reference. Right or wrong, the plug I show in the video (ABN L5-50R Connector - 50 Amp Twist Lock Inlet) is the one used on my house for my generator hookup. The other plug I show L14-30R is likely the more common connection and the one that is directly compatible with the EcoFlow connections.
I was able to run my 4ton AC after some adjustments to the soft start system, but it could barely start it. Those units aren't really designed for that kind of load.
A single unit will automatically function in UPS mode if it is plugged in. X-boost allows the inverter to put out more than it's rated capacity with some degradation in signal performance.
Hey! Love your content, thanks so much for sharing. Quick Question, as I'm not a big tech nerd, but concerned. A couple hours ago, I ordered the Delta2Max, Extra Battery & 400W Solar Panel for $4k. Wouldn't it be a better buy to get the DeltaPro & 2x400W Solar Panel for $4,350? Did I just make a mistake and not see the potential for an extra $350? Please advise asap if possible. Thanks so much!
It depends on what you need it for. The Delta Pro has much more AC capacity at 3,600W, but the big advantage is that the solar input is capable of 150V on the Delta Pro and only 60V on the Delta 2 Max. If you are solar charging, the higher voltage is a big deal, it gives you a lot more options in terms of solar panel configurations. However, portability would be better with the smaller unit.
@@ProjectsWithDave ty sir. As I’m looking to expand in the future as use it as a whole-home back up system, I will cancel my order and get the pro. Ty sir for your prompt reply. Appreciate you greatly.
hi Dave, you have the same generator inlet (50amp) to Delta Pro (30amp) situation that I have. Where did you get your 50amp inlet male to 30amp male (to EcoFlow) cable with such thin cabling? I had to build my own with a oven/range 30amp plug to a Reliance 30amp plug, but these have huge thick unyielding cabling.
I built it with 6-6-6-6 SER. Something like this: www.wireandcableyourway.com/6-6-6-6-copper-ser-service-entrance-cable It's not very flexible, but works for emergency situations.
In the Philippines, our voltage is 220 already. Does that mean i would only need one unit that they sell here as a 220v unit? And can i hook up to my home panel the same yours?
Well, it works as you described until it doesn't. I have seen a couple of videos that want to use the hub but have to update the firmware first. You must have been sent DP with updated firmware. Second, some that I know of have received at rear 554 error. I have yet been able to find clear details as to what the 554 error code is or how to fix it. When I try to update the firmware, the ap indicates that it needs access to my phone's memory and dumps me into my "settings ap" but I have no idea what I need to do there. Frustrating. Ecoflow is only open for service M-F 8-5. Same as 80% of the population. So I need to take time off work to sit with them on the phone. I have sent them serial numbers for both DPs and the hub. Time will tell if I get help.
The plug on the outside of the house did not appear to have a ground. Or only three tabs. But you are supposedly feeding it with two poles and a neutral. Why is this?
View more details on my new website here: projectswithdave.com/portable-power-station/
I'm a bit surprised your geothermal heat pump has such an in rush. Over here (EU) I'm used to inverter driven heat pumps being more common than single phase direct driven ones
Can you charge that system while it is using the hub to power your home grid?
Wow! Your video is the best Ecoflow demonstration on the net.
Wow, thanks!
We have used the ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Thanks for the capacity and efficiency data you collected. Your numbers match up pretty will with I'm seeing out of mine. One DeltaPro runs my refrigerator 24x7 off six 100W panels.
Thanks for adding your real world experience.
great walk thru of how this system works, the lack of the 120v outlet on the hub was why i went with the bluetti ac300 system. I have set mine up with 240 split phase and have been using it to run several circuits in my house for about 4 months now. the short winter days have been an eye opener on how much different the solar part delivers. my biggest gripe is the way the cables are connected to the batteries and inverters. Hope Bluetti sends you a system to showcase like you did here. I would like to see a head to head comparison from you.
Thanks for the feedback. People don't realize how dramatic the difference in solar production is between summer and winter. The number of panels needed is defined more by low light winter production, that's why the bifacial panels are such a great advancement. I do have a connection with Bluetti, I reviewed the EB70S some time ago ( watch here: ruclips.net/video/LAjirHJ-t6s/видео.html ), but it would be a while before I can do the AC300, I already have content planned for the next several months. Thanks!
@@ProjectsWithDave Do bifacial panels have the potential to overheat more in hotter climates since they have two active sides?
It would stand to reason the panels would absorb more heat with the increase in exposed material. However, I have not taken any data to verify that.
Dave, I'm so glad I found your channel! I'm about to embark on a DIY grid-tie roof solar system and your videos/website have been invaluable. I'd love to collaborate if you ever do that sort of thing. Keep up the great work!
Thanks! I love to collaborate, but I don't always have the time to make it happen.
Stellar review of a very capable system. Very much appreciate your detailed attention for various configurations supported by meaningful data. Additionally, employing this as a plug and play off grid/mobile solution with 240v support is a game changer for those seeking installation/maintenance simplicity. Lastly, I'll need to review the inverters low frequency capacity/limitations (as you spotlighted with your 3Ton heatpump), Ecoflow's implementation of precharge resistors in the circuit, as well as future iterations of the product family containing heat mats/blankets to enable low temp charging when a power source is readily available. Again, great review and supporting data. Thank you for this.
