Yeah, as you say, machinists do NOT measure little holes like that with a caliper as you did. It does not work. Just take the tips to a machine shop and ask them to measure the ID's for you.
The Sata 5000 rp 1.3 is a hose. The tip is bigger than a 1.3 The 1.2 RP is perfect. Not all Sata's are like this. But there are alot of guns in the line up going all the way back to the 2000 series with this issue.
@@juniorizq2342 also manufacturers like sata did this because in the 1990s 1.5 was the way to go for gravity guns. Then, paint manufactures changed the thickness of the paint when going from DBU, to DBC basecoat for example. Now, to get a painter to change there ways was not easy. Ex. Now saying 1.4 is the way to go. That not as easy as it is today. Thats my reason. I was around for change in the 90s. I remember the reps and the painters mentality. It took a decade to get clear guns from 1.4 to 1.3
So switch the tips and see which feels better then.. but no matter what gun you use, if your smooth, steady and repeatable you can make a 25$ guns finish turn out the exact same as a 1000$ gun.. as long as the 25$ gun works and doesnt hold up or have defects then theres no reason why it shouldnt lay down just as nice.. its all about your control, your eye and repetition.. if you can run that gun in the exact same direction, speed and distance from the work on every contour keeping the correct overlap for your job with the right fan and amount..
I have an Intertool LVLP which is a rebrand of Auarita 898-2, Its a Sata style spray gun. The 1.3 is actually 1.4mm. I used a tooth pick and stuck in in the nozzle and measured the tooth pick. I wouldn't put the caliper inside the nozzle hole.
The widow uses more air than the Sata, the blue accents on the Sata indicate that it's the RP(reduced pressure) gun, HVLP Satas have green accents The 5000 RP in the video uses 10CFM of air, while the 1.3HTE Black widow uses 11.8, so it both delivers less material than the Sata, and also uses 18% more air
I talked to a painter and he told me that’s not a harbor freight gun it’s just sold at harbor freight, I don’t know that’s just what he said, but he did say it was a quality paint gun, it’s almost $200 now with the new one
So I have a black widow, and two hvlp husky composite guns, haven’t used any of them yet, but would I benefit more from HVLP that requires less volume than the black widow that requires over 11 cfm?
Depends naturally hvlps take more air but sounds that in your case it might be the opposite, I think it will all depend on your compressor and the volume of air it can produce if it can’t meet up with the high cfm demand then you may want to seek a gun that takes low or lower cfm
thank you, i have been painting for 40 years mostly motorcycles and just did my second hot rod, my sata guns are 1.3 and a 1.4 when i noticed over the years the 1.4 needle ended up in the 1.3 gun and vice versa, as i'm shooting clear on my 69 camaro shell it is not right, it looked like instead of mist a worn out gun effect or garden hose type of exageration, i got some sags in the passenger side because of a contaminant even after washing the car down then using water and rag to get any dust off then blowing it off and tack rag light, it all just kept fighting me, this is a way my buddy does cars pock hole in the right quarter that wanted to keep funneling out, so i get stupid and put another heavy coat on it and it just came back and then saged with run, i was pissed, all these things gang up on me when trying to blend with out orange peel for less sading befor buff i sanded these things out but examined my guns to find the problem and will run a test panel and i think it will be best to just seal the break in the finish with sealewr then touch up with black and reclear the whole cab of the car because it really needed 3 coats of clear, but what a bitch with the gun screwed up, its like a nightmare but now i know to be more on the ball with tools and the right activator, slow is best in high temp. very humid and 80 is not a great day trying to do this in a half assed spray booth but it did teach me some hard lessons that will make me a better painter.
This guys knows his stuff. Very good analysis bro. But I would like to kindly request if you can do more how to spray videos so people like me can learn. Thanks in advance.
Personally I would go for the amazon one, because it is actually being sold by Iwata themselves in some cases, with eBay your taking a big chance that most likely it’s a knock off, but you won’t know it till it’s in your hand.
Neither unless you thin the paint way down. Most concrete paint is a oil base and for concrete it needs to go on thicker than automotive paint . I would suggest a pressure pod gun it doesn’t matter if it’s a siphon feed gun or hvlp or hte your tip should be at a 1.8 or bigger tip size but if you have to use compressed air I would suggest a pressure pod gun
Hopper gun like you use for drywall texture. Modify it with a PVC 45* elbow so it will shoot straight down. I’ve modified half a dozen of these and it sprays the cement great.
