Mechanical Eng here, great video love the angles and troubleshooting tips you mentioned. One large but hopefully informative comment: Crimping the axle nut is just a fail safe in the event of the nut ever coming loose. It itself wont keep the original engagement of the wheel assembly/axle shaft to the transmission. That is what the specified pretension (212ftlbs or 242ftlbs depending on model of Honda vehicle) is for. Ideally you would both crimp the axle nut and use a torque wrench to get the appropriate torque rating to not put unnecessary stress on the axle shaft. Depending on Honda’s specific analysis for their pretension, they would have used a yield strength coefficient of .5 or .67 to calculate their pretension recommendation. However, this is assuming their own manufacturer dimensions and supply chain material qualities. Most non oem manufacturers have their axles made from china, with not so good quality, not only dimensionally, but most importantly in material strength. That being said, in my time working as an engineer I’ve seen bolts (trivial example, but analogous) rated for 105ksi but actually withstanding only 50ksi. LESS THAN 50% of stated. If you would like to ensure part longevity, using the torque wrench would at least rule out that it was not over tightening that caused an issue.
I just installed a new rear or Bank One Cat on my 2009 Odyssey. The car was sitting for weeks while I tried to source a cheap or aftermarket Converter for it with no success. This part is on a National Backorder. Found one at Honda in Denver, I forked out over $1500 for this part. Ebay Converter would not fit and I don't recommend them. Anyway, I just did not remember how this damn Heat Sheild installs over the axle until I saw your Vid. Thanks for posting.
how did the bolt behind the axle NOT hit your CV shaft? the top and bottom is easy the middle bolt binds up against the axle.. what did you do? please explain...
Hi, are you talking about the support bearing bracket? If so, going off memory for any challenging area like that it may require removing other two first and then backing out the one hitting driveshaft last. I kind of remember when reinstalling I made sure bolt was in one of the lower holes in the bracket before wrestling into place first.
Mechanical Eng here, great video love the angles and troubleshooting tips you mentioned.
One large but hopefully informative comment:
Crimping the axle nut is just a fail safe in the event of the nut ever coming loose. It itself wont keep the original engagement of the wheel assembly/axle shaft to the transmission. That is what the specified pretension (212ftlbs or 242ftlbs depending on model of Honda vehicle) is for.
Ideally you would both crimp the axle nut and use a torque wrench to get the appropriate torque rating to not put unnecessary stress on the axle shaft.
Depending on Honda’s specific analysis for their pretension, they would have used a yield strength coefficient of .5 or .67 to calculate their pretension recommendation. However, this is assuming their own manufacturer dimensions and supply chain material qualities. Most non oem manufacturers have their axles made from china, with not so good quality, not only dimensionally, but most importantly in material strength. That being said, in my time working as an engineer I’ve seen bolts (trivial example, but analogous) rated for 105ksi but actually withstanding only 50ksi. LESS THAN 50% of stated.
If you would like to ensure part longevity, using the torque wrench would at least rule out that it was not over tightening that caused an issue.
That’s great information!
I just installed a new rear or Bank One Cat on my 2009 Odyssey. The car was sitting for weeks while I tried to source a cheap or aftermarket Converter for it with no success. This part is on a National Backorder. Found one at Honda in Denver, I forked out over $1500 for this part. Ebay Converter would not fit and I don't recommend them. Anyway, I just did not remember how this damn Heat Sheild installs over the axle until I saw your Vid. Thanks for posting.
Was there a lot of transmission fluid loss when removing shaft?
I recall very little fluid loss, if possible have shaft removal side sit slightly higher than non removal side to keep fluid from spilling out.
lol 😂. No. Rock Auto Just like Napa or any of these American auto shops have very few parts that will work on Honda’s.
how did the bolt behind the axle NOT hit your CV shaft? the top and bottom is easy the middle bolt binds up against the axle.. what did you do? please explain...
Hi, are you talking about the support bearing bracket? If so, going off memory for any challenging area like that it may require removing other two first and then backing out the one hitting driveshaft last. I kind of remember when reinstalling I made sure bolt was in one of the lower holes in the bracket before wrestling into place first.