Agreed
That inrush is crazy. You'd need 2 Sol-Ark 15k to start that. The inrush on my 4 ton (non-geothermal) heat pump is around 112A for reference.
I plan to look into that a bit more. It shouldn't be that high.
@@ProjectsWithDave How does that not blow your breaker? Even on a 100A breaker I wouldn't think that load would be tolerated for more than fraction of a second and I'd be surprised if a 4 ton unit was spec'd for more than 50 or 60 amp breaker.
@@extragoode breakers need the heat to trip it, a few seconds of that isn't enough. A minute would be though!
@@whattheschmidt arc fault on the other hand can be tripped
Use a soft start
I watched the whole video so you deserve a comment thank you
Think there needs to be many more people who are doing this type of instruction for this type of thing.
Thanks for showing the workings of a breaker box. I never cared more than turning a breaker off and on. I never new that there were switches that can be moved around to balance a load. Do you think? A person would need some electrical experience to use a eco flow delta pro. Or!!! It is a plug and play experience. Taking in all the components ( such as the solar panels with tracking and smart generator and 50 amp hub and any other product that will work well with these units). ( you answered part of my question at the end of video) ( I was typing while watching the video) Eco flow should allow you to show what a max system would look like with all the accessories. That would be a great video. I know that there is a limit to how much solar one delta pro can be optimally connected too without a overload. They need too fix that balancing of batteries. You should also show the solution to get the batteries to work simultaneously or equal draw in the video. Great video!!!
Again, nice job Dave. I think there's a whole lot of us "out in the country" who appreciate ground mounted panels and robust battery storage. Especially when you're on a well. That seems to make you a kind of "problem child" when installers encounter it.
That said, just a sidebar: we also have a geothermal system with a ClimateMaster heatpump. I discussed this very issue with my installer; running it off a generator or battery. Pretty much academic for me as I wouldn't expect that capability on my budget but with a pellet stove, I'd still like to be able to switch on the fan coil air circulator. He acknowledged the startup surge as the challenge but told me if I wanted they could retrofit a "Soft Start" module just to handle that. Haven't gone past that to dig deeper though.
I have a soft start module on mine. I wonder if it isn't working properly because that startup current was way too high. I'm going to look into it more. I'm a mechanical engineer by trade not an electrician, so I have to learn everything independently as I go. My air handler is a separate unit and I can run that no problem. For a completely off-grid setup I think the new solar powered min split systems would be ideal. I'm considering installing one and trying it out. ( AC/DC solar powered min split: signaturesolar.com/eg4-hybrid-ac-dc-solar-air-conditioner-2-ton/?ref=SALE )
@@ProjectsWithDave Looking forward to a review if you have an opportunity to install the AC/DC solar powered min split. This would be great.
@@ProjectsWithDave those solar ASHPs look pretty simple to connect. My biggest question would be I don't see any mention of them feeding back into the house grid if the climate is temperate and no conditioning is needed, would any solar power generated by those panels be wasted in that case?
Adding the double voltage hub does not prevent the 120v outlets on the front to be disabled, they just need to be turned on. At least that's how mine is working! There's also a setting that controls the length of time it's on. The hub is connected, but the main breaker is not on. I'm running pumps, washing machine, fans, and more from the ac outputs on the front of the unit. I only plan on using 240v when the power company goes down. The rest of the time I can run several things in my garage off line, reducing my electric bill.
16:07 - the 20% unused or left over or "efficiency" that you mentioned is most probably not the inverters efficiency but the battery DOD or battery shutdown threshold setting in the inverter. Check the battery protection setting of the inverter, it may give some enlightenment.
Great video, Dave! These are neat units, but the price point is too high for me, so I would go another route.
Thanks! I'm just providing data so you can make the best decision for you.
Nice video! We just ordered ordered a Delta Pro and battery, looking forward to runnning part of the house and have peace of mind if we are away that the sump pump will run.
18:49 for balanced output/input you need the smart home panel…that hub is just to get that 240v
You're in an extreme cold temperature area, I wish someone would do a similar review in a high temperature area where we need a large central AC unit running for most of the day. We need AC about 8 months out of the year. Very nice and detailed review though.
This is what i am looking for my black out backup, thanks
Really impressive... Thanks for this awesome video.
Another solar/DC input option, is the Anderson powerpole adapter cable. I built an XT60 to APP pigtail so I had an easy to use breakway from my solar cable that's semi-permanently installed. This cable is 12/3 type TC-ER Tray Cable. The cable has the Anderson Plug on one end, and goes to MC4 to pickup the panels on the rooftop. It also functions as a portsaver, taking wear off the XT60 inlet on the unit itself.
Oh, and place a blocking diode inline of the solar array to prevent drain, and a DC rated disconnect switch for safety and lockout/tagout compliance.
I love the XT60 connectors, I use them on projects all the time.