I gotta say i like SATA but not worth the $$ ! Harbor freight is bank ! Only down fall is their machine work is crude but for the $ i can clean it up myself lol Point made look at air cap finish on the air pattern holes. Still love their guns even the purple budget gun sprays flawless just watch where you rest your thumb on the fan knob lol
It’s the size on the needle that goes into the tip that’s milled into the back of the tip that makes the tip size not the hole in front of the tip and also the sata is a high volume low pressure where the black widow is a high transfer efficiency gun . Your comparing apples with oranges
Sata is an Rp model which is considered reduced pressure (HTE ) same as Black widow , but you are right about the needle and tip size , but their are inaccuracies of measuring a needle at the tip, so I measure the tip to see size difference since the needle will be tapered which won’t let us accurately measure size, as far as diameter of the actual needle they were almost identical.
Hi! Sata`s "secret" is not secret at all. Sata is measuring a little different than for example DeVilbiss. They are using millimeters, but Sata using just "1-1,1-1,2-1,3..." Those are not millimeters or inch, or any that kind of known svale.. Just "marks". If i want to buy 1,2mm nozzle to my Sata gun, i buy 1,0 or 1,1 nozzle.. It is true, that some Sata spray gun`s box says: 1,1mm, but they say, that they not using millimeter scale.. spooky.. Does that really matter? The gun is just a little faster..
What is a good gun and tip to use to lay down primer and what is a good gun for paint and clean and tips thanks for the help im new at this just want to learn but I don't want to get bad guns
Honestly just about any gun you get will spray primer , I wouldn’t be too focused on which gun, as far as tip goes it depends on the primer you are using tip size 1.4-2.0 are ideal depending on the thickness of the primer. Thicker the primer the larger the size you will need
@@nelsonfernandez7473 no worries if you are looking for a all around gun maybe try a 3m 2.0 performance gun might well suited for ya one gun that can shoot anything
The tip of the needle is the measurement The fluid tips fit the tip of 1.3ish Like motorcycles 600 cc is more like 589 Yes satas are fast spraying guns your gun is a reduced pressure sata RP B Its a good basecoat gun check out the tips on the sata phaser and the x5500
I think that if the parts will interchange & fit , a real comparison would be to put all the SATA parts into the Harbor Freight body & then compare it to the Harbor Freight internals & see just what a difference it actually makes against itself with the known SATA parts in your hand that has already been tested & compared to see the whole truth ...APPLES to APPLES instead of APPLES to ORANGES as they say ...Make a real comparison as to Exactly what the Real difference is ...Is SATA LYING on purpose trying to Defraud all the public to make themselves look Superior when all they're doing is cheating by LYING about the Specs on their Tip size they're using ...Using a different Harbor Freight Tip wouldn't Solve the mystery at all , but using the already parts in hand would ..Let's see SAT go Head to Head with the HARBOR FREIGHT gun with The SATA parts in The HARBOR FREIGHT Gun Body & see just how SATA Stacks Up... Thanks for listening...
Although this would be a brilliant idea , I tried , none of the parts were interchangeable as the guns although looked similar , were very different in dimensions. Only way this would actually be possible is if I could custom machine the parts to fit, which would be very costly and would essentially modify the gun to the point of destroying the sprayguns original design. 😪
@@Mechaniclyfe I have a 25+ year old SATAJET B that the nozzles and fluid tips all interchange with my HF purple, their professional, and their chrome $70 gun. China copied the SATA. Using micro drill bits I opened the atomization holes on the HF guns to match the SATA. I then place nozzles in my lathe and made 1.6,1.8,1.9’s. I purchased another SATA Chinese copy and it came with a 2.0. All the Chinese nozzles were deburred. This gives me variation on all the guns.
