Your Gasser takes me back in time, I had a 1952 Chevy in 1963, when I was 16 yrs old, and would go to Atco Drag Way in South Jersey. I enjoy watching your channel very much.
Great work Sir. I'm jealous because I am 74 years old no longer have the stamina to do what you do. I am now subscribed so I can see more of your handiwork. BTW, that motor sounds like a real bad actor. Nice.
I missed comment some how, I'm also 74 years old, and things defiantly take longer in particular getting up and down. You will not see that in a video. Get out there and do something.
We had the wiring for a fan get crushed in the tilt front hinge. The fan would blow a 10 amp fuse when it was turned on till we found the issue. My concern is will a 16 ga. wire melt before tripping a 30 amp breaker. I still think built in tow hooks are a good idea, especially when you have a two piece drive shaft out on the track. Plus they provide a convenient tie down spot in the trailer, so nothing is getting damaged from a poorly placed tie down. I do like a nice clean wiring job it makes finding an issue, so much easier.
The fan and pump wiring are between the engine mount and the shock mount and cannot be reached by the hood slider or hinge. The 30 amp breaker is only an over all protection. There are fuses for each system in the control console. For now no tow hooks. As far as tie downs go you should tie down to unsuspended toe points, that means the tie downs should go around the axles not a point on the car. Tank you for taking the time to comment.
@@ThrottleStopRacing We have loops welded to each frame rail on each side, then we have chains with a safety latch already set to the length we want to place the car where we want it in the trailer. You pull in snap the chains on parallel to the frame rails, then cross the straps at the back around the rear axle then tighten it down. This way you slightly compress the front suspension so if a tire leaks down it doesn't come loose. I avoid tying to the front axle so there is no chance of messing up the alignment, plus if you break down on the track they want it cleared fast so if someone comes with a golf cart and looks under there and sees a white loop to hook to your stuff isn't getting messed up.
Your work is beyond excellent, Sir. If I may ask, would you remember you found the sliders? I would like to do the exact thing in my Jeep build for my grandson.
Here is a lint to the sliders www.amazon.com/dp/B08GSP41QK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 good luck on your project, and thanks for the comment.
@@ThrottleStopRacing Thank you so much, Sir. I had looked but couldn't find it. This will be a much better solution than what I had in mind. Thank you again.
I Would Put Stay Bars On It To Hold The Radiator In Place At The Top. No Shims Needed . I Build Cars As Well But I Build Them Right Old Man... Your A Hack. Hack Em Up....
Actually if you look close there are nut serts in the side of the core support just for the purpose of supporting the core support. Thanks for the comment.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Your Gasser takes me back in time, I had a 1952 Chevy in 1963, when I was 16 yrs old, and would go to Atco Drag Way in South Jersey. I enjoy watching your channel very much.
I'm happy that the video brought back good memories, and thanks for the comment.
I like the harness in the rail .it is exactly where mine are needing to be. Thanks for the tips
You are welcome and thanks for the comment.
I enjoyed watching your problem solving.
That is part of the fun. Thanks for the comment.
I do enjoy watching your projects and your progress!!!
I also enjoy progress, but it does not always happen that way. For some reason it always works out on the video though.
Well done ! More check offs on the LIST!
IO'm running out of things to do before the body has to come back off.
Great work Sir. I'm jealous because I am 74 years old no longer have the stamina to do what you do. I am now subscribed so I can see more of your handiwork. BTW, that motor sounds like a real bad actor. Nice.
I missed comment some how, I'm also 74 years old, and things defiantly take longer in particular getting up and down. You will not see that in a video. Get out there and do something.
thank you for the videos. you're doing a great job.
It is harder than you would think, thanks for the comment.
another great video Glenn
Thank you!
Thank you sir
You are welcome. Thanks for the comment.
We had the wiring for a fan get crushed in the tilt front hinge. The fan would blow a 10 amp fuse when it was turned on till we found the issue. My concern is will a 16 ga. wire melt before tripping a 30 amp breaker. I still think built in tow hooks are a good idea, especially when you have a two piece drive shaft out on the track. Plus they provide a convenient tie down spot in the trailer, so nothing is getting damaged from a poorly placed tie down. I do like a nice clean wiring job it makes finding an issue, so much easier.
The fan and pump wiring are between the engine mount and the shock mount and cannot be reached by the hood slider or hinge. The 30 amp breaker is only an over all protection. There are fuses for each system in the control console. For now no tow hooks. As far as tie downs go you should tie down to unsuspended toe points, that means the tie downs should go around the axles not a point on the car. Tank you for taking the time to comment.
@@ThrottleStopRacing We have loops welded to each frame rail on each side, then we have chains with a safety latch already set to the length we want to place the car where we want it in the trailer. You pull in snap the chains on parallel to the frame rails, then cross the straps at the back around the rear axle then tighten it down. This way you slightly compress the front suspension so if a tire leaks down it doesn't come loose. I avoid tying to the front axle so there is no chance of messing up the alignment, plus if you break down on the track they want it cleared fast so if someone comes with a golf cart and looks under there and sees a white loop to hook to your stuff isn't getting messed up.
@@ronosga4391 I understand your argument, but for now no hook.
How much of the grill and chrome and bumper are you going to have up front on the final product?
For now They will all remain. Thanks for the question.
Your work is beyond excellent, Sir. If I may ask, would you remember you found the sliders? I would like to do the exact thing in my Jeep build for my grandson.
Here is a lint to the sliders www.amazon.com/dp/B08GSP41QK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 good luck on your project, and thanks for the comment.
@@ThrottleStopRacing Thank you so much, Sir. I had looked but couldn't find it. This will be a much better solution than what I had in mind. Thank you again.
Very well done! Nice clean work on your wiring solution. Fellow ASE tech here retired.
@@larrythompson7802 At one time in the past I had the Master ASE qualification. The wiring came out pretty nice. Thanks for the comment,
Hello .am enjoying your program! Are you going to install headers?
Some time in the future I would like to install fender wall headers. Many other things to do first. Thanks for the question.
I Would Put Stay Bars On It To Hold The Radiator In Place At The Top. No Shims Needed . I Build Cars As Well But I Build Them Right Old Man... Your A Hack. Hack Em Up....
Actually if you look close there are nut serts in the side of the core support just for the purpose of supporting the core support. Thanks for the comment.