Thank you. After heat pump test I was bummed out !bigtime. BUT! I'm checking out my 5 ton Water Furnace and it has a variable speed compressor soft start. Better borrow my son Fluke with the loop before I purchase anything.
I'm working with a company on a soft start solution. I was able to run my 4ton heat pump with the latest device.
Same setup as you be here in a week. Thanks for vid ,reply and sharing Sir!
@@ProjectsWithDave My 3.5 ton (16seer) pulled 84 amps, now only 25 with soft start. I've got to think that 200 amp drag and noise is sign of an imminent failure! Great work!
!!Important!! Need to remember that when using an interlock or transfer switch, it's important to know if you are also switching the neutrals. This will determine if you have a separately derived system or not. If your first means of disconnect is your main breaker panel and you are not switching a neutral, the grounding, conductor that is connecting to your battery backup could also be carrying current equal to the neutral.
This is why it's important if you don't know what you're doing have an electrician install this for you. Don't make a mistake that could kill someone. Most people assume that grounding conductors are always safe, but they can become hot in certain conditions.
Fantastic video. Thank you so much for diving deeper into this use-case than I've seen before. One question: You seem to say that your well pump continues to pull several hundred watts even after the "surge" of turning on. Does your well pump require that at all times? I was under the impression that it shut off completely when not filling the water tank. Thanks!
Good question, I should have made that more clear in the video, but I can only cover so much without making the video too long. I have an on demand well pump. The initial surge was to bring the system up to pressure, it then runs at a lower power to maintain pressure as long as water is running. The accumulation tank is only 5" in diameter.
very good testing, I'm assuming the new UPS can be charged from your Solar panels, I missed that, I'm sure they came already charged, but how do you have them connected to your Solar system?, they should make them Server Rack compatible and just incorporate them in one small cabinet, with internal wiring, they can still ship separately and remain cosmetically presentable after installation
Yes, I show some solar charging in this video. Check out time stamp 17:03
do you have an email tha you share with your followers?
OOOOPS ! Best not to be in a rush... Good lesson for all of us !
Honest and informative report. Reconciled to another RUclipsr report. Good bless your house.
4300 watts! Holy cow! Good to know that these things will TOTALLY exceed their specs of a total of 3600 watts.. Dang! I have three of these Delta Pro's, with has two external batteries and I'm not done with my solar system. I just REALLY wish that they could have a LOT more than 1600 watts of solar charging. I believe it's the volts that should be higher, this alone should raise the solar incoming watts. GREAT video!!!
Yes, the low max voltage is the big limiting factor on improving the solar input. I think we will see that improve in the future. The competition in the market is pushing it up.
4300 watts is 100 hours of running a 43 watt light bulb and nothing else. Wow everyone needs one of these. Just like we all need EV automobiles despite the lack of convenient charging stations and the grid needed to support such a massive increase in power demand. The lemmings are runnung us all toward the cliff. Enjoy the view as we all go over.
@@WilliamMurphy-uv9pm It'd make a great UPS for a protective device to prevent damage from switching over to a "Generator" !! that's about it!!
Don't you run into a problem of needing thicker feeder wire/cable when volts go up? Thought I saw that somewhere.
@@michaelc.fulghum8125 Or maybe something to ease the initial surge. Interesting thought. Thanks.
I have this set up with 3200 watts of solar. One extra battery is on the leg with the refrigerator on it. It powers the desert house pretty well except in summer when air conditioning with mini splits needing to run at night. Has your system just randomly shut down for no reason? This happens from time to time and it’s the one gripe I have about the Delta Pro 240 volt split phase system.😮 Everything in the fridge could be ruined if this happens when I’m away.
Thanks for posting your actual situation. I have not had the shutdown issue. Have you tried updating the firmware?
20:11 the dog doing its business in the background is priceless! LOL
😂 I almost cut that out, but then I thought... why not keep it real... Besides, I didn't think anyone would actually notice.
The Delta Pro is probably the most versatile power station I could get my hands on because I can charge it thru solar panels, AC outlet, Smart Generator and most unique of all is charging it at an EV station.
I just received the EV charging adaptor in the mail. Unfortunately, I didn't get it in time for this video, but I do plan to try it out. It's a very unique feature.
The initial mismatch in voltages that you saw can be caused by a faulty neutral, so check your infrastructure for clues. Classic symptom is the two legs of your panel being +/- 1-3 V AC.
The mismatch is an intentional feature of the system to help balance the battery capacity between the units.
can you program EcoFlow only to take from the grid when it's depleted so that it will run more off the solar
Impressive. Excellent video. Thanks.
Kudos to you for such an informative video. I can only assume you're an electrician by trade. I've been beta testing their equipment since the company started and almost everything you said in this video was spot on. Very impressive. Too bad they didn't send you a DPU to play with.
Thanks, but I'm actually a mechanical engineer by trade. Most things electrical are on the job training. I did wire my entire house including the meter panel and breaker panels, so lots of jobs to learn on.
I have used a few different current meters and they all gave different results. I only found one that I trusted for accuracy. And it wasn't a Fluke! This was at work. I had to measure current for testing a new machine before shipping. The best was an Extech. $300 US.