@@Mechaniclyfe I just finished a tank. Primer was sprayed with the old HF set that came with 2 guns. Atomization holes opened up and fluid nozzle opened to 1.9. Base was sprayed with HF Professional gun (Chrome) 1.4 with larger atomization holes. The base laid nice so I just went ahead and clear coated it my modified purple gun. I practiced on and off with older 100% solids Urethane paint. Bought new paint kits. Many failures, many improvements to my homemade booth, a lot of sanding and stripping. 2 - 12’ strips of brown paper on my booth wall of setting fan, pressure to get fine droplets. Finally it all came together and told myself just paint it. I got plenty of sanding practice😂. The clear was like glass, (luckily), so nice no wet sanding or polishing. I would show it but don’t know how. I have more confidence now. A professional would have prepped and painted in an hour. I have a lot to learn. I also wish I could show my 10’x12’x12’ high both. It’s designed to be raised by winch to get my space back and dropped and ready to go (2hrs) again. My next project on my guns is to use my suction guns with air assist to the cup. My Binks 2001 came with this feature. I’ve purchased the 3M PPS original H/O cup system. I also converted a pint cup because I’m only painting motorcyle parts so a quart is a waste. I purchased 2 AirVerter md 69 air assist suction guns last week for $50. Used primarily by the military airframe painting. It was made with a 1.4 fluid nozzle. I’m going to make a 1.0, 1.3, 1.6, 1.8, and 2.0 out of 7/16” SS hex stock. They both have quart cups. My converted pint and the H/O cups work with them. When I purchased these, they guy says do you want these 2 red Devilbiss suction guns for free. I never turn free down! All disassembled in 2 bags. I got home and found threads damaged and and a part for the air baffle missing. I made the part and scraped the damaged thread to where I could get a tap to recut. Both now spray nice. They are DeVilbiss EXL with 1.8 nozzles. I have bought a 1.1, 1.5, and 2.0 nozzle to make these guns able to spray primer, base, and clear as with the AirVerter. I’m going to drill into the air chambers and tap 1/16” npt for the 1/16” hose barbs I bought. I want to inhance the suction by air assist to improve flow. I have a Devilbiss old GTI suction gun that all the nozzles, air baffles, and fluid tips all interchange with the EXL’s. It was a freebie because of damaged 2.0 nozzle and missing packing nut. Nut is on the way off eBay. I’ll do the same to this gun. If I want to just use suction I have 1/16” npt plugs. Yesterday, just suction only and my PPS cup air inlet plugged the 2 EXL guns have a very nice fan pattern so with air assist I might have a few good guns. I’m not one to go out and spend $500-$800 for a gun. I’m trying to learn what makes any gun cheap or high quality perform the best possible possible. I have the time, tooling, machining experience to see what’s possible. Professional painter are artist. Their mistakes are rare. They have customers to satisfy. They deserve every dollar they charge. I machine parts for race bikes and do it free because I know I helped make the motorcycle hit 150 down the back straightaway. Modifying all my guns I take the same quality pride and precision that the big name companies do.
Wrong! To correctly measure an ID(inside Diameter) its best to use Gauge or Deltronics pins, and Zero out the Digital Calipers on a ring gauge(for the ID), or a ground bushing. Some may say we're not sending parts to space, which is granted. But if your going to do apples to apples, then do it right. The small tapper on the SATA tip ensures smoother laminer flow off the tip. I am a CNC Machinist/ MFG Engineer, so I have been around. I hope this helps.
Most calipers have a flat maybe .010-.015 wide where they meet together. This is done to keep from wearing the faces. If they where to a sharp knife edge you would wear the edge where the full length would not touch when closed. The flat surfaces when placed in small holes will never touch the tangent point of the hole at 180° of the flats. Your measurements will be smaller than actual size. As stated gage pins, expensive, if you don’t work in a machine shop. In my case I have micro drillbit set. I have a set of dial calipers that I filed to a sharp edge just for hole measurements if I need to. A word of advice. If you are going to open up the atomization holes in an air cap, know they are at an angle so the air is pointed to blend into the flow at a certain distance in the paint from of the fluid nozzle for atomization. Use a hand held pin vise and twist with slight pressure and the drill will follow the angle. Remember to deburr the holes. I find the size with a drill bitand use the next size up so not to load the cutting lips of the drill. Then use the next size up. The caps are chromed brass. Easy to drill in steps. I’ve had to finish the holes in the Chinese stainless steel nozzles that weren’t drill through. It takes light pressure and small size adjustments. If the drill binds it will slip in the pin vise. If using a small Jacobs stile chuck you can snap the bit. To remove can be tricky. I recommend a pin vice by hand. If your going to drill a fluid nozzle say a 1.4 to a 2.0, drill from the inside out through the front. If drilled from the front you can leave a burr as the drill breaks through. If not removed, the needle might not sear and let paint drip when trigger is released. I now have a 1/16” chamfer bit I use on all the holes. Chinese quality will never be like all of the pro gun nor quality control. If I painted for profit I’d buy the best. I paint only for myself so I like making cheap guns perform better.