Maybe you shouldn't point the heat gun at the black power cord.
Thanks for the info. What did you use as a reference to determine which one was the most accurate?
@@ProjectsWithDave I tried both meters and the Extech was correct. Both were in calibration. But, thinking about it the Fluke had a much higher capability(range). So don't trust your Fluke for milliamps measuring.
Another great video! Cool to see it in practical action. Hopefully the price will fall down on these in the coming years.
Thanks! The price and capability continues to improve on these power stations. It's a fun space to be working in, it seems like there is something new on the market every day.
Hey Dave at 20:07 I don’t know if any heat is coming out of the heat gun but your dog is definitely dropping a deuce in your video above your head at the top of the screen. 😂
Yea, great timing 😞. I noticed that in my editing. I almost cut it out, but then I thought... no this is actual reality TV 😂
I'm so glad the algorithm suggested your video. New subscriber here!
I have always lived in areas with primarily gas heating, so I've only seen 100-200 amp services. I was shocked that just your heat pump used that much! What kind of service do you have?
Thanks for subscribing! I have a 300A service.
Wow fantastic explanation. This was super easy to understand and follow.
With every breaker off i plugged in my 4 units and with no load but the wire to the breaker box it goes into overload they say it needs a update so eventually it has to be connected to the internet. So these things won't allow you to be off grid. Anything that makes you be connected can be turned off
Great job putting together this video and showing all the plug and play ooptions. But I still have a question: I am planning to get only one Delta Pro unit....is there a way to connect said single unit to the wall plug? or I still need the hub (shown to connect 2 units) and then connect from there to the wall plug?
Each unit comes with a plug for connecting to a standard 120V outlet. This plug is used to charge the unit from home AC power or to use the unit in UPS mode. You can set the charge speed to fast or slow with a switch on the back side of the unit.
@@ProjectsWithDave Hi Dave. I was not referring about how to charge a single unit but about how to use only one unit to power some circuits of the house. Around min 3:15 you plug both to the power hub. But, do I still need a power hub if I have only one unit? Thanks so much.
No. You only need to hub for setting up split phase. Of course you will only be able to power 120V devices with one unit.
In this video I show powering only 120V devices with a single Bluetti: ruclips.net/video/_QMe8DWlr30/видео.html
@Projects With Everyday Dave was curious if you were to connect both Delta Pros with their extra battery cable on the back of each unit. Would that allow you to charge the other Delta Pro when you are connected to solar charging and help balance out the units? Haven't seen anybody try that. Thanks for the review.
Extra batteries gives you more capacity to work with, but it doesn't allow for balancing. It would give you more time and methods to correct imbalances, for instance you could add more solar to the inverter that is getting more demand, or put the extra battery on the leg with more demand.
Nice video demonstration. Did you measure the idle load of each of the DeltaPro's?
Not directly, but you can see the calculated result on the fridge test was 18W. (fridge test 15:37 )
The book value is 30W for both AC and DC combined.
Best video I've seen on the ecoflow. Your an intelligent guy!
Question is...could you connect many batteries and solar panels so it's truly off grid?
Yes, you can add solar panels and additional battery capacity. EcoFlow has their own expansion batteries. Here is a link: us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-pro-smart-extra-battery?aff=632
@@ProjectsWithDave it's just a shame that it looks like you can only add upto X2 batteries with every inverter? Is this correct?
Yes, they are limited to two additional batteries per unit.
Love the dog using nature in the backyard. 😂
Yea, these videos are just me and my kids... you get the real deal here. 😂
Thanks for this video. I also have two DPs and I am wondering if the rear ac input port shuts off when the double voltage hub is being used. I would like to charge the DPs with my inverter generator via ac. Thanks
I have run the Double Voltage Hub with DC input with no issues. However, I tested your scenario and it does not work. I connected the AC input, the unit started charging. I turned on the hub and it immediately stopped charging. I turned off the hub and it started charging again. Hope that helps.
@@ProjectsWithDave Thanks for testing this which for brings up another idea. If one has the DP extension battery, does that AC input also get turned off when using the dual voltage hub? In other words. I know the DP turns off the AC input with connected to the DV hub but does it also turn off the ac input on the connected extension batter
Unfortunately, I don't have any expansion batteries to evaluate.
I canceled my order for a second delta pro with hub today after finding out using the 250v hub outlet disables simultaneous charging of the units. That is insane! Deal breaker.
Is there any way to make the Extra Battery connection cable a bit longer? If you stack your kit on shelves it's too short.
I don't think they have a longer version. I guess you could cut the cable in half and extend it, but that would not be a simple solution.
Thanks for the great analysis. Whats your best answer for that problem of using to backup whole house, but having an uneven rate of drain on one of the Delta Pro's? In that case you could end up with one battery emptying out after just a few hours and the remaining battery has 85% left. That means my 240 function is bye bye. Besides re-doing whole panel to try to "balance loads", any other fixes you may suggest? Either way, thanx!
Very good comprehensive review.
Awesome presentation 👏. Thank you, sir.
The question I can’t seem to get answered regarding these delta pro’s is
Will it Work in ups mode while using the 240volt hub? And can it charge while being used in 240 mode?
The units will charge using solar power even when connected to the 240V hub. I illustrate that in the video. However, they will not work in UPS mode or charge from the AC power input port when the 240V hub is turned on. Hope that helps.
can you tell me which splitter you used for the double voltage hub to 120? i want to purchase the correct one thanks kenny
This is the splitter on the Ecoflow site: us.ecoflow.com/products/double-voltage-hub-ecoflow-delta-pro?aff=632
On the Ecoflow site you could try the code "EFDAVE5" for 5% off, but I haven't checked lately to see if it still works.
Or you can get it on Amazon here: amzn.to/3Ovywkj
@@ProjectsWithDave thank you and i love your utube videos
Love the review. I have solar on the roof of my house but it supplies back to grid only. How can I hook up 2 eco flow delta pro to my house? Do I need separate solar panels to charge the deltas? All help greatly appreciated.
You can use the EcoFlow without solar as a UPS or backup power source. You can charge it during the day through a standard wall outlet when your panels are producing power, then use it to supply power to separate devices. If you want to make it an independent system, you would need additional panels dedicated for the unit.
@@ProjectsWithDave do the eco flow panels charge up the delta pros while they are being used? Do they charge enough to keep them charged up for continued use
The Delta Pro's can take a significant solar input. I have been using a 1200W /90V array to keep mine charged for months off grid with my dehumidifier running as a constant load. Depending on the weather and how much the dehumidifier runs, sometimes the battery runs out of power. If I had the expansion battery, I think that I would rarely run out of power since I often am charged to 100% on sunny days.
Great review. Do you plan to test their Smart Panel device? That prevents manual switching. But it has limitations. What about your existing solar panel array? Are you planning to tie into the Delta Pros? Lastly, comparing your current solar system (with all its components) to the DP setup, would you consider them equals in performance and price? One better than the other? Great content Dave. Thank you.
I don't have a current plan to test the Smart Panel, but I wouldn't rule it out for a future activity. For smaller portable units like the Delta pro, I use a small array of 6 used panels. The portable units can't handle the higher voltages coming from my main array and it makes more sense to use cheap clearance or used panels for small emergency backup systems. Every system has its pros and cons, it just depends on your specific criteria.
Great info, I wonder if you could get a splitter for the solar panel cord and simultaneously change both ecoflow pro's at the same time or would that blow something.
It would be better to divide the panels into two separate strings so the MPPT's can work independently to maximize the output from the panels.
@@ProjectsWithDave OK thanks.
Very nice testing! Thank you for doing this! Ya I was bummed to see my unit NOT come with a solar connector being a "solar generator" lol I've noticed on the double voltage hub each leg of the outlet comes from each unit. Makes sense. To bad they don't balance for charging or usage.
There is some balancing that is achieved by modulating the voltage, but it seems like it could be 100% balanced with a cable and some software.
@ProjectsWithDave absolutely! I agree with the extra battery port that could balance the batteries. Of course this would take away from the total capability of capacity. I've got one delta pro sonfar and maybe next year I'll snag another with the home panel. I decided on the ecoflow other than solarnand battery on the house for in case we move or need the battery somewhere else. Thanks for the reply!
I had the same problem trying to start my heat pump...overload! I was wondering if we should try it on xboost? That can work!
I worked with Active Start to mature the settings for their soft starter and we were able to get it to work, but it's still marginal.
I would say the Delta Pro passed the test if you have to start searching for more things in the garage to plug in to get it to pop
no mention of battery chemistry. is it LIthium ion? What would you recommend as a similar non portable battery backup addition to my solar system design?
The batteries are LiFePO4. If you don't want portable but still want flexible I would install a system like this one: ruclips.net/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/видео.html
am i missing the amazon link for the 240 to dual 120 adaptor cord you show at the end?
You can find it on my website here: projectswithdave.com/portable-power-station/
I THINK WHAT WE NEED IS TO WELD IN THE FIELD LETS SAY WITH A small 110 arc welder, but keep the power supply connected to a 110 power plug meanwhile I am welding. that way we are using and replacing the currient, is that posible , any conflict with That! THAT WAY ITS GOING TO BE A NON STOP WELDING is there anyting like this outhere
Excellent tutorial, you covered everything in detail, although I have a backup power system in my house, I enjoyed watching your video just in case I might have done something wrong on my setup. When I first started testing my unit my wife saw me out there by the generator plug, with two of her hair dryers and two of our heaters, this is a pretty excellent way of checking your capacity. Anyway my system paid off, the December 2022, storm left us without power for almost 20 hours. Of course we were the only one on our street with backup power running refrigerator and freezers that were working all the time. A few days later we had to here sad stories from our neighbors that lost all their food, I wish I could have dropped an extension cord to them but then I probably wouldn't have enough for myself. What can I do, when I put in my system in, I told them they should do the same thing and they just ignored me, they lost several thousand dollars worth of food.
Thanks for adding your real world experience!