With the needle in the air cap it might be a 1.3 , I don’t know about dirty secrets u are comparing a gun that can last 10 years if looked after to one that would struggle to last 10 months
Sata's are pigs with their technology being around forever nothing special. Get an Iwata with the patent tulip tip technology for the best atomization.
Carburetor jet drill bits would give you a very accurate measure
Yeah, as you say, machinists do NOT measure little holes like that with a caliper as you did. It does not work. Just take the tips to a machine shop and ask them to measure the ID's for you.
Nice video brother love it
Brilliant video
Man I didn’t think about that lol thanks for the video bro!
Thanks brother
Good information. Thank you.
Nice bit of information.
The Sata 5000 rp 1.3 is a hose. The tip is bigger than a 1.3 The 1.2 RP is perfect. Not all Sata's are like this. But there are alot of guns in the line up going all the way back to the 2000 series with this issue.
Alot of manufactures do thats for example normal ones would be a 1.3 but some manufactures actually makes them a 1.35 to make them faster
@@juniorizq2342 also manufacturers like sata did this because in the 1990s 1.5 was the way to go for gravity guns. Then, paint manufactures changed the thickness of the paint when going from DBU, to DBC basecoat for example. Now, to get a painter to change there ways was not easy. Ex. Now saying 1.4 is the way to go. That not as easy as it is today. Thats my reason. I was around for change in the 90s. I remember the reps and the painters mentality. It took a decade to get clear guns from 1.4 to 1.3
You have to use gauge pins to measure bores that small.
Great vid.
U could use a drill bit to ck the size of the fluid tip. It could be tapered.
So switch the tips and see which feels better then.. but no matter what gun you use, if your smooth, steady and repeatable you can make a 25$ guns finish turn out the exact same as a 1000$ gun.. as long as the 25$ gun works and doesnt hold up or have defects then theres no reason why it shouldnt lay down just as nice.. its all about your control, your eye and repetition.. if you can run that gun in the exact same direction, speed and distance from the work on every contour keeping the correct overlap for your job with the right fan and amount..
I have an Intertool LVLP which is a rebrand of Auarita 898-2, Its a Sata style spray gun. The 1.3 is actually 1.4mm. I used a tooth pick and stuck in in the nozzle and measured the tooth pick. I wouldn't put the caliper inside the nozzle hole.
Nice video
Thank you
What no one ever talks about is the black widow you can use a much smaller compressor set up being the hte over hvlp and still get a decent finish
The widow uses more air than the Sata, the blue accents on the Sata indicate that it's the RP(reduced pressure) gun, HVLP Satas have green accents
The 5000 RP in the video uses 10CFM of air, while the 1.3HTE Black widow uses 11.8, so it both delivers less material than the Sata, and also uses 18% more air
I talked to a painter and he told me that’s not a harbor freight gun it’s just sold at harbor freight, I don’t know that’s just what he said, but he did say it was a quality paint gun, it’s almost $200 now with the new one
So I have a black widow, and two hvlp husky composite guns, haven’t used any of them yet, but would I benefit more from HVLP that requires less volume than the black widow that requires over 11 cfm?
Depends naturally hvlps take more air but sounds that in your case it might be the opposite, I think it will all depend on your compressor and the volume of air it can produce if it can’t meet up with the high cfm demand then you may want to seek a gun that takes low or lower cfm
Sata guns are always cannons... no secrets un-earthed here ... if you want BIG fan, BIG fluid, BIG price tag.... buy a Sata 🤷
He said” don’t quote me on this “ ahahaha
thank you, i have been painting for 40 years mostly motorcycles and just did my second hot rod, my sata guns
are 1.3 and a 1.4 when i noticed over the years the 1.4 needle ended up in the 1.3 gun and vice versa,
as i'm shooting clear on my 69 camaro shell it is not right, it looked like instead of mist a worn out gun
effect or garden hose type of exageration, i got some sags in the passenger side because of a contaminant
even after washing the car down then using water and rag to get any dust off then blowing it off and tack rag light,
it all just kept fighting me, this is a way my buddy does cars
pock hole in the right quarter that wanted to keep funneling out, so i get stupid and put another heavy coat on it and
it just came back and then saged with run, i was pissed, all these things gang up on me when trying to blend with out
orange peel for less sading befor buff i sanded these things out but examined my guns to find the problem
and will run a test panel and i think it will be best to just seal the break in the finish with sealewr then touch up with
black and reclear the whole cab of the car because it really needed 3 coats of clear, but what a bitch with the gun screwed
up, its like a nightmare but now i know to be more on the ball with tools and the right activator, slow is best in high temp. very
humid and 80 is not a great day trying to do this in a half assed spray booth but it did teach me some hard lessons that will make me a better painter.