*I really don't understand what you're talking about @**26:47** in regards to the dual Voltage hub ? Why would you want to re-split out again the split phase 240 Volt AC 30 Amp round four pin plug for ? You need that plug to run your entire house by connecting that output to your home's main power panel via it's tie-in receptacle ? Aren't those other two 3 pin AC plugs on the dual voltage hub a pair of 120 Volt 20 Amp outlets ? Please clarify what you mean ?*
The other outlets on the hub are 240V.
@@ProjectsWithDave Now THAT is interesting to note. You learn something new every day 👍😃 I thought the ONLY 240 Volts AC output on that dual voltage hub was the round four pin plug, because this is the ONLY ONE everybody talks about ?💁👀🤔Very interesting indeed.🤔
I don't know why they don't have 120V outlets on the hub. That's a big missed opportunity in my opinion.
Great video Dave. Is there a way you can do a video review on Anker 767 + 760 expansion battery? Are they capable of doin 220 volts too? Thanks in advance.
Sorry, they have asked me to review it, but I just haven't been able to fit it in my schedule at this time.
What am I missing?? That 240 split hub thing looks like it already has 2x 120v 20amp receptacles besides the round T14-30R… 🤔 or are they each 240v as well?
Yes they are 240V.
Holy smokes that Fluke clamp meter is $550 "deal" price! It is nice to have such expensive toys.
Yes, It's great! Fluke sent me a solar irradiance meter some time ago which I have put to great use in analyzing solar panel performance. I found a software flaw in that tool during my testing. They made a correction for their products in the market in 3 days! They have been great to work with and are focused on high quality products. This new clamp meter they sent me to test and use in my videos has been great so far. It's one of the fun things about sharing my experiments on RUclips, I also am getting the opportunity to try some products and tools I would not otherwise been able to afford.
@@ProjectsWithDave Well good for you, man.
For me the Delta Pro is absolutely a no brainer choice. Fast charging and I could increase the capacity to 25kWh.
Os there anyway to connect one ecoflow to a house? Can the ecoflow be charged at the same time when in use?
You can connect just one unit, you just won't get split phase. You can only charge from solar while in use when running two units together. With only one unit you can charge from solar or grid while in use.
What kind of adapter/cable do you have two connect the dual voltage hub to your outdoor inlet? I recently installed an interlock kit for my portable gas generator (50 amp). If I have two Delta Pros and the Dual Voltage hub that's 30amp, what do I need to buy in order to safely use my 50 amp inlet?
You have not given me enough information. If I assume your home inlet is 50A for your generator, it is probably a SS2-50P.
You would need to build a cord that can plug into your 30A (L14-30P) double voltage hub at one end and the 50A (SS2-50R) for the inlet on the other.
If you already have this cord for your generator: amzn.to/4hSzqoM
You can get this adaptor to connect to your double voltage hub: amzn.to/3Z88kT9
If your receptacle on your home is actually only a L14-30P you just need a 30A cord like this one: amzn.to/3Z88kT9
Late to the party but I noticed on your dc test that there was pretty severe voltage drop at 10amps. Mine runs the same and it is pretty disappointing. Have you tried running a DC capacity test off the Anderson? On mine I can run about 120 watts without the fans ever kicking on and the unit not getting hot.
The DC capacity on this unit is fairly limited. If you need more DC, there are some new systems that get close to 30A or about 300W like the one in this video: ruclips.net/video/ZlIbkhPPfGI/видео.html
But the important question: How long would you expect this system to last in a power outage? How many days or weeks?
It depends on what the load is and what the solar input is. You can see several long term load tests you can use to judge your situation from some of my other videos on the topic here: projectswithdave.com/portable-power-station/
Interesting unit. Can it work like a UPS system, or does it have to be turned on manually when needed. I heat with a wood furnace, and if there is a power failure while we are sleeping, the fan shuts off (obviously ), but the fire still burns. The unit would have to kick in and run the fan, hopefully until we woke up or until the fire went out. The fan pulls about 7 amps at 120 volts. Cheers, TT
It has a UPS function. I tested it and it works great. Are you sure the fan pulls 840 Watts? That is a lot of power for a fan. If that's the case the battery would only last about 3.5 hours. However, I suspect your fan doesn't pull that much power. Check it with a watt meter, this one is inexpensive and works well: amzn.to/3XwchOF
Does any of the light for the back side have to come from the off-axis, or is the panel transmissive so the light passing through the front can then be reflected back up to the backside. In other words, does a highly reflective surface under the panel help in any way with a five-inch standoff from the roof?
If you are referring to bifacial panels, there is some light that comes through the panel, but it is almost negligible. The useful light is reflected from behind the panel somehow, and 5" is not very much space to achieve that.
Great video 👍
Thanks 👍
Dave, don't you need a permit to install a transfer switch? What about homes with out of spec load centers? Would that need further upgrades?
You would need a permit to install a transfer switch if you don’t have one. The no permit assumes you already have a set up for a generator.
Would you please do a overview of the geo thermal system.
I have considered that, but I don't think it would get enough views to warrant the time it takes to make the video. None the less, I still may do it some day, there are a lot of pros and cons to the system. I've made a few videos on my home construction but the don't get many views.
@@ProjectsWithDave - Something must be REALLY wrong with your heat pump compressor. There's no way you should have that kind of draw-- even starting up.
I'm in the San Joaquin valley in CA (east of San Francisco). I just installed a four-ton 20.5 SEER Bryant Evolution air-source heat pump, with communicating, variable speed compressor. I tested it last summer in AC mode. I have my 7,500 watt generator set up as my whole-house backup, running on propane (so, somewhat less than 7,500 watt output). With everything in the house turned off at their switches (not at the breaker panel), the latent load is about 2.5 amps, or 600 watts (guessing wall warts, routers, smart plugs, refrigerators, etc). Turning the heat pump on I saw a startup pull of 15 amps- but only for about two seconds. Then it dropped to about 6 amps, then slowly ramped back up to 16 amps when I turned the thermostat way down (full-on cooling). Running everything I could think of in the house, the well pumping at what must be full speed (1-1/2" pipe full open, filling my pool) air compressor running, electric oven... I could only get a steady pull of about 33 amps.
I'm not going to stand up and say those results make sense. I plan to investigate the situation a bit more when I have some time.
@@mikepowell3335 That's great information about your setup, but it's not not directly applicable to homes with different configurations. Primarily, you mention a variable speed air source heat pump. First, it's going to be programmed to start up at it's lowest power and ramp up from there over minutes, not seconds. So while it's not technically a soft start it's going to be a lot more soft than a single or dual speed compressor, which is very likely that Dave and others have as variable speed compressors are still new and cost more. Second, air is significantly less dense than water or whatever presumably liquid substance that's used for carrying the heat in a ground source heat pump, so even though the air source heat pump is probably moving more CFM of air than the ground source heat pump is of liquid, I'd expect the ground source heat pump to have a larger inertia to overcome while starting up, therefore have a generally higher start up load than an air source heat pump, especially a variable speed one.
@@extragoode - Point taken. My point was something must SERIOUSLY be wrong for his heat pump to be drawing that many amps. My guess is there's a 50(ish)-amp breaker that should have tripped before even being able to READ that much current.
What about if you don't need 240 voltage? How many 12 voltage batteries can you hook up with the system to get a bit longer run time ⏲️ ?
You can do just one unit for 120V appliances. EcoFlow has their own expansion batteries. Here is a link: us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-pro-smart-extra-battery?aff=632
Dave, I am not an electrical guy so watching your videos are fascinating. I am in the planning stage of building a 10x12 shed and want a system to put in for a couple of LED shop lights and capability to work a couple of power tools. What is your suggestion?
I would consider an all in one system with at least a 200W inverter for small power tools. For larger tools you would need 3000W. You only need one unit for that application since you won't need 240V supply. You can also check out this topic on my website: projectswithdave.com/portable-power-station/
Thanks Dave
how do you charge both of those using solar panels? Have to charge one at a time?
Simply connect one string to each unit.
One thing I do like about the Delta Pro is that I can increase the capacity of the system to around 25kWh.
Why did you keep referring to the EchFlow batteies as "inverters"? That may have confused some people. Especially as you do actually have an inverter hanging on the wall. You also showed that you plugged the generator cord to the outside connection on the house and then came inside and showed @ 3:26 that you plugged the generator extension cord into the EchoFlow, but no where did you show either of those hooked to your home AC system. To a person not understanding, it would appear that you just run a cable from your generator to your EchoFlow and magically the electricity gets to your home AC plugs.
The Ecoflow system contains batteries and AC inverters in one unit. It's not "magic," I point out in the beginning of the video that my house has a transfer switch for a generator connection. With that setup, I can simply plug in the EcoFlow double hub into the generator input plug and flip the transfer switch. That moves all the emergency circuits over to the EcoFlow system just like it would for a standard generator.
Very informative. The dog pooping in the background makes the video. 😁
And to think I almost cut that out... then I thought, having my dog poop right over my head when I'm trying to film something is reality people can relate to 😂
If I have a delta pro with the extra battery giving me 7,200 watts and I'm using (4) 400 watt solar panels on a sunny day could I use a 1500 watt cooktop continuously without loosing battery charge or am I looking at this wrong? Thanks
In full sun during the peak output for the day you will probably only get around 1300W input. Panels only produce about 80% of their rated output under real world conditions. So in that case you would be loosing power, but slowly.
Do you have to have a load on the 240 plug before turning on the 240V adapter? When I turn it on with no load I get an error code 533 on the units.
No, you do not have to have a load. I don't get that error when I turn it on without a load.
@@ProjectsWithDave I must have a defective hub. My grounds on the double voltage hub are hot! I must have a defective unit.
Ground should not be hot. How did you measure that? If that's the case, it sounds like something is wired incorrectly. I would send it back.
@@ProjectsWithDave L1 to neutral ground on the double voltage hub. This hub is defective and dangerous. Good thing that the delta pros detected the fault. Notice no stock on the hubs? I bet they had a defective batch.
Also, I took an actual amp reading and the fan is only pulling 3.8 amps, because I have it on low speed.