It’s hard fighting that humidity and heat. I use to spray a lot of lacquer in cabinet shops in middle Georgia.. it’s rough spraying down here
This guys knows his stuff. Very good analysis bro. But I would like to kindly request if you can do more how to spray videos so people like me can learn. Thanks in advance.
Can you tell us why the Iwata LS400 spray in Ebay has all of the extra writing on the nozzle? I looked at the Iwata gun in Amazon and it has line.
Gotta be careful on there some of those are knockoffs
Personally I would go for the amazon one, because it is actually being sold by Iwata themselves in some cases, with eBay your taking a big chance that most likely it’s a knock off, but you won’t know it till it’s in your hand.
@@Mechaniclyfe Thanks. You might have saved me $500.
I can post a picture of what the air cap looks like for the base model if you’d like
That explains alot.
Which one do I use for cement paint on Drive way? HTE or HVLP?
Neither unless you thin the paint way down. Most concrete paint is a oil base and for concrete it needs to go on thicker than automotive paint . I would suggest a pressure pod gun it doesn’t matter if it’s a siphon feed gun or hvlp or hte your tip should be at a 1.8 or bigger tip size but if you have to use compressed air I would suggest a pressure pod gun
Hopper gun like you use for drywall texture. Modify it with a PVC 45* elbow so it will shoot straight down. I’ve modified half a dozen of these and it sprays the cement great.
Interesting.
It sure is
I gotta say i like SATA but not worth the $$ ! Harbor freight is bank ! Only down fall is their machine work is crude but for the $ i can clean it up myself lol
Point made look at air cap finish on the air pattern holes.
Still love their guns even the purple budget gun sprays flawless just watch where you rest your thumb on the fan knob lol
It’s the size on the needle that goes into the tip that’s milled into the back of the tip that makes the tip size not the hole in front of the tip and also the sata is a high volume low pressure where the black widow is a high transfer efficiency gun . Your comparing apples with oranges
Sata is an Rp model which is considered reduced pressure (HTE ) same as Black widow , but you are right about the needle and tip size , but their are inaccuracies of measuring a needle at the tip, so I measure the tip to see size difference since the needle will be tapered which won’t let us accurately measure size, as far as diameter of the actual needle they were almost identical.
Sata has indeed a larger nozzle opening, just grab some small drill bits and see what size slides in...
Yes ive heard a 1.3 sata is equivalent to 1.4 on another gun.my sata x5500 rp was a 1.4 but was overkill so i made it 1.3 and its perfect for me
It might be worth trying to Mod the Tip-- to 1.35+... 🤔 🤣
Hi! Sata`s "secret" is not secret at all. Sata is measuring a little different than for example DeVilbiss. They are using millimeters, but Sata using just "1-1,1-1,2-1,3..." Those are not millimeters or inch, or any that kind of known svale.. Just "marks".
If i want to buy 1,2mm nozzle to my Sata gun, i buy 1,0 or 1,1 nozzle.. It is true, that some Sata spray gun`s box says: 1,1mm, but they say, that they not using millimeter scale.. spooky.. Does that really matter? The gun is just a little faster..
What is a good gun and tip to use to lay down primer and what is a good gun for paint and clean and tips thanks for the help im new at this just want to learn but I don't want to get bad guns
Honestly just about any gun you get will spray primer , I wouldn’t be too focused on which gun, as far as tip goes it depends on the primer you are using tip size 1.4-2.0 are ideal depending on the thickness of the primer. Thicker the primer the larger the size you will need
@@Mechaniclyfe I really appreciate your help, in teaching people that are just getting started like me thank you very very much
@@nelsonfernandez7473 no worries if you are looking for a all around gun maybe try a 3m 2.0 performance gun might well suited for ya one gun that can shoot anything
The tip of the needle is the measurement
The fluid tips fit the tip of 1.3ish
Like motorcycles 600 cc is more like 589
Yes satas are fast spraying guns your gun is a reduced pressure sata RP B
Its a good basecoat gun check out the tips on the sata phaser and the x5500
What if u use the Sata tip with the black widow spraygun
Doesn’t fit unfortunately
Someone said the sata 5000 rebuild kit will work on the black widow. What donyou think? Do they look the same?