64% round-trip efficiency for a battery backup seems awfully low when stationary home batteries get about 90%. What's accounting for the additional loss?
Good question, it would take a lot more analysis to answer.
In the video there is a graphic calling out L14-30P (plug) and L5-50R (receptacle) when showing the outdoor generator hookup. I wanted to point out that when talking twist locking NEMA power connectors and receptacles L5 series is 120V only! Yes there are some off brand products on Amazon that are misidentified as L5-50R, but are in reality a CS6369 aka L14-50R which is exactly what you need to connect to a 50A generator inlet hookup ^_^;
L5 --> 120V {L1, N, G)
L6 --> 240V (L1, L2, G)
L14 --> 120V/240V (L1, L2, N, G)
For the 50A twist locking receptacles you are more likely to find components using the CS (California Standard) nomenclature:
CS6370 --> L5-50R
CS8269 --> L6-50R
CS6369 --> L14-50R
I did not try, but it may be mechanically possible to use L14-50 as L6-50 or L5-50 depending on how you wire it. The other way around would definitely not work, i.e. a L5-50R would not mechanically connect to a 50A generator inlet.
Reference: hubbellcdn.com/ohwassets/HCI/WiringDevice/media/NEMA_Chart.pdf
Thanks for paying attention to the details. Your chart is a great reference, I included it in the details section of the video for everyone to reference. Right or wrong, the plug I show in the video (ABN L5-50R Connector - 50 Amp Twist Lock Inlet) is the one used on my house for my generator hookup. The other plug I show L14-30R is likely the more common connection and the one that is directly compatible with the EcoFlow connections.
What is the max output of the hub? If I have 6 units 3600*6 is going to be able to handle it? I have a 5 tons AC
I was able to run my 4ton AC after some adjustments to the soft start system, but it could barely start it. Those units aren't really designed for that kind of load.
How do you enable the UPS function? Is that the same as X-Boost?
A single unit will automatically function in UPS mode if it is plugged in. X-boost allows the inverter to put out more than it's rated capacity with some degradation in signal performance.
Hey! Love your content, thanks so much for sharing. Quick Question, as I'm not a big tech nerd, but concerned.
A couple hours ago, I ordered the Delta2Max, Extra Battery & 400W Solar Panel for $4k.
Wouldn't it be a better buy to get the DeltaPro & 2x400W Solar Panel for $4,350?
Did I just make a mistake and not see the potential for an extra $350? Please advise asap if possible. Thanks so much!
It depends on what you need it for. The Delta Pro has much more AC capacity at 3,600W, but the big advantage is that the solar input is capable of 150V on the Delta Pro and only 60V on the Delta 2 Max. If you are solar charging, the higher voltage is a big deal, it gives you a lot more options in terms of solar panel configurations. However, portability would be better with the smaller unit.
@@ProjectsWithDave ty sir. As I’m looking to expand in the future as use it as a whole-home back up system, I will cancel my order and get the pro. Ty sir for your prompt reply. Appreciate you greatly.
hi Dave, you have the same generator inlet (50amp) to Delta Pro (30amp) situation that I have. Where did you get your 50amp inlet male to 30amp male (to EcoFlow) cable with such thin cabling? I had to build my own with a oven/range 30amp plug to a Reliance 30amp plug, but these have huge thick unyielding cabling.
I built it with 6-6-6-6 SER. Something like this: www.wireandcableyourway.com/6-6-6-6-copper-ser-service-entrance-cable
It's not very flexible, but works for emergency situations.
In the Philippines, our voltage is 220 already. Does that mean i would only need one unit that they sell here as a 220v unit? And can i hook up to my home panel the same yours?
Yes, if you don't have split phase, just get the 220V version. Make sure the frequency matches as well.
Well, it works as you described until it doesn't. I have seen a couple of videos that want to use the hub but have to update the firmware first. You must have been sent DP with updated firmware. Second, some that I know of have received at rear 554 error. I have yet been able to find clear details as to what the 554 error code is or how to fix it. When I try to update the firmware, the ap indicates that it needs access to my phone's memory and dumps me into my "settings ap" but I have no idea what I need to do there. Frustrating. Ecoflow is only open for service M-F 8-5. Same as 80% of the population. So I need to take time off work to sit with them on the phone.
I have sent them serial numbers for both DPs and the hub. Time will tell if I get help.
That's frustrating. Let us know if it gets resolved.
Filming? What film and camera did you use to film this?
Mostly a GoPro Hero 9 Black: amzn.to/48E3vTG
Will the hub connect to my L14/30 generator plug installed outside my house?
Yes, it's a standard twist lock.
The Dual voltage hub is not meant to take power into the units if that is what you are asking.
anyone tried to plug them into AC at the same time they were discharging thru the double voltage hub?
What is the name of that tester you used @ 15:25 ?
This is the one I use now, it works better than the one in this video: amzn.to/3XckPLm
The plug on the outside of the house did not appear to have a ground. Or only three tabs. But you are supposedly feeding it with two poles and a neutral. Why is this?
It does have a ground connection as well.