Some parts interchange but not all
@@Mechaniclyfe what about a cap, nozzle, needle.
I don't want to order a 1.4 setup from HF
I think that if the parts will interchange & fit , a real comparison would be to put all the SATA parts into the Harbor Freight body & then compare it to the Harbor Freight internals & see just what a difference it actually makes against itself with the known SATA parts in your hand that has already been tested & compared to see the whole truth ...APPLES to APPLES instead of APPLES to ORANGES as they say ...Make a real comparison as to Exactly what the Real difference is ...Is SATA LYING on purpose trying to Defraud all the public to make themselves look Superior when all they're doing is cheating by LYING about the Specs on their Tip size they're using ...Using a different Harbor Freight Tip wouldn't Solve the mystery at all , but using the already parts in hand would
..Let's see SAT go Head to Head with the HARBOR FREIGHT gun with The SATA parts in The HARBOR FREIGHT Gun Body & see just how SATA Stacks Up... Thanks for listening...
Although this would be a brilliant idea , I tried , none of the parts were interchangeable as the guns although looked similar , were very different in dimensions. Only way this would actually be possible is if I could custom machine the parts to fit, which would be very costly and would essentially modify the gun to the point of destroying the sprayguns original design. 😪
@@Mechaniclyfe I have a 25+ year old SATAJET B that the nozzles and fluid tips all interchange with my HF purple, their professional, and their chrome $70 gun. China copied the SATA. Using micro drill bits I opened the atomization holes on the HF guns to match the SATA. I then place nozzles in my lathe and made 1.6,1.8,1.9’s. I purchased another SATA Chinese copy and it came with a 2.0. All the Chinese nozzles were deburred. This gives me variation on all the guns.
Dude that is awesome , so do you think the purple gun would perform like your sata? Are you noticingnpressure variations with the purple gun?
@@Mechaniclyfe I just finished a tank. Primer was sprayed with the old HF set that came with 2 guns. Atomization holes opened up and fluid nozzle opened to 1.9. Base was sprayed with HF Professional gun (Chrome) 1.4 with larger atomization holes. The base laid nice so I just went ahead and clear coated it my modified purple gun. I practiced on and off with older 100% solids Urethane paint. Bought new paint kits. Many failures, many improvements to my homemade booth, a lot of sanding and stripping. 2 - 12’ strips of brown paper on my booth wall of setting fan, pressure to get fine droplets. Finally it all came together and told myself just paint it. I got plenty of sanding practice😂. The clear was like glass, (luckily), so nice no wet sanding or polishing.
I would show it but don’t know how. I have more confidence now. A professional would have prepped and painted in an hour. I have a lot to learn. I also wish I could show my 10’x12’x12’ high both. It’s designed to be raised by winch to get my space back and dropped and ready to go (2hrs) again. My next project on my guns is to use my suction guns with air assist to the cup. My Binks 2001 came with this feature. I’ve purchased the 3M PPS original H/O cup system. I also converted a pint cup because I’m only painting motorcyle parts so a quart is a waste. I purchased 2 AirVerter md 69 air assist suction guns last week for $50. Used primarily by the military airframe painting. It was made with a 1.4 fluid nozzle. I’m going to make a 1.0, 1.3, 1.6, 1.8, and 2.0 out of 7/16” SS hex stock. They both have quart cups. My converted pint and the H/O cups work with them. When I purchased these, they guy says do you want these 2 red Devilbiss suction guns for free. I never turn free down! All disassembled in 2 bags. I got home and found threads damaged and and a part for the air baffle missing. I made the part and scraped the damaged thread to where I could get a tap to recut. Both now spray nice. They are DeVilbiss EXL with 1.8 nozzles. I have bought a 1.1, 1.5, and 2.0 nozzle to make these guns able to spray primer, base, and clear as with the AirVerter. I’m going to drill into the air chambers and tap 1/16” npt for the 1/16” hose barbs I bought. I want to inhance the suction by air assist to improve flow. I have a Devilbiss old GTI suction gun that all the nozzles, air baffles, and fluid tips all interchange with the EXL’s. It was a freebie because of damaged 2.0 nozzle and missing packing nut. Nut is on the way off eBay. I’ll do the same to this gun. If I want to just use suction I have 1/16” npt plugs. Yesterday, just suction only and my PPS cup air inlet plugged the 2 EXL guns have a very nice fan pattern so with air assist I might have a few good guns.
I’m not one to go out and spend $500-$800 for a gun. I’m trying to learn what makes any gun cheap or high quality perform the best possible possible. I have the time, tooling, machining experience to see what’s possible. Professional painter are artist. Their mistakes are rare. They have customers to satisfy. They deserve every dollar they charge. I machine parts for race bikes and do it free because I know I helped make the motorcycle hit 150 down the back straightaway. Modifying all my guns I take the same quality pride and precision that the big name companies do.
You are using an RP sata. Those always spray faster. So I've been told
Wrong! To correctly measure an ID(inside Diameter) its best to use Gauge or Deltronics pins, and Zero out the Digital Calipers on a ring gauge(for the ID), or a ground bushing. Some may say we're not sending parts to space, which is granted. But if your going to do apples to apples, then do it right. The small tapper on the SATA tip ensures smoother laminer flow off the tip. I am a CNC Machinist/ MFG Engineer, so I have been around. I hope this helps.
If you think about Sata - just buy Iwata :)
Veneer calipers .. a micrometer is a COMPLETE different much much more precise tool ..
Thank god someone pointed that out
Most calipers have a flat maybe .010-.015 wide where they meet together. This is done to keep from wearing the faces. If they where to a sharp knife edge you would wear the edge where the full length would not touch when closed. The flat surfaces when placed in small holes will never touch the tangent point of the hole at 180° of the flats. Your measurements will be smaller than actual size. As stated gage pins, expensive, if you don’t work in a machine shop. In my case I have micro drillbit set. I have a set of dial calipers that I filed to a sharp edge just for hole measurements if I need to. A word of advice. If you are going to open up the atomization holes in an air cap, know they are at an angle so the air is pointed to blend into the flow at a certain distance in the paint from of the fluid nozzle for atomization. Use a hand held pin vise and twist with slight pressure and the drill will follow the angle. Remember to deburr the holes. I find the size with a drill bitand use the next size up so not to load the cutting lips of the drill. Then use the next size up. The caps are chromed brass. Easy to drill in steps. I’ve had to finish the holes in the Chinese stainless steel nozzles that weren’t drill through. It takes light pressure and small size adjustments. If the drill binds it will slip in the pin vise. If using a small Jacobs stile chuck you can snap the bit. To remove can be tricky. I recommend a pin vice by hand. If your going to drill a fluid nozzle say a 1.4 to a 2.0, drill from the inside out through the front. If drilled from the front you can leave a burr as the drill breaks through. If not removed, the needle might not sear and let paint drip when trigger is released. I now have a 1/16” chamfer bit I use on all the holes. Chinese quality will never be like all of the pro gun nor quality control. If I painted for profit I’d buy the best. I paint only for myself so I like making cheap guns perform better.
10% bigger tip
That is a Caliper ! Not a micrometer !
Yes caliper correct
THANK YOU!!!! WAS BUGGING THE HELL OUT OF ME!!! LMAO
You're comparing RP to HTE so as far as i see , there is no comparison
Thats not a micromerer. That is what u call a caliper
Yes correct thank you
The air jets are of course different.. your comparing an rp to an hte cap.
With the needle in the air cap it might be a 1.3 , I don’t know about dirty secrets u are comparing a gun that can last 10 years if looked after to one that would struggle to last 10 months
I have a sata and silvers have streaks switch gun to develbiss streaks go away
That's a digital caliper, not micrometer.
Oops yeah true
@@Mechaniclyfe Interesting findings though.
Thanks 🙏🏻 I believe I discovered why they make the tips a bit larger tho , might make a video about
@@Mechaniclyfe sure. I'd watch
Omg I can tell u don't know about different guns technologies. U ARE COMPARING HVLP TO RP TECHNOLOGY!!!!! Totally wrong video
Hte is not hvlp
RP and HTE are the same, it’s just SATA patented the designation.
Sata's are pigs with their technology being around forever nothing special. Get an Iwata with the patent tulip tip technology for the best atomization.
Talk when you catiually know...
Bro that is a digital caliper not a micrometer....u dig?